From the Sector

The Lenzing Group, a leading supplier of regenerated cellulose fibers for the textile and nonwovens industries, welcomes the European Commission’s Clean Industrial Deal, which aims to pave the way for a sustainable, climate-neutral and competitive industry. Commission President Ursula von der Leyen discussed the initiative on Wednesday, February 26, 2025, together with 400 business leaders, including the CEO of the Lenzing Group, Rohit Aggarwal, in Antwerp (Belgium). The industry is calling on EU heads of state and government to take urgent measures in all EU member states without delay ahead of the upcoming European Council meeting in March.

“International trade tensions, volatile energy markets, and the need to decarbonise industries demand urgent collective action. We must continue to support Europe’s green leadership and ensure that those investing in sustainability are incentivised. We must act now, work together and translate ambition into tangible results”, emphasizes Rohit Aggarwal, CEO of Lenzing Group. “The Clean Industrial Deal is an important initiative for Europe’s industrial and sustainable future. It will strengthen Europe’s net-zero industry, expand green technology manufacturing, and enhance industrial competitiveness.”

One important aspect is access to affordable and clean energy, which is crucial for the global position and competitiveness of the industry.

“We appreciate the Commission President taking the time to join us today in Antwerp to present the Clean Industrial Deal. Nine out of ten calls of the Antwerp Declaration have been addressed. We need to transform Europe’s ambition ‘to be’, into a determination ‘to do’. Every day, Europe is falling behind its goals, and is losing quality jobs for our current and future generations of workers. In the turbulent times we are in we need bold action from the European Leadership,” said Ilham Kadri, President of the European Chemical Industry Council, Cefic.

Europe’s industries are facing historical challenges: declining demand, stalled investments, reduced capacity, and EU gas prices at 4 to 5 times higher than its competitors. Between 2023 and 2024, Europe’s manufacturing output – a sector employing over 31 million people – dropped another 2.6 percent. While for the chemicals industry – the industry of industries – Cefic’s recent study emphasised the severity, with over 11 million tons of capacity announced to be closed between 2023 and 2024, affecting 21 major sites.

To overcome these challenges, back in February 2024, 73 business leaders presented the Antwerp Declaration to Commission President, Ursula von der Leyen and former Belgian Prime Minister Alexander De Croo. The Antwerp Declaration lays out 10 concrete actions to restore the business case for investments, to implement Europe’s sustainability ambitions and safeguard quality jobs in Europe. It is now signed by over 1,300 signatories.

“Reading the Clean Industrial Deal, we need the Commission to focus, prioritise the three key actions that improve our situation already this year and put all power, boldness and bravery in the European Commission behind these. And give us a realistic planning for the remaining actions. When we say actions, we mean action, not strategies, policies or plans. Leave no stone unturned and break all taboos. We need the situation to change.” Marco Mensink, Cefic Director General.

“Cefic calls on all new EU initiatives to be evaluated against the following criteria: Do they keep Europe safe and independent, reduce energy prices, ease the administrative burden on companies, attract investments to Europe, create markets for sustainable products, and safeguard quality jobs in Europe? If the answer to any of these questions is no, EU policymakers should reconsider and revise the proposal accordingly.”

With the Fraunhofer Innovation Platform for Fibers, Processing and Recycling Solutions at Innovative Composite Center FIP-MIRAI@ICC, the Fraunhofer Institute for Casting, Composite and Processing Technology IGCV and the Innovative Composite Center (ICC), Kanazawa Institute of Technology (KIT) in Kanazawa area are setting new standards in the circular economy. With a total budget of 2 million euros - half funded by the Fraunhofer-Society and half by the ICC - the platform aims to develop solutions to global challenges in the field of composite recycling. A Fraunhofer Innovation Platform (FIP) is a temporary research unit hosted and operated by a research institution abroad, which is set up in close cooperation with one or more Fraunhofer Institutes in Germany. With “Mirai”, the Japanese word for “future”, the FIP-MIRAI@ICC sends out a clear signal: Waste is seen as a valuable resource and reused through new technologies. The aim is to create a forward-looking circular economy that guarantees sustainability for future generations. At the heart of the five-year cooperation (2025-2029) is a central location in Kanazawa area, which brings together researchers from the Fraunhofer IGCV and the ICC with companies, universities and customers.

Global challenges as an opportunity for innovation
The increasing use of composite materials in industries such as aerospace, wind energy and sports is leading to rising volumes of hard-to-recycle waste. As early as 2023, 75 kilotons of carbon fiber waste were produced worldwide, and 350 kilotons are expected by 2028 in aviation alone. The growing use of hydrogen technologies in mobility and transportation will further exacerbate this problem.

