From the Sector

• Lectra – ESCP Europe ‘Fashion & Technology’ Chair round-table event hears panelists emphasize the need for fashion companies to embrace Industry 4.0.

Paris, February 27, 2018 – Lectra, the technological partner for companies using fabrics and leather, the French business school ESCP Europe and their joint ‘Fashion & Technology’ Chair explored the impact of Industry 4.0 on fashion’s value chain during a recent insightful round table discussion at ESCP Europe’s London campus.
For the participants Robert Diamond, Founder and CEO, Fernbrook Partners; Dan Hartley, Global Head of Digital Commerce, AllSaints; Laëtitia Hugé, Vice-President, Product Marketing, Lectra; Pierre Mercier, Senior Partner and Managing Director, Boston Consulting Group; and Evelthon Vassilou, CEO, Alison Hayes, there was consensus. Industry 4.0 represents unparalleled opportunities to take the fashion industry forward.

From brand to manufacturer, panelists from across the value chain emphasized the necessity for the industry to embrace the alliance between man and machines to leverage massive benefits, from quicker decision-making to cost-reduction.
Exploring the advantages of Industry 4.0 technology, Evelthon Vassilou commented: “Interpreting the data of what is, and isn’t, selling should help to speed up decisions. You can react very quickly across the entire supply chain, and either stop producing something unsuccessful or ramp up production if successful. Data and data analytics is not sufficient, to succeed this also requires a high degree of trust and integration between retailers and suppliers.”

“It’s about using technology to deliver continuous improvement in everyday business,” said Robert Diamond. “People are not good at making a large volume of repeatable decisions with many different data inputs”. Identifying where machines, and where people, bring value is an important part of embracing Industry 4.0. “If the business decision, or the outcome of the resolution tomorrow, is pretty much the same as what happened yesterday, then there is a chance for machine learning to help improve the situation.”
For Pierre Mercier, technology propelled by Industry 4.0 is disrupting former sources of competitive advantage, “forcing companies to rethink how they want to compete in their respective industries, and how to use data to compete differently. The common denominator in the fashion ecosystem is that everyone is facing the opportunity for a step change and need to figure out where to double down and accelerate their transformation.”

“Agility and flexibility are increasingly important for fashion players. Cutting-edge technology is supporting the fashion industry as it steps into the 4.0 era, ensuring businesses have the right solutions in their own ecosystems, to effectively harness the right data to make the right decisions,” stated Laëtitia Hugé.

At UK fashion brand AllSaints, valuable data harnessed from the net promoter score is paramount for their business. “We take customer feedback very seriously and we use it as a framework for our internal roadmap - from a tech and development point of view, through to design and fit, the customer is at the heart of everything we do,” stated Dan Hartley. In addition, he underlined that using technology across communications “will be huge going forward for AllSaints. From supply chain to store teams, we aim to use a cloud-based system that works within our own eco-system, complementing our agile model.”
The round table was moderated by the co-director of Lectra-ESCP Europe ‘Fashion and Technology’ Chair Valérie Moatti.
 

CHOMARAT, the composite reinforcement specialist group, is launching its multiaxial glass NCF for thermoplastic composites. The unique patented stitching yarn used can withstand processing temperatures to 400°C, making it an innovative industrial solution for thermoplastic composites and an alternative to the woven reinforcements used especially in the automotive sector. For the first time, CHOMARAT is also exhibiting a unidirectional carbon NCF reinforcement that is adapted to the productivity and performance requirements in the wind energy sector.

AN INNOVATIVE INDUSTRIAL SOLUTION TO REINFORCE AUTOMOTIVE THERMOPLASTICS
Thanks to a unique patented stitching yarn, the glass NCF reinforcement (G-PLY™) developed by CHOMARAT offers new possibilities in thermoplastic RTM and organosheet processes. “This is an especially innovative solution, utilizing stitching yarns that are compatible with processing temperatures to 400°C. These multiaxials improve the performance and provide a lot of construction freedom in terms of fibre orientation. These new design possibilities contribute to structural optimization. The quest for more lightweight vehicles, shorter cycle times and lower cost is a major issue for all builders,” explains CHOMARAT Automotive Market Manager Francisco De Oliveira.
This new heat-stable G-PLY™ reinforcement can withstand very high processing temperatures without deformation and provides optimal mechanical performance.

