From the Sector

Hosted in Boston, Massachusetts on 27 September, Global Fashion Summit convened hundreds of esteemed representatives from brands, retailers, NGOs, policy, manufacturers, and innovators to transform ambition into action. The Summit was presented by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), the non-profit organisation that is accelerating the transition to a net positive fashion industry, and marked the first edition of Global Fashion Summit in North America since the forum’s launch in 2009 as a side-event to COP15 in Copenhagen.
 
The Boston edition further explored Global Fashion Agenda’s 2023 editorial theme, ‘Ambition to Action’, while reflecting on and responding to what happened at Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition in June. By bringing Global Fashion Summit to Boston – a renowned hub for technology, innovation, and education - the Summit presented a deeper exploration of the global challenges, differences, and opportunities towards a more sustainable value chain. The Innovation Forum is a key pillar of GFA’s work, making Boston an apt location to showcase pioneering industry solution providers.
 
Attendees heard from over 40 speakers from a range of companies and organisations such as Levi Strauss & Co., Tapestry, Neiman Marcus Group, Thunder Voice Hat, H&M Group, Alice and Olivia, BBC StoryWorks, New Standard Institute, Conservation International, Worldly, Trove, Ceres, Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail Ltd, and many more. This Summit also featured esteemed Indigenous speakers on the programme. View all speakers.
 
The Summit’s second international edition facilitated inspiring thought leadership and exchanges around key themes including: Policy, Finance, and Retail, while also complementing the core priorities of the Fashion CEO Agenda: Respectful and Secure Work Environments, Better Wage Systems, Resource Stewardship, Smart Material Choices, and Circular Systems. The programme featured bold panels, case studies, and leadership roundtables reflecting on topics including: ‘Indigenous Leadership Perspectives’, ‘Exploring Fashion’s ESG Concept’, ‘On The Ground: Adaptation or Mitigation?’, ‘The Global Approach to Circularity’, and ‘Innovation for Value Chain Challenges’.

Global Fashion Summit: Boston Edition also presented an Innovation Forum, enabling small and large companies to meet with 14 sustainable solution providers from across the value chain– equipping them with the concrete tools to expedite meaningful actions. GFS Connect facilitated over 90 connections between fashion companies and exhibitors during the Summit.

Team Jumbo-Visma’s triumphant victories in Europe’s three Grand Tours of cycling, including the recent Vuelta a España, were supported by AGU’s cycling kits that are powered by the HeiQ Smart Temp thermoregulation technology.

HeiQ celebrates its collaboration with AGU, a high-performance sports gear manufacturer. Together, the companies integrated HeiQ Smart Temp technology into the jerseys of Jumbo-Visma, the triumphant team whose outstanding cyclists Jonas Vingegaard, Primoz Roglic, and Sepp Kuss won Europe’s three Grand Tours; the Tour de France, Giro d’Italia, and Vuelta a España.

HeiQ Smart Temp, an innovative thermoregulation solution, dynamically responds to body heat and moisture, providing cyclists with a cooling effect when they need it most. This technology enhances comfort and performance, making it ideal for next-to-skin apparel, sportswear, and activewear.

AGU's product developers harnessed the power of HeiQ Smart Temp to create jerseys with cooling properties. The Jumbo-Visma team's lightest-weight jersey, weighing 25% less than their regular aero shirt, keeps athletes up to 2.5°C cooler than other performance fabrics.

Textil Santanderina, a manufacturer of quality fabrics with controlled traceability, launched its Advanced Black denim collection in collaboration with Archroma.

The Advanced Black collection by Textil Santanderina uses Archroma’s new DIRESUL® EVOLUTION BLACK LIQ dyestuff to produce on-trend authentic black denim apparel with sustainability and resource savings. In addition to allowing fashion and apparel brands to choose eco-friendlier alternatives that demonstrate their commitment to protecting people and planet, Textil Santanderina’s new Advanced Black denim range also offers unique shade and wash-down effects.

Based on synthesis technology developed by Archroma, DIRESUL EVOLUTION BLACK LIQ delivers an overall impact reduction to 57%*, measuring its effect on human health, ecosystems and resources compared to standard Sulfur Black 1 liquid. Unlike traditional synthesis processes, it does not produce any ammonia, sodium salts waste or liquid effluents, and water consumption in the synthesis process is reduced by 73% for massive savings. The new DIRESUL dyestuff, when adopted with the full Archroma coloration system, delivers a new black color with on-tone wash-down effect and cleaner effluent at the mill.

