From the Sector

Aquafil launched, in Slovenia, the first demonstration plant for the chemical separation of elastic fiber from nylon, an innovative technology to open new perspectives in the textile fiber sector.

“After more than a decade of research and development, Aquafil marks a turning point in the world of textile fibers with the launch of a revolutionary technology: the first demonstration plant for the chemical separation of elastic fiber from nylon. The journey began in 2013, with a joint research project together with Georgia Tech University and the filing of an initial patent. Although industrialization had not materialized, the work of Aquafil researchers never stopped. The perseverance and dedication of the R&D team led, in 2022, to the publication of a new patent, the result of improved technology that was finally ready to be tested on a semi-industrial scale.

Today, thanks to this demo plant, the results of laboratory experiments are confirmed: for the first time, it is possible to effectively separate elastic fiber from nylon in blended fabrics – one of the most difficult challenges in recycling composite materials, particularly those from sportswear and swimwear, among the most problematic wastes in the textile sector. Indeed, the coexistence of different fibers within the same fabric has long been a tremendous obstacle to recycling, condemning tons of potentially recoverable materials to becoming waste”, stated Giulio Bonazzi, Chief Executive Officer.

The goal now is to optimize the process at every stage to define the set-up of a future large-scale industrial plant. Aquafil has activated a network of strategic stakeholders to ensure a steady flow of waste materials and build a solid and efficient supply chain that can feed an increasingly virtuous recycling model.

The nylon recovered through this technology will be entirely destined for the ECONYL® regeneration plant, where it will be processed into new regenerated nylon, ready for new textile applications. This is another step toward reducing dependence on virgin resources and making a concrete contribution to reducing the industry’s environmental impact.
 
The nylon waste is collected in locations all over the world and includes industrial waste but also products – such as fishing nets and rugs – that have reached the end of their useful life. Such waste is processed to obtain a raw material – caprolactam – with the same chemical and performance characteristics as those from fossil sources. The polymers produced from ECONYL® caprolactam are distributed to the Group’s production plants, where they are transformed into yarn for rugs carpet flooring and for clothing.

On the occasion of World Water Day, Jeanologia reaffirms its commitment to dehydrating and detoxifying the textile industry by presenting its Ecological Profit and Loss Account—a pioneering report that quantifies the positive impact of its innovative solutions in terms of water savings and emissions reduction.

The figures for 2024: 20,875,400 cubic meters of polluted water saved and a reduction of 98,4 million kilograms of CO₂ emissions—a contribution equivalent to the annual water consumption of a city the size of Valencia and the carbon capture in a year by a forest of 16,000 hectares, the same size as 22,400 football fields. This means millions of liters of wastewater have been prevented from reaching rivers and seas, and millions of kilograms of CO₂ from polluting the atmosphere.

Water scarcity: the textile industry’s challenge and the urgency to act
The fashion industry, one of the most water-intensive and waste-generating sectors, faces a critical challenge. Each year, it is estimated to use 93 billion cubic meters of water and generate 20% of the world’s wastewater, mostly due to processes like dyeing and garment finishing. This scenario highlights the urgent need for transformation.

The global water crisis demands concrete solutions. Jeanologia has proven that it is possible to produce fashion responsibly, significantly reducing environmental impact without compromising quality, authenticity, creativity, or profitability.

The denim revolution is driven by innovation. Since its founding three decades ago, Jeanologia has developed a integrated ecosystem of technologies that enable zero discharge and minimal water usage. Among its specialized solutions for the denim industry are:

• Laser: A pioneering technology that replaces traditional abrasion methods, eliminating the use of water and harmful chemicals.
• eFlow: Uses nanobubbles to transport chemicals precisely to fabrics, minimizing water usage and ensuring zero discharge.
• Airwash Tech (G2 Indra): Replaces conventional water-based garment washing with air, significantly reducing both water and chemical consumption.
• H2Zero: A closed-loop water recycling system that recovers up to 95% of water used during production.

Jeanologia has implemented these technologies in over 80 countries, working with leading global manufacturers to completely transform how jeans are made. Sustainability in the textile sector is no longer a promise—it’s a measurable reality.

