From the Sector

Partnership between Nouvelles Fibres Textiles, Pellenc ST and ANDRITZ promotes circular economy for textiles.

France’s first industrial plant for automated sorting and recycling of textile waste was officially inaugurated at Nouvelles Fibres Textiles, Amplepuis, on November 30, 2023. The plant is the result of an ambitious partnership between textile recycling company Nouvelles Fibres Textiles, waste sorting specialist Pellenc ST and international technology group ANDRITZ, a specialist in textile recycling machinery and processes.

Capable of automatically sorting garments by composition and color, the new line meets the needs of both post-consumer and post-industrial waste markets. The line also removes hard parts such as buttons and zippers to prepare the material for further processing in an ANDRITZ tearing machine.

The automated textile sorting line at Nouvelles Fibres Textiles is dedicated to industrial-scale production, customer trials and projects, and the R&D activities of the partners. It will process textile waste to produce recycled fibers for the spinning, nonwovens, and composites industries.

Automated sorting was the last missing link needed to develop a complete ecosystem in France, where the fashion industry, social and solidarity economy actors, waste management companies, and textile producers from different sectors are working together towards a textile circular economy.

The EU's strategy for sustainable and circular textiles aims to ensure that by 2030 textile products are made to a great extent of recycled fibers and incineration and landfilling of textiles are minimized.

RadiciGroup's 100% natural nylon awarded in the Fibers and Insulation category: Biofeel eleven, the 100% nylon yarn from natural sources launched a few months ago by RadiciGroup, won the ISPO Textrends award for the Fall/Winter 2025/26 collections. The award - curated by a jury of experts - rewards innovative trends in the textile and apparel sectors and is part of the ISPO fair in Munich dedicated in particular to the fabrics and sportswear sector - scheduled from 28 to 30 November 2023.

After its market launch last March, Biofeel Eleven is already in the "Top Ten" of new products in the yarn sector thanks to its technical and environmental performance. This special yarn of natural origin comes from a small inedible bean grown in India in semi-arid soils that are not competitive with food production. These beans yield a special oil ideal for obtaining biopolymers that are then into yarn at RadiciGroup in Italy.

The yarn has special characteristics, such as low water absorption, increased lightness and improved strength properties. This means being able to produce fabrics that are both durable and comfortable to the touch and skin, fundamental requirements also in sportswear.

HeiQ announces the appointment of Robert van de Kerkhof as Non-Executive Director, with effect from 1 January 2024 to the board of HeiQ plc and as Chairman of the Environmental, Occupation, Health & Safety and Sustainability Committee. Robert will also be appointed to the board of HeiQ AeoniQ Holding AG (in Switzerland), a subsidiary of HeiQ plc.

Robert van de Kerkhof has over 30 years of experience in general management and sustainability leadership and extensive knowledge of the textiles industry, including cellulosic fiber technology. He founded PEPPER-i2, an advisory company specializing in sustainability and circularity. Robert also serves as the Chief Sustainability Officer and as a Board Member of Lenzing AG, a position he has held since 2014. Robert will be leaving Lenzing and its Board on the 31st. December 2023.

Robert joins HEIQ AeoniQ™ with the firm belief that the novel HEIQ AeoniQ™ man-made cellulosic fibers (MMCF) are one of the most promising solutions to transform the textile industry, now the second-most polluting in the world, into one of the most sustainable, by rendering fossil fuel-based fibers like polyester obsolete.

Robert has also held senior positions as President of the Austrian Fiber Institute, President and Board Member of CIRFS – the European Man-made Fibres Association, and Chairman of the ReHubs Business Council for Euratex, which is the voice of the European Apparel and Textile Industry.

Re:NewCell AB (publ) has created a patented process for 100% textile-to-textile recycling and has invested over SEK 1,300 million to establish an innovative and efficient textile recycling plant. The industrial scale plant in Ortviken currently has a capacity to produce up to 60,000 tonnes on an annual basis.

As communicated on 12 October, the Company has experienced lower than anticipated sales volumes to fiber producers in the third quarter and as communicated on 1 November and 7 November, the Company had low sales volumes in October. In addition, sales volumes in November are now expected to be lower than previously anticipated and in line with October sales volume. Discussions are ongoing with a number of customers to secure orders, but it is uncertain when they will materialise.

