From the Sector

Scoop closed July 21 at Olympia National following three days of strong buyer engagement, thoughtful industry discussion and considered buying, as the SS'27 edition once again demonstrated the strength of its distinctive approach to fashion buying. Bringing together premium fashion, accessories and lifestyle collections from across the UK, Europe and beyond, the show welcomed leading department stores, independent retailers and international buyers, all taking time to write orders, discover new designers and reconnect with established collections.

Buyer attendance reflected the calibre and international appeal of the show, with retailers including Fenwick Stores, Liberty London, Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, Le Bon Marche, The Dressing Room, The Polizzi Collection Shop, Iris, Pamela Schiffer, Sisters, Blu, Cream, El Corte Ingles Spain,  Cordelia James, V&A Museum, The National Gallery and Royal Opera House Covent Garden among those attending across the three-day event.
Buyers praised both the quality of the collections and the show's carefully edited format, highlighting the opportunity to discover new designers while spending meaningful time with existing suppliers.

Designers also reported a successful edition, welcoming returning retail partners alongside new buyers, while highlighting the commercial value of Scoop's focused edit and the calibre of retailers attending the show.

A standout feature of this season's programme was Behind The Curtain, Karen Radley's exclusive conversation with the womenswear buying team from Galeries Lafayette. Offering buyers and exhibitors a rare opportunity to hear directly from one of Europe's most influential department stores, Fanny Courtade, Womenswear Buying Manager, alongside Ready-to-Wear Buyers Alice Sordello and Julia Bonnebat, shared insight into the realities of modern buying, discussing everything from identifying emerging designers and balancing creativity with commercial performance to understanding evolving customer expectations. The session reinforced Scoop's commitment to pairing exceptional buying opportunities with valuable retail insight.

Scoop's landmark partnership with the Italian Trade Agency remained a defining feature of the SS'27 edition, celebrating the show's largest-ever collective of Italian designers through a programme of buyer events, networking opportunities and the dedicated Style Spotlight: Discover Italian Design.

Reflecting on the close of the show, Karen Radley, Founder and Managing Director of Scoop, said: "What has stood out most this season is the time buyers have spent with the collections. They've taken time to explore collections, ask questions, write orders and discover designers they may not otherwise have found. That thoughtful approach has always been at the heart of Scoop, and it's incredibly rewarding to see it reflected across the show floor."

As the doors close on the SS'27 edition, Scoop once again demonstrated the enduring value of thoughtful curation. By bringing together exceptional international collections, influential retailers and a programme of insightful industry content, the show continues to offer one of fashion's most distinctive buying experiences.

At Bluezone ISKO is debuting its FW 27–28 Collection, structured around a trio of core sensory pillars: color, texture, and touch. This season, the textile leader showcases a creative vision where emotional connection and advanced technical innovation come together. The entire range is anchored by a dedicated commitment to eco-conscious material creation, utilizing patented processing technologies and high-quality Next-Gen materials powered by RE&UP. 

ISKO FW27–28 collection: Supreme Colors and beyond 
Anchoring the new season is Supreme Colors, a concept that highlights ISKO’s deep mastery of color innovation through a broad and adaptable shade spectrum spanning various product lines. Enhanced by strong yarn character, fast fading properties, and laser-compatible finishing techniques, the range delivers a high-definition visual depth alongside authentic, vintage denim characteristics. 

Building upon this color-focused story, Iconic Craft redefines fabric texture as a central design element. Bold surface treatments, multi-layered structures, and progressive finishes produce highly tactile textiles that fluidly shift from heritage authenticity to experimental, techno-inspired aesthetics. Completing the collection's sensory profile is ISKO™ Wondersoft, which prioritizes the physical hand-feel by introducing fluid, silky, and remarkably soft qualities that balance everyday durability with refined comfort. 

