From the Sector

Denim Expert Ltd. are very proud that they have been accepted to join as a contributor to the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Foundation, The ZDHC missions is to enable brands in the textile, apparel, and footwear industries to implement chemical management best practices and advance towards zero discharge of hazardous chemicals by collaborative Engagement, Standard Setting and Implementation.

The main goals are set to eliminate priority hazardous chemicals in products and their manufacture, implement a transparent screening process to promote safer chemistry, implement common tools, best practices and training that advance chemical stewardship, partner with stakeholders to promote transparency of chemical usage and discharge and promote scaling of best practices through engagement with key stakeholders.
 
Under the guidance of the ZDHC Foundation, Denim Expert Ltd. have adopted various initiatives to ensure the zero discharge of hazardous chemicals, including:

• The establishment of traffic signals in the chemical store-room to aid in the safe storage of chemical product.
• The mandatory use of protective gloves when handling chemicals.
• The introduction of a chemical compatibility chart to ensure safe storage of chemicals and highlight their risk factor.
• Visible posting of Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) enabling close follow-up of chemical use.
• The installation of the appropriate ventilation and  temperature control in the chemical storage area.
• Establishment of an emergency response plan, with any potential chemical spillage being monitored by a specially trained technical representative.
• Clear labelling on all chemicals following ZDHC guidance.
• Strict adhesion by all employees to the chemical inventory list.
• Allocation of a designated area for chemical waste disposal and treatment.

With its membership of the ZDHC, Denim Expert Ltd. joins more than 24 signatory brands, 59 value chain affiliates, and 15 associates (including Adidas, Benetton, BURBERRY, C&A, COOP, ESPRIT, Gap Inc. , G-STAR RAW, H&M,INDITEX, Jack Wolfskin, Lbrands, LEVI STRAUSS & CO, LI-NING, MARKS & SPENCER, Hugo Boss, Nike, Primark, Puma, PVH, Target)  who are collectively working together to support implementation of safer chemical management practices.

New products for photopolymer and laser sinter printing methods from BASF 3D Printing Solutions GmbH (B3DPS) are on show from November 13 to 16 at Stand F20 in Hall 3.1 at this year’s formnext fair in Frankfurt. The BASF subsidiary is also announcing several new partnerships for the development and distribution of groundbreaking 3D printing solutions and products.

B3DPS has entered into a strategic partnership with the US company Origin, San Francisco, California for the further development of photopolymer printing processes. “Within the framework of an open business model, we are combining BASF’s material know-how with Origin’s expertise in printer software programming and the manufacture of the corresponding hardware,” explained Volker Hammes, Managing Director BASF 3D Printing Solutions GmbH. The collaboration has already shown the first signs of success. Origin has developed a new printing method where BASF’s new Ultracur3D photopolymers can be processed particularly well. The technology offers an optimal combination of a good surface finish and high mechanical stability, while also allowing for high material throughput.

B3DPS is working together with Photocentric, a manufacturer of 3D printers and their corresponding software and materials, on the development of new photopolymers and large-format photopolymer printers for mass production of functional components. Based in Peterborough, UK and Phoenix, USA, Photocentric has developed and optimized the use of LCD screens as image generators for its own printing systems. The two partners plan to offer the industry 3D printing solutions that replace parts of traditional manufacturing processes such as injection molding for small series, as well as enabling the production of large components.

The objective of the cooperation with Xunshi Technology, a Chinese printer manufacturer headquartered in Shaoxing, and operates in USA under the name Sprintray, will be opening new fields of application in 3D printing for the Ultracur3D product range of B3DPS.

Ultracur3D specialties for photopolymer printing processes
B3DPS has grouped well-established and new photopolymers designed for the respective 3D printing processes under the brand name Ultracur3D. BASF has developed unique raw materials for its new products that enable special part properties.
“Our Ultracur3D portfolio enables us to offer customers various UV-curable materials for 3D printing that provide far better mechanical properties and higher long-term stability than most available materials,” explained András Marton, Senior Business Development Manager at B3DPS. He added: “These materials have been developed for functional components that are subject to high stress.”

