From the Sector

Polartec, will upgrade two of its product platforms now using Biolon™ *, plant-based nylon fiber and membrane setting a new standard in sustainability for performance fabrics. Polartec®  Power Shield™ and Power Stretch™ Pro fabrics containing Biolon™ fibers and membranes will premiere this autumn.

Biolon™ is a renewable, non-GMO plant-based nylon with a 50% lower carbon footprint than virgin Nylon 6,6.  Biolon™ nylon properties  are closer to Nylon 6,6 than many recycled nylon alternatives currently on the market.  Biolon™ has re-worked a staple, making the best, better in terms of performance and sustainability. Its plant-based inputs account for approximately half (45-48%) of the nylon content in the fibers and membranes in new Polartec® Power Shield™ and Power Stretch™ Pro fabrics debuting this fall.

Ramesh Kesh, Senior Vice President – Government & Defense and Polartec at Milliken & Company said, “For a long time, many thought that sustainable options meant a loss in performance, like durability, Polartec has proved that this is not the case. Challenging a technology already considered to be at the pinnacle of performance was a big ask yet the team at Polartec rose to that challenge and we believe we have created a new standard in sustainability for performance fabrics.” 

The new Orthopac RXVMC-20 automatic straightening system for forward control of knitwear with strong distortions can remove distortions in textile webs even faster and more precisely.

"With the new straightening concept, special attention was paid to the straightening mechanics and their interaction with the analysis electronics of the scanner system," explains Head of Sales Thomas Höpfl. Two individually controlled and driven straightening modules with a total of four bow and three skew rollers ensure that the correction of bow and skew distortions takes place in small steps. The control concept is also new. A scanner group at the infeed of the straightening machine detects distortions even before they reach the correction rollers. This way, the rollers are brought directly into position and the fabric is corrected from the very first centimetre. A scanner group at the outlet also detects possible residual distortion, which is corrected at the second straightening module. This enables an even more precise and faster response when it comes to reacting to rapidly changing distortions.

The Orthopac RXVMC therefore shows its full strength when straightening knitwear and distortion-sensitive fabrics. Knitted fabrics are special in terms of distortion dynamics. It is difficult for operators when changing the fabric rolls to join the relatively short fabric webs with weft and loop-straight seams. Before and after unavoidable insufficient seams, the distortion (e.g. right before to left before) changes abruptly. Conventionally, the distortion change is only detected by scanning at the output of the straightener.
 
The RXVMC concept enables a shortened reaction time to jumping distortion, (especially in the case of seams) due to the improved scanning concept with scanning at the outlet and inlet. This reduces knitted fabric outside the straightening tolerance up to 50 percent after each seam. Fewer fabric pieces have to be reprocessed. It guarantees higher quality goods and thus less waste.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, revealed the three finalists that will compete for the Hygienix Innovation Award™. Glatfelter, Mundeo, and Sequel will present their new absorbent hygiene products to senior-level leaders at Hygienix, Nov. 13-16, New Orleans, Louisiana.

Here is a summary of the finalists’ products:

Glatfelter: GlatPure™
GlatPure™ is a range of bio-based absorbent hygiene components derived from renewable materials. This product range consists of a variety of plant-based and natural topsheets, an acquisition distribution layer, an absorbent core, a newly improved backsheet, and a landing zone. Crafted from 100% renewable fibers and biodegradable materials, and enriched with bio-based binders, GlatPure™ stands as the industry’s first fully functional, fossil-fuel free range of solutions.  

Mundao: Diap’Earth®
From nature to nature: Mundao brings to market DIAP’EARTH®, an industrially compostable baby diaper. This diaper provides a circular solution to the AHP waste issue. Ecoconception (DIAP’EARTH is a bio-based & plastic free diaper) makes it possible to compost the diaper in an industrial composting facility to turn it into carbon where it can become fertilizer for soil. DIAP’EARTH has been successfully composted in major French cities.

Sequel: The Sequel Spiral™ Tampon
The Sequel Spiral™ Tampon features a proprietary spiral design that is engineered to be more fluid mechanically efficient, meaning it is designed to absorb more evenly and not leak before it’s full. In August 2023 the Sequel Spiral™ Tampon received clearance from the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) as a medical device and the company will now begin a series of consumer trials, with broad availability expected in Q1 of 2024.