A CARBON UD TO REINFORCE EXTRA-THICK WIND TURBINE STRUCTURES
For the first time, CHOMARAT is exhibiting an infusion-moulded laminate made with 150 plies of its new unidirectional carbon C-PLY™. This 600g/m², high-permeability NCF can be used to create extra-thick structures, in particular the wind-turbine blade stiffeners, or spar caps. “Cost reduction is the challenge in the wind energy industry. Increasing the blade length by incorporating carbon stiffeners increases power, and so it also lowers the cost of the energy,” says CHOMARAT Wind Energy Market Manager Raphaël PLEYNET. The carbon UD developed by CHOMARAT provides a solution to achieve the goal to optimize the weight/power ratio. The UD’s high permeability reduces cycle times and lowers the blade production costs.

Professor Sung Ha from the University of Hanyang will give a conference on composite challenges in the wind energy sector at 11:30 am on Wednesday, 7 March 2018 at JEC World.
Established in 1898, CHOMARAT is an international industrial textile group, involved in three businesses: Composites Reinforcements, Construction Reinforcements, Coatings & Films–Textiles. The privately held company operates in France, Tunisia, the United States and China to service its global customers.
CHOMARAT leads a strong innovation strategy, rising to challenges, developing materials for the future. Hence, the Group invests in new technologies and enters into collaborative research programs with universities and technical centers worldwide.
CHOMARAT offers strong technical know-how and mastery of complex technologies in fields ranging from automotive, aerospace, sports, energy, marine, construction, and also in markets requiring creativity and expertise, like luxury goods.

Paris, February 20, 2018 – Lectra, the technological partner for companies using fabrics and leather, is pleased to announce its partnership with Dual through the signing of a global agreement covering the Korean automotive supplier’s fabric seating and airbag businesses.

Backed by world-class research and development, Dual strives to meet evolving customer needs by offering innovative new automotive interior materials and advanced safety textiles. The supplier’s automotive trim and airbag divisions serve Hyundai-Kia Automotive Group, the fourth largest automaker in the world. Currently undergoing rapid expansion, Hyundai-Kia is counting on Dual to increase its manufacturing capabilities in the high-growth regions where the group operates, including China, Eastern Europe, Turkey and South America.

A key feature of the global agreement is Lectra’s commitment to help Dual optimize its manufacturing processes with the aim of improving its cost structure. Lectra’s most advanced technologies—Vector® for vehicle seating and FocusQuantum® for airbags—and unique expertise in cutting room processes are crucial to helping Dual reach its operational excellence objectives.

The agreement designates Lectra as sole supplier for high-ply cutting equipment and services for Dual’s seating and interiors business, and laser cutting equipment and services for the company’s airbag cushion business at six plants located in Korea and China.
For its operations in Korea and China, Dual will gain access to the full array of expertise, customer support and field services that Lectra provides worldwide. Lectra’s complete customer support structure enables maximum uptime through remote diagnostics and predictive maintenance.

“Dual will benefit most from this agreement by containing costs in the cutting room,” remarks Ong Jae-Yeol, Fabric and Seat BU Executive Managing Director, Dual. “This is precisely where Lectra’s expertise can help us gain a competitive advantage.”
“We are pleased to enter into this global partnership with Dual, to support them—not only with our best-in-class cutting technology, but also with Lectra’s expertise in cutting processes,” states Javier Garcia, Senior VP Automotive Sales, Lectra. “Our unique know-how contributes to Dual’s pursuit of operational excellence—the source of sustainable competitive advantage for car seat cover and airbag cushion suppliers.”

• Emphasis on Process, Third-party Validation and Outcome-based Testing

ALEXANDRIA, Va., February 16, 2018 —Kansas City, Mo.-based Superior Linen Supply has again achieved Hygienically Clean Healthcare certification, reflecting their commitment to best management practices (BMPs) in laundering as verified by on-site inspection and their capability to produce hygienically clean textiles as quantified by ongoing microbial testing.

The laundry was first certified in 2014. Recertification confirms the organization’s continuing dedication to infection prevention, compliance with recognized industry standards and processing healthcare textiles using BMPs as described in its quality assurance documentation, a focal point for Hygienically Clean inspectors’ evaluation. The independent, third-party inspection must also confirm essential evidence that:

• Employees are properly trained and protected
• Managers understand regulatory requirements
• OSHA-compliant
• Physical plant operates effectively

To achieve certification initially, laundries pass three rounds of outcome-based microbial testing, indicating that their processes are producing Hygienically Clean Healthcare textiles and diminished presence of yeast, mold and harmful bacteria. They also must pass a facility inspection. To maintain their certification, they must pass quarterly testing to ensure that as laundry conditions change, such as water quality, textile fabric composition and wash chemistry, laundered product quality is consistently maintained. Re-inspection occurs every two to three years.