Textil Santanderina and Archroma previously collaborated to produce Textil Santanderina’s aniline-free** indigo denim collection with the use of DENISOL® PURE INDIGO.

*As determined by Ecoterrae, a leading Spain-based sustainability consulting firm, through a Life Cycle Analysis (UNE-EN ISO 14044:2006) at the synthesis stage, using the ReCiPe 2016 Impact calculation methodology.
**Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods.

Harnessing the synergy of the Texpertise Network of Messe Frankfurt and its global apparel flagship, the co-organisers of the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) recently held a joint press conference on 28 August 2023, the first day of Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Autumn Edition. Discussing the inaugural fair’s comprehensive, business-friendly nature, representatives of both Messe Frankfurt  and VIETRADE spoke in glowing terms about the potential of ASEAN’s new platform for the entire textile industry. Set to launch the spring sourcing season, the fair will take place from 28 February – 1 March 2024 at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), Ho Chi Minh City.

For its first edition, the fair is expected to attract over 500 exhibitors and around 35,000 visitors to an 18,000 sqm exhibition space. Ms Wendy Wen, Managing Director of Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd, considered the show’s importance on a worldwide scale: “Serving as a supplementary trade fair to our existing events in China, VIATT will effectively extend our market reach into South East Asia. We’ve designed it to reinforce our global Texpertise Network, spanning the entire textile value chain. The network, which links over half a million textile professionals globally and organises more than 50 international textile trade fairs across 11 different countries, will lend its full support to the fair.”
 
She continued: “In line with this commitment, we will harness our more than 30 years of experience organising Intertextile in China, and extend to the fast-growing textile sector in Vietnam. Intertexile has grown to be by far the most influential series within our Texpertise Network, covering a broad range of resources in apparel fabrics, home and contract textiles."
 
With Vietnam’s largest international airport and seaport, and its proximity to other textile producing countries and regions, Ho Chi Minh City is strategically located to hold an event of this nature. The city attracts 35%^[1] of Vietnam’s foreign direct investment projects, and is the venue of choice for a significant portion of the country’s trade fairs.
 
Discussing the event’s potential, Mr Vu Ba Phu, Director General of Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), said: “Vietnam has emerged as one of the leading textiles exporting countries worldwide, with particularly high growth in the past 10 years, ranging from 15% to 20% yearly. As companies seek to diversify supply chains, and Vietnam introduces lucrative trade agreements, the market is predicted to attract even more investments. A big importer of textile machinery, fabrics, and yarns and fibres, green production and durable goods have become increasingly important. VIATT 2024 will be an important hub helping suppliers and buyers in all categories to meet, source and unleash the full potential of this market.”
 
A comprehensive Vietnam-based textile fair is an attractive proposition for manufacturers and sourcing professionals alike. Exhibitors from around the world will showcase a full spectrum of apparel fabrics, yarns and fibres, and garments; the latest innovations in technical textiles and nonwovens, textile processing, and printing technology; as well as a wide range of home and contract textiles.
 
Apparel fabrics, yarns and fibres, and garments
This sector will contain quality exhibitors from Vietnam, ASEAN, and beyond, providing buyers with numerous, diverse sourcing options in apparel textile sub-categories such as accessories, casualwear, denim, lace and embroidery, ladieswear, pattern designs, shirting, sportswear, suiting, and many more.
 
Technical textiles and nonwovens, textile processing, and printing technology
With application areas that include everything from automotive, aerospace and shipping, to construction, healthcare and safety, products on display will include innovative machinery, as well as some of the latest developments in smart textiles, such as wearable technology, sensors, and advanced materials.
 
Home textiles
Exhibitors will feature high-quality bed linens, towels, curtains, and much more, suitable for visitors sourcing for both residential and commercial applications. The diverse collections of home textiles will be enhanced by globally on-trend interior designs and in-demand, organic materials.
 
The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE). Covering the entire textile industry value chain, the inaugural edition will be held from 28 February – 1 March 2024 at the Saigon Exhibition and Convention Center (SECC), Ho Chi Minh City.

