From the Sector

At the forthcoming Texprocess, Techtextil and Heimtextil shows taking place in Frankfurt from June 21-24 – members of the Swedish Textile Machinery Association TMAS will be showcasing a range of solutions aligning with the growing trend for more localised and automated textile manufacturing.

Digitalisation and the push for more sustainable, shorter and less expensive supply chains are currently making manufacturing in high-cost countries within Europe more attractive and there have been many other contributing factors to this over the past two years.

The Covid-19 pandemic exposed the vulnerability of many countries to shortages of essential items like PPE while at the same time making the full exploitation of new digital options essential during national lock-downs and long periods of restricted travel. The escalating cost of global transportation, as well as the growth of online retailing and the associated benefits of on-demand digital manufacturing, are further reinforcing the many benefits of short-run and near-shore new operations.

Secure supply
At Texprocess, for example, Eton Systems will be unveiling its latest Ingenious software solution which further enhances the company’s Opta Unit Production System (UPS) introduced in 2021.

“Our automated technology has already had a great impact on the productivity of thousands of garment production lines,” says Eton’s Managing Director Jerker Krabbe. “Our systems help producers across the world to reduce repetitive manual tasks and increase efficiency, which evens out some of the differences between production in high and low-cost countries, making reshoring a feasible option. Creating a diversified production portfolio with a mix of production facilities, some closer to home, makes for a more secure product supply.”

Flexibility
Imogo meanwhile recently installed the first industrial scale dyeing system in Sweden for many years. The Dye-Max spray dyeing line has the potential to slash the use of fresh water, wastewater, energy and chemicals by as much as 90% compared to conventional jet dyeing systems. It is capable of carrying out the application of a wide range of fabric pre-treatments and finishing processes, providing users with unbeatable flexibility in production.

“Here in Scandinavia, we are currently seeing an explosion of companies developing sustainable new cellulosic fibres – many from waste clothing – but a problem is that all of the environmental benefits they deliver can potentially be lost in the further processing, and especially in conventional dyeing,” observes the company’s Founding Partner Per Stenflo. “The Dye-Max system positively addresses this, but interest in it has not just been confined to Europe. We are currently seeing a lot of activity in Turkey – largely as a near-shore partner to European brands – but also in Bangladesh.”

Robotics at Heimtextil
ACG Kinna Automatic specialises in automation solutions for filled products such as quilts, pillows and mattresses and its live demonstrations of robotics in action have proved a magnet for visitors to Heimtextil. This year’s show will be no exception.

“The use of robotics is now standard across many industries dealing in solid goods, but the handling of soft materials such as textiles is a little more complex,” says Managing Director Christian Moore. “Nevertheless, it’s something we have successfully mastered, and our robotic systems are proving highly beneficial to their users. There is no ‘one-size-fits-all’ solution when it comes to automation and our approach is always to carefully examine where it will make the difference in each bespoke system. A focus is on identifying and eliminating bottlenecks which will increase product flows.”

During the Covid-19 pandemic, ACG Kinna drew on all of its automation know-how and extensive network of contacts to build a new nonwovens fabric converting and single-use garment making-up plant in a matter of weeks, in order to supply the Swedish authorities with urgently-needed medical gowns.

Instant colour
Localised textile production is also booming in the USA, where Coloreel has recently secured multiple orders for its instant thread colouration technology via its US partner Hirsch.

“Coloreel technology enables the high-quality and instant colouring of a textile thread while it is actually being used in production and can be paired with any existing embroidery machine without modification, while also making it possible to produce gradients in an embroidery for the first time,” explains VP of Sales Sven Öquist.

“Advanced rapid colour formulation software and high-speed drive technology allow a single needle to carry out what it previously required many multiples of them to do – and with much more consistent stitch quality. By instantly colouring a recycled white base thread during production, our system enables complete freedom to create unique embroideries without any limitations. Colour changes along the thread can either be made rapidly from one solid colour to another, or gradually, to make smooth transitions or any colouring effect desired. This provides big benefits when it comes to sustainability and design creativity.”

