From the Sector

ITMA 2023 was a successful platform for the flat knitting machine manufacturer STOLL to present its latest new developments. The business unit of the KARL MAYER GROUP will be following up this fair on 3 July with the launch of a further innovation package. With the solutions contained in this package, STOLL will be offering its customers additional added value when using their flat knitting machines - in line with the concept of bundling innovations.

The new features include an optimised central lubrication system that reduces both maintenance effort and oil consumption, this as standard from July 2023 for all models of the CMS and ADF series produced in Reutlingen.
Compared to the previous optional variant, it ensures more efficient and comprehensive lubrication. All needle bed elements, from the holding-down jack to the coupling part and intermediate slider to the selection jack, are now supplied with oil. The machine itself recognises whether lubrication is required. Independently of this, the lubrication intensity and oil distribution can be adapted to the individual machine conditions by setting various parameters, if required. To ensure that the required amount of lubricant is reliably supplied, a message is sent if the level is too low.

In addition, a new oil drain container as standard equipment for all CMS and ADF models catches used oil from the needle bed under the machine. This prevents soiling of floors or knitted fabrics. The emptying of the container can be efficiently managed by an adjustable reminder function. The neat and at the same time sustainable solution does not require cleaning agents or hoovers and offers the possibility to reuse the oil after cleaning through special filters, if necessary.

Users of CMS and ADF belt take-down machines can benefit from optimisations around the belt take-down. Thanks to the new STOLL innovation package, this can be turned forwards and backwards by means of a switch as standard in order to easily eliminate fabric wraps and thus reduce maintenance times. In addition, a mirror, which is also fitted as standard, ensures a simple visual check of the belt take-down.

Another solution of the STOLL innovation package from July 2023 includes new cams that enable split-stitch implementation without cam box modification. This reduces manual effort and thus conversion times and costs. The feature is standard on all fine gauges ADF and CMS machines.

For the W machines from STOLL, there is now a further inlay yarn carrier, the Qt, in addition to the previous Qw yarn carrier. The extension means that the number of inlay yarn carriers used in a system can be increased from the previous one to three. No additional system is required for the weft yarn, and the process steps weft yarn insertion and knitting take place in the same system.

From circular knitting machines and braiders via upgrades to digital solutions, Mayer & Cie. presented at ITMA 2023 a wide range of solutions that make circular knitting machines and braiding machines even more durable and thereby more valuable, for which the long-established firm received a positive visitor response.

From machinery manufacturer to solution provider
Three circular knitting machines – a Relanit 3.2 HS, an SF4-3.2 III and the OVJA 2.4 EM – and an MR-15/18C/Single Deck braiding machine took up about half the floor space of Mayer & Cie.’s ITMA stand. That reflected the weighting of the trade fair presentation. Along with high-tech circular knitting and braiding products the Mayer & Cie. focus at this year’s ITMA was on solutions that increase the value and durability of its machines. Including the digital platform knitlink, the new Control 5.0 machine control system, the camera-assisted error recognition system knithawk, almost a dozen upgrade kits for existing machines and the new oiler system Senso Blue RS.

Trade fair debut for Mayer & Cie. braiding machine
Mayer & Cie. also exhibited a braiding machine at ITMA for the first time. The company has integrated the braiding division at is Albstadt headquarters since 2019. “Braiding machines are a part of textile machinery,” said Mayer & Cie. Managing Partner Benjamin Maye, “but we nevertheless saw presenting the MR-15/18C/SD braider at ITMA as an experiment – and are satisfied with the result. The machine attracted a great deal of attention and we were able to make interesting contacts.”

A positive conclusion on ITMA 2023
Expectations of this year’s ITMA were moderate, Benjamin Mayer said. “War, high energy prices, inflation and recession are the signs of the times. Not even an ITMA is going to change that.” In addition, there had been serious problems with the issue of visas that had made it impossible for many potential visitors to attend the trade fair.

The Mayer & Cie. management therefore judged its success not by the general demand but by the positive visitor feedback. “For us that was an indicator of our future competitiveness,” said CEO Benjamin Mayer, “and we can definitely be sure of that with our developments.”

