From the Sector

bluesign and SCTI donate the Sustainable Chemistry Index (SCI) Methodology to ZDHC aiming to advance sustainable chemistry within the textile industry. This collaboration aims to revolutionize chemical management in the textile, leather and fashion industries, while addressing environmental impact in a holistic manner.

For decades, the use of hazardous chemicals in clothing has been a major challenge. Despite industry efforts with numerous overlapping standards and voluntary schemes - the textile, leather and fashion industries struggle with varying regulations, inconsistent data and a lack of common action. Inconsistent regulations, limited transparency, and little coordinated action hinder progress, while consumers do not receive information about the overall environmental impact of these industries.

Leading organizations in the textile sector are elevating the conversation to tackle these issues head-on with converging assessment tools.

SCTI, a group of innovative and pioneering chemical manufacturers, aims to bring positive change to the textile industry and make sustainable chemistry the norm. bluesign has extensive experience in ensuring safe and responsible chemical management, environmental and worker safety as well as resource efficiency in the production of textiles. The ZDHC Foundation, driven by major fashion brands, is on a mission to detox the fashion industry by providing tools and guidelines for sustainable chemical management.
The Start of the Sustainable Chemistry Index (SCI):
In 2022, SCTI and bluesign announced the development of the first comprehensive Sustainable Chemistry Index (SCI) for the textile industry. The pioneering work leverages best available technologies, while transcending existing chemical assessments, and introduces a one-stop-shopping tool for a broader assessment of environmental impact. Such an approach was missing. Now, the SCI introduces a standard common language for convergence and alignment throughout global textile.

The SCI brings new parameters to assess how chemical products improve resource utilisation in the processes they are used along the life cycle of a garment. Key building blocks include supply chain transparency, responsible sourcing, feedstock reducing fossil dependency, product carbon footprint, resource consumption, efficiency in use during textile production, end use impact and end-of-life of consumer applications. This transparent framework makes it easier for the industry to evaluate the sustainability impact of chemicals present in a garment and promote circularity.

A Collaborative Donation to Advance the Industry:
To advance and foster industry-wide collaboration, SCTI and bluesign are donating, the SCI to ZDHC as the cornerstone of its Chemicals to Zero (CTZ-A) program. CTZ-A represents the highest level of sustainable chemistry within ZDHC. In 2024, the SCI content will undergo ZDHC's stakeholder engagement and consultation processes, aiming to enhance the Roadmap to Zero Program by addressing sustainability and circularity. ZDHC will make the SCI content freely available to the public, enabling widespread adoption and impact.

The ZDHC program is well-positioned to complement the expertise of bluesign and SCTI and to scale its impact within a multistakeholder structure. This collaboration empowers manufacturers and brands to make informed, responsible choices in terms of chemicals and processes, committing to sustainable chemistry and benefiting society.

Fashion for Good and its footwear partners adidas, Inditex, ON Running, PVH Corp., Reformation, Target, and Zalando announce a new initiative aimed at accelerating and validating the next generation of footwear innovations. This builds on the organisation’s existing work leveraging their expertise in scouting, validation, innovation and collaboration. This initiative will address the key intervention points needed to drive footwear circularity spanning four work streams across the supply chain from materials to end of use. Industry wide collaboration will be vital to overcome the various roadblocks we face in this space. Therefore, Fashion for Good is launching a call for action, asking all relevant innovators to apply and collaborators to join in the movement.

Around 23.9Bn shoes are produced globally each year, they are often made using over 40 different components from a range of different materials including TPU, EVA, PU and rubber. The industry faces significant challenges due to this high complexity of shoe construction. This combined with a low collection rate, results in a vast majority of discarded footwear ending up in landfills. Fashion for Good sees the need to address this challenge and focus on laying the foundation for footwear circularity as well as accelerating innovation.

