From the Sector

• Responsible RF (Residual Free) line from ROICA™ V550 by Asahi Kasei

Innova Fabrics, the Italian manufacturer of knitted fabrics for apparel, underwear and sports, confirms its choice of ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, the Japanese leader of premium stretch fiber, for its new responsible line RF (Residual Free).

Despite the deep-rooted history of the company's team in the world of textiles, Innova Fabrics is a reality that is not afraid to innovate with a focus on environmental sustainability. As a result of its push for local production and attention to third-party sustainability certifications (including OEKO-TEX Standard 100, one of the world's best-known labels for textiles tested for harmful substances), Innova Fabrics continues its promise of responsibility with an enrichment of its conscious proposals.

In the last season, Innova has increased its smart proposition by launching the RF (Residual Free) line, with the aim of reducing the impact of microplastics residues produced by the fashion industry. This is possible thanks to the combination of two responsible ingredients: SENSIL® Biocare by Nilit and ROICA™ V550 by Asahi Kasei.SENSIL® BioCare is the premium, sustainable nylon 6.6 fiber enriched with a special technology that helps reduce the persistence of textile waste in the ocean and landfills by acting during and after the product's life cycle. Therefore, if the microplastics in SENSIL® BioCare garments are released during washing, they will decompose much faster than conventional Nylon 6.6 fibers, reducing textile waste.

ROICA™ V550, part of the ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, is the premium, sustainable stretch yarn that degrades without releasing harmful substances into the environment, according to the Hohenstein's environmental certification. ROICA™ V550 also carries the Gold Level Material Health certificate from the Cradle-to-Cradle Product Innovation Institute, which evaluated the yarn's impact on human and environmental health.

The strong relationship established between Innova Fabrics and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei is a long-standing one: from the very beginning, the textile company chose ROICA™ as its main reference for premium stretch, using ROICA Colour Perfect™ in most of its articles. Having experienced the innovation of the ROICA™ line dedicated to high-quality color, Innova decided to opt for the ROICA Eco-Smart™ line as part of the extension of its environmentally conscious line.

A new interview study from NGO ChemSec shows that there is a gap between supply and demand when it comes to recycled materials, causing confusion and bottlenecks. Among other things, suppliers go out of their way using elaborate trade schemes to reach the coveted ”100% recycled” tag, which – it turns out – is not that important to consumer product brands. Far more crucial aspects, according to several major B2C companies, are:

• Honest communication towards customers
• Comprehensive information from suppliers
• Clear standards for recycled material

These are some of the conclusions from NGO ChemSec’s survey and interview study with 26 highly well-known consumer product brands. All brands responded to a survey concerning their current plastic use, as well as their needs, expectations and challenges regarding using more recycled material, to enable the shift to a circular economy for plastics.

Ten of the brands then participated in in-depth interviews on the same topics:, Essity, H&M, IKEA, Inditex , Lego, Mars,  SC Johnson, Tarkett, Unilever and Walgreens Boots Alliance.

Is non-mechanical recycling the answer?
Only about ten percent of all discarded plastics is recycled today, which is of course not nearly enough to achieve a circular plastics economy. Despite ambitions and initiatives to reduce plastics use – replacing the materials with other, more sustainable ones – the “plastic tap” is not expected to be turned off anytime soon. Quite the opposite, which makes raising the recycling rates more important than ever.

Although commercially viable, traditional (mechanical) recycling is afflicted with severe flaws, such as legacy chemicals, quality and functionality issues, as well as the lack of clean and sorted waste streams. The brands cited quality and functionality issues as the main obstacles for using more recycled material in their products.

This opens up for non-mechanical recycling, sometimes referred to as chemical recycling, where the plastic is either dissolved or broken down into smaller building blocks. Harmful additives and other hazardous chemicals can be removed in the process, and a material comparable to virgin plastic can be achieved – at least in theory.

So far, however, non-mechanical recycling technologies are costly, energy-intensive, and often require the addition of a great deal of virgin plastic to work – the very material that needs to be phased out.

The chain of custody models needs to be detangled
Apart from these production issues, there is a wide range of chain of custody models surrounding non-mechanical recycling, including mass balance and book & claim, which enable trade of credits or certificates for recycled material.

