From the Sector

The dates are set: IFFT/Interior Lifestyle Living is welcoming exhibitor registration for its 2021 edition, to be held from 18 – 20 October 2021 in the South Halls of Tokyo Big Sight. The dedicated fair for interior design is once again set to attract not only retail buyers but also visitors from design and architecture offices, commercial facilities, and other contract businesses. The 2019 edition welcomed 352 exhibitors from 14 countries and regions as well as 16,016 visitors from 34 countries and regions, receiving much positive feedback for its increased focus on contract business.
 
IFFT/Interior Lifestyle Living 2019
Returning after a hiatus in 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic, IFFT/Interior Lifestyle Living will once again create opportunities for exhibitors to meet new clients and expand their businesses. Messe Frankfurt Japan Ltd is working to put all of the appropriate safety and hygiene measures in place to protect participants during the fair period, and prevent the spread of COVID-19.
 
New ETHICAL zone added to satisfy consumer demand
A newly introduced ETHICAL zone will help industry players explore the themes of sustainability and ecology, which are continuing to gain traction in the interior design market. The zone focuses on environmental protection, up-cycling, fair trade, products that support people with disabilities, organic products, local production for local consumption, and more. Furniture production from recycled forest materials will also be a focus of the zone, which will be promoted in the run up to the fair through sector-specific media channels. This will include dedicated promotional activities targeting ethically driven retailers and restaurants.
 
A variety of booth sizes to accommodate exhibitors’ needs
In response to requests from exhibitors who showcase smaller items, a new booth size has been added for 2021. Measuring 6.3 sqm (width 3m x depth 2.1m), the new booth option is one size smaller than the existing 9 sqm booth, adding more choice for exhibitors
 
Dedicated lifestyle themed zones
Proving popular amongst trade buyers during previous editions, ‘CREATIVE RESOURCE’ is a zone devoted to innovative interior materials, as well as parts and services for interior design and home remodelling. Products featured at the zone include wallpaper, floor coverings, paints and related materials. First introduced in 2012, the zone has grown in stature as the destination for the likes of manufacturers, architects, designers and developers to find inspiration.
 
The fair’s zoning encompasses a variety of different product categories and themes. This not only simplifies the sourcing process for trade buyers, but it also maximises business exposure for exhibitors. Day-to-day lifestyle products – both stylish and functional – will be displayed in the ‘HOME’, ‘ACCENT’ and ‘EVERYDAY’ zones with a focus on living spaces, accessories and household items respectively.
 
Moreover, catering to the world of convenience and home cuisine, an array of pragmatically-designed packaged food will be presented at 'FOODIST', while innovative dining items will be gathered at the ‘KITCHEN LIFE’ zone.
 
Highlighting high quality local craftsmanship, designs from Japanese artisanal artists with a modern touch will be located in the ‘JAPAN STYLE’ zone. The latest designs from highly acclaimed international brands will be displayed too, in the ‘MOVEMENT’ area, while work from up-and-coming young designers will appear at the ‘TALENTS’ and ‘NEXT’ zones.
 
About IFFT/Interior Lifestyle Living
IFFT/Interior Lifestyle Living is held annually in fall and is the sister fair of Interior Lifestyle Tokyo held in spring, which is based on Ambiente, Messe Frankfurt’s largest and most important international consumer goods fair, and Heimtextil, the biggest international home and contract textiles fair. With the synergetic effects of these leading global trade fairs in the high-end interior market, and with Messe Frankfurt’s global network, IFFT/Interior Lifestyle Living is a key platform for professionals, buyers, architects and those engaged in domestic and international contract business.

• Swiss weaving machinery manufacturers are in the forefront of novel application development

Shoes and electronic calculators are probably not the first products people would associate with the textile weaving process. But they certainly signpost the future for woven fabrics, as two examples of the ever-wider possibilities of latest technology in the field. Fashion and function already combine in the increasing popularity of woven fabrics for shoes, and this is a present and future trend. Calculators in fabrics? That’s another story of ingenious development, using so-called ‘meander fields’ on the back and keys printed on the front of the material.

