From the Sector

For the past ten years, the OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN label has been answering questions like: Where does my clothing come from and how was it made? It stands for transparency, responsibility, and traceability along the textile supply chain. As a founding member of OEKO-TEX®, Hohenstein played a key role in developing the label.

On the tenth anniversary of OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN, German football club Hamburger SV (HSV) is also celebrating a major milestone: both the men’s and women’s teams have earned promotion to the Bundesliga. To mark the occasion, the traditional club, in collaboration with its long-standing supplier MBA Solutions GmbH, has launched special edition promotion T-shirts certified with the OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN label.

“Rapidly produced success items like the promotion T-shirt should ideally meet the same standards as any other product,” says Sascha Steinbrück, Head of Merchandising at HSV. “What matters to me is that a product is manufactured with ecological and social sustainability in mind and has been tested for harmful substances.” With this promotion T-shirt, HSV once again sets a strong example for certified fan merchandise as a promise for the future. 

The October 2025 edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS, taking place from October 29–30 in Munich, will spotlight a topic that is vital for the future of the textile industry: the role of recyclers in an increasingly circular economy. Under the new Focus Topic “Textile to Textile – the role of recyclers”, the fair aims to provide in-depth insights into one of the most pressing challenges of the industry.

The linear textile model is nearing its end. With increasing regulatory pressures such as Extended Producer Responsibility EPR and Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules PEFCR, circularity is shifting from aspiration to necessity. While mechanical recycling of PET bottles is well established, textile-to-textile T2T recycling remains at an earlier and more complex stage of development.

Recyclers are now playing a pivotal role in the transition to circular systems. However, many are still adapting to the scale and technical challenges involved. T2T recycling is not a standalone solution and it is part of a broader transformation that also requires reducing overproduction, encouraging reuse and repair, and rethinking design and consumption models.

The urgency is clear: the global textile industry generates 92 million tonnes of waste annually, yet less than 1% is recycled into new clothing (Ellen MacArthur Foundation). Unlike downcycling or waste-to-energy methods, T2T recycling retains material quality, enabling the production of new garments from existing ones. The ultimate goal is a closed-loop system that minimizes waste and reduces dependency on virgin resources.

In Europe, policy is accelerating this shift. The EU Waste Framework Directive mandates separate collection of textiles by 2025. In parallel, the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles promotes the reduction of virgin material use and enhances resource efficiency. These initiatives are driving investment in sorting technologies, digital product passports, and advanced recycling systems.

Regina Goller, Head of Material Strategy and Future Trends, explains:
“Circularity is the key topic of our time – and textile-to-textile recycling is a core pillar of the circular economy. The industry is working intensively on solutions, and much is already possible, even on a large scale. At the same time, new regulations are demanding concrete action. At PERFORMANCE DAYS, we see it as our mission to raise awareness – both for what is already possible and what lies ahead. We connect the right players and build the networks needed to truly close the loop.”

In light of the recent court cases involving two of LVMH’s subsidiaries, where workers in the supply chain had allegedly been exploited, LVMH is reassessing its supply chains across all subsidiaries. 
 
Luxury conglomerate LVMH is piloting traceability technology across its brands as Loro Piano became the second of its subsidiaries to be placed under court administration this week. 
 
The luxury market has been hit by a series of scandals, from labour exploitation to fake viral stories about luxury goods being made in China alongside fake goods. 
 
The Court of Milan found that Loro Piana, which makes expensive cashmere clothing, subcontracted its production through two front firms that had no actual manufacturing capacity to Chinese-owned workshops in Italy, which the court said exploited workers. 
 
Loro Piana Spa will undergo court monitoring for a year, according to the 26-page ruling released this week, which stems from investigations into the world of subcontracting for luxury goods in Italy that started in 2023. 
 
Units of fashion brands Valentino, LVMH's second largest brand Dior, Italy's Armani, and Italian handbag company Alviero Martini have also been placed under administration recently. 
 
LVMH, the world's biggest luxury group, acquired 80% of Loro Piana in July 2013, with the Italian family that founded the company retaining 20%, according to the court ruling. 
 
