From the Sector

Global Fashion Summit, the international forum for sustainable fashion rooted in Denmark, will be hosted in China next month. The special Global Fashion Summit: Shanghai Gala edition will take place on 7 November 2024 during the China International Import Expo (CIIE). The event, presented by Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) and Chinamind NEXT, will bring together local and international industry stakeholders for an evening of informative discussions during a celebratory gala dinner.

Convening major decision-makers from across the world, Global Fashion Summit was first launched by GFA in Copenhagen in 2009. In the 15 years since its inception, it has become a nexus for agenda-setting discussions and presentations on the most critical environmental, social and ethical issues facing our industry and planet, all intended to spark urgent action and accelerate impact in the industry.

As the first event of its kind in China, the Global Fashion Summit: Shanghai Gala content will build on the theme of June’s Copenhagen Edition - "Unlocking The Next Level". With deadlines for sustainability targets looming, fashion finds itself at a critical juncture. Unlocking the next level of impact requires new depths of collaborative action and sharing of evidence-based progress to overcome barriers.

China plays a critical role in unlocking this transformation. China was the world’s largest exporter of readymade garments in 2023, with a 31.6 per cent market share and exports worth 165 billion USD. The soaring growth of Chinese ultra-fast fashion brands is also significantly shaping consumer purchasing practices, meanwhile, China’s luxury market has almost doubled since in 2019. Global Fashion Summit: Shanghai Gala will therefore aim to promote collaboration across the fashion industry's value chain, highlight pressing environmental and social issues, bridge differences between global markets, eliminate information gaps, and share innovative solutions.

The gala dinner will set the scene ahead of GFA’s participation in CIIE (China International Import Expo) on 8 November 2024 - a forum renowned for its focus on sustainable innovation technology. Federica Marchionni, CEO, GFA, will deliver a keynote address during the CIIE to an audience of esteemed leaders that will showcase how innovation and emerging technologies can drive sustainability in lifestyle sectors and advance the industry towards climate goals.

Jeanologia celebrates the 25^th anniversary of its pioneering laser technology at Kingpins Amsterdam, with a unique capsule collection that blends the nostalgia of traditional denim with technological advances that have revolutionized the industry. This joint celebration with Kingpins – commemorating their 10th anniversary in Amsterdam and 20th globally – highlights the global impact of laser technology through a visual installation that traces a quarter century of innovation, with a focus on the future.

The launch of Jeanologia’s first laser in 1999 marked the beginning of a new era for the textile industry, improving sustainability, quality, and efficiency. By eliminating hazardous practices like sandblasting, this disruptive technology enhanced processes and redefined the concepts of innovation and sustainability in an industry rooted in craftsmanship. Today, this technology is used in 50% of global jean production, solidifying its position as an essential tool for top manufacturers and fashion brands.

Jeanologia has successfully integrated laser technology into the DNA of denim without losing sight of its classic heritage. This balance between tradition and modernity has cemented its significant impact on the industry. “Laser has enabled more sustainable production and opened up creative possibilities that were once unimaginable,” says Fernando Cardona, Head of Jeanologia's Brainbox.

25 LASER YEARS capsule collection of ‘old new designs’
To commemorate this milestone at Kingpins Amsterdam, Jeanologia will offer an interactive visual journey through the history of their laser technology and present a specially designed capsule collection to celebrate this anniversary.

This installation will showcase a special collection that captures the magic of laser by merging the classic with the modern. Patches, embroidery, and natural wear effects evoke the nostalgia of traditional denim, while the technology plays the silent protagonist behind each finish. The garments illustrate how laser allows iconic vintage effects such as stone washing, worn-out looks, washing marks, rips, and marbling effects using tools like the “Light Ripper” or “Light Scrapper.” The collection also explores the numerous creative possibilities these tools enable, including hyper realistic laser details, denim elements and bleach-like stains. This nostalgic approach invites the reinterpretation of the past through updated historical models that encapsulate the idea of continuous evolution and improvement in laser design.

This "old new designs" capsule collection symbolizes the connection between Jeanologia's legacy and its vision of a greener, more responsible textile industry, celebrating its history while inviting both the industry and consumers to be part of a more sustainable future in denim.

As part of the 25th-anniversary celebration, Jeanologia will offer a digital version of this capsule collection, with 25 digital designs that pay homage to the evolution of laser technology and its transformative impact. Visitors can also experience the unique digital design process with eDesigner software, taking home their digital garment to produce it sustainably anywhere in the world.