Since its founding, Jeanologia has been on a mission to transform the textile industry into a more ethical, sustainable, and efficient model. The company works closely with brands, retailers, and suppliers on this transformative journey, offering disruptive technologies, innovative software, and a new operational model. Their groundbreaking solutions, including laser technology, G2 ozone, Dancing Box, e-flow, H2Zero, and ColorBox, have redefined garment design and finishing standards, eliminating polluting processes and significantly reducing the use of water, energy, and chemicals. Thanks to these advancements, Jeanologia has saved millions of liters of water and eliminated harmful substances, turning its vision of a truly sustainable textile industry into reality.

In 2025, Jeanologia celebrates its 30th anniversary, marking a legacy of three decades of sustainable innovation. From the introduction of its laser technology in 1999, which revolutionized denim finishing, to its current challenge of implementing a revolutionary sustainable garment dyeing process, the Spanish company has pioneered solutions that not only benefit the environment but also optimize operational costs. Looking ahead, Jeanologia remains committed to creating an eco-efficient and ethical textile future, encouraging all industry stakeholders to join its Mission Zero initiative: dehydrate and detoxify the textile industry. No more water and toxic chemicals used in garment finishing around the world.

Through a nationwide network of charity shops, donation centres and clothing banks the Salvation Army Trading Company (SATCoL) work with community groups, large organisations, local authorities, schools, colleges and individuals - all with a shared aim to help others and help protect our planet.

SATCoL work in partnership with brands and retailers to accept excess, returned and end-of- line stock of clothing and home-goods to be resold in its charity shops across the country.

This partnership opportunity for brands helps them to save on additional storage costs, create more room in their warehouse for new stock and divert more items away from disposal.

By extending the useful life of products, Salvation Army Trading Company and its partners make a positive contribution to reducing unnecessary waste, greenhouse gas emissions, and raising vital funds for charity work. In addition to this, SATCoL’s investment in modern processing centres and new technology means they can offer new ways of reusing and recycling textiles on a commercial scale, never seen in the UK. The trading arm of the charity also support businesses to amplify the message around their sustainable collaboration by making the public aware of their partnership goals and aspirations to create lasting change.

As a call to action, SATCoL produced a photoshoot with leading fashion industry photographer Camille Sanson and Fashion Stylist Karl Willett whose work includes styling celebrities for The Grammy’s, The Met Gala, Vanity Fair magazine and more.

Karl shared “It was a pleasure to be part of the Corporate Donations shoot, a scheme that is contributing to positive change and sustainability for the planet by diverting more everyday items away from landfill.”

The stylish images demonstrate the potential of second-hand fashion, electronic devices and home-goods, all of which the organisation is keen to receive. The Salvation Army Trading Company has received industry wide recognition for their efforts to support brand and retailers to meet their sustainability goals and encourage second-hand shopping.

Shaunacy Burne, Corporate Partnerships Manager at Salvation Army Trading Company shared: “We are partnering with businesses to receive their obsolete, end of line and faulty stock to be reused or repurposed. Not only are we helping brands to meet their CSR goals with our sustainable solutions, but the donations we receive are sold in our retail outlets to help raise vital funds for our parent charity. We’re keen to explore partnership opportunities with retailers, together we can reduce waste and divert more items away from landfill. Please get in touch, we want to hear from you.”

Eastman, global specialty materials company and manufacturer of Naia™ Renew cellulosic fibers, unveiled the most comprehensive product application matrix of its Naia™ fiber brand at the China International Textile Fabrics and Accessories (Spring/Summer) Expo. Making its debut, the innovative “Naia™ On The Move” new blending solution concept offers a fresh take on active urban fashion, redefining comfort and versatility, and reinforcing Eastman’s commitment to driving sustainable innovation in the fashion industry.

Naia™ Renew is a sustainable circular fiber composed of 60% sustainably sourced wood pulp and 40% GRS-certified recycled* waste materials. Utilizing Eastman’s carbon renewal technology (CRT), this process breaks down hard-to-recycle waste material into basic molecules to make new cellulose acetate fibers without compromising quality. This innovation offers a scalable solution to two of the world’s most pressing environmental issues: waste pollution and raw material overconsumption.

