From the Sector

An exclusive collection of archival wedding dresses by Atelier Emé artfully reworked in collaboration with mending for good, the consulting firm offering luxury brands creative and ethical solutions for design-driven upcycling.

Re-Love is the capsule collection composed of sixteen wedding dresses - 10 developed in collaboration with mending for good, 6 created in-house by the company's style office. Sixteen iconic garments of the brand selected among the most significant in the history of the maison, reworked with love through a transformation project based on the principles of circularity. Harmonious and enchanted fusion of past and present, an effort that makes clear and possible innovation strategies following sustainability paths.

Atelier Emé has decided to collaborate with mending for good by developing a series of pieces based  on craftsmanship techniques, creativity, romance and fun, starting from the archive dresses. A work carried out by the style office in the sartorial laboratories of the Maison Atelier Emé deconstructing and reconstructing the chosen garments, while mending for good, on the other hand, has provided repurposing solutions through painting on fabric by Karl Joerns of La Serra MK textile Atelier in Florence, hand embroidery by Donatella de Bonis and hand decorations. A fairy-tale upcycling, achieved through a synergistic work that has combined highly specialized skills and craftsmanship for ten creations, full of colorful designs, watercolor bouquets, three-dimensional applications and ton-sur-ton embroidery.

Finland-based circular fashion and textile technology group Infinited Fiber Company has selected AFRY as the main engineering partner for its new flagship factory for producing regenerated textile fibers for leading fashion and apparel brands.

More than 92 million tonnes of textile waste are produced globally every year, with much of it ending up in landfills or incinerators. At the same time, textile fiber demand is increasing rapidly. Infinited Fiber Company’s technology turns cellulose-based raw materials, like cotton-rich textile waste, into a premium regenerated textile fiber that goes by the name Infinna™. The technology, which can be licensed for both new factories and to retrofit existing pulp or viscose production units, offers a solution for eliminating waste and reducing the textile industry’s burden on limited virgin resources.

Infinited Fiber Company currently operates pilot plants in Finland and has announced plans to build a flagship factory there to meet the strong demand from international clothing brands. The flagship factory will be the first of its kind in the world and will use post-consumer textile waste as feedstock. Production is scheduled to begin in 2024. In Finland, the national-level collection of textile waste will begin in 2023, and in the EU, the collection of textile waste will become mandatory in 2025, which will facilitate raw material supply.

The annual production capacity of the plant is planned at 30,000 tonnes of Infinna fiber, which corresponds to the amount of fiber needed for about 100 million t-shirts. Infinited Fiber Company has already sold a significant portion of future production through multi-year sales deals with global fashion brands, who see its regenerated Infinna fiber as an important part of their own circular economy strategies.

AFRY’s assignment includes the basic engineering of the new factory to support the final investment decision. In this basic engineering phase, AFRY will design the combination of several technology and equipment deliveries into one viable plant. AFRY will also provide its AFRY Smart Site services for the digitalization of the factory, utilizing Industry 4.0 technologies to optimize and digitally connect all the factory's processes and operations.

• Marchi & Fildi Group presents the selection of metalloplastic yarns with GRS certification of its Gleaming line, coming from 100% post-consumer recycled polyester

With the goal to expand the offer of yarns coming from recycled raw materials for a textile more attentive to the consumption of resources, the MFT division of the Marchi & Fildi Group completes the range of metalloplastic yarns of its Gleaming collection with the insertion of 100% recycled polyester yarns coming from post-consumer material and with the GRS (Global Recycle Standard) certification.
Starting from recycled polyester with traceable origin, in compliance with environmental and social criteria extended to all the phases of the supply chain, metalloplastic yarns are obtained with the same esthetic features and performance, compared to similar products based on virgin raw materials.

“Thanks to our commitment in the research of materials, we are able to propose metalloplastic yarns produced with 100% recycled material; the film used for the production of flat yarns, too, is in recycled polyester, with a quality level that is suitable for cutting – the Company explains -. Till now it was possible to find in the market only metalloplastic yarns with not recycled polyester flat yarn, twisted with certified fibers. This represents an important step forward to implement a circular economy possibility for this kind of products too”.