Therefore, Re:NewCell hereby announces that its Board of Directors has decided to immediately initiate a strategic review to explore and evaluate various funding alternatives. As part of this process, the Board of Directors will consider all potential alternatives to secure funding and optimise shareholder value. Such alternatives may include additional debt funding, equity injection through the form of a rights issue, equity injection through a directed issue targeted to a financial or strategic investor or other possible strategic transactions.
The Board of Directors has retained ABG Sundal Collier as financial advisor to assist in its review of alternatives. Vinge has been appointed as legal advisor in connection with the review process.

The Board of Directors has not set a timetable for completion of its review, but the process will be initiated immediately. Subject to compliance with its ongoing disclosure obligations pursuant to applicable laws and regulations, Re:NewCell undertakes no obligation to make any further announcements regarding the strategic review until a final decision is made by the Company’s Board of Directors.

HeiQ introduces a 100% biobased and long-lasting cosmetic finishing technology for textiles to the market. The newest addition to the HeiQ portfolio harnesses the power of active probiotics and selected prebiotics to enhance the skin microbiome, turning the human’s largest organ into the best-looking one.

HeiQ Skin Care is a synbiotic textile finish aimed at providing a balanced microbiome for glowing skin, even after repeated use and washing of textiles. Unlike conventional products, HeiQ Skin Care utilizes slow-release prebiotics and probiotics seamlessly integrated into a biobased textile matrix, enriching the skin's microbiome diversity, and offering long-lasting cosmetic benefits.

The synergistic combination of prebiotics and probiotics, known as synbiotics, delivers a soothing cosmetic skin treatment while relaxing, working, or sleeping. Probiotics not only restore and improve the skin's natural balance but also enhance its self-repair capabilities. Synbiotics promote skin renewal, rebalancing, and improved appearance, reducing the signs of aging and establishing a favorable environment for the skin's natural repair mechanisms.

A second skin that takes care of the first
The skin, the largest organ in human body, is home to a diverse community of microorganisms called the skin microbiome. It plays a crucial role in maintaining good skin condition, acting as a protective barrier against harmful agents. However, various factors, such as hormones, diet, smoking, environmental exposures, and excessive UV radiation, can disrupt its balance, leading to skin conditions like rashes, acne, psoriasis, rosacea, skin irritation, redness, eczema, and odor. Maintaining a balanced skin microbiome is essential for preserving skin integrity.

HeiQ Skin Care is suitable for all textile fibers, both natural and synthetic, and can be applied to all textile items that come in direct contact with the skin. This versatility makes it an ideal choice for daily use- at work, during sports, leisure activities, or as bedding items like bed sheets and pillows.

Intensive wear trials conducted during the development stage have proven the consistent release of synbiotics (prebiotics and probiotics) onto the skin, creating conditions to foster a well-balanced microbiome.

In cooperation with the Swiss company Haelixa, Oerlikon Manmade Fibers Solutions will, in future, be able to make the entire value chain of a textile end product transparent and hence sustainable. The two development partners are offering a solution for the comprehensive traceability of products, as required by the European Green Deal.

An essential part of the solution is the DNA marker technology developed by Haelixa that enables complete traceability of materials. These markers survive all production process steps, validating that the end product is identifiable. "This innovative technology employs distinct DNA tailored for each project, establishing a unique identity for the material," explains Holly Berger, Marketing Director at Haelixa. "Once the DNA is integrated into the material, it becomes irremovable, impervious to falsification or alteration." Handling is straightforward: the DNA marker is fed into the spinning process with the preparation oil, for example. The preparation system is modified accordingly. Further feeding options are currently being developed.

Smart factory: total transparency with atmos.io
The concept is complemented by atmos.io, Oerlikon's digital platform, which records and evaluates extensive production and process data during the yarn manufacturing process. Atmos.io gives the yarn its digital identity during its time on Oerlikon systems, from the melt to the packaged package. This technology has been used successfully for some time to monitor the production process. With atmos.io, deviations in process parameters and yarn data can be identified and rectified within a very short time, which in turn keeps the yarn quality stable and reduces waste rates.

Combining both technologies enables clear traceability of the yarn produced, even in the downstream process steps. Hence, the yarn's components, qualities, manufacturing conditions, and origin are traced beyond doubt in the finished garment. "The unique DNA carries the 'roots' of the yarn digitally recorded in atmos.io into the everyday life of the end consumer," says Jochen Adler, CTO at Oerlikon Manmade Fibers. The textile end products meet the requirements of the digital product passport required by the EU, which contains the information needed to assess their life cycle assessment and circularity. Initial long-term tests have shown 100% traceability of the yarns in the POY and FDY spinning process. If the yarn manufacturer relies on the atmos.io platform, production systems can be adapted relatively easily to use the DNA markers.