This cuts the physical connection between input and output, making it possible for a supplier to sell a material as “100% recycled”, when the actual recycled content could be zero.

This is a major issue for the brands ChemSec has spoken to, who value honest and correct communication towards customers. It turns out, perhaps somewhat surprisingly, that being able to slap a “made from 100% recycled plastic” label on a product is not all that important to brands.

To the brands, a physical connection between input (the discarded plastic waste headed for recycling) and output (the product at least partially made from recycled plastics) is far more important.

A physical connection, along with correct and adequate information from suppliers, as well as clearer standards and guidelines than what is available today, is what brands require to increase the use of recycled material and move us closer to a circular economy for plastics.

Tata Communications, a global digital ecosystem enabler, announces its financial results for the quarter and full year ended 31st March 2022.

Consolidated financial highlights:

• Consolidated revenue for FY22 came in at INR 16,725 Crores (USD 2,244.9 Mn) and at INR 4,263 Crores (USD 567.0 Mn) for Q4 FY22
• Most of the segments across Core Connectivity, Digital Platforms & Services, and Incubation services of Data business witnessed healthy growth:
  • Data business grew by 2.1% QoQ and 1.4% YoY
  • Within Digital Platforms, all segments except Collaboration witnessed double digit YoY growth and strong sequential growth
  • Core Connectivity witnessed a revenue growth of +0.5% QoQ and +1.4% YoY
  • Incubation portfolio grew by 49.1% QoQ and 67.6% YoY
• Consolidated EBITDA stood at INR 4,227 Crores (USD 567.3 Mn); with margins in at 25.3%, expanding by 40 Bps YoY. For the quarter, margin came in at 24.5%
• Consolidated PAT stood at INR 1,482 Crores (USD 198.9 Mn) as compared to a profit of INR 1,251 Crores (USD 168.4 Mn) in FY21, registering a growth of + 18.5% YoY
• CAPEX for this year was INR 1,608 Crores (USD 216.9 Mn) as compared to INR 1,421 Crores (USD 191.4 Mn) in FY21; Free Cash Flow for FY22 was at INR 2,619 Crores (USD 345.6 Mn)

The Board has recommended a dividend of INR 20.7 per share as a result of the Company reporting strong profitability.

On the 25th of March ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei invited its strategic European partners to the Triennale Design Museum for the first ROICA™ Summit, with the aim of sharing its global strategy and to consolidate relationships that are key to the Asahi Kasei global vision of its fiber and business.

Among the speakers Senior Executive Manager Mr. Shinichiro Haga and its successor Mr. Takehiro Kamiyama, who will take on the new role after more than thirty years in the Asahi Kasei Corporation and more than three years at ROICA™. Together they opened the floor by explaining the ROICA™ business strategy, which is based on three main steps:

1. Continue to speed up ROICA™ responsible innovation  
2. Continue to speed up ROICA™ international partnerships with a strong focus on responsible innovation
3. Continue to push a new generation of communication where its story making will align with an authentic and consumer driven storytelling based on values.

Then, Mr. Shinohe Hiroaki Chief Marketing Officer Europe, introduced the new production strategy at global level  together with  its program of partnerships, plus the marketing and communication programs for the next year and beyond in synergy with Giusy Bettoni at C.L.A.S.S.

“We are extremely pleased to be here with our European partners, thanking them for the continuous valuable cooperations that made ROICA™ so special, and sharing with them which will be our next steps in order to be leading responsible innovation. This is a very precious moment, during which we are able to talk face to face and install long-lasting relationships, with the aim of supporting the apparel industry by making premium stretch becoming a key player for wellbeing values, which are extremely precious for the contemporary consumer. And this will be part of sport, lingerie, hosiery , fashion and swimwear wardrobes thanks to the ROICA™ special new generation of premium stretch innovations” affirms Shinohe Hiroaki.

A ceremony was held at the headquarters of Confindustria Bergamo, the Bergamo association of manufacturing and service companies, where scholarships were awarded to the sons and daughters of RadiciGroup employees who graduated from university during the years 2019 and 2020.

