From the Sector

Gianluca Croci's priority will be to support Lectra's French customers in their transformation towards Industry 4.0
Lectra announces the appointment of Gianluca Croci as Managing Director, Lectra France. Based in Paris, Gianluca Croci reports to Fabio Canali, President, Southern Europe & North Africa.

Gianluca Croci has more than 20 years of experience in the fashion industry. He began his career in 1998 in the department store chain La Rinascente before joining the Giorgio Armani group in 2002, where he managed, from 2006 to 2015, the Belgian and French subsidiaries. Gianluca Croci later held management positions for major fashion and luxury brands, such as Roberto Cavalli and Marcolin, and was recently the Sales & Marketing Director for Technogym France, a designer of sports equipment.

Gianluca Croci will fulfil Lectra's promise to fashion companies in France: to facilitate the digitalization of their know-how in order to empower them to make a successful transition to Industry 4.0. This ambition is being realized by the 2018 launch of the revolutionary solution, Fashion On Demand by Lectra, which enables fashion companies to customize a garment or make it to measure. This end-to-end personalization offer—the first of its kind—complements a portfolio that is known to solve the pressing challenges confronting the fashion industry. The latest, Kubix Link, developed by Kubix Lab, a start-up acquired by Lectra in January 2018, is an innovative platform for managing product information.

"France is known worldwide for being a leader in fashion and technological innovation. It is a country where brands, retailers and manufacturers have already begun their transformation towards Industry 4.0. I am proud to support our customers’ pursuit of greater connectivity and collaboration in their operations, as well as in assisting them to make the shift to personalization," says Gianluca Croci.
Gianluca Croci and his teams are committed to providing their French customers with the high level of expertise and service that characterizes Lectra's value proposition.
Gianluca Croci's efforts are also tied to the dynamic activities of Lectra Southern Europe & North Africa. There are many synergies in the region’s fashion industry, ranging from the sharing of expertise between French and Italian companies to the integration into their ecosystem of the Moroccan and Tunisian subcontractors.

"Our regional organization enables us to be closer to our customers’ challenges and to provide them with the support they need to achieve their ongoing targets. Gianluca Croci will lead the French teams and contribute to the region's growth," says Fabio Canali. "His extensive experience with major Italian and French companies brings new energy to the development of Lectra France.”
Gianluca Croci is a graduate of the European Institute of Business Administration (INSEAD), Fontainebleau (France), and the Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Milan (Italy).

Since 1931, Bemberg™ is a new material definition for responsible luxury. The one for cool exquisite comfort, whose smart heritage is born in a circular economy.

Made by Asahi Kasei, the company is the sole maker of this one-of-a-kind, matchless, high-tech natural material, with a unique and precious touch and feel.

Starting from September 2018, Asahi Kasei has launched the Bemberg™ brand in Europe, with an openness and positive approach that facilitates a stronger, more focused role in the market while supporting our partner’s strengths too.

Enhancing core values through a more refined product and process in order to support our partner’s mission to materially benefit the whole supply chain with beautiful products and a straight communication. This is the key motivation behind the launch of the Bemberg™ global brand, taking the next steps on a journey that redefines the future of contemporary luxury with this unique fiber.

This is the reason why manufacture is playing a key role in the global role out of the latest Bemberg™ innovations. Pioneering partner mills for apparel textiles featured at the booth include: A-GIRLS, Alberto Bardazzi, DEBS, Ekoten, Euromaglia, Fiveol Textil, Infinity, Ipeker, Jackytex, Lanificio Europa, Matias & Araujo, Sidonios Knitwear, SMI Tessuti, T.B.M. Group, Tessitura Uboldi Luigi, Texteam and Tintex Textiles. Key lining developments are presented by Brunello, Gi Tessil Foderami, Gianni Crespi Foderami Manifattura Pezzetti and Tessitura Marco Pastorelli.

