From the Sector

Vandewiele Sweden is spearheading a transformation in B2B operations for the industry, with a new e-commerce platform developed in Sweden. The company, a member of TMAS, the Swedish Textile Machinery Association, has taken on the task of developing the digital solution that will meet the future demands for Vandewiele Group customers worldwide.

The Vandewiele Sweden team has developed a user-friendly interface that exploits the latest "exploding view" diagrams to ensure customers can easily identify and order the components they need, all within a 1:1 digital representation. The next stage in 3D technology is set up and ready, although it awaits implementation and market readiness to fully integrate and utilize its features.

Adopting a phased approach, the company is initially introducing its IRO-branded accessories, spare parts and gauge parts, targeting textile mills, weavers and distributors. The platform has been carefully crafted to cater to the varying needs of its diverse clientele, offering streamlined direct sales and a transparent commission structure for agents and distributors.

With an ambitious logistics promise of 48-hour dispatch and leveraging third-party payment service providers like Nets, the company assures speed and reliability in every transaction.

Scheduled for launch in April, Vandewiele stands ready to introduce its new e-commerce solution to key markets, including Scandinavia, the Baltics, parts of Europe, Turkey, and India.

Die Sportbekleidungsmarke Odlo hat sich für die Enterprise-Commerce-Plattform von SCAYLE entschieden, um das eigene Online-Business zukunftsfähig aufzustellen. Der Start der neuen Online-Präsenz von Odlo ist Anfang 2025 geplant.

Durch die Migration zu SCAYLE erhält der in der Schweiz ansässige Hersteller von Funktionsbekleidung eine E-Commerce-Plattform, die für B2C-Marken und Einzelhändler optimiert ist. Der Funktionsumfang von SCAYLE, inklusive spezieller Omnichannel- und Internationalisierungsfunktionen, ermöglicht es dem Sportunternehmen, sein Digitalgeschäft über Shops, Kanäle und Länder hinweg zu steuern.

Manchester United has announced it has chosen SCAYLE as its official e-commerce platform partner. The club’s new e-commerce experience will launch later this year and continue to be evolved in alignment with the club’s ambition of delivering a best in class direct-to-consumer experience for its global fan base.

SCAYLE provides the technical backbone for more than 140 online stores and was specifically designed for B2C use cases with a focus on the fashion, lifestyle and sports sectors.

Manchester United have appointed SCAYLE to operate a new direct-to-consumer platform that is based on and powered by the SCAYLE commerce engine, dedicated to providing a compelling and customised experience that can quickly adapt to fastchanging requirements.

Hosted in Boston, Massachusetts on 27 September, Global Fashion Summit convened hundreds of esteemed representatives from brands, retailers, NGOs, policy, manufacturers, and innovators to transform ambition into action. The Summit was presented by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), the non-profit organisation that is accelerating the transition to a net positive fashion industry, and marked the first edition of Global Fashion Summit in North America since the forum’s launch in 2009 as a side-event to COP15 in Copenhagen.
 
The Boston edition further explored Global Fashion Agenda’s 2023 editorial theme, ‘Ambition to Action’, while reflecting on and responding to what happened at Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition in June. By bringing Global Fashion Summit to Boston – a renowned hub for technology, innovation, and education - the Summit presented a deeper exploration of the global challenges, differences, and opportunities towards a more sustainable value chain. The Innovation Forum is a key pillar of GFA’s work, making Boston an apt location to showcase pioneering industry solution providers.
 
Attendees heard from over 40 speakers from a range of companies and organisations such as Levi Strauss & Co., Tapestry, Neiman Marcus Group, Thunder Voice Hat, H&M Group, Alice and Olivia, BBC StoryWorks, New Standard Institute, Conservation International, Worldly, Trove, Ceres, Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd, and many more. This Summit also featured esteemed Indigenous speakers on the programme. View all speakers.
 