Capsule Collections: Four Creative Expressions 
This seasonal design philosophy comes to life across four distinct capsule collections, each exploring the overarching aesthetic theme through a unique point of view: 

• City Glam 2.0: Explores the boundaries of denim through a polished, metropolitan lens. It introduces a balance of matte and glossy finishes to add subtle luminosity and elevated sophistication while respecting denim’s classic roots. 
• D.Lite 2.0: Concentrates on lightweight fabric weights and fluid comfort. This capsule features flexible, exceptionally soft denim qualities designed for effortless movement and a relaxed aesthetic, meeting the modern demand for comfort-first apparel without losing a sleek edge. 
• Chino’s Utility: Reimagines traditional chino archetypes with a contemporary, laid-back sensibility. Classic, seasonless navy and beige baselines are updated with progressive colorways, tactile surfaces, and technical weave constructions that blend functional wear with elegant style. 
• Natural Meal: Presents an organic exploration focused on off-white and natural ecru palettes. Centered on raw authenticity, this capsule pairs clean tonal depth with distinct 
• fabric textures, offering a softer, more organic take on denim culture that highlights material character and mindful engineering. 

“Our presence at Bluezone highlights a deep commitment to pushing the boundaries of what denim can be,” said Fatma Korkmaz, Product Development Manager at ISKO. “This season, we are shifting the conversation toward an immersive, sensory experience where color depth and intricate textures take center stage and blending it with the incredible circular capabilities of RE&UP, to show the industry that high-end design and environmental responsibility belong together.” 

ISKO™ Luxury by PG – H.A. HUMAN ART 
Running alongside the core range, ISKO™ Luxury by PG debuts H.A. HUMAN ART, a visionary project celebrating artisanal craftsmanship in the era of artificial intelligence. Created by Paolo Gnutti, this line returns the focus to analog, human creativity, emphasizing tactile experimentation and emotion-driven design. The concept explores eight distinct directions, spanning tailored denim structures and highly textured black surfaces to multi-colored weaves, faux-fur techniques, and innovative reverse-side prints, merging artisanal spirit with premium technical luxury

In a big win for lower impact products, eVent Fabrics, a global leader in waterproof and breathable fabric technologies, is partnering with PELLIOT, one of China’s fastest-growing outdoor brands, to bring their flagship PFAS-free alpineST and windstormST laminates to the rapidly expanding China outdoor market. Founded in 2012, PELLIOT is a leading Chinese high-performance outdoor lifestyle brand. The company has a long history of supporting elite mountaineers and explorers in scaling the world’s highest peaks and conducting expeditions of significant scientific value.

PFAS in functional textiles has become a significant industry concern, making the transition to PFAS-free materials a clear market imperative. PELLIOT specializes in high-performance outdoor gear for mountaineering, travel, hiking, and skiing. Through this partnership with eVent Fabrics, PELLIOT is expanding its next-generation product range, further cementing its position as an industry benchmark for functional outdoor apparel.

“This partnership with PELLIOT represents a big step forward in the global reduction of PFAS in consumer apparel,” said Chad Kelly, Vice President of eVent Fabrics. “As one of the fastest growing outdoor apparel brands in China, PELLIOT is a volume leader, which means this partnership could have a real effect on attitudes towards PFAS in China’s explosive, multi-billion dollar outdoor sports market.”

"At PELLIOT, we are not only committed to crafting top-tier, versatile professional outdoor apparel for enthusiasts worldwide, but also to advancing material innovation and responsible product development," said Zhao Le, Vice President of PELLIOT. "The environmental hazards associated with traditional chemical materials, such as PFAS, have become a pressing concern for the entire outdoor industry. Driving the transition toward PFAS-free and low-carbon textiles is not only an inevitable industry trend but also a fundamental responsibility and mission for leading brands. We look forward to partnering with eVent to steer the industry away from its reliance on traditional PFAS-based fabrics while continuing to deliver the performance consumers expect."

Designed with the planet in mind, the PFAS-free alpineST membrane is laminated with performance face fabrics and backers, and finished with a C0 DWR finish. Ideal for demanding activities, alpineST provides the ultimate shield from the elements. The alpineST laminate can be found in the PELLIOT SS27 alpineST Hard Shell Jacket.

The windstormST laminate combines eVent’s plant-based membrane with recycled / low impact face and backer fabrics. Finished with a C0 DWR for sustainable performance, this softshell laminate completely blocks wind while repelling light rain and snow. Perfect for a wide-range of conditions, windstormST will be used in PELLIOT’S FW26 windstormST Soft Shell Jacket.

With its fifth participation at Pitti Uomo, CHINA WAVE once again underscored the dynamic rise of Chinese designer brands on the international stage. The showcased collections demonstrated how Chinese labels are increasingly defining themselves through distinctive design languages, technological innovation and cultural authenticity, attracting growing attention from the global fashion industry. 

