From the Sector

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) is expanding its product portfolio by adding an elastic variant of its flexible superabsorbers for modern wound dressings. These superabsorbers increase the comfort level for patients as well as enabling longer wear time, thus reducing the frequency of dressing changes. Further highlights at EWMA include components for more sustainable wound care, PU foams with directly applied silicone adhesives, antimicrobial systems and an innovative hydrophilic debridement foam. The global manufacturer will be welcoming visitors to Exhibition Stand from May 3 – 5 at EWMA 2023.

Freudenberg uses a new technology to manufacture the elastic superabsorbers. Unlike other methods, this technology does not perforate or slit the material, thus achieving a high degree of consistent elasticity. Furthermore, the technology used by Freudenberg bonds the superabsorbent fibers more uniformly with the material, thus enhancing the integrity of this layer in the wound dressing.

Further highlights
Freudenberg is also presenting the M 1714 wound pad component, one example of a sustainable solution that simultaneously delivers on performance. The dressing consists of bio-based fibers and exhibits a smooth wound contact layer. M 1714 has been evaluated for industrial compostability and conforms to ISO 13432. This enables certification of product biodegradability. Further highlights to be presented in Milan include material systems for the antimicrobial treatment of chronic wounds, including systems that do not use active substances.

Wound dressing with silicone adhesive border
With Freudenberg’s silicone coated foams, manufacturers can reduce the number of process steps, thereby avoiding waste, saving energy and simplifying the supply chain. Compared with conventional foam dressings, the Freudenberg foam product also offers higher flexibility for optimal wound bed contouring and reduces the risk of infection by preventing exudate pooling. Freudenberg is showcasing the prototype of a bordered dressing with a silicone adhesive border. In addition, the variant with an extra-strong silicone border enables longer wear time while at the same time ensuring minimal adherence to new skin that forms at the wound edges.

More effective cleansing results and greater patient comfort
Freudenberg is also showcasing an innovative hydrophilic debridement foam. It is ideally suited for use in wound cavities, offers better cleansing results and reduced risk as well as greater patient comfort.

ExxonMobil will present its portfolio of products that enable innovative solutions with sustainability benefits for hygiene and personal care applications at INDEX™23. This portfolio includes ExxonMobil™ PP, Achieve™ Advanced PP (polypropylene) and Vistamaxx™ performance polymers that can be used to create differentiated hygiene and personal care products.

An innovation being presented will be the model baby diaper of which the chassis is made exclusively with ExxonMobil’s extensive portfolio of products. Also on display will be a new version of the high-loft, ultra-soft, silky-smooth nonwoven solution for premium hygiene products using a blend of Vistamaxx™ performance polymers, Achieve™ Advanced PP and ExxonMobil™ PP. Developed collaboratively with Reifenhäuser Reicofil, this nonwoven solution delivers sustainability benefits by including ExxonMobil™ PP ISCC PLUS mass balance certified circular polymers using Exxtend™ technology for advanced recycling of plastic waste. Produced efficiently in one step from pellet to nonwoven via high-speed spunbond process, this soft nonwoven is ideal for use in premium diapers, pant-type diapers, feminine care and adult incontinence products.

Fashion for Good welcomes twelve new start-ups to its Global Platform. The selected Innovators will participate in a nine-month innovation programme with bespoke support to validate their technologies in preparation for implementation across the fashion value chain.

The selected innovators represent technologies across Raw Materials, Processing, Traceability & Transparency, Circular Business Models and End of Use.

The selected innovators joining the Fashion for Good 2023 Innovation Programme are: Virent, Inc., ZimoChem Inc, Polybion, Saltico Ltd, Lamoral Coatings B.V., CleanKore LLC, RESPONSIBLE, Qingdao Amino Material Technology Co., Ltd.,Protein Evolution, Inc., DePoly, Ioncell Oy, and SATMA CE.

