From the Sector

On December 7th and 8th, Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) in partnership with Fashion for Good, facilitated the “Chemical Recycling Technologies: Manufacturing Markets Gateway”, in Bangladesh. Fashion for Good, the Amsterdam based global platform for innovation, along with two disruptive technology start-ups focused on textile-to-textile chemical recycling, Circ and Infinited Fiber Company, were the key stakeholders in this initiative.

The two-day visit leveraged Bangladesh's status as a major garment production hub, exploring the potential of chemical recycling technologies to enhance environmental sustainability. Emphasizing the importance of circularity, the event aimed to spread awareness about current disruptive innovations that could transform the industry's approach to waste and resource management, setting an example for future sustainable practices. It focuses on integrating these technologies within the local manufacturing landscape, securing feedstock partnerships, and developing a value chain for recycled apparel materials.

Denim Asia Limited, Knit Asia Limited, Progress Apparels Limited, Ananta BD, Reverse Resources, and the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) played pivotal roles in this initiative. Knit Asia Ltd, notably acclaimed for their commitment to sustainable practices, along with Denim Asia, associated with the sustainable brand Noize Jeans, showcased their commitment to sustainable manufacturing processes.
Progress Apparels Limited, a ready-made garment producer and part of PDS Limited demonstrated its advanced sustainable production facilities. Reverse Resources and the BGMEA hosted an intimate “Meet and Greet Networking Session”, to boost awareness about the technologies in the industry.

Mr. Mostafiz Uddin, Founder and CEO of Bangladesh Apparel Exchange, emphasized the significance of this event for the wider Bangladeshi textile industry, " Bangladesh has the biggest manufacturing sector in South Asia and this tour marks a critical step towards a circular fashion ecosystem, also how can the fashion industry become more sustainable in Bangladesh. It's not just an event; it's part of a larger movement to incorporate innovative recycling, Sustainable Fashion technologies and establish global partnerships for a sustainable fashion industry."

Featuring interactive sessions, factory visits, and knowledge sharing, this initiative offered a platform for fostering collaborations between manufacturers and technology innovators.

Bangladesh Apparel Exchange and Fashion for Good are optimistic about a future where Bangladesh leads in sustainable and circular apparel manufacturing.

ITMA ASIA + CITME, Asia’s leading trade fair for textile machinery, took place in Shanghai with a considerable presence of VDMA member companies. The round about 40 exhibiting VDMA members covered nearly all different machinery chapters with a focus on spinning and manmade fibers, nonwovens, weaving, braiding, knitting & hosiery, finishing & dyeing and textile processing. They were part of a strong German presence with a total of around 60 German exhibitors – including non-machine manufacturers.

During a press conference on the first day of the show, Dr. Janpeter Horn, chairman of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association and managing director of August Herzog Maschinenfabrik expressed: “After years of cancelled or postponed trade fairs and travel restrictions, this year’s ITMA ASIA + CITME is the first edition of the show that can be attended not just by Chinese but by visitors from various countries and regions. The event is a good opportunity to meet customers and partners again in person and not just on a screen. ITMA ASIA + CITME provides a good chance to deepen the already good relations with China and other Asian countries further and to set-up new partnerships.”

Dr. Horn continued to present latest facts and figures about the German textile machinery industry. Between January and August 2023, the overall exports of textile machinery and accessories summed up to 1.7 billion euros, which was a slight decrease compared to the same period in 2022. The shipping to almost all major markets decreased between January and August: China: 440 million € (2022: 453 million €), Turkey: 205 million € (2022: 265 million €), USA: 177 million € (2022: 144 million €), India: 170 million € (2022: 228 million €).

Numerous VDMA member companies have production sites in the major Asian markets China and India and serve their customers in these countries from there. A latest VDMA business climate survey among the textile machinery companies in China showed, that 75% of all participants assessed their current business situation as either good (6%) or satisfactory (69%). For the coming quarter, 50% of the companies see the market to decline. Asked about the business situation during the next six months, 44% of the companies expect the market to remain stable, 56% expect the situation to become worse. This is also reflected in the HR of the companies: 63% expect the number of employees to remain unchanged.

• Lenzing and Södra – a long-standing partnership for systemic change
• International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) honored the two companies in the "International Cooperation" category
• EU co-funded recycling project for textiles on an industrial scale

The Lenzing Group, the world’s leading supplier of specialty fibers for the textile and nonwovens industries, and the Swedish pulp producer Södra have received the ITMF Award 2023 in the category “International Cooperation” for their joint achievements in textile recycling and circular economy. The award was presented at the ITMF Annual Conference in Keqiao, China, on November 06, 2023.

