From the Sector

Pili, a French pioneer in biobased dyes and pigments, partners with Orta, the Turkish denim mill and Citizens of Humanity, a California-based high-end denim brand known for its commitment to quality and sustainability.

They are beginning a transformative shift in the denim industry with the commercial launch of the first products dyed with Pili’s biobased indigo. The first products will debut in January in the Spring 2025 collections of Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE.

A New Ecological Standard for the Denim Industry
In 2024, Pili achieved a major milestone by producing its first tons of biobased indigo, enabling the creation of sustainable denim articles, a turning point in the company's efforts to decarbonize the textile industry especially denim.

Pili has developed unique processes combining fermentation and organic chemistry to offer a high-performance, eco-friendly alternative to petrochemical dyes. Their ecological alternative significantly reduces the use of toxic chemicals and fossil resources, while aiming to cut CO2 emissions up to 50%. It meets the same performance as petrochemical indigo while seamlessly integrating into existing dyeing processes without requiring additional investment in commercial dyeing equipment.

Pili’s colors development is based on standardized Life Cycle Assessments (LCAs), ensuring a rigorous process to measure and minimize their environmental impact.

A Partnership Driving Sustainable Transformation in the Industry
Fiber and dye are the two main components of denim products and also the ones with the greatest impact on their production. The partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Pili, and Orta establishes one of the highest ecological standards in the market with the use of regenerative cotton and biobased indigo.

Pili biobased indigo will make its debut in Citizens of Humanity and AGOLDE’s Spring 2025 collections. This long-term partnership between Citizens of Humanity, Orta, and Pili will continue to expand in future collections. The launch will be exclusive on NET-A-PORTER on January 6, 2025, before being extended to agolde.com, citizensofhumanity.com, and other global retailers.

A Key Step Towards the Decarbonization of the Color Industry
Building on this first success, Pili is accelerating the development of coloring solutions for various industrial applications, particularly in the inks, paints, and polymers sectors. The aim is to decarbonize everyday products using high-performance biobased pigments, with the first applicative tests set to begin this year. Pili continues its mission to decarbonize the color industry, paving the way for a sustainable revolution.

Polartec®, a Milliken™ & Company brand and creator of innovative textile solutions for future thinking, introduces Product, the third and final chapter in Polartec’s multifaceted Beyond Begins Today mini-series.

Beyond Begins Today looks at how Polartec fabrics are made to last, and to be used and enjoyed from one generation to the next and beyond. It explores the innovative monomaterials, repurposed plastic and the plant-based nylon membranes that Polartec uses to set new standards for high performance fabrics; the ambitious climate-related objectives across the entire value chain that exceed existing mandates. Such a holistic strategy allows Polartec to stay at the forefront of its industry by producing top-notch textiles that champion environmental stewardship and pave the way for a more sustainable tomorrow.

Within the rich tapestry of Polartec’s legacy, threads of innovation weave together the past, present, and future. From its humble origins as pioneers of synthetic fleece to bold strides into new realms, Polartec represents the promise of harmony between creation and care; touching lives while honoring the earth.

Product, the final installment of Beyond Begins Today, features Paul Cosgrove (Chief Product Officer, Mammut), Sachiye Koide, (Mountaineer & Product Engineer), and Eric Yung (Managing Director of Polartec). Through a discussion that begins with a reverent nod to the iconic designs of brands like Mammut and the pioneers who wore them, Chapter 3 leads into the soul of the great outdoors. From a celebration of the gear that binds lives to landscapes, and passions to purpose, it looks at a legacy that connects Polartec’s promise to enhance lives to the enduring strength of its textile solutions.

The Autumn/Winter '25 edition of Scoop returns to Olympia West, Kensington, from 9–11 February 2025, bringing London’s largest and most anticipated curated showroom event back into the spotlight. Under the expert curation of Founder and Managing Director Karen Radley, this season promises a fresh roster of talent, featuring exciting new faces among the line-up of international designers and lifestyle brands, all carefully selected to captivate buyers and visitors in an intimate and contemporary setting.

Founded in Paris in 2017, Artlove is set to present a vibrant collection that cultivates the spontaneity of a feminine and easy-to-wear aesthetic. Committed to meticulous craftsmanship, Artlove’s clothes are inspired by the vivacious spirit of creativity, for a wardrobe imagined in Paris and to be enjoyed joyfully everywhere. Their dresses, knitwear and separates are designed in a palette of options to reflect individual personality. Each outfit is a work of art in itself, ready to be styled according to the wearer’s mood.

