From the Sector

At ITMA 2019 in Barcelona from June 20-26th, Goller will introduce the new Knit Merc for achieving the highest quality mercerization of knitted fabrics at the lowest tension and with under 3% variation in dimensional stability with high grade fabrics, for perfect dyeing results every time.

Mercerization is an essential textile finishing step for all cotton and cellulosic fibre-based fabrics in order to improve dye uptake and tear strength while reducing fabric shrinkage and imparting a silk-like lustre to the materials.

The Knit Merc is the result of intensive R&D developments at Goller and follows the successful introduction to the market of the company’s Sintensa Cyclone drum washing compartments for achieving the highest washing efficiency at the lowest tension.

The Knit Merc being exhibited at ITMA 2019 can accommodate 8.4 metres of fabric in its impregnation compartment and a further four metres in its first chain section to achieve a production speed of 25m/min at 30 seconds dipping time.

It is designed for dry-on-wet mercerizing, either cold or hot, and is equipped with an inlet combination of scroll and slat rollers for fabric guidance, a Tandematic uncurler in front of a rubberized de-airing roller and a grooved 320mm bottom roller with 320mm and 600mm perforated upper drums.

It benefits from automatic tension regulation and the low liquor content is ensured by the integrated lye tank and automatic circulation and filtration units.

An 8-ton high efficiency squeezer is stationed at the exit before the chain section and a 5-ton squeezer at the exit of the chain field.

Further fabric control and stability is provided by a cast iron pin chain with automatic optical and mechanical sensors, the Tandematic uncurler, an overfeed device and a driven belt arrangement for fabric support.

A focus on customer service, aligned with the drive to constantly innovate, has long ensured that the member companies of TMAS – the Swedish texile machinery manufacturers’ association – stay well ahead of the curve.

“All of the Swedish textile machinery companies are doing really well in major markets such as Europe, China, India and the USA,” says TMAS Secretary General Therese Premler-Andersson. “They are now gathering forces to prepare for the most important show – ITMA 2019 in Barcelona in June. I expect to see new players and partnerships as we enter the industry 4.0 era for real. We are ready to display an even higher degree of the real time monitoring of processes, automation, flexible customisation, and the incorporation of robots into production lines.  Our customers expect a lot of in terms of knowledge and our ability to customise and offer turnkey solutions.”

The forward-looking attitude of the Swedish companies is perhaps best summed up by Reimar Westerlind, the owner, since 1961, of ACG Gruppen.
At the age of 90, Reimar still travels to his office every day to oversee the operations of the diverse companies operating under the ACG umbrella.
“Everything now is about automation and digitisation,” he says. “We have to be on that track or we will be lost – innovate or die.”

Robotics
One ACG Gruppen company moving rapidly forward with new innovations in this area is ACG Kinna, which at ITMA 2019 will be providing dramatic live demonstrations of its new robotic pillow filling system.
This has the ability to fill and finish some 3,840 pillows per eight-hour shift, which is a considerable improvement on what is currently possible with existing systems, resulting in significant savings in both labour and energy for busy home textile businesses.

At ITMA 2019, Eton will be demonstrating a complete material handling solution with advanced software providing real-time information covering every aspect of the process.
“Our systems are a natural fit with the major Industry 4.0 networked manufacturing plants that are now being constructed worldwide for sectors such as the garment and home textiles manufacturing and automotive industries,” says Eton’s Sales and Commercial Director Roger Ryrlén.

Sensors
Advanced senor developments are playing a large part in moving many areas of the textile industry forward too.
Eltex of Sweden, for example, is achieving considerable success with its yarn fault detection and tension monitoring systems across a range of sectors, including the tufting of carpets, the creeling of woven materials and even the production of woven reinforcements for the composites industry.

At successive ITMA shows, IRO AB has also consistently introduced new milestones in the field of yarn feeding technology for weaving machines, and ITMA 2019 will be no exception.
“Following significant investment in our R&D capabilities, we have been making great progress in further boosting the efficiency and performance of our expanding X3 range,” says IRO AB Managing Director and Chairman of TMAS Mikael Äremann. “I can’t remember a time since the 1980s when we had so many new innovations to unveil at an ITMA, and I’m greatly looking forward to the positive response to them we are anticipating in Barcelona this June.”

Resource savings
ITMA 2019 will meanwhile see the launch of TexCoat G4 – the next generation of Baldwin Technology’s non-contact precision application system for fabric finishing. The TexCoat G4 enables a continuously high-quality and productive textile finishing process with zero chemistry waste and minimised water and energy consumption.
The non-contact spray technology brings a range of advantages including single or double-sided application,  the elimination of Foulard bath contamination, low wet pick-up levels leading to the elimination of drying steps, zero chemistry waste in changeovers of chemistry, colour or fabric, and the possibility of batch reporting, visibility of pad loading, chemical usage etc.

Other TMAS companies exhibiting in Barcelona include Texo AB, whose wide-width weaving looms make the belts for machines on which half of the world’s paper is made, ES-Automatex, which specialises in bespoke automation concepts and Svegea, a company leading the field in a number colarette machines and cutting and slitting equipment.

“At the last ITMA in 2015 in Milan, there was much talk about Industry 4.0 technologies but certainly from the perspective of TMAS, ITMA 2019 will be the place for concrete solutions as to how data and the new tools we have available can be exploited to the full,” says Therese Premler-Andersson. “There is already much more networking between the companies, with software very much the enabler and common interfaces bringing ideas closer together. We are greatly looking forward to further exchanges of ideas when meeting with customers old and new in Barcelona.”

