From the Sector

• At Kingpins Show Amsterdam (24-25 October) the new “Committed Accessories” dedicated to denim take centre stage.

For the appointment with the exhibition dedicated to denim Metalbottoni focuses on its new range of increasingly green accessories which have captured the attention of the northern European brands most attentive to sustainability in the world of jeans and elsewhere. A range of proposals which, in recent months, has progressed remarkably, following the rules established by the corporate responsibility protocol called NO IMPACT.

This is a responsible approach underlined by the promise “Committed Accessories”, but also a strategic choice with a view to approaching those markets which so far have appeared to be most keen on the subject, for example northern Europe, Benelux and the United States, California in particular. This means that Metalbottoni is acting with increasing assertiveness on those scenarios where it has been present for a long time, in order to increase the segments depth, intercepting new ones, thanks to its wide-ranging eco-compatible proposal.

NO IMPACT: “Committed Accessories” expanded

It is the constant search for sustainable innovation that reveals the extent of the progress made over the past few months by Metalbottoni. For the Kingpins Show exhibition, there are many novelties in store from the company, extending its range in terms of sustainability. Firstly, there is the new MONSTER line eco-processing, special for pure denim, which – apart from metal – includes new material solutions developed through high-profile collaborations.

Also the LEATHER ACCESSORIES line is extending its range of sustainable materials. The line of tags and rear waistband labels is enhanced through interpretations based on two new eco-friendly materials: recycled jacron and cork. For denim designed to be 100% green, also in accessories. Sustainable proposals are increasingly integrated throughout the Metalbottoni range, for example the new glossy and satin finishing developed for the line LABORA on exclusive metal accessories.

Partnerships with brands from northern Europe: Bik Bok and Kings of Indigo

One of the most important collaboration in sustainable fashion is the one with the Norwegian brand Bik Bok. The brand that was founded in 1973 dedicated to young women, today offer accessible trend driven fashion through a network of over 200 single-brand stores in Norway, Sweden, Finland and Austria. The brand has since 2017 chosen to use only BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) certified cotton for their in house premium denim brand Never Denim. For Never Denim Metalbottoni has realized a series of jeans buttons and personalized rivets, all entirely produced according to the NO IMPACT protocol; which means recycled raw materials, no use of chemical agents, through processing and machinery that minimize the use of water and electricity, resulting 100% from photovoltaic panels. All these features are part of a capsule developed for the new AW 2018 collection for Never Denim entirely made with Fair Trade certified cotton. Thanks to this project, the No Impact becomes an integral part of a collection that is aimed at a very large, young and aware public.

Another important brand which has chosen the new NO IMPACT metal accessories is Kings Of Indigo, the Dutch denim mill which is presenting top-quality jeans, inspired by traditional American style, combined with Japanese attention to detail, which today has as many 250 authorised dealers in 12 countries, with a very strong focus on northern Europe.

More and more sportswear for the new Monster SS 2020 collection

The great Metalbottoni classic dedicated to denim confirms the trend of strongly merging with the world of sportswear. The MONSTER line introduces the style developments of the SS 2020 season, with the range being more and more influenced by technical and sports interpretations, alongside sustainable production processes based on the NO IMPACT protocol. The new MONSTER proposals include items made of non-metal material, using sustainable processes, of natural origin and 100% biodegradable; these accessories are similar in appearance to traditional polyester, interpreted in a responsible way, developed through a series of special and unique effects. Also the button, rivet and small plate range has been restyled, having always been the core of the MONSTER line. Today the number of solutions available increases  hanks to new vintage finishing, developed on metal accessories, which are also totally green. “The denim world is moving in a clear direction: that of sustainability.” says Maria Teresa Ricciardo, Creative Director at Metalbottoni, “This is true in particular for some markets, which are strategic for us, and where we are proving increasingly successful, thanks to constant product and process research from a green  perspective, which Metalbottoni today is able to offer within the framework of the NO IMPACT pathway which we have been pursuing for a long time”.