Loro Piana declined to comment to Reuters. LVMH was not immediately available for comment. 
In June, Loro Piana appointed Frederic Arnault, a son of LVMH chairman and Chief Executive Bernard Arnault, as its CEO. 
 
In their statement, Italian police concluded they had closed two Chinese-owned factories, the third being a ‘paper’ company with no production capacity, and imposed a joint fine of over 240,000 euros. 
 
One of the workers at the factories allegedly told police he had been hospitalised for over a month after being beaten for asking for his Chinese bosses for unpaid wages. 
 
The Milan court in its ruling on Loro Piana also appointed an external administrator to verify that the company meets all the judges' demands on control of its supply chain, according to documents seen by Reuters. 
 
The administration will be lifted earlier if the unit brings its practices into line with legal requirements, as was the case with Dior, Armani and Alviero Martini. 
 
LVMH reassured its shareholders in its latest AGM in April that it had used traceability platform TextileGenesis to look into tracking a sample 31,000 products across key brands including Louis Vuitton, Loro Piana, Dior and Bulgari.  
 
The system documents anything from the origin of cashmere used in Loro Piana scarves to the material sourcing for Louis Vuitton handbags. 
 
"Traceability and transparency are the fundamental principles that guarantee the excellence of our products," Antoine Arnault, chairman of Loro Piana and head of communications and image at LVMH, told shareholders at the company's annual general meeting in April. 
 
TextileGenesis founder Amit Gautam confirmed that demand for traceability solutions has surged since another subsidiary of LMVH owned Dior was placed under court administration last year for unethical supply chain practices. 
 
"Brands are realising that consumers now expect verification, not just storytelling," he said. "The luxury sector can no longer assume trust based on brand heritage alone."

Reconomy, a leading international circular economy specialist, has published a new global strategy exploring the evolving global landscape of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for textiles, outlining how businesses can prepare for upcoming changes and detailing Reconomy’s strategic initiatives to support businesses across Europe and worldwide.

The textile industry is approaching a period of significant regulatory and operational transformation. Traditionally, one of the most resource-intensive sectors, textiles generate substantial waste and emissions throughout their lifecycle. 

New EPR legislation is driving a fundamental shift by making producers responsible for end-of-life management, including collection, reuse, recycling, and disposal. This structural change is intended to accelerate the transition towards circular business models and more sustainable production and consumption patterns.

Reconomy views this regulatory shift not as a compliance burden, but as a critical opportunity for innovation and competitive differentiation. By supporting stakeholders in turning regulatory requirements into strategic advantages, Reconomy aims to help businesses build more resilient and circular operations while meeting increasing expectations from consumers, retailers, and policymakers.

The new strategy paper, Textile EPR Strategy 2030, sets out a comprehensive five-year roadmap, providing an overview of anticipated policy timelines and evolving requirements. It also addresses key themes including eco-modulation, Digital Product Passports, and the growing need for robust data and supply chain transparency.

The document outlines Reconomy’s mission and specific initiatives over the next five years that will enable clients to navigate the complex textile EPR landscape effectively.

In the short term, during the “pre-EPR” phase, this includes helping clients understand the regulatory impact, preparing them operationally, building strong partnerships across the textile ecosystem — including with sorters, recyclers, and other key stakeholders — and investing in technology to enable advanced data management and material returns. 

In the longer term, once EPR legislation is established across all EU member states and additional global markets, Reconomy will continue to support clients with multi-jurisdictional compliance (including in regions such as North America), help them leverage product-level data insights to drive innovation and better product design, and accelerate their transition to circular business models.

The strategy follows the launch of Reconomy's Textile EPR Impact Assessment service – a new tailored service designed to help businesses prepare for the rapidly evolving landscape of textile regulations.

Lavi Aharon, Director of Reconomy’s Textile Programme and Business Development Director, said:
“Textile producers are facing an increasingly complex and fast-evolving regulatory landscape as EPR schemes roll out across the world, and especially in Europe. At the same time, they are under growing pressure to demonstrate real progress on sustainability to retailers and consumers.”