• Revenue rose to EUR 2.57 bn, while EBITDA declined to EUR 241.9 mn
• Implementation of EUR 70 mn cost reduction program proceeding according to plan
• Largest investment program in the company’s history including the lyocell plant in Thailand and the pulp mill in Brazil implemented on time and within budget
• Outlook: Lenzing expects EBITDA in 2023 to be in a range of EUR 320 mn to EUR 420 mn

The Lenzing Group was increasingly affected by extreme developments on the global energy and raw material markets in the 2022 financial year, in tandem with most of manufacturing industry in Europe. The market environment also deteriorated significantly in the third and fourth quarters, while worsening consumer sentiment placed an additional burden on Lenzing’s business growth.

In the year under review, revenue increased by 16.9 percent year-on-year to reach EUR 2.57 bn, primarily as a result of higher fiber prices. The quantity of fiber sold decreased, while the quantity of pulp sold rose. In addition to lower demand, the earnings trend particularly reflects the increase in energy and raw material costs. Earnings before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization (EBITDA) decreased by 33.3 percent year-on-year to EUR 241.9 mn in 2022. The net result for the year was minus EUR 37.2 mn (compared with EUR 127.7 mn in the 2021 financial year), while earnings per share stood at minus EUR 2.75 (compared with EUR 4.16 in the 2021 financial year).

Outlook
The war in Ukraine and the tighter monetary policy pursued by many central banks to combat inflation will continue to exert pressure on the global economy. The easing of China’s zero-Covid policy could lead to an unexpectedly rapid recovery. However, the IMF has warned that risks remain high overall and projects growth of 2.9 percent in 2023. Exchange rate volatility looks set to continue in regions that are important to Lenzing.

These challenging market conditions are also continuing to weigh on consumer confidence and sentiment in the sectors relevant to Lenzing. The outlook has improved slightly of late, with inventory levels returning to normal across the value chain. Nonetheless, subdued demand remains a source of concern for market players.

Inventories in the bellwether cotton market have diminished recently, although they remain above pre-pandemic levels. A decline in crops is foreseeable in the current 2022/2023 harvest season. The sharp rise in prices on the energy and raw material markets will continue to pose significant challenges for the market.

Overall, earnings visibility remains restricted.

In structural terms, Lenzing expects a continued rise in demand for environmentally friendly fibers in the textile and clothing industry, as well as in the hygiene and medical sectors. Thus, with its “Better Growth” strategy, Lenzing is very well positioned and will continue to drive growth in specialty products, while pursuing its sustainability targets including the transformation from a linear to a circular economy model.

In light of these factors and assuming a further market recovery in the current financial year, the Lenzing Group expects EBITDA in 2023 to be in a range of EUR 320 mn to EUR 420 mn.

• Iconic 200 Series fleece to be the first fabric made from this new process.

Polartec®, a Milliken & Company brand, announces Polartec® Shed Less Fleece, a new milestone in its industry-leading efforts to reduce textile fiber fragment shedding. Shed Less is a process that combines yarn construction, knitting, chemistry, and manufacturing to reduce home laundry fiber fragment shedding by an average of 85%. The first fabric to receive this new technology is the brand’s iconic Polartec® 200 Series Fleece, the modern version of the original PolarFleece® launched in 1981, and in 1993, the first performance fleece knit from yarn made from recycled plastic bottles.

The Shed Less process works by engineering the lofted fibers that give fleece its soft hand the ability to resist breaking and rubbing off during home laundering, cited as one contributing factor to the spread of fibers fragments (commonly referred to as microfibers). Polartec® Shed Less Fleece achieves this while maintaining all of the attributes that continue to make Polartec fleece a staple of midlayer collections - lightweight, breathable and warm.

The brand used the AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists) TM212-2021 test method for fiber fragment release during home laundering. This test was conducted with large sample sizes to account for variability. The testing concluded that Shed Less Fleece reduced fiber fragment shedding by an average of 85% compared to the baseline fabric.

