From the Sector

• Weniger als 1% Textilmüll wird derzeit zu neuer Kleidung recycelt
• 7,5 Millionen Tonnen Textilmüll fallen jährlich in Europa an
• Nur 30-35% des Textilmülls werden getrennt gesammelt
• Kreislaufwirtschaft für Textilien könnte 2030 15.000 neue Jobs in Europa schaffen und 6-8 Milliarden Euro Marktgröße erreichen
• 6-7 Milliarden Euro an Anstoß-Investitionen bis 2030 nötig

Mehr als 15 Kilogramm Textilmüll produziert jeder Mensch in Europa im Durchschnitt pro Jahr, 2030 könnten es bereits über 20 Kilogramm pro Kopf sein. Der größte Anteil (85%) des Abfalls wird durch die privaten Haushalte verursacht: aus ihrer Kleidung und Heimtextilien. Weniger als 1% dieses Mülls wird derzeit in der EU-27 und der Schweiz zu neuen Textilprodukten recycelt. Mehr als 65% landen ohne Umwege direkt in der Müllverbrennung oder auf der Mülldeponie.

„Dabei könnten, wenn das volle technische Recyclingpotenzial genutzt und mehr Textilien gesammelt würden, bereits im Jahr 2030 zwischen 18 und 26 Prozent des Textilmülls für die Herstellung von neuen Kleidungsstücken wiederverwertet werden“, sagt Karl-Hendrik Magnus, Senior Partner und Leiter der Modeindustrieberatung bei McKinsey in Deutschland. „Ein skaliertes Textilrecycling würde nicht nur vier Millionen Tonnen CO₂ einsparen, sondern auch einen profitablen Wirtschaftszweig mit 15.000 Jobs in Europa schaffen.“ Das sind Ergebnisse der Studie „Scaling textile recycling in Europe – turning waste into value“ von McKinsey & Company, für die Szenarien berechnet wurden, wie sich das Textilmüllvolumen sowie Sammel- und Recyclingraten bis 2030 entwickeln können.

Höhere Sammelrate von Kleidung entscheidend für mehr Recycling
Derzeit wird etwa ein Drittel der benutzten Kleidung gesammelt und wiederverwendet: entweder als Second-Hand-Mode, als grob recyceltes Textilprodukt wie Lappen und weniger als 1% als recycelte Textilfasern für neue Mode. Diese Sammelrate könnte bis 2030 auf 50-80% gesteigert werden. Entsprechend könnte auch die Kreislaufwirtschaft, die aus Textilabfall neue Fasern für Mode produziert, auf 18-26% skaliert werden. Heute ist es weniger als 1%. „Dieses so genannte Fiber-to-fiber-Recycling, bei dem aus Textilfasern neue Fasern für Mode hergestellt werden, stellt die nachhaltigste Möglichkeit dar, um aus Müll etwas Neues mit Wert zu generieren“, erklärt Jonatan Janmark, Co-Autor der Studie und Partner im Stockholmer Büro von McKinsey. Gleichzeitig bietet diese Kreislaufwirtschaft enormes finanzielles Potenzial mit sechs bis acht Milliarden Euro Umsatz als Marktgröße und möglichen jährlichen Renditen von 20-25% für die Recyclingindustrie.

Möglich wird diese Entwicklung hin zur Kreislaufwirtschaft durch neue Technologien, wie mechanisches Recycling von Baumwolle, das bereits recht etabliert ist, die innovative Verarbeitung zu Viskosefasern sowie chemisches Recycling für die Wiederverwertung von Polyester, was aktuell im Teststadium ist. Allerdings steht das Sammeln und die Aufbereitung der Altbekleidung und -textilien durch fragmentierte, kleinteilige Strukturen und noch meist manuelle Arbeitsvorgänge immer noch vor großen Herausforderungen.  Kleidungsabfälle müssen nach Qualitätskriterien sortiert, Knöpfe und Reißverschlüsse entfernt und Faserzusammensetzungen eindeutig identifiziert werden. Viele Produkte aus Mischfasern stellen noch ein ungelöstes Problem für Fiber-to-fiber-Recycling dar.