In response to mounting global regulations and the push for a circular economy, CEMATEX (the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers) is launching ITMA Sustainability Forum: Accelerating the Green Transition on 30 October at Singapore Expo. 

The half-day forum is designed to help textile and garment manufacturers, particularly from South and Southeast Asia and the Middle East, navigate the European Union’s evolving sustainability regulations, and access to green financing opportunities to support their transition. 

Held alongside ITMA ASIA + CITME, Singapore 2025, the forum brings together EU policymakers, financial institutions, and industry leaders to facilitate cross-border dialogue and knowledge exchange. 

Singapore Fashion Council, the official association for the textile and fashion 
industry in Singapore, is the programme partner of the forum organised by ITMA Services. 

Mr Alex Zucchi, President, CEMATEX, said: “Sustainability has become a global priority. The textile industry must act swiftly to modernise production in line with regulatory demands and growing consumer expectations. This forum provides a much-needed platform for manufacturers to better understand the EU’s legislative landscape and the financing tools available for sustainable growth.” 

A key highlight of the forum will be the keynote presentation by Ms Kristin Schreiber, Director, European Commission DG GROW. She will provide a comprehensive overview of the EU’s sustainability roadmap and upcoming regulations driving the shift towards circular textile production.

Ms Schreiber said: “South and Southeast Asia are vital players in the global textile value chain. Many producers in these regions export to the European market, and their ability to align with upcoming requirements will be critical to a successful and inclusive transition. I look forward to exchanging perspectives at this forum on how we can collaborate globally to build a more sustainable and resilient textile industry.”

Under the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, by 2030, all textiles placed on the EU market must be durable, recyclable, largely made from recycled fibres and free from hazardous substances. Manufacturers worldwide must act now to meet these requirements and remain competitive. 

Programme highlights 

• Shaping Sustainability: Responding to EU Policy Changes
  Moderator: Ms Nicole van der Elst Desai, Founder, VDE Consultancy 
  Speaker: Mr Robert van de Kerkhof, CEO, ReHubs 
• Profit Meets Purpose: Financing Sustainability 
  Moderator: Mr Brandon Courban, Senior Advisor (Climate), Openspace Ventures
  Speakers:
  - Dr Rene Van Berkel, Senior Circular Economy Expert, Switch Asia, EU Policy Support Component
  - Ms Iris Ng, Head, Emerging Business & Global Commercial Banking, OCBC Bank
  - Mr Michael Rattinger, Senior Climate Change Specialist, Asian Development Bank

Source Fashion announces £500,000 investment in a scheme to support British Heritage manufacturers. On Day 2 of Source Fashion the show has unveiled a major new initiative designed to champion British manufacturing. The new scheme will provide each of 15 selected UK-based heritage manufacturers with a fully funded stand, marketing support, and brand development assistance, representing over £500,000 worth of support to run across the next three years.

Beginning February 2026, Source Fashion will form a dedicated British Heritage Pavilion to showcase the 15 curated, high-quality, heritage manufacturers, from across the UK. The selected businesses will receive support for three consecutive editions of the show, a move designed to help them build long-term visibility and growth.

“As Source Fashion grows into the largest manufacturing sourcing show in Europe, we believe it’s our responsibility to support the brilliant manufacturers we have here in the UK,” said Suzanne Ellingham, Event Director of Source Fashion. “This is about more than just giving away stands. We’re investing in the future of British manufacturing by helping these businesses tell their stories, connect with international buyers, and grow sustainably. It’s a small way that we can give back, while also making sure UK manufacturing is properly represented on the global stage.”

The programme will be open to a diverse range of UK manufacturers, from heritage textiles in Scotland to component specialists in the Midlands and South. It aims to address a long-standing lack of support for British producers who often struggle to afford the costs of exhibiting, especially when compared to government-subsidised competitors abroad.
Each business will receive:

• A free stand at three consecutive Source Fashion shows in January 2026, July 2026 and January 2027.
• Dedicated bespoke PR and marketing campaigns
• Exposure through Source Fashion’s global content channels

To ensure the most deserving and high-potential manufacturers are selected, Source Fashion will work with their advisory board to identify manufacturers and makers that would benefit from the show.  