• Textile Exchange’s Sustainability Conference - Milan, October 22-24, 2018
• The theme of the 2018 conference is United by Action: Accelerating Sustainability in Textiles and Fashion.

The conference offers an opportunity to connect with industry pioneers and learn about cutting edge solutions and innovations in textile and apparel sustainability. As a result, C.L.A.S.S., headquartered in Milan, the global resource for smart material innovation, education, marketing and communication, will be on hand to support this year’s theme.

Many of the materials the C.L.A.S.S. team will showcase speak to circular economy such as Re.VerSo™, Bemberg™ and ROICA™ by Asahi Kasei, Iluna Group and TINTEX Textiles and many others that use technological breakthroughs to offer fashion materials that provide significant reductions in water during the manufacturing process, an important step toward responsible future fashion systems.

During Textile Exchange’s Sustainability Conference, Giusy Bettoni, C.L.A.S.S. CEO and Founder and her team will have a dedicated space to engage attendees in an open discussion regarding the importance of fashion business strategies. The experience in the space, that will reflect an New York event created for C.L.A.S.S. by Ginger Design, will start with the vision of a film by Cristina Picchi that represents harmony between the various phases of the textile process and the cycles of natural elements. Visitors will walk through a three-dimensional installation designed by Cécile Feilchenfeldt to inspire creativity and explore the limitless possibilities using innovative smart materials.

“We are always proud to have a presence at international events including this year’s Textile Exchange’s Sustainability Conference. It is a great way for us to share our expertise regarding responsible innovation and new business model strategies. As C.L.A.S.S. is headquartered in Milan, we are proud that they selected our city for this year’s conference. Being held in Milan provides a chance for us to support Textile Exchange regarding smart material innovation, many of them produced in Italy.” said Bettoni.

Just off their return from Première Vision in Paris, Bettoni who is also the Sustainability Consultant for Smart Creation, recognizes the importance for her company to have a strong international presence to spread C.L.A.S.S.’ message to a global audience regarding responsible creation. 

As C.L.A.S.S. enters their second decade of business, they have expanded their business activities to include e-commerce that provides an opportunity for fashion start-up to purchase up to a maximum of 50, an initiative launched to support fashion start-ups. And a new division, C.L.A.S.S. Education, an initiative Bettoni co-founded with James Mendolia, also a Professor, Fashion Institute of Technology. Mendolia has been visiting universities to speak to fashion design, business, textiles and production students in Europe, Asia and North America to encourage attendees to infuse a new way of design thinking and move from a linear to a circular business model.   

• Huntsman Textile effects redefines dyeing of polyester including microfiber and blends with UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant
• Eco-friendly diffusion accelerant provides reproducible, high-speed polyester dyeing

Singapore – Huntsman Textile Effects introduces UNIVADINE® E3-3D next-generation diffusion accelerant to help mills achieve high-performance dyeing of polyester, microfibers and blends in an environment-friendly way that complies with current and anticipated industry sustainability standards.

The demand for polyester and man-made fibers is booming as sports and athleisure apparel markets expand rapidly around the world. At the same time, big-name brands that set trends in the sector continue to increase focus on sustainability and performance. As such, this is putting pressure on mills since the current industry standard involves chemically active diffusion accelerants that contain unwanted chemicals and require additional leveling agents and anti-foaming products that may be hazardous to people and the environment.

Developed by Huntsman Textile Effects specifically to meet these challenges, UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant is low-odor, free of benzyl benzoate and other hazardous substances. Part of Huntsman’s range of innovative dyEvolution™ dyeing auxiliaries, it uses Huntsman’s Active Diffusion Technology to enable high-speed dyeing with best-in-class leveling, retarding and migration properties.

“UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant delivers across three key dimensions – diffusion, leveling and migration – for exceptional performance and environmental and economic sustainability. Its environmental credentials offer mills greater processing flexibility and an optimum price-performance ratio,” said Kerim Oner, Global Marketing Manager for Dyeing Auxiliaries at Huntsman Textile Effects. “We expect this latest offering to change the way that the industry dyes polyester and blends while meeting stringent environmental standards.”

UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant has a high affinity to polyester, causing the fiber to swell and increasing the diffusion of the disperse dye, even at lower temperatures. Multiple leveling mechanisms then slow down the exhaustion rate to ensure safe, defect-free dyeing. Finally, as the dye bath heats up, the product’s strong support for disperse dye migration ensures the dye molecules are evenly absorbed.

As a result of this cutting-edge diffusion technology, UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant can be used to successfully dye polyester fibers in tightly wound or high-density yarn/beam dyeing and is suitable for jet applications without the need for anti-foaming products. Reducing exposure to high heat, its Active Diffusion Technology minimizes the potential to damage the elastane in polyester-elastane blends and provides for on-tone dyeing of microfibers. The superior migration support of UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant also increases reproducibility, allowing mills to dispense with additional leveling agents. Polyester, microfibers and blends treated with UNIVADINE® E3-3D diffusion accelerant comply with the requirements of bluesign®, in addition to being suitable for Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® and an approved input dyeing auxiliary chemical for GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certified textile products*.

• Mitarbeiter entsprechend informieren

In den Medien, bei den Endverbrauchern und zum Teil sogar bei den eigenen Mitarbeitern kursieren weit überhöhte Vorstellungen darüber, wie viel der Modefachhandel am Verkauf eines Kleidungsstücks verdient. Dies liegt nicht zuletzt daran, dass in den Medien immer wieder über problematische Produktionsbedingungen in Asien berichtet wird, wonach die Herstellung von Hemden oder T-Shirts nur wenige Cent kostet. Motto: „Wenn die Einkaufspreise so niedrig sind, muss der Gewinn des Handels ja gigantisch sein.“

Dazu mag sicher auch beitragen, dass zum Saisonende mit hohen Rabatten gearbeitet wird. So entsteht bei vielen Kunden und den Medien der Eindruck, der Modehandel würde mit der üblichen Kalkulation horrende Renditen erzielen.

Tatsächlich verbleibt zumindest dem mittelständischen Modefachhandel in der Regel nach Abzug aller Kosten nur ein vergleichsweise bescheidener Gewinn. Basierend auf den Ergebnissen des BTE-Jahresbetriebsvergleichs von 2016 hat der BTE am Beispiel eines T-Shirts verdeutlicht, dass einem Verkaufspreis von 29 Euro im Durchschnitt anteilige Kosten eines Händlers in Höhe von 27,98 Euro gegenüberstehen.

Allein 12,23 Euro fallen als Einkaufspreis für das Shirt an, weitere 4,64 Euro müssen als Mehrwertsteuer an das Finanzamt abgeführt werden. Zu diesen warenbezogenen Kosten in Höhe von insgesamt 16,87 Euro kommen noch anteilige Personalkosten (6,06 Euro), Miete inkl. Nebenkosten (2,32 Euro), Kosten für Werbung (0,78 Euro), für Zinsen und Abschreibungen (0,64 Euro) und sonstige Kosten (1,31 Euro) hinzu. Dem Modefachhandel bleibt damit beim Verkauf eines Bekleidungsstücks zum Preis von 29 Euro im Durchschnitt lediglich ein Gewinn in Höhe von 1,02 Euro. Hiervon sind dann z.B. noch Ertragssteuern an das Finanzamt zu entrichten.

Wichtig: Diese Kenntnis über die Ertragssituation im mittelständischen Modefachhandel fehlt auch bei (zu) vielen (Verkaufs-)Mitarbeitern. Dadurch kann bei diesen schnell der Eindruck entstehen, sie arbeiteten für vergleichsweise wenig Geld, während sich Inhaber bzw. Geschäftsführung üppige Gewinne auszahlen. Für die Motivation ist diese Fehleinschätzung sicherlich nicht förderlich.

Der BTE empfiehlt deshalb, die Mitarbeiter mindestens einmal jährlich über die tatsächliche betriebswirtschaftliche Situation im eigenen Geschäft oder zumindest in der Branche aufzuklären. Vor allem die Kostensituation dürften viele vollkommen falsch einschätzen. Wer seine eigenen Zahlen nicht preisgeben möchte, kann dazu z.B. die Daten des BTE-Betriebsvergleichs verwenden.

