From the Sector

Starting from ROICA Eco-Smart™ family by Asahi Kasei the range of responsibly made premium stretch yarns for everyday life and continuing with Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei, a noteworthy material made from the smart-tech transformation of cotton linter bio-utility waste, converted through a traceable and transparent closed loop process. Since 1931, Bemberg™ is the material definition for responsible luxury, a one-of-a-kind, matchless and original options characterized by cool exquisite comfort, whose smart heritage is born in a circular economy.

A great example of circular economy / circularity is represented by ECOTEC® by Marchi&Fildi, a new exclusive range of smart textile design solutions produced through an exclusive, fully traceable and certified production process. The ability to transforms pre-consumer cuts into an excellence material with a yarn that contains up to 80% of transformed material, a result unequalled in the textile world is the perfect confirmation of the concrete commitment to responsible innovation by Marchi&Fildi.
 
A. Stelloni Collection by Mapel, a renowned textile company with a vast experience in the production of fabrics of the highest quality, will showcase an exclusive range in Re.VerSo™ wool, cashmere and Baby Camel, created out of the deep experience of the Re.VerSo™ supply chain and its sure knowledge of fabric production.

After the success of the two first editions, JEC World organizes the third edition of Startup Booster, the leading startup competition in Composites, where ten startups will present their innovation in front of a jury of experts.

EC Group launched Startup Booster programme in 2017 to get closer to the startup world, to attract the new generation of composites entrepreneurs and put them at the forefront of the industry.

The program gives the floor to 10 startups, each of them having five minutes to present their innovation, on March 12, 2019, from 10.30 AM in Agora Stage (Hall 5) in front of a jury of experts from the composites industry.

These 10 startups will be also showcasing within the Startup Booster Village, during the three days, and will benefit from a dedicated program, including workshops with Startup Booster Main Innovation partners’ Airbus & Daimler, and Innovation partner’s Altair.

“Daimler being one of the main Innovation Partner of the Startup Booster, we are looking for innovations, in particular sustainable technologies and processes”, said Dr. Karl-Heinz FUELLER, Responsible for material innovations and BIW concept development, Daimler AG.

“As a main Innovation Partner of the Startup Booster competition we get fantastic direct engagement with the innovators who are defining solutions for the future”, said Jelle BLOEMHOF, Head of Manufacturing Technologies of Composite at Airbus.

Driven by its natural inclination for the implementation of smart and innovative solutions fully in line with the latest global fashion trends, Iluna Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei join the latest edition of the Italian tradeshow Milano Unica, conceived, organized and driven by entrepreneurs, to offer international visibility to the world of textiles in a highly qualified context, in line with the quality of its products.

Experts in the production of stretch lace since 1985, ILUNA today represents the largest European laces’producer. Thanks to the effectiveness of their approach and to their solid and continued commitment, Iluna Group has been the very first lace producer to receive the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification for their transformed products, together with the company certification STeP (Sustainable Textile Production by Oeko –Tex®).

A relevant achievement for the firm that, thanks to the Green Label collection (a peculiar range that features a 360-degree responsible approach) made responsible innovation a key value for its production that focuses on smart ingredients as ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, TENCEL™ Lyocell and Q-Nova® by Fulgar.

Driven by its natural inclination for the implementation of smart and innovative solutions fully in line with the latest global fashion trends, Iluna Group with ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei join the latest edition of the Parisian tradeshow for lingerie, and activewear materials and accessories.

Experts in the production of stretch lace since 1985, ILUNA today represents the largest European producer. Thanks to the effectiveness of their approach and to their solid and continued commitment, Iluna Group has been the very first lace producer to have gained the GRS (Global Recycled Standard) for their transformed products, together with the company certification STeP (Sustainable Textile Production by Oeko –Tex®).
A relevant achievement for the firm that, thanks to the Green Label collection (a peculiar range that features a 360-degree responsible approach) make responsible innovation an asset for production that focuses on smart ingredients as ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, Tencel™ Lyocell and Q-Nova® by Fulgar.