These glimpses of the outlook for modern weavers are among the highlights of developments now being pioneered by Swiss textile machinery companies. All weaving markets require innovation, as well as speed, efficiency, quality and sustainability. Member firms of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association respond to these needs at every point in the process – from tightening the first thread in the warp to winding the last inch for fabric delivery. They also share a common advantage, with a leading position in the traditional weaving industry as well as the expertise to foster new and exciting applications.

Technology and research cooperation
The concept of a ‘textile calculator’ was developed by Jakob Müller Group, in cooperation with the textile research institute Thuringen-Vogtland. Müller’s patented MDW® multi-directional weaving technology is able to create the meander fields which allow calculator functions to be accessed at a touch. A novel and useful facility, which suggests limitless expansion.

Today, the latest woven shoes are appreciated for their precise and comfortable fit. They score through their durability, strength and stability, meeting the requirements of individual athletes across many sports, as well as leisurewear. Stäubli is well known as a leading global specialist in weaving preparation, shedding systems and high-speed textile machinery. Its jacquard machines offer great flexibility across a wide range of formats, weaving all types of technical textiles, lightweight reinforcement fabrics – and shoes.

It’s possible to weave new materials such as ceramics, mix fibers such as aramid, carbon and other, and produce innovative multi-layers with variable thicknesses. Such applications put special demands on weaving machines which are fulfilled by Stäubli high-performance TF weaving systems.

Great weaving results are impossible without perfect warp tension, now available thanks to the world-leading electronic warp feeding systems of Crealet. Some market segments in weaving industry today demand warp let-off systems which meet individual customer requirements. For example, the company has recognized expertise to understand that geotextile products often need special treatment, as provided by its intelligent warp tension control system. Individual and connective solutions are designed to allow external support via remote link. Crealet’s warp let-off systems are widely used in both ribbon and broadloom weaving, for technical textiles applied on single or multiple warp beams and creels.

Functional, sustainable, automated
Trends in the field of woven narrow fabrics are clearly focused on functionality and sustainability. The Jakob Müller Group has already embraced these principles – for example using natural fibers for 100% recyclable labels with a soft-feel selvedge. It also focuses as much as possible on the processing of recycled, synthetic materials. Both PET bottles and polyester waste from production are recycled and processed into elastic and rigid tapes for the apparel industry.

For efficient fabric production environments, it is now recognized that automated quality solutions are essential. Quality standards are increasing everywhere and zero-defect levels are mandatory for sensitive applications such as airbags and protective apparel.

Uster’s latest generation of on-loom monitoring and inspection systems offers real operational improvements for weavers. The fabric quality monitoring prevents waste, while the quality assurance system significantly improves first-quality yield for all applications. Protecting fabric makers from costly claims and damaged reputations, automated fabric inspection also removes the need for slow, costly and unreliable manual inspection, freeing operators to focus on higher-skilled jobs.

Smart and collaborative robotics (cobots) offer many automation possibilities in weaving rooms. Stäubli’s future oriented robotics division is a driver in this segment with first effective installations in warp and creel preparation.

Control and productivity
Willy Grob’s specialized solutions for woven fabric winding focus on reliable control of tension, keeping it constant from the start of the process right through to the full cloth roll. Continuous digital control is especially important for sensitive fabrics, while performance and productivity are also critical advantages. In this regard, the company’s large-scale batching units can provide ten times the winding capacity of a regular winder integrated in the weaving machine.

The customized concept by Grob as well as design and implementation result in great flexibility and functionality of the fabric winding equipment – yet another example of Swiss ingenuity in textile machinery.  
There is even more innovation to come in weaving – and in other segments – from members of the Swiss Textile Machinery Association in future! This confident assertion is founded on an impressive statistic: the 4077 years of experience behind the creative power of the association’s member firms. It’s proof positive that their developments grow out of profound knowledge and continuous research.