More than 40 young graduates were presented scholarships by Angelo, Maurizio and Paolo Radici, the Group’s shareholders: “We wish you a very satisfying professional career that will also contribute to your personal growth. The professional world of work needs your enthusiasm, energy and dynamism. Choose what you like to do, because only in this way can you best express yourself and contribute to the growth of the society in which we all live.”

The scholarships were awarded to students who received honours degrees in many different specializations: mathematics, business, economics, foreign languages, communication and various engineering fields. Two “student workers” – Group colleagues connected remotely from Brazil and China – who graduated with university degrees and met the scholarship eligibility requirements.

The host of the ceremony was Francesca Dubbini, vice president for education of the Young Entrepreneurs Group of Confindustria Bergamo, who stressed the importance of combining education with experience in the field. The students were also able to visit Joiint Lab and SMILE, laboratories at the Confindustria headquarters established with the goal of creating synergies between the world of research and industry.

The winner of the IMAGINING SUSTAINABLE FASHION competition was announced during a webinar broadcast on March 30 at 4pm attended by Giusy Bettoni, CEO of C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub, Anna Detheridge, President of Connecting Cultures, Dio Kurazawa, Founding Partner of The Bear Scouts, Stefania Ricci, Director of the Salvatore Ferragamo Museum.
 
Vishal Tolambia, 24, a graduate with an MA in Fashion Futures from the London College of Fashion and in Fashion Design from the National Institute of Fashion Technology India, is a Fashion Sustainability researcher and a multidisciplinary designer. In 2021, Vishal founded the organization Humanity-Centred Designs (HCD) with the aim of transforming "human-centred design into humanity-centred designs through sustainable practices to foster the Fashion Industry."
 
In his communication project, the "Fashion Affair" video proposes a speculative view of fashion dating - derived from dating apps - a tool to effectively evaluate brands and their products, in the form of augmented reality. The consumer is not only informed in real time about the brand and supply chain, but the app also becomes a platform for matching products based on individual sustainability goals and commitments. "Fashion Affair" also won the special social media contest open to the public among the finalists selected by the jury for being the most voted project by Instagram followers on C.L.A.S.S.' profile.
 
Vishal ranked first among the finalists selected by the international jury composed of:
- Anna Detheridge, Founder and President, Connecting Cultures
- Giusy Bettoni, CEO and Founder, C.L.A.S.S.
- Rita Airaghi, Director, Gianfranco Ferré Research Center            
- Paola Arosio, Head of New Brands & Sustainability Projects, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (The National Chamber for Italian Fashion)
- Jeanine Ballone, Managing Director, Fashion 4 Development
- Evie Evangelou, Founder and President, Fashion 4 Development
- Chiara Luisi, Sustainability Projects Coordinator, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (The National Chamber for Italian Fashion)
- Sara Kozlowski, Director of Education and Sustainable Strategies, Council of Fashion Designers of America
- Dio Kurazawa, Founding Partner, The Bear Scouts
- Renata Molho, journalist and fashion writer, former editor-in-chief of L'Uomo Vogue and editor-at-large of L'Uomo Vogue, Vogue Italia, Casa Vogue
- Stefania Ricci, Director, Salvatore Ferragamo Museum.

According to the United Nations Conference of Trade and Development, the fashion and textile industry represents one of the major polluters of water in the world, with an estimated 93 billion cubic metres of water used per year.

On the occasion of Water Day, C.L.A.S.S. CEO and Founder Giusy Bettoni talked to Sensil® BioCare, Kornit, Ecoalf and Unesco on how their strategies and processes can preserve our most precious, yet limited resource.

Key Takeaways from the Speakers:
"The ocean is absolutely crucial for the survival of this planet, since it almost covers 71 percent of its surface. Writer Arthur Clarke once said: how inappropriate is to call this planet earth, when it is clearly planet ocean."
- Francesca Santoro, Programme Specialist at IOC UNESCO Regional Bureau for Science and Culture in Europe

"Sensil® BioCare is our solution to reduce the persistence of textile waste in the ocean. We embedded technology in it so that if any microfiber is released in the washing, they will break down faster than conventional nylon. Based on an external study, we have seen an almost 60 percent microplastic reduction in two years"
- Michelle Lea, Vice President Global Marketing at Nilit