Also making its debut at Scoop is iconic Spanish streetwear brand Loreak Mendian. Founded in Donostia over 25 years ago, Loreak Mendian means “flowers in the mountains”, and is faithful to its roots today by advocating for the power of design to create timeless and durable pieces. Driven by culture, their collections are inspired by artistic expressions; music, art, and graphic design, balance practicality with style, offering versatile urban apparel for both men and women that embodies the spirit of sustainability.

ALIX the Label, renowned for its luxurious take on wardrobe essentials, will also be showing for the first time. Designed ‘for those with a hint of rock and roll in their DNA’, this season’s highlights include leopard-print dresses paired with crisp sneakers for a laid-back look, and bold oversized blazers that can be styled with sky-high heels for a night out.

Orfeo Paris will unveil a collection that effortlessly blends structured tailoring with dreamy feminine charm. Expect tailored blazers, chic dresses, and cosy knitwear designed with precision and a keen eye for detail. Each piece captures the essence of Parisian sophistication while remaining approachable and practical for everyday wear.

For buyers seeking new jewellery designers, Love Letter’s latest collection, The Divine Feminine, is an ode to feminine power and mystique. The line features striking jewellery pieces that harmonise celestial and earthly elements, with gemstones like rainbow moonstones, copper turquoise, malachite, amethyst, and carnelian taking centre stage. Also debuting, The Little Words Project is known for its handcrafted beaded bracelets featuring inspirational phrases. These customisable accessories promote kindness and positivity, encouraging wearers to “pay it forward” by gifting them to friends or loved ones in need of encouragement.

Travaux en Cours is set to impress with its chic and functional range of bags and hats.  Designed in France and woven in Italy, their unisex hats, crafted from durable woven paper that
mimics straw, are available in a variety of colours, making them an ideal addition to any wardrobe.

Other new designers poised to catch buyers’ attention include My Beachy Side, Artemis Muse, Fancy Palas, Mirto, and Sunny Studio. Scoop favourites, such as Cocoa Cashmere, Dr. Bloom, Dream Catchers, Sophie + Lucie, Sofie Schnoor, Quinton Chadwick, Mou, Eribe, Dedicated, and Dr. Denim, will showcase their latest collections. Meanwhile, returning brands Dixie, Pom Amsterdam, Vilagallo, Nooki, Humility, and FRNCH promise to delight with their distinctive offerings.

Haelixa has partnered with C&A, one of Europe’s leading fashion retailers, to advance the traceability of its organic cotton. The partnership stems from C&A’s commitment to working with others in the apparel industry to pilot and scale innovation. C&A’s targets include supporting the growth of organic cotton without synthetic pesticides and fertilisers, resulting in cleaner waterways, healthier ecosystems, and lower farmer costs.
 
The partnership between Haelixa and C&A began in 2022 with a pilot project, and since then, they have continuously worked together to trace raw materials. The result is this agreement with Haelixa to mark their organic cotton for the next three years. Using Haelixa’s DNA markers, C&A can trace the journey of its organic cotton from farm to finished garment. According to the C&A Sustainability Report, they are working with other organisations to foster organic cotton farming.  
 
Alexandre Saus-Salas, Head of Sourcing at C&A, commented, “Transparency and ethical sourcing are crucial in our supply chain. As part of our commitment to traceability, we have begun implementing Haelixa DNA within our organic supply chain. This gradual rollout will continue over multiple seasons in 2025, with an impact foreseen over the next three years.”
 
Haelixa’s solution utilises DNA markers to create a tamper-proof, verifiable traceability that tracks organic cotton throughout the supply chain. The cotton, sourced through CottonConnect, is marked with unique DNA, which acts as a specific identifier. Once applied, the cotton is tested throughout the supply chain to verify the material using forensic PCR tests. Traceability with the fiber-forward approach ensures the final garment materials are authentic.  
 
The marking ensures the authenticity of organic cotton and mitigates the risk of sourcing from regions associated with forced labour.  Using the Haelixa markers enables C&A to make reliable statements about the presence of organic cotton in its products marked at the field level (in the ginning process).
 
Patrick Strumpf, CEO of Haelixa, noted, “Trust is the foundation of transparent storytelling. By tracing organic cotton from farm to finished garment, we empower brands like C&A to tell an authentic story, fostering greater consumer confidence in their sustainability efforts.”
 
