From the Sector

Women play a decisive role in achieving social and economic improvements for entire communities, including those involved in cotton production. Nonetheless, female farmers continue to face systemic disadvantages. Cotton made in Africa (CmiA) is pursuing gender justice to redress this imbalance, and the results of a recent study reveal significant progress in this regard.

A recent study shows women taking leadership through Cotton made in Africa as lead farmers. In this position, they serve as role models; they offer other female farmers someone to turn to; and they establish co-operatives together with other women to increase both their autonomy and their financial independence by creating new sources of income.

A major factor in this success has been collaboration with African cotton companies in the cultivation regions. This involves regular verifications to assess whether the partners’ activities comply with the standard’s requirements. The verifications are structured around a large selection of indicators that address issues including whether gender-related training was completed or whether projects promoting gender justice were conducted. Over the past years, this approach has not only raised awareness of gender equality among village communities but also increasingly challenged or dissolved traditional norms among the partner companies’ management and staff, thereby resolving inequities and empowering women at the systemic level. The study revealed that respondents see Cotton made in Africa as playing a highly supportive role. Intensive communication through training, verifications, and discussions with other cotton companies has given partner companies a clear awareness of how important gender justice is. As a result, they have become significantly more active in this regard, thereby encouraging women to assume a stronger position in agriculture and the communities. This is reflected in the fact that over 80 percent of both male and female respondents in Mozambique disagreed with the statement that care work should only be done by women. At least 60 percent of female and male farmers surveyed apply the skills and knowledge acquired through the training, which expressly addresses gender-specific aspects. In addition, over 80 percent of surveyed women stated that they receive the same share of proceeds from cotton sales as the other members of their families.

CmiA’s gender study was based on the internationally recognised Women’s Empowerment in Agriculture Index, which aims to measure and improve the role of women in agriculture. In addition to the survey of over 500 farmers, 26 qualitative interviews and around 30 group discussions were conducted in cotton-growing areas of Mozambique (in south-eastern Africa) and Benin (in western Africa) in order to ensure a representative sample.

Cotton made in Africa shares the United Nations’ views on the significance of gender equality, as outlined in the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), especially SDG 5. In its own work as a sustainability standard, CmiA also follows international norms and frameworks, such as ILO conventions or Agenda 2030; at a higher level, CmiA promotes gender equality in the textile industry by participating in expert groups like the Partnership for Sustainable Textiles’ strategy committee for gender equality.

After a initial launch in 2022, global denim company Wrangler® launches the second installment of Wrangler Reborn™ – the latest collection to celebrate the upcycling of denim. The newest Wrangler Reborn™ sees the brand collaborate with BVH Services’ brand Beyond Retro, for the first time. BVH are one of the largest vintage retailers across Europe with a reputation for producing on-trend fashion without a hefty carbon footprint making them the perfect partner to give the collection a new dimension and even greater scale globally.

Purposefully crafted with circularity and sustainability in mind, the latest Wrangler Reborn™ Collection features a sustainable twist on some of its classic styles, including the Greensboro Straight Leg Jean, Reworked Short, Icon Jacket and Heritage Shirt that provide consumers with wardrobe staples they can wear for years to come while simultaneously diverting textile waste from landfills. To create the collection, Wrangler revived discarded denim and transformed it into apparel tough enough to stand the test of time that can be repurposed and re-loved, providing consumers the opportunity to buy better.

Wrangler’s commitment to durability and long-lasting quality products has helped to keep waste out of landfills since 1947. Wrangler Reborn™ enhances that commitment and is an additional step towards the brand’s WeCare Wrangler™ goals, crafted to create a better future through its commitment to sustainability.

In a position paper published, the companies organised in the VDMA Textile Machinery Association comment on the ambitious EU regulations and their national implementation for the sustainable and circular transformation of the textile and clothing industry.

The production of textiles requires a large number of resources, such as water, energy and chemicals. “The members of VDMA Textile Machinery support customers with products worldwide to utilise great potential already at the textile production stage to thereby reduce CO2 emissions“, explained Verena Thies, Deputy Chairwoman of VDMA Textile Machinery.

