From the Sector

CARBIOS celebrated the groundbreaking ceremony for its PET biorecycling plant in the presence of representatives of local authorities, partner brands and industrial partners who all make up CARBIOS’ ecosystem. Located in Longlaville, in the Grand-Est region of France, CARBIOS' first commercial plant will play a key role in the fight against plastic pollution, offering an industrial-scale solution for the enzymatic depolymerization of PET waste in order to accelerate a circular economy for plastic and textiles. The plant will have a processing capacity of 50kt/year of prepared waste when operating at full capacity. Work is progressing on schedule with significant quantities delivered to customers in 2026.

CARBIOS' technology enables PET circularity and provides an alternative raw material to fossil-based monomers, giving PET producers, waste management companies, public bodies and brands an effective solution to meet regulatory requirements and their own commitments to sustainable development. The plant will have the capacity to process 50,000 tons of prepared PET waste per year (equivalent to 2 billion colored bottles, 2.5 billion food trays or 300 million T-shirts). The plant will create 150 direct and indirect jobs in the region. In October 2023, CARBIOS obtained the building and operating permits for the site. The factory is currently under construction on land officially acquired from Indorama Ventures on 14 February 2024. In February 2024, CARBIOS and De Smet Engineers & Contractors (DSEC) announced their collaboration to manage construction. Several feedstock supply agreements, notably with CITEO and Landbell Group, will secure the vast majority of the raw materials required.  Close to the borders with Belgium, Germany and Luxembourg, the plant's location is strategic for access to nearby waste supplies

The transition towards safer and more sustainable chemicals is progressing in some areas, while in others, it is just beginning. This is the finding of a first, joint Europe-wide assessment of the drivers and impact of chemical pollution by the European Environment Agency (EEA) and the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA). The benchmarking found that more work is still needed to reduce the impact of harmful substances on human health and the environment.

The number of industrial chemicals scrutinised under the EU’s chemicals legislation to determine their safety has increased substantially. Authorities now have much better knowledge about the hazardous properties of chemicals that are used across the EU, resulting in many actions to minimise and control the risks of several groups of substances.

According to the joint EEA-ECHA synthesis report on the EU indicator framework for chemicals, the overall use of the most harmful chemicals (in particular those that are carcinogenic, mutagenic and reprotoxic) is still growing but more slowly than the overall chemicals market growth. Pressure is increasing to avoid the use of so-called substances of concern and to implement the principles of the safe and sustainable by design framework.

There is a need to more effectively ensure that consumer products do not contain the most harmful substances, for example chemicals that are endocrine disrupting, that negatively affect the hormone system, or substances that are persistent, bioaccumulative and toxic, which present a risk for years to come even after their use has ceased.

More data and information are needed to better understand human and environmental exposure to those most harmful chemicals and their impacts. Still, the indicators show clearly that the shift to safe and sustainable chemicals must continue and should even be accelerated.

The report is based on a set of 25 key indicators, which monitor the drivers and impacts of chemical pollution in Europe.

Key findings

• Transition towards safer and more sustainable chemicals is progressing in some areas while in others it is just getting started.
• Action by authorities and industry has supported minimising and controlling the risks from several groups of hazardous chemicals. Efforts are ongoing to increase knowledge on chemical hazards and support risk management action where needed.
• Available data suggest that there is little evidence of progress towards eliminating substances of concern from waste and secondary materials. This is a barrier to the transition towards a more circular economy.
• Emissions of certain chemicals to water and air have fallen following specific EU regulations (e.g., on industrial emissions) and international actions, but further measures are needed to reach concentration levels that are not harmful for human health and the environment.
• Emissions from industry still lead to major costs in terms of damages to human and ecosystem health.
• Human biomonitoring offers the opportunity to understand human exposure to chemicals from multiple sources and thus health risks associated with chemical pollution. As such, biomonitoring forms a key tool to measure the effectiveness of chemicals legislation in protecting human health and the environment.

Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel Europe (Freudenberg) has reached a further sustainability milestone: The new Freudenberg Apparel Competence Center in Sant’Omero, Italy, successfully completed the 4sustainability® Chemical Management protocol (4s CHEM) recently and reached the Advanced Level. The aim of the protocol is to progressively eliminate toxic and hazardous chemicals and related risks throughout the production process.

Competence center for interlinings
Freudenberg opened its Apparel Competence Center in Sant’Omero in May 2023. The factory in Italy is an innovative competence center that coats and finishes nonwoven, woven and weft interlinings for apparel customers in Europe.
Freudenberg has now taken the next logical step: as part of a comprehensive audit, the Apparel Competence Center has implemented ZDHC guidelines in its production process. To achieve this, Freudenberg called in the experts from Process Factory, a consultancy that specializes in sustainability topics. With their support, Freudenberg’s Sant’Omero site has reached the Advanced level of the 4sustainability® Chemical Management protocol (4s CHEM), in line with the ZDHC Roadmap to Zero Program.
Implementation is controlled annually based on this protocol and offers companies in the fashion industry a degree of reliability. It guarantees structured, fully transparent procedures, regular monitoring, and continuous control of Freudenberg’s production processes.  