Of major interest is the fact that the Iluna fashion R&D based its strategic choice for the S/S2020 on the extension of Textronic offer, that belongs to Ultralight series, enriched with new multicolor galloons and raschel allovers. The change of the color of thread in the background as well as in the design gives the green to the reinvention of the same article now perceived in a completely different and impactful way.

• STOP TALKING. START ACTING.
• Climate change is real. And so is the responsibility of every human being to help in reducing waste.

We no longer want to talk about sustainability, we want to act. For January, PREMIUM is partnering with Spanish fashion label and sustainable clothing pioneer ECOALF. The brand will present its lifelong mission and latest collection in a dedicated space as well as an art installation together with conceptual artist Juan Garaizabal.

"2019 is all about digital first and an active debate about social and environmental issues. Transparency and sustainability are key words. By reducing plastic waste on all our shows, teaming up with ECOALF and giving this wonderful brand dedicated space and time for spreading their message, we are taking steps into right direction. Every little action counts. We should talk about the things we do more instead of talking about what we are not doing. We all need to wake up. Now.” – Anita Tillmann, CEO PREMIUM Group

ECOALF creates high-quality garments using recycled materials collected from the bottom of our oceans. Commitment, sustainability and innovation are at the core of everything the company does, resulting in both conscious and stylish urban, adventure, knitwear and activewear pieces.   
 
“I love collaborating with people that also believe we have the opportunity to change the world for the better. It’s no longer about what you do, but how you do it. It is important to stand up for what you believe in, because fashion cannot just be about looking good.” – Javier Goyeneche, President and Founder of ECOALF. 

On Wednesday, January 16th, at 10am and 2pm, Goyeneche will present his brand’s values, philosophy and way of working on the experience floor of SHOW&ORDER X PREMIUM at Kühlhaus, right next to the STATION area. Show visitors, media and other exhibitors are invited to listen, learn and discuss.   
 
The art piece in partnership with Garaizabal unveiled at PREMIUM on January 15th is filled with waste to portray our everyday reality, and purposefully interactive so that visitors can throw their own trash inside the installation. The aim is to educate about correct waste disposal and show that every individual’s decision matters: Stop, Think, Act.

CHOMARAT, the specialist in composite & construction reinforcements and coated fabrics, has demonstrated the Group’s determination to pursue a sustainable process by earning environmental management (ISO 14001) and energy management (ISO 50001) certification for its French sites. “By obtaining both ISO 14001 and ISO 50001 certification, CHOMARAT now has a tested and standardized framework for developing an effective, sustainable environmental and energy management strategy,” says CHOMARAT Environment and Energy Manager Laurent VÉRITÉ.

Minimizing environmental impacts & optimizing energy use
ISO 50001 certification is validation of efficient energy management, with the bonus of lower energy consumption and the tools needed to address a warming climate. ISO 14001 certification is based on standards and requirements, and it constitutes an international benchmark for environmental management systems. “CHOMARAT is committed to a responsible and sustainable process for all of its activities in France. With ISO 14001 certification, the Group is incorporating environmental requirements into its management and production systems,” explains CHOMARAT France CEO Raphaël LAURENT.

Pursuing a long-term strategy
This twofold certification is in keeping with CHOMARAT’s long-term vision. “Our strategy is implemented through new investments and international development. But the Group is also actively involved in sustainable development and a sustainable innovation initiative,” explains Raphaël LAURENT. Measures that have been implemented include reducing the noise level, preventing pollution risks and improving waste management. Fluorescent lighting has been replaced by LEDs; new, more energy-efficient equipment has been installed; and the heating and air-conditioning ductwork has been insulated to reduce fuel-oil consumption.
“It is thanks to the combined efforts of all CHOMARAT’s teams that we were able to obtain these two certifications. For us, this is our first milestone towards a sustainable economy,” concludes Laurent VÉRITÉ.

• The world’s leading exhibition for additive manufacturing takes place in Frankfurt am Main every year
• With 26,919 visitors, Mesago, organiser of Formnext in Frankfurt, reported a new record with numbers up by 25% on the previous year.

