From the Sector

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber through finished products, issued a statement from NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas today in response to the administration’s plan to institute a 90-day deferral on MFN tariffs,  as reported by numerous press outlets.

The reported plan being pushed by the importing and retailing industries would defer certain tariffs, including those on finished apparel products. It is an ill-advised policy that will hurt the U.S. textile industry at the very time it is answering the call of the nation to produce medical supplies to battle the coronavirus pandemic. 

These unnecessary tariff concessions would benefit importers and retailers at the direct expense of manufacturers on the front lines of the COVID-19 response and send a demoralizing message.

Tariff deferrals would severely exacerbate ramifications for the U.S. economy, manufacturers and workers and open the floodgates for imports.

If the U.S. government makes tariff concessions during this crisis, it will be inviting a virtual tsunami of imports further devastating domestic manufacturing as it attempts to regain its footing.     

We urge the administration to abandon any moves to defer tariffs on finished products. It would only serve to allow importers to exploit the current crisis, while dealing a severe blow to U.S. manufacturing and its workers.  

NCTO is a Washington, DC-based trade association that represents domestic textile manufacturers, including artificial and synthetic filament and fiber producers. 

• U.S. employment in the textile supply chain was 585,240 in 2019. 
• The value of shipments for U.S. textiles and apparel was $75.8 billion in 2019. 
• U.S. exports of fiber, textiles and apparel were $29.1 billion in 2019. 
• Capital expenditures for textile and apparel production totaled $2.5 billion in 2018, the last year for which data is available.

Perlon®, a Serafin Group company, is continuing to produce its’ quality filaments at all five sites for its’ customers in the current challenging climate. Production in China has been operating again as normal since the beginning of March after having to be temporarily halted due to the spreading of Covid-19. Production is now back up to 100%.

Production in Germany at our sites in Munderkingen (Baden-Wuerttemberg), Bobingen (Bavaria) and Wald-Michelbach (Hesse) as well as in the USA is continuing to run without any constraints. Therefore all sites are working to full capacity. In particular in the paper machine clothing area is showing an increase in sales which offsets a reduced demand in other areas such as automotive.

To manage the current situation responsibly, all hygiene measures at all our sites have been significantly increased so that the employees are protected as well as possible. There is hand sanitizer in every department and all of our production lines are disinfected several times a day. It has been explained to employees, what they should do in the current climate in order to minimise risk. Where possible employees are able to work from home. Perlon® has approximately 650 employees in Germany, over 80 in the USA and more than 100 in China.

High demand for monofilament for the paper industry
The paper industry is currently experiencing a rise in demand worldwide – and Perlon® is also benefitting from this, as customers need even more high quality monofilament and twisted yarns for the tensioning of paper machines. For the paper machine clothing field, Perlon® produced filaments are used to manufacture press fabric, which can be used either as a conveyor belt or for moisture removal on a paper production line. Due to the high mechanical strain through the presses, polyamide monofilaments or twisted yarns are therefore almost always used. Paper industry customers have increased their production recently. Whether it’s boxes to cope with the increased demand for online deliveries or paper for hygiene purposes (which everybody can identify with), there is an increased demand worldwide. The dental, hygiene and food preparation fields are also experiencing increased demand. To this end, Perlon® offers filaments for the manufacture of toothbrushes and high quality cleaning system brushes.

A close eye on quality with the Eye Compact II

Eltex of Sweden AB, a member of TMAS, the Swedish textile machinery association, reports solid success with its Eye Compact II yarn monitoring system for carpet tufting machines, since its launch at ITMA 2019 in Barcelona last June.

The sensor units of the Eye Compact II,Brian Hicks, Eltex CEO explains, have been successfully miniaturised to approximately a third of the size of those with the established Compact system, allowing them to be mounted on the very latest high speed tufting machines that are graphics driven, with limited space at the puller rollers.

Early stage prevention
Unlike the sensor systems that are employed at later positions on tufting machines – in order to detect faults in the formed fabric – Eye Compact II technology is about prevention at an earlier stage, through the detection of missing yarns.

Critically, the sensors need to be installed after the last puller roller and before the tufting needles, because otherwise the roller could still be feeding yarns that will not been successfully taken by the needles. This is only possible with the extremely slim Eye Compact II units, which can also be positioned either above or below the rollers.

Guarantee
Another benefit is that the sensors can be arranged more closely together, with each of them monitoring 16 yarn positions, and their robustness ensures that once fitted, there is little the technicians or operators need to do.