Expansion of distribution network for filaments
Innofil3D, a subsidiary of B3DPS, is entering into a partnership with Jet-Mate Technology, based in Tjanjin, China, for the distribution of plastic filaments in China. In parallel, a distribution agreement has been concluded with M. Holland in Northbrook, USA for the distribution of filaments in USA. “Since the USA is the largest market for filaments, we intend to strengthen our activities there,” said Jeroen Wiggers, Business Director 3DP Solutions for Additive Extrusion at B3DPS, adding: “Asia is another important market for us. We will be developing further distribution channels there and putting our Ultrafuse filaments on the Asian market in 2019.”

BASF’s portfolio of filaments for 3D printing are comprised of two categories; the well-established Innofil3D filaments based on generic polymers for conventional applications and polymer-based Ultrafuse filaments for advanced formulations used in demanding technical applications. One of the broadest filament selections on the market, this portfolio covers customer requirements ranging from prototype to industrial-scale production.

SLS: new 3D printing material with fire protection classification
New flame-resistant Ultrasint Polyamide PA6 Black FR meets UL94 V2 fire protection standards and is a new material class for use in selective laser sintering (SLS) processes, distinguished by high stiffness and thermal stability. In cooperation with one of the global leaders of public transportation vehicles, B3DPS has developed new components that meet vehicle fire protection requirements. “Together with our partner, we are currently producing prototypes, spare parts, and small series components, and are working to further improve flame resistance to meet additional certification specifications,” explained Hammes.
BASF introduced Ultrasint Grey PA6 LM X085 at AMUG this spring and now is followed by another product on show at formnext. Ultrasint PA6 Black LM X085 is based on polyamide 6, and can be processed at 175-185 degrees Celsius therefore making it suitable for most current SLS machines.

B3DPS adds polypropylene to its 3D printing portfolio
Through the acquisition of Advanc3D Materials GmbH in July 2018, B3DPS has expanded its range with numerous materials for use on laser sinter machines, including polyamide Adsint PA12, Adsint PA11, Adsint PA11CF and Adsint TPU flex 90.
Ultrasint PP is a special highlight. This polypropylene-based product exhibits outstanding mechanical properties and is frequently used in standard industrial production as it offers a good balance between price and performance. Ultrasint PP is distinguished by excellent plasticity, low moisture uptake, and resistance to liquids and gases. Prototypes and small batches can now be produced from the same material as used for traditional serial production. Post treatments such as thermoforming, sealing, and dyeing can be performed after printing.

The brand has been invited to present the SS2019 @ Budapest Fashion Week on November 14th, 2018

For the third consecutive year, the Italian brand Zerobarracento was selected to embody the excellence of our country at the Budapest Fashion Week. On November 14th, Zerobarracento will show on runway S/S 2019. The concept of connection to a fashion garment, and the idea of creating pieces to last is fundamental to this brand. 0 means: zero waste, reduced pollution, and reduced emissions. 100 means: 100% quality, Made in Italy, sustainability and transparency of the production. Patterns are developed with zero-waste techniques, that eliminates textile waste at the design stage, adopting a zero-waste design approach reduces textile waste and the demand on natural resources. The pieces are 100% made in Italy, created with premium sustainable and traceable materials.

Camilla Carrara, CEO and designer di Zerobarracento, describes the collection as follows: "garments are created with the GOTS certified Bacx™ by Centro Seta organic silks sourced from C.L.A.S.S. e.commerce and the Newlife™ transformed polyester. Shapes and colours were inspired by a Malaysian trip: simplicity and nature are blended giving life to saturated colours".

Chomarat has specialized in scrim reinforcements for construction materials for more than 50 years. Now, it has invested in a new pilot production line to develop its next generation of reinforcements. Unique in the market and designed entirely by CHOMARAT’s teams, this technological innovation was born by the Group’s body of technological know-how. Conceived for the development of next generation cement board and roof-waterproofing reinforcements, the machine is versatile for developing materials for new markets. The new line will become operational in early 2019 at CHOMARAT’s construction plant in Anderson, South Carolina, USA.