The Summit’s second international edition facilitated inspiring thought leadership and exchanges around key themes including: Policy, Finance, and Retail, while also complementing the core priorities of the Fashion CEO Agenda: Respectful and Secure Work Environments, Better Wage Systems, Resource Stewardship, Smart Material Choices, and Circular Systems. The programme featured bold panels, case studies, and leadership roundtables reflecting on topics including: ‘Indigenous Leadership Perspectives’, ‘Exploring Fashion’s ESG Concept’, ‘On The Ground: Adaptation or Mitigation?’, ‘The Global Approach to Circularity’, and ‘Innovation for Value Chain Challenges’.

Global Fashion Summit: Boston Edition also presented an Innovation Forum, enabling small and large companies to meet with 14 sustainable solution providers from across the value chain– equipping them with the concrete tools to expedite meaningful actions. GFS Connect facilitated over 90 connections between fashion companies and exhibitors during the Summit.

At the 14th edition more than 4,500 visitors from the retail industry gathered in Mumbai from 1 to 3 June to exchange views on the latest products and solutions specifically for the Indian retail market. Exhibitors on over 7,500 m2 demonstrated where the future of the Indian retail sector is headed. This year's event offered new product segments and profiles, bringing the spotlight to sustainability and focusing on the growth of the overall industry.

The Indian retail market is one of the fastest growing retail markets in the world and a key driver for the Indian economy, something that was also reflected by numerous positive conversations where fruitful synergies were created and long-term relationships were established. Appealing retail design, shopper marketing strategies and visual merchandising were the highlights of the exhibits on the show floor. The trade visitors were also distinguished by a high level of decision-making skills and brand experience expertise.

Thomas Schlitt, Managing Director, Messe Düsseldorf India, points out: “We are very delighted with the brilliant response received from the retail industry for In-store Asia 2023. The event has yet again made its mark by bringing together relevant business opportunities for both exhibitors and visitors. In-store Asia 2023 had something for everyone looking to network and learn from peers and associates in the industry. The event has always been a key meeting point for bellwethers, innovators, distributors, brands and retailers. The 2023 edition has been greatly appreciated for the futuristic ideas and solutions presented both on the expo floor as well as through the dialogues at the convention. I am certain that the connections made here will result in great business prospects for all.”

Elke Moebius, Director Retail & Retail Technology at Messe Düsseldorf, also draws a positive conclusion: “In-store Asia has again confirmed its position as a platform for retail innovations, impressive customer journeys, and shopper-focused strategies that stage physical stores as vibrant, appealing shopping destinations that can captivate and thrill shoppers. Everyone attending here could feel this sense of new departures and investment in the Indian retail sector.”

The 3-day event was accompanied by a Convention under the heading “Humanise, Hybridise, Hyper Localise Retail Experience” where more than 30 speakers delivered talks on such topics as retail research, visual merchandising, shopper marketing and design innovations, to name but a few. Another highlight was the presentation of the coveted VM & RD Retail Design Awards, for which India’s top talents from the Retail Design, Visual Merchandising and Manufacturing sectors competed with each other in 23 distinct categories of store design and window display. At the VM Challenge, six teams of visual merchandisers from renowned brands and companies demonstrated the day before how they conceptualise and realise a shop window within one hour under a given theme and design brief.

Der Outdoor-Markt befindet sich schon seit über zehn Jahren auf solidem Wachstumskurs und ist in den Corona-Jahren sogar noch stärker gewachsen. Doch während die Corona-bedingten Auswirkungen abnehmen, belasten der Ukraine-Krieg und damit neue Krisen die Zukunftsperspektiven der deutsche Wirtschaft - eine Rezession scheint 2023 unausweichlich. So geht das Marketmedia24-Team davon aus, dass sich die Pandemiegewinne für den Outdoor-Markt zunächst nicht fortsetzen werden. Wie stark die Beeinträchtigung ausfallen und wie sich dabei der Outdoor-Konsum entwickeln wird, zeigt der neue „Branchen-REPORT Outdoor 2023“. Dabei wird im Best-Case-Szenario erwartet, dass die Outdoor-Umsätze in diesem Jahr stabil bleiben und dass sie ab 2026 dem langjährigen Wachstumstrend aus der Vor-Corona-Zeit (plus 1,4 Prozent pro Jahr) folgen werden.

