From the Sector

A new study led by the University of Leeds Institute of Textiles and Colour (LITAC) has found that the price of a t-shirt is no reliable guide to how well it will wear over time.

LITAC PhD candidate Kate Baker presented the research, which was conducted in partnership with climate action NGO WRAP, at the Product Lifetimes and the Environment (PLATE) Conference in Aalborg, Denmark. It forms part of a clothing durability project through the UK Textiles Pact - WRAP’s ten-year industry initiative to bring greater circularity into the UK clothing market.

The LITAC team tested the durability of 47 t-shirts (24 male, 23 female designs) from UK clothing brands, including luxury items. Testing included physical properties and washing using a standard mixed 30°C wash cycle followed by a tumble dry 50 times. The t-shirts were graded for pilling (or bobbling - when small balls form on the surface of an item and the number one reason people dispose of t-shirts), as well as colour fading, shrinkage and general appearance.

A key finding was that there is no correlation between price and durability. Of the top ten best performing t-shirts, six cost less than £15, outperforming many more expensive tees including the most expensive costing £395.

LITAC’s Dr Eleanor Scott, a Lecturer in Fashion Design: Creative Knit & Innovation at the School of Design, said:
“If circularity in fashion is to be truly effective, durability must come first. Durability underpins the reuse and resale market, as well as keeping our loved items in use longer. Crucially, these findings show that durability is not a luxury reserved for the few - it’s achievable at any price point.”

LITAC PhD candidate Kate Baker added:
“This research is another step forward on the road to developing a way of measuring how durable the clothes we wear are. Improved clothing durability is critical for the future of circularity and providing the opportunity for people to wear the clothes they love for longer. It was an honour to present our work on garment durability at the renowned P.L.A.T.E conference in Aalborg this year.”

The research found more hard-wearing t-shirts tend to have a percentage of synthetic fibres in the composition including polyester, polyamide, and elastane. Cotton t-shirts tended to have higher shrinkage than synthetic ones, which can be exacerbated with tumble drying. However, the research suggests well designed 100% cotton t-shirts can be hard-wearing and good value for money – 4 of the 10 top garments were 100% cotton.

The study identified several common characteristics among the most durable garments tested:

• Heavier weight cotton t-shirts tend to perform better than lightweight ones
• T-shirts with a blend of cotton and synthetic fibres, such as polyester or elastane, generally offer greater durability
• Price is not a reliable indicator of how hard-wearing a t-shirt will be.

By 2030, global apparel consumption is projected to rise by 63% to 102 million tonnes. In the UK, 711,000 tonnes of textile waste were sent to landfill or incineration in 2021, with 72% through the kerbside residual waste stream. WRAP believes designing for durability is critical to moving the industry to a more sustainable model and can be done while still offering value for money for consumers.

WRAP also found that the average person buys around 28 new items of clothing every year. That’s typically 8kg each, or 586,000 tonnes in total, and typically one quarter of every UK wardrobe is unworn for more than a year.

Mark Sumner, WRAP’s Programme Lead on Textiles and a former researcher at the University of Leeds, said:
“Most shoppers use price as an indicator of how hard-wearing clothes are ‘the more I spend, the more I’m bound to get out of my purchase’. But our study shows this is totally misleading. The most expensive t-shirt we tested cost £395 and ranked 28th out of 47, while a £4 t-shirt was placed 15th. The most durable t-shirt cost £28, but the one ranked second worst was £29! So, if you’re judging on price alone – buyer beware.”

The study’s testing methodology for durability is ready to be adapted for other regions and WRAP is now exploring partnerships with EU and US brands to co-create durability and performance standards tailored to their national needs.

A new technology uses microwaves and plasma heating to produce carbon fibers in an energy-efficient manner. This means high-strength composite materials can be produced more cheaply and efficiently. The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research (DITF) are part of the Carbowave research consortium, which aims to improve and commercialize microwave and plasma-induced carbonization.

The combination of high strength and low weight makes carbon fibers almost indispensable in manufacturing modern lightweight products. Major industries, such as automotive, aerospace, and renewable energy, are increasingly relying on high-strength carbon fiber composites.

Despite their advantages, these materials are complex and energy-intensive to produce. Stabilization and carbonization of the fibers, which are often made from petroleum-based polyacrylonitrile (PAN), requires slow process control in high-temperature furnaces. Despite the considerable energy input, a low material yield is achieved due to the long dwell time in the ovens.