The winner of the Award will be announced at the end of the event, Thurs., Nov. 16th, at 11:30 am. Last year’s award recipient was Pads on a Roll™ by Egal Pads. Pads on a Roll is a wrapped super-thin absorbent period pad that dispenses like toilet paper in public bathroom stalls, preventing the personal embarrassment of not having a menstrual product when needed.

Conference Highlights
In addition to the award presentation, the Hygienix™ conference will focus on consumer-centric innovations, the circular economy, raw material advancements in sustainability, opportunities for advanced recycling in absorbent hygiene, optimizing the packaging footprint, new approaches for odor control, and market trends and drivers. Plus, INDA’s Government Affairs office will be in attendance to provide insights into recent regulatory and legislative issues. Participants can learn about how the current political landscape could affect the nonwovens industry.

Radilon® Chill-fit is the new solution to maximise the breathability and freshness that a fabric can offer. The highly functional nylon yarn is capable of ensuring an intrinsic and permanent thermoregulation without the need for additional treatments while offering high protection against UV rays. Visitors will be able to touch and feel the yarn for the first time at the autumn edition of Performance Days, the reference trade fair for trends and innovations in yarn, fabric and accessories, to be held in Munich (Germany) on 4 and 5 October.

Radilon® Chill-fit’s high breathability allows air and moisture to pass through quickly, keeping the wearer fresh and comfortable: a result also proven by a specific test on body temperature changes (thermocamera test) comparing a garment made with traditional yarn and one made with Chill-fit.

ISKO provided their latest innovation in material science to British designers, Priya Ahluwalia, Masha Popova, Chet Lo and Aaron Esh, for the London Fashion Week SS24 season.

Alongside supplying their latest denim fabrics, ISKO opened its doors to its London-based product development centre, Creative Room London, for finishing and washing of their final designs as well providing expertise and knowledge in denim design and construction.

Priya Ahluwalia
For Ahluwalia’s Spring Summer 24 collection, entitled Acknowledgements, Creative Director and founder Priya Ahluwalia’s research led her on a journey of creative rediscovery.
ISKO’s Ctrl+Z fabric, which is made entirely from recycled and regenerated fibres, was used to create the flower motif denim showcase within 3 looks across jeans and jackets. This development contains no virgin cotton and uses a minimum of 60% recycled materials and the remainder is regenerated cellulose fibres while still giving a look and feel identical to traditional denim and speaks to Ahluwalia’s ongoing commitment to sustainable design and business practices.

Chet Lo
This season, Chet Lo took an active stand in reclaiming the power lost during his youth, healing the childhood wounds inflicted by a society that sidelined differences instead of celebrating them.
ISKO’s Ctrl+Z fabric and specialist lasering techniques from ISKO’s Creative Room was used across three looks featuring signature Chet Lo erotic laser prints across denim bottoms.

Aaron Esh
The SS24 season marked the brand’s debut at London Fashion Week, a homecoming of sorts for Esh, who was born and raised in the heart of the British capital, studied at Central Saint Martins and became a finalist at the LVMH Prize earlier this year. The early impulses of Aaron Esh remain steadfast: clothes that combine establishment rigour with the rebellious spirit of youth culture, devotedly crafted for a generation who feels somewhere in-between.
Aaron created bootleg denim ripped jeans made entirely from ISKO Denim using R-TWO50 fabric, which comprises a minimum of 50% pre and post-consumer recycled content. The designer noted the addition of denim accompanied by leathers add a new level of depth to their latest collection.

Masha Popova
Masha Popova’s sophomore catwalk outing, MONSTER was a “seasonless” offering that combines Autumn Winter 2023 and Spring Summer 2024.
Masha continued her obsession with denim manipulation, using various finishings including over-dyeing, flocking, patchwork, scratching and fraying in a variety of colours from vibrant green to silver across jeans, tops and jackets, all developed with the help of ISKO’s Creative Room, London.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, is partnering with the Waterloo Filtration Institute to deliver the FiltXPO™ technical program on October 10-11, 2023 in Chicago, Illinois. The Waterloo Filtration Institute was instrumental in recommending program topics and world-class presenters.

