From the Sector

Haelixa, a leader in textile traceability solutions, has appointed Marwa Zamaray, a recognised advocate for ESG and European Climate Pact Ambassador, to its Advisory Board. With extensive experience in supply chain due diligence and sustainability regulations, Zamaray will support Haelixa’s mission to enhance transparency and mitigate risks in global supply chains.

Marwa Zamaray brings a wealth of experience in addressing the traceability challenges of textile brands. Throughout her career, she has worked for leading fashion brands such as Tommy Hilfiger (PVH) and Zara (Inditex), as well as value chain partners and solution providers across the industry. Her deep understanding of brand requirements and supply chain complexities positions her as an ideal fit for Haelixa.

Marwa Zamaray is a recognised ESG advocate and European Climate Pact Ambassador with expertise in supply chain traceability, ESG compliance, and sustainable business strategies. She serves as Interim Marketing Director at TextileGenesis, leading efforts to revolutionise supply chain transparency through SaaS traceability platforms. As a European Climate Pact Ambassador, she is a frequent keynote speaker and industry moderator, advocating for climate action and responsible sourcing. With a background in B2B marketing, business development, and strategy, Marwa specialises in helping organisations strengthen sustainability initiatives, improve traceability, and drive impactful market transformation.

A new technique could create waterproof coatings for clothes out of discarded textiles – far safer for humans and the environment than current coatings, which are typically made with harsh chemicals and carcinogens.

A Cornell research group led by Juan Hinestroza, the Rebecca Q Morgan ’60 Professor of Fiber Science and Apparel Design in the College of Human Ecology (CHE), developed the low-temperature technique for synthesis of superhydrophobic, or waterproof, coatings.

“If we can save one piece of clothing from going into a landfill, then that will be success,” said Hinestroza, noting that Americans throw away anywhere from 80 to 100 pounds of clothing per person annually.

Droplets of (left-to-right) soda, water, orange juice, sports drink and milk are shown on a piece fabric with (top) and without (bottom) a UiO-66 metal-organic framework superhydrophobic coating, developed in the lab of Juan Hinestroza of the College of Human Ecology.

The metal-organic framework (MOF) used in the group’s coating can be synthesized at room temperature, using more environmentally friendly solvents (water and ethanol) and can be achieved without separation or purification of the discarded textiles, both energy-intensive processes.

Yelin Ko, a doctoral student in the field of fiber science, is the first author of “UiO-66 Inspired Superhydrophobic Coatings Fabricated from Discarded Polyester/Spandex Textiles,” which published Sept. 21 in ACS Applied Materials and Interfaces. Hinestroza is senior author; Tamer Uyar, associate professor of fiber science in the Department of Human Centered Design (CHE), is the other co-author.

This research is an extension of work published in 2023 demonstrating that old clothing could be chemically broken down to reuse polyester compounds to create MOF particles with potential applications in fire resistance, anti-bacterial properties, or wrinkle resistance. The new work is taking this proof of concept and applying it in a direct way.

In this work, metal-organic frameworks – unique structures pioneered in the 1990s by chemist Omar Yaghi, with whom Hinestroza collaborated on a Department of Defense grant in the late 2000s – were synthesized by chemically decomposing discarded polyester textiles into a heterogenous soup containing molecules of polyester and its monomers, dyes, additives and dirt usually associated with used clothes.

The researchers exposed discarded fabrics to an alkaline depolymerization process to produce disodium terephthalate, a known linker for synthesis of UiO-66, a popular MOF. They conducted experiments using different amounts of ethanol, and found that with a small amount of ethanol, UiO-66 assembled on top of a polyester and spandex substrate, exhibited superhydrophobic behavior.

The fragments of spandex, the group found, modified the otherwise hydrophilic MOF structure and made it hydrophobic. What’s more, the UiO-66 material was subjected to repeated washing and abrasion, and maintained its water resistance.

The group said this technology is one way to reduce the world’s reliance on harmful chemicals in textile manufacturing.

“We must find alternatives to fluorinated finishes, also known as ‘forever chemicals,’” Uyar said. “This study demonstrates how we can achieve functional finishes, including water-repellent and self-cleaning properties, by upcycling textile waste instead of relying on ‘forever chemicals.’”