Dem deutschen Outdoor-Markt ging es selbst während der Corona-Jahre gut. Denn während in dieser Zeit die Konsumausgaben der Privaten Haushalte sanken, legte der Outdoor-Umsatz 2020 um 8 Prozent und 2021 noch einmal um über 4 Prozent zu. Dabei verlief die Entwicklung der einzelnen Outdoor-Warengruppen (Bekleidung, Schuhe, Ausrüstung, Zelte, Schlafsäcke) recht ähnlich. Wobei Zelte und Schlafsäcke 2021 sogar mehr als doppelt so stark zulegten. Wesentlich geringer – zum Teil sogar negativ – entwickelten sich die Outdoor-Umsätze dagegen 2022. In Summe beläuft sich der Rückgang des Gesamtmarktes auf minus 1,2 Prozent. Wenig Hoffnung gibt es für 2023, denn unter anderem Inflation und Preissteigerungen beschränken die Konsumspielräume, so dass weniger Geld für Outdoor-Einkäufe übrigbleibt.

Das hat zwangsläufig Auswirkungen auf die Umsatzchancen des Handels. Wie in den meisten Märkten war auch die Outdoor-Branche von der verstärkten Verlagerung vom stationären zum Online-Handel geprägt. Auch hier galt, dass in erster Linie der Distanzhandel von den Corona-Beschränkungen profitiert. Dessen Umsatz stieg von 2019 bis 2021 um 40,7 Prozent und der Marktanteil um 3,9 Prozentpunkte. Selbst wenn der Sportfachhandel gleichzeitig an Marktbedeutung verlor, bleiben die stationären Spezialisten mit über 46 Prozent Marktanteil (2022) an der Spitze der Distributionsliste. Der Distanzhandel bewegt sich mit gut 22 Prozent Marktanteil stabil auf dem zweiten Platz. Allerdings zeigte das Jahr 2022 dem Online-Erfolgsformat mit einem Umsatzminus von 1,7 Prozent, dass es mit der Markteroberung nicht zwangsläufig kontinuierlich weitergehen muss.

Vor allem mit der im letzten Jahr wiedergewonnenen Möglichkeiten der haptischen Prüfung, persönlichen Beratung und körperlichen Anprobe fiel beim Einkauf im Sportfachhandel das allgemeine Umsatzminus sogar geringer aus als bei den Onlinern. Zum einen, weil stationäres Shoppen Spaß macht und zum anderen vielleicht auch ganz bewusst, um die „Wiederbelebung“ der Innenstädte zu unterstützen, die durch das Zusammenwirken von Corona und dem Trend zum Online-Kauf überall an Attraktivität verloren haben.

Dennoch erwartet Marketmedia24 für die längerfristige Zukunft keine Trendumkehr in der Vertriebslandschaft. Vielmehr werden sich die Tendenzen bis zum Jahr 2030 sogar noch etwas weiter in die allgemein vorherrschende Richtung vom stationären zum Online-Handel verlagern. Danach wird der Marktanteil der Distanzhändler – bei abschwächender Marktdynamik – in etwa fünf Jahren kurz vor der 30 Prozentmarke stehen. Verlierer werden sämtliche stationäre Handelsformate sein, wobei jedoch der Sportfachhandel seine Marktführerschaft behaupten wird.

15,493 visitors from 107 countries attended the second Istanbul Fashion Connection. Over 300 companies showed their collections on more than 15,000 square meters of exhibition space and provided information about their creative collections and their production capacities in the areas of womenswear, menswear, kidswear, denim, shoes, leather and fur, lingerie and sportswear.

There was busy business activity, the ideal near shore capacities combined with the range of fashion collections experienced great demand. Istanbul Fashion Connection was a meeting point with the opportunity for a face-to-face meeting on a common platform. All trade channels were represented at the fair, from large shopping malls and department store groups to wholesalers, international retail chains, multi-brand boutiques and online platforms.

The global turkish exports in the first half of this year amounted to US$ 12.4 billion, which corresponds to an annual growth of 11.6%. In the EU alone, the total for this period is US$7.7 billion, a growth of 14.7%. Mustafa Gültepe, President of the Turkish Exporters Assembly and IHKIB, announced that ready-to-wear exports are to be increased to $40 billion in the medium term.