The ITMF Award 2023 is given by the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) to recognize outstanding achievements and merits in the textile sector in two categories: ”Sustainability & Innovation“ and ”International Cooperation“. Since 2021, the two pioneers have been joining forces in textile recycling, making a decisive contribution to promoting the circular economy in the fashion industry. As part of the cooperation, the companies intend to share their knowledge with each other and jointly develop processes to enable the wider use of cellulose-based used textiles on a commercial scale.

The OnceMore® pulp from Södra, which was jointly developed further by Södra and Lenzing, is subsequently used, among other things, as a raw material for the production of Lenzing fibers with REFIBRA™ technology. The OnceMore® process makes it possible to process and recycle a blend of cotton and polyester.

ITMF paid particular tribute to the joint LIFE TREATS project (Textile Recycling in Europe AT Scale)¹,which was supported by an EU grant of EUR 10m under the LIFE 2022² program and aims to build a large-scale plant at Södra's Mörrum site in Sweden.

For more information on the ITMF Awards 2023, visit the ITMF website.

¹ Project 101113614 — LIFE22-ENV-SE-TREATS
² https://cinea.ec.europa.eu/programmes/life_en

Digital fashion outlet Otrium announces the launch of a dedicated garment refurbishment and repair programme for damaged returns following a successful pilot scheme. The initiative is being run in partnership with Bleckmann, experts in supply chain management for fashion and lifestyle brands. Working with Bleckmann’s team of circular fashion experts from The Renewal Workshop, Otrium is taking the next step in its strategic journey to help reduce the number of that might ultimately end up in landfills or destroyed.
 
Most of the returns that Otrium currently receives can be easily restored and put back on sale. However, in rare cases, returned items are damaged. “Preventing waste is an important part of Otrium’s DNA, and thanks to our partnership with Bleckmann and their Renewal Workshop team, we can now repair the majority of damaged returns and put them back into circulation,” said Kevin Carolan, Director of Logistics at Otrium. “We are happy that we can use our position in the fashion supply chain to create lasting change and accelerate towards our mission of reducing the volume of garments that go to landfill.”

Since 2020, Otrium is exploring refurbishment and repairs with their third-party logistics provider Bleckmann. In April 2023, both partners started a three-month pilot at Bleckmann’s facility in Almelo, the Netherlands, to expand the programme with a broader range of repairs and optimised processes through data use. During the pilot, the Renewal Workshop team at Bleckmann refurbished more than 1,000 returned garments, shoes and accessories for Otrium each month.

“With hundreds of high-end labels on the platform, we needed an efficient solution tailored to the needs of a wide range of products – from shoes and coats to bags,” explained Marlot Kiveron, Head of Sustainability at Otrium. “The Renewal Workshop team worked closely with us to develop a streamlined and scalable process that could grow in line with our ambitions, delivering like-new repairs at the speed of e-commerce. Their combination of purpose, professionalism, agility and expertise makes them the ideal partner for this kind of project.”
 
Bleckmann’s integrated data capabilities were also crucial to the success of the partnership. “Data collection and analysis can be vital in demonstrating the commercial viability of sustainability initiatives,” said Tamara Zwart, Director of Renewal at Bleckmann. “Using our advanced stock tracking systems, we determined that 70% of the renewed Otrium stock had been sold within seven weeks. We’re all delighted with the results!”
Furthermore, carbon-tracking software Vaayu calculated that on average, a refurbished return sold on Otrium avoids 2.760kg of carbon emissions and 69g of waste proofing that this programme can have a positive impact on both: the planet and the business.

Having established the business case, the team decided to expand the initiative beyond the pilot phase. “This project is a milestone in our sustainability journey,” concluded Marlot. “It’s a key part of our ongoing commitment to finding more ways to reduce our environmental impact while helping to ensure that more clothes get worn. By the end of 2023, we aim to repair at least 25,000 damaged garments. Together with Bleckmann and their renewal experts, we’re well on our way to proving that this circular business model can be a valuable part of our future growth.”

At a kick off meeting hosted by Mango, EURATEX and 20 incoming members presented ReHubs Europe, a new international non-profit organisation poised to give a boost to the textile recycling. The launch follows three years of intense preparation, and the publication of a Techno-Economic Study, which analysed the business case, cost and environmental benefits for upscaling textile waste recycling in Europe.

ReHubs Europe will gather key players from the textile value chain - textile manufacturers, fashion brands, collectors and recyclers, chemical industry, technology providers - who welcome the ReHubs joint ambition to recycle 2.5 million tons of textile waste by 2030. This requires up to 250 industrial projects across Europe, covering different types of fibre-to-fibre recycling.

ReHubs Europe is the industry’s response to the upcoming EU legislation, which sets compulsory collection and sorting of textile waste, by 2025. To manage this, an upscale of recycling capacity is needed as well as a collaboration of different players from the value chain.