Milestone
Svegea will be promoting its latest EC 300 collarette cutting machine at Texprocess 2022. This machine is used by garment manufacturers around the world for the production of tubular apparel components such as waistbands, cuff and neck tapes and other seam reinforcements. With its E-Drive 2 system and fully automatic FA500 roll slitter, the EC 300 has an output of around 20,000 metres per hour.

“Advances in automation are only making the specialised, bespoke machines we engineer even more efficient and we are expecting a very busy year,” says Managing Director Håkan Steene. “The garment components our collarette cutters produce make it logical for them to be integrated into the operations of making-up operations, wherever they are.”

Sensors
The advanced yarn tension monitoring technologies of Eltex of Sweden meanwhile play an essential role in rectifying defects in  weaving, tufting and composite reinforcement operations.

“A correct tension of the warp and weft threads ensures proper machine operation,” explains Eltex Global Marketing and Sales Manager Anoop K. Sharma “The constant tension monitoring and automatic control of the tension of the thread help to overcome unnecessary problems.

“We continue to make advances in both the hardware and software of our tension monitoring systems, such as the EyE™ for the warping process. With the EyE™, the yarn tension values from all yarns are continuously updated and displayed on screen. In addition, tension values outside the warning level are indicated both on the sensor’s LEDs and on the screen for complete quality control. No fabric can be woven without the appropriate and correct tension.”

• The vaccine pass will no longer be required for your fair
• March 24 – 28, ­­­­­2022   Paris ­­­­­­­

The French government has announced the suspension of the vaccine pass starting on March 14, in addition to the end of the mask requirement indoors (except for on public transport).Only one requirement remains...as always, you must have your badge with you to enter the fair.

So don’t wait: get ready for your visit to the fair, and prepare to rediscover the joy of spotting the season’s future must-have products.

Dilo, a leading equipment supplier of complete lines for staple fibre nonwoven fabric production, will exhibit at IDEA 2022 in Miami, end of March.
 
The most recent machine concepts from DiloGroup companies DiloTemafa, DiloSpinnbau and DiloMachines will be promoted with the emphasis on new equipment components which improve product quality, increase line capacity and also enable new opportunities in nonwoven production.
 
DiloTemafa will promote the improved bale opener series “Baltromix Pro” with design features for the operating assistance with the I4.0 components “Bale Timer”, cleaning control, better accessibility for maintenance and the “DI-LOWATT” system for energy savings in fibre transport. The proven carding willow with modified workers and separate drives to create the prerequisites for a good fine opening will also be part of the presentation as well as the fine opening stage which may be installed over the material box of the new card feeder FRS-P to achieve a high dosing accuracy in cross and longitudinal direction.  
 
DiloSpinnbau has a new “Unifeed” card feeder (VRS-P) which combines the principle of volumetric charged feeding with the characteristics of a chute feeder but without the conventional overhead trunk which allows for lower ceiling height requirement. The fibre flock matt is condensed by a vacuum delivery apron to give better uniformity of mass distribution. The distribution over the working width is controlled by additional flaps. This feeder can be adapted for medium/fine, coarse/medium or long staple fibres.
 
The “VectorQuadroCard” by DiloSpinnbau incorporates a modular transfer group between breast and main section. The quick change facility of this roller group provides different carding options. The delivery system is also flexible to provide parallel laid, random or condensed web. The preopener section on this card has 4 worker/stripper pairs with five pairs on the main cylinder. Emphasis is on high throughput with good web quality.
 
The revised HyperLayer NT offered by DiloMachines presents the latest state-of-the-art highspeed precision layering technique setting new standards which play an important role especially in hydroentanglement lines. In this application, it is important to achieve layering speeds up to 190 m/minute using sophisticated viscose fibres and a layering width of about 4 m while at the same time having a high layering precision in cross and longitudinal direction.  
 