The first full cohort of heritage manufacturers will be announced in September 2025. While most participants are still under wraps, organisers have confirmed outreach has already begun, and standout British businesses have already been selected to join the inaugural pavilion include Courtnery and Co, The last remaining button manufacturer in the UK, and Alexander Manufacturing. These companies represent the exceptional craftsmanship and highlight how special British manufacturing and heritage can be. The scheme aims to spotlight, with more names to be revealed in the coming months.

Polyurethane foam has traditionally been used to reduce noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) in vehicles, contributing to passenger comfort. At the Automotive Acoustics Conference in Constance, Germany, Autoneum presented a polyester felt-based sound insulation system that is lightweight, resilient and shapeable, thus combining best-in-class acoustic performance and precise contours with enhanced recyclability.

Flexi-Light PET is manufactured from a novel blend of polyester fibers that is primarily sourced from recycled PET. Through a state-of-the-art production process, Autoneum can adjust the fibers’ orientation to produce a proprietary felt with mechanical and acoustic properties comparable to polyurethane foam. The material is flexible and can be molded into 3D shapes, making it an ideal insulation material for interior components with complex contours, such as carpets and inner dashes.

Composed entirely of PET — up to 90% of which is recycled content — Flexi-Light PET can be used as a decoupler in conjunction with other PET-based technologies within Autoneum’s product portfolio to support full circularity, allowing for the reuse of production waste and end-of-life recycling of the product. Flexi-Light PET is the latest addition to Autoneum's Pure technologies, which are intended to offer an excellent environmental performance throughout the entire product life cycle.

This innovation builds on the Flexi-Loft technology, which is made from a blend of recycled cotton and polyester fibers and was initially introduced by Autoneum in 2021.

The 56th INNATEX in Frankfurt addresses urgent issues in the Green Fashion sector. From 19 to 21 July 2025 at the Messecenter Hofheim RheinMain, the international trade fair for sustainable textiles offers not only an exhibition of more than 200 Green Fashion labels but also a range of new elements. As a general trend, a rise in the number of young, progressive HERITAGE brands is evident.  

Increase turnover with the right digital strategy 
First there will be a motivating presentation by CDH Mitte (the wholesale and retail industry association for the German states of Hessen, Thuringia and Rhineland Palatinate) entitled ‘Digitalisation that sells – how textile and lifestyle brands are actually reaching new customers today’. Speaker Meltem Alca demonstrates, with the aid of a digital showroom, how emotive appeals to customers and modern sales psychology work. The presentation is aimed at fashion designers, labels, agencies and retailers. 

“Nowadays, anyone wanting to increase sales needs to sell in the same way that people make decisions – personally, intuitively, digitally,” says Meltem Alca. “Video, voice and neuro-sales tools make relationship-based sales strategies easier. These new concepts enable customers to be addressed through emotions, they are brain-friendly and they are measurable.” 
Likewise new to the programme is the Handelsverband Hessen’s expert session ‘Security in retail: shoplifting, rights, prevention’. In this Q&A session, Manuel Hable (Head of Security & Fraud Prevention at JC New Retail AG, the holding company for the Peek & Cloppenburg Group), Ina Kasperski (police superintendent at the State of Hessen Office of Criminal Investigation) and Stefan Siegel (Managing Director of security firm Rentario Sicherheitsmanagement GmbH) will be providing practical suggestions for dealing with a problem affecting physical retail stores ever more frequently. 
 
Foresight, progress and world events 
The keynote speech ‘On the state of sustainable fashion: what is important now’ explores why, despite climate change, the focus on sustainability is reducing while fast fashion flourishes. Speaker Nina Lorenzen of Fashion Changers presents the background and the opportunities that arise, even – in fact especially – for smaller businesses. 