As the flagship brand of the collective presentation, SEPTWOLVES impressed visitors with a collection combining functionality, sustainability and Chinese cultural heritage. Alongside its further enhanced Business Travel Jacket featuring advanced technical innovations, the Wulin World Heritage Collection and the sustainable polo line crafted from natural fibres attracted particular interest. International buyers praised SEPTWOLVES for translating traditional Chinese craftsmanship and intangible cultural heritage into a contemporary design language with global appeal. The collections led to intensive discussions with buyers and distributors from Europe, South America, the Middle East and Central Asia, reaffirming the brand's growing international potential. 

For SWOF CARE, the hat wear brand, direct engagement with the international market was the central focus. The new SUPER SWOF "SS Super Classic" collection and the handcrafted BLACK LABEL line successfully combined traditional Chinese millinery with a contemporary design aesthetic. Particularly valuable for the brand was the immediate feedback received from international buyers and industry professionals, providing important inspiration for future collection development. At the same time, numerous concrete business opportunities emerged, with buyers expressing interest in sourcing solutions, product customization, long-term distribution partnerships and agency collaborations. Establishing new partnerships to further accelerate the brand's international expansion also ranks among the lasting achievements of its participation. 

With its distinctive interpretation of contemporary Oriental aesthetics, ZIFEI WANG became one of the creative highlights of CHINA WAVE. Combining artistic expression with premium ready-to-wear fashion, the collection impressed international buyers as well as renowned showrooms and premium boutiques. Particular praise was given to its successful balance between avant-garde creativity and commercial relevance. The successful presentation in Florence further strengthened the brand's international positioning while paving the way for future presentations across Europe like the forthcoming Milan Fashion Week in September.  

SOARIN presented its unique design philosophy under the guiding concept "I Become." Through plant-based dyeing techniques, innovative material research and the fusion of traditional craftsmanship with contemporary design, the brand developed a distinctive creative signature. International buyers and industry professionals particularly appreciated its creative originality and innovative use of materials. Discussions during the fair generated promising prospects for future collaborations and international showcases. 

SOARIN WORLD, the pioneering Chinese label under the SOARIN brand, presented a collection rooted in an Eastern interpretation of beauty while embracing a forward-looking design philosophy. Drawing inspiration from ethnic cultures, nature and humanity, the brand reinterprets traditional Chinese aesthetics through a contemporary lens, creating garments that bridge heritage and modernity. International buyers and industry professionals praised the collection's distinctive cultural identity and sophisticated craftsmanship, recognising its strong potential for premium retail and concept stores. The presentation in Florence further strengthened SOARIN WORLD's international visibility and opened promising opportunities for future collaborations and market expansion. 

For KIMUSSO, Pitti Uomo represented far more than a platform for presenting a collection. The avant-garde womenswear label used the direct exchange with international buyers to further refine its positioning in the global market. Immediate feedback confirmed the brand's particular strength within the progressive concept store and curated premium boutique segment. The exhibition therefore marked an important milestone in reflecting on the brand's identity from an international perspective and further sharpening its future strategic direction. 

Under this year's theme, "The Pitti Pool," Pitti Uomo 110 once again proved to be a meeting point for the ideas, perspectives and partnerships shaping the future of the global fashion industry. Through its fifth participation, CHINA WAVE demonstrated how naturally Chinese designer brands have become part of this international creative ecosystem. From technological innovation and sustainable material concepts to a confident expression of cultural identity, the participating labels presented their own distinctive visions for the future of fashion, attracting significant interest from international buyers and key industry decision-makers. 

CHINA WAVE has long evolved into far more than a collective exhibition. The platform connects Chinese designer brands with international business partners, creates new market opportunities and fosters creative dialogue between East and West. The successful presentation in Florence clearly demonstrated that Chinese brands are increasingly recognised as drivers of innovation, design excellence and cross-cultural exchange. Following this milestone edition, attention is already turning to the next chapter: from January 12 to 15, 2027, CHINA WAVE will return to Pitti Uomo 111 in Florence, bringing a new wave of Chinese creativity to the international stage. 

The first chapter of Catalyst Club debuted in Florence, bringing together creative directors, entrepreneurs, manufacturers, journalists and innovators from across the fashion and textile industry for an evening of dialogue, exchange and connection.