The Gleaming yarns GRS certified can be supplied in gold and silver, colors and transparent, in various counts, widths and types; they are suitable for use in flat and circular knitting, weaving, hosiery and as a component in fancy yarns.

The Gleaming line, with a wide selection of yarns in stock service, represents a completion of the offer of the Marchi & Fildi Group. The Gleaming yarns are offered in different thicknesses, widths and types with both metallized and transparent, iridescent, refracting and phosphorescent effects. The collection also includes items with special features of resistance to chemical and dyeing treatments. The Gleaming metalloplastic yarns find application in the world of fashion and furniture, for creative and fancy yarns and fabrics, accessories and decorations. Products with refractive features are also used in technical items like uniforms and workwear, sport garments and accessories, external ribbons and labels.

Gina Tricot releases its first collection that has been produced with We aRe SpinDye. The collection is part of Gina Tricot's innovation program Gina Lab. and consists of a coat, shirt, trousers and two bags colored with We aRe SpinDye's method.

With the collaboration, Gina Tricot continues to focus on sustainability, now with the coloring process at the center. Of all the resources that arise during the entire lifespan of a garment - from the production of raw materials, to recycling, 80% is used during the production phase itself. To maximize the effects of the sustainability changeover, an increased focus is required on the entire production process and in particular on the most resource-intensive of them all: the dyeing.

One of Gina Tricot's focus is to explore new methods and technologies in sustainability, which makes the collaboration with We aRe Spin Dye feel just right for us. Together we get a product with more durable and circular fibers, in addition with a more sustainable textile production with a focus on minimal water use. We are extremely proud of this collaboration. says Emma Garrote, Global Production & Sustainability Manager at Gina Tricot.

Gina Tricot is a shining example of an agile organization with short decision-making processes. They have managed to enthuse both the design and production department. It has been crucial to reach the launch of this collection that takes place today, says Andreas Andrén, CEO of We aRe SpinDye®.

Gina Tricot
Gina Tricot is a Swedish fashion brand that offers fashion to women in over 30 countries. Today, Gina Tricot has over 160 stores around Sweden, Norway, Denmark and Finland, as well as e-commerce throughout Europe. With around 1,900 employees, 98% of these are girls. For Gina Tricot, it is important to build pride from the inside out, we are a company that chooses to invest in and highlight women.

We aRe Spin Dye
The company is a Swedish cleantech company that provides and offers a process and platform for production and quality control that enables players in the fashion and clothing industry to significantly reduce their environmental impact. The company's business concept is to establish a new, sustainable and transparent standard for dyeing synthetic textiles in the fashion and apparel industry in a simple and user-friendly way.

For its 2021 Green Collection, the Italian luxury hosiery brand Sarah Borghi presents a broadened product offer in terms of colors and categories, meeting the needs of a stylish, yet sustainable consumer. By mixing fashion, quality, innovation and research, the tights and stockings powerhouse continues its development in the journey towards a conscious future.

The evolution of the Green Collection, the sustainable hosiery collection first launched in 2020, confirms the efforts of the brand in promoting a new generation of attractive fashion and design which actively encourages and supports a responsible change in culture and smart products offer.

Lately, a decisive step has been added to the brand’s history thanks to the publication of the Integrated Report by Gizeta Calze, Sarah Borghi’s top-notch producer and first Italian company in the hosiery sector to include sustainability throughout its business model. A commitment of responsibility and transparency on a path that has been carried on for years and that, today more than ever, becomes of the utmost importance, as stated by Luca Marzocchi, CEO of Gizeta Calze. The Integrated Report provides a complete view of the business strategy, operating model and governance, which combines financial information with sustainability insights, conceived as complementary to other strategies and, indeed, essential for increasing business value.

The collection
The collection presents a range of versatile, colorful products combined with extra-luxury comfort and designed for every type of woman: from seductive tights to everyday socks, together with knee- highs, up to athleisure with leggings.
 
