From the Sector

Substituting dry curing for traditional water-based techniques, these new textile production solutions greatly reduce water-borne pollution: Green Theme Technologies (GTT), creators of the waterless and PFAS-free EMPEL® textile finishing platform, has teamed up with Golden Long John to promote the next generation of cleaner and more efficient fabric dye and finishing processes.

The textile manufacturing industry generates trillions of gallons of wastewater each year. Traditional textile dyeing and finishing rinses chemical dyes and water repellency onto fabrics. Post-production toxic water is then dumped into rivers and oceans.

Last year, Golden Long John, a major textile supplier of the global footwear industry, introduced GTT’s EMPEL® finishing platform in their Vietnam factories. Their partnership has led to the combination of their two industry leading technologies, the EMPEL® high performance water repellent finish and Golden Long John’s direct dye process.

“We believe, Cleaner IS Better and this is a big step forward for the fashion and textile industries,” said Martin Flora, President of GTT Business Development. “Similar to GTT’s EMPEL® application, Golden Long John applies dye chemistry directly onto fabrics. Better performance with much less pollution is our vision for the future.”

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) and authorities from Denmark, Germany, the Netherlands, Norway and Sweden have released a progress update on the process to restrict per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) in Europe.

The five authorities (Dossier Submitters) and ECHA’s scientific committees for Risk Assessment (RAC) and for Socio-Economic Analysis (SEAC) continue to consider more than 5,600 scientific and technical comments received from third parties during the consultation in 2023.

This consultation input helps the Dossier Submitters to progressively update and improve the information on PFAS. It has also helped identify uses that were not specifically named in the initial proposal, and these are being incorporated into existing sector assessments or grouped into new sectors as needed. Examples include sealing applications, technical textiles, printing applications and other medical applications, such as packaging and excipients for pharmaceuticals.

Alternative restriction options, besides a full ban or a ban with time-limited derogations, are also being considered. An alternative option could, for example, involve conditions allowing the continued manufacture, placing on the market or use of PFAS instead of a ban. This consideration is particularly relevant for uses and sectors where evidence suggests that a ban could lead to disproportionate socio-economic impacts.

These alternative options are being considered for uses including, but not limited to:

• batteries;
• fuel cells; and
• electrolysers.

The proportionality of each alternative option will be evaluated and compared to the initial two restriction options of a full ban or a ban with time-limited derogations.
All this updated information is feeding into ECHA committees’ ongoing evaluation of the proposal.

The textile industry faces increased scrutiny on its substantial amounts of waste generated each year. This presents a challenge for the industry, but also a massive opportunity for circularity and transparency; with efforts underway to track, reduce, and utilise waste towards better end-of-life practices.

Waste reflects a burden on resources, inefficient processes, and unmanaged emissions, highlighting the need for action. Rising regulations are also inciting action from the industry, such as recyclers using textile waste as feedstock to displace virgin fibre production. However, information on textile waste is currently fragmented, with data scattered across a multitude of organisations and platforms. This lack of centralised knowledge and standardised data hampers the industry’s ability to address and capitalise on textile waste.

To tackle this issue, Fashion for Good, with catalytic funding from Laudes Foundation and IDH, has partnered with Reverse Resources, Global Fashion Agenda, Circle Economy, and Accelerating Circularity – who actively address many facets of textile waste and leverage each other's diverse skill sets and wealth of information to create a tool consolidating the outcomes of individual research. This tool provides an overview of data points on waste quantities, types, compositions, and other insights, as well as links to the original studies. With information on waste attributes, data collection methodologies, organisations involved, and a lens on upcoming studies for a region, the tool empowers users of textile waste, as well as stakeholders looking to further the industry’s knowledge base.

