From the Sector

WEIDMANN GmbH in Süßen is known worldwide as a specialist for the finishing of fiber and down-proof articles and woven industrial fabrics. Customers particularly appreciate the company's reliability and flexibility with regard to their individu-al requirements, and consistently high quality of its products. The Swabian textile manufacturer finishes premium fabrics, mainly for the bedding industry, using the latest technology and in an environmentally conscious manner.

The complex production and finishing processes for high-quality fabrics require a reliable and efficient machine technology. With this in mind, WEIDMANN has always relied on the proven stenter technolo-gy from BRÜCKNER. For many decades, the German textile machinery manufacturer has been a world leader in the con-struction of production lines for the finishing of classical textiles, woven industrial  fabrics, nonwovens, glass fabrics and floor coverings. In addition to stenters, the company's production program also in-cludes coating lines, relaxation dryers, sanfor lines, continuous dyeing lines as well as ovens for the bonding of nonwovens and other special lines. All machines are produced 100% in-house in Germany.

Both companies continuously invest in new and innovative technology in order to be successful and competitive today and in the future. Only Recently, a completely newly developed BRÜCKNER stenter was installed in the ultra-modern plant at WEIDMANN. During the intensive project engineering phase it soon became clear which features are of special importance for their daily production requirements:

• uniform moisture distribution in the machine entry and during pick-up of the specialized   chemicals in the finishing padder before the thermoprocess
• weft-straight fabric flow with minimized residual distortion
• very good accessibility for maintenance and daily cleaning
• sensor technology and automation of setting parameters for energy optimization
• heat-recovery with hot water generation for the dye house
• the line must be fully Industry 4.0 capable

Textechno reports launch of a new standard for the drapability and deformability of fabrics and non-wovens: ISO 21765

World market leader for precision testing equipment Textechno and their partner SAERTEX, global market leader in non-crimp fabrics (NCF) are proud to announce that the newly developed international standard ISO 21765:2020 to quantify material behaviour in terms of drapability and deformability was recently published by ISO.

The new standard ISO 21765 allows the world-wide comparable measurement of all relevant parameters regarding the deformability and drapability of all kinds of fabrics, including woven fabrics and NCFs as well as knitted fabrics and non-wovens on Textechno´s precision testing equipment DRAPETEST. This can be very useful in the carbon fibre recycling since one of the most efficient applications of recycled carbon fibres will be in non-wovens.

This is the first testing instrument world-wide to quantify not only the force which is required for deforming a fabric, but also the various defects such as gaps, undulation, or wrinkles which can arise due to the deformation.

In the frame of a publicly funded project which started in 2011, Textechno developed the award-winning automatic drapability tester DRAPETEST along with other partners, amongst them SAERTEX.  

Dietmar Möcke, CTO at SAERTEX says: „With ISO 21765, we finally have a standardized testing method with world-wide validity. It allows us to provide our customers with comparable and reproducible measurement values regarding the draping characteristics of our products.”

Ulrich Mörschel, Managing Director of Textechno adds: “We are grateful for the support from all around the world allowing us to establish the new ISO standard. The standard finally fills a gap in the testing methods for fabrics both in the fields of textiles and composites.”

Dr. Michael Effing, Managing Director of AMAC GmbH and Senior Advisor to Textechno: “A lot of research is dedicated to new production technologies of composites, non-crimp fabrics and classical fabrics for thermosets have with 33 % a significant market share in the production of all composite materials. The application of the new standard for non-wovens from recycled carbon fibres comes perfectly on time for this market sector which will gain more and more importance within the next years.

Not only since 2021 has sustainability been a topic high on society’s agenda. And yet the importance of sustainability for consumers and companies has once again increased sharply as a result of the Corona pandemic, as numerous studies confirm. Then why is it often so difficult to implement this conviction in everyday life? One of the biggest obstacles to sustainable consumer behaviour is the lack of availability of alternatives.

In addition to changing consumer demands, the EU Commission's recent decision on the single-use plastics directive is also prompting many nonwovens manufacturers to look at alternative solutions. Kelheim Fibres is exhibiting at this year's INDEX in Geneva and online with bio-based fibers that offer an alternative to synthetic materials in a wide range of applications. The Bavarians have decades of experience in the nonwovens and hygiene sectors and work on individual customer-specific innovations.

"We want to make it easy for consumers to choose an environmentally friendly option. That’s the case when bio-based solutions offer the same performance as synthetic products," said Matthew North, Commercial Director at Kelheim Fibres." Our fibre technology allows us to create just that: unlike natural fibres, which are available already in fibre form and can only be treated on the surface, we can engineer the properties of our fibres they need for specific applications by specifically intervening in the production process. That way we combine nature - our fibres are made of wood pulp - with performance."

