From the Sector

ITMA ASIA + CITME, Asia’s leading trade fair for textile machinery, took place in Shanghai with a considerable presence of VDMA member companies. The round about 40 exhibiting VDMA members covered nearly all different machinery chapters with a focus on spinning and manmade fibers, nonwovens, weaving, braiding, knitting & hosiery, finishing & dyeing and textile processing. They were part of a strong German presence with a total of around 60 German exhibitors – including non-machine manufacturers.

During a press conference on the first day of the show, Dr. Janpeter Horn, chairman of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association and managing director of August Herzog Maschinenfabrik expressed: “After years of cancelled or postponed trade fairs and travel restrictions, this year’s ITMA ASIA + CITME is the first edition of the show that can be attended not just by Chinese but by visitors from various countries and regions. The event is a good opportunity to meet customers and partners again in person and not just on a screen. ITMA ASIA + CITME provides a good chance to deepen the already good relations with China and other Asian countries further and to set-up new partnerships.”

Dr. Horn continued to present latest facts and figures about the German textile machinery industry. Between January and August 2023, the overall exports of textile machinery and accessories summed up to 1.7 billion euros, which was a slight decrease compared to the same period in 2022. The shipping to almost all major markets decreased between January and August: China: 440 million € (2022: 453 million €), Turkey: 205 million € (2022: 265 million €), USA: 177 million € (2022: 144 million €), India: 170 million € (2022: 228 million €).

Numerous VDMA member companies have production sites in the major Asian markets China and India and serve their customers in these countries from there. A latest VDMA business climate survey among the textile machinery companies in China showed, that 75% of all participants assessed their current business situation as either good (6%) or satisfactory (69%). For the coming quarter, 50% of the companies see the market to decline. Asked about the business situation during the next six months, 44% of the companies expect the market to remain stable, 56% expect the situation to become worse. This is also reflected in the HR of the companies: 63% expect the number of employees to remain unchanged.

Trumpler has teamed up with Archroma to offer a leather production process that can be used to produce high-performance leather in a more eco-friendly and cost-efficient way.

The new process DyTan®combines offers an alternative to existing metal-free and chrome-tanned leather. It enables the reliable production of leather with great shavability, color depth and migration and abrasion resistance. Free from metal salts and reactive aldehydes, DyTan® is suitable for a wide range of leather applications, from garment and footwear to automotive and furniture upholstery, for today’s eco-conscious leather producers and consumers.

At the core of the DyTan® process is Archroma’s patented AVICUERO® System, which is based on novel molecules that enable more sustainable leather tanning and dyeing, developed by Archroma in cooperation with leather technology consultant Dr Leather. It enables collagen fibers in the leather to be covalently cross-linked through a simplified process at low temperatures. As a result, the system shows strong potential to save energy and water, while also reducing process time and CO₂ emissions by up to 23%.*

The DyTan® process combines the AVICUERO® System with Trumpler’s bio-based fatliquors and retanning agents based on functional biopolymers produced from hydrolyzed shavings – resource-saving technology that Trumpler has been refining for 15 years.

As a global partner of Archroma, the Trumpler Group is responsible for the distribution of the AVICUERO® System worldwide. Delivering technical support and first-class customer care, Trumpler will help leather manufacturers and brands to implement sustainable tanning and draw on its comprehensive product portfolio and process knowledge of tanning, retanning and fatliquoring processes.
 

* Estimations carried out with the Archroma ONE WAY Impact Calculator show energy savings of up to 25% and reduced process time leading to a reduction in CO₂ emissions of up to 23%, compared to traditional chrome tanning. They also show significant water savings compared to other metal-free tanning systems¹. With the ONE WAY Impact Calculator, customers will be offered personalized calculations for their specific processes.

¹ Trials made at Trumpler GmbH application lab.

At ITMA ASIA + CITME end of November in Shanghai, 40 VDMA members will present their technologies and solutions for the Chinese and Asian markets under the heading "smart technologies for green textile production". This year’s ITMA ASIA is the first major post-Corona textile machinery fair in China.