SHIMA SEIKI ITALIA S.p.A., Italian subsidiary of leading Japanese computerized knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD., will exhibit at the 93rd edition of the Pitti Immagine Filati exhibition in Florence, Italy. It will exhibit as part of the new CustomEasy section, which explores the various aspects of customization in the presence of textile machinery, including a multi-faceted lineup of SHIMA SEIKI WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines.

The WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine SWG-XR® features 4 needle beds for all-needle knitting of high quality WHOLEGARMENT® products using the company's original SlideNeedle™. SWG-XR® features a re-designed sinker system and a compact, light-weight carriage featuring 4 systems as well as auto yarn carriers. All contribute to increased productivity of more than 25% over the previous MACH2®XS machine, as well as increased product range using a wider variety of yarn for supporting knits for all seasons, and higher quality for knitting beautiful fabrics and silhouettes; even items that were impossible to knit with the MACH2® series, including punch-lace patterns, variable stitch knitting and intarsia knitting. Setting new standards for the next generation of waste-free, sustainable WHOLEGARMENT® knitting, SWG-XR® at Pitti Filati will be shown in 18L.

Affectionately referred to as “SWG®-Mini,” SHIMA SEIKI's compact line of WHOLEGARMENT® machines allows customers to take advantage of the same short lead times and versatile production as larger WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machines, but with minimal investment. SWG®091N2 with its 36-inch (90cm) knitting width is especially suited to knitting a wide variety of items including accessory items as well as childrenswear and smaller size garments, all without the need for linking or sewing afterward. At Pitti Filati SWG®091N2 will be shown in 5 gauge.

A new proposal in WHOLEGARMENT® knitting will also be shown in the form of the N.SVR®183 WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine. SHIMA SEIKI's global standard in shaped knitting, the N.SVR® series now features a model for producing WHOLEGARMENT® knitwear using every other needle in fine gauge. N.SVR®183 is equipped with the R2CARRIAGE® system and a compact, lightweight carriage for even higher productivity. Shown in 21G at Pitti Filati 93, N.SVR®183 is the ideal machine for flexible, entry-level WHOLEGARMENT® production, with the versatility to respond to fluctuating market demand.

APEXFiz® subscription-based design software supports the creative side of fashion from planning and design to colorway evaluation, realistic fabric simulation and 3D virtual sampling. Virtual samples are a digitized version of sample making that are accurate enough to be used effectively as prototypes. By replacing physical samples, virtual samples reduce time, cost and material that otherwise go to waste. APEXFiz® thereby helps to realize sustainability and digitally transform the fashion supply chain.

Continuing from past editions of Pitti Filati are knit samples produced in collaboration with Italian designer Vittorio Branchizio, as well as samples from SHIMA SEIKI headquarters for assessing the potential of SHIMA SEIKI knitting machines.

KARL MAYER GROUP will be presenting a WEFTTRONIC® II G at the ITMA with new features and upgrades for greater efficiency. This warp knitting machine with weft insertion produces lattice structures from high-strength polyester, which are firmly established in the construction industry in particular. With a working width of 213", it offers productivity and further advantages through design innovations. New features include weft thread tension monitoring, management and the new VARIO WEFT laying system. The component for the weft insertion aims at maximum flexibility. It allows the patterning of the weft yarn to be changed quickly and easily electronically, without mechanical intervention during yarn insertion and without limits on repeat lengths. In addition, there is less waste.

The KARL MAYER GROUP also supports its customers with well thought-out Care Solutions. The new support offers include retrofit packages for retrofitting control and drive technology for weft insertion and composite machines, and service packages that bundle various services. These include machine inspections and the replacement of all drive belts. The customer benefits from fixed prices that cover the costs of technician assignments, various discount options and transparent services.

