From the Sector

For the first time, a piece of clothing is made entirely from textile waste – no bottles, no packaging, no virgin plastic. 100% biorecycled fibers. By developing and industrializing CARBIOS’ enzymatic depolymerization technology to achieve 100% “fiber-to-fiber” recycling, the consortium collectively advances the textile industry's shift towards a circular economy.

CARBIOS, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, and its “fiber-to-fiber” consortium partners On, Patagonia, PUMA, Salomon, and PVH Corp., parent company of Calvin Klein, unveil the world’s first enzymatically recycled polyester garment made from 100% textile waste using CARBIOS’ pioneering biorecycling technology.

This technological feat contributes to advancing textile circularity when, today, the majority of recycled polyester is made from PET bottles, and only 1% of fibers are recycled into new fibers.  The collective achievement marks an important milestone for the consortium’s ultimate aim of demonstrating fiber-to-fiber closed loop using CARBIOS’ biorecycling process at an industrial scale, and marks an important step forward for the textile industry’s shift towards a circular economy.

A plain, white T-shirt was a deliberate choice to showcase the technological achievement that made its production possible from mixed and colored textile waste.  By using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology, polyester is broken down using enzymes into its fundamental building blocks which are reformed to produce biorecycled polyester whose quality is on par with oil-based virgin polyester.  Petroleum can now be replaced by textile waste as a raw material to produce polyester textiles, that will in turn become raw materials again, thus fueling a circular economy, with the added benefit of a lower carbon footprint and avoidance of landfill or incineration.

The t-shirt’s production began with all consortium members (On, Patagonia, PUMA, PVH Corp. and Salomon) supplying rolls and production cutting scraps to CARBIOS in Clermont-Ferrand, France.  This textile waste consisted of some mixed blends with cotton or elastane, as well as various treatments (such as durable water repellent) and dyes which render them complex to recycle using conventional methods. The collected waste was deconstructed into its original monomers, PTA and MEG, using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology at its pilot facility. The resulting monomers were then repolymerized, spun into yarn and woven into new fabric by external partners, demonstrating the seamless integration into existing manufacturing processes.  The resulting sports t-shirt made from 100% textile waste meets the quality standards and sustainability objectives of the apparel brands present in the “fiber-to-fiber” consortium.

CARBIOS’ demonstration plant in Clermont-Ferrand, France, has been up and running since 2021, and its first commercial plant, the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant, is currently under construction in Longlaville, France.  In addition, CARBIOS recently announced several letters of intent with PET producers in Asia and Europe, confirming global interest in its biorecycling technology and advancing the international roll-out of its licensing model.

Europe’s textile sorting and recycling industry is currently experiencing an unprecedented crisis, even more significant than during the COVID-19 pandemic. The sector is under immense pressure due to several global disruptions, including the war in Ukraine, logistical challenges in Africa, and the rise of ultra-fast fashion.

As a result, there is an oversupply of used textiles and a sharp decline in demand from traditional export markets. The trade in used textiles between the EU and non-EU decreased from 464,993 tonnes in 2022 to 430,185 tonnes in 2023. Looking at Germany alone, the exports of used textiles to Ghana (one of Europe’s key export markets) have decreased from 7911.2 tonnes in 2020 to 4532.9 tonnes in 2023. Additionally, demand for recycled materials remains low: recycled cotton had an estimated production volume of 319 000 tonnes in 2023 (compared to 24.4 million tonnes of virgin cotton) globally.

Consequently, prices for second-hand textiles have plummeted, while the costs of collection, sorting, and recycling have skyrocketed. Since spring 2024, the prices for sorted second-hand garments no longer cover processing costs, leading to major cash flow problems for sorting operators. Warehouses are becoming overwhelmed, increasing the risk of textile waste being incinerated.

In a joint statement EuRIC Textiles and Municipal Waste Europe expressed their concerns about the development of Europe’s textiles sorting and recycling sector. They have clearly specified what support they expect from Brussel:

“We call on the EU to encourage Member States to lower VAT on textile repair, reuse, and recycling activities, within the existing VAT Directive framework, and explore the possibility of introducing a tax on new, petroleum-based materials. Such measures, if adopted at national levels, would incentivise the use of recycled materials and reduce the environmental impact of virgin textile production.

This situation is likely to raise processing costs for municipalities, potentially resulting in higher waste disposal fees for residents, with the fear that the textiles will be thrown in the residual waste instead. Downstream players in the recycling chain, such as tearing and spinning mills, are also feeling the strain, leading to significant staff cuts.