• Strategic collaboration in a prominent location on Orchard Road
• TENCEL™ Studio will host showroom featuring fashion from TENCEL™ fibers
• Cooperation underpins new branding strategy to reach out to consumers
• Chain of innovation and application centers in Asia completed

Lenzing/Singapore – The Lenzing Group, world market leader in specialty fibers from wood, will partner with the Textile and Fashion Federation Singapore (TaFF) to offer Singapore’s designers a hub to present themselves and make the TENCEL™ brand more accessible to consumers. The collaboration was announced last week at the opening ceremony of Design Orchard attended by Chan Chun Sing, Minister for Trade and Industry of Singapore.

“Lenzing is excited to work with TaFF on The Cocoon Space and its programs. Our cooperation with fashion designers is an important element in showcasing the sustainability promise of our flagship brand TENCEL™ to consumers. It comprises an integral part of Lenzing’s commitment to green-up the fashion industry”, says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group. “Singapore is a strategic hub for Lenzing in Asia, and we are proud to contribute towards taking Singapore’s fashion scene to greater heights.”

Do not miss the perfect opportunity to experience the new Naturally Advanced solutions by TINTEX Textiles. A great chance to touch and feel, that is also the best way to get to know something more on the wide range of fabrics that embody responsible innovation and creativity. Smart ingredients take the lead being enhanced by the unique TINTEX’s dyeing and finishing expertise. The seasonal collection that fuses science and innovation, leading the way towards a more conscious evolution is to be presented at Munich Fabric Start.

TINTEX, driven by its strong DNA toward responsible innovation, take the chance to be at Munich Fabric Start to introduce a brand new project who has born in Germany and is now flying at international level thanks to a group of pioneers key players who are implementing it. A unique initiative called THE BLUE LAB, created by the NGO Drip by Drip aimed at developing alternative textile solutions with the lowest possible water footprint, in collaboration with a network of participants. Among the key partners, Lenzing that provides the fibers, Tearfil supplying the yarn, TINTEX realizing the fabrics, Blue Ben creating the garments, Montebelo that works closely with brands, organizations and manufacturers to create responsible fashion products and with Agroho the non-profit organization that is working for marginalized communities in Bangladesh.

HOW TO TRANSFORM YOUR ORGANISATION
The #FASHIONTECH BERLIN conference is Europe’s leading C-level tech conference for the fashion industry. On the morning of 15 January 2019, Anita Tillmann, Managing Partner Premium Group, Michael Stracke, Chief Business Development Officer and Ole Tillmann, Founder & CEO Peak, welcomed the auditorium at Kraftwerk to the ninth edition of #FASHIONTECH BERLIN.
 
Stracke says, “We are extremely pleased with this year’s edition of #FASHIONTECH BERLIN. Our thanks must once again go to our high-calibre international speakers and partners without whom this continuous growth wouldn’t be possible. We are unique in Europe at this level, which is also apparent from the consistently positive feedback from participants during and after the conference. Among other things, we have increased the exhibition space by 300% and we have had even more interactive workshops and masterclasses going on for those attending, to ensure knowledge transfer. The slightly modified concept – #LISTEN!, #LEARN!, #EXPERIENCE! and #BUSINESS! – was very well received, as we want to do justice to the individual needs of all participants.”
 
“It was especially gratifying this year to experience the positive atmosphere on site and to ascertain that the topic of digital transformation has finally grown in importance for the fashion industry too, which was also evident in the renewed increase in and international character of the visitor numbers. Digitalisation is fun of course, and you can achieve much more in a short space of time than was possible previously; and respond to customers’ needs much more strongly and in a more targeted way.”
 
The goal of the conference is for everybody who faces digital disruption to walk away with inspiration and hands-on advice to be able to get started or continue their own digital transformation and get ready for the future. Learn from leaders and innovators from other industries to be among the first in the fashion industry to implement innovation.

• STOP TALKING. START ACTING.
• Climate change is real. And so is the responsibility of every human being to help in reducing waste.

We no longer want to talk about sustainability, we want to act. For January, PREMIUM is partnering with Spanish fashion label and sustainable clothing pioneer ECOALF. The brand will present its lifelong mission and latest collection in a dedicated space as well as an art installation together with conceptual artist Juan Garaizabal.