“In 2016 we began looking into how we might test for fiber loss because there wasn’t a lot of research on the issue.” said Aimee LaValley, Polartec Textile Development, Dye and Chemistry Manager. “This led to new products like Polartec Power Air™, new manufacturing processes, as well as our participation in the TextileMission workgroup to study the issue on an interdisciplinary basis.”

TextileMission was a three year collaborative initiative of academia and industry to reduce the impact of textile microplastics funded by the German Federal Ministry of Education and Research. Founding partners include The Association of the German Sporting Goods Industry, Hochschule Niederrhein - University of Applied Science; TU Dresden - Institute of Water Chemistry; Vaude Sport; WWF Germany; Adidas AG; Henkel AG; Miele & CIE; and Polartec, LLC.

Polartec® Shed Less Fleece will be initially launched in the United States and will be available to customers beginning March 1, 2023. The brand plans to apply the Shed Less process to many other industry-leading fabric platforms and manufacturing facilities around the world.

Majocchi, an Italian textile manufacturer, reports that it has achieved functional and visual appeal with its key fabrics since installing Baldwin Technology Co. Inc.’s corona surface treatment technology.  

Based in Tavernerio (Como), Majocchi has a history of being a technological innovator in the textile industry. Within a decade of its conception in 1941, Majocchi became a global supplier of waterproof cotton for rainwear manufacturers. In the 1960s, the company began producing nylon and technical fabrics, which paved the way for it to become a leading provider of textiles for urban fashion, technical workwear and the military today.

Majocchi has partnered with U.S -based Baldwin Technology Co. to utilize its unrivaled corona surface-treatment technology to produce superior wettability and adhesion.  

Corona treatment is a technique that temporarily modifies a substrate’s surface tension  properties. The corona oxidation process improves the penetration and absorption of liquids on cellulosic and synthetic fabrics. Utilizing corona treatment before resin application on fabrics such as lycra and nylon facilitates superior adhesion and resin distribution. As a result, corona-treated fabrics provide exceptional color and tonal quality.  

Majocchi uses Baldwin’s Corona Pure Model to apply polyurethane and acrylic-based coatings to its fabrics. The system allows Majocchi to administer a controllable, uniform coating to achieve the desired functionality and aesthetics.

The system is 2,000 millimeters wide with a discharging station and four ceramic electrodes designed for textile applications with the flexibility of customizing plasma dosage for a given fabric structure, width and process speed. The Corona Pure model allows for fabric treatment up to 300 gr/m² in thickness. The system is customizable, with single-sided and dual-sided treatment capabilities. The “Easy Change” feature allows for a seamless replacing of electrodes and rapid cleaning and removal of fiber and dust residue, maintaining optimal exhaust air flow. The treatment system is built with a swiveling housing mechanism, which provides clearance for changes in textile thickness and protects the ceramic electrodes.

For the first time in two years, global automotive production recorded a significant increase in full-year 2022 with 82.0 million vehicles produced (2021: 77.2 million vehicles) and growth of 6.2%, driven by the regions Asia and North America, but remained below 2019 levels.
Autoneum's revenue in local currencies increased significantly by 8.5%, largely due to inflation-related compensation. In the regions Europe and Asia, Autoneum's production volumes developed below market. Compared to the July 2022 estimate, revenue was around CHF 90 million lower than assumed due to volume factors. The strong fluctuations in production volumes due to vehicle manufacturer supply chain issues continued in 2022 and were exacerbated by the war in Ukraine in Europe and by COVID-related lockdowns in Autoneum's Asian main market China. Consolidated revenue in Swiss francs increased by 6.1% year-on-year to CHF 1 804.5 million (2021: CHF 1 700.4 million) due to the strong Swiss franc.