"When it comes to our printing processes, almost no water is in use and the waste is minimal. We have never seen this before in this industry. Based on LCA tests, when compared to screen printing our "Atlas Max" printer saves up to 93 percent of water, while the "Presto" printer saves up to 95 percent of water".
- Michal Arbel, Sustainability Communication Lead at Kornit Digital

"One of the most important projects of the company is Upcycling the Oceans, with the aim of tackling the marine litter in collaboration with the fishing sector. Last year, we collected 300 tons of litter from the seabed, and we promoted circular economy by transforming the waste in products."
- Irene Diez, Director at Ecoalf Foundation

• DUARTE  brings on the runway its SEASON 2 “Eco-Street Dance” collection

By mixing C.L.A.S.S. responsible materials, colorful prints, urban feels and artistic inspiration, the Portuguese streetwear brand creates a new style and a clear yet cool message for conscious fashion consumers.  The rewarded 2021 C.L.A.S.S. Icon Award Portuguese brand Duarte is ready to presents its Fall/Winter 2022/23 collection developed in collaboration with C.L.A.S.S. Eco Hub at ModaLisboa after a first presentation at Milan Fashion Week. From February 24th until 27th, Duarte’s creations have been featured as a special project at WSM (WHITE Sustainable Milano) platform space inside “Unveiling the fashion Backstage”, a docu-event focusing on an immersive journey into the amazing world of premium and smart supply chains that make innovative and responsible fashion wardrobes a reality.

For its second collection Duarte still counts on C.L.A.S.S. support in sourcing materials and communication activities as part of the Icon Award yearly program. The streetwear designer Ana Duarte, with the help of the Milanese hub, is back with a renewed collection that counts 40 pieces continuing the concept and the story behind the previous World Keeper: the irresistible superhero Tadao - Ana Duarte’s dog – fighting against the environmental issues created by mankind and personified as Smog Man (air pollution), Fire Man (climate change), Deforestation Man (forests destruction) and Wave Man (water overconsumption). 

This time the inspiration is also Street Dance drawn directly from the city streets, with majorly unisex pieces (apart from some small specific details linked to sizes or ergonomics) and materials that both respect the planet and keep you warm. The prints drawn from ripped posters giving birth to a sort of new style that we can name “Eco-Street Dance”. The color palette explores the dark shades of grey, cream, blue and black, with artistic pops of color of a hopeful urban culture that tears apart posters from the past and turns them into a new brighter story. 

Talking about materials, the collection presents a selection of urban pieces for everyday superheroes, fighting against environmental issues - with a holistic approach to sustainability values thanks to the synergy with C.L.A.S.S. and its Back in the Loop area: a section dedicated to alternative and sustainable sourcing against the massive amount of materials and textiles produced that are not used and discarded by the fashion system. This is mostly powered by MAEBA International - and its ReLiveTex® fabrics - leader in selecting and repurposing premium Italian fabrics with exceptional 60 years of expertise in collecting high quality materials from leading brands and textile manufacturers, and the first company at an international level to be accredited for the UNI EN ISO 14021 certification which grants the traceability of the collected materials.

The linings complete the full sustainable picture, thanks to Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei fabrics by Gianni Crespi Foderami. Bemberg™ is a new generation material made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linter pre-consumer material, converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process. Entirely made in Japan, it comes with Compostability and Ecotoxicity Certifications verified by Innovhub SSI, RCS, OEKOTEX® Standard 100 and the Eco Mark certifications. The factory is ISO 14001 certified, too. 

• Senior leaders appointed to grow Green Bay operations, expand in global markets

Paper Converting Machine Company (PCMC), as part of Barry-Wehmiller’s Converting Solutions platform, has filled several key roles on the leadership team in Green Bay in alignment with the platform’s strategic plan to grow local operations and expand its global footprint.

Scott Bean has joined as Executive Vice President of Operations. He will drive manufacturing capacity and excellence across the platform’s five facilities in Green Bay, as well as its European locations in Lucca, Italy; Neuwied, Germany; and Čačak, Serbia. Bean brings 20-plus years of experience leading operations at several large global manufacturers, including Milwaukee-based Rexnord and most recently, Filtration Group, where he served as a President.