The exhibiting VDMA members cover nearly all different machinery chapters with a focus on spinning and manmade fibers, nonwovens, weaving, braiding, knitting & hosiery, finishing & dyeing and textile processing.  

The VDMA Textile Machinery Association and VDMA China will be present in the industry hub in Hall 8 zone B to support the members before and during the fair. The industry hub is also contact point for visitors who want to inform themselves about the exhibiting VDMA members. 

Archroma and Shima Seiki have expanded their partnership to bring the industry’s largest library of colors for cotton and polyester to the SDS®-ONE APEX design, planning and virtual sampling system and APEXFiz® (hereafter SDS®-ONE APEX series) subscription software.

Now offering a total of 5,760 color references, SDS-ONE APEX series has added all 1,440 colors for polyester from The Color Atlas by Archroma® to its color library of 4,320 Color Atlas colors for cotton poplin. The new polyester collection ranges from neutral earth tones to vibrant jewel tones and on-trend fluorescent colors, with shades suitable for sportswear, fashion, home furnishings, automotive textiles and more.

The extended color library in SDS®-ONE APEX series will help designers and manufacturers to visualize and evaluate their design choices on realistic fabric simulations and then put them into production with dyes and finishes that meet their desired sustainability profile. The Shima Seiki system also offers a smooth transition to machine programming for quick and accurate production, reduced waste and accelerated time to market.

Each of the 5,760 Color Atlas color references in the SDS®-ONE APEX series design software is available as a physical color standard that includes precise dyeing recipes and compliance data, as well as access to expert technical support from Archroma around the world.

“Polyester remains the most popular choice across many textile segments where high performance is a must. Users of Shima Seiki’s advanced SDS®-ONE APEX series platform will now be able to select from the industry’s largest library of colors for both cotton and polyester and, more importantly, trust that their choice can be reliably executed,” Chris Hipps, Head of Strategic Business Development, Archroma Color Management, said.

“Our colors are formulated with dyes that comply with international eco-standards and work with Archroma’s groundbreaking coloration systems, like FAST SPORT,” he continued.

ISKO provided their latest innovation in material science to British designers, Priya Ahluwalia, Masha Popova, Chet Lo and Aaron Esh, for the London Fashion Week SS24 season.

Alongside supplying their latest denim fabrics, ISKO opened its doors to its London-based product development centre, Creative Room London, for finishing and washing of their final designs as well providing expertise and knowledge in denim design and construction.

Priya Ahluwalia
For Ahluwalia’s Spring Summer 24 collection, entitled Acknowledgements, Creative Director and founder Priya Ahluwalia’s research led her on a journey of creative rediscovery.
ISKO’s Ctrl+Z fabric, which is made entirely from recycled and regenerated fibres, was used to create the flower motif denim showcase within 3 looks across jeans and jackets. This development contains no virgin cotton and uses a minimum of 60% recycled materials and the remainder is regenerated cellulose fibres while still giving a look and feel identical to traditional denim and speaks to Ahluwalia’s ongoing commitment to sustainable design and business practices.

Chet Lo
This season, Chet Lo took an active stand in reclaiming the power lost during his youth, healing the childhood wounds inflicted by a society that sidelined differences instead of celebrating them.
ISKO’s Ctrl+Z fabric and specialist lasering techniques from ISKO’s Creative Room was used across three looks featuring signature Chet Lo erotic laser prints across denim bottoms.

Aaron Esh
The SS24 season marked the brand’s debut at London Fashion Week, a homecoming of sorts for Esh, who was born and raised in the heart of the British capital, studied at Central Saint Martins and became a finalist at the LVMH Prize earlier this year. The early impulses of Aaron Esh remain steadfast: clothes that combine establishment rigour with the rebellious spirit of youth culture, devotedly crafted for a generation who feels somewhere in-between.
Aaron created bootleg denim ripped jeans made entirely from ISKO Denim using R-TWO50 fabric, which comprises a minimum of 50% pre and post-consumer recycled content. The designer noted the addition of denim accompanied by leathers add a new level of depth to their latest collection.