This process eliminates subjectivity by focusing on outcomes and results that verify textiles cleaned in these facilities meet appropriate hygienically clean standards and BMPs for hospitals, surgery centers, medical offices, nursing homes and other medical facilities.

Hygienically Clean Healthcare certification acknowledges laundries’ effectiveness in protecting healthcare operations by verifying quality control procedures in linen, uniform and facility services operations related to the handling of textiles containing blood and other potentially infectious materials.

Certified laundries use processes, chemicals and BMPs acknowledged by the federal Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), Centers for Medicare and Medicaid Services, Association for the Advancement of Medical Instrumentation, American National Standards Institute and others. Introduced in 2012, Hygienically Clean Healthcare brought to North America the international cleanliness standards for healthcare linens and garments used worldwide by the Certification Association for Professional Textile Services and the European Committee for Standardization.

Objective experts in epidemiology, infection control, nursing and other healthcare professions work with Hygienically Clean launderers to ensure the certification continues to enforce the highest standards for producing clean healthcare textiles.

“Congratulations to Superior Linen Supply on their recertification,” said Joseph Ricci, TRSA president and CEO. “This achievement proves their ongoing commitment to infection prevention and that their laundry takes every step possible to prevent human illness.”

Baldwin Technology Company Inc.’s exclusive and innovative Precision Application System—which realizes substantial savings of water, chemistry and energy while increasing productivity—was designed with companies like HanesBrands in mind.

HanesBrands—whose venerable apparel lines include Hanes, Champion, Playtex, Bali and Maidenform, to name a few—has set significant environmental stewardship goals to reduce energy consumption and water use. The company’s recent investment in Baldwin’s Precision Application Systems, with a textile finishing technology that allows for accurate and controlled placement and therefore, reduced use of end-of-line chemicals and water, will help HanesBrands achieve its environmental sustainability goals. Additionally, Baldwin’s groundbreaking application system improves output through greater flexibility, fewer production steps and increased uptime.

Mike Abbott, HanesBrands Global Director of Research and Innovation, said: “Baldwin fulfilled our requirements to provide a solution that optimizes our productivity while reducing our environmental impact.” HanesBrands thoroughly evaluated the technology for eight months in live production conditions with positive results. Abbott continued: “During the evaluation period of the system, we have had outstanding results in productivity increase, and we can clearly see that this technology will make a great contribution to our future efficiency and sustainability savings.”

Peter Hultberg, Chief Commercial Officer at Baldwin, said: “We are honored to partner with one of the world’s strongest apparel brands to help the company achieve not only its business goals, but also its corporate responsibility goals. The trust the HanesBrands team placed in Baldwin and our innovative application technology marks an important milestone for Baldwin and our quest to redefine the standards of sustainable textile finishing.”

The HanesBrands contract includes an option to supply 15 additional Precision Application Systems. 

The market for the production of carpet yarn is increasingly evolving towards more demanding processes. However, beyond commodity products, standard plants can no longer fully exploit their advantages. From 20th to 22nd March 2018, Oerlikon Neumag will be presenting an economical alternative in Shanghai in hall W3, booth F03 at the Domotex asia/Chinafloor, the leading floor covering trade fair in the Asia-Pacific region: the BCF plant Sytec One with single-end technology.

If the requirements for the production of BCF yarns increase, for example, from recycled polyester or fine filaments, then this can also lead to higher breakage rates. Highly standardised production plants must then often strike compromises with regard to throughput, quality or cost-efficiency. In such cases, the Sytec One offers a good solution instead of the mostly three-end technology plants for standard processes.

Single-end technology with 98% productivity

This BCF plant works with only one yarn (end) per position, making it ideal for demanding production processes. The reason: when a yarn break occurs only one yarn tears, all other yarns continue to run. This not only simplifies troubleshooting, it also reduces the re-threading time. In addition, less waste is produced. As a result, the productivity of the Sytec One is still over 98% for ten breakages a day, while a plant with three-end technology only reaches around 92%.

Faster processes due to a straight yarn path

In addition, the absolutely straight yarn path of the Sytec One enables significantly higher process speeds of up to 15% in spinning and texturing processes compared to multi-end technologies. Higher total titers of up to 6,000 dtex can also be produced without any problems. The gentle yarn guidance also ensures minimum friction on the individual filaments. This means less yarn breaks and a more stable process.

