From the Sector

A collaboration that unites Monforts’ dyeing and finishing equipment, BW Converting’s Baldwin TexCoat G4™ digital spray technology and Archroma’s chemistries towards sustainable solutions is charting the course for the future of sustainable textile finishing.

Together, the three companies will support dyeing and finishing manufacturers, a critical part of the textile supply chain, in their development projects, boosting the quality and performance of their finished products, while at the same time maximizing the productivity and resource utilization of the finishing application process.  

Kicking off the partnership in the second half of this year, Monforts will install BW Converting’s full-width Baldwin TexCoat digital spray unit on a stenter frame at its Advanced Technology Center (ATC) at its headquarters in Mönchengladbach, Germany.

“Our ATC already houses two full Montex stenter finishing lines engineered to accommodate an extremely diverse range of processes, in addition to a Thermex range for the continuous dyeing of denim and other woven fabrics, a full color kitchen and a number of lab-scale systems for smaller batch trials,” explained Monforts Junior Technologist Saskia Kuhlen. “It enables our customers to test their own textiles and technical fabrics under fully confidential, real production conditions and using the results from these trials we are also able to make recommendations for improving many fabric finishes. The new TexCoat installation will make an important contribution to what we can achieve.”
 
TexCoat G4 revolutionizes the traditional water- and energy-intensive pad-dry-cure finishing process by precisely applying chemistry including softeners, antimicrobials, durable water repellents, flame retardants, resins and most other water-based chemicals across the textile surface only where it is required, on one or both sides of the fabric. The system can therefore reduce water, chemistry and energy consumption by up to 50% compared to traditional pad application processes.

The TexCoat G4 installation brings together the surface functions, fabric transport and thermal processing technology of Monforts stenter frames with Archroma’s specialty chemicals, applied with TexCoat’s contactless precision, to achieve optimum absorption and maximum efficacy, exceeding the performance of traditional pad applications.

“Archroma’s commitment to advancing sustainability solutions for technical textiles has led to a pivotal partnership with Baldwin, where the benefits of contactless precision spray combined with our innovative solutions have helped textile manufacturers achieve greater energy and water savings,” said Michael Schuhmann, Global Marketing Segment Manager for Technical Textiles, Archroma Textile Effects. “We are thrilled to take the partnership to the next level with the integration of a renowned equipment expert. Together, we will bring the best of our expertise in sustainable technologies to our customers around the world.”

“Baldwin has enjoyed a great relationship with Monforts and Archroma over the last few years,” added Rick Stanford, Baldwin’s Vice-President of Business Development for Textiles “Individually, we are working hard to assist our customers to achieve their sustainability and environmental targets but this is the first time the three companies have committed to working together with a focus on bringing transformative change to the dyeing and finishing space. It will result in significantly lower energy, chemical and water consumption with increased productivity and higher quality.  We strongly believe that this partnership will be greater than the sum of its parts.”

Beyond textile finishing, Monforts, Baldwin and Archroma will work together to develop a versatile offering that will include coloration concepts and in the not-too-distant future the partners additionally plan to expand their collaboration to continuous spray dye applications developed by Baldwin.

Dow has announced the launch of DOWSIL™ IE-9100 Emulsion for durable water repellent (DWR) finishing, the latest addition to the Dow Ecolibrium™ Brand portfolio, as a product for high-performing water repellent fabrics.

An 81% bio-based silicone-organic hybrid formulation honored with both the R&D 100 Award and the SEAL Sustainable Product Award, DOWSIL™ IE-9100 Emulsion is designed to match the water repellency performance of fluoro-containing emulsions, making it a good option for high-performance outerwear fabrics, including athleticwear, outdoor garments and equipment, personal protective equipment, and footwear.

DOWSIL™ IE-9100 Emulsion offers formulators and brand owners key performance advantages expected of performance apparel and technical textiles, including the ability to tailor the level of water repellency to match the specific end-use needs. It also boasts excellent water-based stain protection and color fastness as well as good tape adhesion and logo printability. It can be applied across a wide range of fibers, both natural and synthetic, and helps maintain the breathability of fabrics and membranes to maximize comfort. Additionally, it is compatible with standard manufacturing processes, allowing for ease of use for finishing mills and is certified OEKO-TEX® ECO PASSPORT.