Sateri, one of the world's largest producers of viscose fibre, is planning to expand its Lyocell production in China, with total planned annual capacity of up to 500,000 tonnes by 2025.

The first phase of this expansion kicked off recently with ground breaking works for a new 100,000 tonne facility in Changzhou, Jiangsu province. Another 100,000 tonne facility will be built in Nantong, Jiangsu province later this year. The Changzhou Lyocell facility is expected to commence production in the third quarter of 2022 and will create more than 800 jobs.

Sateri’s first foray into China’s Lyocell market was in May 2020 when its 20,000 tonne Lyocell production line in Rizhao, Shandong province commenced production. The same site houses a 5,000 tonne Lyocell pilot production line dedicated for the development of Lyocell application technology.

Allen Zhang, President of Sateri, said, “Sateri’s continued investment in Lyocell not only responds to the changing needs of the market and the textile industry but also supports China’s green development plans. It is also very much a part of Sateri’s 2030 Vision commitment to sustainable development where we actively seek to adopt a circular economy model through clean and closed-loop production technology and innovation.”

A natural and biodegradable fibre, Sateri’s Lyocell is made from wood pulp sourced from certified and sustainable plantations. It is manufactured using closed-loop technology, requiring minimal chemical input during the production process, and utilising an organic solvent that can be almost fully recovered and recycled.

In anticipation of strong demand for Lyocell in the coming years, Tom Liu, Sateri’s Vice President and General Manager of Lyocell and Nonwovens Business, said: "Customer-centricity is Sateri’s promise. The new expansion plans will enable us to extend our domestic and international market reach and provide our customers with high quality and comprehensive fibre products. At the same time, we will invest in technology improvement, application development, and brand collaboration to bolster the industry”.

• Mostafiz Uddin, Managing Director of Denim Expert Limited and Founder of Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) has won Sustainable Fashion Champion at the Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards 2021, which took place virtually on 10 March.

On receiving the award, Mostafiz said he wants to be a game-changer in the apparel industry, leading by example to inspire others to behave responsibly and ethically.

He also dedicated the award to H&M which, he explained, supported his business, Denim Expert, through the pandemic by continuing to place orders He said the loyal support of the Swedish fashion giant almost certainly helped save the livelihoods of 2000 workers at his factory and their 10000 family members. “That’s true sustainability leadership,” he said.

The Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards recognise steps being made in reducing the fashion industry’s environmental impact and creating fairer working conditions across the supply chain.
Judged by an independent panel of sustainability and fashion retail experts, the awards shine a spotlight on best practice within the global fashion industry.

Covid-19 has presented unforeseen challenges for fashion retailers and brands, but it has also given us all an opportunity to build back better. Forward-thinking fashion businesses know change is not optional, and are embracing their responsibilities and ability to make a difference.

Mostafiz Uddin has been recognised as the Sustainable Fashion Champion 2021 for setting examples in promoting sustainability during the Covid-19 pandemic which broke out worldwide in March last year.
Jill Geoghegan, Acting Editor of Drapers, said: “Despite the challenges thrown up by the Coronavirus pandemic, fashion brands and retailers increasingly recognise that sustainability is a business imperative.”  
“Many businesses continued to invest in cleaning up their supply chains and introducing new models of working, despite the unprecedented trading conditions.

“The Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards highlight and celebrate these advancements, paving the way for a more responsible future for the industry.” Managing Director of Denim Expert Limited Mostafiz Uddin said: “In the pandemic, my factory Denim Expert Limited kept true to its commitment towards sustainability, despite an extremely difficult trading landscape.

“During the pandemic, I was vocal about the issue of buyer-supplier relationships and, in speaking out, I wanted to champion the cause of suppliers all over the world. Too often suppliers in garment supply chains do not have a voice because they fear that by speaking out, they will be treated unfavourably by brands.