A new solution for the vertical greening of cities is presented from the field of application for technical textiles. The core of the innovation is a grid textile produced on warp knitting machines with weft insertion by KARL MAYER Technische Textilien GmbH. The knitted lattice fabric is made of flax. It is used as a climbing aid for fast-growing plants, and after the greening phase, in autumn, it can be recycled together with these plants as biomass in pyrolysis plants to produce electricity and activated carbon. In summer, the planted sails lower the ambient temperature through evaporation effects. In addition, photosynthesis creates fresh air and binds CO2. Other important advantages are low soil requirements and flexible placement in public spaces. The greening system was developed by the company Micro Climate Cultivation, OMC°C, with the support of KARL MAYER Technische Textilien.

The KARL MAYER GROUP will also be exhibiting a sustainable composite solution made from natural fibres. The reinforcing textile of the innovative lightweight material is a multiaxial non-crimp fabric, which was also produced from the bio-based raw material flax on a COP MAX 4 from KARL MAYER Technische Textilien. The boatbuilding specialist GREENBOATS uses natural fibre composites to achieve sustainable products. The fact that it succeeds in this is shown, for example, by the Global Warming Potential (GWP): 0.48 kg of CO2 per kilogram of flax reinforcement compares with 2.9 kg of CO2 per kilogram of glass textile.

Klaus Steger (64), CEO of ERWO Holding AG (“ERWO Holding”) and Hoftex Group AG (“Hoftex Group”), will step down from the Management Board of both companies at the beginning of 2024 in accordance with internal policies of the family and the company regarding the retirement age. Already on June 30, 2023, ERWO Holding Management Board member Hans-Georg von Schuh will retire as planned. ERWO Holding Management Board member Manfred Heinrich will also leave the Board as planned at this time and will continue to hold his mandate as one of the managing directors in the Südwolle Group together with Stéphane Thouvay and Johannes Rauch.

Steger’s designated successor as CEO of both companies is Manuela Spörl (50), currently CFO of ERWO Holding and also CFO of Hoftex Group. Hoftex Group is a group of medium-sized companies in the textile industry, in which ERWO Holding holds a significant stake. In addition, ERWO Holding acts as the parent company of the Südwolle Group, in which the Group’s worsted yarn activities are bundled.

Spörl has a degree in business administration and has been working for Hoftex Group since 2000. Her professional career began in the Corporate Controlling department, and in 2012 she was appointed as an advisor to the Board of Management. She was granted power of attorney in 2015, followed by appointments as CFO of the Hoftex Group in 2020 and CFO of the ERWO Group in 2022. A search for a successor for Spörl in the position of CFO of the Hoftex Group and, subsequently, of ERWO Holding is currently underway. Until the new CFO takes office, the two members of the Management Board, together with the Supervisory Board, will ensure an orderly transition.

The announced change in the Management Board of ERWO Holding, which acts as the parent company of the Südwolle Group, also ensures continuity at the leading manufacturer of worsted yarns for weaving, circular and flat knitting products in pure wool and wool blends. In the future, the management of Südwolle Group will continue to consist of the longstanding members Manfred Heinrich (Technology, Production & Planning), Johannes Rauch (Finance & Controlling) and Stéphane Thouvay (Sales & Marketing and Product Management & Innovation). Together with the designated board member of the parent company ERWO Holding, they will continue the successful development of the Südwolle Group from a mere supplier to a strategic partner of its customers as well as the growth trend of recent years.

The founding family Steger remains involved in the various supervisory bodies of the group of companies and will continue to work closely with them as the sole shareholder of ERWO Holding.

"ITA Aachen and ITA Augsburg are part of the ITA Group International Centre for Sustainable Textiles. Experience our textile innovations at two exhibition booths," explains ITA Institute Director Professor Dr. Thomas Gries. "See our ring spinning tester at booth H3-B304, which spins recycled fibres sustainably and individually in a previously impossible fineness. In addition, there is digital yarn monitoring, which enables new market potentials. Get an idea of the Recycling Atelier of ITA Augsburg at booth H3-A207 and see the textile cycle from used textile to solution steps for industrial implementation together with industry partners. Join us on the Walk4Recycling and follow the path from used textile to a new knitted pullover on a tour of the trade fair. This is how we live up to our claim as the ITA Group: sustainable - digital - individual."