Optimised key component: spinning pack

Last but not least, the engineers at Oerlikon Neumag have developed a new design for the spinning pack. This central component of every BCF machine significantly influences the yarn quality. The corresponding solution for the Sytec One optimises the polymer flow in the spin pack, thus reducing the polymer dwell time. This leads to shorter product and colour change times and increases the plant efficiency. In addition, the spinning packs were widened so that yarns with up to 500 filaments can now be produced.

The product mix is decisive

In view of these advantages, the single-end Sytec One is recommended for processes with high breakage rates, fine filaments, frequent colour changes or in general when demanding processes take up an increasing share in the business. "The product mix is decisive for the choice of technology," sums up Alfred Czaplinski, Sales Manager BCF at Oerlikon Neumag. "We are happy to advise on the optimal solution and offer both single-end and three-end plant technologies." 

Good business at the Domotex Hanover, Germany

In the run-up to the trade fair, the Domotex Hanover in mid-January was already proving to be a promising harbinger. With four lively trade fair days and contract conclusions in the lower double-digit million euro range, mainly from the European and Asian markets, the order intake for Oerlikon Neumag was very good.

The multi-year deal brings the TOMMY HILFIGER brand back to the world of Formula One for the first time in 17 years, as the Official Apparel Partner for the four-time World Champions Mercedes-AMG Petronas Motorsport.

Tommy Hilfiger, which is owned by PVH Corp. [NYSE: PVH], announces it has formed a multi-year strategic partnership with four-time Formula One World Champions Mercedes-AMG Petronas Motorsport. Starting in the 2018 season, TOMMY HILFIGER will be the Official Apparel Partner of Mercedes-AMG Petronas Motorsport, building on the sport sponsorship heritage that Tommy Hilfiger has embraced since first founding his brand. The partnership with the world’s top Formula One team and leading automobile innovator underscores Tommy Hilfiger’s vision to continuously elevate and expand the brand in key markets for the next generation of TOMMY HILFIGER consumers.

“From the first time I attended a Formula One race, I was completely fascinated by the world of motorsports,” said Tommy Hilfiger. “To be re-entering this arena with World Champions MercedesAMG Petronas Motorsport and their number one team is an incredible way to fuse fashion and Formula One. I recognize the passion, spirit and drive that the entire Mercedes-AMG Petronas Motorsport team shows at every race, and these shared qualities are why I’m excited to partner with them for the upcoming seasons.”

For the past four Formula One seasons, Mercedes-AMG Petronas Motorsport has won both the Constructors’ and Drivers’ World Championships, with the team’s British racing driver Lewis Hamilton winning his fourth World Championship title in 2017 and Finnish driver Valtteri Bottas taking third place.

Under the long-term partnership, TOMMY HILFIGER will be the Official Apparel Partner, supplying travel and team kits, as well as office and hospitality apparel for the more than 1,500 individuals who make up the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Motorsport team. The TOMMY HILFIGER logo will be featured on the team’s 2018 race cars, which will be revealed on February 22, 2018 at the Silverstone track in the United Kingdom, as well as inside the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Motorsport pit garage and other trackside assets.

At Pitti Filati, and as part of a journey to be and make better products, the FILPUCCI GROUP invites the fashion industry to experience its new line of more sustainable yarn creativity.

The “Responsible Innovation Collection” represents a new level of smart innovation linked to responsible, eco-centric production. The collection uses the best high-tech, natural-based materials, combined with FILPUCCI’s dying & finishing expertise. This gives customer’s real access to a new, fashion-forward aesthetic, where quality and smart uniqueness in these new, more responsible yarns, deliver a new textile era of sustainable fashion solutions that are driven by ethical and natural values.

FILPUCCI is proud to announce it is a new official partner of C.L.A.S.S. (Creativity Lifestyle and Sustainable Synergy). Since 2007, C.L.A.S.S., a unique multi-platform HUB based in Milan, specializes in integrating a new generation of eco-values for fashion, home products and business strategies. These values speak to a new, smarter, contemporary consumer. Founded by Giusy Bettoni, C.L.A.S.S. introduces a new way of design thinking that represents a shift in culture, enabling businesses to be competitive and socially innovative.
From this platform, FILPUCCI is also a key ambassador for the unique C.L.A.S.S. partner product, Re.Verso™, for its luxury upcycled cashmere yarns.