Engineers, scientists, and industry professionals will gain the latest insights into the filtration and separation topics affecting the industry today and into the future. The program features presentations include: filter media technologies, advancements and opportunities in filtration machinery and equipment, innovations in clean air for homes and urban areas, standards and testing, industry trends and new developments, and filtration challenges and opportunities.

The keynote for this year’s event is “IAQ Is the New Black” presented by Suzanne Shelton, President & CEO, Shelton Group. Shelton will share the latest data around consumer views on health, safety, people, and the planet. Participants will gain an understanding of the filtration opportunities and the challenges manufacturers face in communicating the value of their products.

A preview of the subject matter experts includes:

• AAF Flanders – “Air Filter Standards Activity and What It Means for Innovation”
• Ahlstrom – “Expanding Wetlaid Filtration Media Performance Through Innovation”
• Air Techniques International – “Application of Automated Filter Tester in Quality Control Testing: Importance of Consistent Aerosol Particle Size Distribution”
• American Truetzschler, Inc. – “How Really Good Filter Media Is Made”
• CEREX Advanced Fabrics – “The Antimicrobial Nylon Advantage”
• Elsner Engineering Works, Inc. – “When Does Automation Make Sense”
• Hollingsworth & Vose – “Accelerating Membrane Adoption with ROI”
• INDA – “Beyond Porter’s Five Forces – When Regulation Reshapes Markets”
• MANN+HUMMEL GmbH – “Filtration for Cleaner Urban Mobility – Introducing Horizon Europe Innovation Action Aersolfd”
• NatureWorks – “Optimizing Biopolymers to Improve Filter Performance – A Spectrum of Approaches and Opportunities”
• Palas GmbH – “Influence of Temperature and Humidity to Filter Efficiency and Dust Holding Capacity”
• Ptak Consulting – “Residential Filtration – Performance Against Infectious Aerosols”
• The University of Georgia – “Recent Advances in Melt Blown Nonwovens and Filter Media Research”

New this year to FiltXPO are Lightning Talks. Lightning Talks are an opportunity to connect with new trends, products, innovations, and ideas with speakers rotating every eight minutes. Presenting companies include Ahlstrom, Elsner Engineering Works, Inc., Gottlieb Binder GmbH, TSI, and the Waterloo Filtration Institute.

The FiltXPO exhibition takes place October 10-12 and will run concurrently with the technical program.

Lectra, a leader in technology solutions for the fashion, automotive and furniture industries, announces the appointment of Frédéric Morel as President of the Asia-Pacific region and as a member of the Group's Executive Committee, where he replaces Edward Wang, who previously held the same position. This nomination comes as Lectra prepares to present its latest software and connected equipment offers at the CISMA (China International Sewing Machinery and Accessories) trade show in Shanghai, China, to enable Asian industry players to accelerate their transition to Industry 4.0.

Lectra's presence in the Asia-Pacific region began in 1985 with the opening of its first office in Japan. Today, Lectra employs 16% of its workforce in the region, which accounted for 25% of the Group's revenues in 2022. Thanks to its dynamism, economic fabric and position in world trade, China is a key market in this region, generating 9% of Lectra’s revenues in 2022.

Prior to joining Lectra, Frédéric Morel held the position of South East Asia & Pacific Executive Vice President at Vallourec. He had previously been appointed Sales Director and then Sales Vice President for Vallourec in the Middle East, after holding various sales and general management positions for the company in the Asia region. A graduate of the Institut d'Etudes Politiques d'Aix-en-Provence and the EMLYON business school, Frédéric Morel began his career in 2000 with Saint-Gobain.

The Südwolle collection of yarns for weaving and circular knitting continues its evolutionary path based on the key concept of Responsibility. This principle guides Südwolle Group's commitment and engagement regarding all areas of business and stakeholders - the environment, the textile industry production chain, consumers, employees and the social repercussions of its business.

The intersection between these 6 areas has resulted in a collection in which the concept of seasonality is blurred, and products have a flexible, versatile use. The use of cutting-edge technology means yarns offer a high level of quality, suitable for apparel with outstanding durability, a factor that helps to reduce the environmental impact of textile waste and disposable fashion.

