From the Sector

Latest developments in the sustainable textile industry will be introduced and discussed at the “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2025 – New with Biosynthetics” in Cologne, Germany and online, on 12-13 March 2025. Abstract submission is now open.

In 2024, 214 participants enjoyed two conference days in Cologne or online. The highlights were 40 presentations with lively panel discussions afterwards, the innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year”, an exhibition, the poster session and plenty of networking possibilities. All of this will be repeated in 2025, including new topics, new speakers and new inputs. The “Cellulose Fibres Conference 2025” will again cover the entire value chain, from lignocellulose, chemical pulp, cellulose fibres such as rayon, viscose, modal or lyocell and new developments to a wide range of applications, e.g. textiles from renewable fibres, nonwovens such as wet wipes and composites, hygiene and packaging. The conference will further address topics like circular economy, fibre-to-fibre recycling and sustainable carbon cycles, biosynthetics, new technologies and feedstocks.

Call for Abstracts
Enterprises and research institutes are invited to contribute to the program and present their innovative products, technologies or developments. Deadline for submission is 30 September 2024.
cellulose-fibres.eu/call-for-abstracts

Call for Innovations
The conference will conclude with the innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation 2025” whose winner can join the ranks of amazing innovations. The deadline for innovation submissions is 30 November 2024. The innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025” is sponsored by GIG Karasek.
cellulose-fibres.eu/award-application

Call for posters
The poster exhibition is highly anticipated event at the conference. Poster submissions are open until 31 January 2025.
cellulose-fibres.eu/call-for-posters

With the fully recyclable 100% polyester trunk side trim, Autoneum is putting the rear of the vehicle at the center of its efforts for a more circular economy in the automotive industry. The latest addition to Autoneum’s growing portfolio of sustainable monomaterial products made entirely from polyester is based on the existing Pure technology Propylat PET. The component demonstrates an excellent environmental performance in terms of recycled content, waste-free manufacturing and end-of-life recyclability.

New regulations such as the revised End-of-Life Vehicles Directive in Europe are accelerating the automotive industry’s transition from a linear to a circular economy. In this context, the recyclability of vehicles at the end of their service life is becoming increasingly important. This in turn raises the demand for automotive components that have an excellent environmental performance across the product life cycle and at the same time meet the highest standards of material quality and technical performance. Autoneum’s new 100% polyester trunk side trim helps customers achieve their ambitious sustainability targets while offering optimum durability, design flexibility and aesthetics.

As with Autoneum’s environmentally friendly monomaterial carpet systems, the new 100% polyester trunk side trim is fully recyclable. Production cut-offs can be reclaimed, processed and reused, ensuring a closed material loop. Thanks to Autoneum’s high-value recycling concept, the recycled fibers can also be granulated and spun into new fibers, which reduces the need for virgin raw materials and thus conserves natural resources. The carrier material is based on the lightweight Autoneum Pure technology Propylat PET and contains at least 50% recycled fibers. Like all variants of Propylat, the technology features a high proportion of recycled material and can be produced waste-free thanks to its complete vertical integration. In addition, Propylat PET consists of 100% PET and is therefore fully recyclable. The new monomaterial trunk side trim made exclusively from polyester is also available under the Autoneum Blue sustainability label. Blue products feature at least 30% recycled PET that was collected from coastal areas, thus making an important contribution to preventing plastic pollution in the oceans.

Autoneum’s sustainable concept for 100% polyester trunk components is not limited to side trim but can also be applied to tailgate and other trunk trim. Thanks to their unique material composition, the Propylatbased trunk trim parts are lightweight and sound-absorbing, thus contributing to the attenuation of tire and rear e-motor noise. In addition, their geometry can be tailored to individual customer needs while the textile surface improves the overall aesthetic of the parts and at the same time offers a high resistance to scratches. Autoneum’s eco-friendly 100% polyester trunk trim is available in Europe, North America and China.

Maintaining a focus on innovation despite the uncertainties that characterize the current international scenario was emphasized during the General Assembly of ACIMIT, the Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association, held in Milan on July 9. ACIMIT president, Marco Salvadè, showcased the data of the Italian textile machinery industry. In 2023, production decreased by 16%, settling at a value of 2.3 billion euros, as did exports, which also fell by 16% (2 billion euros).

China, Turkey, India, and the United States remain the main destinations for Italian textile machinery manufacturers. In 2023, demand for machinery in these markets was weak, but some positive signals emerged in the first quarter of the current year, especially from the Chinese market and again from Egypt, Pakistan, Brazil, and Japan. “2024 will still be a year characterized by many uncertainties,” commented Salvadè, “mainly due to the uncertainty of the geopolitical situation and fluctuations in final demand”.

