From the Sector

• “Natural Materials: The Path Towards Brand Responsibility” Panel Discussion Comes to Functional Fabric Fair in NYC

As global regulations and increased customer concern drive the demand for sustainable products, forward thinking brands are increasingly turning to natural materials as a sustainable alternative.

This panel will spotlight how newer biomass-based textiles are complementing established materials like down and wool to not only enhance performance but also to meet evolving consumer demands for eco-friendly products.

Hosted by textile industry communications agency Formidable Media and scheduled for Tuesday, July 16, this panel will provide an inside look at how natural materials can be leveraged to grow brand responsibility while elevating textile performance.

The discussion will feature insights from leaders in sustainability and textile innovation, exploring the opportunities and challenges in adopting natural materials within supply chains. Attendees can expect a deep dive into the latest advancements and best practices that are shaping the future of responsible sourcing and manufacturing in the textile sector.

Panelists include:

• Matthew Betcher, Creative Director, ALLIED Feather + Down
• Monica Ebert, Business Development and Sustainability, Manager, Woolmark
• Sharon Perez, Senior Business Development Manager, Lenzing Group
• Chad Kelly, President, eVent Fabrics

Maintaining a focus on innovation despite the uncertainties that characterize the current international scenario was emphasized during the General Assembly of ACIMIT, the Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association, held in Milan on July 9. ACIMIT president, Marco Salvadè, showcased the data of the Italian textile machinery industry. In 2023, production decreased by 16%, settling at a value of 2.3 billion euros, as did exports, which also fell by 16% (2 billion euros).

China, Turkey, India, and the United States remain the main destinations for Italian textile machinery manufacturers. In 2023, demand for machinery in these markets was weak, but some positive signals emerged in the first quarter of the current year, especially from the Chinese market and again from Egypt, Pakistan, Brazil, and Japan. “2024 will still be a year characterized by many uncertainties,” commented Salvadè, “mainly due to the uncertainty of the geopolitical situation and fluctuations in final demand”.

In an especially difficult international scenario and with a still sluggish market, the Italian textile machinery sector remains a leader alongside a few other Countries, such as China, Germany, and Japan. “Our sector is renowned worldwide for its reliability, know-how, and the uniquely Italian ability to combine tradition and innovation,” noted the ACIMIT president. Accelerating innovation remains crucial, particularly to meet the challenges that await Italian manufacturers in supporting textile companies on their sustainable transition journey.

To highlight the opportunities that the European green transition opens up for technology suppliers, the public section of the ACIMIT General Assembly addressed a very current issue: textile recycling. The EU’s legislative guidelines aim to accelerate the green and circular transition of the textile sector with various actions: from ecodesign to EPR, from waste export regulation to green claims. Meanwhile, there is a growing demand for recycled textile fibers driven by the sustainable policies of brands that should not be underestimated.

Thus, technologies play an important role in providing solutions to companies engaged in the new circularity supply chain: from sorting and selection of garments to preparation phases and recycling processes. During the event several speakers agreed that the experience and capabilities of the Italian textile and textile machinery sector should be fully leveraged at this crucial stage for the entire supply chain. As President Salvadè noted, “Textile machinery companies intend to increase R&D activities in this area, collaborating with their textile customers in the belief that the circular transformation of business models also represents an opportunity for technology suppliers to increase their competitiveness.”

Archromais introducing an innovative portable version of its Color Atlas by Archroma® color catalogue to help streamline textile and fashion industry workflows with convenient color comparison.

The Color Atlas by Archroma®, Mini Flex and Mini Palette editions are available as libraries of textile color swatches that set a new standard for efficient color selection and comparison while on the go, in the office, factory or in a work-from-home setting.

Color comparison is a fundamental part of the work of designers and their textile mill and brand partners. However, achieving the perfect color match or color harmony without convenient access to color library reference books has long been a challenge. Physical color libraries can be bulky and heavy with even compact editions of physical libraries are too big to fit into a backpack or shoulder bag. The new Color Atlas by Archroma® formats give designers a visual companion tool for digital color libraries may not be accurate due to the limitations of the user’s smartphone or tablet display.

The Color Atlas by Archroma® Mini Flex and Mini Palette editions overcome these challenges. Both formats are user friendly and travel-ready, with no mask required to isolate colors for selection and comparison.

• The Mini Flex edition features textile color chips that allow users to quickly find and compare colors with their desired target color.
• In the Mini Palette edition, individual color chips are inserted into slots in plastic palette sheets for ease of use and portability. Users can carry the pre-made palette sheet swatches or customize a palette sheet using chips from several swatches.

