From the Sector

Barmag, a subsidiary of the Swiss Oerlikon Group, will commission three HMLS yarn systems with a total of 30 stations at renowned technical yarn manufacturers in China over the next three months.

China expands HMLS capacities
Among them are two HMLS producers who had previously purchased from competitors. "They were convinced by our process technology, which guarantees the economic production of HMLS yarns of the very best quality," says Sales Director Oliver Lemke, who, together with his colleagues on site, provides support to customers in the field of technical yarns. The sophisticated material obtains its special properties during the spinning process. High speeds in the production process guarantee a stable arrangement of the molecules within the polymer that forms the actual thread. The internal structure of the molecular chain, in turn, is decisive for the dimensional stability of the final yarn.

Growing demand for HMLS yarns
The industry expects demand for HMLS yarns to increase in the coming years. This is mainly due to the trend toward lighter tires. Whereas high-modulus polyester yarn (HMLS) was previously used mainly in high-speed tires, its properties now also allow the tire carcass of small vans to be converted from steel cord to polyester. HMLS yarn is extremely tear-resistant, yet highly elastic and temperature- and dimensionally stable.

Another factor is the steadily increasing number of vehicle registrations worldwide. In China in particular, the production of local car brands has increased rapidly in recent years, which explains the expansion of capacity in the country.

Trevira CS, a leading brand of inherently flame-retardant textiles, is set to showcase its high-performance fabric solutions for the cruise ship industry at the CSI (Cruise Ship Interiors) Show in Hamburg on December 3rd and 4th. The booth's motto, "All aboard with Trevira CS," highlights the brand's commitment to safety and luxury in marine interiors. The exhibit will feature an array of some 27 IMO-tested Trevira CS fabrics specifically designed for cruise ship applications. 
 
Safety and Luxury Meet Rigorous Marine Standards 
As cruises worldwide continue to grow in popularity, the demand for luxurious and inviting textile designs which comply with uncompromising safety performance is increasing. Inherently flame retardant and easy to care for, Trevira CS fabrics comply with the strict FTP Code 2010 Resolution MSC.307(88), Annex 1, part 5, 7, 8, and 9 for various applications, such as wallcoverings, drapes and decorative fabrics, sunscreens, upholstery fabrics and bedding textiles.
 
The cruise shipping industry requires high-quality fabrics for both indoor and demanding outdoor environments. For exterior use, Trevira CS textiles offer superior performance in terms of resistance to light and weather. This is, for example, achieved through flame-retardant and UV stabilised polyester, available as staple fiber and filament yarn. Such modified filament yarns are available in nearly 30 different spun dyed colours. 
 
Recognizing the cruise industry's increasing focus on sustainability, Trevira CS also offers recycled options under the trademark Trevira CS eco. These fabrics contain at least 50% recycled materials (pre-consumer or post-consumer). All fibers and yarns used for the Trevira CS eco trademark are GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified. 

“Our trademark testing makes sure that the Trevira CS articles are made of our original Trevira® flame retardant polyester and that the textiles thereof meet the fire safety requirements of the brand and are fit to pass those of the cruise industry too. Needless to say, that also the requirements of other industries like hospitality, healthcare, rail and aviation are respected and can be met by Trevira CS® as well,” says Petra Krücken, Indorama Ventures Fibers Global Trademark Service Manager. 

The National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO), representing the full spectrum of U.S. textiles from fiber, yarn and fabrics to finished sewn products, applauded the administration’s announcement today of plans to reinstate duty-free treatment for qualified textile and apparel goods from Guatemala and El Salvador under the Dominican Republic-Central America-United States Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR).

National Council of Textile Organizations President and CEO Kim Glas:
“NCTO and our industry leaders have long been pushing for the reinstatement of duty-free treatment for qualified textile and apparel goods for our CAFTA-DR partner countries. We welcome the administration’s announcements about restoring these benefits for Guatemala and El Salvador and continue to press for a resolution for the other trade partners including Honduras, the Dominican Republic and Costa Rica, while acknowledging that the administration is conducting an extensive review under Section 301 of Nicaragua and their human rights violations under a separate track.

“We sincerely thank Rep. Richard Hudson (R-NC-09), Rep. David Rouzer (R-NC-07), and many members of the House Textile Caucus for their leadership and efforts in helping reinstate duty-free benefits for CAFTA-DR countries in support of the domestic textile chain.  Today was a first great step and we want to thank President Trump, U.S. Trade Representative Ambassador Jamieson Greer, and the administration for this important decision. 