The “upcycling” aspect of this work is what’s most important, Hinestroza said.

“It’s very easy to blame the brands or blame the producers, but in the end, they will not produce if you don’t consume,” he said. “And whatever is not being consumed is thrown away. And we want to believe that the problem ends in our garbage cans, but it doesn’t.”

This research utilized the Cornell Center for Materials Research Shared Facilities, which are supported by the National Science Foundation. Other support came from the Fulbright U.S. Student Program, which is sponsored by the U.S. Department of State and the Korean-American Educational Commission.

Eastman Naia™ returns to Première Vision Paris to showcase the numerous applications of Naia™ Renew staple fibers, demonstrating their transformative potential in fashion. Known for delivering luxurious comfort, fashion-forward style, and a sustainable approach, Naia™ Renew fibers want to set the standard for a more eco-conscious innovation in textile manufacturing.

Cellulosic acetate, in its usual filament fiber form, is renowned for being one of the most reliable materials for achieving that signature silky look. Naia™ Renew staple is a versatile fiber sourced from 60% sustainably sourced wood pulp and 40% recycled waste material through GRS-certified mass balance accounting, using a low-impact, closed-loop process. Designed for both woven and knitted fabrics, it blends perfectly with premium materials such as wool, cashmere, and linen to create lightweight, breathable textiles. Renowned for its durability and quick-drying properties, Naia™ Renew staple enhances fabrics with a skin-friendly softness that ensures superior comfort. Its low density contributes to a refined, pearl-like luster while keeping garments lightweight.

At Première Vision, Eastman Naia™ will present a curated selection of fabrics and garments developed in collaboration with partners and brands and designed to meet the demands of today’s fashion-forward and environmentally conscious consumers.

Aligned with its core values for mainstreaming circularity, Eastman Naia™ takes the opportunity at Première Vision to celebrate its partnerships with leading mills in Europe, recognized for their advanced textile expertise and sustainability initiatives. These collaborations support the shift towards nearshoring, helping to reduce lead times, streamline logistics, and minimize transportation-related emissions, ultimately lowering the overall environmental footprint.

Source Fashion, a European leading responsible sourcing show, has revealed a snapshot of the trend-led catwalk themes set to take centre stage at its February 2025 show. Taking place from 18th – 20th February at Olympia London, the Source Catwalk will bring to life a visionary blend of innovation, sustainability, and sensory-rich fashion experiences, highlighting the future of responsible design, as well as bespoke designs by headline designer Stuart Trevor.
 
Trend Highlights AW25 - 26
Three key overarching macro trends and seasonal design directions for AW25 – 26 for womenswear; Multisensory, Transformative, and Rejuvenating. These feature micro womenswear stories that are set to influence collections.
 
CircusPlay – A multisensory spectacle inspired by the whimsical world of the circus, this trend introduces bold colours, exaggerated silhouettes, and rich textures. Standout pieces include the Bubble Hem Dress, Volume Draped Top, and Exaggerated Shoulder Top, embracing playful theatricality while remaining wearable for the modern consumer.
 
Hyper Tactile – Fashion becomes an immersive, sensory experience, merging visual drama with the pleasure of touch. This trend features an organic colour palette, with hues such as Organic Matter and Enchanted Forest, evoking purity, warmth, and nature’s enchanting textures.
 
Reconstructed – A celebration of upcycling and sustainability, Reconstructed fashion breathes new life into garments through patchwork designs, mixed textiles, and artistic repurposing. The colour palette blends earthy neutrals with Desert Architect tones—balancing warm golds and cool stony greys.
 
Plant Power – A tribute to botanical beauty and plant-based materials, this trend spotlights innovative textiles such as Piñatex (pineapple leaf fabric), organic cotton, and nature-inspired textures. Dominated by greens and browns, with subtle contrasts, Plant Power redefines sustainable luxury.
 
Headline Designer: Stuart Trevor to Showcase Bespoke Collection
Renowned designer Stuart Trevor will unveil a bespoke collection from his eponymous label, bringing his signature craftsmanship and innovation to the Source Catwalk.
 