From 6 – 8 March 2024, the Spring Edition of Intertextile Shanghai Home Textiles will make its  return to the National Exhibition and Convention Center in Shanghai. Showcasing home textile products, encompassing everything from floor to ceiling, exhibitors will be prepared to capture buyers’ attention during China’s traditional peak sourcing season. Suppliers can further benefit from a wider visitor scope, with many buyers crossing over from the co-located fairs Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics – Spring Edition, Yarn Expo Spring, CHIC, and PH Value. The comprehensive textile platform provides key opportunities for industry players to connect and explore new possibilities.
 
While the growth rate of the global economy remains slow, the domestic market in China has shown promising figures after the Chinese government implemented measures to encourage household consumption. These include providing support to both the home industry and consumers, to develop sustainable, intelligent and healthy living environments. Loan procedures for home refurnishing and funding for related industry sectors have also been optimised. Against this backdrop, for the first eight months of 2023, China Customs recorded a 7% year-on-year increase in consumables retail sales, reaching a total of RMB 3 billion (around USD 410 million). Homing in on the textile sector, profitability is regaining momentum, driven by both the local market and the success of international trade agreements such as Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP).

Across three days, the 2023 spring edition attracted 26,538 trade visitors and 283 exhibitors from five countries and regions. The upcoming fair in March will showcase a full range of home textiles to meet buyers’ needs, including bedding & towelling, rugs, table & kitchen linen, home textile technologies, textile design, and many more. Exhibitors, meanwhile, are set to benefit from the concurrent textile fairs, with the apparel fabrics, yarns and fibres on offer to attract additional segments of the textile value chain, and facilitate sourcing on a wider scale.

The adoption of composite parts based on flax fibres by the Marine Industry continues to grow, with major OEMs as well as smaller shipyards now aiming to take advantage of the reduced carbon impact and impressive mechanical properties they can provide.

“Over the last ten or fifteen years, several innovative flax fibre boats have been built and the fibre has started to gain significant traction,” says Julie Pariset, Innovation & CSR Director at the Alliance for European Flax-Linen and Hemp. “In addition to the environmental benefits, manufacturers are realising significant technical and processing gains with flax fibre composites.”

“Flax is a very low-density fibre, with a high specific stiffness,” she explains. “It can be used to manufacture composite laminates with mechanical properties not dissimilar to typical E-glass composites and the coefficient of thermal expansion of a flax fibre epoxy part is also quite close to that of a carbon fibre part.” This allows the materials to work well in combined assemblies with carbon fibre composites and the flax parts are also highly impact resistant.

Flax fibres also provide acoustic and vibration damping in composite applications, as well as providing a warm and aesthetically pleasing appearance below decks.

ecoRacer30
As a member of the Alliance for European Flax-Linen and Hemp, Bcomp, headquartered in Fribourg, Switzerland, has this year been working with Northern Light Composites (nlcomp), based in Monfalcone, northern Italy, on the creation of what is billed as the first fully recyclable nine-metre-long sailing boat – the ecoRacer30.

The boat is based on nlcomp’s proprietary rComposite technology – a combination of thermoplastic resins and BComp’s ampliTex high-performance natural fibre reinforcement fabrics and patented powerRibs technology.

It was built in a collaborative effort with the help of Barcelona-based Magnani Yachts, which took care of the composite manufacturing, and Sangiorgio Marine, which provided technical assistance as the boat was being assembled at its shipyard in Genova, Italy.

Magnani Yachts has subsequently become the first shipyard to hold an rComposite license and others are now being encouraged to adopt the technology.

The second ecoracer30 is currently under construction and has already been sold and nlcomp is planning to build a fleet of eight of these boats in time to enter a series of regattas in the summer of 2025.

Flax 27 Daysailer
Greenboats, based in Bremen, Germany, is another specialist in building boats from natural fibre composites and has this year launched the Flax 27 daysailer.

The lower hull of this vessel is also made from Bcomp’s ampliTex technical fabrics in combination with a sandwich core of recycled PET bottles. Using a vacuum infusion process, the fibres were integrated with a plant-based epoxy resin in order to further reduce the CO₂ footprint of the vessel.

The light structure and modern shapes of the lower hull of the boat result in very fast, sharp and agile handling on the water.