"2019 is all about digital first and an active debate about social and environmental issues. Transparency and sustainability are key words. By reducing plastic waste on all our shows, teaming up with ECOALF and giving this wonderful brand dedicated space and time for spreading their message, we are taking steps into right direction. Every little action counts. We should talk about the things we do more instead of talking about what we are not doing. We all need to wake up. Now.” – Anita Tillmann, CEO PREMIUM Group

ECOALF creates high-quality garments using recycled materials collected from the bottom of our oceans. Commitment, sustainability and innovation are at the core of everything the company does, resulting in both conscious and stylish urban, adventure, knitwear and activewear pieces.   
 
“I love collaborating with people that also believe we have the opportunity to change the world for the better. It’s no longer about what you do, but how you do it. It is important to stand up for what you believe in, because fashion cannot just be about looking good.” – Javier Goyeneche, President and Founder of ECOALF. 

On Wednesday, January 16th, at 10am and 2pm, Goyeneche will present his brand’s values, philosophy and way of working on the experience floor of SHOW&ORDER X PREMIUM at Kühlhaus, right next to the STATION area. Show visitors, media and other exhibitors are invited to listen, learn and discuss.   
 
The art piece in partnership with Garaizabal unveiled at PREMIUM on January 15th is filled with waste to portray our everyday reality, and purposefully interactive so that visitors can throw their own trash inside the installation. The aim is to educate about correct waste disposal and show that every individual’s decision matters: Stop, Think, Act.

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, today announced that Thailand-based Absolute Denim will be the first denim manufacturer to switch 100% of its production to aniline-free* indigo dyeing.

Absolute Denim is a Thailand-based denim manufacturer producing high quality denim with a focus on eco-friendlier materials and processes. The company can produce up to 2 million meters of denim per month (that's approximately 1.5 million pairs of jeans!), for customers that include some of the biggest brands and retailers in the world.

Archroma’s Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liquid dye was first launched in May 2018 as a non-toxic way to produce the traditional, iconic indigo blue that consumers associate with denim and jeans.

During production, some of the aniline stays locked into the indigo pigment and is difficult to wash off the fabric. The remainder of the aniline impurity, approximately 300 metric tons annually, is discharged during dyeing. This can be an issue as aniline is toxic to aquatic life. In addition, exposure levels to factory workers can be high. As a result of its toxicity (more hazardous than alkylphenols) it is now starting to feature on the restricted substance lists (RSL) of some major clothing brands and retailers.

The new Denisol® Pure Indigo 30 liq was therefore developed as an aniline-free* indigo solution for designers, manufacturers and brand owners who long for authentic indigo inspiration.

Archroma tested Denisol® Pure Indigo at Absolute Denim mill in Thailand. Archroma wanted to be sure that the new indigo dye would perform exactly the same as conventional indigo.

James Carnahan, Head of Sustainability at Archroma, comments: “At Archroma we continuously challenge the status quo in the deep belief that we can make our industry sustainable - but we cannot do it alone. Without forward-thinking manufacturers such as Absolute Denim to consciously adopt these eco-advanced innovations in their daily production, like our aniline-free* Denisol® Pure Indigo, we will not be able to move this industry forward on our resource-constrained world we live in. As consumers are increasingly aware of, and concerned about, climate change and ecological threats, this is not only the right thing to do - it is also good for business.”

“Deep down inside most of us want the world to be a better place for our loved ones and for future generations,” insists Vichai Phromvanich, Board Member, Absolute Denim, “starting with how we live, what we eat, what we wear, still trying to be cool, fashionable, still trying to be environmentally conscious. Archroma’s aniline free indigo project is therefore something we as a new generation manufacturer have supported from the beginning, by opening our doors for tests in the project phase, and now by sending out our articles to many of our customers. For us, after all, a nice pair of jeans looks even nicer without aniline!”

* Below limits of detection

• Twenty-five patent applications claiming product, process and application inventions published
• New technology platform starts with botanic wood pulp and creates a nonwoven fabric made of 100 percent continuous lyocell filament

Lenzing – The Lenzing Group filed a first wave of patent applications for its new LENZING™ Web Technology with the World Intellectual Property Organization. The 25 applications focus on product, process and application inventions and are part of Lenzing’s intellectual property protection strategy.