The responsible collection features two new generation materials. One is Amni Soul Eco®, the world’s first biodegradable in anaerobic conditions polyamide 6.6 yarn that degrades in around 5 years* after disposing of in landfill, developed by SOLVAY and produced and distributed by FULGAR. The other is ROICA™ V550 by leading fiber manufacturer Asahi Kasei, a premium sustainable stretch yarn boasting the Gold Level Material Health Certificate by Cradle-to-Cradle Product Innovation Institute** as it has been evaluated for impact on human and environmental health. Moreover, it smartly breaks down without releasing harmful substances in the environment according to Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certification. Key elements that makes ROICA™ V550 a precious choice when it comes to Circular Economy material approach.

With its resource-saving dyeing technology, We aRe SpinDye takes place in H&M's latest Innovation Stories collection called Co-exist.

The use of We aRe SpinDye's technology contributes to reducing both water consumption and CO2 emissions, which in turn leads to a lower impact on the world's ecosystem and creates conditions for our co-existence with nature.

Up to 24% of a garment's entire climate footprint occurs during dyeing. We aRe SpinDye's technology can reduce the consumption of the earth's resources in textile production. On average, the reduction of water is -75%, chemicals -90% and energy consumption and CO2 emissions -30%.

In just one year, the clothing industry uses 9 billion cubic meters of water (which is in line with the annual need for drinkingwater for the entire population of our planet) and 168 million tons of process chemicals to dye fabrics. We aRe SpinDye now hopes that more players in the industry will pay attention to the ways that are available when it comes to resource-efficient dyeing process and quickly implement this technology in their production.

"The enormous resource consumption in the dyeing process is a global problem that must be addressed on a broad front. It is therefore inspiring to work with major brands with an organization that is sensitive to cutting-edge expertise and at the same time shows a willingness to work together to achieve common goals", says Andreas Andrén, CEO of We aRe SpinDye.

Officina+39, an Italian sustainable chemical developer, attends Superstudio Più in Milan to show its technical progress and share its concrete contribution to a more Trustainable™ denim. Under the spotlight, among multiple innovations, the latest addition to the Officina+39 family: the brand-new NOVASCRAPER INDIGO.

NOVASCRAPER INDIGO, the new technology for classic aesthetics
NOVASCRAPER INDIGO allows to give a natural vintage look to denim garments through laser finishing, an actual innovative alternative to manual scraping. NOVASCRAPER INDIGO guarantees a natural effect with unparalleled quality and accuracy, requiring less manpower and less rejection rate when compared to manual scraping.

The Sixth Sense: less water, more Trustainability
Officina+39 and Tejidos Royo joined forces to create a denim line that drastically reduces water consumption: this is “The Sixth Sense”, a project concretely inspired by the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development and specifically by its SDG6, calling to action to ensure access to water and sanitation for all. Officina+39 personally accepts this global challenge by contributing to the realization of “The Sixth Sense” with its AQUALESS MISSION. Featuring three cutting-edge laundry products for one innovative process, AQUALESS MISSION combines the application of REMOVER BC, AQUALESS AGED – a waterless compound to give denim abrasion effects –, and OZ-ONE POWDER – an advanced product to give garments a bleached yet eco-friendly treatment in a dry application, for a worn and distressed look. Compatible with conventional washing and treatment machinery, it allows for water consumption savings up to 75%.
Focused on driving sustainability in the textile industry, Tejidos Royo uses low-impact fibers and yarns as a raw material and the implementation of foam-dyeing technology with its Dry Indigo®, the first-ever technology to foam-dye denim with zero water use and no water discharge.

CircularKromia: a colorful path for preloved garments
At Officina+39 the word “waste” becomes synonymous with opportunity, a source to create something new, fostering true, Trustainable™ circularity. This is the background to the collaboration with Atelier Riforma, an innovative startup born in Turin (Italy) with a social vocation. Through the contribution of Officina+39’s RECYCROM™, it has been possible to obtain new pigment and dyestuff pulverizing discarded garments and pieces usually difficult to recover through tailoring transformation alone. The collection made it possible not to generate any waste, no new raw materials were required to create CircularKromia.