Automatic
The Eye Compact II system easily learns pattern changes and displays the number of yarns involved to the operator for confirmation, and different parameters for different yarns groups can also even be set if required. With its research and development work primarily carried out at its headquarters in Osby, Sweden, and North American sales and service operated from its subsidiary in South Carolina, the manufacturing plant of Eltex has been located at Templemore in Ireland since 1976, providing significant advantages in terms of high flexibility and logistical services to customers on both sides of the Atlantic.

For the sixth time now, Oerlikon Nonwoven will be showcasing market- and customer-oriented solutions for hygiene, medical, filtration and other technical applications at the globally-leading nonwovens trade fair INDEX in Geneva, Switzerland. Between March 31 and April 3, 2020, visitors to the trade fair can convince themselves of the Neumünsterbased systems constructor’s extensive product and process know-how.

Comprehensive spunbond portfolio – always the right solution
Oerlikon Nonwoven meanwhile has a very broad range of spunbond technology products and services. The process for manufacturing geotextiles from polyester or polypropylene has been optimized; it is characterized by high production capacities and yields, with simultaneously low energy consumption for producing benchmark nonwoven products.

For the manufacture of hygiene nonwovens, Oerlikon Nonwoven offers its new QSR (Quality Sized Right) systems. Here, the benefits of the Chinese machine construction partner’s nonwoven formation are integrated into the complete solution. The advantage for nonwovens producers: highly competitive solutions at attractive prices with comparably low investment.

Cost-efficiently manufacturing meltblown nonwovens
New, unique and highly sophisticated filter media can be easily and efficiently manufactured thanks to Oerlikon Nonwoven’s optimized meltblown technology. Whether as a stand-alone system with one or several positions, as ‘plug & produce’ installations for already existing systems or in conjunction with other technologies: the Oerlikon Nonwoven meltblown process already enables the cost-efficient manufacture of meltblown nonwovens with the quality requirements of tomorrow. Ever more producers are choosing the meanwhile extensively tried-and-tested and consistently further-developed Oerlikon Nonwoven meltblown solutions.

Airlaid technology for the nonwovens of tomorrow
Pulp or cellulose fibers as raw material for manufacturing nonwovens are currently virtually unrivaled with regards to sustainability and environmental compatibility. The Oerlikon Nonwoven airlaid process is the ideal solution for processing this raw material into high-end products for a wide range of applications. Today, there is huge demand for manufacturing solutions for high-quality, lightweight airlaid nonwovens with economically attractive production speeds and system throughputs. In this area, the patented Oerlikon Nonwoven formation process – which also permits the homogeneous mixing of the most diverse raw materials, while simultaneously guaranteeing superb evenness and homogeneous fiber laying – is setting standards even for nonwovens with low running meter weights. And the benefits of this technology are also increasingly gaining significance in sustainable recycling applications.

P&G patented PHANTOM technology from Teknoweb Materials
Also being showcased at the trade fair stand is the P&G patented PHANTOM technology from Teknoweb Materials, Oerlikon Nonwoven’s strategic partner for hygiene products and wipes. The PHANTOM technology is released to Teknoweb Materials by P&G in worldwide exclusive license. The PHANTOM technology is the superior dry laid alternative technology for manufacturing wet wipes from pulp and polymer fibers, for example. Compared to conventional, known processes, this technology offers superior performances with cost advantage in much more eco-friendly products. Dispensing with hydroentanglement renders subsequent drying of the material redundant. Targeted process management allows the optimal setting of the relevant product parameters such as softness, tenacity, dirt absorption and liquid absorption.

At this year’s trade fair „SIMAC Tanning Tech“, PFAFF Industrial, together with DÜRKOPP ADLER and the regional agency DAP ITALIA, will present the latest solutions for shoe and leather processing. The fair will take place in Milan from 19th to 21st of February 2020. The joint booth is located in Hall 14, No. C09.

PFAFF News and Highlights:

PFAFF 3806
New integrated workplace for closing rub-down seams, such as heel-, front- and side seams on street shoes, slippers and leg boots. The PFAFF 3806 is equipped with two-thread chainstitch high-speed seamer head PFAFF 5487 with drop feed and variable top feed, high lift and adjustable top feed pressure, which ensures consistently high quality. Reinforcing tapes, which may be applied from top impart greater durability to the seams and prevent fine leathers from being pulled out of shape. Automatic control sequences (via parameter or photocell) reduce the manual handling and increase the process reliability and output.