Kelheim's special fibres are made of wood pulp from sustainably managed sources, are produced in Kelheim in an environmentally friendly way and are fully biodegradable at the end of their product life. Kelheim Fibres is the first viscose fibre manufacturer in the world with an EMAS validated Environmental Management System and was awarded a dark green/light green shirt in the most recent Canopy HotButton-Ranking.

• FILO, 29th-30th September 2021, booth C5

Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei has been invited to showcase at Filo fair, the international exhibition of orthogonal weaving yarns for clothing and furnishings, circular knitwear and technical textiles, in a new special area, a dedicated open space reserved to sustainable fibers that will allow visitors to discover all their production cycle and performances, in full relax and transparency.

Bemberg™, an exceptional fiber made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linters pre-consumer materials and converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process, will brings to Filo its history, experience, know-how and market partnerships to prove its versatility and design-driven look and touch Last but not least we are talking about a true circular economy-oriented ingredient, with certified sustainable performance: Bemberg™ is biodegradable and compostable material as verified by the INNOVHUB 3rd party test and it has GRS (Global Reycled Standard) certification from Textile Exchange proving recycling authenticity.

Bemberg™ application history starts with high-quality suit lining, but today we can find it in many other applications such as fashion couture, outerwear, innerwear, bedding, and sportswear where its amazing unique touch and quality is offering a distinctive performance.

And to prove all of this, Bemberg™ will be at Filo showing some selected fabric innovation, and three responsible-driven designers representing different and complementary part of contemporary consumer wardrobe: ZEROBARRACENTO, Maurizio Miri and WAXEWUL - who have all chosen Bemberg™ fiber to create special collections. Three different ways to see and represent how sustainability and style – even if completely different ones – together can be highly successful, performing and interesting to the new consumer.

ZEROBARRACENTO, a gender-neutral emerging outerwear brand focusing on zero-waste product development, selects Bemberg™ for two fundamental reasons: firstly, from a stylistic point of view for its extreme versatility: in the various collections we have adopted it to create Kimonos, padded jackets, wrap dresses as well as for the interiors of our garments, which are intended to be soft embraces for total physical and mental comfort. The second but no less important reason is that this fibre has circular values in line with their zero-waste commitment.

The concept of the brand "Maurizio Miri" has a strong personality and a clear intent: to create a product that stimulates the wearer towards beauty. A garment should not simply be worn, but it has also to create a perfect symbiosis with the person wearing it and generate an exchange of positive energies. The purpose is to make the individual feel in perfect harmony with their own image. With this aim in mind, the designer selects extremely precious Bemberg™ linings for their sophisticated tailor jackets. 

Finally, WAXEWUL, a brand of sartorial clothing and artisan accessories with an urban-afro soul that has environmental and social sustainability as its basic ethics. WAXEWUL will bring to Filo its brand-new product, the J_Hood Bag: a doubleface jacket with a comfortably removable hood that can be transformed into a finely hidden doubleface bag. An exclusive, innovative and sustainable garment with minimal impact on the environment made of BemBAZIN™ - a new generation of bazin created, patented and produced by Brunello which is composed by the high-tech and responsible fibers of Bemberg™ - on one side and of wax on the other, traceable and certified, guaranteeing a reduction in waste (two jackets in one) and a long-life cycle.

As the role of lingerie in fashion and athleisure continues to augment, the desire for garments that will meet a new set of values for contemporary consumer lifestyles will flourish. Iluna Group comes back to Interfilière Paris with an important goal: to relaunch the qualities and dimensions of sustainability.

Iluna’s new path begins with the investment in the renewal of machines, which allow it to fly higher in terms of high-tech developments, quality, definition, effects of yarns and patterns. The journey into the new dimension of responsible quality continues with ad hoc developments in the field of GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified recycled yarns, aimed at unprecedented effects both in look, in performance and in the hands of fabrics. The cord yarn is a precious yarn with a ROICA™ EF premium stretch yarn core, GRS certified and developed with 50% of pre-consumer waste materials content - double, covered with an equally recycled shiny thread; the bright and translucent is instead to add brilliant effects so far not possible with a GRS yarn.

The printing processes are also born from this constant search for innovation towards new materials and new techniques, becoming more and more sustainable: Global Recycle Standard (GRS)-certified sublimation printing and register printing carrying Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certification.