Both Color Atlas by Archroma® Mini Flex and Mini Palette formats contain 5,760 colors: 4,320 cotton colors and 1,440 polyester colors. Each of the colors are also available from Archroma as Engineered Color Standards that include achievability information on alternate fiber types, precise dyeing recipes formulated with products that comply with leading international eco-standards, digital data for recipe predictions, dye eco compliance information and access to expert technical support from Archroma around the world.

A navy blue nylon dress, providing elegance and comfort to the wearer while simultaneously highlighting the entire Made in Italy production chain: this is the new project RadiciGroup is presenting at Milano Unica, from July 9th to 11th at the Innovation Forum promoted by the TexClubTec section of Sistema Moda Italia.

The dress is the result of a traceability project led by RadiciGroup, involving different players in the textile sector: from the yarn producer to the fabric manufacturer to the final consumer.

A "tracer" has been inserted into the yarn, which is detectable through a scanner and allows to map the entire garment creation process - both physically and digitally - from the origin of the fibre to the item end of life. Through a QR code printed on the label, all the "stages" defining the outfit's journey can be seen, including the production of the fabric made by another company from Bergamo, Sitip. In this way, the final consumers can learn more about the production sites of what they wear, making more conscious purchasing choices.

At the booth of another Italian textile company, Tessitura Vignetta, visitors will be able to touch several types of fabric made with the "traced" nylon produced by RadiciGroup.

This is another example of how important it is to work transparently and collaboratively in the textile supply chain. Through the traceability of textile products, the goal is to fight counterfeiting and enhance products made in Europe, in line with the principles of the Digital Product Passport under development at the European Union.

CARBIOS and Zhink Group, specializing in two global industries, PET and textiles, announce the signing of a joint Letter of Intent to build a biorecycling plant in China using CARBIOS’ revolutionary enzymatic depolymerization technology to serve the global market. This agreement officializes collaboration towards a long-term partnership in view of a first licensing contract to build a plant with a minimum annual processing capacity of 50k tons of prepared PET waste and would contribute to accelerating a circular economy for plastic and textiles. China is a key market for CARBIOS, and this agreement would establish a presence in this dominant market.

With 67 million tons of PET produced annually, representing 61% of global production^[1], China is the world's largest PET producer. With regional and global demand for recycled PET growing, China also has the potential to take the lead in recycled PET (r-PET) production. In 2021, 58% of the world’s r-PET was consumed in Asia (with 38% in China^[2]) underscoring this region’s importance both as a major producer and consumer.

Furthermore, China is a key transformer of PET into resins and fibers used in numerous applications in the packaging and textile industries.  Most notably, China is the primary country for transforming PET into fiber, representing 78% of all PET fiber transformation in the world^[3].

For Zhink, the strategic focus is on the development of two global industries, PET and textiles, and to be a leader with sustainable competitiveness. Zhink is a major actor within the PET market with an annual production of 3 million tons of PET, serving domestic and global markets. CARBIOS has developed a enzymatic depolymerization technology that enables efficient and solvent-free recycling of PET plastic and textile waste into virgin-like products. The initial agreement between the two groups would allow Zhink to increase its recycled PET capacities and meet its sustainable competitiveness objectives by offering r-PET from enzymatic recycling: a circular recycling solution that can process all types of PET waste including hard-to-recycle waste (such as opaque and colored bottles, multilayer food trays and textile waste) while reducing CO2 emissions by 57%^[4] compared with virgin PET production. For CARBIOS, this agreement marks a significant step in the deployment of its technology worldwide and roll-out of its licensing model to achieve its ambition to become a leading technology provider in the recycling of PET by 2035. This Asia-based plant under license by Zhink would come in addition to the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant which is currently under construction in Longlaville, France.

^[1] HIS Markit 2021, Market Research Future 2021
^[2] HIS Markit 2021, Market Research Future 2021
^[3] HIS Markit 2021, Market Research Future 2021
^[4] Database ecoinvent 3.8; French scenario, taking into account the detour of 50% of PET waste from conventional end-of-life. Virgin PET: 2.53 kg CO2/kg (cradle to gate)

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced that wipes leaders across the supply chain convened for new connections, intelligence, sustainability strategies, and business at the World of Wipes® (WOW) International Conference, June 17-20 in Minneapolis, Minnesota.

The winner of the World of Wipes Innovation Award® was Rockline Industries for their Facial Care Wipe with Glycine Amino Acid Complex. This new Skin Care Wipe contains a unique multifunctional complex of two medium chain glycine, a phospholipid and a blend of special glycol ingredients that provides for a multitude of skin care benefits as well as providing a unique preservation system for nonwovens. The Skin Care Wipe provides substantiated improved skin smoothness, elasticity, and hydration alongside an anti-ageing claim. This innovation is amongst the first to use these glycine ingredients in a Skin Care Wipe formulation.