Technological innovations for sustainability
The German-Japanese collaboration pools technological expertise: the Fraunhofer IGCV contributes its expertise in fiber-matrix separation, quality assurance of recyclates and the wet-laid process, while the ICC contributes its pressing processes and continuous double-belt press technology. Together, this creates a unique “one-stop-shop” offering for companies looking for solutions for the recycling of composite materials.

Appearance at the JEC World 2025
A first insight into the work of FIP-MIRAI@ICC will be provided at JEC World 2025 in Paris, where the platform will be represented at the Japan Pavilion. Companies, researchers and industry experts are invited to visit the stand and discuss the latest developments.

A boost for the circular economy
FIP-MIRAI@ICC aims to act as a catalyst for sustainable technologies and transform waste streams into valuable resources. The close partnership between German and Japanese players paves the way for a sustainable and future-proof industry. With this initiative, science and industry are joining forces to turn global challenges into opportunities. With the vision of promoting ecological and economic sustainability, FIP-MIRAI@ICC is setting new standards in international cooperation.

TradeBeyond will be attending the upcoming Drapers Conscious Fashion Summit, a premier event dedicated to shaping the future of sustainable, responsible, and ethical fashion retail. The summit will bring together over 300 industry leaders, including C-suite executives, department heads, fashion brands, retailers, start-ups, SMEs, and suppliers, to explore advancements in ethical practices and circular economy models.

With just five years remaining to meet the United Nations’ 2030 Sustainable Development Goals, the fashion industry must accelerate its commitment to sustainability and transparency. The summit will provide a platform to discuss social impact, responsible sourcing, traceability, and the future of sustainable production.

When: March 12, 2025

Where: Hilton London Bankside
2-8 Great Suffolk St. London SE1
0UG, United Kingdom

Why It Matters:
As global supply chains face increasing scrutiny from consumers and regulators, fashion retailers must adopt tools that drive efficiency, accountability, and sustainability. TradeBeyond has five transformative solutions designed to address these challenges and support fashion brands in achieving responsible business practices:

• Collaborative Change Management: Real-time tracking and inline commenting tools streamline supplier collaboration, eliminating miscommunication in product workflows.
• AI-Powered Chain of Custody: Advanced automation for tracking orders and compliance documents ensures transparency and mitigates ESG risks.
• Shipping and Logistics Visibility: Real-time shipment tracking provides up-to-the-minute insights, enabling proactive decision-making to avoid costly delays.
• Integrated Lab Testing: Seamless platform integration ensures product safety and quality compliance.
• CBX Carbon Impact & Analytics: Revolutionary carbon tracking features help businesses monitor Scope 3 emissions and meet sustainability goals, with personalized and interactive dashboards including Smart Alerts.

Haelixa, a leader in textile traceability solutions, has appointed Marwa Zamaray, a recognised advocate for ESG and European Climate Pact Ambassador, to its Advisory Board. With extensive experience in supply chain due diligence and sustainability regulations, Zamaray will support Haelixa’s mission to enhance transparency and mitigate risks in global supply chains.

Marwa Zamaray brings a wealth of experience in addressing the traceability challenges of textile brands. Throughout her career, she has worked for leading fashion brands such as Tommy Hilfiger (PVH) and Zara (Inditex), as well as value chain partners and solution providers across the industry. Her deep understanding of brand requirements and supply chain complexities positions her as an ideal fit for Haelixa.

Marwa Zamaray is a recognised ESG advocate and European Climate Pact Ambassador with expertise in supply chain traceability, ESG compliance, and sustainable business strategies. She serves as Interim Marketing Director at TextileGenesis, leading efforts to revolutionise supply chain transparency through SaaS traceability platforms. As a European Climate Pact Ambassador, she is a frequent keynote speaker and industry moderator, advocating for climate action and responsible sourcing. With a background in B2B marketing, business development, and strategy, Marwa specialises in helping organisations strengthen sustainability initiatives, improve traceability, and drive impactful market transformation.

A new technique could create waterproof coatings for clothes out of discarded textiles – far safer for humans and the environment than current coatings, which are typically made with harsh chemicals and carcinogens.

A Cornell research group led by Juan Hinestroza, the Rebecca Q Morgan ’60 Professor of Fiber Science and Apparel Design in the College of Human Ecology (CHE), developed the low-temperature technique for synthesis of superhydrophobic, or waterproof, coatings.

