From the Sector

• Anita Tillmann, managing partner, about Premium Group´s January 2021 Events

“These are challenging times – for all of us. On one hand, because we can't meet up in the same carefree way as usual. And, on the other hand, because decisions have to be made based on factors that are out of everyone’s control. Alongside all this, it’s essential that we look to the future with positivity, that we use the time effectively and continue to advance in the face of adversity. This not only affects the trade show and event organisers, but the whole industry.

We have carried out market research and surveyed exhibitors, partners and buyers on the current circumstances. The objective was to obtain a data-based assessment of the current economic situation, a summary of the success of the exclusively digital events, and insights into the requirements of our network with regard to the physical trade shows. Following analysis of the data gathered we have established that there is a personal wish for an event to happen – inclusive of the appropriate hygiene measures – however, this is unfortunately not currently possible from a professional perspective. As long as there are delays to production and constantly changing travel and contact restrictions in place, we cannot put on any trade shows, conferences or events that would meet our demands or the demands of our exhibitors.

We have therefore decided not to hold PREMIUM, SEEK or FASHIONTECH next January. This was an incredibly difficult decision to make. Especially because we didn't want to say goodbye to Berlin without a fitting farewell.

Now, though, it’s about looking forward and concentrating on what is certain: Frankfurt Fashion Week, which we will be staging in July 2021 together with Messe Frankfurt, the City of Frankfurt and the region of Hessen. We have big plans and are working on a new, fresh start – not only for us, but also for all stakeholders in the fashion industry, nationally and internationally.

Another press conference is planned for the end of November, when we shall be introducing new concepts, partners and event formats. Preparations are already in full swing: we are having numerous discussions, sitting in workshops, activating partners, designers, publishers, politics and society so as to get a unique, fully formed event successfully up and running. Expectations are huge – and we intend to satisfy them. We are putting all our energy into this future-focussed project.

With the aim of being able to share our enthusiasm, we are planning a FFW Preview to present the new locations in Frankfurt am Main and the concepts to journalists, brands and retailers at the beginning of next year.

Until then, all we can say is this: stay curious. Stay optimistic. Because even though there won't be any events this coming January, the show does go on. True to form, that means there will be more business opportunities than ever before, along with innovative formats, events and conferences and a fully formed city concept that has never been imagined before.”

The textile machinery industry is eagerly awaiting the start of the virtual trade show "Innovate Textile & Apparel". What and how will the more than 160 exhibitors present themselves virtually? How will the approximately 10,000 registered visitors accept the digital offer? WTIN is breaking new ground as organizer with this platform. But one thing is already certain: From 15 to 30 October 2020, they will bring the textile machinery industry a little closer together again in the Corona Pandemic. Oerlikon invites all visitors to take a look into the future of manmade fibers production and get to know the comprehensive range of products and services.

"Reconnecting innovation in the textile & apparel value chain" is the motto of WTIN's virtual trade show. And Oerlikon intends to more than live up to this motto. With more than 50 active experts from sales, customer service and technology as well as partners from its international network of representatives, the Manmade Fibers segment of the Swiss Oerlikon Group will try to be represented around the clock. "It is an interesting experiment for all of us and we would like to see it succeed," explains André Wissenberg, Head of Marketing, Corporate Communications and Public Affairs. "Our aim is to meet our existing customers again, make new contacts and see 'old friends' from the industry. We have prepared an attractive digital offer for them all. Those of you who missed our roller coaster ride in Barcelona last year can now enjoy the journey through time in peace and quiet from your home office on your digital tour of the fair. And, there are no more waiting times either," promises Wissenberg.

Factory know-how from a single source
From Melt to Yarn, Fibers and Nonwovens. From the polycondensation and the processing of PTA and MEG as well as the extrusion of, for example, recycled polyester chips all the way through to hundreds of thousands of packaged and stored or directly-delivered textured bobbins for a market within the textile industry worth billions. From the planning and construction of highly complex production plants to the engineering of large-scale plant projects and competent customer services. This business model runs like a red thread through the self-conception of the Manmade Fibers segment of the Swiss Oerlikon Group. The right partner, especially – but not exclusively – for newcomers to the textile industry. "With us they get everything they need for a successful business: Factory know-how from a single source. And that's what we would like to show our visitors at our virtual trade fair booth," says Wissenberg.