PFAFF 1591
On the fair PFAFF INDUSTRIAL will show its electronic single-needle shoe post-bed machine with touch-control panel, new thread trimmer for short thread ends (< 5 mm) and new programmable thread tension. The key benefit of “programmable thread tension” is that suitable thread tensions can be applied for different material thicknesses and/or for different seam sequences (as these can be programmed on electronic machines). The tensions can be accessed and/or set via a knee switch or stitch counting. Manual setting of the thread tension, as is common with current shoe machines, is no longer necessary with the programmed thread tension.

PFAFF 8303i
The ot-air taping machine for welding continuous seams on water-resistant, waterproof and breathable materials will be exhibited as “shoe version” with very small/slim post from back. Effortlessly shoe uppers with small radii can be taped. The slim post and the differential feed (via two separate drive motors for the top and bottom feed roller) ensures absolute neat seams and a requested fullness und shaped parts.
 

To Accelerate Public-Private Cooperation in Supply Chain Transparency

Asia Pacific Rayon (APR) has joined the first neutral and public traceability platform capable of visualising blockchain-based supply chain data from multiple companies and sources. It aims to help businesses across industries respond to consumer demands for ethical and environmentally friendly products.
The neutral and safe space for collaboration is provided by the World Economic Forum and created in collaboration with Everledger, Lenzing Group, TextileGenesis™, and the International Trade Centre. APR will contribute to Phase 2 of the initiative which seeks to incorporate more data sources.

“APR has started harnessing the potential of enterprise blockchain technology to enable customers to trace finished products back to the plantation forest origins on a smartphone app. To be able now to connect our data to other similar industry initiatives is a natural next step for APR, as is extending the benefits of our upstream traceability to the rest of the textile value chain.

Enhancing Follow Our Fibre with New Mill Sustainability Dashboard

Launched in mid-2019, APR’s blockchain-based Follow Our Fibre allows customers and stakeholders to scan its viscose product with a user-friendly app to access data that traces the product’s journey from plant nursery to viscose manufacturing and on to seaports. In October 2019, APR announced a collaboration with TrusTrace to integrate Follow Our Fibre with the latter’s T-Trace module. This helps connect APR’s upstream data to downstream textile value chain actors such as yarn and fabric customers and fashion brands.

More recently, a sustainability dashboard tracking key mill environmental performance indicators has been added to Follow Our Fibre. The dashboard presents APR’s performance in its first year of operations where a baseline has been established for quarterly tracking, reporting and continuous improvement.
The performance indicators follow key industry standards being set by ZDHC for Man-Made Cellulosic Fibres (MMCF), as well as the European Union Best Available Technologies (EU BAT).

Cepi, the European association representing the paper industry, has announced a new alliance called 4evergreen. The aim of the alliance is to boost the contribution of fibre-based packaging in a circular and sustainable economy that minimises climate and environmental impact. The alliance will increase awareness about the benefits of fibre-based packaging materials, advocate for EU legislation supporting product design for recyclability and call for the development of optimised collection systems and appropriate recycling infrastructures.

The rise of environmental awareness and consumer concerns, as well as the increase of packaging focused regulation, such as the Single Use Plastics Directive, have helped companies to accelerate the development of alternative packaging materials including fibre-based packaging with a view to helping consumers make more climate-friendly choices.

4evergreen was created as a forum to engage and connect industry members from across the fibre-based packaging value chain, from paper and board producers to packaging converters, brand-owners and retailers, technology and material suppliers, waste sorters and collectors.

“The 4evergreen alliance is important because it was born from an initiative of consumer product industry leaders who recognize the huge potential of fibre-based packaging in a circular economy” said Susanne Oste, VP Innovation and Sustainability at Sappi. “Their customers want sustainable packaging and fibre-based products provide the most climate-friendly solution available. Sappi is proud to play a part in this industry alliance. We have been investing heavily for more than 10 years in cutting edge research into real solutions for the problems that confront our customers. A recent success is the launch of the only fully recyclable confectionary wrapper on the market today.”

Domotex, the world's largest trade fair for floor coverings, will take place in Hanover from 10 to 13 January 2020. Saurer Twisting Solutions is looking forward to welcoming customers and visitors at their Booth B35 in Hall 11.

Automation solutions made to measure for processing BCF yarns
At Domotex, Saurer Twisting Solutions will present customer-optimised solutions for process automation and product cost reduction. Automation of the material transport systems offers significant customer benefits. This is because these systems are individually adapted to the needs of clients and enable an optimum material flow throughout the entire twisting mill.

Easier and faster with new machine generation
Amongst other things, the new carpet yarn machine, the CarpetCabler CarpetTwister 1.10 and the automated guided vehicle PackDrive will be presented.