ITA Aachen - Digital ring spinning tester for recycled fibres enables spinning of fine yarns with high recycled fibres content
The Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University (ITA) will be exhibiting a digital ring spinning tester, which spins recycled fibres directly and conventionally with a particularly high content of 60-70 percent. Up to now, recycled yarns have mainly been rotor-spun in this blend ratio. This results in rather coarse yarns and is not suitable for finer textiles such as outerwear. Ring spinning of recycled yarns now enables the spinning of finer yarns and thus a higher application level for recycled materials.

A unique selling point of the ITA ring spinning tester is the simultaneous spinning in the direct spinning process from the sliver and in the classic ring spinning process. For this purpose, the strength and elongation of the spun yarn are determined online and digitally for the first time. The real-time measurement allows process parameters and yarn properties to be adjusted iteratively and quickly. The ring spinning tester was upgraded from an existing tester to Industry 4.0 standard and is operated via a tablet. Operation via tablet enables the adjustment of process parameters including online quality monitoring remotely from anywhere in the world.
 
For this purpose, the ring spinning tester is also able to produce fine ring spun yarns. These yarns made from recycled material opens up a multitude of further fields of application for woven and knitted goods. Now, for example, clothing and technical textiles can be made from recycled material, the production of which was not possible before - such as outerwear made from recycled material. The development of new industries and fields of application opens up new market potential for recycled yarns - also and especially for processing in Europe. This creates the opportunity to preserve key technologies and jobs in cost-intensive locations.

ITA Augsburg - Recycling Atelier: Walk4Recycling
The Recycling Atelier of the Institut für Textiltechnik Augsburg gGmbH on stand H3-A207 presents the textile recycling from used textiles into new products via the various process steps and, together with the industrial partners, opens up solution paths for industrial implementation.

Under the headline "Walk4Recycling", a tour of the fair shows the cycle of used textiles from used knitwear into a new knitted pullover via a ring yarn made from a blend of 65 percent recycled cotton and 35 percent virgin polyester. The key innovation here is the high proportion of recycled fibres from post-consumer textiles for a ring yarn of this fineness. Today, mainly coarse rotor yarns for low-quality textiles are spun from these materials. The industrial partners participating in the Walk4Recycling are partners of the Recycling Atelier and contribute with their technologies to the fact that fibre material from old clothes can be processed in various process stages into a yarn of new value and high-quality ready-made garments.

The Walk4Recycling offers visitors the opportunity to experience a complete recycling cycle with the numerous process stages from tearing the old textiles, preparing and spinning the fibres and knitting a new jumper live during the fair. Get detailed information on the mechanical recycling of clothing via QR code, website and flyer about the participating exhibitors and their machines and technologies. A short movie will give you additional insights into the various processes involved in the production of the jumper.

From April 25^th to 27^th, 2023, the Institute of Textile Machinery and High Performance Material Technology (ITM) of TU Dresden will be exhibiting at the pavilion SAXONY! at JEC World 2023.

The ITM will provide a comprehensive overview of its current research in the field of machine and product development along the entire textile process chain.

The upcoming JEC 2023 exhibition will highlight innovative Customised Connective Cores (CCC), which are custom-made core-insert structures additively manufactured using cellular metal and a form-fit integrated insert. These CCCs can be seamless integrated either as patches or as full-surface core material into lightweight panels, offering significantly improved load-bearing behavior (especially 4 times the load-bearing capacity and fail-safe behavior) compared to existing technologies. This breakthrough opens up new possibilities for fastening lightweight panels.

Another highlight at the exhibition is the repair process for fibre-reinforced composites (FRP) developed at the ITM. Instead of mechanically grinding the damaged area, the matrix in the repair area is locally dissolved using a UV-rays-induced depolymerisation process. Damaged fibres can thus be replaced by a customized repair patch. Free yarn ends on the textile repair patches are spliced with the UV-exposed yarn ends in the repair area using an adapted splicing process. In this way, a very clean, simplified and mechanically improved repair area can be achieved compared to the state of the art.