The Circle Book 2: the power of collaboration and circularity
A collective project gathering a total of ten companies with common goals focused on transparency and circularity in denim design, The Circle Book is now in its second edition that culminated in CULTURE.IN, a circular capsule collection transparently made from recycled and degradable materials.

Officina+39 opens its doors, with Lenzing and Meidea
In the evening of October 13, the recently inaugurated brand-new headquarters of Officina+39 in Biella opened their doors to welcome denim personalities, brands, designers and partners to show where Officina+39's innovative technologies are created, to network and celebrate while preparing new steps towards the design of a more circular and – of course – Trustainable™ fashion Industry.

• From C.L.A.S.S. ICON 2021 to Special Project at WHITE Milan, the streetstyle Portuguese brand shows urban outfits for everyday heroes fighting for the environment, with a holistic approach to sustainability

After being rewarded with the 2021 C.L.A.S.S. Icon Award, the Portuguese brand Duarte is ready to present its Spring/Summer 2022 collection developed with C.L.A.S.S. ecohub support. The streetwear designer Ana Duarte has worked in close contact with the Milanese hub in order to create a 40 pieces collection where the approach to materials, suppliers, new business models and communication could include and support a holistic view of the sustainable values aligned with style, performances, look and touch and Duarte identity.

The inspiration behind the collection is the superhero Tadao - Ana Duarte’s dog, an English Cocker Spaniel - which is the World Keeper fighting against the environmental issues mankind has generated. Like a protector of sustainability, it battles modern monsters as Smog Man, Fire Man, Deforestation Man and Wave man, who respectively represent the issues of air pollution, climate change, forest destruction and water overconsumption. A very simple, direct and engaging way of talking about hot topics and simple, direct solutions.

The collection is made of 20 outfits, mainly unisex apart from some of them typically feminine as the crop tops. Hints of bright red and mustard yellow are alternated with denim, grey and pale azure tones, blending in with the colorful prints. Accents of black - used in inserts or as piping - seem to emphasize the outline of the garments. The different textures of the materials create a sense of movement, further enhanced by the unique patterns. All the garments’ prints are exclusively designed by the designer, following each collection inspiration: this time, they recall urban landscapes and the appeal of big metropolis, with Tadao as protagonist in prints, patches and ankle socks.

Among the most representative Duarte outfits we find:

• A matching sweater with trousers made of Newlife™, a yarn 100% made In Italy coming only from post- consumer, traceable plastic bottles.
• A unisex oversized bomber is crafted from Newlife™, lined with precious 100% Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei fabric by Gianni Crespi Foderami and matched with printed neoprene hoodie and shorts.
• Long-panelled unisex coat and trousers made with ReLAST® denim by Candiani, a responsible textile featuring a premium recycled stretch yarn, ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei. The coat is lined with a fabric by Gianni Crespi Foderami in 100% Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, a new generation material made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linter.
• The same sustainable stretch yarn is implied in the responsible tulle by Iluna Group, and featured in a shorts and top women’s ensemble, paired with a neoprene printed bomber. The tulle is skillfully matched with 100% Tencel™ back in the loop fabric by Maeba International underneath it.

Ana Duarte is part of a new generation of designers with a new approach to sourcing and production: her research goes into different kind of business models to fit her responsible innovation and style needs at the same time. That’s why in her collection we can find amazing and unique combination of organic, recycled, Back in The Loop, innovative materials that are the right choice for the look&touch and the performance she’s looking for. The result is cool yet respecting people and the environment in full traceability thanks to certified and sometimes even circular solutions. Working with components from various sources and business models requires a certain expertise and a particular sensibility we find in Ana Duarte’s design solutions and in her responsible interpretation of streetwear.