“This was, of course, a risk on my own part but I like to think I stood up for what I think is right and ultimately, I believe progressive brands understood I was coming from a good place. Like them, all I want to see is a fair, ethical and sustainable industry where brands and retailers work in an environment of collaboration, not conflict.”

Mostafiz also had some special praise for H&M. He said: “It would have not been possible for me to support my workers during the pandemic, had my factory not received help from H&M during the unprecedented time. While Denim Expert suffered from huge orders cancellation and orders hold, H&M supported us by placing orders in the pandemic that saved thousands of lives and livelihoods. Therefore, I would like to dedicate this Award to H&M and its CEO Helena Helmersson.”

The judges of Drapers Sustainable Fashion Champion Award 2021 have been Kerry Bannigan, Founder, Conscious Fashion Campaign; Sarah Ditty, Global Policy Director, Fashion Revolution; Miriam Lahage, Founder, Aequip; Samata Pattinson, CEO, Red Carpet Green Dress; Caroline Rush, Chief Executive Officer, British Fashion Council; Lucy Shea, Group CEO, Futerra; Jane Shepherdson, Chairman, My Wardrobe HQ; and Dilys Williams, Director, Centre for Sustainable Fashion.

Paper Converting Machine Company (PCMC), part of Barry-Wehmiller, has announced the launch of its ION digital conversion system.

This new flexible inkjet printing solution provides superior print quality for many platforms, including labels, folding cartons, flexible packaging and other specialty printing markets. With industry-leading 1600 by 1585 dpi native resolution, the system can print in various modes at speeds up to 668 feet per minute.

The ION digital conversion system is powered by Memjet’s DuraLink® technology. DuraLink combines long-life printheads, pigment ink and flexible modules that can be configured from 8.5-inch print widths up to 60 inches. DuraLink’s aqueous pigmented ink-set offers a durable, water and light-fast solution for a variety of digital print needs. With these features, PCMC can quickly and easily develop solutions for high-volume commercial, packaging and industrial printing markets.

The ION is a fully modular system and is available as a mono-color print-bar and full-color printing platform with expanded gamut printing.

“We are excited to add ION digital to our product portfolio,” said Rodney Pennings, PCMC’s Printing, Coating and Laminating Sales Director. “The combination of PCMC’s vast experience in flexographic printing with Memjet’s breakthrough inkjet technology results in a powerful solution for our customers in a variety of print and packaging markets.”

Tonello and RUDOLF HUB1922 join forces and unveil laser effects. The results: A much simplified, flexible and efficient process - based on latest technological advancements and highly conscious chemistry - that is finally able to replace questionable practices such as potassium permanganate spray.

THE Laser, the absolute Laser
The range that is the new benchmark for the entire sector. New software and a totally reinvented process that return higher precision, speed, flexibility and repeatability. Four models for a specific crafting and avant-garde functions like 360° marking technology, BOP for automatic drawing positioning and the new software CREA make THE Laser suitable and unique for advanced applications.

Laser Smoother (RUCO-SPECIAL LSM)
All-in-one formulation - very easy to pre-apply to garments before laser burning - that translates into a very natural image that is similar to what is created by hand. RUCO SPECIAL LSM amplifies the laser action, completely removes the grey/brow patina produced by the burning of cotton and last but not least, creates a micro-unevenness that simulates manual scraping and celebrates the fabric construction.

The combination of THE Laser and RUCO-SPECIAL LSM (ideally applied through CORE system) is a process that nothing adds to the usual way of working. It is a radical paradigm shift that takes the product directly to a dimension of real, highly sustainable craftsmanship:

• Remarkable enhancement of the fabric’s characteristics;
• Overall effect much more natural and similar to manual scraping;
• A better and more efficient way of working.