This year Perlon was amongst the 632 exhibitors from 32 countries for the first time, which, represented by Pedex GmbH from Wald-Michelbach, was a co-exhibitor on a stand for companies from the German region Hesse (Hessen Trade and Invest GmbH - HTAI). Some visitors were surprised to discover that the world leading manufacturer of synthetic filaments is also active in the 3D printing filament field. That the Perlon Group, known innovation and market leader in many fields of application, with its decades of experience in the development and manufacture of filaments, has entered into the 3D printing market was well received.

The fact we actually entered the market 6 years ago, was only known to a few experts in the field. In this time, Pedex GmbH had been producing a wide range of performance filaments for a well-known German 3D printer manufacturer, who since then has distributed exclusively under its own brand. The decision, to out ourselves as producer and supplier was taken in summer 2018. This new direction has two main aims, firstly to establish ourselves in the market as a manufacturer of Perlon® 3D printing filaments, producing both small batches and high volume on an industrial scale for professional applications, but secondly and most specifically to continue along the path as a toll manufacturing partner with long-term contracts on an industrial scale.

As a partner with universities/institutions and member of various research networks, we are close to the quickly advancing developments in this field, which is why we were really pleased to welcome Dr. Andreas Baar and Dr (Ing) Thomas Neumeyer onto our stand. They are both members of RESOPT3D (Netzwerk für ressourcenoptimierten 3D-Druck), Germany’s strongest user network for 3D technologies.

Together with Conspir3D in Rheinheim and its owner Jan Giebels, who 10 years ago was a co-founder of the company German RepRap, we were able to forge a partnership to distribute Perlon® 3D printing filaments. With his support we could competently advise trade visitors about filaments and 3D printing as a collective proactive team.

Next year, Formnext will take place from 19th to 22nd November 2019 for the first time in exhibition halls 11 and 12 at the Exhibition Centre in Frankfurt am Main. This will be a debut exhibition for the USA which will be exhibiting as first partner country at Formnext. The USA has a long tradition in the field of additive manufacturing and is one of the most important international exhibiting nations.

• Three companies with complementary strengths team up
• BASF leads a Series A investment round with Materialise as one of the co-investors

BASF Venture Capital is leading the Series A investment round in Essentium, Inc., an innovative developer of disruptive, industrial additive manufacturing solutions headquartered in College Station, Texas. Materialise is one of the co-investors in the Series A investment round in Essentium, Inc. BASF and Essentium have been working together on advanced fused filament fabrication (FFF) solutions using Essentium’s proprietary FlashFuseTM technology for high mechanical strength in the build direction for extrusion printed parts. The two companies are now extending their strategic partnership to establish a consistent global materials supply chain supportive of Essentium’s new High Speed Extrusion (HSE) additive manufacturing platform. Essentium and BASF welcome Materialise to enter this strategic partnership to develop 3D printing software for the Essentium technology. This will allow users to take advantage of the speed of the HSE technology while having immediate access to the full Materialise software capabilities for professional 3D printing. The three companies combine their complementary strengths to jointly advance 3D printing technology and customer value to enable industrial additive manufacturing.

BASF is contributing comprehensive material know-how, a broad product portfolio, and its global network to the partnership. Materialise adds nearly three decades of expertise in the development of innovative 3D printing software solutions. Essentium is addressing additive manufacturing at scale by developing an industrial additive platform truly built for the production floor, providing its FlashFuseTM electric welding technology, and engineering-grade, multi-layer filaments for demanding applications. Together, the three partners intend to innovate solutions with advanced combination of hardware, software and materials to unleash the potential of Essentium’s unique high-speed-printer technology, coordinating their strengths to the best advantage.

“Our joint investment strengthens our co-operations with both Essentium and Materialise and accelerates the innovation potential of this powerful team to the benefit of BASF’s customers,” said Markus Solibieda, Managing Director of BASF Venture Capital.

“With this strategic investment, Essentium and BASF are focusing on improved supply chain performance, material consistency and accessibility. Essentium is also delighted to begin a new partnership with Materialise as the three companies focus efforts toward a new era for smart solutions in the global additive extrusion space. Together, we believe manufacturers everywhere will be able to accelerate production due to increased access to our new solutions, bolstered by a holistic, customer-centric approach,” comments Dr. Blake Teipel, CEO of Essentium, Inc.