With a lens on global hotspots of textile waste, as well as links to established resources for each region, strategies aimed at valorising waste become more attainable. For instance, recyclers can strategise their feedstock sourcing by gaining insights into waste streams and their specific characteristics. Governments can utilise this data to develop informed policies and regulations that encourage sustainable waste management practices. Fostering connections between stakeholders, both local and international, can help address operational challenges towards the advancement of circularity.

This initiative marks a significant step towards building a more transparent, collaborative, and circular fashion industry. By uniting key players from across the ecosystem, it is not only addressing the pressing issue of textile waste but also unlocking its potential as a resource. As the platform continues to grow, incorporating more data and insights from other organisations working on assessing waste in newer regions and different waste categories, the aim is to provide deeper clarity and drive meaningful change. Together, the way can be paved for a fashion industry that values sustainability, reduces waste, and contributes to a healthier planet for future generations.

Global Fashion Agenda (GFA) has officially announced the theme for Global Fashion Summit: Copenhagen Edition 2025: ‘Barriers and Bridges’. Under the patronage of Her Majesty the Queen of Denmark, the leading forum for sustainability in fashion will take place 3-5 June 2025. The Summit will return to the Copenhagen Concert Hall, where stimulative content will spotlight how today’s challenges can be embraced as catalysts for creative and sustainable growth. Registration is now open.

The fashion industry is facing immense pressure to adapt and innovate while complying with an increasingly complex regulatory environment. By convening core stakeholders across the fashion ecosystem and parallel industries, Global Fashion Summit will highlight the dualities of this moment, exploring how challenging new barriers can be leveraged as bridges for tangible change. With legislation accelerating, the boundaries between voluntary and mandatory efforts are blurring, demanding both courage and capital.

Through the lens of collective action, the Summit will tackle crucial topics encompassing social and environmental challenges, revealing the ways in which both barriers and bridges are defining fashion’s approach to sustainability today. The theme will underlie all elements of the Summit across its three stages. Speakers will showcase pathways to balance competing demands: climate leadership with business resilience, regulatory compliance with radical innovation, and near-term possibilities with long-term vision.

The Innovation Forum at the Summit will showcase a curated selection of solutions across the entire value chain, from pioneering materials to advanced end-of-use processes. Summit attendees can connect with exhibiting solution providers and participate in the Innovation Forum's Matchmaking Programme, which facilitates tailored, one-on-one meetings between solution providers and Summit attendees, helping them advance their sustainability strategies through targeted collaborations.

Federica Marchionni, CEO, Global Fashion Agenda, says: “Fashion is one of the world’s most dynamic and influential industries, with the power to drive change globally. Climate adaptation is now as crucial as mitigation. Transformation requires more than incremental change; it demands bold leadership, courageous investment, and the drive to reimagine business models. In this era of transformation, Global Fashion Summit is critical to enabling collaboration and guiding implementation.”

EDANA, the global association for the nonwovens and related industries, concluded its annual Sustainability Forum at the KBR Royal Library of Belgium in Brussels. This year's forum, themed “Building a Sustainable Future Together,” featured a series of keynote addresses, panel discussions, and collaborative sessions focused on environmental responsibility, corporate social responsibility, and circular economy innovations within the nonwovens sector. With an agenda that bridged policy and practice, the Forum highlighted the latest advancements and strategies aimed at tackling climate change, reducing waste, and enhancing sustainability practices.

Keynote Highlights
The forum featured two keynote speakers: Ana Rovzar, Founder of Polygon AR, opened the Forum with a keynote on the accelerating transition to clean energy. In her speech, she discussed the shift from conventional energy investments to renewables, noting a 50% growth in renewables in 2023 alone. “It is accelerating much faster than people think” she remarked, emphasizing that “real progress requires a united front from governments, businesses, and communities to remove regulatory and technological barriers”.

In another keynote, sustainability expert Mike Barry, formerly of Marks & Spencer, stressed the importance of aligning corporate strategy with sustainability. “Citizens see climate change as a top priority, and companies must act boldly to reduce emissions, especially Scope 3”, he said. “Sustainability is now a vital part of brand identity, and consumers expect more transparency and commitment than ever”.