Hinweis: Die der Grafik zugrunde liegenden Ergebnisse des BTE-Jahresbetriebsvergleichs für das Jahr 2016 sind – neben anderen statistischen und fachlichen Brancheninformationen – im BTE-Taschenbuch 2018 veröffentlicht. Dies ist zum Preis 22 Euro plus MwSt. und Versandkosten zu beziehen beim ITE-Verlag, Postfach 101865, 50458 Köln, Fax 0221/92150910, E-Mail: itebestellungen@bte.de oder im BTE-Webshop unter www.shop.bte.de.

Auf Veranlassung des BTE hat die Zentrale zur Bekämpfung unlauteren Wettbewerbs am Landgericht München mit Erfolg einen Prozess gegen Amazon wegen der Verwendung des Begriffs „Daunenjacke“ für eine zu 100 Prozent aus Kunstfasern (Polyester) gefüllte Jacke geführt. Auch der Zusatz „Primaloft“ war nicht geeignet, eine Irreführung der Verbraucher auszuschließen.

Für die Richter wurde damit in der Werbung eine zur Täuschung geeignete Angabe über wesentliche Merkmale der Ware gemacht, so dass ein Verstoß gegen § 5 UWG vorlag. Das Landgericht München hat Amazon daher wegen Irreführung der Verbraucher zur Unterlassung verurteilt (Az  17 HK O 2290/17).

Wolford is recognized for high quality Skin wear and is a favorite among fashion influencers. Wolford realizes that when it comes to luxury, consumers expect brands to be responsible. In response, Wolford understands sustainable luxury is a new brand ingredient and are dedicated to expanding their collections each season and infusing responsible materials.

This July at Interfiliere, gain a sneak peek into the launch of Wolford’s Aurora collection of leggings and pullovers that are Cradle to Cradle gold certified, first one in the world! The new styles created use premium stretch yarn belonging to the ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, the world’s first yarn awarded Cradle2Cradle Material Health Gold Level Certificate and Hohenstein Environment compatibility certification, which provides evidence of compliance and offers confidence as a responsible choice. In addition to premium stretch yarn from ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, the Aurora pieces are made using two other responsible fibers, Lenzing Modal® a cellulosic fiber derived from sustainable forestry, and infinito® by Lauffenmühle, a specially modified oil based biodegradable polymer.’

Instead of using new materials, Wolford’s new collection is developed to return the ingredients back to the cycle, they simply borrow them for the lifetime of the product, which supports responsible product ingredient sourcing. At the end of the Aurora collection product lifecycle, Wolford will return them to an industrial composting station to naturally breakdown without releasing harmful environmental substances. Wolford is committed to becoming part of the solution and activating change as they continue to explore responsible material innovations.

Be sure to attend Première Vision NY Smart Talk on July 17th, 2018 at 2:00p to meet to Wolford’s own Andreas Roehrich, Director, Product Develoment & Innovation to discuss technology and Wolford’s quest to become a responsible luxury brand.
 

Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals, recently entered in a partnership with Carlin, the world’s very first trend forecasting agency founded in 1947, aiming to promote the use of Archroma’s exclusive color inspiration tools to fashion designers and stylists in France.

Under the terms of the new partnership, Carlin will use the ‘Color Atlas by Archroma®’ color references in the Carlin’s 16 publications per year, including the InMouv trend books. Carlin will also use the Color Atlas during its color workshops, and Carlin and Archroma will organize regular conferences and events for fashion brands in major French cities, including Paris.
The partnership agreement also appoints Carlin as Archroma’s sales agent for its color management products in France, including the Color Atlas by Archroma® color library and related tools. Archroma’s color management services will continue to be sold through the existing channels.