DiloMachines will also present its portfolio to improve quality and reduce costs. The FutureLine study “3D-Lofter” – first presented at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona – is part of this programme. In this study individual web forming units can deposit fibre masses on freely programmable spots in longitudinal and cross direction thus saving overall fibre mass in applications such as deep moulded parts for the automotive interior. This ability reduces costs in production and operation. The “IsoFeed” concept for a more even flock mat for direct cards and aerodynamic web forming is another interesting field of web mat quality improvement.

Global Fashion Summit, an international forum for sustainability in fashion, will convene core stakeholders across fashion, parallel industries, investment, policy and NGOs to forge alliances for a new era. The Summit is presented by Global Fashion Agenda, the non-profit organisation that fosters industry collaboration in fashion to drive impact, under the patronage of HRH The Crown Princess of Denmark. Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2022, will return in physical form on 7-8 June in the Royal Opera House, Copenhagen, Denmark.

Formerly known as Copenhagen Fashion Summit, the forum has been renamed to manifest the organisation’s global outlook and reach. Global Fashion Summit will build on the 13-year history of the renowned Copenhagen Fashion Summit by strengthening its representation and connections with diverse perspectives from across the world. Therefore, the Summit will be hosted in various key cities in the future, in addition to its flagship edition in Copenhagen.
 
Under the theme ‘Alliances for a New Era’, Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2022 will endeavour to form previously inconceivable alliances within the fashion industry and examine atypical cross-industry alliances, in a bid to accelerate the transition to a net positive reality.
 
The theme will underly all elements of the Summit. It will be represented on the Summit main stage during plenary sessions consisting of high-level keynote speeches and panels. These will bring together speakers that are often perceived as direct competitors to have transparent conversations about their mutual challenges and collaborate to discuss the actions needed to tackle the urgent issues. The programme will also include industries such as transportation, food and energy, to consider the challenges that are similarly experienced in other sectors and learn from successful solutions that are being demonstrated outside of fashion.
 
Going beyond the stage content, the Summit will apply the theme in practical terms by mobilising leaders to implement immediate actions through newly formed partnerships with solution providers and other industry players, setting long-term industry commitments, hosting leadership roundtables and creating binding industry agreements that will provoke progress based on its sustainability performance level.
The Innovation Forum will present a curated exhibition of sustainable solutions. Participating brands will be able to connect with exhibitors covering the entire value chain – from innovative materials to on-demand manufacturing. The forum’s Matchmaking service will offer small and large fashion businesses the opportunity to advance their sustainability journey by being matched directly with relevant solution providers.
There will be an in-depth assessment of the impact that the Summit and its resulting alliances have on the industry. This will be published in the aftermath of the event, examining the concrete outcomes from the Summit and providing a baseline for future forums.

• Looking to the future – Frankfurt Fashion Week is positioning itself with a consistently sustainable agenda and propelling the transformation of a modern, resource-efficient fashion industry.

The Conscious Fashion Campaign (CFC), working in collaboration with the United Nations Office for Partnerships (UNOP), will be the presenting partner and the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) will be a prerequisite for all exhibitors by 2023. And the Frankfurt Fashion SDG Summit by CFC is set to become the leading international conference for sustainability in the fashion world. The future of fashion has begun – and its key players will be coming together in Frankfurt am Main from 5-9 July 2021.
 
Frankfurt am Main, 2 December 2020. Joining forces to improve the fashion industry: Frankfurt Fashion Week is positioning itself as the host of the future of fashion and actively driving forward the transformation towards a future-oriented, more sustainable fashion and textile industry. All decision-makers looking to instigate this change will be coming together in Frankfurt am Main from 5-9 July 2021. The initiators of Frankfurt Fashion Week – Messe Frankfurt and the Premium Group – have achieved a real coup: Conscious Fashion Campaign, working in collaboration with the United Nations Office for Partnerships, will be the presenting partner. Messe Frankfurt will build on its collaboration with the United Nations Office for Partnerships and establish Frankfurt Fashion week as the platform on which to advance the Sustainable Development Goals and help guide the fashion industry into the 'Decade of Action'.
 