Innovative Industry Perspectives and EU Policy Impacts
Brieuc Lits, Public Affairs Director at EDANA, examined the potential effects of the EU Green Deal on the nonwovens industry. “The EU’s shift towards balancing sustainability with competitiveness will shape not only policy but the very framework within which we operate”, he noted, emphasizing that the sector must adapt to stay competitive and aligned with regulatory expectations.

Lastly, Paolo Haeusermann, Senior Brand Director and Europe Sustainability Leader at Procter & Gamble, shared insights on advancing sustainability in absorbent hygiene products and emphasized the importance of these items. “We are talking about essential products in people’s lives”, he remarked.

Corporate and Product Sustainability: A Deep Dive
Several industry leaders shared insights on integrating sustainability at every level of business. Carsten Ruff from Nitto Advanced Film Solutions discussed the challenges and strategies of embedding sustainability in corporate culture, particularly in a multinational setting. “Sustainability is not a contradiction to industrial applications; it’s a powerful driver of innovation”, he observed.

Martijn Gipmans from Sphera Solutions highlighted the business value of transparency and life-cycle assessments (LCA). “LCA and transparent ESG reporting can catalyse both business growth and environmental progress”, he explained, stressing the importance of integrated sustainability assessments to reduce the carbon footprint of entire product portfolios.

Christophe Morel-Fourrier, Sustainability Leader for Hygiene, Packaging, and Converting Adhesives at Bostik, introduced the Archimedes tool as a strategic asset for Portfolio Sustainability Assessment. “Archimedes allows us to make transparent, informed decisions that align with our long-term sustainability goals”, he explained. He highlighted that this tool helps companies evaluate the sustainability of their product portfolios, empowering them to make impactful choices that support environmental goals.

The Path Forward: Advancing Circularity and Green Innovation
One of the most discussed topics was the industry's transition toward a circular economy. Albert Hammerschmied from Freudenberg Performance Materials highlighted the importance of post-industrial waste in achieving circularity, particularly in the automotive sector. “The potential for nonwovens in the automotive circular economy is vast, but requires industry-wide collaboration”, he commented.

In a session addressing the future of sustainable practices in building insulation, Alexandre Butté of ANDRITZ Laroche emphasized the importance of sustainable materials and collaboration among stakeholders. “The building industry faces unique sustainability challenges, but with innovation and eco-friendly materials, we can bridge the gap between goals and achievable practices”, he said.

Building a Sustainable Health Sector
Danielle van Horzen, Global Marketing Manager for Hygiene and Healthcare at SABIC, discussed advanced recycling solutions in the healthcare sector. Addressing the challenges of medical waste recycling, she stated, “A significant amount of medical waste is not contaminated, offering us opportunities to create circularity in healthcare.” She pointed to the potential for advanced chemical recycling to enable circular models, helping to tackle the pressing issue of sustainable medical waste management.

The day concluded with a session on the circular potential within healthcare. Kristien Depraetere, Sustainability Coordinator at UZ Leuven, outlined sustainable practices in hospitals, from waste reduction to advanced recycling in medical waste. “Healthcare can lead by example in the transition to circularity, yet we need practical and legislative support to address unique industry challenges”.

Visit to the European Commission
The third day of EDANA’s Sustainability Forum 2024 concluded with an insightful visit to the European Commission, offering attendees a unique opportunity to engage directly with policymakers and gain firsthand insights into the EU's sustainability agenda. Hosted at the Charlemagne Building, discussions centered on pivotal elements of the EU Green Deal, including the establishment of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), the scope and implementation of the Single-Use Plastics Directive (SUPD), and the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation.