“If we can save one piece of clothing from going into a landfill, then that will be success,” said Hinestroza, noting that Americans throw away anywhere from 80 to 100 pounds of clothing per person annually.

Droplets of (left-to-right) soda, water, orange juice, sports drink and milk are shown on a piece fabric with (top) and without (bottom) a UiO-66 metal-organic framework superhydrophobic coating, developed in the lab of Juan Hinestroza of the College of Human Ecology.

The metal-organic framework (MOF) used in the group’s coating can be synthesized at room temperature, using more environmentally friendly solvents (water and ethanol) and can be achieved without separation or purification of the discarded textiles, both energy-intensive processes.

Yelin Ko, a doctoral student in the field of fiber science, is the first author of “UiO-66 Inspired Superhydrophobic Coatings Fabricated from Discarded Polyester/Spandex Textiles,” which published Sept. 21 in ACS Applied Materials and Interfaces. Hinestroza is senior author; Tamer Uyar, associate professor of fiber science in the Department of Human Centered Design (CHE), is the other co-author.

This research is an extension of work published in 2023 demonstrating that old clothing could be chemically broken down to reuse polyester compounds to create MOF particles with potential applications in fire resistance, anti-bacterial properties, or wrinkle resistance. The new work is taking this proof of concept and applying it in a direct way.

In this work, metal-organic frameworks – unique structures pioneered in the 1990s by chemist Omar Yaghi, with whom Hinestroza collaborated on a Department of Defense grant in the late 2000s – were synthesized by chemically decomposing discarded polyester textiles into a heterogenous soup containing molecules of polyester and its monomers, dyes, additives and dirt usually associated with used clothes.

The researchers exposed discarded fabrics to an alkaline depolymerization process to produce disodium terephthalate, a known linker for synthesis of UiO-66, a popular MOF. They conducted experiments using different amounts of ethanol, and found that with a small amount of ethanol, UiO-66 assembled on top of a polyester and spandex substrate, exhibited superhydrophobic behavior.

The fragments of spandex, the group found, modified the otherwise hydrophilic MOF structure and made it hydrophobic. What’s more, the UiO-66 material was subjected to repeated washing and abrasion, and maintained its water resistance.

The group said this technology is one way to reduce the world’s reliance on harmful chemicals in textile manufacturing.

“We must find alternatives to fluorinated finishes, also known as ‘forever chemicals,’” Uyar said. “This study demonstrates how we can achieve functional finishes, including water-repellent and self-cleaning properties, by upcycling textile waste instead of relying on ‘forever chemicals.’”

The “upcycling” aspect of this work is what’s most important, Hinestroza said.

“It’s very easy to blame the brands or blame the producers, but in the end, they will not produce if you don’t consume,” he said. “And whatever is not being consumed is thrown away. And we want to believe that the problem ends in our garbage cans, but it doesn’t.”

This research utilized the Cornell Center for Materials Research Shared Facilities, which are supported by the National Science Foundation. Other support came from the Fulbright U.S. Student Program, which is sponsored by the U.S. Department of State and the Korean-American Educational Commission.

Eastman Naia™ returns to Première Vision Paris to showcase the numerous applications of Naia™ Renew staple fibers, demonstrating their transformative potential in fashion. Known for delivering luxurious comfort, fashion-forward style, and a sustainable approach, Naia™ Renew fibers want to set the standard for a more eco-conscious innovation in textile manufacturing.

Cellulosic acetate, in its usual filament fiber form, is renowned for being one of the most reliable materials for achieving that signature silky look. Naia™ Renew staple is a versatile fiber sourced from 60% sustainably sourced wood pulp and 40% recycled waste material through GRS-certified mass balance accounting, using a low-impact, closed-loop process. Designed for both woven and knitted fabrics, it blends perfectly with premium materials such as wool, cashmere, and linen to create lightweight, breathable textiles. Renowned for its durability and quick-drying properties, Naia™ Renew staple enhances fabrics with a skin-friendly softness that ensures superior comfort. Its low density contributes to a refined, pearl-like luster while keeping garments lightweight.

At Première Vision, Eastman Naia™ will present a curated selection of fabrics and garments developed in collaboration with partners and brands and designed to meet the demands of today’s fashion-forward and environmentally conscious consumers.

Aligned with its core values for mainstreaming circularity, Eastman Naia™ takes the opportunity at Première Vision to celebrate its partnerships with leading mills in Europe, recognized for their advanced textile expertise and sustainability initiatives. These collaborations support the shift towards nearshoring, helping to reduce lead times, streamline logistics, and minimize transportation-related emissions, ultimately lowering the overall environmental footprint.