To avert widespread bankruptcies, immediate financial and legislative support is essential. Short-term financial incentives for EU companies that contribute significantly to a sustainable circular textile chain are needed to safeguard the industry from collapsing. Investment in recycling technologies and infrastructure, alongside targeted support for municipalities dealing with textile waste stagnation, is crucial. We urge the EU to facilitate public-private partnerships to foster innovation in textile recycling and to scale up recycling technologies. This will help increase Europe’s capacity to process textile waste sustainably and efficiently. A swift revision of the Waste Framework Directive (WFD) and rapid implementation of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes are also imperative.

In the mid-term, efforts should focus on making the textiles reuse and recycling sector competitive, in line with Commission President Ursula Von der Leyen’s ambition for a competitive and strong circular economy (through a future Clean Industrial Deal and Circular Economy Act). To reach this ambition, the EU needs to increase demand for recycled textiles, expand recycling capacity, and promote the use of sustainable materials through upcoming ecodesign requirements. We call for the mandatory inclusion of a percentage of recycled textile content (most preferably from post-consumer textiles) in all new textile products placed on the EU market, with a clear trajectory for increasing this percentage over the coming years. Without urgent action, Europe risks undermining its climate goals and jeopardising the future of its textile sorting and recycling industry.”

The Integrated Regulatory Strategy (IRS) has increased the knowledge on chemicals and sped up identification of substances for which regulatory risk management actions are required. Refocussed IRS 2024-2028 will continue moving substances to risk management.

ECHA’s Integrated Regulatory Strategy aimed to speed up data generation, identification of groups of substances of concern, and regulatory action. It did so by integrating different regulatory processes into one approach to manage chemical risks effectively and efficiently. The strategy also encouraged collaboration between ECHA, Member States authorities and the European Commission.

The original goal of the IRS was achieved: to clarify which REACH registered substances are a high priority for regulatory risk management or data generation, and which are currently a low priority for further regulatory action.

ECHA’s sixth and final report of its Integrated Regulatory Strategy 2019-2023 shows that it achieved its goal of screening high production volume chemicals, manufactured or imported above 100 tonnes per year, that were on the European markets in 2018.

Since 2019, ECHA has grouped and screened 6 000 substances, and addressed almost all of the 4 100 high production volume chemicals. Around 1 900 of substances screened in ECHA’s assessments of regulatory needs may potentially require regulatory risk management, mostly harmonised classification and labelling (CLH) or restriction under REACH. For more than two thirds of those, further data is needed first to confirm the relevant hazards. Around 60 % of all substances screened did not require further action.

Several substance groups, identified as requiring regulatory risk management, have been included in the EU’s Restrictions Roadmap, for example bisphenols, ortho-phthalates, flame retardants, hydrocarbyl siloxanes and hydrocarbylphenols.

Ofelia Bercaru, ECHA’s Director of Prioritisation and Integration, said:
“The strategy has significantly contributed to the EU ambition towards reaching the United Nations’ 2030 Sustainable Development Goals concerning chemicals. Over the next four years, we will continue the coordinated approach towards prioritising substances for risk management, whilst maintaining our good knowledge on ECHA’s chemical database, enhancing transparency with authorities and stakeholders, and exploring synergies with ECHA’s new tasks.

Next steps
The reviewed IRS for 2024-2028 will continue to improve the protection of human health and the environment from risks posed by hazardous chemicals. ECHA, the European Commission and Member States’ authorities will focus on agreeing more swiftly the necessary risk management measures for the identified substances of concern.

The future prioritisation of authorities’ activities will focus, for example, on the one substance one assessment principle. ECHA will integrate its new tasks to this approach in coming years.

Maintaining a focus on innovation despite the uncertainties that characterize the current international scenario was emphasized during the General Assembly of ACIMIT, the Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers Association, held in Milan on July 9. ACIMIT president, Marco Salvadè, showcased the data of the Italian textile machinery industry. In 2023, production decreased by 16%, settling at a value of 2.3 billion euros, as did exports, which also fell by 16% (2 billion euros).

China, Turkey, India, and the United States remain the main destinations for Italian textile machinery manufacturers. In 2023, demand for machinery in these markets was weak, but some positive signals emerged in the first quarter of the current year, especially from the Chinese market and again from Egypt, Pakistan, Brazil, and Japan. “2024 will still be a year characterized by many uncertainties,” commented Salvadè, “mainly due to the uncertainty of the geopolitical situation and fluctuations in final demand”.