The LENZING™ Web Technology is a nonwoven web formation process that starts with botanic wood pulp and produces a nonwoven fabric made of 100 percent continuous lyocell filament. The technology offers a unique self-bonding mechanism where filaments bond into a fabric during the laydown process. This self-bonding mechanism allows for a much wider variety of basis weight, surface textures, drapeability and dimensional stability than other nonwoven technologies.

“Lenzing’s corporate strategy sCore TEN is very focused on driving growth via sustainability focused innovation. The new LENZING™ Web Technology is one of the most exciting Research & Development projects. The 25 patent applications related to this new technology underline our commitment to the nonwoven industry. We will continue to support our partners in their business and help consumers with sustainable innovative solutions for their everyday needs”, says Stefan Doboczky, Chief Executive Officer of the Lenzing Group.

• The world’s leading exhibition for additive manufacturing takes place in Frankfurt am Main every year
• With 26,919 visitors, Mesago, organiser of Formnext in Frankfurt, reported a new record with numbers up by 25% on the previous year.

This year Perlon was amongst the 632 exhibitors from 32 countries for the first time, which, represented by Pedex GmbH from Wald-Michelbach, was a co-exhibitor on a stand for companies from the German region Hesse (Hessen Trade and Invest GmbH - HTAI). Some visitors were surprised to discover that the world leading manufacturer of synthetic filaments is also active in the 3D printing filament field. That the Perlon Group, known innovation and market leader in many fields of application, with its decades of experience in the development and manufacture of filaments, has entered into the 3D printing market was well received.

The fact we actually entered the market 6 years ago, was only known to a few experts in the field. In this time, Pedex GmbH had been producing a wide range of performance filaments for a well-known German 3D printer manufacturer, who since then has distributed exclusively under its own brand. The decision, to out ourselves as producer and supplier was taken in summer 2018. This new direction has two main aims, firstly to establish ourselves in the market as a manufacturer of Perlon® 3D printing filaments, producing both small batches and high volume on an industrial scale for professional applications, but secondly and most specifically to continue along the path as a toll manufacturing partner with long-term contracts on an industrial scale.

As a partner with universities/institutions and member of various research networks, we are close to the quickly advancing developments in this field, which is why we were really pleased to welcome Dr. Andreas Baar and Dr (Ing) Thomas Neumeyer onto our stand. They are both members of RESOPT3D (Netzwerk für ressourcenoptimierten 3D-Druck), Germany’s strongest user network for 3D technologies.

Together with Conspir3D in Rheinheim and its owner Jan Giebels, who 10 years ago was a co-founder of the company German RepRap, we were able to forge a partnership to distribute Perlon® 3D printing filaments. With his support we could competently advise trade visitors about filaments and 3D printing as a collective proactive team.

Next year, Formnext will take place from 19th to 22nd November 2019 for the first time in exhibition halls 11 and 12 at the Exhibition Centre in Frankfurt am Main. This will be a debut exhibition for the USA which will be exhibiting as first partner country at Formnext. The USA has a long tradition in the field of additive manufacturing and is one of the most important international exhibiting nations.

• Performance Days - November 28 and 29, 2018 – Hall C1 Booth B18
• Two of TINTEX’s fabrics have made it into the PERFORMANCE FORUM Jury’s Pick Category that represents fabrics which are a valuable contribution to this season Performance Days Focus Topic “WATER – OUR RESPONSIBILITY”

See, touch and experience the latest collection from TINTEX as they reveal a wonderful range of innovative fabrics that redefine fashion, inspire creativity, spark emotion and optimize responsible solutions. TINTEX, being an ingenious leader in textile and research innovation for over twenty years, transforms a new generation of cotton and other natural based materials. Established in the Porto region as authorities in superior dyeing and finishing techniques making TINTEX Textiles the perfect choice for fashion.