The Swiss group presents three creative inspirations to explore new shapes, colors, materials and define a new offer featuring a variety of solutions and ideas.
A tribute to health and to balance with nature, to the advanced goldsmith craftsmanship and to the effortless sophistication of industrial luxury: the FW 2022-23 collection by Riri Group is a true kaleidoscope of shapes, colors and materials, where three different creative inspirations meet – Biophilic, Stones&Gold and Industrial Luxe – for a high-end line of accessories.

All three paths are the result of state-of-the-art techniques, of an R&D effort and of the renowned expertise of the Swiss group. Part of the offer is also a selection of pieces by Cobrax Metal Hub, among which stand out buckles and locks with peculiar shapes and finishing.

Looking to the new season with a positive and enthusiastic attitude, the Group continues to work towards an increasing sustainability when it comes to products and processes. The collection, in fact, is a further step toward Riri’s path of green responsibility that the company has taken to bring actual improvement in its sustainable performance. This year, Riri Group published its first Sustainability Report, calculated in compliance with Global Reporting Initiative Standard (GRI), and adopted recycled polyester as production standard for zips’ tapes.

Biophilic
A way to honor love for life, this line emphasizes the importance of physical and mental wellbeing, answering the questions raised during the challenges faced in the last year. Balance with nature becomes a concrete product circularity operation resorting to manufacturing processes with a low environmental impact and to organic and biodegradable materials. Among them stands out recycled polyester for zips which is Global Recycled Standard (GRS) certified, Global Organic Textile Standard certified organic cotton and other alternative fibers, such as nettle, a natural resource that is a great alternative to synthetic fibers. Rivets, zips, buttons and metal components are made of stainless steel, which guarantees durability and resistance, 100% recycled copper and aluminum – light, ductile and resistant to oxidation. Among the most interesting solutions are rice peel powder – used on buttons’ overseals – and eco-sustainable thermoplastic polyurethane, obtained from renewable raw sources.

Stones & Gold
Sophistication and advanced craftsmanship mark the pieces of this creative path which, inspired by goldsmith and glyptic craft tradition, reveals a delicate sense of positivity and richness. Gems, lapis lazuli, marble, and mother-of-pearl are protagonists of a refined selection of accessories designed to amaze and catch the eye, resembling actual jewels. Essential the use of gold, especially in its liquid form: dominating zips and buttons’ finishes, this precious and versatile metal becomes a decorative feature on printed tape.

Industrial luxe
The third proposal embodies the unique style and timeless elegance that have always defined Riri’s products, embellishing them with new engineering details which makes them very relevant. The accessories come with golden and black finishes, both glossy and matt, and explore shapes developed to bring life to a range of luxury accessories with a sophisticated industrial aesthetics. A dominating role goes to stainless steel, along with a selection of impactful and elegant tapes which includes jacquard options, for a retro-futuristic look that is revealed also through the use of mechanical elements, such as screws and etched metal sheets, and in the clean and boxy shapes of pullers and buttons.

Royal DSM, a global science-based company in Nutrition, Health and Sustainable Living, and SABIC, a global leader in the chemical industry, announced a collaboration to create recycled-based Dyneema®. Through a joint pilot with multiple CirculariTeam® members, the manufacturing and usage of Dyneema® using mixed plastic waste as feedstock (via mass balance approach) will be successfully demonstrated. It is an important step toward the future goal of fully closing the loop by delivering Dyneema® made from ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMwPE) waste. This collaboration underlines DSM’s and SABIC’s efforts to accelerate a circular economy for materials.

By working together with members of CirculariTeam®, DSM will produce recycled-based Dyneema® made using SABIC’s certified circular ethylene as a pilot project in both a sailing rope and a pelagic trawl net application. The circular ethylene, from SABIC’s TRUCIRCLE™ portfolio, uses mixed plastic waste as feedstock (mass balance approach), which not only contributes to preventing valuable plastic from becoming waste and the avoidance of carbon emissions compared to incineration, but it will also help preserve fossil resources. These pilots are an important early-stage milestone in the journey toward making fully circular Dyneema® from HMPE post-production and post-consumer waste.

Jon Mitchell, Managing Director at Marlow Ropes: “We’re proud to be one of the first manufacturers to integrate recycled-based Dyneema® within our products and demonstrate the material’s feasibility. By collaborating with materials science pioneers such as DSM and SABIC, we are able to create products that not only deliver superlative functional performance but also have a lower environmental impact. Our products are trialed and tested by professional offshore sailing teams including 11th Hour Racing Team, a proud partner of ours at Marlow, with whom we share a progressive approach to seeking sustainable solutions: no more business as usual."