In an especially difficult international scenario and with a still sluggish market, the Italian textile machinery sector remains a leader alongside a few other Countries, such as China, Germany and Japan. Accelerating innovation remains crucial, particularly to meet the challenges that await Italian manufacturers in supporting textile companies on their sustainable transition journey.

To highlight the opportunities that the European green transition opens up for technology suppliers, the public section of the ACIMIT General Assembly addressed a very current issue: textile recycling. The EU’s legislative guidelines aim to accelerate the green and circular transition of the textile sector with various actions: from ecodesign to EPR, from waste export regulation to green claims. Meanwhile, there is a growing demand for recycled textile fibers driven by the sustainable policies of brands that should not be underestimated.

When PERFORMANCE DAYS opens its doors on October 23 and 24, 2024, in Halls A1 and A2 at the Messe München exhibition grounds, visitors will once again find fabric innovations for Fall/Winter 2026 across the segments of performance wear, footwear, accessories, and, for the first time, bodywear. The jury, composed of renowned industry experts, reviewed the latest fabrics for the 2026 season in the Trend, Footwear, and Bodywear Forum, looking for outstanding innovations. A total of one Performance Award and one Eco Performance Award were presented.

PERFORMANCE DAYS continues to deliver plenty of highlights and innovations in technical fibers and materials in the Trend Forum at the winter exhibition. Since Fall 2023, the event has also focused on the footwear segment, summarizing the latest trends and news in the dedicated Footwear Forum. Starting in October 2024, the organizers will introduce a new Bodywear Collective, complete with a corresponding Trend Forum. In close collaboration with the London Contour Experts and designer and industry expert Nichole de Carle, PERFORMANCE DAYS will feature a Trend Forum dedicated to underwear, shapewear, bras & leggings, yoga in motion, and swimwear.

The expert jury, led by Marco Weichert, CEO of PERFORMANCE DAYS, Jury Head Alexa Dehmel, and guest jurors Regina Goller, a textile expert with experience in sustainable functional fabrics at companies like Odlo, Puma, and Jack Wolfskin, as well as Stephan Prinz, Account Manager Germany at Klopman, praised the quality, sustainability approaches, and high level of innovation in the submissions. The jury awarded one Performance Award (Bodywear) and one Eco Performance Award (Apparel).

The winners are: A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA & Penn Textile Solutions GmbH/Penn Italia SRL
For the Fall/Winter 2026 season, the jury selected three awards for outstanding fabrics.

Alongside the Eco Performance Award, which went to A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA for the article “69222/Colorful chemistry featuring holistic farming,” one Performance Award
was also presented for the first time in the bodywear segment: Penn Textile Solutions GmbH/Penn Italia SRL made their debut in the Bodywear Forum with "13949.

ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD: A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA / Article “69222 - Colorful Chemistry Featuring Holistic Farming”
In collaboration with Good Earth Cotton, this project focuses on sustainable farming practices to reduce the environmental impact of cotton while improving soil health, paving the way for a carbon-neutral future. The supplier is also exploring innovations with organic cotton grown using regenerative farming methods, expanding the scope for future eco-friendly concepts. Additionally, the fabric is dyed using biological dyes—an innovative technique where natural bacteria produce pigments that bond efficiently with the fabric a low temperatures without the use of petrochemicals. The fabric is available in pink and
sand.

Jury Statement: “This fabric takes this year’s focus topic to the next level! A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA’s fabric innovation showcases the future of dyeing with microorganisms. Textile dyeing with living organisms is a sustainable and resource-efficient method that requires no harmful chemicals. Additionally, the fabric, made from 100% organic cotton, excels in performance due to an innovative body-mapping concept that provides optimal support during wear.”

PERFORMANCE AWARD: Penn Textile Solutions GmbH / Penn Italia SRL / Article “13949” This fabric, composed of 68% recycled polyamide and 32% ROICA, with a weight of 290 grams, is perfect for baselayer construction. It can be customized with the brand’s own design, featuring open structures and a 3D effect for added texture. Despite its structure, the fabric has an incredibly soft touch, ensuring maximum comfort during wear. Jury Statement: “Penn Textiles was a popular vote, an award worthy of the jury. The fabric has a combination of high density opaque areas with lighter breathable panels. A superior choice for the Bodywear Category because of its customisable 3D design aesthetic, printable qualities and second skin super soft touch. The fabric blend of Roica yarn and recycled PA has many admirable qualities for next to skin, including anti-odor, quick dry and outstanding stretch and recovery to adapt to the body shape. Fabric, with a perfect fit for body contouring products including leggings, underwear and light support shapewear.”