“Frankfurt will play host to the whole world. We are seeing a very positive response indeed,” confirmed Peter Feldmann, Senior Mayor of the City of Frankfurt am Main, at today’s digital press conference, before going on to say: “The fact that the initiators are able to rethink the concept of a Fashion Week in such a way is extremely impressive and proves that the fashion industry is correctly interpreting the signs of the present and future. The time has come for value creation and values to be reconciled. Consistent alignment with the Sustainable Development Goals is an important step in this direction.”
 
“Frankfurt Fashion Week aims to play a crucial role in finding solutions for macrosocial challenges and supporting the goals of international politics such as the European Green Deal. The fashion and textile industries are also expected to be climate-neutral by 2050. If we want to achieve this, we all need to pull together. Frankfurt Fashion Week is inviting all initiators and supporters of sustainable concepts and congresses or shows dedicated to sustainability to meet in Frankfurt, partake in discussions and make tangible decisions for the greater good. We will connect the most relevant players and pave the way for a future-proof fashion and textile industry,” says Detlef Braun, CEO of Messe Frankfurt.
 
“Given its global reach, the fashion industry is uniquely positioned to collaborate and engage on the Sustainable Development Goals, in particular on climate action and responsible production and consumption,” said Annemarie Hou, Acting Executive Director of the United Nations Office for Partnerships. “Frankfurt Fashion Week and the Summit will serve as an important platform for education and engagement of the fashion and textile industry in the Decade of Action,” emphasised Ms Hou.
 
The aim of Frankfurt Fashion Week is for all exhibitors, participants and partners to align with the Sustainable Development Goals by 2023. The SDGs will also be incorporated into all formats of Frankfurt Fashion Week. This will help to make the UN’s sustainability goals visible and tangible for the Fashion Week audience, therefore bringing its claim, goals and specific proposals for implementation to an international opinion-forming fashion and lifestyle community. During a one-day Frankfurt Fashion SDG Summit presented by Conscious Fashion Campaign, topics like gender equality, clean water, climate protection, social justice and their significance for a forward-looking fashion industry will be examined in greater depth. Another point on the sustainability agenda: Frankfurt Fashion Week is launching a Sustainability Award for outstanding, innovative, sustainable design, alongside other categories with a global appeal for the fashion and textile industry.
 
"We are committed to setting the wheels of transformation in motion. Not only does the overall mindset have to fundamentally change; the entire industry also needs to have the courage to be transparent and honest. It’s important to see values and value creation as opportunities rather than contentious. We are doing what we do best: connecting the relevant players at all levels. With its ecosystem, Frankfurt Fashion Week will become the enabler. We are creating a platform that will orchestrate industry-wide change. With this as our inspiration, we are also developing our tradeshow formats from a ‘marketplace of products’ to a ‘marketplace of purpose and ideas’,” explains Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner of the Premium Group.
 
A new start in Frankfurt: In summer 2021 the entire fashion industry will be coming to the metropolis on the Main river to inform themselves, be inspired, discuss, negotiate and celebrate. “There’s a huge need to finally meet in person again, to exchange ideas and be inspired. At the same time, digital tools and formats have become an integral part of the fashion industry,” says Markus Frank, Head of the City of Frankfurt’s Department of Economic Affairs and therefore also responsible for its creative industry. “To implement such a future-oriented, all-encompassing overall concept, Frankfurt’s business and creative scenes offer an almost unique concentration of different expertise with its internationally networked agencies, universities and museums. The city’s multifaceted, high-end club, bar and restaurant scene, diverse hotel industry and internationally renowned retail landscape will become the stage for this. This network will be a key factor in the successful implementation of Frankfurt Fashion Week and the way in which it will expand into the public space as a cultural and social happening.”
 