This project is one of the initiatives that C&A has undertaken to enhance accountability through its supply chain. One of the goals listed in their Sustainability Report is enabling customers to make informed choices by increasing transparency around products and the company. The traceability of organic cotton demonstrates that innovation can support business success through customer trust.

Inspired by Inditex, the CHT Group developed PIGMENTURA by CHT, an innovative and sustainable pigment-based dyeing process that reduces water consumption in the dyeing process by up to 96 % and 60 % of energy compared to other continuous dyeing processes.

On December 2nd, 2024 the pigment-based dyeing process PIGMENTURA of CHT Germany GmbH was awarded with the German Ecodesign Award in the Product category.

The German Ecodesign Award honors designers, companies and students from Germany and Europe whose work make an important contribution to the sustainable transformation of the German economy and society. The award has been granted annually since 2012 by the German Ministry for the Environment and the German Environment Agency in cooperation with the International Design Center Berlin.

Dr. Annegret Vester, Chief Sustainability Officer at CHT, about PIGMENTURA:
“PIGMENTURA is an example of how completely new processes can be developed when existing processes are being rethought: The starting point was traditional pigment dyeing where the pigments have to be “bound” to the textile using special components. PIGMENTURA follows the idea of adsorbing pigments on the surface and thus simplifying the process.

It was a highlight when it became clear what great savings potential can be achieved in the dyeing process with PIGMENTURA. The classic reactive dyeing of textiles is associated with very high energy and water consumption.

There were numerous obstacles to overcome during the development phase, as each individual process step had to be developed to process maturity. Added to this is the diversity of textiles, which leads to significant changes in dyeing behavior, which we have now been able to standardize with PIGMENTURA.“

PIGMENTURA by CHT is already in use in the fashion industry worldwide.

TrusTrace, a global company with a market-leading platform for product traceability and supply chain compliance in fashion and retail, announced that TWINSET, a high-end Italian fashion brand, has selected their platform to help identify suppliers, support eco-design initiatives, and measure each product’s environmental impact.

TWINSET was established in Carpi (Modena) in 1987. The collections, which initially focused on sophisticated knitwear, expanded over the years to offer, through apparel and accessories, a total look for women and girls.

With a three-year roadmap, results will be reached progressively by scaling-up to ultimately trace the full range of product categories and suppliers. Key objectives are to identify material country of origin, manage supply-chain risk such as forced labour, and enable eco-design by assessing the environmental impact of the product. To support the environmental impact initiative, TrusTrace partnered with a leading life cycle assessment (LCA) solution Peftrust, which feeds traceability data directly to the LCA solution to get the most precise PEF (Product Environmental Footprint) scoring.

This strategic initiative has especially helped support TWINSET to prepare for incoming regulations such as Digital Product Passports (DPPs) which will be mandatory on textiles sold in Europe by 2030, as well as the Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive (CSRD), which requires companies to report on their environmental and social impact.

International technology group ANDRITZ has received an engineering order from US textile recycling innovator Circ in anticipation of its first large-scale textile recycling plant. The plant will be the first to recover cotton and polyester from blended textile waste.

Circ® is a pioneering company focused on sustainable solutions for the fashion industry. By converting fashion waste into reusable raw materials for fabrics, Circ reduces the need for petroleum and natural resources. The company’s mission is to build a truly circular economy to protect the planet from the cost of clothing.

ANDRITZ has been successfully conducting trials for Circ at the ANDRITZ Fiber R&D Center in Springfield, Ohio, USA, for several years. The successful partnership and recent developments have led to the decision to expand this cooperation.

The majority of fashion waste consists of polyester-cotton blends, which poses a significant challenge to achieving greater circularity. In particular, the separation of cellulosic and synthetic fibers from textile waste has been a major obstacle. Circ’s innovative recycling process can break down polycotton textile waste into its original components – polyester and cotton. The forthcoming plant will process 200 tons of textile waste per day, allowing cotton to be recycled for lyocell production and polyester to be reused for polyester production. This will reduce the need for virgin raw materials.

Conor Hartman, Chief Operating Officer at Circ, says: “We remain excited about this continued collaboration with ANDRITZ. Together, we will commercialize Circ’s innovative recycling process and take another step towards a truly circular fashion industry. With its expertise in engineering and building large-scale process equipment, ANDRITZ is the right partner to help us transform textile waste into recycled fibers on an industrial level.