The organizers are expecting over 600 companies to attend next IFCO. The exhibitors for the sourcing area will take part in a separate hall. Leading companies have already registered with the association for this. Lingerie and bridal/evening wear will also be shown in their own hall, which seasonally only presents itself once a year in Turkey.
The participation of international fashion companies is encouraged, for which IFCO provides the springboard into the Eastern European market.

Cotton Incorporated published its monthly economic letter of August and shared new insights of the cotton prices:

Cotton prices continue to be caught between the two competing storylines that have been in play for the past several months.
On one side, there is the deteriorating global macroeconomic situation.  The International Monetary Fund (IMF) lowered its projection for global economic growth in both 2022 (3.2%) and 2023 (2.9%) in the updates released in late July.  Current IMF forecasts are significantly beneath those from January (called for 4.4% growth in 2022 and 3.8% growth in 2023) and April (called for 3.6% growth in 2022 and 3.6% growth in 2023).  The evolution in the macroeconomy was a likely factor contributing to the shift in investors’ outlook on the commodity sector, which led to a collapse in prices for cotton and a range of other commodities in June and July.

Beyond the weakening macroeconomic environment, there also may be factors associated with cotton supply chains that could affect demand during the 2022/23 crop year.  Downstream consumer markets for cotton can be viewed as more discretionary than other spending categories, such as food, energy, and lodging, that experienced some of the sharpest effects of inflation.  Given price increases for necessities, consumers may have less income to devote to apparel and home furnishings.

In the U.S., consumer spending on clothing has been flat for the past year.  However, it has been holding at levels that are 25% higher than they were in 2019.  If U.S. consumers pull back on clothing purchases, it may hit the market just as retailers have caught up with consumer demand after the onset of the shipping crisis.  In weight volume, the cotton contained in U.S. apparel imports was up 22% year-over-year in the first half of 2022.  Relative to 2019 (pre-COVID and pre-shipping crisis), the volume in the first half of 2022 was up 23%.  Given strong import volumes, if there is a dip in consumer demand, inventory could build both at retail and upstream in supply chains.  This could lead to cancelations, potentially all the way back to the fiber level, where contracts signed at prices higher than current values could be particularly susceptible.

Tight U.S. supply is on the other side of price direction arguments.  Cotton is drought tolerant, and that is why it can be viably grown in perennially dry locations like West Texas.  However, cotton requires some moisture to germinate and generate healthy yields.  West Texas has had very little rain over the past year, and drought conditions have been extreme.  As a result, abandonment is forecast to be widespread.  It remains to be seen exactly how small the U.S. crop will be, but the current USDA forecast predicts only 12.6 million bales in 2022/23 (-5.0 million fewer bales than in 2021/22).

Meanwhile, demand for U.S. cotton has been relatively consistent, near 18 million bales over the past five crop years (an average of 15.5 million bales of exports and 2.7 million bales of domestic mill-use).  A harvest of only 12.6 million falls well short of the recent average for exports alone, and U.S. stocks were near multi-decade lows coming into 2022/23.  All these statistics suggest shipments from the world’s largest exporter may have to be rationed in 2022/23.  If cotton is not readily available from other sources, the scarcity of supply from the U.S. could support prices globally.

Simultaneously, there is weakness from the demand side.  The market has struggled to find the balance between the weakened demand environment and limited exportable supply in recent months.  The conflict between these two influences makes it difficult to discern a clear direction for prices and suggests continued volatility.

With global consumers becoming more conscious about personal hygiene and environmental protection, exhibitors at Cinte Techtexil China will spotlight materials and technologies for products that respond to these trends. The fair will probe into the associated growth opportunities as the country is one of the leading markets for nonwovens and technical textiles. The event will be held from 6 – 8 September at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre.

The technical textiles and nonwovens industries, the latter notably, are significantly expanding amid the pandemic. A recent forecast[1] predicts that the global polypropylene nonwoven fabric market will continue to rise at a CAGR of 6.7%, reaching USD 39.23 billion by 2028. The anticipated growth is bolstered by demands in end-use industries such as sanitation, medical, automotive and more. In 2020, Asia Pacific was named the largest regional market in the world and is expected to grow significantly over the forecasted period.