At the expo, Eastman also highlighted Naia™ Renew staple fiber's application in denim, achieving a balance between comfort and sustainability in denim. Additionally, its use in woven woolen fabrics, ranging from structured shirts to tweed coats, showcases its versatility. The fiber’s integration into home textile fillings further embeds sustainability into everyday living, demonstrating its vast potential.

Five Years of Innovation: From China Debut to Global Expansion
“Since its initial successful adoption in the Chinese market in 2020, Naia™ staple fiber has embarked on a five-year journey of innovation and persistence. As a novel fiber, Naia™ staple has not only filled a market gap but has also become a key force in helping brands achieve their sustainability goals,” said Chad Doub, global segment leader of staple fibers for Eastman’s textiles division. “Over the past five years, Naia™ staple fiber applications have expanded from loungewear to casual T-shirts, knitwear, and beyond. At our booth, visitors discovered the latest applications in activewear, denim, woven fabrics, and home textile fillings – our most extensive showcase yet.”

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, has taken sustainable and cost-effective cellulosic dyeing to the next level with the introduction of AVITERA® RASPBERRY SE.

Extending the AVITERA® SE GEN NEXT platform color of deep shades, the IP-protected brilliant trichromatic red empowers mills to achieve rich, dark and extra-dark shades while meeting the stringent fastness and sustainability requirements of leading brands and retailers. The newest element also offers significantly lower processing costs, with focus on reducing the recipe cost together with reliable right-first-time performance as well, “AVITERA® SE revolutionized the dyeing of cellulosic fibers and blends when it was introduced 15 years ago – setting a new benchmark with state-of-the-art application and fastness performance and advanced sustainability,” Dhirendra Gautam, VP Marketing, Archroma said.

“Our goal was always to offer a full range of attractive colors without limits. With AVITERA® SE RASPBERRY SE as our new trichromatic red, we are now enabling fashion and textile companies to produce differentiated end articles in consistent and long-lasting dark and extra-dark shades with the same cost-competitiveness as in pale and medium shades. This is another major step forward on our PLANET CONSCIOUS+ journey to economic and environmental sustainability for our industry,” he continued.

Substantial Savings on Challenging Dark Shades
Dyeing darker shades – such as black, navy and especially red – has traditionally been more challenging and costly than dyeing lighter colors. Achieving a deep, uniform color requires higher dye concentrations and more water and energy, and often also demands additional steps or re-dyeing. Dark shades, particularly red, also tend to fade more quickly than light colors, especially when exposed to sunlight and repeated home laundering.

With high-speed low-temperature wash-off, high process reliability and excellent reproducibility on dark and ultra-dark shades, the AVITERA® SE GENERATION NEXT dyestuffs allow mills to achieve water and energy savings of up to 50% compared to best available technology, and to slash CO2 emissions and effluent discharge by up to 50% as well. They can also increase mill output by up to 25% or more.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, has announced the program for IDEA®25, a two-day Sustainability in Nonwovens Conference. IDEA25 will take place April 29-May 1, at the Miami Beach Convention Center in Florida.

The IDEA25 conference will bring together industry professionals to share knowledge and strategies to advance sustainable practices, highlighting the need for ongoing innovation, regulatory compliance, and incorporating eco-friendly materials to foster a more sustainable future.

The conference will include engaging sessions on various pertinent topics such as regulatory trends, data and technology, innovative and sustainable materials, hemp and natural fibers, bioplastics, equipment and processes, and integrating sustainability throughout the lifecycle of products.