Jeanologia invites brands, designers, and consumers to be part of a new era of denim, where tradition and technology merge to create a greener, more innovative, and sustainable future.

A tribute to the ‘Denim Tribe’
Jeanologia does not commemorate this anniversary alone. The collections and the accompanying narrative are a shared tribute to the global community of brands, designers, and manufacturers who have embraced laser technology and contributed to its progress. “More than a celebration for Jeanologia, this is recognition of the entire industry, the ‘denim tribe’ that has courageously and responsibly adopted this technology, advancing towards a more sustainable future in fashion. Without their collaboration, we wouldn’t have achieved this impact,” emphasizes the Head of Technological Development at Jeanologia.

Topo Athletic Adopts eVent Fabrics Plant-Positive: Starting in 2024, the Topo Athletic Terraventure 4 WP and Trailventure 2 WP will feature eVent’s sustainable plant-based BIO Footwear technology.

eVent^®️ Fabrics, a global leader in waterproof and breathable fabric technologies, is officially supplying their planet-positive eVent BIO™ Footwear waterproof/breathable laminate to Topo Athletic, leaders in sustainably-minded footwear for walking, running, and hiking.

The eVent BIO Footwear technology is currently being used in the Topo Terraventure 4 WP trail shoe and the Trailventure 2 WP hiking boot. Both shoes offer comfort, performance, and now, an eco-friendly waterproof/breathable membrane.

Designed to withstand any weather conditions, BIO Footwear is a waterproof and planet-positive laminate that combines cutting-edge technology with highly renewable plant-based materials. BIO Footwear offers good abrasion resistance, ensuring your shoes stand the test of time. From rugged outdoor adventures to everyday wear, BIO Footwear is ready to take on any challenge while keeping your feet dry, comfortable, and blister free.

The waterproof version of the lightweight, rugged, and versatile trail runner and hiker, the Terraventure 4 WP is built to take on wet conditions. The upper features an eVent® BIO footwear bootie construction to lock water out, while the tightly woven mesh provides a secure and durable fit. The 25 x22 mm platform combines moderate cushioning with a forefoot rock plate for a comfortable and protective ride. The Vibram® Megagrip outsole offers superior traction and slip resistance on all terrain, especially in wet conditions.

The Trailventure 2 WP’s mesh upper features a full eVent® BIO footwear waterproof bootie construction, while the ZipFoamTM midsole and external TPU heel counter offer comfort and security. Gaiter attachments work with Topo's Performance Gaiter to keep dirt and debris out. The Vibram® Megagrip outsole provides grip on all surfaces, while the full-length ESS rock plate offers protection and stability.

Authentico® by Schneider Group as a brand stands for a complete, transparent, verified, traceable, ethical and high-quality wool supply chain – from farm to garment. It aims to be recognised as the global brand that enables the fashion industry, together with end-consumers, to choose new levels of premium quality comprising fully traceable and responsible wool, in compliance with a carefully structured approach that verifies, traces and brands the sourcing and manufacturing processes throughout the whole supply chain. Authentico® is based on the Schneider Group global certified network.

For the second year Authentico® by Schneider Group attends the Textile Exchange Conference, that will be held on October 28-31 at Pasadena Convention Center, CA.
The Conference will be an opportunity to discover the Authentico® by Schneider Group brand story together with a selection of the first Authentico® fabric collections in partnership with Marzotto Group.

The partnership with Marzotto, launched during the July edition of Milano Unica, has the goal of guaranteeing a complete, transparent, ethical and high-quality supply chain for wool fabrics where style and quality are supported by the responsible production and innovation of two consolidated groups that combine a long tradition of savoir faire with the name “Marzotto” and the know-how of the Schneider Group and its brand Authentico® with the increasingly pressing need to guarantee traceability and ethics along the entire supply chain, in order to add value to value.

The result of Marzotto Group joining Authentico® was the beginning of a journey for various wool mills in the group like Fratelli Tallia di Delfino, Guabello|1815, Marzotto Fabrics, Marlane and the women’s divisions Opera Piemontese and Estethia G. B. Conte, which began during Milano Unica and continues at the Textile Exchange Conference.