In a special recognition, INDA presented the 2024 Lifetime Service Award to David Powling, Technical Leader, Kimberly-Clark Corporation (retired), and the 2024 Lifetime Technical Achievement Award to Paul Latten, Director of Research & Development & New Business, Southeast Nonwovens, Inc. INDA honors both Powling and Latten for their decades of contributions to the nonwovens industry as well as being strong advocates for INDA.

The 1.5-day WIPES Academy, led by Heidi Beatty, Chief Executive Officer, Crown Abbey, LLC, and Paul Davies, Ph.D., Consultant, Crown Abbey, LLC, preceded the WOW Conference June 17-18. This course focused on the essentials of wet wipes construction and ingredients. Participants learned how to bring nonwovens, lotions, and packaging together to launch a successful product. The next WIPES Academy will be held July 21-22, 2025 at the Hilton Columbus Downtown, Columbus, Ohio in conjunction with WOW 2025.

The WOW conference program featured experts discussing these key topics:

• Sparkle & Shine: How Wipes Became WOW
• Wiping Smart: The Rise of Sustainable Practices in the Institutional and Industrial Wipe Markets
• Transformative Trends in Wet Wipe Formulations: A Dual Focus on Skin Health and Sustainability
• Leading Alternatives to Traditional Plastics Used in Wipes
• Panel Discussion: Leading Alternatives to Traditional Plastics Used in Wipes
• Eclectic Perspectives: Unraveling the Threads of I&I Wipes and Scaling Strategies
• Putting $$ in Your Pocket
• Recycling & Regulations

In addition to the premium content in the conference program, WOW featured four pre-conference webinars (with recordings available for full conference attendees), tabletop exhibits, Lightning Talks, a Skin Care Formulation Workshop 101, and a mentorship program for participants who are new to the wipes industry.

WOW 2025 will be held July 21-25, at the Hilton Columbus Downtown in Columbus, Ohio.

ReHubs announces the election of its Board of Directors. The election came during the ReHubs Annual Event, this year hosted by Coleo in Barcelona, in which they presented their new Recycling Sorting Facility, prompted through their partnership with ReHubs.

The elected Board of Directors, comprising experienced and diverse industry leaders from ReHubs partner organisations, will support Executive Director Chris Deloof in developing ReHubs' capacity-building and knowledge-sharing projects. The Board includes; Acerina Trejo Machin (Resortecs), Alain Poincheval (Reju), Anna Pehrsson (TEXAID), Bouraoui Kechiche (DECATHLON), Carl Baekelandt (Concordia Textiles / PurFi), David Puyuelo Huguet (Coleo), Dirk Vantyghem (EURATEX), Félix Poza Peña (INDITEX), Mariska Boer (Boer Group), Outi Luukko (Rester), Véronique Allaire Spitzer (Refashion).

The two-day ReHubs Annual Event featured a dynamic program where ReHubs twenty-five partners to date came together to connect and strengthen relationships, fostering collaboration and the exchange of innovative ideas. Additionally, ReHubs partners received policy updates from EURATEX and their possible implications for the industry and engaged in a discussion with the European Investment Bank on their Venture Debt Program and their Advisory Services.

As hosts of this year’s Annual Event, Spain-based organisation Coleo provided an exclusive preview of their new Recycling Sorting Facility to all ReHubs partners. The pre-opening of Coleo’s innovative facility in Mataró was a highlight, showcasing their latest advancements in textile sorting and recycling.

The KARL MAYER GROUP founds a production company in Romania and hires Patrick Mack as an additional General Manager.

In October 2023, the KARL MAYER GROUP founded a production company in Romania to make itself more resilient and strengthen its competitiveness. KARL MAYER ROMANIA S.R.L. will initially start production in Baia Mare, which were rented in February 2024. A move to a new factory building in the neighbourhood is planned in the future.

In May of this year, Patrick Mack took up his position as General Manager at the Romanian subsidiary of KARL MAYER. He will be supported in his tasks by Manfred Reinhold, also at the head of KARL MAYER ROMANIA. Patrick Mack will manage the business locally.

The German-American has already set up a factory for a foreign company in Romania and has a clear idea of his new role: "KARL MAYER ROMANIA is of extreme strategic importance. That is why I want to build a site that fits seamlessly into the manufacturing footprint of the KARL MAYER GROUP. The new production facility should fulfil all KARL MAYER standards, contribute to the improvement of the company as a whole and represent it accordingly," explains Patrick Mack.