Investitionen für Skalierung nötig
Um das volle Potenzial des Textilrecyclings nutzen zu können, werden insgesamt etwa 6-7 Milliarden Euro an Investitionen bis 2030 benötigt, die in der gesamten Wertschöpfungskette wie beim Sammeln, Sortieren und dem Aufbau von Recyclingfabriken gebraucht werden. „Die Investition ins Fiber-to-fiber-Recycling lohnt sich nicht nur aus Nachhaltigkeitsgründen. Es können beim Recycling neue Rohmaterialien entstehen, die mehr Modeproduktion in Europa ermöglichen würden. Dadurch könnte diese Recyclingindustrie sogar noch mehr Wert generieren“, sagt Jonatan Janmark.

The FACHPACK in Nuremberg ranks among the most important packaging industry gatherings. From 27 to 29 September 2022, Sappi will be presenting its latest products and solutions for functional paper packaging, flexible packaging papers, label papers, containerboard and paperboard. The company is focusing its efforts on sustainable, recyclable and innovative solutions.

• Wide range of barrier papers in the market for sustainable and recyclable packaging solutions
• High-impact brand presence in corrugated board packaging thanks to Fusion Nature Plus in combination with Fusion Topliner
• Parade Label Pro wet-glue label paper for an efficient operation and an excellent visual impression

Wide range of barrier papers
Sappi’s ultimate goal as a specialist in barrier papers is to replace non-recyclable aluminium and plastic multi-layer laminates through the introduction of truly sustainable alternatives that meet all market requirements in terms of performance and recycling. Sappi is continuously expanding its portfolio of barrier papers. At the show, Sappi will be showcasing several examples of food and non-food applications using these barrier papers.

A smooth surface and a high degree of whiteness: Parade Label Pro
Sappi will also be presenting its new, non-wet-strength wet-glue label paper Parade Label Pro – featuring samples from all over the world. This glossy, double-coated quality paper offers a smooth surface plus a high degree of whiteness. It’s suitable for numerous label and flexible packaging applications, such as labels for disposable bottles, food and non-food containers as well as wrappers for a variety of products. It can be printed in offset, flexo and gravure, and finished with hot foil and blind embossing, for example.

Brand presentation that appeals to the senses
“For manufacturers of branded goods, it is becoming increasingly important to convey brand values and product characteristics in a way that is emotionally appealing and that really sets the stage,” explains Luis Mata, Sales Director Packaging of Sappi Europe. At the FACHPACK, Sappi will also be presenting its containerboard products for corrugated board applications, which, with their brilliant colour reproduction, enhance on-shelf product impact and ensure real brand differentiation.

Sappi’s popular Algro Design paperboard portfolio also allows the design scope and leeway to communicate brand values in an emotionally appealing way.

Kornit Digital Ltd. (NASDAQ: KRNT) (“Kornit”), a worldwide market leader in sustainable, on-demand digital fashionx  and textile production technologies, has opened the doors to a new interactive booth  at one of the world’s largest virtual printing tradeshows – Printing Expo Online 2022. The exhibit offers all the benefits of a physical tradeshow, but with convenient, online access any time.

Printing Expo Online is one of the most popular online tradeshows for the printing industry. Tailored to meet the demands of evolving businesses, the show is open 24-7-365 days a year – and has welcomed over 60,000 global visitors since November 2020. Kornit’s virtual exhibit is fully aligned with customer requests for a more flexible tradeshow experience – allowing participation at their convenience.

The multi-story showroom makes it possible to self-navigate across Kornit’s game changing single-step, digital direct-to-garment (DTG) and direct-to-fabric (DTF) solutions – unlocking new possibilities for on demand, sustainable digital fashion and textile production. Solutions on display include  Kornit Atlas MAX, the recently introduced Kornit Atlas MAX Poly, Kornit Presto MAX and the KornitX Workflow offering.