Michael Waupotitsch, Vice President Textile Recycling at ANDRITZ, comments: “We are eager to support Circ in their vision of circularity because the technology they have developed is uniquely suited to solve one of the biggest challenges in fashion waste and recycling. With our holistic knowledge in resizing, mechanical separation, hydrothermal processing, recovery of cellulosic pulp as well as pulp cleaning and pulp drying, we have the right expertise to help them achieve their goals. Our experience in process development and machinery will help bring their innovative recycling technology to life.”

Unveiled at the forthcoming Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris trade fair, from 10 to 12 February at the Paris-Le-Bourget Exhibition Centre, the trend book for the Spring-Summer 2026 season opens up new creative worlds where emotion attempts to regain the upper hand over pure materials.

Entitled Néocène, the new forward-looking journey proposed by Louis Gérin and Grégory Lamaud, the artistic directors of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, explores a world undergoing profound change. Conceived against a backdrop of severe economic, social and environmental tensions, this document is the result of cross-referencing and analysing emerging signals detected and interpreted by a panel of stylists, designers, graphic artists, authors and scenographers. In four major themes, it sets out an aesthetic framework to help fashion designers and buyers develop their spring-summer 2026 collections.

1 wardrobe, 4 universes
A new era without humans, the Néocène is a clean slate, an indefinable horizon that obeys only the laws of physics. New shapes, new colours: each theme in this trend book reflects a creative universe organised around specific materials and 3 “star colours” in 6 intermediate shades. Presented in the introduction, these colours provide a glimpse of the palette for the collections to come.

#1 Quantum.
In this universe of atoms, everything is just energy, chance and freedom. This first proposal plunges back into the heart of substance with fluid, heated and incandescent materials, on the edge of solid and liquid. The soft textures and expanded forms are particularly at home here, and express themselves in a radiant, sunny colour system: spicy flavours, tones of tan and caramel are very present.

#2 Gravity.
“The structure of the universe [...] An invisible interdependence.” This theme plays on the multiple meanings of gravity: a heaviness that is both physical and emotional. Mineral and sandy materials, repetitive or sequential geometrical patterns, all find their place here, as do aqueous aspects and biomimetic and animal-inspired forms. The colour palette here is clearly diaphanous and serious, natural and diffuse.

#3 Relativity.
This proposition should be seen as a deepening of the previous theme, until the propositions are reversed: “Ugly has become beautiful [...] Stillness accelerates”. A world of oxymorons in which graphic motifs express a mummified vegetal world, supported by lines shaped like imprints, draped textures, embroideries intended as traces of an anterior world. The colours are those of ash, tattoo ink, animal... The blues and mauves are dark and intense.

#4 Magnetism.
In stark contrast to the other universes, this axis exalts order and renewal, and brings lightness, even fragility, to the creative approach. Transparency is assertive, as are floral motifs and curved, ample and comfortable lines. The colour palette is in tune with the emotion of the theme: marshmallows, sweet flavours, peach and blush pink are at the heart of the theme.

A new layout to maximize synergies
The return of the Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris shows to Halls 2, 3 and 4 of the Paris-Le-Bourget Exhibition Centre is accompanied by an exciting new space organisation to make the buying experience even more efficient and inspiring. At the heart of hall 2, the Trends Forum will captivate visitor with its four dynamic themes, and will also house all key services, including the Agora for engaging conferences and lively round-table discussions, as well as inviting restaurants. In terms of products and services, some Texworld and Apparel Sourcing sectors have been brought together to promote synergies, with coherent areas devoted to women's clothing (Hall 4) and outdoor-sportswear-casualwear (Hall 3). This layout not only makes the Apparel Sourcing offering easier to navigate but also optimises the entire sourcing process, providing a more streamlined and productive experience.

• Considering that 2024 summer discounts have increased compared to the previous year (+6%), even sharper price cuts are expected for Black Friday and Cyber Monday
• Outerwear: the growing popularity of suede garments suggests that brands should focus their discounts on other outerwear, such as down jackets
• Sneakers: basic and slim-fit models are selling out quickly, while those with a more structured fit are experiencing slower turnover

With Black Friday and Cyber Monday just around the corner, fashion brands are called upon to make conscious and targeted decisions to remain competitive during this peak season. In this context, Lectra, a leader in Industry 4.0 within the fashion, automotive and furniture sectors, leveraged real-time data from Retviews – its AI-powered solution for automated market intelligence to offer insights on increasing sales, reducing stocks and boosting profitability. These tips aim to guide brands in developing the most effective discount strategies based on key fashion trends for the year’s most popular shopping period.