A number of major publishing houses are also showing their commitment to the new Fashion Week in Frankfurt with conferences, events and awards: Textilwirtschaft, the leading professional fashion journal by the Deutscher Fachverlag publishing house, is moving its traditional meeting of the industry’s top decision-makers – the TW Forum, the presentation of the renowned Forum Award, as well as its subsequent conference – from Heidelberg to Frankfurt’s Palmengarten botanical gardens, and will therefore be kicking off Frankfurt Fashion Week on Sunday evening and Monday morning. The Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung will be hosting its traditional fashion party for the first time in Frankfurt and publishing a special edition of its FAZ Magazin on Frankfurt Fashion Week. And the ZEIT publishing group is holding its ‘UNLOCK Style by ZEITmagazin’ conference, which was established in 2014, and the ZEITmagazin Fashion Week party in Frankfurt for the first time and will dedicate the whole new issue of ZEITmagazin Frankfurt to Frankfurt Fashion Week. Condé Nast will also be involved in next summer’s Frankfurt Fashion Week with an exclusive event by GQ. And the Burda publishing house will also be represented with various event formats from its lifestyle and fashion brands.There will also be talks with SHINE  Conventions, the organiser of GLOW, about what a mutual collaboration could look like.
 
Frankfurt Fashion Week is also delighted to have the Fashion Council Germany (FCG) on board.  The FCG is theinstitution when it comes to German fashion design. It promotes designers, is committed to gaining more political relevance and strengthens the international visibility and awareness of German fashion. At Frankfurt Fashion Week, the FCG will contribute selected formats, such as its already established Fireside Chat, and a future-oriented accelerator format to support German designers.
 
“What really impresses me about Fashion Week is the whole networking aspect: the creative industries will meet the financial world and sustainability is the common denominator. The Green Finance Cluster is another project that we could link with Frankfurt Fashion Week in the future. This will provide new inspiration in the fashion industry, which will certainly extend way beyond its own horizon of Frankfurt and Hesse. After a very difficult year for the trade fair industry, the concept is an encouraging breath of fresh air,” sums up Tarek Al-Wazir, Hesse’s Minister of Economics, Energy, Transport and Regional Development and Deputy Minister-President of the state of Hessen.

Trevira will be joining the first BCFA Open Berlin pop-up exhibition, which will be held at the British Embassy on 6 May at the same time of Berlin Design Week (4 – 10 May 2020). The one-day fair is being organised by the British Contract Furnishing Association (BCFA), and members of the association will have the opportunity to display their products in the atrium of the post-modern embassy building.  

At the exhibition, specially invited interior designers and furnishers, along with purchasers from the contract market, will be able to find out more about the collections and products of high-end British manufacturers and textile houses, and attend interesting talks by two top specialists of the sector.

Trevira will be showing a selection of Trevira CS fabrics which were on display earlier this year at the Heimtextil 2020, where they featured in the special exhibition ‘Textile Future by Trevira CS’. These fabrics are permanently flame retardant and can be deployed in a wide range of applications, as Berlin design company studio aisslinger impressively showed in the exhibition at the Trevira stand. For the Heimtextil fair, the prestigious studio aisslinger design team worked together with Trevira, creating a concept that revealed just how attractive and playful Trevira CS fabrics can be in a variety of settings on the contract market, including hospitality, healthcare, workspaces, public spaces and transport.

Designers and architects who are interested in taking part in the event are welcome to register their details with Trevira.

Domotex, the world's largest trade fair for floor coverings, will take place in Hanover from 10 to 13 January 2020. Saurer Twisting Solutions is looking forward to welcoming customers and visitors at their Booth B35 in Hall 11.

Automation solutions made to measure for processing BCF yarns
At Domotex, Saurer Twisting Solutions will present customer-optimised solutions for process automation and product cost reduction. Automation of the material transport systems offers significant customer benefits. This is because these systems are individually adapted to the needs of clients and enable an optimum material flow throughout the entire twisting mill.

Easier and faster with new machine generation
Amongst other things, the new carpet yarn machine, the CarpetCabler CarpetTwister 1.10 and the automated guided vehicle PackDrive will be presented.