DyStar, a specialty chemical company with a heritage of more than a century in product development and innovation, announced that they won the Champion Award for outstanding contribution and performance at the Adidas adiFormulator Award, an annual program launched in 2023.

Mrs. Fanny Vermandel, Vice President of Global Marketing Coloration at DyStar Group said, “DyStar is very pleased to receive the newly minted accolades from Adidas, as it further demonstrates our unwavering commitment to supporting the success of our customers, including brands and retailers, in their sustainability journey towards achieving their 2030 goal of 100% ZDHC MRSL Conformance.”

As a responsible leader in dyestuff and chemical manufacturer, DyStar offers over 2,100 products listed on the ZDHC Gateway that meet the ZDHC MRSL V3.1 specifications. Brands and Retailers and other stakeholders can leverage DyStar’s expertise to support their journey towards ZDHC MRSL conformance. To date, 99.7% of DyStar’s products listed on ZDHC have achieved the highest accreditation level of 3.

Smart Closet is an innovative event dedicated to new generation fashion where C.L.A.S.S and Equipe International, through the InsideOut approach by C.L.A.S.S., come together to represent a smart wardrobe - beautiful, innovative, responsible - together with a new language of values with the aim to share the fully transparent journey behind each product and company, to show their outer and inner values. All values and concepts that are part of Bemberg™ identity.

Bemberg™ is the brand name of the regenerated cellulose fiber cupro, produced only by Asahi Kasei in Japan. It is a special fiber with a circular economy footprint thanks to the fact that it is made from a regenerated cellulose obtained from the manufacturing process of cottonseed oil with a closed-loop process. It guarantees certified sustainability credentials through its transparent and traceable approach. It delivers high quality and versatile applications, comfortable whatever the season: its blissful sensation glides on linings, outerwear, underwear, sportswear and even couture pieces. All perfect characteristics that fit in Smart Closet initiative.

The project chosen to participate with is the incredible capsule collection A Dress For Venice designed by eco-designer Tiziano Guardini, illustrated by artist Jacopo Ascari, and produced by Martina Vidal Venezia, a Venetian brand that has enriched the garments with some elements in Burano lace, an ancient art candidate to enter the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity!
 
Inspired by the city of water, it’s made with Bemberg™ fabrics created by Infinity Srl with the textile printing done by Creazioni Digitali, which with the CreŌ | project  printed on Bemberg™ fabrics with low-water pigment inks technology . This collection truly represents and includes all the values of beauty, innovation and supply chain partnerships, all elements.

Utilizing renewable materials* and formaldehyde-free chemistries, the industry-first Archroma NTR Printing System combines newly created pigment black and customized auxiliaries for enhanced sustainability, comfort and durability
 
Archroma, a company in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, introduced the NTR Printing System to make bio-based pigment printing commercially possible for the first time. Based on renewable raw materials and designed for safer chemistry, it helps apparel and textile brands reduce their environmental footprint while producing brilliant black shades on garments that deliver both comfort and durability.

Bio-based pigment printing is an emerging technology that is attracting major interest from brands that want to use pigments derived from natural sources, such as plants, in the production of environmentally conscious textiles. Until now, however, bio-based pigments have not delivered color fastness that is comparable to synthetic pigments, and color quality and production performance have not been sufficient to support commercial-scale production.

Archroma’s NTR Printing System is the first to utilize renewable feedstock across pigment dispersion, binder and fixing agent. Crucially, it ensures good wet-rubbing and dry-rubbing fastness, with outstanding softness on all kinds of fabrics. Furthermore, it is suitable for most popular application technologies, including printing, coating and continuous pigment dyeing, with outstanding runnability for production efficiency.

“These properties make the new NTR Printing System ideal for the highly competitive denim market, where sustainability, comfort and durability are important; for knits, where very soft handfeel is essential; and on babywear, where both exceptional softness and safety are required,” Joaquin Femat, Market Segment Director for Printing, Archroma, said.

The result of more than two years of research and development, the innovative new NTR Printing System required Archroma to create customized binding and fixing agents to ensure fastness for the pigment black dispersion comparable to current petroleum-based printing systems. All three printing elements are partially based on renewable feedstock to reduce reliance on non-renewable petrochemicals. Archroma also developed the new system to avoid toxic input streams and impurities, including formaldehyde. Two successful bulk trials were conducted with Textprint S. A. and Jeanologia.