Monforts Textilmaschinen GmbH & Co. KG will be providing information on its extensive range of coating and finishing technologies for the production of nonwovens and technical textiles at the forthcoming Techtextil India exhibition.

“India is already a very important market for Monforts and there are exciting prospects ahead for Indian manufacturers of technical textiles, who are well positioned to capitalise on growth opportunities,” says Monforts Head of Denim Hans Wroblowski, who will be at the Monforts stand in Hall 4, booth C52 at the show. “India has one of the largest working-age populations in the world and a complete textile value chain for both natural and synthetic fibres.”

In addition, he adds, India’s government, through its Ministry of Textiles, has been actively promoting the growth of technical textiles through various programmes based on investment promotion, subsidies, the creation of infrastructure and the stimulation of consumption.

As a result, India’s Ministry of Textiles is forecasting that the growth of technical textiles in the country will be over 18% annually in the next few years, from a value of US$16.6 billion in 2018 to US$28.7 billion in 2021.

Value addition

High value-added technical products such as wide-width digital printing substrates, carbon fabrics for high-performance composites, filter media, flame retardant barrier fabrics and heavy-duty membranes are now being coated on Monforts texCoat ranges and finished with the company’s industry-leading Montex stenters.

“Since we acquired the technology that our coating units are based on in 2015, we have made a lot of refinements,” says Hans. “All of these developments are reflected in higher coating accuracy and the resulting quality of the treated fabrics. At the same time, our latest multi-functional coating heads offer an unprecedented range of options, with a wide range of modules available.”

The texCoat user interface is now equipped with the unique Monforts visualisation system and the magnetic doctor blade has greater power reserves. Options include a carbon fibre-reinforced composite coating drum with a more scratch-resistant surface and maximum rigidity and remote control which simplifies exact adjustment for the operator.

Montex stenters in special executions are meanwhile ideal for the drying and finishing of both technical woven fabrics and nonwovens and characterised by high stretching devices in both length and width.

“The European-built Montex range of stenters has earned its leading position in the technical textiles market due to the overall robustness, reliability and economy of these machines,” Hans concludes. “Whatever the intended end-product – and we continue to discover potentially new areas in which technical textiles can be utilised all the time – we have the machine specification and know-how to turn ideas into reality. In India we also benefit from the strong sales and service support of A.T.E. Enterprises.”

Texchtextil India takes place alongside World of Composites at the Bombay Exhibition Centre in Mumbai from November 20-22.

• Acquisition drives market growth
• Additional sales channel for BASF customers and partners
• Access to new materials and technologies for customers of BASF and Sculpteo

To continue to expand its position as a leading service provider in the additive manufacturing sector, BASF New Business GmbH has formally agreed to acquire the online 3D printing service provider Sculpteo. The agreement was signed on November 14, 2019 and is expected to become effective in the next few weeks pending regulatory approval by the relevant authorities. The acquisition of the French 3D printing specialist based in Paris and San Francisco will enable BASF 3D Printing Solutions GmbH, a wholly-owned subsidiary of BASF New Business GmbH, to market and establish new industrial 3D printing materials more quickly. Sculpteo’s management team fully supports the acquisition and will remain in place to provide customers and partners with this expanded service spectrum.

For around a decade already, Sculpteo has operated an online platform with integrated production for the manufacturing of prototypes, individual objects, and serial production components with a range of different additive manufacturing technologies. Customers in various industrial sectors around the world use the Sculpteo service to produce new components rapidly and reliably.

BASF will develop the existing Sculpteo 3D printing platform further into a global network. For customers and partners, BASF 3D Printing Solutions will thus be able to offer an additional channel for marketing their services and expanding their own customer bases.

"Through the acquisition of Sculpteo, we can provide customers and partners with even faster access to our innovative 3D printing solutions. In addition, our customers will benefit from an extended range of services”, explains Dr. Dietmar Bender, Managing Director BASF 3D Printing Solutions. “Together with Sculpteo, we are pursuing our goal of establishing additive manufacturing as a proven technology for industrial mass production", says Bender.

Combining the strengths of both companies will provide Sculpteo's existing customers with access to a more extensive portfolio of 3D printing materials. "We are excited to join the BASF team and thus benefit from BASF’s outstanding R&D to provide our customers with innovative solutions”, says Clément Moreau, CEO and Co-Founder of Sculpteo. Moreau will stay with Sculpteo as CEO.

Beyond this, the Sculpteo Design Studio and BASF’s technical experts will collaborate to be able to support customers in their 3D printing projects from the early planning phase right through to the final printed part. This will enable BASF to offer its customers end-to-end industrial 3D printing solutions.