With 42 exhibiting member companies, ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024 is once again marked by a strong presence of VDMA companies. They cover nearly all different machinery chapters with a focus on spinning and man-made fibers, nonwovens, weaving, braiding, knitting & warp knitting, finishing & dyeing as well as technologies for textile recycling and processing of recycled material.
In total, the German participation at the fair is the largest from outside China.

The VDMA team in Shanghai is staffed again with colleagues from the VDMA headquarters in Germany as well as from VDMA China. With these joined forces, the team is well prepared to support the exhibiting member companies on site.

Dr. Harald Weber, Managing Director VDMA Textile Machinery Association, summarised: “Although facing a difficult market situation, this year’s ITMA ASIA is an essential showcase for the member companies of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association. There is definitely no shortage of chances and opportunities in China and other Asian markets. The exhibiting members will demonstrate their smart technologies that can pave the way to a green textile production and are looking forward to welcoming numerous visitors from various countries to their booths in Shanghai.”

China is aiming at a green and low CO₂ development of its textile industry. At a press conference on the first day of ITMA ASIA + CITME, Georg Stausberg, member of the board of VDMA Textile Machinery and CEO of the Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division said: “Topics, such as energy efficiency and the careful use of resources have become increasingly important for Asian customers in recent years, not least due to stricter legal framework conditions. VDMA members and their technologies are the right partners on the road to a greener and low CO₂ textile production.”
 
Export performance
Already in 2023, the global textile machinery exports decreased by 18.6 % compared to 2022. This was a challenge all major textile machinery producing countries had to face. However, the German exports remained relatively strong and only declined by 3.4 % in 2023. 2024 did not see a change in the global textile industry and thus the German exports have now also dropped significantly. Between January and July 2024, German exports of textile machinery and accessories summed up to 1.2 billion € (2023: 1.6 billion €). The shipping to almost all major markets decreased between January and July: China: 242 million € (2023: 384 million €), Turkey: 140 million € (2023: 180 million €), USA: 118 million € (2023: 152 million €), India: 100 million € (2023: 153 million €).

Sales opportunities in Asia
An economic survey of VDMA in September, to which 20 textile machinery companies replied, reflects the global challenging situation. Around 36 % assessed their current business situation as satisfactory, 54 % said it was bad. Only very few companies expect the global situation to improve in the next six months.

However, looking at the sales opportunities by regions/countries in Asia, most of the responding companies expect a better business situation in the Asian markets except China in six months. The business situation is expected to be on a satisfactory level then. With regard to this, a presence at ITMA ASIA in Shanghai and next year in Singapore is important for VDMA members to continuously show their innovations and to keep contact with the customers in Asia.

Re-Matters Textile Recycling Solutions is an innovative start-up promoting circular value streams within the textile industry. The company announced a strategic partnership with COLOURizd, a pioneer in sustainable textile coloration technology.
 
This collaboration aims to support the transformation of the industry by combining COLOURizd' cutting-edge dyeing technology with Re-Matters' circular expertise to drive more sustainable practices throughout the supply chain.
 
Established in 2023, Re-Matters was created in response to mounting global environmental concerns and the rising need for sustainable textile solutions. Leveraging over 40 years of experience from their parent company, Ereks Blue Matters, Re-Matters offers engineering and consultancy services to the textile supply chain in assisting organizations in minimizing their environmental footprint through tailored solutions that emphasize reduction, reuse, recycling, and regeneration.
 
COLOURizd' innovative QuantumCOLOUR technology enables the coloring of recycled materials without the need for bleaching or color removal. This technology preserves the integrity of the fibers and enhances yarn properties, such as strength, reduced pilling, and decreased hairiness. The process uses just 1 liter of water per kilogram of yarn and produces zero wastewater, making it an ideal solution for companies looking to improve their sustainability profile.
 
Re-Matters and COLOURizd will exhibit at the upcoming Textile Exchange Conference in Pasadena, CA, USA, from October 28 to 31, 2024.
 
This year's theme, The Case for Change, will explore how integrating best practices for climate and nature into business operations can build resilience for the future. Both companies will showcase their innovative solutions and discuss their collaborative efforts to promote a more sustainable textile industry.

The Bangladesh Climate Action Forum 2024 was held at the Radisson Blu Water Garden Hotel on 10^th October 2024. Over 450 delegates from across the globe came together to foster dialogue, collaboration, and actionable strategies to advance Bangladesh's sustainability goals.
The Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE) organized the forum as a pivotal platform uniting industry leaders, government officials, climate advocates, innovators, brands, development organizations, policymakers, and academics.