The diverse possibilities offered by the structure and process simulation of textile high-performance materials and textile manufacturing processes will also be presented. By means of multi-scale modelling and simulation, a profound understanding of materials and processes is achieved at the ITM. Finite element models on the micro, meso and macro scale have been developed and validated for this purpose. Examples from current ITM research projects demonstrate the various possibilities and areas of application of modern simulation methods in the field of textile technology.

Moreover, an innovative process for the integral manufacturing of 3D rib-stiffened preforms with complexly arranged stiffeners in 0°, 90° and ± 45° orientation was developed and successfully implemented at the ITM. Due to the process-integrated structure fixation and the continuous fibre reinforcement between shell and rib structure, the 3D preforms are perfectly suited for the production of highly load-bearing FRP components with increased bending stiffness, which will be exhibited at JEC. Hence, the lightweight construction potential of high-performance fibres can be fully exploited.

A successfully established development are partially flowable 2D textile reinforcement fabrics that are continuously manufactured in one single process step. For this purpose, the entire process chain was developed at the ITM, which allows a cost-effective and high-volume production of load-bearing thermoplastic 3D FRP components with continuous fibre reinforcement between shell and stiffeners.

At JEC 2023, the ITM will also present a partially embedded textile latice girder as reinforcement for carbon concrete applications, which was produced by means of an innovative textile manufacturing process based on the multiaxial warp knitting technology. Through the development of a customized warp insertion, manipulation and take-off system as well as appropriate shaping methods, it is now possible to produce tailored textile semi-finished products, e.g. for use in wall and ceiling panels. These textile latice girders represent a resource-saving alternative to conventional steel girders due to the reduced among of concrete required and the additional cavity for media and cable guidance.

The integration of textile actuators and sensors in FRP provides structures with additional functionalities. The research and application of such interactive FRP with different matrix materials (e.g. with thermoset, elastomer or concrete matrix systems) for structural health monitoring or adaptive systems is one of the key research areas of the ITM.

Moreover, the development and implementation of innovative yarn constructions based on recycled high-performance fibres (e.g. rCF, rGF, rAR) for sustainable FRPs is successfully promoted at ITM. By use of a special carding machine, recycled fibres are opened up, separated and joined to form a wide, uniform ribbon. Subsequently, innovative hybrid yarn constructions made of evenly mixed recycled high-performance and thermoplastic fibres with variable fibre volume fractions can be manufactured by means of various spinning technologies. Selected yarn constructions and components will be showcased at JEC.

Flat knitting solutions provider SHIMA SEIKI MFG., LTD. of Wakayama, Japan, together with its Brazilian representative BRASTEMA TECNOLOGIA TEXTIL LTDA., will participate in the FIMEC 2023 46th International Fair of Leather, Chemicals, Components, Machinery and Equipment for Footwear and Tanneries in Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil next month.

Working off the recent trend in knitted shoe uppers in the athletic footwear market, SHIMA SEIKI proposes knitted fabrics to the general footwear market as an alternative to leather. To that end SHIMA SEIKI will be showcasing the latest applications of computerized flat knitting technology to demonstrate its contributions in this field.

As pioneer of WHOLEGARMENT® knitting technology whereby the knitted product can be produced in one entire piece on the machine without linking or sewing, the company is showing the MACH2XS WHOLEGARMENT® knitting machine for the first time at FIMEC. MACH2XS features 4 needle beds and SHIMA SEIKI's original SlideNeedle™, capable of producing high-quality fine gauge WHOLEGARMENT® products in all needles. Proposals include WHOLEGARMENT® sportswear as well as seam-free shoe uppers. For conventional shaped knitting of shoe uppers, the SVR123SP machine features a loop presser bed that permits inlay technique for producing hybrid fabrics with both knit and weave characteristics, suited to shoe upper applications that require form-fitting function, comfort, flexibility, breathability as well as strength and stiffness. SVR123SP furthermore features i-Plating inverse-plating capability for increased patterning capability, including the production of jacquard-like patterns in light-weight plain jersey stitch. Also on show will be the compact SVR093 machine with a short knitting width intended for knitting shoe uppers. Both SVR machines feature such SHIMA SEIKI innovations as DSCS® Digital Stitch Control System, spring-type moveable sinker system, stitch presser, yarn gripper and cutter, and takedown comb. Made-in-Japan quality, reliability, productivity, user-friendliness and cost-performance all combine to satisfy the high expectations of the world's shoe industry.