A technological innovation for higher performance
The new pilot line will enable CHOMARAT to accelerate its development projects focusing on cost, performance and sustainability. The Group’s goal is to launch a new generation of laid scrim reinforcements for construction materials, with incomparable performance. “We are working on all the parameters (technological, chemical formulations, textile fibers) to optimize the performance of CHOMARAT scrims, such as protecting glass against alkali in cement or increasing impact resistance and water repellency. We plan to stay in front of economic and environmental challenges facing the construction market,” explains Raphaël PLEYNET, Director of Composites & Construction Europe at CHOMARAT.

“This pilot scrim line is a key element in the Group’s global innovation and development strategy. The technological developments achieved on this equipment will enable us to lead through innovation, meet the challenges to come for construction materials, and enhance our value to the market” adds John LEATHAM, Director of Sales and Marketing at CHOMARAT North America.

Combining expertise from textile and chemical-formulation technologies
The scrims designed and developed by CHOMARAT are reputed for their advantages: dimensional stability, laminating quality with other materials (film or veils), excellent mechanical performance, and very good protection against the alkalinity of cement. “CHOMARAT’s knowhow in laid-scrim manufacturing is based on the combined expertise in textile and chemical-formulation technologies. With this new pilot technology, CHOMARAT will be able to build on these two advantages and propose even better-performing materials!” concludes Philippe SANIAL, Director of Research & Technologies at CHOMARAT.

At the Composites Europe in Stuttgart /06 - 08 November 2018), the Institut für Textiltechnik of RWTH Aachen University, short ITA, will be showing products, components and machines along the fibre composite process chain. The ITA will present itself at the booth of the Aachen Center for Integrative Lightweight Construction (AZL) in hall 9, booth E70. Various demonstrators will be used to present selected innovative processes and products over the individual steps. The exhibits come from different fields of application: From mobility applications to the construction sector. Here is an example from the field of "construction composites":

With the concrete bar stool with hybrid carbon reinforcement, the ITA demonstrates that textiles as reinforcement structures for concrete elements allow a enormous geometrical freedom of Design. So far, manual positioning of the textile reinforcement used to be time-consuming and complex, as permitted tolerances are in the millimetre range. Thus the production mainly contributed to the high costs of textile concrete.

At the ITA, the two industrial partners Albani Group GmbH & Co. KG and DuraPact 2.0 Kompetenzzentrum Faserbeton GmbH developed a new hybrid reinforcement with integrated spacer. This hybrid reinforcement reduces the time required to position the reinforcement by up to 60 percent and thus makes the material significantly more

The new, cost-effective hybrid reinforcement contains an integrated spacer and thus faciliates the positioning of dry and coated reinforcements. The integrated spacer allows several layers of reinforcement to be stacked quickly, allowing the desired degree of reinforcement to be set. The hybrid reinforcement consists of a carbon or glass fibre grid joined with a permeable polyamide mat and will be available in roll form from industrial partners in the near future.

TRSA said today that a study published in Infection Control and Hospital Epidemiology painted an unnecessarily alarming picture regarding the risk of C. difficile contamination from hospital linens and potential infectious outbreaks.
The study, titled From ward to washer: The survival of Clostridium difficile spores on hospital bed sheets through a commercial UK NHS healthcare laundry process concludes that “processing infected linen in commercial washer/extractor cycles could disseminate low levels of C. difficile spores and may be contributing to sporadic outbreaks of C. difficile infection (CDI).”