The theme of this year's Bangladesh Fashion: Driving Collective Climate Action highlighted the urgent need for sustainability within the fashion and apparel sector. The forum was significant as a catalyst for dialogue and collaboration among various stakeholders. Enhancing climate leadership and technical skills makes the forum crucial in propelling the nation toward a sustainable and resilient future.

In his opening remarks, Mostafiz Uddin, Founder & CEO of Bangladesh Apparel Exchange, said:
“You care about the planet, you care about the country, and that is why all of you are here today. All of you are my inspiration. Climate action is no more a burden. For entrepreneurs, it's a business opportunity.”
“This is how I think. For all of you, you all love Bangladesh and want to eliminate poverty and disasters. Cheap labor is no longer a competitive advantage for Bangladesh. If we as entrepreneurs do not achieve the target set by our clients, we will not be able to succeed. To achieve the targets, the manufacturers need more shared responsibility, collaboration, and support.”

This year’s event featured keynote addresses, panel discussions, presentations, and workshops, where more than about 42 national and international experts shared insights on building a climate-resilient and carbon-neutral future through collaboration and innovation and the launch of two significant initiatives occurred during the event: the Soldiered 'Better Mills Initiative' and the OnetrueSOLar Fund. In addition, key presentations focused on Solar Rooftop System Optimization, Thermal Energy System Optimization, and Clean by Design: Lessons from Bangladesh and Impact. dedicated to enhancing sustainable practices in Bangladesh. Key partners supported the forum included the Apparel Impact Institute, Cascale, the European Union, GIZ, H&M, the Embassy of the Netherlands in Bangladesh, PDS Limited, and Target.

The event unites many contributors such as the Ministry of Foreign Affairs; Ministry of Power, Energy, and Mineral Resources; Ministry of Environment, Forest and Climate Change; the Bangladesh Power Management Institute (BPMI), the Embassy of Denmark in Bangladesh, the Embassy of France in Bangladesh, the Embassy of Sweden in Bangladesh, ILO, Laudes Foundation, Oxfam in Bangladesh USAID Bangladesh.

Additionally, an engineering workshop showcased the expertise of industry-leading organizations, including Armstrong Fluid Technology, Forbes Marshall, Grant Thornton Bharat LLP, Illukkumbura Industrial Automation (Pvt) Ltd., and Jinko Solar. Over 300 engineers from apparel manufacturing units participated, gaining practical strategies to drive sustainability and decarbonization efforts within their organizations.

Polyester has been the cornerstone of the textile printing industry for decades. Its compatibility with the digital sublimation process—a cost-effective, simple technology—has driven exponential growth in polyester printing. However, the very characteristics that make polyester well suited for sublimation printing render this printing technique unsuitable for other materials, such as cotton and some blended fibres, leaving a significant gap in the market.

This gap was, until recently, partially filled by direct-to-textile printing. However, this method requires substantial initial investments in equipment and heavily relies on the time- and resource-consuming pre- and post-processing of fabrics to ensure colourfastness, colour accuracy, and compatibility with different substrates. Consequently, a need arose for a more sustainable and cost-effective solution that could cater to a wider range of textiles.

In response to this demand, Mimaki spent six years developing a breakthrough technology, TRAPIS, a simple two-step textile transfer printing solution, consisting of only an inkjet printer and a high-pressure calender. The design of choice is printed by the inkjet printer onto the company’s groundbreaking Texcol® pigment ink transfer paper. This is then transferred to the application via the calender.

Entirely removing the treatment stages means that printing on non-polyester materials has gone from an expensive and time-consuming task to one that is simple, cost-efficient and more sustainable.

Ideal for home textiles and soft signage which often require vibrant colours but varied materials, this technology gives printers the ability to print on a wide variety of materials, including natural fibres like cotton and silk without losing stretchability or colourfastness. All this can be done with just one type of ink, making the process flexible and adaptable to customer demands.  

The pre-treatment and washing of the fabric is often needed in digital dye printing, producing a significant amount of wastewater in the process. TRAPIS eliminates those stages altogether and is almost entirely waterless, saving around 14.5 litres per square metre of water, an almost 90% decrease in comparison to digital dye printing .

Additionally, this eliminates the need for wastewater treatment facilities, which can be both expensive and constrictive when it comes to where the solution is installed.