^[1] ‘Investing in Ho Chi Minh City’, October 2022, Vietnam Briefing, retrieved August 2023, https://www.vietnam-briefing.com/news/investing-in-ho-chi-minh-city-why-the-megacitys-industry-economy-and-policy-are-key-to-developmen.html/

The Munich-based startup Sizekick launches a new technology and attracts well-known brands and retailers to reduce size-related returns in e-commerce. With the apparel technology know-how of the strategic partner and investor Hohenstein and the AI-based technology of Sizekick, more sustainable shopping in e-commerce with less CO₂ emissions will be made possible. The technology company is now celebrating a successful market entry: The newly developed sizing AI is now available for fashion e-commerce stores and is pleased about the first successfully acquired customers. The first customers to join the company include the Swiss multi-brand store for sustainable fashion, Rrrevolve, the premium outdoor brand Black Diamond from the USA, and Marc Cain, a global brand with German roots in the premium sector.

The solution promises to add value for both brands and consumers when shopping online by taking individual body measurements into account when recommending the right clothing size. The AI-based technology always offers two options to help arrive at the appropriate size recommendation. With BodyFinder, the AI suggests realistic body shapes to choose from. Alternatively, the video-based BodyScanner option enables a body scan via the smartphone's video function. All it takes to do this is to turn around in front of the phone's camera. Fashion brands and fashion retailers now have easy access to the new technology, as integration in the e-commerce store takes just a few minutes.

Hohenstein's expertise helped the Sizekick team to link accurate body measurements with the right product properties. Hohenstein is considered a leader in the field of size & fit and has been advising companies in the textile industry for over 75 years. The Sizekick fit analysis not only supports the brands' product teams, but is also used as direct input for Sizekick AI.

Riri, which became part of Oerlikon Group on March 1, presents its FW 24-25 collection, which embraces plastic and metal trends.

Metal Trends: GALACTIC SHINE, TEXTURIZED BLACK and AMBER GLAZE
As a result of joining the Oerlikon Group, specializing in surface engineering, polymer processing, and additive manufacturing, Riri is accelerating its transition to new processes related to surface treatments, particularly the PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition) technology, a physical process that significantly reduces impacts on the environment. PVD processes can be appreciated particularly on sliders and buttons where gold and shiny black finishes stand out. Silver textures, science fiction-inspired surfaces and shapes, and glossy, brushed finishes in shades of gray and very light gold: GALACTIC SHINE brings to earth a sidereal experience, witness from a journey where the atmosphere becomes rarefied and elegance takes shape among metalized leather tapes, gold PVD pullers, organic cotton, and gleaming inox. Black also shines in the TEXTURIZED BLACK selection, in tone-on-tone contrasts that create plays of light and shadow, thanks to metallic effects, glossy black PVD treatments, tapes and galvanic in shades of black. The atmosphere becomes warmer by varying on amber tones, the absolute protagonists of the AMBER GLAZE mood, which offers a different interpretation of elegance through bright amber tones, rose gold, diamond prints and geometric patterns.

Plastic Trends: GHOSTLY ICE and SPRAY VANISHED
GHOSTLY ICE features accessories that refer to the skiing theme, offering an algid beauty made up of transparent surfaces and icy effects, a theme in which the sustainability of mono-materials coexists with the elegance of the end result. The color inspirations are totally different, but sustainability and elegance remain unchanged in the SPRAY VANISHED zipper selection, in which vibrant multicolored effects communicate joy and vitality through iridescent PVD effects and the use of recycled materials, such as the polyamide of the patented B.Lock button.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) will be presenting new applications for its European environmentally-friendly Evolon® microfiber technology for Fall/Winter 24/25 fashion and leather goods collections at Lineapelle, from September 19-21. These include solutions for artificial leather applications suitable for the shoe, furniture and automotive industries.

Evolon® sustainable microfiber coating substrates
Evolon® microfiber fabrics are ideal coating substrates for artificial leather applications in the shoe, furniture and car industries. They are particularly suitable as a carrier material for PU and PVC coatings. Evolon® microfiber materials have non-fraying edges, which makes converting easier and quicker. They contain 80% recycled PET from Freudenberg’s in-house bottle recycling plant. Furthermore, they are manufactured with no solvent and no chemical binder in the company’s Evolon® plant located in Colmar, France. The plant is accredited according to OEKO-TEX STeP sustainability manufacturing certification and the DETOX TO ZERO criteria. European manufacturing offers logistic benefits to European customers through shorter supply chain and transport routes.