“The CAFTA-DR region forms a vital co-production chain with the American textile supply chain, facilitating $11.3 billion in two-way trade in 2024 and supporting more than 470,000 U.S. workers in the domestic textile sector alone. However, since reciprocal tariffs were imposed on qualifying CAFTA-DR trade, U.S. textile and apparel imports from our free trade partner countries have declined 8 percent year to date in 2025 through July, while U.S. imports from top Asian suppliers have increased by double digits.

“The restoration of duty-free status for qualified goods from El Salvador and Guatemala is a critical key first step for our collective industries.  Restoring duty-free textile and apparel qualified goods from the CAFTA-DR region is important to bolster the U.S. textile supply chain can help bring some stability to this critical sector. The U.S. -Western Hemisphere supply chains stand as a bulwark to China and other Asian countries. We look forward to working with the Trump administration and lawmakers to find a resolution that will restore duty-free treatment for qualified trade for this vital region.”

In line with India’s growing momentum to establish itself as a global textile manufacturing powerhouse, Techtextil India 2025, the country’s foremost B2B exhibition on technical textiles, nonwovens and composites, is set to return with an expansive and future-ready edition. Scheduled from November 19 to 21, 2025, at the Bombay Exhibition Centre, Goregaon, Mumbai, the 10th edition will feature over 215 exhibitors, including more than 100 first-time participants.

According to the Ministry of Textiles, India’s technical textiles exports stood at USD 2.92 billion in FY 2024–25, underscoring the sector/s growing global footprint. Packtech at 37.5% and Indutech at 28% emerged as the leading export categories, reflecting strong demand across industrial and packaging applications. With exports to the UK valued at USD 136 million, accounting for a 4.7% share, the data highlights India’s strengthening position in global value chains – setting the stage for platforms like Techtextil India that drive innovation, business and exchange of scientific knowledge for this high-growth segment. The expo will house 500+ products and 300+ brands with international participation from Belgium, Germany, Hong Kong, Italy, Japan, Sweden and the USA.

The integration of advanced manufacturing technologies, sustainability practices, focus on circularity and innovative fibers has become a necessity. Techtextil India 2025 plays a crucial role in driving this evolution by bringing together stakeholders across the value chain, fostering dialogue on policy and technology and accelerating industry-wide transformation. This year, the show takes a significant leap forward with its multi-functional approach, integrating new features under one roof — the Dornbirn Global Fiber Conference Asia, which will be held on 18th November 2025, the launch of Sporttech Pavilion, the feature of German Pavilion and a Techtextil India conference powered by Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA). Together, these additions will enable participants to explore advanced applications of technical textiles across various sectors, including sports, automotive, defence, healthcare, construction, and sustainability.

India’s textile industry is undergoing a transformative shift driven by government reforms and industry-led innovation. Acknowledging the sector’s pivotal role in the national economy, the Ministry of Textiles has recently introduced significant amendments to the Production Linked Incentive (PLI) Scheme for Textiles, with a focus on revitalising the man-made fiber (MMF) and technical textiles segments. The revision aims to enhance ease of doing business, attract new investments and generate employment, while aligning with the government’s broader vision of ‘Make in India’ and ‘Atmanirbhar Bharat’.

These progressive measures underline the government’s commitment to fostering innovation, investment and employment generation within the sector — setting the stage for India to emerge as a global leader in high-performance textile manufacturing.

Commenting on the upcoming edition, Mr Raj Manek, Executive Director and Board Member, Messe Frankfurt Asia Holdings Ltd, stated: “The Indian textile industry is witnessing a remarkable transformation driven by government support, technological innovation and global demand for sustainable materials. Techtextil India 2025 will not only showcase the latest in technical textiles and nonwovens but also serve as a knowledge-driven hub connecting policy with practice. Our new initiatives – the Dornbirn Global Fiber Conference Asia, Sporttech Pavilion, German Pavilion and ITTA Technical Textiles Seminar – align perfectly with the nation’s textile growth mission, enabling participants to explore next-generation materials, solutions and business collaborations. We are proud to support India’s vision of becoming a global textile powerhouse.”