A new process uses microwave and plasma heating to replace the traditional stabilization and carbonization process with energy-saving technology. With this technology, energy is only induced into the fibers locally, thereby minimizing energy loss. This process shortens the production time of carbon fibers, enabling higher production volumes with lower energy consumption.

A European research consortium has joined forces under the name "Carbowave" to optimize and market the process. Their specific research objectives are to develop an optimal coating for PAN fibers that improves microwave adsorption, to develop a plasma heating system for the oxidative stabilization of PAN fibers, and to advance microwave and plasma technology for continuous processes.

The DITF are responsible for implementing these processes in continuous production and on pilot lines in a pilot plant. In the joint project, the central task of the DITF is the stabilization of the precursor fibers with plasma technology. This involves combining plasma and low-pressure technology to reduce energy consumption in the stabilization process.

In terms of the circular economy, the Carbowave project includes recycling of carbon fibers. The new process technologies will allow for the microwave-assisted decomposition of carbon fiber composites (CFRP).

Thus, the Carbowave research consortium provides a holistic approach that includes the production and recycling of modern lightweight materials.

2025 marks a pivotal milestone for bluesign, the global authority in sustainable chemical and environmental management for the textile and fashion industry, as it celebrates 25 years of advancing cleaner, safer, and more responsible manufacturing practices across the global supply chain.

Since 2000, the Swiss-founded company has led the global charge towards a more sustainable future, developing a science-based, input stream management system to eliminate harmful substances at the source of textile production. Now spanning 900+ system partners across the globe, bluesign continues to deliver measurable reduction in environmental impact at an unprecedented scale. The company sets the global benchmark for responsible production with stringent criteria for chemical use, environmental performance, and resource efficiency, and  serves as a one-stop resource for navigating ESG and upcoming legislation  (CSDDD, CSR, ESPR, DPP etc), helping partners stay ahead of global compliance standards while embedding verified sustainability into every stage of production.

From its inception, bluesign’s mission has remained clear: remove harmful chemicals from textile production from the beginning, and hence ensure safer working conditions, reduced harm on the environment, and deliver safer products for consumers. Over 25 years, this mission has only strengthened, evolving to meet global challenges like PFAS elimination, decarbonization, and circularity, while driving continuous improvement across the industry.

Measurable Impact at Scale
The bluesign System enables its partners to make verified, measurable progress toward sustainability goals:

• Safer chemistry and materials: Over 28,000 chemical products and 70,000 textile materials carry the bluesign APPROVED status, signaling compliance with the strictest industry criteria and elimination of hazardous substances including CMRs and PFAS.
• Environmental Performance: Since 2019, bluesign System Partner manufacturers have collectively achieved the following improvements in environmental footprint:
• Global Reach: The bluesign network now includes over 900 System Partners across the world, including chemical suppliers, textile mills, manufacturers, and brands.
• Worker & Consumer Safety: The bluesign System ensures safe conditions for workers and non-toxic products for consumers, built on a foundation of transparency and accountability.

bluesign’s unique value lies in its holistic system, which tracks and verifies impact at every stage—from chemical inputs to final product. The independent, science-based verification process goes beyond traditional certification to ensure ongoing compliance and continuous sustainability improvements, building trust with stakeholders and empowering the industry to move forward responsibly.

Looking Ahead: The Next 25 Years
As the industry faces new challenges, including circularity and legislative shifts, bluesign continues advancing solutions that protect workers, consumers, and the environment, and remains committed to innovation and global impact.

As the industry faces new challenges, including due diligence, extended producer responsibility, and digital product passports, legislative shifts under the EU Green Deal, and rising expectations around circularity, bluesign remains committed to innovation and impact.

“bluesign was born out of a bold idea, that sustainability could be embedded into the DNA of product creation,” said Daniel Rüfenacht, CEO of bluesign technologies. “Twenty-five years later, we’re proud to be a beacon of trust, innovation, and responsibility, and to partner with industry leaders worldwide in building a more sustainable future together.”

Dr Roshan Paul, Platform Leader of the Smart Finishing Group at Institut für Textiltechnik (ITA) of RWTH Aachen University, is one of the world's top 2 percent of scientists. Stanford University has therefore included him in its rankings for 2021, 2022 and 2024. 