The Secoli Fashion Show, live this year on the Camera Moda digital platform, staged the projects of 19 students supported by exceptional companies such as Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, which supplied its precious and contemporary materials for the creation of some pieces of the collections.

During Milan Fashion Week the students of Istituto Secoli presented their projects for the traditional appointment of the Secoli Fashion Show, an event that this year has took place in digital version in a particular dedicated section - Italian Education Lab - live on the streaming platform of Camera Nazionale della Moda.

The students designed three women collections and two men collections interpreting the concept of SHAPE.

Brands of excellence supported the young creatives for the creation of the collections, such as Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, which provided the printed fabrics - produced by Tessitura Grisotto - for the creation of some pieces of the collections, that were used in particular for shirts and padded outerwear and quilted parts.
 
Bemberg™ is a fiber that comes from the smart and technologically advanced transformation of pre-consumer cotton linter materials and converted through a traceable and transparent process. Its uniqueness comes from its exceptional qualitative characteristics such as the magnificent touch - which is soft and smooth as silk, like a second skin - brilliance and radiance. Bemberg™ also has antistatic and breathable performances and the fiber is biodegradable and compostable too.

The collaboration with these companies is continuous and in the name of the close and interconnected relationship between education and the world of work. A support that is also reconfirmed for Asahi Kasei, who for years has supported the Istituto Secoli with an intense commitment in the field of education to new generations.

In addition to Istituto Secoli, Bemberg™ invests in future generations of professionals in the textile and clothing sector also through BIELLA MASTER DELLE FIBRE NOBILI and Sanchi no Gakko (in Japanese “School of Textile & Yarn Production Site”) founded three years ago and supported for two years by Asahi Kasei through its “Bemberg Lab”.

• Successful concept to be continued in 2022

For three years now, the Trevira CS joint fair booth, where Trevira, its customers and partners present their new ideas within the framework of an innovative creative concept, has been an established and popular feature of Heimtextil. In 2021, the international trade fair for home and contract textiles is planned to take place from 12-15 January in Frankfurt/Main. However, as a result of the numerous uncertainties brought about by the coronavirus crisis, Trevira has decided that it will not take part next year.

“Messe Frankfurt has shown us its comprehensive hygiene concept and plans and there is no question that their plans fully meet health and safety requirements,” explained Trevira CEO Klaus Holz. “But at Trevira, we are also very much aware of our responsibilities. Our joint booth concept is not only on an extensive scale, but it is also built around the idea of communication. This makes it even more important that we consider the potential risks involved and how they could impact our customers, co-exhibitors, visitors and staff.” Given the uncertainty as to how the situation might develop in the future, Trevira has decided it has no option but to withdraw from next year’s fair and postpone its participation in Heimtextil until 2022. This decision has been made in agreement with parent company Indorama Ventures PCL (Thailand), which has put stringent measures in place to keep its staff and customers safe. As a result, the concern and its subsidiaries are not currently participating in any trade fairs.

At the 2020 Heimtextil, Trevira exhibited together with around 30 of its major Trevira CS customers with a joint booth whose total floor area measured over 2,000 msq. The number of partners exhibiting alongside Trevira has increased steadily over the past three years, and the Trevira display, along with many of the newest flame retardant Trevira CS collections from its customers, has always been hugely popular at the fair, especially in Hall 4.2, where it has continually attracted a very high number of visitors. As a joint booth, it has benefited especially from the vibrant and positive discussions among visitors and exhibitors, together with the various events that accompany the display. Usually, these included a press conference and a party held at the new stand. Trevira’s Heimtextil presence in the past three years has strengthened and expanded the position of Trevira CS as the leading brand for flame retardant home textiles.

CEO Klaus Holz said, “As a regular exhibitor at Heimtextil for many years, we found this decision extremely difficult. We greatly regret that we will not be able to bring our joint booth to Heimtextil next year. However, we plan to return in 2022 with a fair booth offering visitors and partners the high quality they have come to expect of us, with brand new ideas and measures in place to ensure its success”.