The Dornbirn Global Fiber Conference Asia, which is known for its focus on research-driven fiber innovation, will make its India debut, just a day before the expo on 18th November 2025, at Bombay Exhibition Centre, Mumbai, marking a perfect prelude for Techtextil India 2025. On 19th November 2025, the Techtextil Symposium will feature various knowledge sessions under themes like ‘Smart Solutions for Key Segments of Technical Textiles,’ organised by the Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA). Focusing on innovations and practical applications in geotextiles, agrotextiles and industrial textiles, this will provide a platform to interact with leading experts. On Day 3, the conference organised by the Society of Plastics Engineers (SPE) India will explore ‘Creating Tomorrow’s Circular Supply Chains: Technology, Collaboration & Capital for Tech Textiles and Plastics.’

The show will present credible developments in the fabrics for sports and activewear (Sporttech) category, leading to a dedicated Sporttech Pavilion organised in partnership with Concept N Strategies. A dedicated conference titled – ‘India’s activewear revolution scaling without compromise: Building a 360-degree ecosystem for premium, high-quality active wear that competes globally’ will spotlight high-performance fabrics and materials revolutionising sportswear and outdoor applications. The show will also house a conference on recycling, ‘Creating tomorrow’s circular supply chains: Technology, collaboration and capital for textiles and plastics.'

Besides these key features, the expo has seen an expansion into Mobiltech, Buildtech and Oekotech segments. Through these categories, the exhibition aims to connect manufacturers, technology providers, investors and policymakers under one unified platform to share insights, explore business opportunities and discuss the future of advanced textile materials. The event’s focus on innovation, sustainability and collaboration complements the national agenda of achieving self-reliance and global competitiveness in textiles.

The show will have the presence of key domestic industry leaders, including Aditya Birla Yarns, Khosla Profil, Park Nonwoven, Pidilite, Reliance, Welspun, Sanathan Textiles, Sarex Chemicals, and Suntech Geo. Meanwhile, the international exhibitors include ACM, Inc., Autefa Solution Germany GmbH, Bettarini & Serafini SRL, Brückner Textile Technologies GmbH & Co. KG, Georg Sahm GmbH & Co. KG, Innovatec Microfiber Technology GmbH & Co. KG, Procotex, Pulcra Chemicals GmbH, R&M International Sales Corporation, Reifenhäuser Enka Tecnica GmbH, Ring Maschinenbau GmbH, STC Spinnzwirn GmbH, Textechno Herbert Stein, VEIT Hong Kong Limited and Zoltek.

As high-value, sustainable and globally competitive textile production is receiving renewed focus, the synergy between government initiatives and industry platforms such as Techtextil India 2025 will continue to strengthen India’s leadership in the global textile landscape. The show has become synonymous with India’s textile ambition — weaving together innovation, collaboration and opportunity to create a more resilient, future-ready industry.

The expo has garnered support from key industry bodies, including the Manmade & Technical Textiles Export Promotion Council (MATEXIL), Indian Technical Textile Association (ITTA), Department of Textiles (Government of Maharashtra), while the Dornbirn Global Fiber Conference has garnered support from the Government of Tamil Nadu as the Partner State.

What if your clothes could sense, respond, and even help you move? That’s the vision behind the doctoral project on “textile nerves” – conductive fibres designed for electronic and ionotronic textiles. Claude Huniade, who is behind an innovative project, has woven together chemistry, mechanics, and sustainability to rethink how textiles and electronics can merge. 

The project had two main aims: first, to replace metals with alternative conductive materials like electronically conductive carbons, doped conducting polymers, and ionically conductive mediums; second, to lay the cornerstone for scalable production and realistic characterisation of textile nerves – especially for use in textile muscles. All of this was approached from a textile manufacturing standpoint, ensuring compatibility with weaving looms and knitting machines.

Improved properties to textile fibres
Among the most striking findings was the use of ionic liquids – liquids that are comprised entirely of ions – as electrical conductors in textiles. When applied to commercial fibres, they improved flexibility and stretchability, resulting in fabrics that were not just soft, but “conformal”, meaning they adapt closely to the body’s shape and movement.

“Our modern society has been shaped by textiles and electronics. When we think of the greatest example of an electronic device, a computer, it had at a point in time helped to bring the first men to the Moon in Apollo 11. Now, ionotronics – where electric currents are controlled by ions – open new doors for interfacing with biological systems like the human nervous system”, explained Claude Huniade.

Though these materials may not match metals in conductivity, their softness makes them ideal for wearable devices. The result? Electronics that feel more like clothing – and less like hardware.

“The potential uses are vast: bioelectrodes, sensors, heaters, lights, even textile-based batteries. But the most transformative application may be in rehabilitation – textile muscles could enable more accessible exoskeletons and prosthetics, giving people greater autonomy and mobility”, he said.