Featuring presentations from prominent EU officials like Vicenzo Gente and Werner Bosmans, attendees delved into how these regulations are shaping sustainability strategies across industries. Bridging policy and practice emerged as essential, reinforcing the forum’s dedication to aligning industry actions with current EU regulatory frameworks. The session offered a strong conclusion to the event, reinforcing a shared commitment to a sustainable future in collaboration with EU leaders and regulatory bodies.

The Candidate List of substances of very high concern (SVHC) now contains 242 entries for chemicals that can harm people or the environment. Companies are responsible for managing the risks of these chemicals and giving customers and consumers information on their safe use.

ECHA’s Member State Committee confirmed the addition of triphenyl phosphate to the list in its October meeting. The substance has endocrine disrupting properties and is used as a flame retardant and as a plasticiser. The committee’s discussion on including the substance was originally foreseen for June but delayed, exceptionally, due to substantial new information becoming available on its properties.

Entry added to the Candidate List on 7 November 2024:

The list now contains 242 entries – some are groups of chemicals, so the overall number of impacted chemicals is higher.

This substance may be placed on the Authorisation List in the future. If a substance is on this list, companies cannot use it unless they apply for authorisation and the European Commission authorises its continued use.

 
Consequences of inclusion on the Candidate List
 
Under REACH, companies have legal obligations when their substance is included – either on its own, in mixtures or in articles – in the Candidate List.
 
If an article contains a Candidate List substance above a concentration of 0.1 % (weight by weight), suppliers have to give their customers and consumers information on how to use it safely. Consumers have the right to ask suppliers if the products they buy contain substances of very high concern.
 
Importers and producers of articles have to notify ECHA if their article contains a Candidate List substance within six months from the date it has been included in the list (07 November 2024).
 
EU and EEA suppliers of substances on the Candidate List, supplied either on their own or in mixtures, have to update the safety data sheet they provide to their customers.
 
Under the Waste Framework Directive, companies also must notify ECHA if the articles they produce contain substances of very high concern in a concentration above 0.1 % (weight by weight). This notification is published in ECHA’s database of substances of concern in products (SCIP).

For the first time, a piece of clothing is made entirely from textile waste – no bottles, no packaging, no virgin plastic. 100% biorecycled fibers. By developing and industrializing CARBIOS’ enzymatic depolymerization technology to achieve 100% “fiber-to-fiber” recycling, the consortium collectively advances the textile industry's shift towards a circular economy.

CARBIOS, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, and its “fiber-to-fiber” consortium partners On, Patagonia, PUMA, Salomon, and PVH Corp., parent company of Calvin Klein, unveil the world’s first enzymatically recycled polyester garment made from 100% textile waste using CARBIOS’ pioneering biorecycling technology.

This technological feat contributes to advancing textile circularity when, today, the majority of recycled polyester is made from PET bottles, and only 1% of fibers are recycled into new fibers.  The collective achievement marks an important milestone for the consortium’s ultimate aim of demonstrating fiber-to-fiber closed loop using CARBIOS’ biorecycling process at an industrial scale, and marks an important step forward for the textile industry’s shift towards a circular economy.

A plain, white T-shirt was a deliberate choice to showcase the technological achievement that made its production possible from mixed and colored textile waste.  By using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology, polyester is broken down using enzymes into its fundamental building blocks which are reformed to produce biorecycled polyester whose quality is on par with oil-based virgin polyester.  Petroleum can now be replaced by textile waste as a raw material to produce polyester textiles, that will in turn become raw materials again, thus fueling a circular economy, with the added benefit of a lower carbon footprint and avoidance of landfill or incineration.

The t-shirt’s production began with all consortium members (On, Patagonia, PUMA, PVH Corp. and Salomon) supplying rolls and production cutting scraps to CARBIOS in Clermont-Ferrand, France.  This textile waste consisted of some mixed blends with cotton or elastane, as well as various treatments (such as durable water repellent) and dyes which render them complex to recycle using conventional methods. The collected waste was deconstructed into its original monomers, PTA and MEG, using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology at its pilot facility. The resulting monomers were then repolymerized, spun into yarn and woven into new fabric by external partners, demonstrating the seamless integration into existing manufacturing processes.  The resulting sports t-shirt made from 100% textile waste meets the quality standards and sustainability objectives of the apparel brands present in the “fiber-to-fiber” consortium.