• The “Newcomer Award” will still be presented at the 8th Convention & Fair for Hightech Textiles
• Chemnitz organisers considering forward-looking forums using the “mtex+” brand

The 8th mtex+ Convention & Fair for Hightech Textiles, which was scheduled to be held on 9-10 June 2020, will not take place because of the corona crisis. “We’ve made this decision following in-depth consultations with the members of the advisory board who are working in the textile sector; they were also opposed to moving the date to the autumn because of the unforeseeable consequences arising from the crisis,” says  André Rehn, Head of Sales for Trade Fairs & Congresses at the organiser, C³ GmbH, Chemnitz.

“Cancelling the event is a particularly severe blow for us, as the “mtex+” was supposed to be held with a modernised concept and a very attractive programme at our new Carlowitz Congresscenter at the heart of Chemnitz for the first time. The considerable economic loss associated with this is naturally painful for us too. However, we will be presenting our “mtex+” “Newcomer Award” to the prize-winners at the next possible, suitable opportunity. 15 students and graduates from all over Germany have taken part in the young people’s competition with creative ideas for recycling, upcycling and downcycling textiles. We’re also now considering special events, which could operate using our well-known “mtex+” brand in future. Sustainability in the textile value-added chain as well as health and protective textiles made by the domestic market are obvious, forward-looking topics in this field.”

ISKO presented its 100% responsible platform, R-TWO™.

The denim ingredient brand hosted a special panel to discuss some of the advancements in technology that are making the fashion industry more responsible: from R-TWO™ to automated laser technology.

With the fashion industry being considered one of the world’s most polluting businesses-sectors, collaborating and knowledge sharing are key in finding solutions for a better future. Fully aware of this scenario, ISKO was the headline sponsor at The Drapers Sustainable Fashion Forum brings together responsible players to discuss what can be done to tackle the industry’s environmental and social issues through innovation and creativity.

Sharing knowledge, collaborating for change.
As evidence of its Responsible Innovation™ approach, ISKO presented the R-TWO™ program, its latest
responsible achievement. Stemming from the mill’s holistic vision, R-TWO™ represents a great example of how reducing, reusing, and recycling strategies can be implemented in a textile business to improve its  environmental performance.
The R-TWO™ reduces the amount of raw material sourced by using a blend of reused cotton and recycled polyester – both certified –, improving sourcing efficiency throughout the entire field-to-fabric production.
Reused cotton is certified with the Content Claim Standard – or CCS – from the Textile Exchange. As for recycled polyester, it can be either Recycled Claim Standard (RCS) or Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified, depending on the content percentages. Together with this cutting-edge and fully responsible program, ISKO also uses automated laser
technology developed in partnership with Jeanologia.

“How technology can help make the fashion industry more sustainable”:
On March 11th, ISKO hosted a discussion about ways, to make the fashion industry more responsible
The panel was moderated by David Shah, consultant on design and marketing development, Publisher and CEO at Metropolitan Publishing BV and Associate Professor at ARTez (Arnhem, the Netherlands) and Associate Professor at Renmin University, (Beijing, China). The talk involved Keith O’Brien, ISKO Marketing & Business Development Manager, Victoria Soto, Jeanologia Custom Technology Consultant and Filippo Ricci, Fashion Open Studio Program & Partnership Manager.

The conference on sustainability in production, trade and consumption will take a second round: On March 24, 2020, the Weser-Kurier’s conference SUSTAIN will take place in the run-up to the International Cotton Conference once more. The Bremen Cotton Exchange is again cooperating partner of this event. The theme “City and Change – the Future of the Textile Retail Trade” is on focus this year.

Shirt and trpousers or blouse and skirt – clothing is an instrument of expression, a social must and a major factor of consumption. Internet and debates on climate change have changed the indicators. On the one hand, textile online trade is booming, while local stores have come under pressure to an increasing degree and cities are on the search for new ideas. On the other hand, consumers increasingly ask for products considering aspects of fairness and ecology during production. Manufacturers and stores have to react. These subjects are on focus during the Sustain that takes place on Tuesday, March 24, 2020 in Bremen in the Glocke.