In an especially difficult international scenario and with a still sluggish market, the Italian textile machinery sector remains a leader alongside a few other Countries, such as China, Germany, and Japan. “Our sector is renowned worldwide for its reliability, know-how, and the uniquely Italian ability to combine tradition and innovation,” noted the ACIMIT president. Accelerating innovation remains crucial, particularly to meet the challenges that await Italian manufacturers in supporting textile companies on their sustainable transition journey.

To highlight the opportunities that the European green transition opens up for technology suppliers, the public section of the ACIMIT General Assembly addressed a very current issue: textile recycling. The EU’s legislative guidelines aim to accelerate the green and circular transition of the textile sector with various actions: from ecodesign to EPR, from waste export regulation to green claims. Meanwhile, there is a growing demand for recycled textile fibers driven by the sustainable policies of brands that should not be underestimated.

Thus, technologies play an important role in providing solutions to companies engaged in the new circularity supply chain: from sorting and selection of garments to preparation phases and recycling processes. During the event several speakers agreed that the experience and capabilities of the Italian textile and textile machinery sector should be fully leveraged at this crucial stage for the entire supply chain. As President Salvadè noted, “Textile machinery companies intend to increase R&D activities in this area, collaborating with their textile customers in the belief that the circular transformation of business models also represents an opportunity for technology suppliers to increase their competitiveness.”

Circ^®, a US-based textile-to-textile recycling innovator, announced the launch of Circ^®-Ready, an exclusive community of global supply-chain partners who have demonstrated their ability to make high-quality, better-for-the-planet solutions for fashion brands using Circ materials. The inaugural Circ-Ready partners include AGI Denim, Foshan Chicley Textile Co., Ltd., Giotex, Marubeni Corporation, MAS Holdings, PYRATEX®, Selenis, SHINJINTEX, Soorty Denimkind, Tainan Spinning Co., Ltd., and Taiwan Textile Research Institute (TTRI).

The Circ-Ready community is a selected group of partners who have a proven positive track record and commitment to working with Circ recycled products and have been individually evaluated for industry success. Circ-Ready partners work alongside the Circ team of experts to adequately test and utilize Circ fibers, exceeding quality standards from end to end. To promote transparency and ensure the integrity of Circ products, each Circ-Ready partner provides a commitment to relevant best-in-class certifications for recycled products.

Consisting of processors, manufacturers, and other vital industry players across tiers 1-4, each Circ-Ready partner has undergone a testing process to replace virgin inputs with Circ’s products, proving the ability to utilize Circ products in their existing operations and produce premium materials as a result. Being a member of the Circ-Ready community provides partners the opportunity to work with pilot-stage Circ products, receive ongoing support from Circ’s technical experts, and be among the first recommended by Circ when brands and partners seek to utilize Circ material.

Circ is a leader in blended textile-to-textile recycling, a known challenge for the industry. Each year, tens of millions of tons of polycotton textile waste is landfilled or burned because existing recycling solutions cannot separate the plastic from the natural fiber and recover both materials. Circ’s innovative recycling technology is the only platform to successfully separate polycotton blended textile waste and recover both cellulosic and synthetic fibers. Circ’s primary fiber outputs are regenerated Circ Lyocell and Circ Polyester from textile waste.

The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) are coordinating the research project, which is funded as part of the European Union's Horizon Europe research and innovation program. The aim of BioFibreLoop is to develop recyclable outdoor and work clothing made from renewable bio-based materials. The kick-off event took place in Denkendorf on June 26 and 27, 2024.

The textile industry is facing two challenges: on the one hand, production must become more sustainable and environmentally friendly and, on the other, consumers are expecting more and more smart functions from clothing.

In addition, the production of functional textiles often involves the use of chemicals that are harmful to the environment and health and make subsequent recycling more difficult.

Intelligent innovations must therefore ensure that harmful chemicals are replaced, water is saved and more durable, recyclable bio-based materials are used, thereby reducing the usually considerable carbon footprint of textile products. Digitalized processes are intended to ensure greater efficiency and a closed cycle.

For example, the BioFibreLoop project uses laser technology to imitate natural structures in order to produce garments with water and oil-repellent, self-cleaning and antibacterial properties. At the end result of the research work will be affordable, resource and environmentally friendly, yet high-performance and durable fibers and textiles made from renewable sources such as lignin, cellulose and polylactic acid will be available. All processes are aimed at a circular economy with comprehensive recycling and virtually waste-free functionalization based on nature's example. In this way, greenhouse gas emissions could be reduced by 20 percent by 2035.

The technology for the functionalization and recycling of bio-based materials is being developed in three industrial demonstration projects in Austria, the Czech Republic and Germany. At the end of the project, a patented circular, sustainable and reliable process for the production of recyclable functional textiles will be established.

The BioFibreLoop project has a duration of 42 months and a total budget of almost 7 million euros, with 1.5 million going to the coordinator DITF.

