From the Sector

Growth, digitalisation and re-commerce – the forthcoming INNATEX (the international trade fair for sustainable textiles) is devoted to highly topical themes. From 20 to 22 January 2024 at the Messecenter Hofheim Rhein-Main near Frankfurt, over 200 exhibitors will be meeting up with retailers, experts and journalists. The motto for the winter trade fair is GROW, representing the call for sustainable, social and commercial growth that will not be possible without the green fashion movement.

Optimistic expectations despite the challenges
According to Alexander Hitzel, INNATEX Project Manager, and the organisers, MUVEO GmbH, various new trends are opening up that might, if exploited strategically, unlock new business areas. These range from ‘quiet luxury’, travel, internationalism and focused storytelling to services for specific target groups. On the Monday, members of the expert panel will be discussing re-commerce with the Hessen Retail Federation in the Community Lounge.

From storytelling to digital tools – the INNATEX themes
“Second-hand is in fashion,” says Julia Frings of IFH Köln. “Sales of used and recycled products have been on an upward trend for some years now and with the rising importance of sustainability, their relevance will continue to grow. There is great potential in this area for the trade to reach new target groups and expand the range on offer. To be successful, though, it is essential to have a concept tailored to the needs of consumers.”

Alongside Julia Frings of IFH Köln, other Federation panellists will include Steffen Riegel of Hessnatur. The first Lounge Talk at the start of INNATEX will deal with Strategies for Sensible Growth, borrowing from the motto for the fair. This topic will be followed by Fair Wages in the Global South, Storytelling as a Strategy, and Digital Trends.

Brand portfolio and partners of INNATEX
The collaboration with the Hessen Retail Federation, like that with Fashion Changers and Greenstyle Munich, has already proved its worth at previous fairs, as a way of adding variety to a well balanced fair programme. The new collaborative partners include AMD Academy of Fashion and Design (AMD) in Wiesbaden, the Fashion Campus 2030 Initiative and the Enterprise Europe Network (EEN, a network promoting internationalisation among smaller and medium-sized businesses).

The brand portfolio includes fashion for all generations, tastes and occasions. Labels exhibiting for the first time include businesses such as Fuza Wool from Denmark with its high quality traditional knitwear, and the hemp-based accessories of 8000Kicks from Portugal. The DESIGN DISCOVERIES comprise Anfisa Roumelidi, C/OVER and Consci.

The appetite for responsible sourcing shows no sign of slowing with Europe's fastest-growing platform, Source Fashion expanding again for its next edition with a 50% increase in exhibitors to over 320 from around the world.

The gateway to the UK fashion industry, Source Fashion takes place on 18th - 20th February at Kensington Olympia London putting international manufacturers and suppliers at the fingertips of UK brands.

Source Fashion offers a unique experience for decision-makers in buying, sourcing and procurement, with the reassurance of knowing that every exhibitor has been audited to ensure sustainability and transparency remains at the heart of their business model. The next show unites manufacturers from the UK, India, Portugal, Turkey Madagascar, China, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Peru, Philippines, Ethiopia and many more. The show will also see the debut of manufacturers from Mongolia, Lithuania, and Tunisia.

Suzanne Ellingham, Director of Sourcing of Source Fashion says; "Visitors will love the quality, diversity and variety of producers, makers and manufacturers from around the world with the best of the best in terms of high-quality knitted apparel, luxury wool knits, leather, denim, and more across our sectors including Fabrics, Accessories, Sportswear, Garment Manufacturers, Packaging, Yarns, Trims and Fixtures, plus Design & Technology."

Connecting global manufacturers and suppliers to buyers who want the security in knowing every conversation is one that could lead to a new range creation, Source Fashion is the gateway to retail for manufacturers and suppliers from across the world. From raw materials, fabrics, trims, and packaging, all the way through to contract manufacturers offering in house design services, the show brings the inspiration and tools together in one exciting destination to bring new ranges to life.

The July 2023 show welcomed some of retail's biggest names. Buyers, sourcing managers, product developers, technologists, and designers from brands and retailers including John Lewis, Mountain Warehouse, Fila, Selfridges, H&M, Lipsy, Lyle & Scott, Joules, FILA, Perry Ellis, JoJo Mamman Bebe, Monsoon, Fatface, Lulu Guinness, Next, Sainsburys, Vivienne Westwood, Stitch Fix, ASOS, Bella Freud, Burberry, Fat Face, Hackett, Harrods, NBrown, Monsoon and many more came to explore and source from Source Fashion's diverse mix of audited exhibitors.

With a content stage dedicated to presenting and discussing the latest trends, innovations, and topics in responsible and sustainable manufacturing from internationally renowned industry professionals, as well the inspirational Source Catwalk shows, Source Fashion is the must-attend event for the fashion community.

Source Fashion returns to London Olympia on 16-18th July, more than doubling in size and welcoming over 300 exhibitors from around the world.