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today announced that the company is joining the One Young World global movement and sending its first ever delegates to the Annual Summit which will take place in London, UK, from 22 to 25 October 2019.

The annual One Young World Summit convenes 2000+ bright young leaders from 190+ countries, working to accelerate social impact. At the Summit, delegates are counselled by influential political, business and humanitarian leaders such as Justin Trudeau, Paul Polman and Meghan Markle, amongst many other global figures.

The 3 Archroma delegates to the One Young World Summit 2019:

• Jane Zhu: Jane Zhu is a logistic specialist with more than 4 years of experience in customs clearance and transportation of goods.
• Raul Padilla: Raul Padilla is currently a sales manager for textile process chemicals and new markets, at Archroma in the US.
• Till Felippi: Till Felippi is a young digital business specialist with more than 10 years of experience and diverse know-how in communications, online marketing and web development.

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, will be at ITMA to launch its latest innovations and system solutions aimed to help textile manufacturers with optimized productivity and/or value creation in their markets.

Archroma offers a wide portfolio of dyes and chemicals aiming to increase sustainability and innovation along the entire value chain, from fiber to finish.

Archroma is reputed for its continuous flow of ground-breaking innovations, such as the EarthColors®, a range of dyes made from non-edible natural waste from the agricultural and herbal industry, Inkpresso®, a digital printing system that enables ink mixing on site and on demand, Smartrepel® Hydro, a nature-friendlier protection that keeps cotton, polyester and polyamide textiles dry, the Color Atlas, a revolutionary color system comprising of a physical and online library of 4,320 new colors developed on cotton poplin.

More recently, Archroma introduced the purest indigo, Denisol® Pure Indigo, an aniline-free* synthetic pre-reduced liquid indigo launched in 2018, Appretan® NTR, a new nature-based binder for nonwovens, and Fadex® AS New, a new “super UV protector” for automotive & transportation textiles, both introduced in May 2019.

At ITMA, Archroma will present 24 solution systems and 5 innovations, and will hold “Innovation & Solutions Sessions” at its booth to present them.

The systems and innovations presented by Archroma have all been selected for their compliance with “The Archroma Way: safe, efficient, enhanced, it’s our nature”. The approach finds its origin in Archroma’s deep belief that it is possible to make the textile industry sustainable.

With over 5,000 tailored installations for a range of industries installed in over 60 countries, Eton Systems, headquartered in Gånghester, Sweden, has established a reputation as a clear leader in the field of complete material handling systems.

At ITMA 2019 in Barcelona from June 20-26th, the company will be demonstrating a complete installation based on a future production concept, with advanced software providing real-time information covering every aspect of the process.

“Our systems are a natural fit with the major Industry 4.0 networked manufacturing plants that are now being constructed worldwide for sectors such as the garment and home textiles manufacturing and automotive industries,” says Eton’s Sales and Commercial Director Roger Ryrlén. “We have had a very busy last 12 months, with more major projects in the pipeline. We understand, however, that one solution does not fit all situations, which is why we think in terms of custom-made solutions matched to specific customer needs. Buying a system from us, is buying a solution and a partnership. Each system includes support, service, training and knowledge built on more than 70 years of experience. When a customer invests in an Eton System the increased efficiency normally results in savings of between 40-60%.”

A typical system consists of overhead conveyors with individually-addressable product carriers which automatically steer their way through programmed operation sequences. They are monitored by a computer providing all the necessary data for optimally measuring and managing processes. The systems are also highly flexible and can be rapidly modified to changes in the production line or the need for expansion.

Options for smart factories
Eton’s Flexible Productivity Concept (FPC) is based on two system platforms with a wide range of options, including:

• Multiple rails for sorting at workstations.
• Buffering
• Automatic loading devices, pick-ups and work delivery robots.
• Bridges and elevators that link systems and floors.
• Historical links to products after completion.
• Module-based software.

Via an addressable product carrier, an Eton system transports all the components of a complete product through the manufacturing process.

Eton Systems will be at stand A214, in Hall 2 at the Barcelona exhibition.