The Source Catwalk Showtimes

• Tuesday: 11am, 1pm, and 3.30pm
• Wednesday: 10.30am, 1pm, and 3.30pm
• Thursday: 11am and 1pm

Fashion for Good announced "Closing the Footwear Loop," a major initiative bringing together 14 leading fashion and footwear brands and their existing circularity programmes to tackle the industry's complex circularity challenges. This collaborative project aims to enable the transformation of footwear's current linear "take-make-dispose" model into a circular one, driving innovation across the value chain.
 
Participating brands include: adidas, DEICHMANN, Dr. Martens, Footwear Innovation Foundation (affiliated with FDRA), Inditex, lululemon, ON, Otto Group, Puma, Reformation, Target, Tommy Hilfiger, Vivobarefoot, and Zalando.
 
Footwear: A Complex Challenge
The global footwear industry churns out 23.8 billion pairs of shoes  annually, a figure that highlights both its scale and its environmental footprint. Each shoe is composed on average of more than 60 different components , ranging from fabrics and plastics to rubber and adhesives, intricately assembled to meet performance, aesthetic, and cost demands. This complexity, however, hinders the adoption of circular practices, leaving the sector lagging behind in circular innovation compared to other areas of fashion.
 
While consumers and the industry alike are increasingly calling for more circular solutions, the reality is stark: the most recent studies conclude that approximately 90% of footwear ends up in landfills , contributing to an ever-growing mountain of waste. Unlike other areas of fashion where innovation has been more readily integrated, footwear's multi-material construction and complex design complicate efforts to sort, disassemble, or recycle effectively.
 
This challenge is exacerbated by a lack of reverse logistics infrastructure and the absence of design principles that prioritise circularity. Current practices largely focus on linear production models — manufacture, use, and discard — failing to address the lifecycle of products. The sector's lag in scaled innovation compared to apparel underscores the urgency for systemic change, as the environmental consequences of inaction continue to mount.  
 
While this complexity presents a significant hurdle, brands are already exploring innovative solutions, including material science advancements and take-back programs, to address these challenges and pave the way for more circular footwear.

These individual efforts complement the collaborative work within “Closing the Footwear Loop”, creating a synergistic approach to driving industry-wide change.

Fashion for Good is working with ecosystem partners The Footwear Collective, Global Footwear Future Coalition (GFFC), and Global Fashion Agenda to drive a collaborative approach across the industry.  
 
Closing the Footwear Loop was born out of Pioneering the Future of Footwear and addresses multiple key intervention points: lack of end-of-life infrastructure, complex multi-material designs, and a need for unified circularity approaches. This project will deliver:
 

• Detailed mapping of European footwear waste streams (in collaboration with Circle Economy), providing crucial data on volumes, materials, rewearability, and recyclability. (Report & business case assessment due 2025)
• A roadmap towards circular footwear design, developed with Fashion for Good Alumni circular.fashion, outlining principles for material selection, durability, recyclability, repairability, and responsible chemical management. (Guidelines due 2025)
• Validation of end-of-use innovations, including trials and impact assessments, to overcome current bottlenecks and drive industry-wide adoption. (Recycled material outputs due 2026)

Elkem Silicones has been honored for its commitment to sustainable businesses, receiving awards in two categories of the SEAL Awards. This recognition underscores our comprehensive approach to our ESG strategy, from executing our climate roadmap to developing silicone solutions supporting circularity.
Environmental Initiative Award:

The innovative Industrial Symbiosis for Silicones value chain initiative has been recognized for the recycling of hydrochloric acid (HCl) waste into valuable raw materials for specialty silicones.

This approach not only reduces waste and CO2 emissions but aligns with the company’s ambition to develop and scale up new technologies and processes to maximize raw material value, starting with in-house industrial waste.
This closed-loop system has already delivered a carbon footprint reduction of up to 6.5% in one of our product ranges, with the potential to achieve up to 14% in the midterm.

Sustainable Product Award
SILCOLAPSE™ EASY 10, honored with the Sustainable Product Award, is the result of an intensive R&D program aimed at formulating an optimal solution for foam control in the plastic recycling sector.