“Therefore, even in the study’s assessment, the findings are conditional,” said TRSA President and CEO Joseph Ricci. Ricci said that additional facts mitigate them even more:
•    The conclusion is based on one wash formula’s inability to meet the British National Health Service (NHS) standard. This standard indicates that water temperature and the amount of time that linen is washed are the true indicators of wash quality.
•    Best-management practices dictate that the quality of the wash process is maximized by using a complete wash formula that includes temperature, chemistry and mechanical action, which are customized to address various soil levels and generate hygienically clean textiles. In addition, heat from drying, ironing and finishing these linens also contributes to the linens’ cleanliness. Perhaps the only valid conclusion that can be reached from this research is that the one wash formula tested in the study is inadequate to remove C. difficile.
•    Most outsourced, professionally laundered healthcare linens and uniforms are processed using a tunnel washer, not washer/extractors used in the research.
•    Most healthcare-related wash formulas are designed to account for time, temperature, chemistry and mechanical action that appropriately eliminate C. diff. For example, the FDA recently approved the use of a disinfectant specifically formulated to kill off C. difficile spores.
•    TRSA has been collecting microbiological testing data since 2014 on linen and uniform service laundries that have achieved and maintained the Hygienically Clean certification by eliminating bacteria on soiled linens to negligible levels; there have been no positive identifications of C. difficile.
•    difficile contamination linked to linens is extremely rare. The best way to protect your facility and patients is to partner with a Hygienically Clean certified laundry.

Candiani launches at Kingpins its new eco-smart denim range in partnership with ROICA™ from Asahi Kasei
Both companies can claim their separate leading roles in textile innovation. Candiani, ‘the Greenest Mill in The Blue World’, is always at the cutting edge of new developments, and ROICA™  with  its  various premium stretch functions. Now they join forces through a unique synergy and an exclusive, custom made premium stretch sustainable ROICA™ yarn developed by Asahi Kasei especially for Candiani.
 
ReLAST is a range of market fresh responsible denim products, designed by Candiani that tick every smart box: from new ways in colouration, to better, more sustainable raw materials, new finishing and fade-tech that minimises water waste, and now with a key responsible stretch ingredient in a specially produced GRS certified ROICA™ yarn that perfectly completes this range making better, more sustainable, sharp fashions for customers looking to live and wear better with better values.

New Colouration values in the K-Seal range come from indigo applied with a water saving Indigo Juice® system. Or in the KN-Cotton range from cotton scraps recycled and dyed with Archroma earth colours. Both are sized with the Kitotex® Vegetal size derived from plants and natural renewables.

A new important partnership marks the path of Itema towards a greener future for the whole denim production chain. Prosperity Textile, one of the main denim producers worldwide, has chosen for its new facility one of the most interesting and sustainable-oriented Itema technologies, iSAVER™ equipped on the Itema R95002denim. Prosperity Textiles is, in fact, one of the early adopters of this new technology chosen for the new plant that the world-famous indigo fabrics producer will open in Vietnam, and that will be exclusively equipped with the latest Itema weaving machine model, demonstrating once again its green, future-oriented approach.

Thanks to its partnership with Itema, Prosperity Textiles makes again a step forward in terms of sustainable innovation, as one of the first denim producers able to successfully turn - even the weaving production - green. A partnership that is planned to be showcased in some of the most important textiles exhibitions worldwide focusing on Asian and denim markets. A path that starts with KingpinsShow, Amsterdam (October 24-25) where the Chinese denim producer will put into the spotlight this brand-new solution aimed at further increasing the eco-driven approach of the company; an important appointment is also in the Itema calendar: the ITMA Asia + CITME 2018 exhibition, Shanghai (October 15-19) where the Italian company showcased the important green step-forward in denim weaving processes and the full range of its innovations.

iSAVER™: the ideal green tool for denim weaving
This new technology, developed by ItemaLab™, the Itema Advanced Innovation Department, isable to completely eliminate the left-hand weft waste, allowing to insert the weft yarns in the fabric without the need of additional yarns. iSAVER™ significantly reduces raw material waste, leading to tangible benefits in terms of machine’s efficiency, cost reduction and energy saving.

Just consider that the weaver will gain a minimum saving of € 2.000 per year per machine, and our planet will gain even more. In fact, for the first time in the weaving industry, a sustainable approach when choosing the weaving equipment is now possible. Thanks to iSAVER™, 1.000 Kg of cotton per machine per year – the 3% of the total raw materials - will be saved, thus avoiding the waste of 20 million liters of water, equivalent to 400.000 showers.