Greenboats has also recently announced significant new backing from alliance member Groupe Depestele, which manages 13,000 hectares of flax land in Normandy, France.

Blue Nomad
A project in Switzerland has meanwhile proposed the use of flax fibre composites in solar-powered habitats designed for comfortable living on the oceans – as the world grapples with the frightening implications of climate change and rising sea levels.

As envisaged by students from Institut auf dem Rosenberg in St Gallen, Switzerland working with Denmark-based SAGA Space Architects, Blue Nomad structures would form modular blocks to establish large communities and oceanic farms.
 

Carbios and L’Oréal have won the “Pioneer Awards” in the Industry category, presented by the Solar Impulse Foundation at the first World Alliance Summit. This prize was awarded to Carbios for its enzymatic PET recycling solution, labeled “Efficient Solution” by the Solar Impulse Foundation since 2019, and to L’Oréal for using this technology for the first time in a cosmetics bottle prototype. Carbios’ solution offers brands an alternative to petro-sourced plastic that helps them meet their sustainability commitments. This advancement paves the way for future applications in other sectors such as packaging, food and beverage, and textiles.

Carbios and L’Oréal: a long-term collaboration
Since 2017, Carbios and L’Oréal have been working together with a shared vision of accelerating the transition to a circular economy for plastic. In 2017, both companies created a Consortium to improve the recyclability and circularity of PET packaging.  Nestlé Waters, PepsiCo and Suntory Beverage & Food Europe joined this Consortium in 2019 to scale up Carbios’ innovation. The world’s first enzymatically recycled PET packaging was made in 2021 using Carbios’ biorecycling process. The world’s first PET biorecycling plant is scheduled to be commissioned in 2025. In parallel, Carbios is rolling out its technology internationally through licensing agreements.

The environmental benefits of biorecycling developed by Carbios
Recent life-cycle analyses^[1] show a 57% reduction in CO₂ emissions compared with the production of virgin plastic^[2], and for every tonne of recycled PET produced, 1.3 tonnes of petrol are avoided. Compared with conventional recycling, enzymatic recycling is 4 times more circular (calculated according to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Material Circularity Indicator). Thanks to its highly selective enzyme, optimized for efficient PET degradation, Carbios’ depolymerization process can process all types of PET waste, including colored, multilayer or textile waste that cannot be recycled using current technologies. Furthermore, the two monomers produced (PTA and MEG) make it possible to recreate recycled PET products of identical quality to virgin ones, and suitable for food contact.
 
 
^[1] Database ecoinvent 3.8
^[2] French scenario, taking into account the detour of 50% of PET waste from conventional end-of-life. Virgin PET: 2.53 kg CO₂/kg (cradle to gate)

New appointments to the Management Board of Freudenberg Performance Materials come into effect on January 1, 2024: Dr. Andreas Raps succeeds Dr. Frank Heislitz as Chief Executive Officer (CEO), and Marco Altherr takes over from Thomas Herr as Chief Financial Officer (CFO). From January 1, 2024, the Management Board of Freudenberg Performance Materials will therefore consist of: Dr. Andreas Raps (CEO), Marco Altherr (CFO) and John McNabb (CTO). McNabb has been CTO since 2018. Dr. Frank Heislitz and Thomas Herr become members of the Freudenberg Group Board of Management on January 1, 2024.

Dr. Andreas Raps has been a member of the Freudenberg SE Executive Council since 2020 and CEO of EagleBurgmann, a joint venture between the Japanese EKK Group and the Freudenberg Group, since 2016. He previously held several executive management positions at Freudenberg Sealing Technologies from 2004, most recently as CEO of the global Special Sealing Division with 17 manufacturing sites worldwide. Before joining the Freudenberg Group, Raps worked for various management consulting companies in Boston, USA, Munich, Germany, and Zurich, Switzerland. He holds an MBA from the University of Passau. Alongside his job as a consultant, he obtained a PhD with a thesis on strategy implementation in Business Administration. 

Marco Altherr has been CFO of Vibracoustic SE, a Freudenberg Group company, since 2020. He held various senior management positions at Freudenberg & Co. KG, the technology group’s holding company, from 2015 to 2020, most recently as Head of Corporate Controlling and Accounting. Prior to joining Freudenberg, he served in several management roles at Manroland AG, Heidelberger Druckmaschinen, Boehringer Ingelheim and Arthur Andersen. He holds a degree in business administration specializing in controlling and financing from Lahr University.