All the recent awards bestowed, demonstrate TINTEX continue research and commitment. They have been awarded for the Best product of the Base Layer Category by ISPO jury, moreover they have just received the prestigious German Design Awards 2019 and last but not least, they are selected as finalists for the Future Textile Awards in the category Best Innovation for Sustainable Textiles.
TINTEX continues to lead the way, as they proudly take part in the Make Fashion Circular initiative, by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation and activate change industry wide. This initiative aims to collaborate and innovate towards a new textile economy based on the principles of a Circular Economy.

In addition, since this November, TINTEX is a bluesign® system partner, thus means that they are responsibly acting parties of the textile value chain committed to applying the bluesign® system, continuously improving their environmental performance and always been focused on a sustainable future.

A milestone for TINTEX and fashion, as they launch Naturally Clean - an exceptional smart finishing process that is uniquely responsible. Naturally Clean enhances the natural beauty of cotton, takes a cost effective modern approach to eliminate aggressive treatments and optimizes clean surfaces, vivid colors, providing an exquisitely smooth handfeel. Naturally Clean achieves this by using Novozymes technology, a company that is indeed the world leader in biological solutions. Second, using textile chemicals with the lowest possible environmental impact, without compromising performance, from Beyond Surface Technologies AG. Naturally Clean maintains the original characteristics for an extended period of time. All materials are Oeko-Tex and soon bluesign® certified, thus eliminating harmful substances.
TINTEX’ Autumn/Winter 2019/2020 collection includes vibrant tones, refreshing turquoise and electric green, light and warm copper with chocolate browns that connect the natural and spiritual in an extra-sensorial universe. Infused with a stunning palette of nostalgic and multicultural colors - warm yellow with darkened reds, dynamic purple with urban greys - that express globalization and human connection.
Key smart ingredients of the season are:

• A New Generation of Cotton: GOTS certified organic cotton, Supima® cotton, and ECOTEC® by Marchi & Fildi the smart cotton that saves up to 77.9% water consumption and introduces the concept of a circular economy.
• SeaCell™ and Smartcel™: produced using the Lyocell process in a closed loop with no chemicals released as waste. The patented process of SeaCell™ allows that the positive properties of the seaweed are permanently preserved within the fiber, even after multiple washing cycles. Smartcel™ includes the essential trace element zinc providing anti-inflammatory capabilities.
• REFIBRA™ by Lenzing technology involves upcycling a substantial proportion of cotton scraps e.g. from garment production, in addition to wood pulp, where the raw material is transformed to produce new TENCEL™ Lyocell fiber to make fabrics and garments.
• Bemberg™ by Asahi Kasei: A new generation GRS Certified material, made from cotton linters, with a biodegradability certification by Innovhub. A matchless, high tech natural material, with a special handfeel and aesthetics.
• ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei
  - ROICA™ EF has a percentage of pre-consumer recycled content that is more than 50%, and thanks to this it has been GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certified.
  - ROICA™ V550 a premium stretch innovative yarn boasting the Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Gold Level for Material Health product and ingredients as it was evaluated throughout the supply chain for lower impacts on human and environmental health. Striving toward eliminating all toxic and unidentified chemicals for a safe continuous cycle. Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certificate - ROICA™ proudly breaks down without releasing harmful substances.

Of special interest this season, the two TINTEX’s fabrics that made it into the PERFORMANCE FORUM Jury’s Pick Category for their contribution to this season Topic “WATER – OUR RESPONSIBILITY”.

A smart rib developed to reduce the water usage as most as possible, from cultivation of raw materials until fabric finishing. A blend of TENCEL™ Modal, cellulosic & biodegradable material treated with no hazardous chemicals, pesticides nor fertilizers, and European hemp, a fast-growing plant that requires very little water and no herbicides, pesticides, synthetic fertilizers or GMO seeds. Both fibres are biodegradable.

The second selected article is a 100% Merino Wool jersey made unique thanks to Colorau® by TINTEX, a patented natural dyeing process technique that uses vegetable herbs and extracts. A great amount of water was saved by avoiding subsequent washing steps. Also, lower water pollution is achieved by avoiding synthetic dyestuffs.