ZDHC
By demonstrating its rejection of environmentally harmful chemicals and substances, the Apparel Competence Center shows that Freudenberg gives top priority to taking responsibility for people and the environment.
The aim of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Foundation and its globally recognized Roadmap to Zero Program is to eliminate the release of toxic chemicals in the textile and fashion industry’s supply chain based on the ZDHC Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (ZDHC MRSL).
By applying the 4s CHEM protocol, the production site in Sant’Omero is sending a clear signal to the fashion industry that Freudenberg products meet the highest quality standards and are also safe and environmentally friendly.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) is showcasing solutions for the automotive, building, apparel, filtration and packaging industries at this year’s Techtextil in Frankfurt am Main from April 23 – 26.

Sustainable nonwoven for car seats
One innovation highlight at Techtextil is a novel Polyester nonwoven material for car seat padding. Also available as a nonwoven composite with PU foam, it is not only easier for car seat manufacturers to handle during the mounting process, but also ensures better dimensional stability as well as providing soft and flexible padding. It has a minimum 25 percent recycled content, for example, by reusing nonwoven clippings and waste, and is fully recyclable. Full supply chain transparency enables customers to trace and verify the content of the nonwoven and thus ensures a responsible production process. The Freudenberg experts will also be presenting several other nonwoven solutions made of up to 80 percent recycled materials that can be used in car seat manufacturing.

Biocarrier for green roofs
Freudenberg is showcasing a sustainable carrier material for green roofs on urban buildings at the trade fair. The carrier is made from polylactide, i.e. from renewable resources. When filled with soil, it provides a strong foothold to root systems, enabling the growth of lightweight sedum blankets that can be rolled out to provide instant green roofs. These roofs not only help counter urban heat, they also improve stormwater management and regulate indoor temperatures.

From textile waste to padding
The company extended its circular thermal wadding product range with the release of comfortemp® HO 80xR circular, a wadding made from 70 percent recycled polyamide from discarded fishing nets, carpet flooring and industrial plastic. Because polyamide 6, also known as nylon, retains its performance characteristics after multiple recycling processes, the fibers can be used again and again to manufacture performance sporting apparel, leisurewear and luxury garments.

Packaging solutions with various sustainability benefits
Freudenberg is also showcasing products for sustainable packaging and filtration solutions. The long-lasting Evolon® technical packaging series is a substitute for disposable packaging used in the transport of sensitive industrial items such as automotive parts. The material is made from up to 85 percent recycled PET. A further highlight at Techtextil are Freudenberg’s fully bio-based solutions for manufacturing dessicant bags. The binder-free material based on bio-fibers is also industrially compostable.
In addition, the experts will be giving trade fair visitors an insight into Freudenberg’s filtration portfolio.

The announcement of a new effluent treatment plant (ETP) marks a milestone in Denim Expert's journey towards sustainability. This upcoming facility is a testament to the company's dedication to reducing its ecological footprint and safeguarding local ecosystems through advanced water management techniques.

The new Effluent Treatment Plant (ETP) being developed by Denim Expert strives for 100% wastewater recycling. As the ETP rises from concept to reality, Denim Expert embarks on a transition towards its next horizon: aligning with the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Wastewater Guidelines Version 2.0.

Denim Expert's proactive approach to sustainability has been recognized on a global scale. The company has been named 'New Champion' by the World Economic Forum and has partnered with organizations such as the Sustainable Apparel Coalition (SAC), the United Nations Framework Convention on Climate Change (UNFCCC), and the Ellen MacArthur Foundation's Jeans Redesign program. As one of the first factories to join the Partnership for Cleaner Textile (PaCT) and in the process of implementing the 3E program, Denim Expert is dedicated to achieving 100% water reuse and full reliance on solar energy, further solidifying its commitment to driving positive environmental change.

CARBIOS and De Smet Engineers & Contractors (DSEC), a provider of Engineering, Procurement and Construction services in the biotech’s and agro-processing industries, announce their collaboration to spearhead the construction of the world's first PET biorecycling plant. Under the agreement, De Smet has been entrusted with the project management and detailed engineering, including procurement assistance and CARBIOS partners’ management, to ensure the execution of the plant's construction in Longlaville, France, due for commissioning in 2025.  CARBIOS’ first commercial facility will play a key role in the fight against plastic pollution by offering an industrial-scale solution for the enzymatic depolymerization of PET waste to accelerate a circular economy for plastic and textiles.

With over 70 members of De Smet's expert team dedicated to the project and working alongside CARBIOS teams, the collaboration aims to guarantee the project timeline and budget while upholding quality, safety, health, and environmental standards. Construction is currently underway and on schedule.

Stahl has achieved Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) MRSL 3.1 Gateway certification for 2,151 products in its portfolio. This achievement underlines Stahl’s ongoing commitment to the ZDHC mission of achieving high standards for sustainable chemical management.