Tata Communications, a global digital ecosystem enabler, announces its financial results for the quarter ended 30th June 2022.

Consolidated financial highlights

• Consolidated revenue stood at INR 4,311 crore (USD 558.9 Mn); increasing +5.1% YoY. Sequentially, growth in revenue followed upsides in the Data business
• Consolidated EBITDA came in at INR 1,077 crore (USD 139.7 Mn); enhanced +9.2% YoY, where margins stood at 25%, growing by 95 Bps YoY
• Consolidated PAT stood at INR 544 crore (USD 70.5 Mn) from INR 296 crore (USD 40.1 Mn) in Q1 FY22, marking an increase of +83.6% YoY
• Cash CAPEX for this quarter stood at USD 42.7 Mn relative to USD 46.2 Mn in Q1 FY22

Data services portfolio

• Data business revenues came in at INR 3,340 crore (USD 433.1 Mn), recording an increase of +7.6% YoY. Digital Platforms and Services delivered robust growth of +12.3% YoY
• EBITDA stood at INR 969 crore (USD 125.7 Mn), up +4% YoY backed by consistent delivery in Core Connectivity and Digital Platforms and Services
• The Core Connectivity portfolio reported growth of +3.6% YoY in revenue; EBITDA enhanced by +2.6% YoY, with margins coming in at 42.5%

EFI™ Reggiani, the industrial textile printing business of printing technology company Electronics For Imaging, Inc. (EFI), has broken ground on a new textile campus to accommodate ongoing growth. The new 20,000-square-metre campus in Comun Nuovo, Bergamo, Italy, is expected to be completed midyear in 2023.

Sustainability and employee well-being at the centre
The new facility was designed with environmental sustainability and employee well-being in mind. That focus includes plans to install 400 kilowatts of solar panels supplying 60% of the facility’s total energy requirements. Moreover, the building will benefit from superior thermal insulation that will ensure a reduction in heating and cooling costs. Numerous skylights in the facility will provide better natural lighting and a reduction in artificial lighting usage.
 
Green space on the campus was a priority in the design process, covering an estimated 20% of the total area. For a more welcoming work environment, the campus will also feature a canteen and gymnasium for employee use.
 
A 3,000-square-metre demo centre in the new facility will be nearly twice as large as the current EFI Reggiani demo centre in Grassobbio, Italy, offering a high-end, high-tech showcase for state-of-the-art EFI Reggiani printers, as well as Mezzera pre- and post-treatment and Jaeggli yarn treatment products. The demo centre will also feature EFI Reggiani’s recently acquired portfolio of Inèdit raster image processing (RIP) and workflow software solutions.
 
Transforming the textile industry through innovation in green
Since the launch of its first analogue printer, to its newest digital solutions, EFI Reggiani has at its core a heritage and expertise that have contributed to the transformation of the textile industry worldwide. With its total commitment to providing “Innovation in Green,” EFI Reggiani’s leadership is the result of extensive research targeted at improving productivity, quality and sustainability in its customers’ operations. The company is focused on optimising the textile manufacturing process – and reducing energy use, water consumption and overall environmental impact – to ensure customers’ business growth and profitability.
 
Over the years, EFI Reggiani’s product portfolio has continued to expand, ranging from rotary and flatbed printing machines, to scanning/multi-pass digital printers, to fast digital textile printers.

• Order intake of CHF 869.4 million, order backlog of more than CHF 2 100 million
• Sales of CHF 620.6 million, preproduced deliveries in the three-digit million range had to be postponed until the second half of 2022
• EBIT of CHF -10.2 million, net result of CHF -25.2 million due to significant cost increases, additional costs, and acquisition-related expenses
• Action plan to increase sales and profitability
• Rieter site Winterthur
• Outlook

Rieter continued to be successful in the market in the first half of 2022. Based on the company’s technology leadership, innovative product portfolio and the completion of the ring- and compact-spinning system, a high order intake and a significant increase in sales were generated. The increase in sales was achieved even though preproduced deliveries in the three-digit million range had to be postponed until the second half of 2022. The order backlog is at a record level. Despite higher sales, the significant increase in material and logistics costs, additional costs for compensation of the material shortages and the expenditure incurred for the acquisition in the years 2021/2022 resulted in a loss. Rieter is implementing an action plan to increase sales and profitability. The sales process for the remaining land owned by Rieter was initiated.