Overview of the collection
The collection is divided into 4 themes.
Natural, biodegradable or recycled fibre blends intended for crepe and crinkled fabrics are characterized by substantial twist and a high level of performance. The selection of fibres is oriented towards sustainability, with wool and silk organze combined with LENZINGTM ECOVEROTM viscose and Q-NOVA® regenerated polyamide.

Fuji crepe X-compact Nm 40/1 Z 1050 (40% wool 21.2 μ, 60% FSC certified LENZINGTM viscose EV), new this season, features a smooth look and no pilling thanks to the use of X-compact spinning technology, which produces yarns with excellent performance and durability.

When it comes to light, natural blends, wool and linen or wool, linen and silk blends follow the trend for softly fluid structures, such as the new Peschici Nm 42/1 Z 600 (53% wool 18.4 μ, 23% linen, 24% silk), with a fresh, dry handle and very current dappled effect, which results from the skilful combination of different fibres.

Contributing to a more sustainable and traceable textile production also involves attention to all fibres used. Mohair used for luxury yarns in noble fibres is strictly RMS (Responsible Mohair Standard) certified, which traces its origin, guaranteeing animal welfare and production according to responsible standards, similar to the analogous RWS (Responsible Wool Standard) used for wool. Bosforo RWS RMS Nm 32/1 Z 950 (20% wool 20.8 μ RWS, 60% FSC certified LENZINGTM viscose EV, 20% RMS Kid Mohair) is a fresh, bright yarn that is soft on the skin, suitable for trans-seasonal products, an example of careful selection of raw materials.

Among the fancy yarns, delicately animated structures predominate for naturally elegant creations, represented by Niche Nm 34/2 S 460 (42% wool 21.2 μ, 58% bourette silk), a twisted yarn in wool and bourette silk, which adds dynamism with its characteristic rough, knotty surface.

Technological progress often results from close collaboration, and industries that rely on continual improvement stand to benefit from the return to in-person business. Cinte Techtextil China’s first edition since eased pandemic measures is set to reflect a 27.9% increase in exhibitor numbers, with a rejuvenated international contingent further supplemented by the return of the European Zone. Taking place from 19 – 21 September across 40,000 sqm at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre, the platform is expected to welcome buyers from across Asia, Europe, and beyond. Pre-registrations have doubled compared to the previous edition, and international buyers account for over 20% of the total.

The new zone, Marine Textile Zone, will be comprised of multiple Chinese green marine and nautical rope netting exhibitors, while also hosting the Technology Exchange Forum, and the awards ceremony of the Top 10 Suppliers in the China Rope Net Industry. Prominent exhibitors in this zone include Ropenet Group, Hunan Xinhai, and Zhejiang Four Brothers Rope.

Other domestic exhibitors, such as Shanghai Shenda Kebao New Materials, SIJIA New Material (Shanghai), Zhejiang Hailide New Material, and Zhejiang Jinda New Materials, will showcase products for applications in outdoor advertising, tents, boats, vehicles, environmental engineering, and much more.

Supplementing the fairground’s wide variety of domestic suppliers will be a much-increased showing of international exhibitors, with many to be found within hall E1’s European Zone. Several global industry leaders are featured in their categories below:

Nonwovens equipment

• Autefa Solutions, Germany: solutions provider for nonwovens lines and machines for carded-crosslapped needlepunching lines, spunlace lines and thermobonding lines.
• Dilo, Germany: in addition to offering general services, Dilo supplies opening and blending equipment, carding and airlay machines, and crosslapping and needling machines.
• Groz-Beckert, Germany: provider of industrial machine needles, precision parts and fine tools, as well as systems and services for the production and joining of textile fabrics.
• Reifenhäuser Reicofil, Germany: provider of innovative technologies and components for plastics extrusion, producing blown films, cast films, sheets as well as nonwovens.

Weaving equipment

• Itema, Italy: provider of advanced weaving machines, spare parts, and integrated services, specifically for rapier, air jet and projectile weft insertion technologies.
• Lindauer DORNIER, Germany: the company manufactures weaving machines, film stretching lines, and composite systems, also offering technical support and spare parts supply.
• Picanol, Belgium: producer and servicer of high-tech air jet and rapier weaving machines, with around 2,600 weaving mills utilising their systems worldwide.