ZDHC certification enables companies working in the footwear, apparel and accessories value chains to demonstrate their commitment to responsible chemical management, with the ultimate goal being zero discharge of hazardous chemicals. Level 3 certification represents the highest level of conformity with the ZDHC certification programme. To achieve this, Stahl’s formulated chemical products and raw materials were verified and tested against ZDHC’s latest Manufacturing Restricted Substances List (MRSL 3.1) by Eurofins | Chem-MAP®. The Chem-MAP® programme was also used to audit the chemical management and stewardship processes at three of Stahl’s manufacturing sites.

The Tuscan tannery Vesta Corporation has presented to its stakeholders a report outlining its current commitment and future objectives, with a view to innovating, safeguarding and fostering high-end leather material processing.

Ever since it was founded in 1966 in Ponte a Egola, the Tuscan hub for the production of leather for vegetable tanned soles, Vesta has been a supplier and partner of haute couture and sportswear brands, from lightweight calf and half-calf leather, to heavy leathers made with hind and rump hide, for leatherware and shoes.

To draft this Report, reference was made to the “Global Reporting Initiative Sustainability Reporting Standards” established by the Global Reporting Initiative (GRI). The information in the balance sheet refers to the year 2022 (from 1 January to 31December 2022). Wherever possible, data for the previous year are included, to allow for a comparison of data over time and to assess the trend of Vesta activities. Sustainability is an objective-driven process. This means that comparing data allows for concretely measuring the company’s progress, as it pursues this accounting process year after year.

The improvement actions already implemented by Vesta involve corporate responsibility from an environmental, social and governance perspective. An example are the improved heating and processing plants (which entails the construction of a new tumbling department based on 4.0 technology). This guarantees significant energy, water and economic savings. Along with numerous corporate certifications, the company has passed the Raw Material Traceability test with a score of EXCELLENT, as well as the Carbon and Water footprint analysis.

As confirmation of its commitment to improving corporate performance levels, Vesta has been upgraded from BRONZE (2020) to GOLD in 2023, as assessed by the Leather Working Group (which measures leather manufacturers’ environmental performance for ecological production and for a systemic management of quality, environmental, safety and ethical factors).

Becoming energy-independent is a major step in the pipeline, involving the installation of a photovoltaic plant. This is complemented by the implementation of a project aimed at totally compensating its CO2 emissions for the year subject to accounting and certification. This neutrality will be achieved through the acquisition of credits deriving from projects certified by the United Nations. For example, with the construction of an important hydro-electric plant to which Vesta is contributing. With regard to production, corporate research is currently focused on developing solutions to reduce water and energy use. It is also implementing circular trends by adopting an increasing number of bio-based products, to guarantee the most sustainable end-of-life and waste management for its products.

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited has been selected for inclusion in the Dow Jones Sustainability World Index (DJSI World) for the fifth consecutive year and the Dow Jones Sustainability Emerging Markets Index (DJSI Emerging Markets) for the seventh year in a row.

Indorama Ventures ranked in the 92nd percentile amongst 11 chemical companies eligible for listing out of 89 chemical companies invited, with a Corporate Sustainability Assessment (CSA) Score of 73 out of 100. The score reflects the company’s best-in-class performance in innovation management, covering product innovation, process innovation, and open innovation, which involves collaborative research and development with external organizations such as customers, suppliers, brand owners, and academic institutions. It also recognizes the company’s achievements in decarbonization, climate change resiliency and adaptation, plastic waste management and recycling, corporate social responsibility, and contribution to the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs).

With the growing demand among brands and consumers for plastic-free materials and ingredient transparency, VEOCEL™, the flagship specialty nonwovens brand of Lenzing Group, showcased LENZING™ Lyocell Dry fiber at Hygienix 2023. LENZING™ Lyocell Dry fiber which is not classified as “plastic” according to EU SUPD, meets the growing interest for plastic-free nonwoven products across the industry and among consumers. Additionally, along with being an environment-friendly solution, the fiber delivers high-performance dryness and comfort which makes it the optimum fiber choice for absorbent hygiene applications.

Comprised of mostly fossil-based materials, absorbent hygiene products are an essential part of many consumers’ daily lives. With heightened concerns towards environmental impact, the product segment has been undergoing a change caused by shifting consumer preferences, increased consciousness and concerns towards plastic waste, and technology advancement. LENZING™ Lyocell Dry fiber has embraced these changes without compromising on quality or performance.

LENZING™ Lyocell Dry is a cellulosic environment-friendly wood-based alternative to fossil-based fibers. Besides offering great performance features such as liquid management, dryness, gentle-on-the-skin comfort, softness, and quality, LENZING™ Lyocell Dry helps to meet the needs of customers who are aiming to produce plastic-free applications or end products that do not harm the planet without compromising on performance or comfort.

Featuring Lenzing’s unique Dry technology, LENZING™ Lyocell Dry’s hydrophobic characteristics and liquid-controlling properties make it the ideal fiber for absorbent hygiene products. Its high-performing hydrophobicity makes it the optimal choice for a wide range of applications, including baby diapers, feminine care and personal hygiene products as well as adult incontinence products.

The fiber has consistently been tested by Lenzing as the softest* fiber among cellulosic fibers in both dry and wet stages. LENZING™ Lyocell Dry will enable brands and manufacturers to deliver quality hygiene products that provide a high level of comfort, softness, and dryness.

*Lenzing AG softness panel test