Therefore, Fashion for Good will double down their work in this space, building on their existing projects including the Fast Feet Grinded pilot, which tests and validates Fast Feet Grinded's footwear recycling process. Expanding on existing workstreams Fashion for Good will collaborate with our footwear focused partners, including adidas, Inditex, ON Running, PVH Corp., Reformation, Target, and Zalando

To effectively address the challenges in footwear sustainability, Fashion for Good has identified the key intervention points across the shoe lifecycle and structured work into four core workstreams:

1. Materials - Scouting and validating sustainable alternatives for footwear materials including TPU, PU, EVA, leather, and rubber
2. Design - Defining circular design in the footwear space and collectively driving guidelines to build a circular infrastructure
3. End of Use: Sorting, Disassembly, & Recycling - Developing a comprehensive data set on post-consumer footwear waste flows, including (non-)rewearable fractions, volumes, construction and composition. As well as scouting and validating solutions for repair,  end of use, disassembly and recycling of footwear
4. Traceability - Laying the foundation by amalgamating a footwear traceability data protocol to build traceability for evidence to substantiate sustainability claims

CALL FOR INNOVATIONS
Fashion for Good is on the lookout for breakthrough sustainable solutions in the footwear sector that maintain performance and durability. If you have a relevant technology, whether you're an innovator, university, or established company, can apply by 20th September 2024 here.

CARBIOS and SASA, a manufacturer of polyester, fiber, filament yarn, polyester-based polymers, specialty polymers and intermediates, have signed a Letter of Intent (LOI) to cooperate through SASA’s potential acquisition of a license for CARBIOS’ unique PET biorecycling technology. This licensing agreement would allow SASA to construct and operate an enzymatic depolymerization plant in Adana, Turkey, with a capacity of 100,000 tons per year of prepared PET waste, and would give access to a circular recycling technology, enabling the production of polyester pellets, fibers and textiles from various waste sources, including polyester textile waste. With CARBIOS' biorecycling technology, SASA would diversify its offering to meet the growing global demand for sustainable materials in the textile industry, primarily catering to the European market.

Less than 1% of textile waste is currently recycled into new textile fibers^[1].  With European regulations moving towards the incorporation of more recycled content (at least 20% of recycled fibers by 2030), demand for recycled polyester in the EU is anticipated to increase, naturally positioning Turkey as a major producer alongside Asian countries.  In this context, SASA is striving to become the largest supplier of high value-added polyester in the region and beyond. To achieve this, SASA aims to introduce recycling as part of its activities, which already encompass the whole value chain from PET production to fiber and textile conversion. CARBIOS’ PET biorecycling technology plays an important part in SASA’s ongoing transformation strategy, which includes back integration, capacity expansion, even higher competitiveness, as well as circularity.

CARBIOS has developed a enzymatic depolymerization technology that enables efficient and solvent-free recycling of PET plastic and textile waste into virgin-like products. CARBIOS has ambitious plans to become a leading technology provider in the recycling of PET by 2035. After the recent announcement of a joint Letter of Intent with Zhink Group in China, this new Letter of Intent for a potential licensing agreement in Europe confirms global traction for CARBIOS biorecycling technology, and marks another significant step in the international roll-out of its licensing model. In addition to the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant which is currently under construction in Longlaville, France, this potential plant in Turkey would process PET waste that is currently not recyclable using conventional recycling technologies.

[1] System Circularity and Innovative Recycling of Textiles | Circular Cities and Regions Initiative (europa.eu)

The Lenzing Group is working with the non-profit organisation RTDS Group and 13 other partners from research and industry to promote the scaling of lyocell filaments as part of the CELLFIL project. Co-funded by the EU with EUR 6.9 million, the project aims to drive the reformation of the textile industry towards greater sustainability and a circular economy.

The Austrian organisation RTDS has launched the CELLFIL project with great vision. In close cooperation with Lenzing Group, which is at the technical helm of the project, CELLFIL aims to reform the textile industry. The centrepiece of the project is the sustainable and robust production of lyocell filaments. By optimising the entire fabric production process and its intermediate processing steps, the aim is to replace synthetic fibers with environmentally friendly lyocell filaments in recyclable end applications. This approach aims to develop and utilise alternative raw material sources for textiles. The realisation of these goals is crucial for scaling up lyocell filament production and promoting a circular economy that represents an environmentally friendly alternative to the currently dominant fossil-based synthetic filaments.

CELLFIL is part of the EU research and innovation program Horizon Europe and is supported by 15 partners from eight different countries. EUR 6.9 million from the European Union's Horizon Europe program has been made available for the implementation of this initiative. The European Commission has presented a visionary roadmap for the future of textiles, aiming for a circular economy in which all textiles on the EU market are durable, repairable and recyclable. This underlines Europe's commitment to sustainable innovation and a greener future in the textile sector.