Coating and lamination

• BRÜCKNER Textile Technologies, Germany: manufacturer of machines and lines for the coating and finishing of apparel fabric, technical textiles, nonwovens, glass fabrics and floor coverings.
• ROWA Lack, Germany: developer of high-quality materials and product solutions for the polymer industry, with applications including automotive, electrical engineering, construction, technical textiles, and medical technology.
• Stahl, the Netherlands: the Dutch company provides high quality coatings, dyes and process chemicals for leather, flexible coated substrates, textiles, films and foils, paper, and related products.

Fibre

• Monosuisse, Switzerland: with production sites in Switzerland, Poland, Romania, Mexico, and Germany, Monosuisse manufactures various precise, high-quality polymer monofilaments from 19µm to 3.00 mm in diameter.
• Perlon, Germany: specialised in the manufacture of synthetic filaments in diverse application areas, including paper machine clothing, dental care, and advanced technical textiles for agriculture, 3D printing, sports and leisure, home, and more.

Meanwhile, first-time exhibitors include Rökona (Germany), showcasing RE:SPACE, their range of recycled technical textiles; Testex AG (Switzerland), the official OEKO-TEX® representative in multiple countries including China; Hohenstein (Germany), the renowned testing laboratory and research institute; and zwissTEX (Germany), the knitted fabrics and lamination specialists. In addition, the returning Taiwan Pavilion is set to feature the debut of Shinih Enterprise Co Ltd (Taiwan China).

Beyond the innovation displayed at the booths, the fair’s programme is set to welcome global experts from various technical textile and nonwoven sub-sectors to offer specific insights and unveil innovations. Highlighted events include:

The 11th China International Nonwovens Conference
14 sessions cover topics such as the quality control of medical supplies; green development in technology and applications in the nonwovens industry; and the development and application of flashspun nonwovens in China.

Marine textiles and rope netting events
Events specific to this zone include the Top 10 Suppliers in the China Rope Net Industry; Conference on Textile Applications for Marine Engineering and Fisheries; and the China Nonwovens & Industrial Textiles Association (CNITA) Rope Net Branch Council Meeting

"Nonwovens, Creating a Better Life” Innovation Showcase
Product display area showcasing around 100 nonwovens products with applications in five areas: medical and health, quality of life, human habitat, sustainable development, and innovative design.

Advanced Technical Textiles Industry Chain Synergistic Innovation Development Forum
Includes presentations from multiple key players in the technical textile industry, including Mr Steven Liu, Commercial Manager of Polymer Additives Business of Sanitized (China) Ltd.

Santoni Shanghai Knitting Machinery Co., Ltd. announced the strategic acquisition of Terrot GmbH, a manufacturer of circular knitting machines based in Chemnitz, Germany. The move comes as the latest development in Santoni Shanghai’s long-term vision to build an ecosystem that aims to reshape and consolidate the circular knitting industry. The transaction will be finalized pending approval from Chinese regulatory authorities.

The global circular knitting machine market is expected to see significant growth in the coming years, with a July 2023 report from Consegic Business Intelligence forecasting a 5.7% CAGR from 2023 to 2030, propelled by an increasing consumer preference for breathable and comfortable knitted fabrics as well as increasingly diversification of demand for knitted apparel. To seize this market opportunity, Santoni Shanghai has developed an ambitious strategic plan centered around innovation, sustainability and digitalization. The new partnership with Terrot aims to further this strategy by enhancing Santoni’s integrated and scaled-up ecosystem, while also driving the sustainable development of the global knitting machinery industry.

“With the strategic investment of Santoni, we aim to strengthen our position as the preferred solution provider to many of the world’s leading textile manufacturers and top brands as well as continue working with industry talents as we provide valuable and essential know-how to drive premium ‘Made in Germany’ textile machinery.” said Robert Czajkowski, Managing Director of Terrot GmbH. "We have found a strong, globally active partner with clear dedication to quality, performance and excellent expertise in all circular knitting segments, who understands the unique value proposition and potentials of our portfolio and with whom we can realize our growth objectives” he added.