SHIMA SEIKI’s SDS®-ONE APEX4 3D design system will also be available for demonstrations in design and simulation suited to shoe production. Of particular interest is its ultra-realistic simulation capability that realizes Virtual Sampling. When countless variations must be evaluated before arriving at a final design, virtual product samples can be used to streamline the decision-making process by minimizing the enormous amount of time and cost normally associated with producing actual samples for each variation. The sustainability factor is also undeniable.

Svegea of Sweden – a member of TMAS, the Swedish Textile Machinery Association – has recently installed an EC300-S collarette cutter for the high speed production of tubular apparel components as well as an FA350 automatic roll slitter at the plant of Löffler, in Ried im Innkreis, Austria.

The EC 300-S collarette cutter is equipped with the computer-controlled True-Drive II and high pre-feed device, which is used by garment manufacturers around the world for the production of tubular apparel components such as cuff and neck tapes and other seam reinforcements. It operates at speeds of up to 20,000 metres per hour. The integrated, fully automatic FA350 roll slitter FA500 roll slitter is equipped with three separately adjustable settings enabling three different band widths to be cut within the same cutting cycle. Automatic tube sewing units are provided for sewn tubes in optional rolled or flat folded forms, depending on customer preference.

Sports and knitwear specialist Löffler is celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2023. Its plant in Ried houses 25 circular knitting machines and three seamless knitting machines with an annual output of around 905,000 square metres of fabric, and in addition to product development, design, cutting and some sewing are all carried out in-house.

Löffler is known for its transtex under garments, which ushered in the two-layer principle of structures combining hydrophobic polypropylene and other fibres like cotton, Modal, Tencel or merino wool.

Before transtex, endurance athletes usually wore pure cotton underwear next to their skin, which became wet over time and cooled the body down. Löffler’s two-layer fabric prevented this, since the polypropylene does not absorb moisture and instead wicks it to the outside, where it can evaporate to keep the skin dry.

Innovation has been ongoing ever since, and in December, Löffler received an ISPO Award 2022 for transtex Retr’x – its latest functional underwear made from recycled polypropylene from textile waste and a combination of recycled and GOTS-certified organic cotton. Transtex Retr’x is neither dyed or bleached and is Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex as well as Made In Green by Oeko-Tex approved.

In addition to its own branded products, the plant makes sports garments for sister company Fischer, which is also based in Ried, and is at the same time involved in significant government tender projects, including the supply of polo shirts for the Austrian Red Cross and for the German and Austrian police forces. Combined, Löffler and Fischer employ approximately 700 people in the region of Upper Austria.

TEXCOM has recently started up two new BRÜCKNER POWER-FRAME stenters for knitted fabric with eight compartments and lubrication-free vertical chain and direct gas heating. This is already the 5th BRÜCKNER line purchased by TEXCOM and the successful continuation of the cooperation with BRÜCKNER since 1979. The third member of this successful alliance is the commercial agency, MAPEKO, which has been active for BRÜCKNER for several decades and in the 3rd generation.

With 3 production plants, a commercial office and 6 sales stores distributed around the country, TEXCOM manufactures and distributes knitted fabrics for a highly demanded market, where sports, technical, fashion and workwear fabrics stand out. The company's own developments, such as Twintex, Polisap, Neodry, Sense, Texcom antibacterial, among other brands, are perfect for sports and leisure due to their technical attributes. The company attaches great importance to the fact that all processed materials have the appropriate current environmental certificate (Öko Tex Standard 100, BlueSign and ZDHC)and efficient as well as responsible chemicals are used.

With more than 100 circular knitting machines and a wide range of possibilities for rotary printing, sublimation, lamination as well as special finishes such as antibacterial or hydrophilic, TEXCOM produces premium sports and leisure wear. This includes the official jersey of Argentina's national soccer team.