Hosted at the Soko Innovation Hub and developed in partnership with Pioneer Denim, the gathering took place around a single long table, bringing guests together in an informal and convivial setting designed to encourage open conversation and the sharing of ideas.

During his opening speech at the dinner, Matteo Urbini, MD of Soko Chimica, expressed his enthusiasm for the initiative: "It’s a real pleasure to host an evening where we can finally move past virtual networking and connect in person. Getting together live is still the best way to build authentic relationships and make real things happen."

Set within a relaxed and convivial environment, free from presentations, panels and formal agendas, the evening encouraged guests to engage openly, allowing ideas, perspectives and future visions to flow naturally. Conversations touched on sustainability, creativity, manufacturing and innovation, generating valuable connections and opportunities for collaboration while introducing the purpose of Catalyst Club: a community designed to bring together the people shaping the future of fashion, denim and innovation through dialogue, exchange and shared inspiration.

The first chapter was realized with the support of Pioneer Denim, whose commitment to innovation and industry collaboration reflects the values at the heart of the initiative.

The Florence gathering represents the beginning of a journey that will continue through future chapters, expanding a network of professionals united by the belief that meaningful change starts with connection.

About Catalyst Club Catalyst Club is a curated community that brings together the people shaping the future of fashion, denim and innovation. Through intimate gatherings and meaningful conversations, it creates opportunities for ideas, perspectives and collaborations to emerge and evolve.

About Soko Soko is an innovation-driven chemical company serving the global fashion and textile industry. Through research, partnerships and its Soko Innovation Hub, the company promotes collaboration, sustainability and knowledge-sharing across the supply chain. Soko is the creator and organizer of Catalyst Club.

About Pioneer Denim Pioneer Denim is a leading denim manufacturer recognized for its commitment to innovation, quality and responsible production, supporting global brands through advanced technologies and sustainable practices.

Ponda, a UK-based biomaterials company with roots at Imperial College London, has partnered with the university to make branded clothing from wetland-grown plants.

The first products in this collaboration – a Mallard gilet and a Fern cap – are insulated with BioPuff®, a material made from bulrush grown on restored wetlands rather than oil or animal products. The clothing will be on sale exclusively at the Imperial College Union campus shop and online store this autumn.

Full circle collaboration
The world produces around 92 million tonnes of textile waste every year. That is the equivalent of a bin lorry of clothing burned or landfilled every second. Branded merchandise sits at a difficult intersection of this problem: it often relies on conventional materials with significant environmental impacts, yet is discarded long before the end of its useful life. BioPuff® offers an alternative approach, using plant-based insulation designed to connect product manufacturing with wetland restoration, and lower-impact material systems. Importantly, it also outperforms premium synthetics on warmth.

The collaboration between Ponda and Imperial is part of Sustainable Imperial, the university’s commitment to lead on climate change, biodiversity loss and pollution through research, education, operations and community action. But the ambition runs wider than one campus.

Professor Anna Korre, Imperial’s Associate Provost (Sustainability), said: "This partnership will give Imperial's community the chance to directly back climate friendly fashion innovation. We're proud to celebrate this collaboration as part of our strategy launch. Ponda's story is a powerful example of how Imperial aims to maximise its positive impact on people and planet by giving our students and innovators the tools they need to find solutions to some of the world's most pressing challenges."

About the innovative insulation
Ponda’s BioPuff® has already been used by fashion companies Stella McCartney, Berghaus, Ahluwalia and Sheep Inc. The team exhibited at the Sustainable Markets Initiative CEO Summit at Hampton Court Palace, where they met King Charles III and were recognised by the King’s Terra Carta Design Lab.
The first-of-its-kind insulation, which outperforms premium synthetics on warmth, is made from Typha (bulrush) and grown through paludiculture, the farming of wetland crops on rewetted peatlands.

Each BioPuff®-insulated gilet has the equivalent impact of restoring four square metres of healthy wetland. That represents approximately:

• 9kg of CO2e in avoided emissions each year
• 800 litres of water stored
• three times the bird density of drained land

Wetlands hold more than twice the carbon of all the world’s trees combined. The millions of hectares of drained peatlands emit approximately 1.9 gigatonnes of CO2 a year, roughly twice the total emissions of the global fashion industry.