Highlights of the IDEA25 Sustainability Conference

April 29:

• Navigating the Shifting Winds of Sustainability Regulations: Gain U.S. and European Union perspectives on compliance and innovation in the face of evolving regulations
• “In God We Trust… All Others Bring Data”: Learn how to craft a believable and transparent sustainability story
• Innovative and Sustainable Materials: Discover how green product development starts with greener nonwovens
• Hemp Fibers in Nonwovens: Explore the potential of hemp and other natural fibers and their applications in sustainable products

April 30:

• Cradle to Grave Bioplastics: Understand the importance of ensuring sustainability in the use of bioplastics from the beginning to the end-of-life
• Design for Sustainability: Explore the impact of product and process design on overall product sustainability, during two sessions
• Cradle to Next Life: Challenge the “to the grave” mentality and explore strategies for product reincarnation

The conference is an integral part of IDEA, the premier event for the nonwoven and engineered fabric industry. Hundreds of companies from around the globe representing the entire global supply chain will showcase their latest innovations at the exhibition. 

Beaulieu Fibres International is exhibiting its next-generation sustainable fibre solutions for high performance nonwovens in various industries at IDEA25 in Miami Beach end of April.

“IDEA25 is at the intersection of nonwoven materials and sustainability, with a focus on innovation and research to address environmental challenges and new opportunities. With our Sustainable Fibres Program, we offer low carbon, recyclable and circular solutions where performance and sustainability go hand in hand, bringing value in co-design and TCO performance,” said Maria Teresa Tomaselli, General Manager, Beaulieu Fibres International.

Self-reinforced PP fibres for fully recyclable automotive composites
The company will be presenting its comprehensive range of polypropylene (PP) bonding fibres designed for thermoplastic lightweight composites and automotive interior fabrics. These fibres assist car manufacturers and OEMs in meeting stringent performance, cost-efficiency, and sustainability standards. Beaulieu’s PP fibres are engineered to enhance the mechanical, thermal, and functional properties of composites while reducing vehicle weight.

Fibres for high performance liquid and air filtration
Beaulieu has set new performance standards for the fast-growing air and liquid filtration industry rolling out its full range of MONO and BICO fine-medium count fibres, as an outcome of its investment into R&D efforts to promote staple fibres in the field of high efficiency filtration.

In addition to its existing portfolio of PP fibres for liquid filtration, compliant with FDA and European food contact regulations, Beaulieu is launching a new bicomponent fibre range in PET/PE, PP/PE for high loft filtration media and fine count mono PP fibres for tribo-electric charged air filter media.

The fine count mono fibres are customized according to the line specifics of the nonwoven producer and guarantee up to 20% higher filtration efficiencies for nonwovens in combination with state-of-the-art acrylic counter fibre compared to standard PP fibres used in this application. Typical applications are air handling units in larger buildings and residential furnaces.

Premium outdoor PP fibres for resilient, weather-resistant crop protection solutions
Engineered for superior mechanical strength and resistance to environmental stress factors, these fibres enhance durability in needle-punched fabrics, ensuring long-lasting protection in the field. Their advanced UV stabilization prevents degradation from prolonged sun exposure, extending the lifespan of crop covers, while their hydrophobic properties repel water, reducing moisture-related damage and maintaining breathability.

Ultrabond, design for recycling
Discover UltraBond innovative bonding staple fibres that replace the need for chemical binders. They open a path to create 100% polypropylene (PP) needlepunched fabrics which meet the same performance requirements as traditional constructions, while reducing end-of-life environmental impact.

The 100% polyolefin-based needlepunched fabrics are fully recyclable, reducing waste generation and creating high value PP recycled products as new materials. Furthermore, the sustainable fabrics are produced with an improved Total Cost of Ownership and with a significant ecological footprint reduction.

Beaulieu strengthening its position in the hygiene market
With a full portfolio already serving the hygiene sector, Beaulieu is focusing on next-generation speciality bicomponent solutions designed to enhance softness, processability, and sustainability in absorbent hygiene products.

Hypersoft fibres are specifically engineered for topsheet applications in direct contact with the skin: 25% improvement in softness compared to standard reference fibres while maintaining optimal processability has been achieved.

Meralux is a bicomponent trilobal fibre that improves nonwoven materials by providing better opacity, comfort, and absorption. It also promotes sustainability by saving raw materials and reducing carbon emissions by up to 60%.

The LYCRA Company, a global leader in developing innovative and sustainable fiber and technology solutions for the apparel industry, showcased samples made with bio-derived LYCRA® EcoMade fiber at Performance Days in Munich. When it launches commercially later this year, this highly anticipated fiber will be made from annually renewable Iowa field corn to help reduce the environmental impact of apparel.