The position statement emphasises the importance of efficient processes, circular economy and binding rules for all market participants. Besides, the position paper summarises the status of textile-to-textile recycling processes as well as the framework conditions for reprocessing of recyclates. The companies of VDMA Textile Machinery develop processes and technologies for recycling and provide the technical prerequisites for the efficient reuse and recycling of textile raw materials, whether natural or man-made fibres.
The Executive Board of VDMA Textile Machinery stresses additionally, that the new EU regulations for circular economy and their national implementation must be designed with realistic targets, measurable effects and as little bureaucracy as possible. Furthermore, market surveillance is needed to ensure a level playing field for all market participants.

On behalf of the industry, the VDMA Textile Machinery Association calls for creating better location conditions in Germany and EU as a favourable environment for innovation und competitiveness for textile machinery manufacturing to significantly advance the sustainability of the textile industry: The Textile Machinery Association strongly emphasises the need for a wide range of low-cost green energy, which is essential for the implementation and sustainable use of recycling solutions in the manufacturing industry. The association also sees the positive shaping of location conditions (the potential for skilled labour, a reduction in bureaucracy, shorter approval periods, investment security and predictability as well as a reduction in the tax burden) as a decisive factor for supporting sustainable business in the highly competitive textile and clothing industry.

Autoneum significantly increased its revenue consolidated in Swiss francs by CHF 109.8 million to CHF 1 212.3 million compared to the prior-year period, supported by inorganic growth. In a slightly declining market, the Company succeeded in increasing its EBIT margin excluding special effects by 1.3 percentage points to 5.4%. A solid net result of CHF 36.1 million was generated in the first half-year of 2024. Due to the positive margin development, the Company now expects an EBIT margin of 5.0% to 5.5% for the current financial year (previously 4.5% to 5.5%).

In the first half of 2024, automotive industry production volumes were somewhat restrained world-wide and even declined slightly in Europe. While economic conditions in the automotive supply industry have improved to a certain extent since the coronavirus crisis, high vehicle prices in some markets were putting a damper on demand. Only North America and Asia recorded slight growth compared to the same period of the previous year.

Despite the flat market development, Autoneum managed to significantly increase both revenue and profitability before special effects over the prior-year period. This positive development was achieved through the automotive business of traditional German company Borgers, which had been acquired as of April 1, 2023, and thus contributed for the first time to the entire reporting period. At the same time, Autoneum achieved operational improvements worldwide.

Outlook
The current S&P market forecasts assume that global automobile production will decline by 2.0%* in 2024 compared with 2023. Based on the forecast market development and further operational improvements, Autoneum continues to expect total revenue in 2024 of CHF 2.3 billion to 2.5 billion and free cash flow in the high upper double-digit million range. Due to the positive margin develop-ment, the company now expects an EBIT margin of 5.0% to 5.5% (previously 4.5% to 5.5%).

* Source: S&P Global Light Vehicle Production Forecast of July 17, 2024.

Flos and B&B Italia, furniture brands of Made in Italy design, take part in the Casa Italia Paris 2024 project, the hospitality house that will host the athletes and guests during the XXXIII Olympic Games, to be held in the French capital from 26 July to 11 August 2024.

Along with other design brands and contemporary Italian artists, the two companies participate for the first time at Casa Italia Paris 2024 showcasing their most iconic creations, both classic and contemporary, in the venue’s indoor and outdoor spaces, taking guests on a spectacular and evocative journey that epitomizes Italian elegance and beauty.

As Official Partner of Casa Italia Paris 2024, B&B Italia is furnishing the living, lounge and outdoor areas with some of its most recognisable products that combine unique design, quality, comfort and function as well as sustainability, an increasingly crucial element intrinsic to furniture designed to last over time. The UP Series by Gaetano Pesce, the Camaleonda sofa and Le Bambole seating by Mario Bellini, the Planck tables by Piero Lissoni, and the Allure O’ table and Flair O’ chairs by Monica Armani will furnish Casa Italia, highlighting a dialogue with the context through the choice of distinctive shapes, colours and materials.

The ongoing dialogue created by the brand’s products continues through to the outdoor lounge areas, where Casa Italia’s green spaces are dotted with products from the B&B Italia Outdoor collection, the brand’s outdoor furniture line launched in 2007. The Ribes sofas by Antonio Citterio, the Crinoline chairs by Patricia Urquiola and the Borea tables by Piero Lissoni will welcome athletes and guests creating stylish aesthetic synergies with the Le Pré Catelan gardens.