Klaus Walther, Managing Director at Gleistein: “Warm congratulations to DSM and SABIC for pushing the boundaries of science to deliver a truly unique product. We’re proud that our ropes can be produced from what once was typical household plastic waste. This is an important stepping stone towards becoming circular. It will enable our customer Maritiem BV to further develop high-tech fishing gear whilst contributing to the circular economy. Not to forget Cornelis Vrolijk Fishing Company, who again illustrate their commitment to Corporate Social Responsibility by introducing this concept in fishery.”

Materials science innovation pioneer Hologenix, LLC, whose CELLIANT® infrared technology is an ingredient in brands across many categories, has another important partner, bedding specialist Centa-Star. Based in Stuttgart, Germany and available throughout Europe, Centa-Star has introduced a new line of “Regeneration” duvets and pillows infused with CELLIANT mineralized fibers.  

Regeneration products, thanks to CELLIANT, are thermo-regulating with maximum breathability, promoting stronger performance, faster recovery and better sleep.

CELLIANT thermo-reactive minerals absorb the body heat and convert it into infrared energy, which is reflected back to the body.  The resulting temporary increase in blood flow and local circulation helps regulate body temperature and increases tissue oxygen. This leads to a more restful, restorative sleep as well as faster recovery and stronger performance.

Centa-Star Regeneration products are available online throughout Europe in selected department stores in Germany, Austria and Switzerland, including KaDeWe Berlin, Betten Rid in Munich, Karstadt or Kaufhof stores, in well-sorted furniture shops, in upscale specialist shops.

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, announced that it has appointed Thomas Bucher as its new Chief Financial Officer (CFO) effective 1 October 2021, replacing Roland Waibel who will retire.

Thomas Bucher has a long career in Finance, having held CFO roles with leading industrial and services companies as well as senior Finance roles in the chemical sector. He joins Archroma from Alpiq Holding AG, where he has been Group CFO and a Member of the Executive Management Board since 2015. Prior to Alpiq, Thomas Bucher was Group CFO at Gategroup for 6 years, where he supported the company’s listing and subsequent strategic repositioning, and before that he held a number of senior Finance roles at Ciba Specialty Chemicals over more than 12 years.

Chief Executive Officer Heike van de Kerkhof comments: “We are very happy to have Thomas Bucher join us, and add his financial expertise to support our agenda towards confirming Archroma as an undisputed leader in innovative and sustainable specialty chemicals, supported by solid and profitable growth.”

She adds: “I want to thank Roland Waibel for his many contributions since the beginning of Archroma in 2013. He has played an important role helping the company deliver on our growth whilst building a strong finance expert team and expertise at Archroma.”

• Transformation program and improving order situation show first successes
• Sales up 8.8% to €496.7 million compared with first half of previous year
• Adjusted EBITDA improves by 70.7% to €71.7 million
• Positive business development led to forecast increase on July 13, 2021

While the past fiscal year 2020 was still characterized by a Corona-related slump in orders in many business areas of SGL Carbon, demand picked up again in the first six months of 2021. Accordingly, Group sales increased by 8.8% to €496.7 million in H1 2021 (H1 2020: €456.5 million).

The Carbon Fibers and Composite Solutions Business Units particularly contributed to the €40.2 million increase in sales. Carbon Fibers contributed €166.4 million to Group sales, especially benefiting from increased demand from the automotive market segment. In the Composite Solutions Business Unit, the increase in sales of 52.4% to €60.2 million was also primarily based on the recovering demand from the automotive industry.

With sales of €221.2 million, the Graphite Solutions business area contributed around 44.5% of SGL Group sales. The 3.8% increase in the division's sales was particularly due to the positive development in the important markets of the LED, semiconductor and automotive industries.

Transformation program:
The restructuring and transformation process initiated at SGL Carbon made a significant contribution to the Company's positive sales and earnings performance. In addition to leaner and more efficient structures as well as a reorganization of the business units with responsibility for results, a large number of improvements and cost initiatives in all business units and sites have contributed to the success of the ongoing transformation program.

Forecast increase:
Due to pleasing business development in the first half of the year as well as transformation successes, SGL Carbon raised its forecast for fiscal year 2021 on July 13, 2021. For the financial year 2021, the company now expects consolidated sales of around €1.0 billion (previously: €920 - 970 million). In line with developments in the first half of 2021 and the results from the transformation, adjusted EBITDA for 2021 is expected to be between €130 - 140 million (previously: €100 - 120 million). Accordingly, a slightly positive net profit is now forecasted for fiscal year 2021 (previously: €-20 million to €0).