New additional steps on the FILPUCCI journey towards a more responsible approach to smart design and manufacture also include:

• The signing of a new ‘Values Chart’ in conjunction with a joint consortium to guarantee sustainable production chains that are fully traceable with certified materials and measured environmental performances, such as reducing CO2, water use and power consumption.
• The company is also GRS accredited with dyeing facilities that are second to none, boasting a GOTS certification alongside recycling 70% of water and also as part of the DETOX campaign for the last 3 years.  This is a key added value mirroring the whole company’s dyeing operation.
• The FILPUCCI GROUP produces its own ‘Balance of Sustainability’ report each year to measure and account for issues relating to the business impact of a responsible innovation strategy, and research optimization into origins of materials, transparency, certifications and processes designed to reduce environmental impacts and a no-waste manufacturing philosophy.

There are seven new yarn styles in the Responsible Innovation Collection with smart blends of only the best, certified, organic and natural materials (cottons & linens), new generation wool Re.Verso™ and sustainable hi-tech materials (Cupro and Q-Nova) for 5 to 18 gauge knitwear design:
CERA, GRACE, BIONYCO, SUGHERO, FOUR SEASONS, PLANET, BONTON, KAMUT

METALBOTTONI has drawn up its new strategy for the year 2018, based on a targeted trade fair
schedule and on many product innovations. These innovations are part of a marketing approach
which is more and more branding ingredient-oriented, in order to highlight the added value
of the accessory as a component characterising and enhancing product recognition, as well as
strengthening its consulting activities for customers, thus offering true excellence in service.
There are three main elements pointing to a positive moment for METALBOTTONI: its recent
outstanding performance in double-digit on foreign markets (most notably in the northern
European region), the consolidation of consulting and support services aimed at redesigning the
perspective on the world of accessories, and its product range extension. The fourth pillar, actually
a fixture at METALBOTTONI, is sustainable innovation with the protocol called NO IMPACT which has
made a huge step forward thanks to new technologies which halved water consumption compared
to previous performances of the system, obtaining also better results in a shorter processing time,
saving electricity as well.

An ongoing pathway
There are many novelties to be displayed by METALBOTTONI at three of the most important events
in the industry early in the new year. The company from Bergamo will be present at Munich Fabric
Start (30 January – 1 February), then at Milano Unica (6-8 February), and finally in Paris for the new
edition of Première Vision Accessories (13-15 February).

At the Munich Fabric Start in Munich, TINTEX proudly announced its complete switch from the use of conventional cotton and the concomitant launch of a new fabric range that is the highest expression of the new generation of cotton: Naturally Advanced Cotton by TINTEX.

This new range is able to offer an advanced smart choice of 4 different premium and responsible advanced cotton solutions such as BCI Cotton, ECOTEC® by Marchi & Fildi, GOTS certified organic cotton and Supima. These new fabrics maintain and upgrade the transparent, hi-tech and sustainable organics that are at the heart of the TINTEX DNA. They represent better, smarter ecomaterials with new levels of performance and hi-tech smarts, thanks to a first class expertise in specialist dyeing and finishing techniques, coatings and applications that use the latest research, equipment and processes to deliver it. 

This new launch is confirming once more the commitment of TINTEX to its ‘Naturally Advanced’ position meaning “advancing beautiful, organic and natural materials to the next level combined with unique, hybrid ‘nature-tech’ smarts, with added value and creativity, thanks to dedicated investments that serve and secure our customer’s demands both now and in the seasons to come” says CEO Mario Jorge Silva.

The “Naturally Advanced Cotton” on Collection by TINTEX:

BCI cotton: The Better Cotton Initiative has specific aims:

• Reduce the environmental impact of cotton production
• Improve livelihoods and economic development in cotton producing areas
• Improve commitment to and flow of Better Cotton throughout supply chain.

ECOTEC® by Marchi & Fildi: a range of full-colour yarns, a smarter cotton made from pre-consumer clippings that save up to 77,9% water during manufacture. This season TINTEX is also introducing a new, finer ECOTEC® yarn called Phoenix, also GRS certified, being made from 50% ECOTEC® cotton and 50% recycled polyester. Here wellbeing credentials are guaranteed with Tessile e Salute* certification. 

GOTS Organic Cotton: The Global Organic Textile Standard GOTS is the most important standard for sustainable production of garments and natural fiber textile products from organic farming such as organic cotton or organic wool. GOTS criteria measures environmental, technical quality, toxicity and social impacts. GOTS is backed by independent certification for the entire supply chain.

Supima Cotton: Luxury, quality and craftsmanship are the benchmarks of American-grown, extra-long staple cotton. TINTEX offers 100% Supima precious fabrics and blends with tencel.

These special 4 cotton actors are made even more “advanced” by unique smart finishing as Plummy and Naturally Clean, for clean surfaces, bright colours, outstanding touch always with a very careful eye at the responsible values.