Flos has worked at the lighting project for Casa Italia Paris 2024 as Official Supplier, with the aim of making light a precious element for highlighting the works of art and the objects that enrich the setup of the Italian hospitality house, so that the exhibition and its narrative itinerary can be enjoyed both during daytime and nighttime hours. Light is used to shape the space in such a way as to create visual hierarchies among the superb items on display, without forgetting the ambient lighting needed for the celebratory events that will take place in the venue. The Flos lighting display includes some of the brand’s most recognisable suspension creations, such as cocoon models Taraxacum and Viscontea by Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni and Zeppelin by Marcel Wanders. These interact with more recent and timeless collections, such as Glo-Ball by Jasper Morrison, Arrangements by Michael Anastassiades, IC and Captain Flint floor lamps, also by Anastassiades, and Bellhop Floor by Barber Osgerby.

For the exterior green spaces, Flos has chosen stylish outdoor floor lamps that create a harmonious dialogue with the surrounding architecture. These include Captain Flint Outdoor and IC Outdoor, designed by Michael Anastassiades, featuring bases in precious materials such as Tuscan imperial travertine and volcanic stone from the slopes of Mount Etna. Finally, Flos Architectural, the brand’s professional lighting division for large-scale projects, has equipped Casa Italia with innovative tech solutions that include The Tracking Magnet, an ingenious patented system with magnetic fastening LED lights in spot or linear versions for functional, efficient lighting that is also comfortable and non-invasive.

The German Pavilion is confirmed to return from 19 – 21 September at the Shanghai New International Expo Centre. For the first time since borders reopened, industry leaders gathering under the banner will bolster the fair’s innovation and sustainability with a comprehensive showcase, from raw materials to machinery, complemented by diversified fringe events across the fairground.

Located in a prime area of the International Hall, the German Pavilion is set to draw crowds with its reputable products and technology. Assembling under the pavilion this year will be some new and returning German exhibitors, having made their names in the sub-categories of automotive nonwovens, industrial-use monofilaments, weaving machinery, and many more. After confirming their participation, Hansa Industrie-Mixer, J.H. Ziegler Nonwovens and New Materials, Lindauer Dornier, Monosuisse, and Perlon will showcase their expertise together with other highlighted exhibitors, including:

• Autefa Solutions – A full-service provider for turnkey nonwoven lines and machines, the company offers machines for fibre opening and blending, carding, crosslapping, needle punching, spunlace, thermobonding, amongst others. At the fair, the company will showcase technology spanning 10 application areas.
• Emtec Electronic – The company develops specialised test devices for the nonwoven and textile industries. An innovation said to quantify handfeel, its TSA Tactile Sensation Analyzer objectively measures the softness, smoothness and stiffness of textiles and nonwovens, as well as their recovery and elongation.
• Neuenhauser Group – The Neuenhauser Textile division provides fully-automated cleaning systems, transport automation solutions, winding technology, high-performance can coilers and weaving machine accessories. With decades of experience, the Group will debut at the fair with various innovative Agrotech, Buildtech, and Geotech solutions.
• Reifenhauser Enka Tecnica – A specialised provider of spinnerets and precision components to the man-made fibre industry. The company manufactures a broad spectrum of spinnerets and spin packs for all spinning processes, as well as premium jet strips for hydro-entangling with extra-long service life.
• Reifenhauser Reicofil – A well-known provider of spunbond, meltblown and composite lines for nonwoven applications in the hygiene, medical, filtration and industrial sectors. Offering a wide range of machinery at the show, the company is developing technical solutions for sophisticated and sustainable applications, with a strong focus on machine intelligence and energy efficiency.

New fringe events to further advocate innovation and sustainability
At this year’s fair, AiDLab^[1] will present its AI-based Textile Inspection System (AiTIS). A world first, AiTIS automatically and accurately detects material defects in nonwovens (especially for mask making), and various textiles, reflecting the collaborative efforts of AiDLab and a Hong Kong healthcare brand. At the event, Professor Calvin Wong, CEO & Centre Director of AiDLab, will introduce the system. This will be followed by a panel discussion and Q&A session with independent consultant Mr Eric Sham and moderated by AiDLab’s Mr Barry Tai, including insights on how advanced technology is reshaping the textile industry landscape.

Going beyond innovation, the fringe programme will also for the first time include Econogy Talks^[2] and sustainability tours to reflect Messe Frankfurt’s commitment to a sustainable future. Fairgoers can also visit the Innovation Showcase Area for outstanding industry achievements, with the focus this year on cutting-edge technology, green development and high-end applications. Product submission is now open. Contact us to submit your products, or register here for your visitor badge.