The Color Atlas by Archroma® uses complementary tools to enhance creative possibilities for designers and brands. It incorporates the six-volume ‘Color Atlas’ Library, with over 4,300 colors on cotton poplin; the two-volume ‘Color Atlas Compact’ for improved portability; and the ‘Color Atlas Online’ which enables you to take an image with your smartphone and identify the closest Color Atlas shades.
“Just like designers, brands, retailers, manufacturers and Carlin, we are passionate about color trends,” explains Chris Hipps, Global Director of Archroma Color Management Services. “We redefined the concept of a color library for the textile industry with our Color Atlas, an essential and inspirational reference that gives creatives options that they had never dreamed of. With our new partnership with Carlin we’ll be able to share our Color Atlas and our passion for color with a new audience.”

“Carlin is at the forefront of trend forecasting,” explains Edouard Keller, Head of International Sales, Carlin. “And that includes the use of color. Archroma offers a suite of services and tools that are both practical and instantly available for our clients; this is what makes their solution so attractive to us. Our partnership with Archroma will empower us to share the advanced Color Atlas and associated tools with creatives throughout France, helping them to unlock their creativity with color.”

OutDoor2018: Schoeller’s coldblack® technology has been specifically optimized for use on knitted and woven fabrics so brands can now expand their product application uses. Under the blazing sun, textiles with coldblack® heat up less and stay cool to the touch. Südwolle Group, a leading manufacturer of high quality yarns, has also recognized the ideal combination of merino and coldblack®. With this, the wear comfort of wool apparel can be tangibly improved.

Wool is well known for its various property benefits, including insulation, natural antibacterial protection, odor control, light weight and nearly wrinkle free composition. Not only in the winter time, but also in summer particularly merino wool, a special high-quality type of wool, regulates moisture balance and thus the body temperature. The fibers can absorb a great deal of moisture or sweat and transport it away from the body. Warm ambient air quickly dries the material and causes a cooling evaporation, which makes it very comfortable to wear merino apparel in the summer time.

coldblack® technology from Schoeller supports the natural properties of wool because it reliably reduces heat build-up when exposed to the sun. Together with the help of Südwolle Group, the finish has been optimized specifically for the use in merino apparel. The yarn manufacturer chooses coldblack® for a variety of uses, especially for knitting and weaving yarns for sports and outdoor apparel and develops such products individually according to its customers’ requirements.

Stéphane Thouvay, Managing Director Product Management & Innovation at Südwolle Group, summarizes the use of the technology as follows: “coldblack® is part of our product range for the summer time, which we will be presenting at OutDoor show in Friedrichshafen. The technology reduces not only heat build-up, but also enhances the natural UV protection of wool without affecting the look and feel of the fabric. Therefore coldblack® perfectly fits into our yarn selection for sports and outdoor apparel, for example in our collection ʻYarn in Motion’. For end consumers garments made of coldblack® yarns can optionally be labeled with hangtags.”

When used in high-quality woolen fabrics, coldblack® has already proven its performance and is being used by renowned brands in various collections of men’s suits. Since 2008, the technology has been licensed by more than 200 brands, in sports particularly in the field of cycling, triathlon and golf. All components of the finish are bluesign® approved.

This July at Interfilière, discover responsible innovation and well-being at the ROICA™ booth.

ROICA™ partners create innovative fabrics for the Modern Wardrobe. See, feel, imagine and learn why brands are choosing ROICA™, view the collection of superior functional fabrics that revolutionize the premium stretch market, thanks to advanced yarn solutions dedicated to specific needs of the contemporary consumer.

Spearheading the stretch market, ROICA™ elevates new standards for intelligent contemporary consumers. ROICA™ representatives will excite you as they demonstrate functionality, their advanced color technology system, and show you a fantastic range of stretch innovations from smart shapewear to soft compression that can enhance designs. Come visit the ROICA™ booth to learn about the ongoing commitment to responsible innovation and creativity. As you enter, you will experience 3 Modern Wardrobe concept zones that showcase:

1. ROICA™ Lifestyle – a beautiful selection of commercial lingerie, swimwear and nightwear items from leading brands that include ROICA™, embracing the ROICA™ Eco Smart family of yarns.

2. ROICA™ Innovation – an exciting area that shares our textile partners’ innovations to inspire endless possibilities. This area will showcase lingerie concept garments for brands that will spark ideas for AW 19/20.