“Materialise, Essentium and BASF share a vision for growth in the 3D printing industry that builds on the creation of meaningful applications in an open and vibrant ecosystem”, said Bart Van der Schueren, CTO of Materialise. “This partnership helps to promote a more open market model, which will fuel the adoption of 3D printing in the industrial field by offering users more control, more choice in materials and ultimately lower cost and higher volumes.”

BASF and Materialise are joined by a syndicate of private venture investors. Moving forward, BASF, Materialise, and Essentium will jointly drive the transition from 3D printing to scalable additive manufacturing.

• Unique, patented 3D printing process enables production of large-scale components
• First direct investment by BASF Venture Capital in a company in China

BASF Venture Capital GmbH is investing in Prismlab, a leading provider of 3D printing processes and 3D printers, headquartered in Shanghai, China. Prismlab has developed a patented printing process that is characterized by a very high printing speed, high level of precision and lower printing costs. BASF’s venture investment will enable Prismlab to further accelerate its product development and innovation while strengthening its market reach to the global market.

“This is our first direct investment in a Chinese company,” said Markus Solibieda, Managing Director of BASF Venture Capital GmbH. “The trailblazing technology from Prismlab allows large and stable components, such as medical braces and anatomical models, to be 3D printed for the first time. This investment supports BASF’s strategy of actively advancing our technologies and expanding our product offering in the 3D printing sector.”

“China is transforming from a manufacturing-driven to an innovation-driven economy. This investment in Prismlab reflects our commitment to further expanding our innovation capabilities in China, and BASF Venture Capital plays an important role in helping us identifying potential partners that lead us to success,” said Dr. Zheng Daqing, BASF’s Senior Vice President, Business and Market Development Greater China.

“The 3D printing technology must continue to evolve before it is set to change the world. At Prismlab, we aim to spearhead and accelerate that change by providing solutions through specialized customization. The investment allows us to stay laser-focused on our R&D capability, a key factor to achieve that goal,” said Mr. Hou Feng, Founder and Chairman of Prismlab.

Prismlab has developed a patented 3D printing process, “Pixel Resolution Enhanced Technology”, based on stereolithography (SLA). SLA allows comparatively large components to be produced using light-curing resins. Prismlab’s technology increases the printing resolution without compromising printing speed. In order to increase the amount of energy brought into a pixel, Prismlab’s technology divides each pixel in the resin into several small sections, which can be cured individually by exposure to LCD light. This makes the energy input into each pixel significantly higher than similar processes that expose each pixel to light once. This allows comparatively large and stable components or numerous parts to be printed in the same production step. With the use of LCD light, it also reduces process costs. This advantage opens opportunities in the footwear and furniture industry.

Along with this patented process, Prismlab also markets 3D printers and other related services. The Prismlab technology can be used in various key customer applications, including invisible braces, and anatomical models for medical, and education and training purposes.

SLA uses a laser for layer-by-layer curing of a photopolymer solution to shape the required workpiece. SLA and LCD based printing processes determinate the size, stability, and usability of the components to be produced as they are limited by the size of the light spot and the intensity of the light.

• HUB 1922, the fashion division of the RUDOLF GROUP, takes the stage at the Kingpins Show in Amsterdam and presents new technologies that make it possible to move away from environmentally questionable industrial practices.
• HUB 1922 also announces the opening of the new company building in an ancient textile factory near Milan.

Amsterdam/Geretsried/Milan. It was only six months ago that the RUDOLF GROUP, with its fashion Division named HUB 1922, began its journey through the fascinating world of garment finishing. Since then, the team has made significant progress and has moved from being a newcomer to the business to a solid and reliable reality. “HUB 1922 introduces the Rudolf Group to design thinking,” says Alberto De Conti, Head of Fashion Division at Rudolf Group. “And when you break perceived restrictions and paradigms within a strongly science-driven organization, only sky is the limit.”

For an entire semester, the organisation remained focused on one, single goal without getting distracted from it: to become the partner of choice for environmentally conscious advancements in garment processing that are rooted in real experience and science.