Jason Hilsberg, who joined PCMC in 2003 as a Field Service Leader and has held numerous other roles, including Sales Director, has been named Vice President of Lifecycle Support. In his new role, he leads the global field service, customer technical support and equipment modification sales teams.

Kelly Morgano has joined as the Global Vice President of People. In her new role, Morgano will lead the human resources, culture, communications and people development functions, while supporting the platform’s commitment to caring for team members. She has worked in human resources for more than 20 years, most recently with Zurn Water Solutions.

PCMC and its divisions, Hudson-Sharp and Northern Engraving, have expanded their footprint in the tissue and nonwovensconverting, bag-converting and flexographic-printing equipment markets in recent years, reporting significant revenue growth in 2021. The company has been a fixture in Green Bay since 1919.

• neuer Global General Manager
• neue Struktur für Europa

Gregory Mountain Products, seit mehr als vier Jahrzehnten einer der führenden Rucksackhersteller mit Sitz in Salt Lake City (Utah), hat seit Januar einen neuen General Manager: John Sears. Er ist kein Unbekannter, sondern seit knapp 20 Jahren in unterschiedlichen Positionen im Unternehmen tätig. Dank Beförderungen und Neuzugängen stärkt die Marke zeitgleich das Team für den Europäischen Markt.

Mit knapp 20 Jahren bei Gregory Mountain Products ist John Sears so etwas wie ein Urgestein. In unterschiedlichsten Funktionen und Positionen hat er die Entwicklung der Marke in den letzten beiden Jahrzehnten maßgeblich geprägt. Seit Januar 2022 ist er nun Global General Manager von Gregory. Zuletzt verantwortete John Sears als Vice President Design & Product die globale Produktentwicklung und Produktion, Marketing und Vertrieb in Nordamerika, sowie die Geschäftsführung. In dieser Zeit verzeichnete Gregory ein ebenso konstantes wie nachhaltiges globales Wachstum. John wird weiterhin vom Headquarter im nordamerikanischen Salt Lake City (Utah) aus tätig sein und berichtet direkt an den Samsonite Vorstand USA.

Auch in Europa tut sich etwas: Marc Morell – bisher Sales Manager Gregory für Deutschland und Österreich – hat seit dem 1.1.2022 eine neue Rolle: Als Sales Manager Central Europe wird er neben dem deutschen Markt insbesondere die Vertriebspartner in Österreich, der Schweiz, Italien, Tschechien und auf dem Balkan beim Vertriebsaufbau und der Stärkung der Markenpräsenz unterstützen.

Vom Samsonite Europa-Headquarter im belgischen Oudenaarde aus, hat Kristof Verleyen – Mitarbeiter der ersten Stunde – maßgeblich zum Verkaufserfolg der letzten Jahre beigetragen. Er wurde ebenfalls zum 1.1.2022 zum Supervisor Sales Operations befördert. In dieser Funktion wird er seine derzeitigen Aufgaben weiterführen, sich aber verstärkt auf die Bereiche Berichtswesen, Verkaufsaktivierung, Lagerverwaltung und Supply Chain Management konzentrieren.

Ebenfalls in Oudenaarde begrüßt Gregory ein neues Teammitglied im Bereich E-Commerce: Mar Segura Ferrer. Als E-Commerce Specialist verantwortet sie seit dem 1.11.2021 die digitale Präsenz von Gregory Mountain Products auf dem europäischen Markt. Zuvor war die gebürtige Spanierin im Marketing von Buff (Barcelona) und zuletzt beim katalanischen Fremdenverkehrsamt Brüssel im Bereich Abenteuertourismus tätig.

Lars Föll, General Manager Gregory Europa, freut sich über die positive Entwicklung: „Auch wenn wir auf dem europäischen Markt nach wie vor mit einem kleinen, feinen Team unterwegs sind, so sehen wir doch ein konstantes und, was uns besonders freut, nachhaltiges Wachstum. Dennoch sollte man uns als kleine Marke nicht unterschätzen – aufgrund unserer langjährigen Erfahrung und der kompromisslosen Konzentration auf Tragekomfort haben wir eine stetig wachsende Fan-Base. Zudem profitieren wir natürlich sehr von Synergien mit unserem Mutterkonzern Samsonite und dessen weit verzweigten und über Jahrzehnte gewachsenen Netzwerk.“