Mayer & Cie. presented an overview of its current portfolio in the circular knitting sector at the ITM in Istanbul. Two machine types – the SF4 3.2 III and the Relanit 3.2 HS II – and various smart solutions that make circular knitting more efficient were on display. knithawk, a tool for the optical detection of knitting defects, met with interest among the visitors. The same was true for knitlink, Mayer & Cie's hub for digital solutions. Spare parts packages and conversion kits are also in demand for the long-term value retention of Mayer & Cie. machines.

Relanit 3.2 HS II
The Relanit 3.2 HS mechanical single jersey machine offers high productivity, especially in the context of elastic plating. It processes a wide range of yarns and qualities reliably. It is suitable for processing recycled yarns. Their energy consumption is up to a third lower than that of a circular knitting machine with conventional technology.

In Istanbul, Mayer & Cie. presented an updated version of its flagship, the Relanit 3.2 HS II. The new open-width take down is the single component that attracted the most interest. It ensures a uniform pull-off tension of the knitted fabric over its entire circumference. The knitted hose is only opened below the take-down rollers. Furthermore, the take-dwon is equipped with two drives: one for tensioning, one for rewinding. Both can be controlled separately.

Another innovation of the Relanit 3.2 HS is aimed at reducing downtimes: The needle with predetermined breaking point, which was developed together with Groz-Beckert, prevents it from breaking uncontrollably and, in the worst case, breaking needle butt. The new spring sinker is also a joint development with Groz-Beckert. This makes the Relanit 3.2 HS II run more smoothly, produce less noise as well as with less wear and tear.

SF4-3.2 III for lightweight three-tread fleece knitted fabrics
With its SF4-3.2 III, Mayer & Cie. is addressing a trend in the clothing industry that is reflected beyond Turkey: lightweight, elastic three-thread knitted fabrics in both pure cotton and blends.

New Control 5.0 machine control system
Both ITM machine exhibits were on display with the new Control 5.0 machine control system. Control 5.0 is a prerequisite for using knitlink, the hub for Mayer & Cie's digital applications. In this function, the machine control system attracted interest from various large customers.

In the standard SmartControl version, as shown in Istanbul, a so-called Smart Knob is attached to each machine foot. From there, all the functions that the machine operator needs for his work are available. More in-depth settings, such as those made by the knitting manager, are only possible from a mobile device. Any number of Mayer & Cie. machines can be operated from this at the same time.

knithawk
knithawk, a tool for optical defect detection, inspects the knitted fabric as it is produced. It sits in the single jersey machine directly at the knitting point. If knithawk detects a serious or recurring error, the machine is stopped. The tool also creates an error log.

Machine-specific upgrade and conversion kits
With its upgrade kits, Mayer & Cie. brings technological innovations to existing machines. These range from machine-specific upgrades, such as the Performance Kit for existing Relanit 3.2 models to the Senso Blue RS lubrication system.

In addition to the upgrade kits, Mayer & Cie. offers conversion kits for popular machine types. Two are currently available: for the MV4 3.2 II/MBF 3.2 and the S4-3.2 II/ SF4-3.2 III.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, applauds the U.S. House of Representatives for passing the Wastewater Infrastructure Pollution Prevention and Environments Safety (WIPPES) Act (H.R. 2964). The WIPPES Act, which creates national standards for “Do Not Flush” labeling for non-flushable wipes, passed out of the House Committee on Energy and Commerce in December of 2023, and on June 12, it cleared the House floor in a bipartisan vote. The bill now awaits consideration in the Senate Science, Commerce, and Energy Committee.

This bipartisan legislation is intended to address the growing problem of sewer system clogs caused by improper disposal of consumer wipes that are not intended to be disposed of in toilets. This federal solution is the result of a years-long industry collaboration with wastewater operators which has resulted in the passage of similar legislation in seven states. The WIPPES Act will create a national standard based on existing state laws to ensure non-flushable wipes will carry prominent “Do Not Flush” labeling on packaging.

“INDA has championed this legislation for the past two years and we are encouraged to see it pass out of the House. We extend our thanks to the bill sponsors, our industry and wastewater partners, and INDA members as we take another step forward to make “Do Not Flush” labeling nationwide,” said Wes Fisher, Director of Government Affairs.

The WIPPES Act lead sponsors in the House are Representative Lisa McClain (R-MI) and Representative Mary Peltola (D-AK) and the bill was introduced in the Senate by Senator Jeff Merkley (D-OR) and Senator Susan Collins (R-ME).