After a initial launch in 2022, global denim company Wrangler® launches the second installment of Wrangler Reborn™ – the latest collection to celebrate the upcycling of denim. The newest Wrangler Reborn™ sees the brand collaborate with BVH Services’ brand Beyond Retro, for the first time. BVH are one of the largest vintage retailers across Europe with a reputation for producing on-trend fashion without a hefty carbon footprint making them the perfect partner to give the collection a new dimension and even greater scale globally.

Purposefully crafted with circularity and sustainability in mind, the latest Wrangler Reborn™ Collection features a sustainable twist on some of its classic styles, including the Greensboro Straight Leg Jean, Reworked Short, Icon Jacket and Heritage Shirt that provide consumers with wardrobe staples they can wear for years to come while simultaneously diverting textile waste from landfills. To create the collection, Wrangler revived discarded denim and transformed it into apparel tough enough to stand the test of time that can be repurposed and re-loved, providing consumers the opportunity to buy better.

Wrangler’s commitment to durability and long-lasting quality products has helped to keep waste out of landfills since 1947. Wrangler Reborn™ enhances that commitment and is an additional step towards the brand’s WeCare Wrangler™ goals, crafted to create a better future through its commitment to sustainability.

Archroma has been awarded a Gold rating by EcoVadis, the global rating agency for sustainability performance.

This consolidates Archroma’s position among the top 5% of the more than 130,000 companies from 180 countries and 220 industries assessed by EcoVadis against stringent criteria covering environmental performance, ethics, labor and human rights, and sustainable procurement.

“Archroma has a clear sustainability strategy that guides all of our efforts to develop and deliver innovative solutions that enhance people’s lives. This is encapsulated in the ambitious environmental operations targets we have just announced for 2030,” Mark Garrett, Group CEO, Archroma, said. “Our enduring goal is to lead our industry towards a more sustainable future. By engaging with platforms like EcoVadis, we strengthen our commitment to partnership and transparency while retaining our focus on consumers and the environment.”

It extends to Archroma’s own operational targets. From 2023 to 2030, Archroma will work to reduce water intensity by 40%, energy intensity by 15% and waste intensity by 10%, with zero hazardous waste to landfill. It will also aim for an ambitious 20% reduction in absolute Scope 1 greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions from its own plants and processes and a 40% reduction in absolute Scope 2 indirect GHG emissions from the energy it consumes.

Proparco has announced a €70 million senior loan to RE&UP Recycling Technologies, the circulartech textile recycling venture of SANKO Group. This investment will enhance RE&UP's capacity to scale Next-Gen recycled fiber production while reducing both carbon and water footprints driving RE&UP to set a new standard for circularity in the textile industry.

SANKO Group, with over 120 years of industry experience, remains a key partner for Proparco. The loan will support the construction of a new textile-to-textile recycling facility in Gaziantep, featuring 8.4MW rooftop solar panels for self-consumption.

With the fully recyclable 100% polyester trunk side trim, Autoneum is putting the rear of the vehicle at the center of its efforts for a more circular economy in the automotive industry. The latest addition to Autoneum’s growing portfolio of sustainable monomaterial products made entirely from polyester is based on the existing Pure technology Propylat PET. The component demonstrates an excellent environmental performance in terms of recycled content, waste-free manufacturing and end-of-life recyclability.

New regulations such as the revised End-of-Life Vehicles Directive in Europe are accelerating the automotive industry’s transition from a linear to a circular economy. In this context, the recyclability of vehicles at the end of their service life is becoming increasingly important. This in turn raises the demand for automotive components that have an excellent environmental performance across the product life cycle and at the same time meet the highest standards of material quality and technical performance. Autoneum’s new 100% polyester trunk side trim helps customers achieve their ambitious sustainability targets while offering optimum durability, design flexibility and aesthetics.