Revenue development in the regions
In local currencies, revenue of Business Group Europe increased by 2.7%, while production volumes of vehicle manufacturers decreased by 1.3%. The growth in revenue resulted from inflation compensation, while Autoneum's production volumes were significantly lower compared to the previous year. Business Group North America increased its revenue in local currencies by 11.0%. The number of vehicles produced increased by 9.7% year-on-year. Volume development at Autoneum’s North American plants clearly improved compared with 2021 due to the allocation of semiconductors to the vehicle models supplied by Autoneum. Revenue of Business Group Asia declined by 2.7% in local currencies, and thus was significantly below the market (+7.7%). Autoneum's production facilities in its main market China are located in regions that were hit particularly hard by the COVID-related lockdowns. Growth in China was also driven by Chinese vehicle manufacturers, with whom Autoneum generated only little revenue last year.
Business Group SAMEA (South America, Middle East and Africa) achieved hyperinflation-adjusted revenue growth in local currencies of 65.2% year-on-year. This increase was mainly due to inflation compensation and in terms of volume slightly outperformed the market, which grew by 7.5%.

Due to significantly lower production volumes in Autoneum's regions Europe and Asia of around CHF 90 million compared to the half-year estimate and further increases in energy costs in the second half of the year, Autoneum expects the full-year 2022 result to be at the lower end of the guidance published on June 15, 2022.

The full year-end financial statements and the Annual Report 2022 will be presented at the Media Conference on March 1, 2023.

For the SS24 Iluna focuses on the most precious lightness and intangibility with its Ultralight series of jacquardtronic laces reminiscent of the delicacy of Leavers.
This season, responsible developments did not stop at responsible ingredients and processes; in fact, the company focused on the circular economy! The stylistic research started from the company's historical archive, to give life to a collection that revisits the proposals in a "modern classic" key.
 
The company's design team recreated the iconic designs of the line, the heart of the Black Label proposal, ILUNA's signature line offering the finest laces. Focusing on upcycling, the team reworked archival stocks, creating new value through finishings, and reweaving from scratch only the missing widths in order to present a complete, coordinated underwear/nightwear range from allovers to galoons.

For the SS24 season the Iluna team continues its developments with GOTS-certified organic cotton in its galoons and allovers, to add a natural touch to its Green Label line.
Among the ingredients chosen by Iluna Group are: Renycle® and Q-NOVA®, both GRS-certified pre-consumer recycled polyamide yarns in addition to the recycled stretch ROICA™ EF by Asahi Kasei. Among the new technical developments on laces, Iluna then worked on variable elasticity modules, resulting in reinforced edges or zones of differentiated elasticity that can be variously positioned within the laces.
All this results in a comfortable, ultralight product that remains true to a high value of creativity and responsibility. The option is applicable to all the Iluna laces, with modular solutions at the customer's request on fashion items as well, where research continues on FSC-certified pre-dyed viscoses and unexpected metallic gleams with lurex.

Moreover, the continuous path through the new dimension of responsibility continues in several directions: experiments with 16 different natural dyestuffs; and continued investment in technologies that can ensure significant savings in water and energy consumption, including GREENDROP, the new GOTS-certified digital pigment printing system.
From athleisure to fashion, through lingerie to the world of high fashion, Iluna's lace continues to expand its applications, confirming its extreme versatility, remarkable performance and inimitable beauty.

Over the past three years, a dedicated AI development team at BTMA member Shelton Vision has been developing tailored machine learning solutions for the textiles industry.

The aim has been to elevate the detection process and the accuracy of naming and grading subtle defects in textiles, in real time within production environments.

“Big Data ‘off-the-shelf’ systems such as those behind technolgies like facial recognition and Google Maps involve reading many thousands of single images each second and simply take too long to accumulate sufficient data for what’s required in this specific case,” says Shelton Vision CEO and Managing Director Mark Shelton. “A feature of the textile industry is that in many sectors, the product range changes several times within a year and it is not uncommon to have to inspect hundreds, if not thousands of different styles in a year based on precise settings.”