Source Fashion, a European leading responsible sourcing show, has revealed a snapshot of the trend-led catwalk themes set to take centre stage at its February 2025 show. Taking place from 18th – 20th February at Olympia London, the Source Catwalk will bring to life a visionary blend of innovation, sustainability, and sensory-rich fashion experiences, highlighting the future of responsible design, as well as bespoke designs by headline designer Stuart Trevor.
 
Trend Highlights AW25 - 26
Three key overarching macro trends and seasonal design directions for AW25 – 26 for womenswear; Multisensory, Transformative, and Rejuvenating. These feature micro womenswear stories that are set to influence collections.
 
CircusPlay – A multisensory spectacle inspired by the whimsical world of the circus, this trend introduces bold colours, exaggerated silhouettes, and rich textures. Standout pieces include the Bubble Hem Dress, Volume Draped Top, and Exaggerated Shoulder Top, embracing playful theatricality while remaining wearable for the modern consumer.
 
Hyper Tactile – Fashion becomes an immersive, sensory experience, merging visual drama with the pleasure of touch. This trend features an organic colour palette, with hues such as Organic Matter and Enchanted Forest, evoking purity, warmth, and nature’s enchanting textures.
 
Reconstructed – A celebration of upcycling and sustainability, Reconstructed fashion breathes new life into garments through patchwork designs, mixed textiles, and artistic repurposing. The colour palette blends earthy neutrals with Desert Architect tones—balancing warm golds and cool stony greys.
 
Plant Power – A tribute to botanical beauty and plant-based materials, this trend spotlights innovative textiles such as Piñatex (pineapple leaf fabric), organic cotton, and nature-inspired textures. Dominated by greens and browns, with subtle contrasts, Plant Power redefines sustainable luxury.
 
Headline Designer: Stuart Trevor to Showcase Bespoke Collection
Renowned designer Stuart Trevor will unveil a bespoke collection from his eponymous label, bringing his signature craftsmanship and innovation to the Source Catwalk.
 
The Source Catwalk Showtimes

• Tuesday: 11am, 1pm, and 3.30pm
• Wednesday: 10.30am, 1pm, and 3.30pm
• Thursday: 11am and 1pm

Fashion for Good announced "Closing the Footwear Loop," a major initiative bringing together 14 leading fashion and footwear brands and their existing circularity programmes to tackle the industry's complex circularity challenges. This collaborative project aims to enable the transformation of footwear's current linear "take-make-dispose" model into a circular one, driving innovation across the value chain.
 
Participating brands include: adidas, DEICHMANN, Dr. Martens, Footwear Innovation Foundation (affiliated with FDRA), Inditex, lululemon, ON, Otto Group, Puma, Reformation, Target, Tommy Hilfiger, Vivobarefoot, and Zalando.
 
Footwear: A Complex Challenge
The global footwear industry churns out 23.8 billion pairs of shoes  annually, a figure that highlights both its scale and its environmental footprint. Each shoe is composed on average of more than 60 different components , ranging from fabrics and plastics to rubber and adhesives, intricately assembled to meet performance, aesthetic, and cost demands. This complexity, however, hinders the adoption of circular practices, leaving the sector lagging behind in circular innovation compared to other areas of fashion.
 
While consumers and the industry alike are increasingly calling for more circular solutions, the reality is stark: the most recent studies conclude that approximately 90% of footwear ends up in landfills , contributing to an ever-growing mountain of waste. Unlike other areas of fashion where innovation has been more readily integrated, footwear's multi-material construction and complex design complicate efforts to sort, disassemble, or recycle effectively.
 
This challenge is exacerbated by a lack of reverse logistics infrastructure and the absence of design principles that prioritise circularity. Current practices largely focus on linear production models — manufacture, use, and discard — failing to address the lifecycle of products. The sector's lag in scaled innovation compared to apparel underscores the urgency for systemic change, as the environmental consequences of inaction continue to mount.  
 
While this complexity presents a significant hurdle, brands are already exploring innovative solutions, including material science advancements and take-back programs, to address these challenges and pave the way for more circular footwear.

These individual efforts complement the collaborative work within “Closing the Footwear Loop”, creating a synergistic approach to driving industry-wide change.

Fashion for Good is working with ecosystem partners The Footwear Collective, Global Footwear Future Coalition (GFFC), and Global Fashion Agenda to drive a collaborative approach across the industry.  
 