“We all share the vision of a fair and sustainable world, but without a strategic view of sales, profitability and readiness to continue developing, businesses no longer get very far,” says Alexander Hitzel, INNATEX Project Manager. “That may seem obvious but it’s not at all easy in practice. From digitalisation and increasing levels of shoplifting to societal trends, change is evident on many different levels. Companies would do well to respond to this and act for the long term.” 

Three days of inspiration for fashion folk 
In the foyer, on all three days of the fair, Lena Huber will be welcoming visitors and exhibitors and sparking a fascination for plant-based textile dyeing. Fashion professionals can discover techniques for handling natural dyes in this interactive dyeing workshop staged in association with Fashion Campus 2030 and Halt.Clothing. 

Further highlights of the programme include the Community Talks with moderator Mirjam Smend (Greenstyle Munich): one of her panels concerns ideas for the circular economy (‘The second, third, fourth chance: keeping fashion and materials in circulation’), while the other looks at fashion that unites the zeitgeist and timelessness (‘Made to last: contemporary fashion with substance and attitude’). 

More and more younger brands 
The in-demand DESIGN DISCOVERIES, companies exhibiting at INNATEX for the first time, bring together some very diverse themes. mor Khadi Streetwear combines hand-spun denim from India with a casual street style. The latest line from the Berlin-based Zamt label creates minimalist unisex designs from deadstock materials. Sloppy Tunas is bringing along boardshorts made from recycled materials, while moefe has women’s office-wear in organic cotton. First-time exhibitors include Rotholz with casual coolness for women and men, and Patron Socks in fun patterns.

Source Fashion opens Tuesday, 8th July, at Olympia London, welcoming buyers, retailers, and sourcing professionals from around the world. Running until 10th July 2025, the show will host over 250 makers and manufacturers from over 22 key sourcing regions, including UK, Portugal, Morocco, India, Nepal, Italy, Hong Kong, Nigeria, Türkiye, France, and China, to name just a few.
 
With leading retailers and brands such as AllSaints, Burberry, Frasers, French Connection, Gymshark, Harrods, JD Sports, John Lewis, JoJo Maman Bebe, Killstar, Lyle & Scott, Next, Paul Smith, Primark, River Island, Selfridges, Tottenham Hotspur, Victoria Beckham, Zalando, and more, already pre-registered, Source Fashion is set to be a must-attend event for businesses looking to source responsibly and discover innovative solutions to industry challenges. 
 
Exhibitor Highlights
Returning this season, Amplebox Ltd is a Leicester-based womenswear manufacturer with over 30 years' experience delivering fast-turnaround outerwear to major UK and European retailers. Specialising in design-to-delivery solutions, the company has sharpened its focus on sustainability and ethical production.
 
Deni Mai, based in Istanbul with design offices in London and LA, brings premium denim and knitwear across womenswear, menswear, and childrenswear. Known for flexible minimums, quick lead times, and sustainable techniques like laser finishing, they offer full-service production tailored to today’s market demands.
 
Glovika, a rising Nigerian label from Abuja, showcases bold, bespoke garments that fuse contemporary style with vibrant African textiles. Their presence underscores the global momentum behind African fashion and the demand for culturally rich, responsibly made collections.
 
Exhibiting as part of the Made in Ethiopia initiative, a delegation of Ethiopian manufacturers will showcase the country’s growing strength in sustainable apparel production. Supported by the Sustainable Industrial Clusters project (backed by the British and German governments), the pavilion highlights Ethiopia’s capacity as a reliable sourcing destination, with over 100,000 workers in the sector and a focus on ethical manufacturing within its industrial parks. With duty-free access to the UK under the EBA agreement, Ethiopian producers are poised to connect with international buyers seeking scalable, responsible solutions.
 
From Insight to Impact: Exploring Trends, Innovation, and Ideas on the Source Stage
Visitors can immerse themselves in the latest trends and insights shaping responsible fashion with the Source Catwalk Show, presented three times daily. This season, the catwalk puts pre-loved garments centre stage through a new partnership with leading circular fashion platform Reskinned. Curated by the Source Fashion team, the show features womenswear looks built from exhibitor collections and pre-loved pieces, highlighting how resale, reuse, and repurposing can deliver trend-led, high-impact style. The result is a bold, visual statement that proves pre-loved fashion is not only sustainable, but undeniably stylish.
 