Bio-derived LYCRA® EcoMade fiber will be the world’s first large-scale commercially available renewable elastane. It delivers equivalent performance to the original LYCRA® fiber and is a one-to-one replacement with no re-engineering of fabrics, processes, or garment patterns required. The product contains 70 percent renewable content and can potentially reduce the carbon footprint of LYCRA® fiber by up to 44%*.

"Bio-derived LYCRA® EcoMade fiber seamlessly blends sustainability with the lasting comfort, fit, and performance consumers desire," said Nicolas Banyols, chief commercial officer of The LYCRA Company. "This breakthrough innovation also helps our customers as they work towards their own sustainability goals."

LYCRA® brand returned as the presenting sponsor of the Bodywear Collective, located across from its stand. Inside the exhibit, the Innovation Zone featured tunnels displaying activewear, shapewear, underwear, swimwear, and seamless garments crafted from high-performance fabrics sourced from leading global mills. Advanced stretch solutions from the LYCRA® ADAPTIV, LYCRA FitSense®, LYCRA® SPORT, and LYCRA® XTRA LIFE™ brands enhance the collection.

March, 5 marks the official launch of the T2T Alliance - Powering Policy for a Textile-to-Textile Future, spearheaded by recyclers Circ, Circulose, RE&UP, Syre to advocate for their sector within the EU policy framework and beyond. With the textile industry at a critical juncture, the T2T Alliance unites key stakeholders to secure their place at the heart of Europe’s circular economy policies. By bringing recyclers’ expertise to the forefront, the T2T Alliance is driving policy change that supports a thriving, resilient and truly sustainable textile industry.

Set to become the defining textile policy of 2025, the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) will introduce market-entry ecodesign requirements that mandate a significant increase in recycled textile fibers by 2028. Alongside ongoing work in the EcoDesign Forum, the Commission’s technical body is preparing ecodesign requirements and invited stakeholder feedback on its latest report. The T2T Alliance seized the opportunity to provide expert input on the development of ecodesign requirements for textile apparel through:

• Promoting T2T recycled content and recyclability as core requirements in the ESPR ecodesign requirements for textiles
• Supporting a closed-loop textile recycling approach which includes post-industrial, pre-consumer waste and post-consumer waste
• Clarifying misconceptions about the textile recycling industry in the report (for example, by debunking the assumption that allowing post-industrial waste to fulfil recycled content targets would incentivise its overproduction)
• Advocating for a wide range of verification methods for tracing recycled material.

The T2T recycling industry requires urgent strategic intervention to ensure its long-term viability. Closing the loop in the textile industry, textile-to-textile recycling is an innovative process that involves converting used or waste textiles into new textile products. While the developments on the ESPR represent a momentous milestone, the direction that policy discussions are currently taking will have detrimental effects on the growth of T2T recyclers.

Even though the perspective of T2T recyclers is essential for effective policymaking, it seemed to be underrepresented in policy discussions so far. The T2T Alliance is a force to provide policymakers with an understanding of the real-world impact of sustainability policies, holds them accountable and ensures textile circularity is a non-negotiable in EU policy. The group is facilitated by 2B Policy, a consultancy that supports businesses to navigate a regulated future by offering strategic guidance, compliance support and facilitating industry collaboration and association building. The T2T Alliance will act as a hub for advocacy, collaboration and joint action and ensure T2T recyclers’ interests are not just heard but embedded in future textile policies, in the EU and beyond.

The Alliance is committed to:

• Advocating for textile-to-textile recyclers’ perspective in EU legislation and policies.
• Supporting the development of new legal requirements mandating textile-to-textile recycled content and recyclability in new textile products in the context of the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR).
• Removing barriers that hinder the growth and scalability of the T2T industry.

The formation of the T2T Alliance marks a significant milestone in the development toward a truly circular textile economy. By uniting key stakeholders, the Alliance will advocate for textile-to-textile recyclers to receive the necessary recognition in the policy ecosystem and support policymakers in understanding the full impact on T2T recyclers and incorporating these insights into policies.