Order Intake and Order Backlog
Rieter posted an order intake of CHF 869.4 million, which included CHF 176.6 million from the businesses acquired in the years 2021/2022. As expected, demand has thus returned to normal compared with the exceptionally high figure for the prior-year period, but remains well above the average figure for the last five years of around CHF 570 million (first half 2021: CHF 975.3 million, first half 2022 excluding acquisition effect CHF 692.8 million).

The regional shift in demand with investments in additional spinning capacity outside China along with investments in the competitiveness of Chinese spinning mills continues. Rieter benefits from its technology leadership, the innovative product portfolio and the completion of the ring- and compact-spinning system through the acquisition of the automatic winding machine business. The largest order intakes came from India, Turkey, China, Uzbekistan, and Pakistan.

On June 30, 2022, the company had an order backlog of more than CHF 2 100 million (June 30, 2021: CHF 1 135 million). Cancellations in the reporting period amounted to around 5% of the order backlog.

Sales
The Rieter Group posted sales of CHF 620.6 million, which included CHF 68.9 million from the businesses acquired in the years 2021/2022 (first half 2021: CHF 400.5 million).

As a result, sales were significantly higher than in the prior-year period, although preproduced deliveries, which mainly affected the Business Group Machines & Systems, in the three-digit million range had to be postponed until the second half of 2022. The reasons for the postponements were the COVID lockdown in China and supply chain bottlenecks.

EBIT, Net Result and Free Cash Flow
Rieter posted a loss of CHF -10.2 million at the EBIT level in the first half of 2022.

Earnings were impacted by significantly higher material and logistics costs. The price increases already implemented are having a delayed effect, mainly in the Business Group Machines & Systems, and were therefore unable to compensate for the high increase in costs. In addition, costs in connection with material shortages negatively impacted profitability. The result also includes acquisition-related expenses of CHF -11.2 million.

The loss at the net result level was CHF -25.2 million, of which CHF -17.6 million was due to the acquisition.

Free cash flow was CHF -57.1 million, attributable to the build-up of inventories in connection with the high order backlog and postponed deliveries.

Action Plan to Increase Sales and Profitability
Rieter is implementing a comprehensive package of measures with the aim of increasing sales and profitability in the second half of 2022.

The package focuses on two main priorities: Firstly, Rieter is continuing to systematically implement price increases while working to improve the quality of margins of the order backlog, so as to compensate for cost increases in materials and logistics.
Secondly, Rieter is working closely with key suppliers and is developing alternative solutions to eliminate material bottlenecks, as far as possible, in order to safeguard deliveries.

Rieter Site Winterthur
The Board of Directors has decided to begin the process for the sale of the remaining land at the Rieter site in Winterthur (Switzerland). In total, around 75 000 m2 of land will be sold.

Outlook
As already reported, Rieter expects demand for new systems to normalize further in the coming months. Due to the capacity utilization at spinning mills, the company anticipates that demand for consumables, wear & tear and spare parts will remain at a good level.

For the full year 2022, due to the high order backlog and the consolidation of the businesses acquired from Saurer, Rieter expects sales of around CHF 1 400 million (2021: CHF 969.2 million). The reduced sales forecast compared to early 2022 (March 2022: CHF 1 500 million) reflects the impact of global supply bottlenecks. The realization of sales revenue from the order backlog continues to be associated with risks in relation to the well-known challenges.