In terms of defect types, he adds, there may typically be over 100 that need to be accurately detected, classified (named) and graded in real time.

“Added to this is the need to ‘filter out’ the random occurrence of ‘non defects’, such as loose threads, lint and dust on the surface – the number of which can be higher than actual defects – and it is clear that a bespoke system is required.”
The development team has consequently established metadata for identifying defect properties, enabling the successful identification of faults from a much smaller number of images.

“The system employs a unique combination of machine learning for automated style training and novel algorithms for defect detection, to provide high quality images for the AI real time defect classification and grading software,” Shelton explains. “Due to the inherent variation in fabric features – raw materials, construction, texture, colour and finishes, as well as the differing product quality standards in value chains and the regional variations in what defects are called – our AI engine uses models built for each individual company or group of companies, or product value chain.”

The AI models are constructed so that the user operatives can populate them with their own data produced by the vision system or by obtaining defect images from another imaging source (eg a mobile phone camera).  

The occurrence of defects is sporadic and many defect types occur infrequently, although when they do, they can have severe consequences. These scenarios re-enforce the need for the AI engine to be quickly set up and able to operate accurately with limited data sets of typically between 30 and 50 good quality images per defect type.

A further feature is a tool enabling the user to periodically ‘clean up’ the AI data during the set up phase. This is used to resolve conflicting data and to correct mis-named images.

Generally, the highest cost component of fabric production is the raw material and in addition to finished product inspection, a cost effective use for vision systems is in process operation.

Generally, the highest cost component of fabric production is the raw material and in addition to finished product inspection, a cost effective use for vision systems is in process operation.

“There is a need for the real time detection of defects that are being created in separate processes, such as printing or coating and for real time automated systems that can accurately determine the defects and their severity and provide a reliable signal for an operative to rectify the issue, This can result in considerable savings.

Prior to Shelton introducing powerful customised machine vision and real time defect classification, the only systems available were those that required manual sifting through vast numbers of images, which included both real defects and ‘non defect’ images. The task was very often overwhelming and did not provide much benefit beyond manual fabric inspection.

Toray Industries, Inc., announced that it has combined nanotechnology and fiber technology to create a cross-shaped polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) nanopore fiber that efficiently adsorbs pathogenic proteins in the blood.

The company developed this fiber by employing its PMMA hollow fiber membrane spinning technology. Changing the nanopore size on the surface and inside the fiber makes it possible to control the types of protein that this material adsorbs. This could become a fundamental blood purification technology for a range of protein adsorption columns that cause diseases.

The fiber’s cross-shaped cross section has a larger surface area than fibers with round ones. This provides much better contact between the blood and fiber and significantly enhances protein adsorption efficiency.

Toray is the only company to have commercialized a PMMA hollow-fiber membrane artificial kidney for dialysis treatment. Its new nanopore fiber benefits from PMMA’s good protein adsorption and biocompatibility. Using the structural formation of a stereocomplex from two PMMA types entangled spirally during the spinning process to form the fiber shape, Toray made it possible for the fiber itself to develop pores of several to dozens of nanometers. Depending on the pore size, large proteins cannot go inside the pores. If they are too small, they are not trapped. This enables selective adsorption of moderately sized proteins trapped in pores.

The fiber pore sizes are adjustable to the diameters of target proteins for a range of diseases. These include inflammatory proteins in sepsis, autoantibodies in autoimmune diseases, and causative proteins in chronic illnesses. Toray’s technology is thus fundamental to developing disease-causing protein adsorption columns to purify blood.

Toray’s cross-shaped cross section suppresses inter-fiber adhesion, increasing the surface area per volume and enabling highly efficient protein adsorption. For blood purification applications, higher capacity adsorption columns increase blood removal amounts from the body, which can be especially stressful for the elderly and children. The new fiber’s highly efficient protein adsorption should contribute to compact, high-performance protein adsorption columns.