Source Fashion offers a platform for decision-makers in buying, sourcing and procurement, with the reassurance of knowing that every exhibitor has been audited to ensure sustainability and transparency remains at the heart of their business model. The February launch show welcomed over 130 manufacturers from 20 countries including the UK, Peru, Cambodia, Pakistan, Turkey, China, India, Portugal, Hong Kong, Italy, and Greece, attracting nearly 5,000 visitors from leading retailers and brands including John Lewis, M&S, Sainsbury’s, Tesco, All Saints, Asos, Ted Baker, Bella Freud, FILA, Fred Perry, Matalan, Monsoon, Stitch Fix, Urban Outfitters, Very Group, and many more.

Suzanne Ellingham, Director of Sourcing of Source Fashion; “We couldn't have asked for a better first show. Leading retailers attended keen to source new, and crucially audited, producers and manufacturers. We champion responsibility, and sustainability isn’t just an addition to our show, it is our core value. We unite manufacturers practicing environmental, transparent, and fair-trade methods, with buyers looking to source sustainably.

“Our next show will be even bigger and better – we have already doubled the size of our floorplan for July and have been overwhelmed by the interest from both exhibitors and visitors. The global sustainability market is expected to grow by 24% annually in the next seven years according to Meta, which means now more than ever, brands are on the hunt for new sustainable manufacturers and suppliers to source from and the growth rate is staggering for Source Fashion. It is going to be firmly established as a significant platform for responsible sourcing by its second show.”

Kornit Digital announced that the London-based LOVE HERO fashion label uses Kornit’s sustainable, digitized, on-demand production capabilities to deliver its complete line of nature-themed apparel.

All fabrics are traceable and certified via their blockchain platform, Retraced, to minimize their eco footprint. Cut-and-sew operations take place in Portugal.

LOVE HERO is currently engaged with Kornit on the mechanics of imprinting silk, biodegradable nylon, and other diverse materials. One such application involves two-sided fabrics—nylon on top, with cotton on the reverse.

“Kornit is committed to becoming the operating system for sustainable fashion fulfillment, on demand,” says Chris Govier, KDEU Managing Director. “With visionary creators like Joshua and LOVE HERO ready to test the bounds of our design and color capabilities, and our growing network of digitized producers ready to make those visions tangible with speed, economy, and quality from all corners of the globe, we’re changing the public percetion of what digital can do—meeting the global sustainability imperative, without demanding compromise from any actor in that value chain.”

Kornit Digital announced Vizela, Portugal-based Calvi has implemented the Kornit Avalanche HD6 system for efficient, retail-quality digital decoration on demand.

Founded in 1977, Calvi is a textile manufacturing company that works with national and international partners to deliver sportswear and casual apparel for men, women, and children. Now occupying a 6,600-square-meter facility and employing a team of more than 120 qualified professionals, they are committed to the evolution of textiles with regard to three fundamental values: quality, availability, and efficiency. In addition to their own e-commerce operation, Calvi produces about 100,000 t-shirts per week for brands like Pull & Bear, Zara, and Bershka.

“When we first contacted Kornit, it was very easy to create the partnership we have now,” says Anselmo Pereira, Head of Design at Calvi. “Kornit Avalanche really helped us to move faster, to be more ecological—we basically don’t have minimum quantities to produce.

“This company started with my grandfather, and then my father started running the business by himself,” says Catarina Lopes, Founder and CEO of the brand’s eco-conscious NÜWA division. “I started NÜWA, which has two pillars: Everything is sustainable, and we are inspired by people. We are sustainable; we don’t have to create more water waste or use more resources. Our products are made from recycled cotton, recycled polyester, and organic cotton. We only use digital printing because it’s water inks; we don’t have to use chemicals in our products.”

• This Spring Summer Season 2018 Graciela Huam's second knit collection takes us to the Gray Beach…

Northern Europe is known for its short summer, the cool wind during the morning and evening and its unpredictable climate. Those countries are not warm even during the summer season.

Therefore, many people often travel to the south: Spain, Italy, Portugal or Asia longing for sun, sand and sea. And there is Lima, a coastal city with a good climate and a characteristic grey sky throughout the year, where the sun is hidden among the dense clouds, but despite this detail, its strong presence is still felt. If we move to Lima, we lie on the sand and cast our gaze to the sky as it teleports us to the cold northern European sky with the difference that our presence is on that warm gray beach.

Graciela Huam takes its heritage and inspiration from The Netherlands and Peru, those are the countries that influence and guide her work. The designer combines the vibrant Peruvian culture with the Dutch avant-garde design and her favorite colours are powered by the landscapes of both.

The products are designed in the Netherlands and created in the Andes of Peru, using only the most exclusive Peruvian materials such as the luxurious Alpaca and the famous Pima Cotton. All garments are made by passionate and skilled Peruvian craftspeople. This results in beautiful and high quality garments and a contemporary, prêt-à-porter style, creating versatile collections of knitwear.

Graciela Huam follows the principles of responsible and sustainable production, using traditional methods in order to achieve quality that is superior to industrially made products.

The brand is committed to partnering with local entrepreneur artisans and is working in association with a group certified with the principles of fair trade. Knitwear will always be a good investment and just like a work of art can create a truly iconic end result.

The choice of fabrics and production of Graciela Huam's knitted garments combined with this unique technique will reveal to you the high dedication and passion the designer feels for her work.