This product addresses the critical issue of foam formation during the washing and wastewater treatment stages of recycling, which are essential for reducing environmental impact and improving process efficiency.

In industrial trials, SILCOLAPSE™ EASY 10 has shown up to a 50% reduction in antifoam usage, leading to lower CO2 emissions and enhanced productivity. This innovation aligns with Elkem's commitment to supply industries enabling the green transition.

AIMPLAS will focus in this phase on the dissolution of PVC in textile waste and the chemical recycling of polyurethane foams. tExtended solutions are to be soon tested on a Europe-wide level and replication potential is to be studied regionally. Activities will also involve local community actors in the development and improvement of its blueprint.

The focus on finding solutions to the growing issue of textile waste is growing at both European and global levels. The EU-funded project tExtended is spearheading innovation in this area with the development of a blueprint, a knowledge-based masterplan to develop and demonstrate effective textile recovery, reuse, waste valorisation, and recycling processes.

After two years of extensive research, tExtended is now entering the second phase of work. The project continues developing its Conceptual Framework, a knowledge-based solution that targets quality retention. tExtended is also preparing to test it in an Industrial-Urban symbiosis collaborative real-scale demonstrator, to show its potential to reduce textile waste by 80%.

AIMPLAS, the Plastics Technology Centre, will play a key role in several areas of this phase. Regarding the identification and classification of materials, the centre is working with advanced technologies such as optical sensors (NIR, RGB and hyperspectral cameras) in collaboration with VTT. The aim is to assess the composition of textiles to meet recycling requirements. In addition, they will develop methods to separate non-textile parts, such as electrostatic and triboelectric separation, and classify garments by type through air separation. For this, the technology centre will use equipment adapted to process textile parts on a pilot scale. In addition, they are investigating the dissolution of PVC in textile waste to facilitate the separation of other materials and improve their recycling once separated. AIMPLAS is also working on a chemical recycling process for polyurethane foams to recover polyols that can be reintegrated into polyurethane foam formulations.

These project activities will take place in different formats in all the countries of the tExtended consortium, including Finland, Sweden, Belgium, France, Ireland, Latvia, Slovakia, Spain, Portugal, and Switzerland. The real scale demonstrator will be carried out in wide collaboration on European level, but tExtended will also realize localized regional studies for the evaluation of the replication potential.

The four-year project, funded by the European Commission’s Horizon Europe research and innovation programme, also focuses now on the social aspect of the textile sector by involving local community actors in the project activities. Through citizens’ participation in different actions on pre-sorting and returning used textiles, tExtended will raise their awareness about the sustainability and circularity of textiles.

The road towards the development of the tExtended masterplan for a sustainable textile ecosystem has already brought the project to reach relevant successes. Especially, the results obtained about improving upcycling processes and in designing a future data-driven circular ecosystem will influence the upcoming work towards the tExtended goals.

This project has received funding from the European Union’s Horizon Europe research and innovation programme under Grant Agreement No.101091575.

When PERFORMANCE DAYS opens its doors on March 5-6, 2025, at halls C4 and C5 at Messe München, visitors will once again discover fabric innovations for Spring/Summer 2027 across the Performancewear, Bodywear, and Accessories segments. For the first time, a dedicated Wool Forum will be introduced alongside the existing Trend, Footwear, and Bodywear Forums. A jury of renowned industry experts carefully reviewed the submissions for the upcoming season and awarded a total of four prizes.

At the heart of the event, the Trend Forum will showcase the award-winning fabrics for the first time, including the winners of the PERFORMANCE AWARD and the ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD. As the dedicated Footwear Area will now only appear at the fall fair, this year’s Footwear Forum will also be integrated into the Trend Forum in Hall C4. Additionally, visitors can explore the first-ever Wool Forum, located in the Wool Area, which mirrors the setup of the Bodywear Forum in the Bodywear Collective.

The jury, led by Marco Weichert, CEO of PERFORMANCE DAYS, along with Clarissa Stadelmann (Product Manager), Jury Head Alexa Dehmel, Regina Goller (Head of Innovation & Future Trends), and guest juror Laura Howe, Fabric Technologist at Mountain Equipment, expressed their enthusiasm for the outstanding submissions.