For the Fall-Winter 2022/2023 BERTO divided their PREMIUM DENIM FABRICS collection into 5 themes.

The first one is ICONIC, where clients can find the “mainstream” proposal, the authentic denim NO SEASON, timeless fabrics with high versatility. From the 100% cotton with salt and pepper look, to the comfort denim really slubby, to the light shirting fabric. Into this theme there are also the Berto NOS, always available for all clients’ needs.

The second theme is BLACK BLOOD. Into this theme clients find Double Black fabrics that have two souls: one made by overdyed sulfur denims, for a washed and aggressive look, and the other given by a reactive black weft, inspired by elegance and sophistication. In addition, we propose to clients also some overdyed reactive fabrics for an intense black look.

The third theme is EVERYDAY PLUSH. With “everyday plush” we want to imagine the desire to dress as if surrounded by a warm hug. In fact, this capsule includes Cashmere denim that ensure warm and soft feeling to the wearer; and “soapy-denim”, a fabric made with cotton and viscose that gives a soft and fluid hand. Moreover, cotton mixed with nylon gives the fabric a technical hand and an elegant image while maintaining stretch performance, lightness and softness.

The fourth theme is JAPAN CALLING. The rough touch-feel and the authentic aesthetic as the true Japanese denim are the main features of the fabrics belonging to this theme. The clients here can find high weight 100% cotton denim fabrics with authentic image and structured weave. To complete the capsule a special blend is available: fabrics with a Tencel slubby weft that gives soft and fluid touch together with a rough image.

Last but not least, the fifth theme: MOTHER NATURE. The container of all the most sustainable Berto fabrics, from Organic cotton fabrics GOTS certified, to Recycled cotton fabrics GRS certified, made regenerating their own production waste.

Linked with this last theme the company will present during BLUEZONE by MUNICH FABRIC START a special capsule collection of garments made with our PIANETA FABRIC, GRS certified and made with recycled cotton coming from their own waste of production. The same waste has been used by CADICA GROUP, an Italian premium trims maker, to do the SPECIAL LABELS and HANGTAGS of this capsule.

• Parade Example for physical Trade Shows

A whole year without physical trade fairs, long months without personal exchange: last week the physical International Textile Trade Show MUNICH FABRIC START and the International Denim Trade Show BLUEZONE took place for the textile industry in Munich. The team at Munich Fabric Start Exhibitions GmbH is bringing a bit of normality back to the industry, but also to event management. Thanks to detailed, Covid-19 compliant fair formats, the organisers show that trade fairs are possible and can be successfully implemented with the appropriate measures.

More than 600 international suppliers presented their new collections and developments for Autumn.Winter 22/23 in around 1000 collections in the Fabrics, Additionals, Design Studios, Sourcing, ReSource and Sustainable Innovations areas at MUNICH FABRIC START as well as denim, sportswear and KEYHOUSE at BLUEZONE.

A winning fusion of BLUEZONE & KEYHOUSE well-attended events

Under the motto "BACK TO THE FUTURE", BLUEZONE offered a way back to the tactile experience of textiles and the reunion of the denim community. In addition to international denim weavers and manufacturers, visitors to the Zenith Hall also saw a qualitative selection of KEYHOUSE exhibitors who presented their futuristic innovations for the fashion industry.

Positive visitor & exhibitor echo despite Covid-19 measures

In keeping with the season's title "RISE", the visitors were greeted by inspiring, colourful trend forums with unique highlights for Autumn.Winter 22/23 collection development. In the halls, the industry was able to discover a trade show with the well-known and proven pre-pandemic quality with manufacturers and suppliers presenting in all 8 areas. Non-European suppliers were represented by agencies and offered well-attended show in show concepts.

The newly formed ReSOURCE x SUSTAINABLE INNOVATIONS Area also drew in the crowds. In a modern atmosphere, information was shared on sourcing sustainable textiles and additionals as well as innovative concepts. Another highlight was the launch of FABRIC.iD, the innovative process for the complete digitisation of fabrics to greater serve the industry's digital future.