RONSE, Belgium - Textile finishing expert, Devan Chemicals, launched its brand-new, patent-pending Moov&Cool technology at Performance Days (18-19 April) in Munich. Detailed as a 'cool comfort technology', the innovation has the potential to improve the athletic performances of both amateurs and professionals alike by regulating core body temperature.

Moov&Cool, Devan’s latest textile finish, consists of a multi-functional polymer technology that absorbs heat during performance and improves the moisture management properties of the fabric. Applied by either padding or spray, the treatment targets and regulates core body temperature and simultaneously reacts to sweat build up and heat emission.

Devan’s technology has been brought to life in an effort to boost the performances of athletes. The company collaborated with the University of Leuven (Belgium) and the Bakala Academy to evaluate and prove the finishing technology. According to Devan, the first results look promising as they have seen an effect on heart rate and lactate levels. Furthermore, the first test results also highlighted a decrease in core temperature of around 0.4°C.

Devan will continue testing in order to evaluate the impact of Moov&Cool when applied to different fibre types and fabric structures. The company aims to provide different application levels to optimise the benefits of the technology for individual sporting activities where performance intensity may play a major role in the protection required.

• Sustainable Precision Application Technology product for textile finishing boosts quality and productivity

Baldwin Technology Company Inc. is pleased to showcase the TexCoat G3 for the first time in Turkey during the ITM tradeshow, held in Istanbul from April 14 to 17, 2018.

This groundbreaking Precision Application Technology product—which will be demonstrated in hall 12 at booth 1213—enables a sustainable textil eand nonwoven finishing process, with low energy consumption, reduced water and chemistry waste, and substantialsavings of production time and costs. Launched in 2017, the innovative TexCoat G3 already has been installed at major textile finishing facilities worldwide, with proven positive results, including:

• Reduced water and chemistry usage, up to 50 percent
• Reduced total changeover time, up to 85 percent
• Reduced chemistry waste, up to 95 percent

“We are immensely proud to showcase the TexCoat G3 in Turkey, one of the leading markets for innovation and productivity in the textile industry,” said Simone Morellini, Baldwin Sales Manager-EMEAR. “We see great potential for our Precision Application Technology products in this region, and our goal is to help customers improve productivity, while saving valuable resources and contributing to a sustainable future.”
Baldwin’s Precision Application Technology product line provides customers with more flexibility, fewer production steps and increased uptime. With individual nozzle control and automatic volume adjustment, the TexCoat G3 ensuresprecise and uniform application in various process conditions and capacities.
Adjustments can be set in relation to cloth width, g/m2 and textile characteristics, allowing for complete control of the amount of water and chemistry applied.

Furthermore, the TexCoat G3 is versatile, managing a wide range of low-viscosity chemistries—such as water-repellent, softener and anti-microbial finishing—as well as single- and dual-sided applications, various textile characteristics and wet-on-wet applications.
Plus, it significantly reduces changeover times to less than five minutes, thanks to fully automatic flushing, and its mist containment covers encapsulate and prevent aerosols from escaping, securing a healthy working environment.

Leading apparel producer HanesBrands recently invested in 19 TexCoat G3 systems from Baldwin. “We have had outstanding results in productivity increase, and we can clearly see that this technology will make a great contribution to our future efficiency and sustainability savings,” said Mike Abbott, HanesBrands Global Director of Research and Innovation.

Spot Ltd., under the leadership of Cengiz Kahraman, has been representing Baldwin’s Precision Application Technology product line for the textile market in Turkey since 2016. The two companies collaborate closely and are committed to revolutionizing the textile finishing industry.

The acquisition is the fifth strategic deal finalized by Imprima Spa , holding controlled by the Italian private equity fund Wisequity IV.

IMPRIMA S.p.A., the holding company of the multinational group dedicated to textile printing and finishing, announces the acquisition of City Prints and the twin company Premier Fabrics, both American companies specialised in printed textiles. 

Imprima, controlled by Wise SGR through the Italian private equity fund Wisequity, now strengthens its strategic positioning, consolidating its global presence as a leading player in the field of printing and textile finishing for international retailers and fashion brands.

City Prints and Premier Fabrics, founded in 1997 and headquartered in New York and Los Angeles, are specialized in textile printing for the programmed collection market. The companies supply printed fabrics, based on proprietary design, to major American retailers such as Walmart, Target and Macy's, to  fashion brands such as Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger, and to online retailers such as Amazon. The companies serve retailers and brands through leading private label intermediaries, currently sourcing prints and garments mainly from China.  

As in the case of the previous acquisitions, the brothers Jason and Ryan Borg, co-founders of City Prints and Premier Fabrics, will maintain a leadership role in the management of the companies and become shareholders of IMPRIMA. 

 "Our entry into the IMPRIMA group is an excellent opportunity to consolidate and increase our commercial positioning in the market, through the introduction of IMPRIMA Group’s brands in the US market and the opening of a digital production facility within the US territory, relying on the technology know-how in digital printing and the financial support that IMPRIMA provides", said Jason and Ryan Borg co-owners of City Prints and Premier Fabrics, which currently show a consolidated turnover of over 23 million dollars.

“With this acquisition, IMPRIMA deals with the US market with the goal of becoming the first textile converter with full digital printing capability in this local market.  The current deep crisis of American apparel retailers is pushing the industry to reshape its current supply chain strategy, mainly based on sourcing from Far East, towards a European-like fast fashion model. IMPRIMA, through City Prints and Premier Fabrics, will allow local retailers to leverage the "Made in USA" banner to deliver a great creative experience through a local, reliable partner.", said President Valentina Franceschini, and Executive V.P. Gianluca Boni.

This acquisition of the US companies follows the recent acquisition of the Italian print converters SET, Guarisco and B-Blossom and of the German print converter KBC.