Despite significantly higher sales, Rieter expects EBIT and net result for 2022 to be below the previous year’s level. This is due to the considerable increases in the cost of materials and logistics, additional costs for compensation of material shortages as well expenses in connection with the acquisition in the years 2021/2022. Despite the price increases already implemented, global cost increases continue to pose a risk to the growth of profitability.

The adidas TERREX HS¹ is one of the first knitted products to be made in part with Spinnova technology. At least 30% of the fabric in this mid-layer hiking hoodie comes from wood-based SPINNOVA® fibres (other fibres)* and 70% from cotton (organic).

Adidas is committed to helping End Plastic Waste via a three-loop strategy that consists of using recycled materials, materials that can be made to be remade and in the case of Made with Nature, products created in part with natural ingredients, such as the adidas TERREX HS¹.  

The first product to emerge from this partnership, the adidas TERREX HS¹ mid-layer is a piece of multi-functional gear that works on the trails and then rolls up into its hood for easy storage or to create a pillow on longer adventures. It was designed using UNITEFIT – an all-gender fit system created with a spectrum of sizes, genders, and forms in mind.

Made in part with Spinnova technology , a minimum of 30% of the fabric in the adidas TERREX HS¹ comes from wood-based SPINNOVA® fibres (other fibres)* that are made by grinding wood pulp with water into a paste and then spun into a textile fibre.

The product also works with the material’s natural color. Since no dyeing or bleaching is applied, in turn this uses less water compared to the standard dyeing process.

* (Rayon) in US, (New type of cellulose fibre) in China

• Commitment for a sustainable fashion industry

RadiciGroup participated in the third edition of PHYGITAL SUSTAINABILITY EXPO, which took place on 11 and 12 July in Rome. The event was focused on the ecological transition of fashion and design brands through technological innovation.

During the “narrated fashion show”, at the archaeological site of the Museo Dei Fori Imperiali, two sustainable garments by RadiciGroup were shown: the first completely recyclable ski suit made with recycled nylon and the Yamamay swimsuit made with polyester yarn obtained from recycling of plastic bottles.

Yamamay chose the sustainable polyester yarn Repetable® by RadiciGroup, for its new green beachwear proposal, with the aim of combining beauty and sustainability. Repetable is an innovative polyester yarn obtained through a process of recycling plastic bottles. Compared to virgin polyester, Repetable allows lower CO₂ emissions (-45%), lower water consumption (-90%) and lower energy consumption (-60%), while guaranteeing high performance. The new line “Edit” by Yamamay, which includes the swimsuit made with Repetable, has already been on the market since the end of last May.

The participation of RadiciGroup in the PHYGITAL SUSTAINABILITY EXPO represents further confirmation of the Group commitment to creating a fashion industry that is increasingly respectful of the environment, thanks to the involvement of all the players in the supply chain, which are most sensitive to sustainability.

ROICA™, Asahi Kasei's premium stretch fiber manufacturer, strengthens its presence in the high fashion segment thanks to its established network of partners, who will present their latest innovations - activated by ROICA™ - at the upcoming edition of Milano Unica, taking place at Rho Fiera Milano from 12th to 14th July 2022.

Going more in depth in the offers of ROICA™ partners for this season of Milano Unica, they are:

• Cifra, which presents its innovative garments for men and women, combining fashion and function. Base layers, tops, leggings and jumpsuits are made with natural yarns, or recycled pre- and post-consumer yarns in combination with ROICA™ EF, the sustainable recycled stretch yarn able to complete proposals that offer design, performance and responsibility. The design of the garments, created in Cifra's design office, offers a perfect shape with body mapping technology that creates dedicated ventilation zones, for a feeling of comfort and freshness as well as an innovative aesthetic impact.
• Iluna Group, whose journey into the new dimension of responsibility continues with developments in GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified recycled yarns aimed at unprecedented effects in looks, performance and hands. Brand new for this edition of Première Vision is the inclusion of GOTS-certified organic cotton in GRS-certified galloons and allover lace containing ROICA™ EF, so as to meet market demands for natural comfort in the underwear sphere.
• Maglificio Ripa, which presents the Splash collection for summer 2024, developed in two major themes, united by the same focus on sustainability that results in the use of recycled pre- and post-consumer polyamide and polyester yarns including ROICA™ EF for the sustainable recycled stretch fiber. The first theme encompasses printed, 3D jacquard fabrics, ennobled by innovative processes that move the bottoms for an organic and sometimes irreverent final look. The second theme embodies a cocoon spirit, enveloping like a caress, soft as a hug.
• Penn Textile Solutions/Penn Italia, whose highlights of the new collection are on one side fabrics developed with the use of Neride eco yarns by Nurel with ROICA™ V550, characterized by restraining lace effect, soft touch and breathable, in combination with tulle as a sustainable basic, and on the other side charmeuses with soft hand, raw cut in combination with a band fabric from the dreamshape family with reinforced gripping edge, made again in Neride eco yarns by Nurel with ROICA™ V550
• Piave Maitex, whose orientation is, as always, to present new products with the right  balance between technological innovation and aesthetic look, between fashion and comfort, proposals that include sustainable fabrics made in recycled polyester,  polyamide and the sustainable recycled stretch fiber ROICA™ EF, three-dimensional and optical, perforated, plush effects, made by prioritizing technical functionalities such as waterproofness, breathability, transfer and moisture management, opacity and anti-UV as well as anti-abrasion.
• Sitip, which is one of the premium partners, together with ROICA™, for the creation of the first Scott Racing Team’s responsible biking uniform. This year, the evolution of research and development has also led to the creation of new responsible shorts, made with NATIVE-THUNDERBIKE POWER fabric by Sitip in recycled polyamide and ROICA™ EF yarn by Asahi Kasei. A fabric designed for high-performance sports, particularly suitable for making cycling pants for its maximum coverage and UV protection - thanks to ECLIPSE Sun Protection technology - breathability, comfort and fit. Also the shirt has been produced with Sitip recycled fabrics - NATIVE-BICIMANIA and NATIVE-PIRATA - made with Asahi Kasei's ROICA™ EF sustainable, stretch and certified recycled yarns.

Lectra, whose connected industrial equipment and software facilitate the digital transformation and Industry 4.0 transition of fashion, automotive and furniture companies, announces that it has been named one of the 11 French companies selected for the 2022 edition of Deloitte France’s Best Managed Companies program.
 
Established 30 years ago by Deloitte Canada and launched in France at the end of 2021, this program recognizes excellence in companies that stand out for the quality of their management and their performance, through a rigorous and independent selection process. Companies are assessed on their long-term strategy, talent management, innovation capacity and CSR policy, as well as their governance and financial management. On one hand, these criteria assess the company's distinguishing features and, on the other hand, its capacity to address current and future challenges.
 
Lectra is one of 11 French companies recognized as the Best Managed Companies for 2022. “For this first edition, I am delighted to announce that Lectra is one of the companies to have obtained our Best Managed Companies mark of excellence,” says Eric Forest, Deloitte Private Associate and Head of the Best Managed Companies program. “Throughout the selection process, Lectra shone through with its extensive strategic vision, solid financial and innovative culture, and its ability to decrypt trends in order to adapt its solutions to changes and the needs of its different markets. This enables Lectra to be a strategic partner to guide its customers in their digital transformation.” Thanks to its capacity to develop innovations, be that with equipment, software or services, and its mastery of technologies such as IoT, the cloud, artificial intelligence and big data, Lectra plays a key role in helping fashion, automotive and furniture industry players evolve towards Industry 4.0.
 
“Obtaining the Best Managed Companies mark of excellence is great recognition for all of our teams at Lectra. I would like to thank all Lectra employees for this collective achievement,” says Daniel Harari, Lectra’s Chairman and CEO. “The work we have carried out together has enabled Lectra to become a global technological leader. This recognition inspires us to continue with our commitment to the Industry 4.0 revolution and to the success of our customers.”