Discounts: marked reductions are expected, but targeted at specific categories
For brands, preparing year-end discounts require careful planning to align with consumer preferences. The summer sales period, which represents the highest sales peak before winter promotions, serves as a valuable indicator. AI-based solutions, such as Retviews, are useful to identify and track items that only sell with discounts versus those with high sell-through rates and regular restocking. This allows brands to pinpoint when and where discounts are necessary, optimizing inventory and maximizing profitability.

In particular, Retviews data shows that summer discounts in Europe increased by 6% in 2024 compared to the previous year, suggesting even sharper price cuts for Black Friday and Cyber Monday.

In 2023 the average discount rate slightly decreased compared to 2022 (35% vs 37%); however, weaker summer sales this year indicate a greater quantity of products in stock, which may prompt brands to increase their reductions (following a trend that had already established itself in the United States in 2023, when discount rates had risen to 40%, compared to 37% in 2022).
Strategic and targeted price reductions, however, will help brands maintain margins while also meeting the demands from fashion enthusiasts. So, which product categories are likely to see the most significant discounts?
 
Autumn jackets: full price for suede outerwear, discounts on down jackets
In the autumn-winter season, outerwear is at the heart of collections, with this year's styles ranging from denim and leather to suede. Suede stands out as a premium, on-trend fabric with high consumer demand. For instance, in ZARA's latest collection, suede jackets quickly became bestsellers, with the brand’s blazers consistently selling out and being restocked, despite their premium pricing.
 
The popularity of suede highlights its potential as a full-price item, allowing brands to focus discounts on other pieces and prioritize full-price sales for trend-driven items. Classic and timeless styles continue to dominate, from tailored blazers to sophisticated silhouettes seen in prêt-à-porter, premium, and luxury collections. Meanwhile, down jackets, which are a key part of the Gorpcore trend, could now be considered a less promising investment for brands and may therefore see deeper discounts this Black Friday.

Sneakers: slim fits are bestsellers, while running shoes see lower demand
When it comes to sneakers, there has been a surge in popularity for classic, aerodynamic styles, with consumers gravitating towards slim and basic models inspired by Adidas classics such as Sambas, Gazelles, and Spezials. These slimmer, retro-inspired models are selling out quickly, while more structured sneakers appear to have slower turnover rates. According to Retviews data, retro and colorful sneakers have become bestsellers in brand collections from Adidas, Puma and Zara. On the other hand, bulkier, running-style sneakers are experiencing lower demand, with larger stock levels. Consequently, these items may be subject to special discounts.

Active Apparel Group (AAG), manufacturer of performance apparel for the leisure/lifestyle and active market, has attained B Corp Certification, solidifying their role as one of a select few pioneers in environmental, social, and governance (ESG) practices for their industry, customers, and partners.

AAG achieved a score of 84.9 points on the rigorous B Impact Assessment (BIA), exceeding the 80-point threshold required for B Corp certification. This demonstrates Active Apparel Group's dedication to workers, customers, community, and the environment, all part of the brand’s dedication to using business as a force for good.

The strongest areas represented in this score were Governance (17.6 pts), Workers (24.9 pts) and Customers (4.1 pts), which are significantly higher vs country, sector, and size benchmarks for similar B Corp certified companies.

A highlight of Active Apparel Group's certification was the achievement of hard-to-earn Impact Business Model (IBM) points for their practices in Toxin Reduction / Remediation. This recognition highlights AAG’s deep commitment to reducing harmful chemicals in their production processes through the use of 100% OEKO-TEX certified inks and responsible chemical management practices.

AAG already pays all workers a living wage. In 2023, an audit by third-party Bureau Veritas of AAG’s factory in China, Ningbo Longson Garments Co. Ltd (Longson), confirmed a 100% pass rate. Employees received wages exceeding the calculated living wage, 29% above the local minimum wage and 140% greater than the poverty line in Ningbo. Remuneration at this level remains a rarity in the manufacturing industry in China.

AAG has also committed to a structured approach in reducing its environmental impact across its global operations through an Environmental Management System (EMS). The EMS, built using the ISO14001 Standard Framework, incorporates key environmental policy commitments and has set targets and strategies to reduce the carbon footprint of its operations across China, Australia and the USA.

B Corp certification places AAG’s environmental, social, and governance practices in the company of a select few manufacturers in the performance apparel manufacturing industry, giving all AAG customers the confidence that they are partnering with a global leader in this space