• Inspiring Interiors

Textiles are an inseparable part of the interior as they give a room atmosphere and good acoustics. But which fabric is best suited for which purpose? This month's drapilux  recommendation is drapilux835 and is aimed at classic and modern hotels as well as offices, healthcare facilities and hospitals.

• Nature-inspired lightness: drapilux 835

The translucency of drapilux 835 conveys openness, lightness and a sense of character. This  was  how  Holger  Schön,  Commercial  Property  Manager  at drapilux, described the series. That is the reason why this fabric, with its versatile floral patterns, adorns the four walls of the commercial property manager’s own home: “We live in the suburbs in a rural setting. Consequently, we chose a design with poppies, as this pattern harmonises well in the natural surroundings in which we live.” The fabric also plays a part in the hygiene chain thanks to the intelligent added function of drapilux bioaktiv. Silver ions on the surface of the fibres kill over 99 percent of any bacteria located on textiles.

The RUDOLF GROUP is an uncontested agent of positive change especially when it comes to pioneering technologies that help transforming the textile and fashion industries. A shining example of conscious leadership played by the RUDOLF GROUP over the past decades is the invention and introduction of fluorine-free Durable Water Repellency (DWR) for textile and apparel. Since 2003, the RUCO-DRY product line has gradually convinced the industry that water-resistance can be achieved through the study and replica of natural models. “Biomimicry and the study of lotus leaves and bird’s feathers were instrumental in developing the very first fluorine-free DWR’s” says Dr. Gunther Duschek, Managing Director at RUDOLF GROUP.

Fifteen years later, RUDOLF GROUP does it again and takes a significant leapfrog. It pushes the boundaries of R&D well beyond fluorine-free, embraces nature and introduces water repellent performance entirely based on natural components. “We are launching two brand new, distinctive product propositions entirely manufactured from natural sources that do not compete with human and/or animal nutrition” continues Dr. Duschek.

RUCO®-DRY BIO CGR is an absolute breakthrough and the first Durable Water Repellent (DWR) agent based on plant-derived processing wastes. In fact, RUCO®-DRY BIO CGR is made of natural waste that accumulates as by-product during the processing of cereal grains in the food industry. The leftover material that would otherwise be disposed of is refined to create a powerful water and stain repellent textile finish.

“By turning natural waste into DWR we have optimized the biologic character of RUCO®-DRY BIO CGR where the active component is made of more than 90% bio carbon” states Dr. Dirk Sielemann, R&D Director at RUDOLF GROUP. He continues: “Although most of the product is composed by recycled biomass, RUCO®-DRY BIO CGR meets the performance and durability of conventional water repellent textile finishes”.

RUCO®-DRY BIO NPE is an equally outstanding product innovation where DWR is entirely based on a carefully selected mix of natural plant extracts. The well-balanced mix of plant-based ingredients combines excellent water and stain repellent effects with breathability and a natural handfeel. 

Unlike other 100% renewable raw materials, those used in the making of RUCO®-DRY BIO NPE are chemically and genetically non-modified and are not used as food, feed or fuel. Furthermore, all of the plant extracts that compose RUCO®-DRY BIO NPE are subject to a strict conservation and sustainability framework. “That’s why the supply of RUCO®-DRY BIO NPE is likely to remain limited to the creation and marketing of performance outdoor and sports apparel programs embedding state-of-the-art sustainable technology” concludes Dr. Duschek.

Both RUCO®-DRY BIO CGR and RUCO®-DRY BIO NPE are marketed through the BIO-LOGIC trademark, registered by RUDOLF GROUP.

BÖNNIGHEIM - Textile testing and research partner Hohenstein has reason to celebrate: this year marks the company’s 75th anniversary. Now in its third generation of family ownership, the company will spend this landmark year expanding its foundation for the future. Owner Prof. Dr. Stefan Mecheels is proud: "Our motto, We live textiles, expresses exactly what has made us special for many decades - our collective enthusiasm for textiles and the opportunity to provide solutions that make a difference in the world.”