Closing the Footwear Loop was born out of Pioneering the Future of Footwear and addresses multiple key intervention points: lack of end-of-life infrastructure, complex multi-material designs, and a need for unified circularity approaches. This project will deliver:
 

• Detailed mapping of European footwear waste streams (in collaboration with Circle Economy), providing crucial data on volumes, materials, rewearability, and recyclability. (Report & business case assessment due 2025)
• A roadmap towards circular footwear design, developed with Fashion for Good Alumni circular.fashion, outlining principles for material selection, durability, recyclability, repairability, and responsible chemical management. (Guidelines due 2025)
• Validation of end-of-use innovations, including trials and impact assessments, to overcome current bottlenecks and drive industry-wide adoption. (Recycled material outputs due 2026)

Elkem Silicones has been honored for its commitment to sustainable businesses, receiving awards in two categories of the SEAL Awards. This recognition underscores our comprehensive approach to our ESG strategy, from executing our climate roadmap to developing silicone solutions supporting circularity.
Environmental Initiative Award:

The innovative Industrial Symbiosis for Silicones value chain initiative has been recognized for the recycling of hydrochloric acid (HCl) waste into valuable raw materials for specialty silicones.

This approach not only reduces waste and CO2 emissions but aligns with the company’s ambition to develop and scale up new technologies and processes to maximize raw material value, starting with in-house industrial waste.
This closed-loop system has already delivered a carbon footprint reduction of up to 6.5% in one of our product ranges, with the potential to achieve up to 14% in the midterm.

Sustainable Product Award
SILCOLAPSE™ EASY 10, honored with the Sustainable Product Award, is the result of an intensive R&D program aimed at formulating an optimal solution for foam control in the plastic recycling sector.

This product addresses the critical issue of foam formation during the washing and wastewater treatment stages of recycling, which are essential for reducing environmental impact and improving process efficiency.

In industrial trials, SILCOLAPSE™ EASY 10 has shown up to a 50% reduction in antifoam usage, leading to lower CO2 emissions and enhanced productivity. This innovation aligns with Elkem's commitment to supply industries enabling the green transition.

AIMPLAS will focus in this phase on the dissolution of PVC in textile waste and the chemical recycling of polyurethane foams. tExtended solutions are to be soon tested on a Europe-wide level and replication potential is to be studied regionally. Activities will also involve local community actors in the development and improvement of its blueprint.

The focus on finding solutions to the growing issue of textile waste is growing at both European and global levels. The EU-funded project tExtended is spearheading innovation in this area with the development of a blueprint, a knowledge-based masterplan to develop and demonstrate effective textile recovery, reuse, waste valorisation, and recycling processes.

After two years of extensive research, tExtended is now entering the second phase of work. The project continues developing its Conceptual Framework, a knowledge-based solution that targets quality retention. tExtended is also preparing to test it in an Industrial-Urban symbiosis collaborative real-scale demonstrator, to show its potential to reduce textile waste by 80%.

AIMPLAS, the Plastics Technology Centre, will play a key role in several areas of this phase. Regarding the identification and classification of materials, the centre is working with advanced technologies such as optical sensors (NIR, RGB and hyperspectral cameras) in collaboration with VTT. The aim is to assess the composition of textiles to meet recycling requirements. In addition, they will develop methods to separate non-textile parts, such as electrostatic and triboelectric separation, and classify garments by type through air separation. For this, the technology centre will use equipment adapted to process textile parts on a pilot scale. In addition, they are investigating the dissolution of PVC in textile waste to facilitate the separation of other materials and improve their recycling once separated. AIMPLAS is also working on a chemical recycling process for polyurethane foams to recover polyols that can be reintegrated into polyurethane foam formulations.

These project activities will take place in different formats in all the countries of the tExtended consortium, including Finland, Sweden, Belgium, France, Ireland, Latvia, Slovakia, Spain, Portugal, and Switzerland. The real scale demonstrator will be carried out in wide collaboration on European level, but tExtended will also realize localized regional studies for the evaluation of the replication potential.

The four-year project, funded by the European Commission’s Horizon Europe research and innovation programme, also focuses now on the social aspect of the textile sector by involving local community actors in the project activities. Through citizens’ participation in different actions on pre-sorting and returning used textiles, tExtended will raise their awareness about the sustainability and circularity of textiles.

The road towards the development of the tExtended masterplan for a sustainable textile ecosystem has already brought the project to reach relevant successes. Especially, the results obtained about improving upcycling processes and in designing a future data-driven circular ecosystem will influence the upcoming work towards the tExtended goals.

This project has received funding from the European Union’s Horizon Europe research and innovation programme under Grant Agreement No.101091575.