The prediction reaffirms the growth prospects of nonwovens. In this regard, industry players expressed much optimism about associated future opportunities during Cinte Techtextil China last year. “The field of nonwovens is poised for a positive growth as the awareness of personal hygiene and pandemic prevention sustains in the domestic market,” commented Mr James Gao, Head of Marketing and Textile Technologies, Uster Technologies (China) Co Ltd. He added: “We decided to join the fair and showcase our new launches as we remain confident in the future development of the industry, especially since China is dominating the global scene.”

Going green is the way forward
Turning to yarns and fibres, the sector is shifting to greener and smarter production that echoes the trend towards sustainability that is gaining considerable traction across the globe. Meanwhile in China, this movement was observed by many exhibitors at the 2021 edition, including Mr Roberto Galante, Plant Manager of FMMG Technical Textiles (Suzhou) Co Ltd, the Chinese subsidiary of the Fil Man Made Group. He mentioned: “The market is paying more attention to environmental protection, and we receive enquiries about special yarns for this every day. We focus on technical yarns for filtration as well as anti-bacterial properties, which are very important for the environment. The potential here in China is incredible and this is a big opportunity for everybody.”

Cinte Techtextil China’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which comprehensively span across a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw material providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions. This scope of product groups and application areas ensures that the fair is an effective business platform for the entire industry.

A new interview study from NGO ChemSec shows that there is a gap between supply and demand when it comes to recycled materials, causing confusion and bottlenecks. Among other things, suppliers go out of their way using elaborate trade schemes to reach the coveted ”100% recycled” tag, which – it turns out – is not that important to consumer product brands. Far more crucial aspects, according to several major B2C companies, are:

• Honest communication towards customers
• Comprehensive information from suppliers
• Clear standards for recycled material

These are some of the conclusions from NGO ChemSec’s survey and interview study with 26 highly well-known consumer product brands. All brands responded to a survey concerning their current plastic use, as well as their needs, expectations and challenges regarding using more recycled material, to enable the shift to a circular economy for plastics.

Ten of the brands then participated in in-depth interviews on the same topics:, Essity, H&M, IKEA, Inditex , Lego, Mars,  SC Johnson, Tarkett, Unilever and Walgreens Boots Alliance.

Is non-mechanical recycling the answer?
Only about ten percent of all discarded plastics is recycled today, which is of course not nearly enough to achieve a circular plastics economy. Despite ambitions and initiatives to reduce plastics use – replacing the materials with other, more sustainable ones – the “plastic tap” is not expected to be turned off anytime soon. Quite the opposite, which makes raising the recycling rates more important than ever.

Although commercially viable, traditional (mechanical) recycling is afflicted with severe flaws, such as legacy chemicals, quality and functionality issues, as well as the lack of clean and sorted waste streams. The brands cited quality and functionality issues as the main obstacles for using more recycled material in their products.

This opens up for non-mechanical recycling, sometimes referred to as chemical recycling, where the plastic is either dissolved or broken down into smaller building blocks. Harmful additives and other hazardous chemicals can be removed in the process, and a material comparable to virgin plastic can be achieved – at least in theory.

So far, however, non-mechanical recycling technologies are costly, energy-intensive, and often require the addition of a great deal of virgin plastic to work – the very material that needs to be phased out.

The chain of custody models needs to be detangled
Apart from these production issues, there is a wide range of chain of custody models surrounding non-mechanical recycling, including mass balance and book & claim, which enable trade of credits or certificates for recycled material.

This cuts the physical connection between input and output, making it possible for a supplier to sell a material as “100% recycled”, when the actual recycled content could be zero.

This is a major issue for the brands ChemSec has spoken to, who value honest and correct communication towards customers. It turns out, perhaps somewhat surprisingly, that being able to slap a “made from 100% recycled plastic” label on a product is not all that important to brands.

To the brands, a physical connection between input (the discarded plastic waste headed for recycling) and output (the product at least partially made from recycled plastics) is far more important.

A physical connection, along with correct and adequate information from suppliers, as well as clearer standards and guidelines than what is available today, is what brands require to increase the use of recycled material and move us closer to a circular economy for plastics.