Numbers are clear: the introduction of iSAVER™ clearly sets a new benchmark in terms of sustainability within denim fabric production. Furthermore, the iSAVER™ is one of the key features of the Itema R95002denim, the rapier weaving machine born and designed to weave denim guaranteeing to weavers superior textile quality, outstanding user-friendliness and tangible energy and raw materials saving.

A joint eco-driven path
Itema, understanding very well the importance of saving resources and energy to drive the textile production in the direction of a more conscious manufacturing, focused its attention to develop breakthrough weaving solutions and in 2018 introduced to the market the iSAVER™, a revolutionary device dedicated specifically to denim fabrics able to eliminate the waste selvedge on the left-hand side of the fabric.

This is one of the reasons-why Prosperity Textiles has chosen to adopt this extraordinary technology for its new facility. Today Prosperity Textiles is one of the main denim producers worldwide, counting 1,300 employees and 20 offices worldwide. Moreover, a second state-of-theart denim mill will be inaugurated in Vietnam by the end of 2018.
What makes Prosperity able to stand out on a global scale, is not simply its products high quality but the ability to conciliate flawless denim fabric production with a sustainability-oriented mindset that permeates every stage of their textile supply chain.

Prosperity, indeed, adopted innovative green manufacturing concepts through all stages of the company’s operations, from product development, raw materials procurement and processing, to natural resources and energy utilization including waste management. Prosperity’s denim production is based on the employment of best quality yarns available on the market, while still targeting the most sustainable sources, from BCI to organic, recycled cotton, and from Tencel™ Lyocell to Sustans™, in 2017, more than 20 million yards fabric sales from Prosperity are with sustainable fibers inside.
The introduction of eco-friendly dyeing and finishing practices allows the company to create beautiful indigo shades and performance denims, with less water and energy consumption compared to the traditional systems. Last year, Prosperity produced 20% more fabrics than 2016, yet the water and electricity use and greenhouse gas emission was down by 11.5%, 7.9% and 5.4% respectively.

In this continuous process of improvement and contribution to a greener industry and planet, plays a central role the recent renewal of the historic partnership and strategic alliance with Itema – the leading manufacturer of cutting-edge weaving solutions – which represents the natural evolution of a constant process of research for partners able to support Prosperity Textiles’ growth as a sustainable company.
Up to now, all innovations and efforts done in this regard addressed the traditionally more polluting steps of the denim production. In fact, if the development of green technologies is nowadays spread in many fabric processing stages, such as finishing and dyeing, weaving was not yet capable to provide sustainable solutions to weavers.

• Textile Exchange’s Sustainability Conference - Milan, October 22-24, 2018
• The theme of the 2018 conference is United by Action: Accelerating Sustainability in Textiles and Fashion.

The conference offers an opportunity to connect with industry pioneers and learn about cutting edge solutions and innovations in textile and apparel sustainability. As a result, C.L.A.S.S., headquartered in Milan, the global resource for smart material innovation, education, marketing and communication, will be on hand to support this year’s theme.

Many of the materials the C.L.A.S.S. team will showcase speak to circular economy such as Re.VerSo™, Bemberg™ and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, Iluna Group and TINTEX Textiles and many others that use technological breakthroughs to offer fashion materials that provide significant reductions in water during the manufacturing process, an important step toward responsible future fashion systems.

During Textile Exchange’s Sustainability Conference, Giusy Bettoni, C.L.A.S.S. CEO and Founder and her team will have a dedicated space to engage attendees in an open discussion regarding the importance of fashion business strategies. The experience in the space, that will reflect an New York event created for C.L.A.S.S. by Ginger Design, will start with the vision of a film by Cristina Picchi that represents harmony between the various phases of the textile process and the cycles of natural elements. Visitors will walk through a three-dimensional installation designed by Cécile Feilchenfeldt to inspire creativity and explore the limitless possibilities using innovative smart materials.