CARBIOS’ demonstration plant in Clermont-Ferrand, France, has been up and running since 2021, and its first commercial plant, the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant, is currently under construction in Longlaville, France.  In addition, CARBIOS recently announced several letters of intent with PET producers in Asia and Europe, confirming global interest in its biorecycling technology and advancing the international roll-out of its licensing model.

Europe’s textile sorting and recycling industry is currently experiencing an unprecedented crisis, even more significant than during the COVID-19 pandemic. The sector is under immense pressure due to several global disruptions, including the war in Ukraine, logistical challenges in Africa, and the rise of ultra-fast fashion.

As a result, there is an oversupply of used textiles and a sharp decline in demand from traditional export markets. The trade in used textiles between the EU and non-EU decreased from 464,993 tonnes in 2022 to 430,185 tonnes in 2023. Looking at Germany alone, the exports of used textiles to Ghana (one of Europe’s key export markets) have decreased from 7911.2 tonnes in 2020 to 4532.9 tonnes in 2023. Additionally, demand for recycled materials remains low: recycled cotton had an estimated production volume of 319 000 tonnes in 2023 (compared to 24.4 million tonnes of virgin cotton) globally.

Consequently, prices for second-hand textiles have plummeted, while the costs of collection, sorting, and recycling have skyrocketed. Since spring 2024, the prices for sorted second-hand garments no longer cover processing costs, leading to major cash flow problems for sorting operators. Warehouses are becoming overwhelmed, increasing the risk of textile waste being incinerated.

In a joint statement EuRIC Textiles and Municipal Waste Europe expressed their concerns about the development of Europe’s textiles sorting and recycling sector. They have clearly specified what support they expect from Brussel:

“We call on the EU to encourage Member States to lower VAT on textile repair, reuse, and recycling activities, within the existing VAT Directive framework, and explore the possibility of introducing a tax on new, petroleum-based materials. Such measures, if adopted at national levels, would incentivise the use of recycled materials and reduce the environmental impact of virgin textile production.

This situation is likely to raise processing costs for municipalities, potentially resulting in higher waste disposal fees for residents, with the fear that the textiles will be thrown in the residual waste instead. Downstream players in the recycling chain, such as tearing and spinning mills, are also feeling the strain, leading to significant staff cuts.

To avert widespread bankruptcies, immediate financial and legislative support is essential. Short-term financial incentives for EU companies that contribute significantly to a sustainable circular textile chain are needed to safeguard the industry from collapsing. Investment in recycling technologies and infrastructure, alongside targeted support for municipalities dealing with textile waste stagnation, is crucial. We urge the EU to facilitate public-private partnerships to foster innovation in textile recycling and to scale up recycling technologies. This will help increase Europe’s capacity to process textile waste sustainably and efficiently. A swift revision of the Waste Framework Directive (WFD) and rapid implementation of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes are also imperative.

In the mid-term, efforts should focus on making the textiles reuse and recycling sector competitive, in line with Commission President Ursula Von der Leyen’s ambition for a competitive and strong circular economy (through a future Clean Industrial Deal and Circular Economy Act). To reach this ambition, the EU needs to increase demand for recycled textiles, expand recycling capacity, and promote the use of sustainable materials through upcoming ecodesign requirements. We call for the mandatory inclusion of a percentage of recycled textile content (most preferably from post-consumer textiles) in all new textile products placed on the EU market, with a clear trajectory for increasing this percentage over the coming years. Without urgent action, Europe risks undermining its climate goals and jeopardising the future of its textile sorting and recycling industry.”