Masha Popova
Masha Popova’s sophomore catwalk outing, MONSTER was a “seasonless” offering that combines Autumn Winter 2023 and Spring Summer 2024.
Masha continued her obsession with denim manipulation, using various finishings including over-dyeing, flocking, patchwork, scratching and fraying in a variety of colours from vibrant green to silver across jeans, tops and jackets, all developed with the help of ISKO’s Creative Room, London.

The Lenzing Group has received certification from the internationally recognized EU Ecolabel for its fibers at the Indonesian site. This means that Lenzing fibers produced in Purwakarta (PT. South Pacific Viscose) meet high environmental standards. The product portfolio thus expands and qualifies for the production of LENZING™ ECOVERO™ brand fibers for textiles and VEOCEL™ brand fibers for nonwoven applications.

The substantial investment of EUR 100 mn to modernize the Indonesian site has enabled Lenzing to significantly reduce its specific emissions. In addition, the site recently began sourcing energy from renewable sources and is driving the conversion to biomass in line with Lenzing's goals of reducing group-wide carbon emissions per ton of product sold by 50 percent by 2030 and achieving carbon-neutral production by 2050.

Anthropogenic climate change is one of the most pressing problems of our time, to which both the global textile and nonwovens industries make a major contribution. LENZING™ ECOVERO™ viscose fibers (for textiles) and VEOCEL™ Viscose (for nonwovens) have been proven to cause significantly less greenhouse gas emissions and water pollution than conventional viscose. At the Indonesian site, Lenzing also plans to produce the innovative LENZING™ ECOVERO™ Black fibers in the future, which also require less energy and water in textile chain thanks to the spun-dyeing process and thus also have a lower carbon footprint in their life cycle as a textile product.

Deakin University has signed a partnership agreement with Geelong-based company Xefco as part of its Recycling and Clean Energy Commercialisation Hub (REACH) to conduct new research to transform how our clothing, including jeans, get their colour.

Jeans are one of the most worn garments in the world, but they are also one of the least environmentally friendly, taking around 75 litres of water to dye just one pair.

Deakin’s work with Xefco is helping to explore if a waterless manufacturing process can replace the water intensive processes the clothing industry has used for hundreds of years. The new technology in development is called ‘Ausora’.

Associate Professor Alessandra Sutti, from Deakin’s Institute for Frontier Materials, said it was exciting to be on the commercialisation journey with Xefco, working with the company to discover what is possible and hopefully reduce the world’s fashion footprint.

“If successful, the Ausora technology, which colours fabrics without the need for large quantities of water, will put us a step closer to more efficient and sustainable clothing manufacturing,” Associate Professor Sutti said.

Xefco CEO Tom Hussey said the company’s new pilot plant, housed at Deakin in Geelong, will test different materials, including specialised fabrics such as waterproof items like outdoor jackets and jeans.

“This is the first stage of Xefco’s vision for the technology, with the REACH project focused on demonstrating the commercial viability of the technology at pilot scale and developing processes so it can be scaled up for commercial production,” Mr Hussey said.

“Together, Deakin and Xefco will push the limits of innovation and see what is possible.”
Xefco’s pilot plant is co-located with Deakin researchers at ManuFutures, the state-of-the-art advanced manufacturing hub at Deakin’s Waurn Ponds campus.

Founded in 2018 Xefco now employs 17 people and its products are already making a difference across the world. Its XReflex technology, which reduces consumption of insulation materials, is being used by some of the world’s leading apparel and fashion brands including The North Face.

Backed by a $50 million grant from the Australian Government’s inaugural Trailblazer Universities Program, with industry and university support taking the total project value to $380 million, REACH is facilitating the development of greener supply chains and accelerating business success as markets move from a throughput economy to a circular economy.