The consortium consists of 13 partners from nine countries who contribute expertise and resources from science and industry:

• German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF), Coordinator, Germany
• Next Technology Tecnotessile Società nazionale di ricerca R. L., Italy
• Centre Technologique ALPhANOV, France
• G. Knopf’s Sohn GmbH & Co. KG, Germany
• FreyZein Urban Outdoor GmbH, Austria
• BEES - BE Engineers for Society, Italy
• BAT Graphics Vernitech, France
• Interuniversitair Micro-Electronica Centrum, Belgium
• Idener Research & Development Agrupacion de Interes Economico, Spain
• Teknologian tutkimuskeskus VTT Oy, Finland
• Det Nationale Forskningscenter for Arbejdsmiljø, Denmark
• Steinbeis Innovation gGmbH, Germany
• NIL Textile SRO, Czech Republic

CARBIOS and TOMRA Textiles, a tech venture set up by the sorting technology company TOMRA, announce the signing of an agreement to collaborate on establishing an efficient stream in Northern Europe from textile waste collection, sorting and preparation to recycling using CARBIOS’ enzymatic depolymerization technology at its first commercial plant currently under construction in Longlaville, France

The monomers obtained will be used to produce recycled polyester (r-PET) fiber, closing the loop for polyester textile circularity.

The innovations from both TOMRA Textiles and CARBIOS contribute to addressing critical gaps in the value chain and significantly increase textile-to-textile recycling from its current rate of 1%¹. By accelerating a circular economy for polyester, a sustainable alternative to incineration or landfill is made available.

TOMRA Textiles is on a mission to close the gap in textile circularity, by contributing to designing and scaling textile sorting plants. Under this partnership agreement, TOMRA Textiles will explore specific, tangible measures to enable the preparation of post-consumer polyester waste for biorecycling according to CARBIOS’ specifications.

CARBIOS' biorecycling technology involves breaking down polyester fibers into their basic components using enzymes, which are then used to produce high-quality recycled PET materials such as fibers for the textile industry. The breakthrough collaboration with TOMRA will redirect the challenging PET fraction of polyester textile waste towards biorecycling, showcasing a mutual dedication to pioneering recycling solutions for a circular economy.

¹ Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017

Beaulieu International Group is investing €5 million to transition the fossil based energy supply of its Cushion Vinyl production plant in Wielsbeke, Belgium, to bio mass generated steam supply. A transition to renewable energy. To this end, B.I.G. is collaborating with A&U Energie, a company that converts non-recyclable wood waste into green energy and heat. This strategic move aligns with B.I.G.'s commitment to reach ‘net zero’ for their operations by 2030.

The transition from fossil energy to green steam and the switch to waste gas treatment without direct fossil energy brings significant benefits. First, the switch in technology will lead to 88% reduction in their Belgian Cushion Vinyl carbon footprint related to heat supply and waste gas treatment, compared to the current emissions. Second, the use of steam heating and electric energy provides improved energy efficiency. In addition, the use of steam systems is known for its safety and reliability, providing a safer and more stable heating solution for the Belgian Cushion Vinyl facility. Moreover, the switch to steam and electric energy allows for the use of green electricity in the future, if available.

In addition to transitioning to 100% green energy, Beaulieu International Group is also dedicated to advancing the circular economy. These efforts encompass various initiatives, including increasing the use of recycled and reused materials. For example, 50% of B.I.G.'s PVC floor coverings are already fully recyclable. Additionally, they are actively working to reduce the environmental impact of their solutions by 42% at the end of their life cycle, striving to minimize product emissions to nearly zero, and eliminating pollutants. Recently at the Belgian Flanders Flooring Days, Beauflor launched its Twilight collection, a cushion vinyl floor created with PVC from 100% bio and circular sources resulting in a 40% reduced CO₂ footprint compared to their conventional heterogeneous CV flooring for residential applications

Furthermore, their cushion vinyl brand Beauflor launched the ReLive concept, a specialized program designed for a circular future, ensuring the collection, sorting, and recycling of PVC flooring cutting waste. Currently, this program focuses on post-installation waste and is exclusively available in France, with the goal of expanding its reach to other EU countries.

Through the establishment of strategic partnerships dedicated to finding innovative ways to repurpose waste materials previously slated for incineration, B.I.G. underscores its commitment to sustainable solutions and collaboration with like-minded organizations. 75% of B.I.G.'s post-industrial waste is now being successfully recycled.

KARL MAYER GROUP has developed a sophisticated system for considerable energy savings when operating the cylinder dryers in its PROSIZE® sizing machines and BLUEDYE dyeing plant.