The NTR printing system comprises the following highly efficient and robust printing elements:

• PRINTOFIX® BLACK NTR-TF: A non-gelling pigment black with 79% renewable carbon content*, designed for use in textile applications with no impact on fastness levels.
• HELIZARIN® NTR-SS: A formaldehyde-free super-soft binder with 40% renewable carbon content, designed to ensure very good overall fastness levels.
• LUPRINTOL® FIXING AGENT NTR-HF: A formaldehyde-free fixing agent with 40% renewable carbon content**, designed for high wet fastness in rubbing and laundry.

All three elements are currently being evaluated for compliance with globally accepted standards like bluesign®, the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC). The system also supports major industry restricted substances list (RSL) requirements.

The ZEBRA (Zero wastE Blade ReseArch) project marks a significant leap forward in the recycling and circular economy for wind turbine blades. This collaborative effort demonstrates a breakthrough in the complete recycling of thermoplastic blades achieving significant environmental and economic benefits.

The ZEBRA project is a unique partnership led by the French Institute for Technological Research, IRT Jules Verne. Joining forces are industry leaders Arkema (resin supplier), Owens Corning (glass fiber supplier), LM Wind Power (blade manufacturer), SUEZ (dismantling and waste processing), CANOE R&D center (recycling technology), and ENGIE (life cycle analysis).

Each company played a crucial role in the development of the closed-loop recycling process:

• Arkema developed and validated the generation of recycled Elium® monomer through thermolysis, and, together with its subsidiary Bostik, an innovative adhesive for the blade assembly that is recycled together with Elium® paving the way for industrial-scale implementation.
• Owens Corning successfully recovered glass fiber at pilot scale, enabling its reintroduction into the production process for their Sustaina® product line.
• LM Wind Power manufactured two wind turbine blades with Arkema’s Elium® resin and Owens Corning’s Ultrablade® fabrics; one blade including a large structural element made with recycled Elium® resin.
• SUEZ provided cutting and grinding expertise for processing the blades.
• CANOE R&D center optimized recycling for production and carbon blade waste, additionally developing methods for repurposing waste streams through mechanical recycling.
• ENGIE conducted a comprehensive life cycle analysis demonstrating the environmental benefits of closed-loop ZEBRA blades and validated their economic viability.

A Sustainable Future for Wind Energy
The ZEBRA project successfully recycled Elium® resin and Ultrablade® fabrics from wind turbine blades and manufacturing waste, reformulating them back into usable materials. This closed-loop process addresses the growing challenge of end-of-life blade management within the wind energy industry.

• Recycled Elium® Monomer: Arkema achieved a yield of over 75% in the thermolysis process, paving the way for industrial-scale production of recycled resin.
• Recovered Glass Fiber: Owens Corning successfully retrieved glass fiber for remelting and reintegration into their Sustaina® product line.
• Life Cycle and Cost Analysis: ENGIE's study confirmed the significant environmental benefits and economic viability of ZEBRA blades when assuming a closed-loop recycling system from production to end-of-life.

ZEBRA blade using Elium® thermoplastic resin, Bostik’s highly compatible adhesive and Ultrablade® fabrics is bringing the best closed-loop recycling solution compared to traditional thermoset system. The operating cost and investments for recycling facility are significantly lowered. The CO2 emission linked to the recycling operations is reduced as well. All those results are making the closed-loop recycling solution of ZEBRA blades a viable option both on economic and environmental standpoints.

By demonstrating the feasibility of full wind turbine blade recycling, the ZEBRA project paves the way for a more sustainable future in the wind energy sector.

Specialty chemicals innovator Perstorp, a wholly owned subsidiary of PETRONAS Chemicals Group Berhad (PCG), received a platinum medal for being among the top 1 percent of companies assessed for sustainability by EcoVadis.

Perstorp progressed in all four assessed areas compared to the previous year; Environment, Labor & Human rights, Ethics and Sustainable Procurement.

Since its founding in 2007, EcoVadis has grown to become one of the world's largest and most trusted provider of business sustainability ratings, creating a global network of more than 130,000 rated companies. The EcoVadis sustainability assessment methodology is an evaluation of how well a company has integrated the principles of Sustainability/CSR into their business and management system. The methodology is built on international sustainability standards, including the Global Reporting Initiative, the United Nations Global Compact, and the ISO 26000, covering 220+ spend categories and 180+ countries.