Archroma has won several major accolades at the Just Style 2023 Excellence Awards:

• Business Expansion – Digital Platform award: Color Atlas online library
• Innovation – Dyes award:
  o FiberColors®
  o Diresul® Evolution Black liq
  o NOVACRON® Atlantic EC-NC

Digital Platform Award for The Color Atlas by Archroma®
The Color Atlas by Archroma® empowers fashion designers and stylists with off-the-shelf color inspiration and the ability to quickly and reliably execute their design intent with products that meet their desired sustainability profile and comply with international eco-standards.

Innovation Awards for Dyeing Technologies
Archroma was also recognized for its innovation in dye technology with three Just Style Excellence Awards.

Archroma’s FiberColors® technology was awarded for helping move the industry towards a circular economy. Synthesized with a minimum 50% textile waste based raw material, FiberColors® transforms pre- and post-industrial fashion and textile waste into gorgeous upcycled colors – allowing brands to color their new collections with their pre-loved collections.

Diresul® Evolution Black liq, based on the company’s latest synthesis technology, has advantages over traditional sulfur black including large reductions in the amount of water needed in dye synthesis and a unique shade and wash-down effect when compared with existing black denim.

Novacron® Atlantic EC-NC won its Just Style Excellence Award for addressing mill challenges with the industry’s first blue element to deliver chlorine- and nitrogen oxide (NOx)-fastness alongside lightfastness. Based on a patented dye molecule, it offers a trouble-free way to produce more sustainable cotton casual wear and home textiles that look as good as new for longer.

Archroma, a leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, and Somelos, a vertically integrated textile group in Portugal, have joined forces to advance sustainable cotton processing with a new water-saving dyeing and finishing process that generates no wastewater.

Conventional cotton dyeing and finishing requires substantial water and chemical inputs and produces a large volume of wastewater. Long-lasting wash-down effects in particular, traditionally require two water-intensive processes: one to get the color intensity and one to achieve the washed-down contrast. Relying on such resource-intensive processes is of particular concern in nations affected by drought and water scarcity, like Portugal, the home of Somelos since its founding in 1958.

To address this challenge, Archroma and Somelos have now developed the New Dry Dyeing/Ox Finishing process for the production of bottoms and shirting in cotton fabrics. Based on Archroma’s Pad-Ox dyeing process, which combines oxidation and fixation into one step, and the latest technologies for washdown effects, including ozone and laser treatments, it delivers water savings of up to 97% compared to conventional cotton dyeing and finishing.

The New Dry Dyeing/Ox Finishing process only uses water to prepare the dye and oxidation baths. Archroma Diresul® RDT liquid pre-reduced sulfur dyes ensure easy washdown and direct fixation—with no need for pre-washing—delivering shorter processing, cleaner production and high wash -fastness.

Archroma, a leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, is teaming up with COLOURizd™, an innovator specializing in sustainable textile dyeing technologies, to set a new standard for the eco-friendlier production of sustainable textiles.

The new collaboration will enable fabric mills and brands to combine Archroma pigment coloration solutions with the COLOURizd™ QuantumCOLOUR™ yarn-coloring technology to produce high-quality, high-performance textiles with maximum consumer appeal and minimal environmental impact.

Conventional fiber-reactive methods of dyeing cellulosic and synthetic yarns are multi-step resource-intensive processes that use up to 95 liters of water per kilograms of colored yarn and discharge approximately 94 liters of effluent.

In contrast, the innovative QuantumCOLOUR™ process injects pigment and a binder directly into the yarn, using only 0.95 liters of water per kilograms of colored yarn while producing zero effluent. This represents an unprecedented reduction of 98% in water consumption alongside zero wastewater discharge, zero discharge of harmful chemicals, 73% decrease in carbon footprint and 50% reduction in energy use.*

With Archroma, textile manufacturers and apparel brands can add further value to the QuantumCOLOUR™ process with tailor-made system solutions, including JUST COLOR. This formaldehyde-free** pigment coloration system is based on Archroma’s revolutionary Printofix® pigment dispersions and Helizarin® binders to deliver exceptionally soft fabrics with high fastness and durability, while also enabling energy and chemical savings and higher productivity.

* As tested by Peterson Control Union
** Below limits of detection according to industry standard test methods