As with Autoneum’s environmentally friendly monomaterial carpet systems, the new 100% polyester trunk side trim is fully recyclable. Production cut-offs can be reclaimed, processed and reused, ensuring a closed material loop. Thanks to Autoneum’s high-value recycling concept, the recycled fibers can also be granulated and spun into new fibers, which reduces the need for virgin raw materials and thus conserves natural resources. The carrier material is based on the lightweight Autoneum Pure technology Propylat PET and contains at least 50% recycled fibers. Like all variants of Propylat, the technology features a high proportion of recycled material and can be produced waste-free thanks to its complete vertical integration. In addition, Propylat PET consists of 100% PET and is therefore fully recyclable. The new monomaterial trunk side trim made exclusively from polyester is also available under the Autoneum Blue sustainability label. Blue products feature at least 30% recycled PET that was collected from coastal areas, thus making an important contribution to preventing plastic pollution in the oceans.

Autoneum’s sustainable concept for 100% polyester trunk components is not limited to side trim but can also be applied to tailgate and other trunk trim. Thanks to their unique material composition, the Propylatbased trunk trim parts are lightweight and sound-absorbing, thus contributing to the attenuation of tire and rear e-motor noise. In addition, their geometry can be tailored to individual customer needs while the textile surface improves the overall aesthetic of the parts and at the same time offers a high resistance to scratches. Autoneum’s eco-friendly 100% polyester trunk trim is available in Europe, North America and China.

Fibre Extrusion Technology Ltd (FET) of Leeds, UK has continued the ongoing process of strengthening its Research & Development team. The latest addition is Charlotte Witts, who is currently studying for a degree in Chemistry at Nottingham University and will work at FET for a 12-month period. She will continue her studies in chemistry as distant learning modules whilst also working at FET. FET designs, develops and manufactures extrusion equipment for a wide range of high value textile material applications worldwide.

“I’m really excited to be joining the team at FET and getting stuck in to the role. Sustainability is a big passion of mine, so I’m looking forward to learning how FET develops new technologies that support the textile industry in this endeavour. I hope that my previous studies within this area will help to foster new ideas.”

Furthermore, FET has a development policy of bringing young people into the industry and has invested heavily in recent years to this end, helping to address the skills gap in the UK textile industry. The company’s R&D department comprises ten scientists and engineers who work closely with customers on process development and new product trials.

Charlotte Witts will be focusing on the wet spinning process which is fortuitous as FET has just finished commissioning their own in-house low viscosity wet spinning system. Over the coming year she will focus on spinning a number of bio-sourced polymers (e.g. alginate, chitosan, gelatin, recombinant proteins). These materials require a strong scientific understanding of the underlying chemistry to successfully produce a high-quality yarn. Furthermore, FET regularly gets customer requests to conduct trial work on these materials to de-risk the equipment purchase process.

Registration is open for RISE^® 2024 (Research, Innovation & Science for Engineered Fabrics). Industry leaders will convene to discover cutting-edge nonwoven research and advancements, October 1-2, James B. Hunt, Jr. Library, North Carolina State University, Raleigh, NC. The theme for this year’s event is “Sustainability Solutions: Manufacturing More with Less.”

The RISE program will focus on these key topics:

• Disruptive Innovation & Enabling Technology
• Advancements in Natural & Bio-Based Fibers
• Sustainability in Chemistry
• Energy Efficiencies in Machinery
• Advanced Recycling Techniques & Methods
• In the News: Legislation & Regulation

Prior to RISE, continuing the program begun last year, there will be complimentary webinars featuring technology advancements and innovations. More details and topics will be announced at a later date.

The program highlights for RISE include:

• RISE^® Innovation Award – three finalists will compete for the Award with the winner being announced Wednesday afternoon, October 2nd. Nominations may be submitted through July 29th via the INDA website: https://www.inda.org/awards/rise-innovation-award.html
• The Nonwovens Institute will host a tour of their $65 million-plus, 60,000 square-foot facilities featuring state-of-the-art equipment, pilot lines, and analytical laboratories on Tuesday, October 1st. An RSVP is required and space is limited.
• A Welcome Reception on Tuesday evening, October 1st, at the Lonnie Poole Golf Course.
• Graduate Student Poster session with their latest research during the Welcome Reception.
• New to RISE: Nonwoven Bonding Fundamentals course which will provide a detailed overview of the major fabric bonding processes used to make nonwovens. More details are available here: https://www.inda.org/training/advanced-training.php
• 18-hole Golf Tournament, Monday, September 30th, Lonnie Poole Golf Course, with a start time of 12 pm. Space is limited and registration is required.