Reinforcement material for leather goods
Manufacturers of leather goods also benefit from Evolon® microfiber when they use it as a reinforcement material for original leather. It is drapable and soft and provides optimal shaping support for leather. In addition, Evolon® materials offer important sustainability advantages for the manufacturing of luxury leather bags, such as being 100% made in Europe, eco-friendly and socially-responsible production, and the use of recycled raw materials.

Archroma is bringing the entire portfolio of 5,760 Archroma Color Atlas colors to swatchbook, a platform for material digitalization and sourcing.

The new partnership provides fashion, apparel and textile designers and manufacturers with an elevated standard for color accuracy that meets the needs of today’s increasingly technology-driven and integrated supply chain. This will help the textile and fashion community to improve sustainability, whilst lowering costs and shortening turnaround times.

The Color Atlas by Archroma® was launched in 2016 to provide fashion designers and stylists with off-the-shelf color inspiration that can be implemented in production with just a few clicks.

Designers will use the 5,760 Archroma Color Atlas colors on swatchbook to rapidly develop accurate digital colorways and visualize their final product. They can then share these digital swatches with their manufacturing partners, providing access to the swatchbook metadata, which can include information such as the materials’ composition, weight and color.

This will streamline the overall design and production process for color-critical fashion and textile products, allowing for faster turnaround. Digital materials supported by trusted coloration technology also reduce the need for samples and eliminate physical swatchbooks, bringing environmental benefits and lower costs to brands and suppliers.

All 5,760 Color Atlas by Archroma® colors are now available free of charge to subscribers on the swatchbook platform.

Archroma, a leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, is teaming up with COLOURizd™, an innovator specializing in sustainable textile dyeing technologies, to set a new standard for the eco-friendlier production of sustainable textiles.

The new collaboration will enable fabric mills and brands to combine Archroma pigment coloration solutions with the COLOURizd™ QuantumCOLOUR™ yarn-coloring technology to produce high-quality, high-performance textiles with maximum consumer appeal and minimal environmental impact.

Conventional fiber-reactive methods of dyeing cellulosic and synthetic yarns are multi-step resource-intensive processes that use up to 95 liters of water per kilograms of colored yarn and discharge approximately 94 liters of effluent.

In contrast, the innovative QuantumCOLOUR™ process injects pigment and a binder directly into the yarn, using only 0.95 liters of water per kilograms of colored yarn while producing zero effluent. This represents an unprecedented reduction of 98% in water consumption alongside zero wastewater discharge, zero discharge of harmful chemicals, 73% decrease in carbon footprint and 50% reduction in energy use.*

With Archroma, textile manufacturers and apparel brands can add further value to the QuantumCOLOUR™ process with tailor-made system solutions, including JUST COLOR. This formaldehyde-free** pigment coloration system is based on Archroma’s revolutionary Printofix® pigment dispersions and Helizarin® binders to deliver exceptionally soft fabrics with high fastness and durability, while also enabling energy and chemical savings and higher productivity.

* As tested by Peterson Control Union
** Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods

BDG [By Urban Outfitters] and the denim mill, ISKO have come together to develop a 10-piece collection made up of workwear-inspired denim pieces with finishing designs by British Artist, Dwayne Coleman.

Partnering with ISKO, Urban Outfitters has developed more sustainable denim pieces for this collaboration, utilizing recycled cotton yarns made from cutting waste. All pieces are washed using innovative technology to reduce the chemical, water, and energy footprint so that each item has a low environmental impact score. The development of these washes were done with the help of ISKO’s Creative Room London. The collection features an innovative style that uses no virgin cotton, and yet the authenticity and durability remains the same.

The collaboration incorporates the principles of circular design, including minimal wash processing, recycled cotton content, minimal metal trims and removable shank buttons. The styles are designed to last, and after many wears they will be readily recyclable for their next life. Urban Outfitters are members of Better Cotton whose mission is to help cotton communities survive and thrive, while protecting and restoring the environment as part of the brand's wider sustainability initiatives.