Chris Deloof will lead ReHubs Europe as Executive Director. Chris has a long-standing experience in the textile sector and is a passionate advocate for cross-industry collaboration. Moreover, Chris is deeply committed to driving the transition towards a circular economy, which aligns seamlessly with ReHubs Europe's mission.

ReHubs Europe will operate from Brussels, in close partnership with EURATEX. Membership is open to any companies who wish to invest in textile waste recycling in Europe.

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited, a global sustainable chemical company, announced that it has recycled 100 billion post-consumer PET bottles since February 2011. This has diverted 2.1 million tons of waste from the environment and saved 2.9 million tons of carbon footprint from the product lifecycles. Demonstrating its commitment to support the establishment of a circular economy for PET, in the last ten years Indorama Ventures has spent more than $1 billion towards waste collection of used PET bottles.

The company has also committed a further $1.5 billion to expand its recycling business. To support increased recycling rates globally, Indorama Ventures has expanded its recycling facilities, infrastructure, and public education programs. The unique PET plastic used in soft drinks and water bottles is fully recyclable and is collected in practice and at scale. As a result, PET is the most recycled plastic in the world, and the company’s recycling achievements support that. Building on its position as the world’s largest producer of recycled resin used in plastic beverage bottles, Indorama Ventures is also seeking advanced technologies to deliver more recycling infrastructure globally and reduce lifecycle carbon emissions.

The company now has 20 recycling sites in Asia, the Americas, and Europe. Recent developments include doubling the capacity of a recycling site in Brazil; and the opening of PETValue, the largest bottle-to-bottle recycling facility in the Philippines, in partnership with Coca-Cola. Both part of a $300 million ‘Blue Loan’ Indorama Ventures received in 2020 from the International Finance Corporation (IFC), part of the World Bank, and Asian Development Bank. The loan has the objective of increasing recycling capacity and diverting plastic waste from landfills and oceans in Thailand, Indonesia, Philippines, India, and Brazil - countries seeking support in managing environmental waste. Indorama Ventures has also partnered with the Yunus Foundation, a leading non-profit organization promoting sustainable development with a global network, with the goal of educating one million consumers globally about recycling by 2030 with 200,000 reached so far.

The project "A Dress For Venice" get on the Red Carpet at the Venice Film Festival to advocate for sustainability. September 7th, actress Margot Sikabonyi will wear a dress from the collection designed by conscious designer Tiziano Guardini, illustrated by artist Jacopo Ascari, and produced by Martina Vidal Venezia, with the following materials:

• Bemberg™: The innovative and biodegradable fiber from the Japanese company Asahi Kasei.
• Burano lace: Produced by the historic Martina Vidal Venezia for four generations.

"Returning to Venice and experiencing the emotions of this place and the artists who have enriched it is exhilarating," says Tiziano Guardini. "It's a work based on volumes, shapes, three-dimensionality, colours and materials research… from Mariano Fortuny to the Ottoman Empire's Turcherie."

Illustrator Ascari adds, "I started with a careful study of the works of Canaletto, Guardi and Bellotto, masterpieces of Eighteenth-Century Vedutismo. I portrayed new perspectives on the city's splendour, enhanced by Guardini's vibrant shapes and color choices."

On Thursday, September 7th, at 12:30, in the Veneto Region's room at the Hotel Excelsior on Lido, Elena Donazzan, Councilor for Education, Training, Employment, and Equal Opportunities, will present the project alongside its creators Laura Scarpa and Lorenzo Cinotti of Venezia da Vivere, designer Tiziano Guardini, artist Jacopo Ascari, and actress Margot Sikabonyi.

"We conceived A Dress For Venice for Homo Faber in 2019, to celebrate Venice's 1600 years of craftsmanship," explains Laura Scarpa. "This year, the research extends to sustainable innovation thanks to an international team of designers, artisans and companies," continues Lorenzo Cinotti.

The project reaffirms Venice's role as an international laboratory to reflect on the planet's future. "A Dress For Venice" is a limited-edition collection realized with the support of a network of companies identified by the Tavolo Veneto della Moda (Confartigianato, CNA, Confindustria, Confesercenti and Confcommercio of Veneto), the global platform C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy), the partnership of Camera Buyer Italia and the media partnership of The Italian Rêve.

The presentation of the collection to buyers will take place at the Marina Guidi showroom in mid-September, while it will have its dedicated exhibition on Friday, October 20th, during the Venice Fashion Week.

"A Dress for Venice" is endorsed by the Comune di Venezia, the Regione del Veneto, and Homo Faber - Fondazione Cologni dei Mestieri d’Arte, which promotes worldwide high craftsmanship and savoir-faire.