The partnership between Filo and C.L.A.S.S., the international eco-hub founded by Giusy Bettoni, is renewed once again .
 
At the 63rd edition of Filo, “Sustainability from A to Z” — the service created by Filo in collaboration with C.L.A.S.S. and aimed at companies that want to navigate the complex world of sustainability — chooses to focus its showcase on the concept of responsible innovation and the means to expand its knowledge through technical insights, case histories, and direct testimonies. The ultimate goal, shared by Filo and C.L.A.S.S., is to support the industry and the market in making conscious choices that align with the evolving market landscape. In this regard, the proposals that C.L.A.S.S. brings to Filo as part of “Sustainability from A to Z” are closely linked to the debates and discussions taking place in the “Dialoghi di Confronto”, since they provide an additional opportunity for further insight.
 
In the space dedicated to C.L.A.S.S. at the 63rd edition of Filo, projects and solutions implemented by organizations and companies selected by C.L.A.S.S. will be showcased. This season, the focus will be on “green chemistry” and the role of “advanced” natural fibers, particularly in relation to cotton and linen. For the two fibers, companies have often adopted comprehensive innovation strategies, leading to what we define as “advanced” productions, where traceability processes have become an essential requirement.
 
In the C.L.A.S.S. space at Filo63, Cotton is represented by Supima®, a high-quality cotton grown in the United States, accounting for less than 1% of global cotton production. What makes it special compared to other types of cotton is its extra-long staple, which provides superior strength, softness, and long-lasting colour retention. To ensure the authenticity and traceability of its cotton, Supima® has introduced the AQRe™ Project (Authenticated Quality and Responsible Engagement). This cutting-edge system replaces the previous licensing program, offering a blockchain-based digital platform in collaboration with TextileGenesis™, allowing real-time monitoring of the entire supply chain. Additionally, Supima® partners with Oritain™ to conduct forensic testing, verifying the cotton’s origin at every stage of production. This advanced combination of technologies guarantees that every product bearing the SUPIMA® brand is made from high-quality American-grown cotton, meeting the market’s increasing demand for transparency and sustainability.
 
Regarding Linen, the Alliance for European Flax-Linen & Hemp will be present, the European agro-industrial organization that brings together all actors in the European Flax and Hemp supply chain starting from its fields origin.  2025 is the year of acceleration its sustainable transformation trajectory from the field to the finished product. New developments to be seen:  

• Evolution of its Flax- Linen certifications  
• Launch of a new digital Flax-Linen traceability platform: Flax-Linen traceability platform. European Certified fibres to Retaildeveloped in cooperation with   TextileGenesis - Lectra and set to launch in May 2025. This innovative blockchain-based digital tool enables tracking at every stage of production, ensuring authenticity and full transparency throughout the entire supply chain
• Publication of datasets and development of a specific B2B tool for calculating environmental footprint
• Scientific validation of the functional properties of Flax-Linen
• New Flax-Linen & Hemp sourcing platform for innovative materials and textile & technical solutions

At the C.L.A.S.S. space an Italian story about “green chemistry” will showcase featuring REVECOL® by ERCA Textile Chemical Solutions. REVECOL ® is a revolutionary 100% Made in Italy innovation that utilizes critical waste materials, such as exhausted vegetable cooking oil, transforming it into a next-generation line of safe, certified, high-performance, and competitive chemical auxiliaries designed for the entire textile industry. This unique approach allows for a CO₂ emissions reduction of up to 72% compared to traditional chemistry, setting a new industry standard. The range includes 18 auxiliaries certified according to GRS, RCS, ZDHC, bluesign®, and GOTS, ensuring high performance with a reduced environmental impact. REVECOL® is the missing certified end-to-end element that can drive sustainability, circularity, and performance in the fashion creation process, meeting the needs of a market increasingly focused on traceability and environmental responsibility.
 
Throughout Filo63, the C.L.A.S.S. team will be available to explore these innovations in depth with companies and professionals eager to gain insight into the three pioneering realities redefining sustainability, traceability, and innovation in the textile sector.