Exciting keynote speakers and panel guest from fashion, science and the textile industry
Sustain will feature outstanding speakers from the economy, politics and society discussing for instance the possibilities of new techniques in stationary retail trade, the compatibility of fair production with business interests of manufacturers as well as the question whether consumers are willing to pay the additional costs of sustainability. These are themes that influence the vitality of the cities just as the purchase decisions of the consumers.

Prof. Dr Niko Paech, Professor of Economics, Wolfgang Krogmann, Advisory Director Primark, Urs-Stefan Kinting, Managing Partner of the Zero Group, Model & TV Presenter Alena Gerber, Rolf Heimann, CEO Hessnatur Stiftung, Kai Falk, Managing Director Communication of the German retail association Handelsverband Deutschland and many others confirmed their participation.

A true New Eco High-Tech Force of Nature

At ISPO, AKA – Asahi Kasei Advance keept the planet fit and healthy at the same time. The cutting edge department of global material innovator Asahi Kasei, unveils ECOSENSOR™, the cutting-edge fabric collection boosting responsible innovation with a “New Eco High-tech Force of Nature” new generation of performance.

Harnessing AKA expertise in yarning a smarter future, the new range focuses on sportwear, urban and athleisure fabrics. “At ISPO we launch the energetic protein fitting perfectly in textiles for clothes with an active imprint, comfort touch and smooth style. From-yarn-to-dyeing and along the whole supply chain, the collection is 100% traceable.” Says Nishizawa Akira, President & Representative Director Asahi Kasei Advance corporation.

With ECOSENSOR™, Asahi Kasei Advance truly innovates at ISPO as the very first producers choosing the high-performance path with sustainable values.

Indeed, the flexible and multitasking range is the high-tech solution for sportwear, outerwear and beyond. The collection embraces the casual and sporty mood of active urban surfers as well as that easy-to-wear attitude for a relaxing free-time at home.

Oerlikon Neumag promises more flexibility in the color pattern design of carpets with the latest carpet yarn system BCF S8 at DOMOTEX 2020 in Hanover. All trade fair visitors can convince themselves of the possibilities for product differentiation in Hall 11, Stand A36.

Multi-colored carpets are becoming increasingly popular and the desire for significantly more flexible color mixing variants for product differentiation is increasing. Oerlikon Neumag has focused on this and developed the BCF S8, a platform that leaves nothing to be desired when it comes to the color separation of tricolor yarns - from mélange to strongly separated.

Over 200,000 different shades out of three colors
The core component in this process is the new, patent-pending Color Pop Compacting Unit (CPC-T) for an even more flexible and even color separation. Individually controllable air pressures per color in the CPC-T provide a pre-tangling, which results in an accentuation of the colors and thus enables over 200,000 different shades.

Color Pop Compacting also for PA6 yarns
Until now, it was difficult to produce highly color-separated or accentuated BCF yarns from polyamide 6, but in the future, this will be possible thanks to the CPC-T. Thanks to the new design, the CPC-T is now also suitable for processes with low thread tensions.

Oerlikon has invited all visitors to this year's Shanghaitex in China on a journey into the future of manmade fiber production. From 25 to 28 November 2019, the world market leader showed all its guests its vision of a sustainable and automated manmade fiber production at its 100 m² stand in Hall E1, D20: "Clean Technology. Smart Factory." was the motto of the future. And this was only a stone's throw away from reality at the stand. Because today Oerlikon was presenting the four ITMA Barcelona world premieres for efficient machine and plant concepts in a new, innovative industrial design. Together with numerous other innovations, all this forms the new DNA of the Oerlikon Manmade Fibers segment.

Launched to create new standards in texturing: the eAFK Evo generation of machines promises superior speeds, greater productivity and consistently high product quality, along with lower energy consumption and simpler operation vis-à-vis comparable market solutions. Oerlikon Barmag showed these wideranging capabilities at the trade fair with a high-end design from the new system platform. In particular, the numerous value-added features include two that are excelling with cool technology: the optimized EvoHeater and the EvoCooler, a completely newly-developed active cooling unit.