“We are always proud to have a presence at international events including this year’s Textile Exchange’s Sustainability Conference. It is a great way for us to share our expertise regarding responsible innovation and new business model strategies. As C.L.A.S.S. is headquartered in Milan, we are proud that they selected our city for this year’s conference. Being held in Milan provides a chance for us to support Textile Exchange regarding smart material innovation, many of them produced in Italy.” said Bettoni.

Just off their return from Première Vision in Paris, Bettoni who is also the Sustainability Consultant for Smart Creation, recognizes the importance for her company to have a strong international presence to spread C.L.A.S.S.’ message to a global audience regarding responsible creation. 

As C.L.A.S.S. enters their second decade of business, they have expanded their business activities to include e-commerce that provides an opportunity for fashion start-up to purchase up to a maximum of 50, an initiative launched to support fashion start-ups. And a new division, C.L.A.S.S. Education, an initiative Bettoni co-founded with James Mendolia, also a Professor, Fashion Institute of Technology. Mendolia has been visiting universities to speak to fashion design, business, textiles and production students in Europe, Asia and North America to encourage attendees to infuse a new way of design thinking and move from a linear to a circular business model.   

• For the first time @Interfilière New York edition, the award winning Interfeel’Award Sustainability ILUNA Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei
• Interfilière New York, 17th–18th October 2018, booth 113

In line with the powerful global trend towards smarter fashion solutions, Iluna Group launches its Embroidery Division. Specialists in lace since 1985, the new Embroidery Division offers a complete and innovative product match in line with the modern expectations of brands and retailers. Staying true to Iluna’s DNA, the introduction of emb roidery and guipure are all produced with only recycled materials.

In addition to the launch of the Embroidery Division, this season novelties include:

1. Since  September  2018,  Iluna  Group’s  products with the right percentage of transformed content are GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified.

2. Of  major  interest  today,  the  launch  of eco - velvet lace  entirely made  of  sustainable  materials  including ROICA Eco - Smart™  Family, Tencel™ Lyocell and  Q - Nova® .

3. Within  the Black  Label  collection,  the  Ultralight series  is  enriched  with  new  multicolor geometric  and floral galloons and allovers: here Iluna changes the color of  the  thread  not  only  in  the background,  but  also  in  the design,  the  same  article  reinvents  itself  in a  variety  of great visual impact.

4. Green   Label   collection, the   Iluna   dedicated range featuring a new responsible approach in respect of the  planet  and  people, able  to deliver  innovation,  beauty and quality, at 360°. In addition to the all over, jacquard, double jacquard and mesh offer, the line is also featuring new stretch Galloon laces fully made with GRS certified recycled materials,  including  the  stretch  thanks  to the introduction of the  unique ROICA™ sustainable yarn part of the ROICA Eco - Smart™ Family.

5. ILUNA has  strategically  included  in  all  their  stretch  laces  only ROICA Eco- Smart™  Family of sustainable yarns since some time.

6. ILUNA can also boast its new STeP (Sustainable Textile Production) certification by Oeko-Tex, a certification  that  clarifies  and  communicates  the  company’s  sustainable  production  commitment. In
addition to this, all products are Oeko - Tex 100 certified.

7. ILUNA has  created  the  new e- shop offering  its  exclusive  materials  to  smaller companies   looking   for   added   values   as: creativity,   innovation,   made   in   Italy   and responsibility.

8. The  whole  collection  is  also  visible online at  its  web  site,  previous  registration, and   orders   can   be   done   directly   online always aiming to customers care.

Nevertheless, for ILUNA smart innovation is not   just   a   project even,   its   space at Interfilière will  be  the stage  where visitors will have  the  opportunity  to  discover the new  collection and to also  to experience and  touch latest boundaries  of  lace smart innovations.

Today ILUNA represents the largest European lace producer, and thanks to its journey toward the most contemporary  way  to  innovate  that  includes  responsibility,  has  also  become  a  reference  point  in  the
international market for a lace offer that is beautiful, innovative and responsible at the same time.  An  alchemy  of  design  and  sustainable  innovation, the  only  eco-fashion  line  that  includes  lace  and stockings,  capable  of  combining  ethics  and  high  quality  standards  with  a  fashion  image  of  bright  and deep colors.