The Integrated Regulatory Strategy (IRS) has increased the knowledge on chemicals and sped up identification of substances for which regulatory risk management actions are required. Refocussed IRS 2024-2028 will continue moving substances to risk management.

ECHA’s Integrated Regulatory Strategy aimed to speed up data generation, identification of groups of substances of concern, and regulatory action. It did so by integrating different regulatory processes into one approach to manage chemical risks effectively and efficiently. The strategy also encouraged collaboration between ECHA, Member States authorities and the European Commission.

The original goal of the IRS was achieved: to clarify which REACH registered substances are a high priority for regulatory risk management or data generation, and which are currently a low priority for further regulatory action.

ECHA’s sixth and final report of its Integrated Regulatory Strategy 2019-2023 shows that it achieved its goal of screening high production volume chemicals, manufactured or imported above 100 tonnes per year, that were on the European markets in 2018.

Since 2019, ECHA has grouped and screened 6 000 substances, and addressed almost all of the 4 100 high production volume chemicals. Around 1 900 of substances screened in ECHA’s assessments of regulatory needs may potentially require regulatory risk management, mostly harmonised classification and labelling (CLH) or restriction under REACH. For more than two thirds of those, further data is needed first to confirm the relevant hazards. Around 60 % of all substances screened did not require further action.

Several substance groups, identified as requiring regulatory risk management, have been included in the EU’s Restrictions Roadmap, for example bisphenols, ortho-phthalates, flame retardants, hydrocarbyl siloxanes and hydrocarbylphenols.

Ofelia Bercaru, ECHA’s Director of Prioritisation and Integration, said:
“The strategy has significantly contributed to the EU ambition towards reaching the United Nations’ 2030 Sustainable Development Goals concerning chemicals. Over the next four years, we will continue the coordinated approach towards prioritising substances for risk management, whilst maintaining our good knowledge on ECHA’s chemical database, enhancing transparency with authorities and stakeholders, and exploring synergies with ECHA’s new tasks.

Next steps
The reviewed IRS for 2024-2028 will continue to improve the protection of human health and the environment from risks posed by hazardous chemicals. ECHA, the European Commission and Member States’ authorities will focus on agreeing more swiftly the necessary risk management measures for the identified substances of concern.

The future prioritisation of authorities’ activities will focus, for example, on the one substance one assessment principle. ECHA will integrate its new tasks to this approach in coming years.

Maintaining a focus on innovation despite the uncertainties that characterize the current international scenario was emphasized during the General Assembly of ACIMIT, the Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association, held in Milan on July 9. ACIMIT president, Marco Salvadè, showcased the data of the Italian textile machinery industry. In 2023, production decreased by 16%, settling at a value of 2.3 billion euros, as did exports, which also fell by 16% (2 billion euros).

China, Turkey, India, and the United States remain the main destinations for Italian textile machinery manufacturers. In 2023, demand for machinery in these markets was weak, but some positive signals emerged in the first quarter of the current year, especially from the Chinese market and again from Egypt, Pakistan, Brazil, and Japan. “2024 will still be a year characterized by many uncertainties,” commented Salvadè, “mainly due to the uncertainty of the geopolitical situation and fluctuations in final demand”.

In an especially difficult international scenario and with a still sluggish market, the Italian textile machinery sector remains a leader alongside a few other Countries, such as China, Germany and Japan. Accelerating innovation remains crucial, particularly to meet the challenges that await Italian manufacturers in supporting textile companies on their sustainable transition journey.

To highlight the opportunities that the European green transition opens up for technology suppliers, the public section of the ACIMIT General Assembly addressed a very current issue: textile recycling. The EU’s legislative guidelines aim to accelerate the green and circular transition of the textile sector with various actions: from ecodesign to EPR, from waste export regulation to green claims. Meanwhile, there is a growing demand for recycled textile fibers driven by the sustainable policies of brands that should not be underestimated.