Successful Roots

Prof. Dr.-Ing. Otto Mecheels laid the foundation for an internationally-renowned company in 1946 when he founded the Hohenstein Institutes, a textile school in Hohenstein Castle. His son, Prof. Dr. rer. nat. Jürgen Mecheels modernized the Hohenstein Group’s business structures and expanded into new research and service areas such as textile finishing or professional laundries/dry cleaning. He helped to forever change textile safety with the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certification system that protects consumers from harmful substances. Under Prof. Dr. Stefan Mecheels’ leadership since 1995, Hohenstein has been at the forefront of microfiber analysis, consistently perfected its created standards for comfort and compression testing and worked to reduce the industry’s ecological impact. Last but not least, the testing laboratory in Hong Kong, which has been in operation since 2011, and the Hohenstein textile testing laboratories in Bangladesh and India, which were opened in 2018, ensure even greater market proximity.

Solutions for the Global Textile Industry

Today, Hohenstein specializes in the testing, certification and research of all kinds of textile-related products. With a total of more than 1,000 employees at its headquarters in Bönnigheim and in more than 40 branches, contact offices and laboratories worldwide, the company faces the current challenges of the global industry.

"Textile sustainability remains a major focus for us and is woven through every decision we make," explains Stefan Mecheels. “Even services that are seemingly focused on innovation contribute somehow to longer lasting products, less waste and more safety. Our Digital Fitting Lab helps brands leap forward with digitized apparel development. Using modern 3D and 4D technologies and our traditional fit and pattern expertise, we help our clients design better fitting clothes with fewer prototypes and less waste.”

When SARS-CoV-2 struck, the company developed a quality label to easily identify non-medical, community masks that meet legal and functional requirements. The Hohenstein Quality Labels are independent proof with a high level of credibility among buyers and consumers.

Anniversary

Among the celebrations, Hohenstein plans to hold a mid-year press conference with regional and industry journalists. "We are celebrating this anniversary because we have succeeded in constantly adapting to the market and use our applied research to anticipate developments. For this I would first like to thank our employees, who, in keeping with the motto We live textiles, put their hearts and souls into their work. A very special thanks also goes to our customers, some of whom have been placing their trust in us for decades," says Stefan Mecheels, adding "I am convinced that we are positioned to continue our contribution in the future.

• Innovative system uniquely combines blanket and guide roller cleaning to enhance productivity

Baldwin Technology Company Inc. has added TowerClean™ G2 for coldset offset presses to its range of best-in-class cleaning systems and consumables. Complementing the Impact Fusion™ and PREPAC®  product lines, the TowerClean G2 is a combined blanket and guide roller cleaning system that enables consistent print quality, more flexibility and increased productivity through fast and efficient cleaning cycles, which optimize uptime and reduce start-up waste.

For efficient blanket cleaning, TowerClean G2 distributes spray evenly across the web, and its optional brushes aid in lint removal. Utilizing Baldwin’s precision spray technology, this innovative system also has a dual-side option for those printers running coated stock paper. In addition, TowerClean G2 offers various operation modes, including combined blanket and guide roller cleaning, blanket cleaning only and guide roller cleaning only. “TowerClean G2 brings Baldwin surface cleaning technology to the small-format press market,” said Michael Stürmer, Baldwin’s Vice President, Product Line Cleaning. “While highly valued for their format flexibility, these presses often do not have the space needed for conventional blanket cleaning. With its modular and expandable design, the TowerClean G2 provides several configuration options to meet production requirements.” To support this new system, Baldwin offers its unique and Fogra-approved cleaning solvent TowerWash 2, which was specifically created for TowerClean G2.

“The TowerClean G2 was developed because of requests from customers, and we have, in fact, already sold two systems to web offset printers in Europe and the US,” continued Stürmer. “This new system further reinforces Baldwin’s strong commitment to creating innovative cleaning technologies for web offset customers.”