"The Smart Finishing Group is driving the sustainable biotransformation of the textile processing industry, and the development of technical textiles through multifunctional finishing based on green chemistry. The Group has already established itself as a reliable partner for the industry. Our technologies can enhance the competitiveness of SMEs and the start-ups focusing on niche markets," says Roshan Paul.

Professor Dr Gries states: "The ranking recognizes Dr Paul's global influence on the progress of science and technology. He is doing a great job at ITA. We are proud to have him in our ranks and congratulate him on his outstanding achievements!"

For the past ten years, the OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN label has been answering questions like: Where does my clothing come from and how was it made? It stands for transparency, responsibility, and traceability along the textile supply chain. As a founding member of OEKO-TEX®, Hohenstein played a key role in developing the label.

On the tenth anniversary of OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN, German football club Hamburger SV (HSV) is also celebrating a major milestone: both the men’s and women’s teams have earned promotion to the Bundesliga. To mark the occasion, the traditional club, in collaboration with its long-standing supplier MBA Solutions GmbH, has launched special edition promotion T-shirts certified with the OEKO-TEX® MADE IN GREEN label.

“Rapidly produced success items like the promotion T-shirt should ideally meet the same standards as any other product,” says Sascha Steinbrück, Head of Merchandising at HSV. “What matters to me is that a product is manufactured with ecological and social sustainability in mind and has been tested for harmful substances.” With this promotion T-shirt, HSV once again sets a strong example for certified fan merchandise as a promise for the future. 

The October 2025 edition of PERFORMANCE DAYS, taking place from October 29–30 in Munich, will spotlight a topic that is vital for the future of the textile industry: the role of recyclers in an increasingly circular economy. Under the new Focus Topic “Textile to Textile – the role of recyclers”, the fair aims to provide in-depth insights into one of the most pressing challenges of the industry.

The linear textile model is nearing its end. With increasing regulatory pressures such as Extended Producer Responsibility EPR and Product Environmental Footprint Category Rules PEFCR, circularity is shifting from aspiration to necessity. While mechanical recycling of PET bottles is well established, textile-to-textile T2T recycling remains at an earlier and more complex stage of development.

Recyclers are now playing a pivotal role in the transition to circular systems. However, many are still adapting to the scale and technical challenges involved. T2T recycling is not a standalone solution and it is part of a broader transformation that also requires reducing overproduction, encouraging reuse and repair, and rethinking design and consumption models.

The urgency is clear: the global textile industry generates 92 million tonnes of waste annually, yet less than 1% is recycled into new clothing (Ellen MacArthur Foundation). Unlike downcycling or waste-to-energy methods, T2T recycling retains material quality, enabling the production of new garments from existing ones. The ultimate goal is a closed-loop system that minimizes waste and reduces dependency on virgin resources.

In Europe, policy is accelerating this shift. The EU Waste Framework Directive mandates separate collection of textiles by 2025. In parallel, the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles promotes the reduction of virgin material use and enhances resource efficiency. These initiatives are driving investment in sorting technologies, digital product passports, and advanced recycling systems.

Regina Goller, Head of Material Strategy and Future Trends, explains:
“Circularity is the key topic of our time – and textile-to-textile recycling is a core pillar of the circular economy. The industry is working intensively on solutions, and much is already possible, even on a large scale. At the same time, new regulations are demanding concrete action. At PERFORMANCE DAYS, we see it as our mission to raise awareness – both for what is already possible and what lies ahead. We connect the right players and build the networks needed to truly close the loop.”

In light of the recent court cases involving two of LVMH’s subsidiaries, where workers in the supply chain had allegedly been exploited, LVMH is reassessing its supply chains across all subsidiaries. 
 
Luxury conglomerate LVMH is piloting traceability technology across its brands as Loro Piano became the second of its subsidiaries to be placed under court administration this week. 
 
The luxury market has been hit by a series of scandals, from labour exploitation to fake viral stories about luxury goods being made in China alongside fake goods. 
 
The Court of Milan found that Loro Piana, which makes expensive cashmere clothing, subcontracted its production through two front firms that had no actual manufacturing capacity to Chinese-owned workshops in Italy, which the court said exploited workers. 
 
Loro Piana Spa will undergo court monitoring for a year, according to the 26-page ruling released this week, which stems from investigations into the world of subcontracting for luxury goods in Italy that started in 2023. 
 
Units of fashion brands Valentino, LVMH's second largest brand Dior, Italy's Armani, and Italian handbag company Alviero Martini have also been placed under administration recently. 
 