On the occasion of World Cotton Day 2024, Cotonea presented comprehensive CO2 and energy analyses of a total of 460 fabrics for the first time. Unlike conventional life cycle assessments, the brand analyzes its entire value chain from the cotton plant to the finished fabric and measures energy consumption and associated CO₂ emissions in detail. This enables comprehensive transparency and creates comparability.

“Our analyses and the consistent use of renewable energies along the entire supply chain show that some of our fabrics still act as CO2 sinks even after finishing. This is a clear signal of our commitment to environmental protection,” says Roland Stelzer, Managing Director of the long-established company Elmer & Zweifel and founder of the Cotonea brand.

Precise data
Cotonea examined the CO₂ and energy footprint for a total of 460 different fabrics so precisely that even differences in colors, such as yellow or black, could be determined exactly. Only the energy consumption for the yarn dyeing required for a few fabrics and means of transportation such as trucks, ships and trains as well as the assessment of primary energy sources are based on average values. “Instead of blanket CO₂ footprints or LCAs, we at Cotonea document exactly how our fabrics are manufactured and how much CO₂ and energy are consumed in the individual production stages,” emphasizes Stelzer.

Some fabrics act as CO₂ absorbers even after finishing. This is partly due to the natural CO2-binding properties of cotton fibers in organic cultivation and partly due to the use of hydropower and solar systems in the production facilities.

Advanced technology for comprehensive sustainability
For the analysis, Cotonea, with the support of the Industrieverband Veredelung - Garne - Gewebe - Technische Textilien e.V. (IVGT), used the “Umberto” life cycle assessment software, in which all relevant steps of the production process have been modeled and mapped. The calculations comply with ISO standards 14040 and 14044 for life cycle analysis (LCA). Since the end of 2012, Cotonea has provided items with a product passport that shows the individual production steps. In 2020, the organic cotton brand contributed its supply chain expertise to the “Textile Trust” blockchain project by IBM and Kaya & Kato, which was supported by the German Federal Ministry for Economic Cooperation and Development.

eVent^®️ Fabrics, a global leader in waterproof and breathable laminates, announced the hiring of three key team members to assist with growing demand for the brand’s expanding line of performance laminates and recent expansion into the South Korean market. Founded in 1999, the company impressed the industry with the first air-permeable 100% waterproof membrane and continues to innovate with sustainable, high-performance textiles. eVent is globally recognized for its breathable waterproof solutions and commitment to reliable, high-performance laminates.

Recent hires include Bartosz Lassak to the US sales team and Xie Yi to engineer the next generation of eVent textiles. For the recent expansion into Korea, Terry Kim will assist as eVent’s Korean Market Consultant.

eVent’s recent expansion into the Korean market includes a new strategic partnership with GEO International Co., LTD, a leading Korean company in the textile industry. This collaboration will introduce eVent’s high-performance waterproof breathable laminate solutions for apparel, footwear, and accessories to the Korean market, catering to the increasing demand for premium outdoor and performance apparel.

eVent’s newest team members include:

Bartosz Lassak – Senior Sales Manager
Based in Washington D.C., Bartosz is a Senior Sales Manager for the Eastern U.S. region and will help expand eVent’s sales footprint as new customers are added to the eVent portfolio. Bartosz brings 20 years of global industry experience and has a deep knowledge of outerwear materials, end use applications, and component brand sales. Most recently, Bartosz was a Territory Sales and Marketing Manager for Primaloft, managing ingredient brand distribution in the UK, Germany, Eastern Europe, Russia, Turkey, and North America.
 
Xie Yi – Textile Engineer
Having recently graduated with a double Master’s Degree in Textile Materials and Product Design from the highly regarded Donghua University, Xie joins the eVent team full time as a Textile Engineer. Xie will be integral as eVent continues to enhance product strategy and new product introductions. Throughout her academic career, Xie worked as a Production Assistant for Oya Jacquard Belt limited and a Research and Development Assistant at Atelier LUMA.

Terry Kim – Senior Consultant in Korea
Terry will support the expansion of eVent’s global footprint into Korean markets and assist with marketing efforts in the Korean market as well. Terry has significant experience in the industry including 20 years working in roles such as Sales Director and New Business Development Director in his time at Gore-Tex. In his most recent role, Terry was the Managing Director of Fabric Division for Gore-Tex.