Emphasis was put on listening attentively to the market and on engineering solutions proactively, without being prompted.
When it comes to Denim, two separate yet correlated calls for action were heard:
1. the need for a serious departure from established industrial practices that are environmentally questionable
2. the opportunity to change the current rules and stir toward enhanced product quality.

Departure from the environmentally questionable

• HypNO: The next generation of bleach

Many attempts to technical alternatives to local and total denim bleaching have been launched in the market, over the past five years, by a number of competing players. Originality and innovation are at the base of HypNO technical uniqueness that can be injected into traditional denim processing, but that can also be used to create whole new processes and aesthetics.
Birth child of relentless dedication to science, HypNO is the latest alternative to the traditional denim bleaching agents currently under the spotlight because of their alleged safety issues. HypNO is the next generation of bleach.

- HypNO is based on the application of a whole new family of RUCORIT compounds, which are halogene-free and heavy metal-free
- HypNO can replace both potassium permanganate and sodium hypochlorite with one more eco-friendly solution
- HypNO is free from unpleasant smells; it is production friendly and suitable for both spray and bath applications
- HypNO does not require neutralisation with agents such as sodium metabisulphite or peroxides, hence reducing the need for chemicals significantly
- HypNO is GOTS approved. Bluesign and ZDHC Chemical Gateway certifications are intended
- HypNO further helps in the elimination of pumice stones
- HypNO is highly efficient and has been engineered to be cost competitive compared to other existing bleaching solutions

Toward enhanced product quality

• SoSoft, RawLong, DuraBlue

Durability over time still builds a brands’ reputation for quality. The notion of “durability” has changed over the years and has moved from sturdy workwear to the product's ability to retain its characteristics and structural properties.

“It goes against the whole denim philosophy, but, jeans are increasingly bought for what they look like at the time of purchase and are expected to evolve as little as possible. It is what it is; you can’t argue with consumers” says De Conti.

SoSoft, RawLong, DuraBlue, the three new technical concepts launched at Kingpins Amsterdam by the RUDOLF GROUP all sit under the umbrella wings of enhanced quality and specifically address long-lasting softness, preservation of original look and depth of blue.

• SoSoft

All appreciate the softness and suppleness of used/worn denim and the comfort benefit it delivers. It is a generic denim truth, and it is even stronger when it can extend over time. SoSsoft is about softeners carefully engineered for an enduring emotion, one that lives along favourite clothes.

Tried and tested to over 15 home washes, these marvels of chemical engineering allow consumers to toss domestic fabric softeners to the benefit of environmental sustainability.

• RawLong

Denim lovers want raw jeans to fade with time, soften and transform into what feels like an extension of their body. More often, people just want to prolong the look they chose. In both cases, home washing is a headache.

Years of testing have identified RawLong innovative, highly durable and natural solution that keep wearers fresh and at ease in their jeans allowing for long-wearing without washing. Moreover, less home washing means much less impact on the environment.

• DuraBlue

The role of designers is to come up with the bluest of blue jeans in a spectrum of fantastic new blue finishes and supporting textures. The role of DuraBlue is to ensure a continuously updated collection of technical solutions that keep that rich, deep, dark blueness of jeans for much longer while limiting the quality issues that come with denim rubbing. In other words, light underwear, snowy shoes, and white sofas no longer live in fear.

The launch of HUB 1922

• Busto Arsizio, Italy.

On a discreet street of Busto Arsizio, a village at the North of Milan is a red-brick building which in the 1800’s was the house of a textile mill. This 150-year-old structure is where the RUDOLF GROUP, the 100-year-old leader of textile, functional, responsible chemistry, is about to open its Fashion Division. Or, better, it’s HUB 1922.

HUB 1922 is committed to research and develop innovation within garment processing for the privately held mother company. HUB 1922, whose doors are expected to open during fourth quarter of 2018, will foster collaborative efforts with international fashion brands and retailers, will provide product innovation ideas at the crossroad of fashion and utilitarian functionality and will introduce elements of unorthodox diversity rooted in deep scientific knowledge, true environmental responsibility, technical innovation and creativity. “At a time when science plays such a powerful role in the life of society, it is incumbent on fashion to be dealing with scientific research. HUB 1922 facilitates that reunion” concludes De Conti.