LVMH, the world's biggest luxury group, acquired 80% of Loro Piana in July 2013, with the Italian family that founded the company retaining 20%, according to the court ruling. 
 
Loro Piana declined to comment to Reuters. LVMH was not immediately available for comment. 
In June, Loro Piana appointed Frederic Arnault, a son of LVMH chairman and Chief Executive Bernard Arnault, as its CEO. 
 
In their statement, Italian police concluded they had closed two Chinese-owned factories, the third being a ‘paper’ company with no production capacity, and imposed a joint fine of over 240,000 euros. 
 
One of the workers at the factories allegedly told police he had been hospitalised for over a month after being beaten for asking for his Chinese bosses for unpaid wages. 
 
The Milan court in its ruling on Loro Piana also appointed an external administrator to verify that the company meets all the judges' demands on control of its supply chain, according to documents seen by Reuters. 
 
The administration will be lifted earlier if the unit brings its practices into line with legal requirements, as was the case with Dior, Armani and Alviero Martini. 
 
LVMH reassured its shareholders in its latest AGM in April that it had used traceability platform TextileGenesis to look into tracking a sample 31,000 products across key brands including Louis Vuitton, Loro Piana, Dior and Bulgari.  
 
The system documents anything from the origin of cashmere used in Loro Piana scarves to the material sourcing for Louis Vuitton handbags. 
 
"Traceability and transparency are the fundamental principles that guarantee the excellence of our products," Antoine Arnault, chairman of Loro Piana and head of communications and image at LVMH, told shareholders at the company's annual general meeting in April. 
 
TextileGenesis founder Amit Gautam confirmed that demand for traceability solutions has surged since another subsidiary of LMVH owned Dior was placed under court administration last year for unethical supply chain practices. 
 
"Brands are realising that consumers now expect verification, not just storytelling," he said. "The luxury sector can no longer assume trust based on brand heritage alone."

Reconomy, a leading international circular economy specialist, has published a new global strategy exploring the evolving global landscape of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for textiles, outlining how businesses can prepare for upcoming changes and detailing Reconomy’s strategic initiatives to support businesses across Europe and worldwide.

The textile industry is approaching a period of significant regulatory and operational transformation. Traditionally, one of the most resource-intensive sectors, textiles generate substantial waste and emissions throughout their lifecycle. 

New EPR legislation is driving a fundamental shift by making producers responsible for end-of-life management, including collection, reuse, recycling, and disposal. This structural change is intended to accelerate the transition towards circular business models and more sustainable production and consumption patterns.

Reconomy views this regulatory shift not as a compliance burden, but as a critical opportunity for innovation and competitive differentiation. By supporting stakeholders in turning regulatory requirements into strategic advantages, Reconomy aims to help businesses build more resilient and circular operations while meeting increasing expectations from consumers, retailers, and policymakers.

The new strategy paper, Textile EPR Strategy 2030, sets out a comprehensive five-year roadmap, providing an overview of anticipated policy timelines and evolving requirements. It also addresses key themes including eco-modulation, Digital Product Passports, and the growing need for robust data and supply chain transparency.

The document outlines Reconomy’s mission and specific initiatives over the next five years that will enable clients to navigate the complex textile EPR landscape effectively.

In the short term, during the “pre-EPR” phase, this includes helping clients understand the regulatory impact, preparing them operationally, building strong partnerships across the textile ecosystem — including with sorters, recyclers, and other key stakeholders — and investing in technology to enable advanced data management and material returns. 

In the longer term, once EPR legislation is established across all EU member states and additional global markets, Reconomy will continue to support clients with multi-jurisdictional compliance (including in regions such as North America), help them leverage product-level data insights to drive innovation and better product design, and accelerate their transition to circular business models.

The strategy follows the launch of Reconomy's Textile EPR Impact Assessment service – a new tailored service designed to help businesses prepare for the rapidly evolving landscape of textile regulations.

Lavi Aharon, Director of Reconomy’s Textile Programme and Business Development Director, said:
“Textile producers are facing an increasingly complex and fast-evolving regulatory landscape as EPR schemes roll out across the world, and especially in Europe. At the same time, they are under growing pressure to demonstrate real progress on sustainability to retailers and consumers.”

In response to mounting global regulations and the push for a circular economy, CEMATEX (the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers) is launching ITMA Sustainability Forum: Accelerating the Green Transition on 30 October at Singapore Expo. 