Sustainability at the core
This research aligns with the UN’s Sustainable Development Goal 12: Responsible Consumption and Production. By avoiding metals and embracing green chemistry principles, the project offers a more sustainable path forward for two of the world’s most waste-intensive industries combined – textiles and electronics.

What will be your next step after the dissertation?
“I will take a well-deserved break! I have a new project already in the works; all I will say is that it involves textile muscle fibres innervated by ionofibres.”

Link to dissertation

A new prototype of a knitting machine creates solid, knitted shapes, adding stitches in any direction – forward, backward and diagonal – so users can construct a wide variety of shapes and add stiffness to different parts of the object.

Unlike traditional knitting, which yields a 2D sheet of stitches, this proof-of-concept machine – developed by researchers at Cornell and Carnegie Mellon University – functions more like a 3D printer, building up solid shapes with horizontal layers of stitches.

“We establish that not only can it be done, but because of the way we attach the stitch, it will give us access to a lot of flexibility about how we control the material,” said François Guimbretière, professor of information science in the Cornell Ann S. Bowers College of Computing and information science and the multicollege Department of Design Tech. “The expressiveness is very similar to a 3D printer.” 

Guimbretière and co-author, Victor Guimbretière ’29, who is in Cornell Engineering, presented the work, “Using an Array of Needles to Create Solid Knitted Shapes,” at the ACM Symposium on User Interface Software and Technology in Busan, Korea on Sept. 30.

Guimbretière first became interested in solid knitting while tinkering with a knitting machine in the lab of co-author Scott Hudson, professor of human-computer interaction in the School of Computer Science at Carnegie Mellon University, in 2016. A few years later, Guimbretière built the prototype from scratch in his basement during the COVID-19 pandemic, using primarily 3D-printed components.

The machine has a bed of knitting needles arranged in a 6x6 block, with each composed of a 3D-printed symmetrical double hook attached to a brass support tube. The front and back parts of the double hook move independently, which allows the machine to knit or purl, depending on which half picks up the first loop. To control the machine, the researchers developed a library of code for each type of stitch, which can generate a program for each product.

Because the knitting head that dispenses the yarn can move directly over the array of needles to any location, the design offers excellent flexibility to create complex knitted structures. Previous solid knitting machines lacked this flexibility, which greatly limits the shapes they can produce, researchers said.

So far, the team has successfully knitted objects shaped like a C and a pyramid, which demonstrates the machine’s ability to create complex shapes and overhangs.

Currently, the prototype is still slow, prone to dropping loops and sometimes catches the yarn on the wrong needles, but Guimbretière has plans to make the machine more robust. Additionally, it should be easy to scale up the design, he said, simply by adding a larger bed of needles. 

With further improvements, this type of approach may be useful for medical applications, such as knitting structures that support the growth of artificial ligaments or veins, Guimbretière said. Solid knitting allows the user to create different levels of thickness and stiffness in the final product, so it may be useful for accurately mimicking biological structures.

Amritansh Kwatra ’19, now a Ph.D. student in the field of information science at Cornell Tech, also contributed to the study.
Partial funding for this work came from the National Science Foundation.

Coats Group plc, a world-leading Tier 2 supplier of critical components to the apparel and footwear industries, announced has completed its acquisition of OrthoLite, a global market leader in footwear materials and the number one brand in premium insoles.

The acquisition marks a major milestone in the company’s long-term growth plans and strengthens its existing footwear division through expansion into the attractive, high-growth premium insole segment. Both companies already have a similar customer base, a complementary global footprint and a commitment to industry-leading innovation and sustainability practices.

Coats first announced its intention to purchase OrthoLite, and its sustainable materials brand, Cirql, on July 16, 2025, for an initial enterprise value of $770 million. Following previous footwear acquisitions, this is the latest step in the Company’s ambition to shape the future of the global apparel and footwear supply chain through innovation, sustainability, and digital technologies that improve quality, efficiency and performance.

To better reflect its increased scale and expanded footwear capabilities, Coats will also move from a three-division organisational structure, previously Apparel, Footwear and Performance Materials, toward a simplified two division structure focused on Apparel and Footwear. Existing Performance Materials businesses will be folded into the two new divisions.

The divisions will be led by Pasquale Abruzzese, Footwear CEO and Group Chief Operating Officer, and Adrian Elliott, Apparel CEO and Group Chief Commercial Officer. Glenn Barrett will continue to lead the OrthoLite business. External reporting will transition to this structure for the financial year ending December 2026.