Saving costs with inline energy recycling
The innovation is called CASCADE and focuses on steam as a heating medium in cylinder dryers. And for good reason: according to the IPCC report by ITMF Zurich, one tonne of steam cost between USD 20 and just under USD 27 internationally in 2021. The new solution relies on reuse to reduce the amount of process energy required.
"CASCADE recirculates parts of the process steam in cylinder dryers, enabling genuine, efficient energy recycling within the machine," explains Karl-Heinz Vaassen, Head of Textile Drying at KARL MAYER.
The customer benefits from significantly lower energy costs and CO2 emissions. With a view to the Asian market, a dryer with 14 cylinders and a running time of 7,000 working hours can achieve cost savings of up to USD 17,000 per year.

Precise, real savings values are available when looking at the machine dashboard. A sensor provides real-time data on the amount of steam circulating in the circuit, from which the corresponding reduction in CO2 equivalents can be calculated.

Utilizing the pressure drop
CASCADE reuses part of the invested process energy and uses the flash-steam in conjunction with the pressure ratios, which - nomen est omen - decrease in cascades in the different zones of the cylinder dryer.
The highest working pressure prevails in the first cylinder section. The heat transfer medium steam emits large amounts of energy for yarn drying and condenses without temperature loss.

The resulting hot condensate is not immediately discharged from the machine, but is instead fed into a flash tank, where vapor exhaust is formed as a result of the pressure reduction. In conventional systems, the carrier medium for gases is only created in the return line towards the boiler house and is eliminated as undesirable. Instead of being utilised in the process, it escapes into the environment. With the CASCADE system, this "freshly recycled steam" is used for the heat supply in the second cylinder section, but not without prior treatment.

In the system patented by KARL MAYER, the recycled steam is intelligently mixed with live steam and thus raised to the level of the required process conditions for use in the cylinder section at the end of the dryer. Here, the fabric moisture is reduced to the desired residual value at medium pressure and temperature conditions.

Market launch is underway
CASCADE was filed for patent by the KARL MAYER GROUP. It was published in September 2023.
The innovative solution at no extra charge was presented at ITM 2024 in Istanbul and was a visitor highlight at the KARL MAYER GROUP stand.

From January 2024, CASCADE will be part of the PROSIZE® as standard. The first sizing machine with the upgrade for greater energy efficiency will be delivered in the second quarter of this year. It will go to a manufacturer in Europe. In the next step, CASCADE will be integrated into other dryer types and will also be available for the BLUEDYE.

The Lenzing Group once again received the Austrian sustainability award for top listed companies, the Vienna Stock Exchange VÖNIX Sustainability Award. Lenzing takes the first place in the ‘Industrials’ category. The award honours those companies that stand out on the capital market with their sustainability performance. According to the VBV (Austrian Sustainability Index), which is the sustainability benchmark of the Austrian stock market, the Lenzing Group achieved the best score in its category.

Other environmental organisations and rating agencies have also already testified to Lenzing's efforts in the area of sustainability and the transformation to a circular economy: For the third year in a row, Lenzing received a place on the annual ‘A list’ in all categories of the global non-profit environmental organisation CDP. This makes Lenzing one of only ten companies worldwide to receive a triple ‘A’ - out of over 21,000 companies assessed. Lenzing was also once again awarded platinum status in the EcoVadis CSR rating. This puts Lenzing in the top one per cent of companies rated by EcoVadis. MSCI awarded Lenzing an ‘AA’ rating for the third time in a row, placing the company among the top eight per cent of rated companies in its peer group.

Manufacturer of activewear and swimwear, Active Apparel Group (AAG), has committed to a structured approach in reducing its environmental impact across its global operations through an Environmental Management System (EMS). The EMS, built using the ISO14001 Standard Framework, incorporates key environmental policy commitments and has set targets and strategies to reduce the carbon footprint of its operations across China, Australia and USA.

Through a third-party audit of its greenhouse gas emissions (GHGs), AAG has identified the following areas of focus to reduce impacts:

• Reduction in Scope 1 energy use
• Reduction in air freight
• Reduction in water usage across the business
• Ongoing collection and management of production waste
• Increased use of sustainable materials
• Continued collection of GHG data for ongoing improvement

AAG’s EMS is designed to be embedded within the operations of the business, with functional ownership of targets established and education of the team prioritized, to deliver results on reducing environmental impact. Quarterly reporting of its progress is communicated to stakeholders and reviewed by the company’s Board of Directors.

The EMS is part of AAG’s ongoing Responsible Business Strategy - a company-wide commitment to driving continuous improvement across the areas of Governance, Social and Environmental impact. Other initiatives include Living Wage Audit by Bureau Veritas (AAG pays 100% Living Wage); Materiality Assessment; Supply Chain Traceability Project; Circularity and Waste Management along with annual third-party audits - SMETA, Gold WRAP, Supplier Qualification Program and its Modern Slavery Statement.