The fair’s product categories cover 12 application areas, which span a full range of potential uses in modern technical textiles and nonwovens. These categories also cover the entire industry, from upstream technology and raw materials providers to finished fabrics, chemicals and other solutions. This scope of product groups and application areas ensures that the fair is an effective business platform for the entire industry.

Cinte Techtextil China will be held from 19 – 21 September 2024.

^[1] The Laboratory for Artificial Intelligence in Design, jointly established by The Hong Kong Polytechnic University and the UK’s Royal College of Art, under HKSAR government funding
^[2] ‘Texpertise Econogy’ – the umbrella for Messe Frankfurt’s sustainability activities at its more than 50 textile trade shows worldwide

RadiciGroup and Atalanta Bergamasca Calcio announce the renewal of their partnership for the 2024/25 season. RadiciGroup will be the "Sponsor del Cuore" (Heart Sponsor) for the Italian Serie A league and the Supercoppa Italia, which will take place in January 2025 in Riyadh, while it will be the "Sleeve Partner" in the UEFA Champions League and Coppa Italia matches.

RadiciGroup therefore remains the "Sponsor del Cuore" of the Atalanta team, renewing the partnership started in 2017. Over these years, during which the Nerazzurri have achieved success, RadiciGroup has always supported the management, coach, players, and staff of Atalanta. This relationship is based on shared values such as attention to the territory, passion for the black and blue colours, and the ability to showcase an incredible game that highlights each player's talent within a winning team. Atalanta concluded the 2023/24 season triumphantly, winning the Europa League and giving Bergamo fans a trophy.

Proparco has announced a €70 million senior loan to RE&UP Recycling Technologies, the circulartech textile recycling venture of SANKO Group. This investment will enhance RE&UP's capacity to scale Next-Gen recycled fiber production while reducing both carbon and water footprints driving RE&UP to set a new standard for circularity in the textile industry.

SANKO Group, with over 120 years of industry experience, remains a key partner for Proparco. The loan will support the construction of a new textile-to-textile recycling facility in Gaziantep, featuring 8.4MW rooftop solar panels for self-consumption.

With the MAX GLASS ECO, the KARL MAYER Technical Textiles Business Unit offers a production machine for the economical manufacture of standard reinforcement textiles made from glass fibers, in particular non-crimp fabrics for the wind power industry. The newcomer can be adapted to the requirements of different application areas thanks to various optional functions and combines short amortization times. At a maximum speed of 1,800 min-1, it produces up to 410 m/h at a working width of 101". This performance is very well received on the composite market. Since the launch of the MAX GLASS ECO at JEC World in March this year, several purchase agreements have already been signed.

Some machines are going to India, and a larger number has been ordered by Chinese customers. Even the demonstration models in the KARL MAYER GROUP customer centers in Changzhou and Chemnitz have already been sold. However, the MAX GLASS ECO at KARL MAYER Technische Textilien in Saxony can still be used for processing trials and performance tests until September.

There is also great interest in Eastern Europe. At Techtextil 2024 in Frankfurt, for example, the new composite machine was a topic of numerous meetings with Ralf Schramm, Sales Manager at KARL MAYER Technische Textilien for this region. "I held many orientation discussions about the machine's performance. But there were also customers with specific purchase requests, including the Polish manufacturer of high-quality, professional solutions for the composites industry, Rymatex," says the sales professional.

The German companies Brückner, Groz-Beckert, the Karl Mayer Group and Thies invite representatives of the Brazilian textile industry to a symposium with presentations and discussion panels in Blumenau, Brazil, on August 21, 2024. The event will be held at NS Armazém, Fortaleza, Blumenau and will focus on the current demand trend for warp knitted elastic fabrics.

The aim of the symposium is to provide a platform where knowledge can be exchanged and cooperation intensified. The symposium offers a wide variety of technical presentations as well as best practice examples and showcases cutting-edge technologies and innovations in warp knitting technology.

Interactive sessions and discussion rounds promote exchange among participants and provide networking opportunities. The event language is Portuguese.

Those interested in attending the symposium may contact the sales representatives: Frank Bernhard or Fabricio Rampani (Brückner, Thies & Karl Mayer), or Diomar Gomes Vieira (Groz-Beckert) to register.