Partners in the project Infinity srl and Tessitura Grisotto, renowned Italian textile manufacturers who expertly craft Bemberg™ fiber into exquisite fabrics. Creazioni Digitali, a specialized company in sublimation digital printing, carries out the prints on Bemberg™ textiles with its unique project GreenDrop; with inks that reduces the water consumption.

Other partners include Marina Iremonger, Camera Buyer Italia, and the Tavolo Veneto della Moda, representing Confartigianato, CNA, Confindustria, Confcommercio, and Confesercenti.

The international OEKO-TEX® Association, offering collaborative solutions for partners in the textile and leather industry, has once again recorded positive business development. Overall, OEKO-TEX® issued more than 43,000 certificates and labels between July 1, 2022, and June 30, 2023 - an increase of 21% compared to the previous financial year. The MADE IN GREEN product label recorded the strongest growth of 52%. OEKO-TEX® continues to drive urgently needed change through cooperation and joint action - with their services and at the organizational level.

For their two new certifications, OEKO-TEX® focused on cooperation with numerous parties along the global supply chain. Launched in November 2022, OEKO-TEX® RESPONSIBLE BUSINESS addresses the increasing global expectations and due diligence requirements. The tool and certification supports textile and leather companies in preventing negative effects from their own business operations, supply chains and broader business relationships. Companies working with OEKO-TEX® ORGANIC COTTON benefit from a global network of certified companies to facilitate sourcing of chemicals, materials and business partners - from cultivation to finished product.

At the organisational level, OEKO-TEX® is focusing on partnerships with multi-stakeholder initiatives to include as many different perspectives as possible and allow all parties to benefit. Working with ZDHC to promote sustainable chemical management and becoming an ISEAL community member are just two of many collaborations for OEKO-TEX®, which is striving to address the industry's most pressing challenges.

Meanwhile, the Association’s core business advances. For example, based on industry developments and scientific findings, OEKO-TEX® issued a general ban on the use of per- and polyfluorinated alkyl substances (PFAS/PFC) in textiles, leather and shoes certified by STANDARD 100, ORGANIC COTTON, LEATHER STANDARD and ECO PASSPORT. OEKO-TEX® also surpassed the milestone of 1,000 STeP certified production facilities. OEKO-TEX® is in a strong position to continue its work - enabling the industry and consumers to make more responsible decisions through partnership and education.

As a leading company in the collecting, sorting, reselling, and recycling of post-consumer textile waste, TEXAID has enabled the recycling of post-consumer textile waste into new textiles and clothing. Working together with brands and retailers, TEXAID and their partners are continuing to take action to shift from a linear to a circular system.

Today’s linear system of «take – make – waste» needs to change. New textiles are produced used and discarded instead of putting them to a second use. The production of new textiles requires natural resources that are limited, and the current system has a significant negative impact on our planet. The transition to a circular system, where garments are kept in use for longer, is an opportunity to harness untapped potential around customer loyalty, economic growth, and ecological sustainability. To move away from the linear system and enable products to be made out of post-consumer textile waste, TEXAID continues to expand its offering for in-store collection programs throughout Europe and the USA

Aligned with the launch of the PUMA Switzerland 23/24 Women’s World Cup home jersey, PUMA and TEXAID have partnered for the Swiss division of their RE:FIBRE Program. PUMA is working to have a more sustainable, long-term solution for recycling polyester jerseys. To achieve this goal, they have developed their RE:FIBRE Program, which transforms textile waste, along with other used materials, into new textiles.

To enable this textile to textile program in Switzerland, specific feedstocks are requires, which is TEXAID’s role as the operator of the collection and sorting. Newly launched in the PUMA Zurich location at Jelmoli, customers can bring garments of all brands and deposit them in-store. TEXAID collects and sorts all deposited items, sending eligible polyester garments into the PUMA RE:FIBRE program, to be recycled into new garments. All other garments are channeled by TEXAID to their next life cycle.

The ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei team knows that value creation is the foundation of contemporary business. Its team is ready to take ROICA™ to the next level, responding to market demand innovations, whilst sharing its latest responsible production system with a new generation of consumer.

For this reason, the ROICA™ strategy is based on two key elements:
First, a focus on responsible innovation, able to respond to new market needs and desires without harming the environment or society at large. Thanks to the certified and eco-high tech ROICA Eco-Smart™ family, Asahi Kasei is able to meet responsible business needs and contemporary consumers’ desire for a modern wardrobe that represents a new generation of values.

Second, the dawn of ROICA™ has fueled a consolidation of partnerships along the whole supply chain through conversations and collaborations with companies sharing ROICA™’s values, including: Artistic Milliners, CIFRA, Dresdner Spitzen, Iluna Group, Innova Fabrics, Maglificio Ripa, Penn Italia - Penn Textile Solutions GmbH, Sitip S.p.A. and Tessitura Colombo.