The half-day forum is designed to help textile and garment manufacturers, particularly from South and Southeast Asia and the Middle East, navigate the European Union’s evolving sustainability regulations, and access to green financing opportunities to support their transition. 

Held alongside ITMA ASIA + CITME, Singapore 2025, the forum brings together EU policymakers, financial institutions, and industry leaders to facilitate cross-border dialogue and knowledge exchange. 

Singapore Fashion Council, the official association for the textile and fashion 
industry in Singapore, is the programme partner of the forum organised by ITMA Services. 

Mr Alex Zucchi, President, CEMATEX, said: “Sustainability has become a global priority. The textile industry must act swiftly to modernise production in line with regulatory demands and growing consumer expectations. This forum provides a much-needed platform for manufacturers to better understand the EU’s legislative landscape and the financing tools available for sustainable growth.” 

A key highlight of the forum will be the keynote presentation by Ms Kristin Schreiber, Director, European Commission DG GROW. She will provide a comprehensive overview of the EU’s sustainability roadmap and upcoming regulations driving the shift towards circular textile production.

Ms Schreiber said: “South and Southeast Asia are vital players in the global textile value chain. Many producers in these regions export to the European market, and their ability to align with upcoming requirements will be critical to a successful and inclusive transition. I look forward to exchanging perspectives at this forum on how we can collaborate globally to build a more sustainable and resilient textile industry.”

Under the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, by 2030, all textiles placed on the EU market must be durable, recyclable, largely made from recycled fibres and free from hazardous substances. Manufacturers worldwide must act now to meet these requirements and remain competitive. 

Programme highlights 

• Shaping Sustainability: Responding to EU Policy Changes
  Moderator: Ms Nicole van der Elst Desai, Founder, VDE Consultancy 
  Speaker: Mr Robert van de Kerkhof, CEO, ReHubs 
• Profit Meets Purpose: Financing Sustainability 
  Moderator: Mr Brandon Courban, Senior Advisor (Climate), Openspace Ventures
  Speakers:
  - Dr Rene Van Berkel, Senior Circular Economy Expert, Switch Asia, EU Policy Support Component
  - Ms Iris Ng, Head, Emerging Business & Global Commercial Banking, OCBC Bank
  - Mr Michael Rattinger, Senior Climate Change Specialist, Asian Development Bank

Source Fashion announces £500,000 investment in a scheme to support British Heritage manufacturers. On Day 2 of Source Fashion the show has unveiled a major new initiative designed to champion British manufacturing. The new scheme will provide each of 15 selected UK-based heritage manufacturers with a fully funded stand, marketing support, and brand development assistance, representing over £500,000 worth of support to run across the next three years.

Beginning February 2026, Source Fashion will form a dedicated British Heritage Pavilion to showcase the 15 curated, high-quality, heritage manufacturers, from across the UK. The selected businesses will receive support for three consecutive editions of the show, a move designed to help them build long-term visibility and growth.

“As Source Fashion grows into the largest manufacturing sourcing show in Europe, we believe it’s our responsibility to support the brilliant manufacturers we have here in the UK,” said Suzanne Ellingham, Event Director of Source Fashion. “This is about more than just giving away stands. We’re investing in the future of British manufacturing by helping these businesses tell their stories, connect with international buyers, and grow sustainably. It’s a small way that we can give back, while also making sure UK manufacturing is properly represented on the global stage.”

The programme will be open to a diverse range of UK manufacturers, from heritage textiles in Scotland to component specialists in the Midlands and South. It aims to address a long-standing lack of support for British producers who often struggle to afford the costs of exhibiting, especially when compared to government-subsidised competitors abroad.
Each business will receive:

• A free stand at three consecutive Source Fashion shows in January 2026, July 2026 and January 2027.
• Dedicated bespoke PR and marketing campaigns
• Exposure through Source Fashion’s global content channels

To ensure the most deserving and high-potential manufacturers are selected, Source Fashion will work with their advisory board to identify manufacturers and makers that would benefit from the show.  

The first full cohort of heritage manufacturers will be announced in September 2025. While most participants are still under wraps, organisers have confirmed outreach has already begun, and standout British businesses have already been selected to join the inaugural pavilion include Courtnery and Co, The last remaining button manufacturer in the UK, and Alexander Manufacturing. These companies represent the exceptional craftsmanship and highlight how special British manufacturing and heritage can be. The scheme aims to spotlight, with more names to be revealed in the coming months.