Sustainability and innovation in focus: Wool makes a grand comeback
The materials were divided into 13 categories, including 3-layer membranes, baselayers, workwear, bags, waterproof 2-layer fabrics, wool, and others. A particular emphasis was placed on this season’s Focus Topic: “Certifications – Which Ones Matter?”. The top 28 fabrics from each category, along with insights from the Focus Topic compiled by CSR specialist Anna Schuster, will be presented in the Trend Forum.

Previous focus topics have significantly elevated the quality of submissions. The Fall 2024 topic, “Colorization: Chemistry is Everywhere,” spurred a rise in the use of bio-synthetic dyes. Meanwhile, the Spring 2024 theme, “The Future of Polyester: Beyond the Bottle,” showcased advancements in textile-to-textile recycling materials.

This year, developments in the categories of Membranes, Safety & Durability (including aramid fibers), and Wool particularly stood out. Wool demonstrated exceptional versatility, being used in applications ranging from windbreakers to shirts. There was also notable growth in materials such as hemp-lyocell blends, recycled polyamide, and multi-component yarns. Two standout fabrics included a “Hulk fabric” featuring color-shifting effects under tension and a luxuriously soft modal-cashmere knit.

The award-winning innovations and highlighted materials will be on display during PERFORMANCE DAYS on March 5-6, 2025, in halls C4 and C5 at Messe München.

Global ecommerce platform and leader in on-demand merchandise production now leverages 86 Kornit Atlas MAX systems across its global fulfillment network Long Beach, CA – Impressions Expo Long Beach – January 23, 2025 —Printful, the global ecommerce platform and leader in on-demand merchandise production, announced the company has significantly upgraded its ability to empower creators, entrepreneurs, and businesses of all sizes by expanding its direct-to-garment (DTG) printer resources – further solidifying its position as an industry innovator. By integrating added units of the innovative Atlas MAX technology from Kornit Digital, Printful is setting a new benchmark for print quality and color consistency, delivering the best results in the industry for ist customers worldwide.

Both Printful and Kornit will be exclusively discussing their partnership at Impressions Expo in Long Beach, CA on January 23-25. The expanded partnership equips Printful with an unmatched 86 Atlas MAX systems across ist global fulfillment network, making them the industry leader in print on-demand DTG. Since 2015, the company has invested tens of millions of dollars in upgrading its DTG printing solutions to ensure advanced print quality and reliability for its millions of customers. Renowned for producing vibrant, durable prints with remarkable precision, Atlas MAX technology guarantees that every product meets Printful’s ambitious standards for quality and reliability - something for which Printful merchants around the world have come to rely.

The adoption of Atlas MAX fully reinforces Printful’s sustainability goals, offering a more eco-conscious printing solution with reduced waste and a smaller environmental footprint, aligning with the growing demand for sustainable practices in the ecommerce and printing industries.

This equipment upgrade is part of Printful’s larger mission to enhance its global fulfillment network and support its customers in building successful businesses. The advanced technology ensures superior results across its entire catalog of custom products, from t-shirts and hoodies to tote bags and beyond, all while supporting the speed and scalability for which Printful is known.

Kelheim Fibres, a leading manufacturer of specialty viscose fibres, has published their comprehensive sustainability report. By doing so, the company is setting another milestone for transparency while simultaneously emphasizing its commitment to the goals of the UN Global Compact.

An integral part of the sustainability report is the EMAS Environmental Statement, which – as it has been annually since 2020 – was audited by independent environmental experts as part of the EMAS (Eco-Management and Audit Scheme) revalidation. This confirms Kelheim Fibres’ high environmental performance and its continuous efforts towards sustainable corporate governance.

The sustainability report goes beyond mere environmental performance and addresses all aspects of Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR).

“Credibility and trust are based on transparency. With our new sustainability report, we demonstrate how we fulfil our responsibility for both people and the environment – and the contribution we make with our biodegradable fibres to combating one of the biggest global problems of our time, the growing plastic waste,” explains Wolfgang Ott, Head of CSR at Kelheim Fibres. The viscose fibres made from 100% plant-based raw materials represent a powerful alternative to conventional plastics in numerous applications and thus help reduce global waste.