Source Fashion’s thought-leading content programme returns this July with a sharp focus on how to thrive in a volatile world. Running across two stages over three days, the agenda tackles the real challenges facing fashion businesses today, from supply chain resilience and ethical sourcing to pricing pressures and changing consumer behaviour. Back by popular demand, the Source Debates Stage delivers bold, provocative conversations designed to spark honest reflection and collective problem-solving. 
 
Key Speaker Highlights 

• Finding clarity from chaos – leading with purpose. Fireside chat, Lynda Petherick, Chief Information Officer, New Look and Non-Executive Director, British Fashion Council shares honest reflections on steering teams through disruption.
• Leading and collaborating through geopolitical and economic upheaval. Hash Ladha, Former CEO, Jigsaw delves into how strong internal alignment, cross-functional communication, and strategic supplier partnerships can build resilience and help businesses navigate global instability with confidence.
• The new ‘New’ - is pre-loved the future of fashion? Fashion Director and renowned sustainability advocate Bay Garnett explores whether the explosion of second-hand marketplaces and rental platforms represents a lasting shift or passing trend.
• When will consumers really pay more – are they ready? Panel with Anna Berry, Co-Founder and Director, Retail 100, Berni Yates, Knowledge Exchange Lead, CSM and Mark Sumner, Textiles Lead, WRAP
• Rethinking the rules - what would a smarter fashion system look like? Mark Sumner, Textiles Programme Lead – WRAP on Source Debates Stage to reimagine fashion’s supply chain from the ground up

From 25 to 26 June 2025, the final meeting of the ERASMUS+ project AddTex took place in Terrassa, Spain, which aimed to train workers, pupils and students in the textile industry. Over a period of three years, eleven partners from Greece, Ireland, Italy, Portugal, Romania, Sweden, Slovenia, Spain, the Czech Republic and the IVGT association for Germany were involved in the project.

With hackathons, virtual internships and 45 freely accessible MOOCs, AddTex set new standards in training and further education in the textile industry. The online platform www.addtex.eu provides professionals with the latest insights into green, digital and smart textiles – in a practical and free format. 

AddTex.eu online platform
All the project goals were achieved. The partners developed innovative formats such as summer schools, back-to-school programmes, coaching services and masterclasses. The 45 massive open online courses (MOOCs) on the AddTex.eu platform offer explanatory videos and learning materials as downloadable PDFs, each tailored to the three main target groups: technicians, engineers and managers.

A highlight of the closing event on 26 June 2025, which was jointly organised by AddTex and the EU project xBUILD-EU under the motto ‘Textile Talent & Innovation: Driving Tomorrow's Industry’, was the interactive session ‘New Generations in the Labour Market’, including the speed dating event ‘Talent meets Industry’. The event brought together companies, students and experts for an intensive exchange and networking day in Terrassa.

The AddTex.eu platform will be continuously developed over the next five years by the IVGT Technical Textiles Department together with the project partners in order to provide up-to-date content and act as a point of contact for industry and universities. In addition to instructions for creating your own MOOCs, hackathons and webinars, new soft skills and formats such as back-to-school programmes and solution-oriented consulting have been developed and implemented by project hubs.

A collaboration with the Chair of Textile Technology at Chemnitz University of Technology and the Texoversum Experts & Training Hub in Reutlingen is currently planned to supplement the project results. In addition to the three EU priority areas of ‘Green – Digital – Smart’, the focus is also on textile recycling and digitisation and AI topics in order to provide IVGT members with targeted information, training materials and network contacts.

The IVGT was most recently responsible for work package 5, ‘Qualification of the textile industry through ADDTEX hubs for green-digital-smart,’ as well as for the creation of an application manual and a business plan to ensure that the project content is updated for at least five years after the end of the project.