3. ROICA™ Lab – the zone that navigates you toward the latest hi-tech Modern Wardrobe solutions. This zone hosts unmatched premium stretch performance designed to exceed contemporary business and consumer desires belonging to ROICA™ Eco-Smart family and ROICA™ Feel Good family .

ROICA™ Eco-Smart family, the world's first range of responsibly made premium stretch fibers creating ROICA™ smart yarns that offer sustainable solutions with prestigious certifications:

• Global Recycling Standard (GRS) Version 3.0 certified by Textile Exchange - ROICA™ Version 3.0 yarn constructed with more than 50% pre-consumer recycled content.
• Cradle to Cradle Certified™ Gold for product and ingredients - ROICA™ yarn evaluated throughout the supply chain for lower impacts on human and environmental health. Striving toward eliminating all toxic and unidentified chemicals for a safe continuous cycle. Hohenstein Environment Compatibility Certificate - ROICA™ proudly breaks down without releasing harmful substances.

ROICA™ partners featuring ROICA™ Eco-Smart family include:
Giemme, Iluna Group S.p.A, Maglificio Ripa S.p.A, M.I.T.I. Spa, Penn Textile Solutions, Sofileta, Tessitura Colombo Antonio Tintex Textiles

ROICA™ Feel Good family, a brilliant range of advanced stretch fibers that deliver personal performance and measurable wellness. Thus, providing freshness and comfort metrics perfect for travel, sport, leisure and more. The family now offers a premium innovation:

• ROICA™ CF, an innovative yarn that neutralizes odors thanks to an active ingredient interlocked within the yarn. This durable stretch yarn offers a fantastic property to every wearer.

ROICA™ partners featuring ROICA™ CF include: Maglificio Ripa S.p.A., TINTEX Textiles.

ROICA™ also presents the following families through our textile partners’ innovations within the ROICA™ Innovation area:

• ROICA™ Color Perfect family - advanced color technology system that delivers a perfect color match finish with an undetectable matte look for the stretch materials.
• ROICA™ Contour family - high performance stretch yarn control that delivers a calibrated form optimizing power, softness and comfort.
• ROICA™ Resistance family - innovations linked to durability and functions to match particular applications including heat and chemical resistance in make and wear.

Am 14. Juni 2018 startet die Fußball-WM in Russland. Durch die zum Teil frühen Anstoßzeiten werden sich etliche Modehäuser für eine Übertragung der Spiele im Geschäft für Kunden und Mitarbeiter entscheiden. Zudem haben bei den letzten Turnieren speziell Geschäfte mit männlicher Kundschaft Spiele mit deutscher Beteiligung mitunter für Kunden-Events genutzt.

Wichtig in diesem Zusammenhang ist die rechtliche Absicherung der Übertragung im Geschäft. Gemeinsam mit der Bundesvereinigung der Musikveranstalter konnte der HDE mit der GEMA einen Sondertarif für die Wiedergabe von Fernsehsendungen anlässlich der Fußball-Weltmeisterschaft 2018 vereinbaren. Dieser Sondertarif in Höhe von 85,25 Euro brutto (bis 200 qm) bzw. 170,49 Euro (201 bis 400 qm) kann angewandt werden, wenn in Betrieben bzw. Räumen mit entsprechender Größe Großbildfernseher/Leinwände über 106 cm bzw. über 42 Zoll Bilddiagonale aufgestellt werden.

In einigen Fällen kann allerdings der reguläre Fernsehtarif (für zwei Monate) günstiger sein als der GEMA-Sondertarif. Dies gilt insbesondere, wenn kleinere TV-Geräte bis 106 cm Bilddiagonale (= 42 Zoll) aufgestellt werden. Weitere Details enthält das HDE-Merkblatt „Fakten und Konditionen zur TV-Übertragung der Fußball-Weltmeisterschaft 2018“, das über die regionalen Einzelhandelsverbände angefordert oder unter www.einzelhandel.de (Log-in erforderlich) heruntergeladen werden kann.