On October 10th at 10 a.m. CEST / 4 p.m. CST, Isabelle Riff, along with Yusuke Kuwana and Jacob Milne, Dow Scientist, Textiles, will present the specifics of this new product during a dedicated webinar titled “Advancing textiles’ durable water repellency with silicone hybrid, bio-based technology.”

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announces the release of the International Fiber Journal’s (IFJ) special sustainability issue dedicated to nonwovens. This special edition, which was sponsored by INDA, is a key piece of the association’s 2024 strategic sustainability initiative, launched at the beginning of 2024 in response to feedback that sustainability remains one of the nonwovens industry’s highest priorities.

The IFJ special issue features exclusive content from industry leaders, including Kimberly-Clark Corporation, Glatfelter, Lenzing Fibers, NatureWorks LLC, Hollingsworth & Vose, MANN+HUMMEL, Nexus Circular, Henkel Corporation, and INDA. This edition explores key sustainability topics, structured around three core pillars vital to the industry’s future: Responsible Sourcing, Innovations in Sustainability, and End-of-Life Solutions. Featured topics include:

• Environmentally sustainable nonwoven materials
• Circularity in single-use plastics
• Potential of post-consumer recycled (PCR) materials in nonwovens
• Navigating regulatory challenges
• Advances in bio-based nonwovens
• The role of plastics and polymers in sustainability

“This special issue of the International Fiber Journal is a vital part of our multi-faceted sustainability initiative aimed at providing new and enhanced offerings to INDA members and the nonwovens industry. We are excited to see the industry come together to share insights on the sustainability challenges we face,” said Tony Fragnito, President of INDA.

Protective gloves, such as those used for work, sport or household gardening, retrieve their protective function from a special coating. This coating provides abrasion resistance, makes the material waterproof and resistant to chemicals or oil, and even protects against cuts and punctures. Until now, coatings made of oil-based polymers, nitrile rubber or latex have been the main materials used. Scientists at the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) have succeeded in developing a robust yet flexible glove coating using environmentally friendly lignin in a 3D printing process.

Coatings that are subject to mechanical stress always suffer from a certain degree of abrasion that is dispersed in the surrounding area. This is also the case with coated protective gloves. In order to avoid long-term pollution of the environment, materials should be used whose abrasion particles are biodegradable. The aim of the research project was to improve conventional protective equipment and integrate more sustainable materials.

The biopolymer lignin is a natural component of plant cells that is produced in large quantities as a by-product of paper manufacturing. Due to its properties, it represents an environmentally friendly alternative to oil-based coating polymers.

The scientists developed biopolymer compounds containing lignin, which were used to produce thermoplastic materials that can be processed using 3D printing.

Lignin has few polar groups, which makes lignins hydrophobic and therefore insoluble in water. For this reason, they biodegrade slowly. This makes them particularly suitable for durable coating materials.

Despite this durability, lignin particles that are released into the environment through abrasion biodegrade faster than the abrasion of conventional coatings. This is due to the much higher surface/volume ratio.

The use of 3D printing makes it possible to produce the coating precisely and efficiently. The 3D printing process also makes it possible to adapt the glove to the individual needs of the wearer. This increases wearer comfort and promotes freedom of movement.

The research project shows that the use of lignin not only offers ecological benefits, but that protective gloves coated with it are also particularly durable and resistant. They meet safety standards and at the same time contribute to sustainability in the world of work.

On gardening gloves, uniform sleeves or work or sports trousers – elasticated woven waistbands are often used in places where people are active for many hours. The skin is often exposed to heat, UV light and other irritants. In addition to workwear and sportswear, orthoses, prostheses and exoskeletons are often worn next to the skin. Jumbo-Textil's elasticated woven tape not only offers a high level of comfort, it also protects the skin from these stressors.

„At work, in rehabilitation applications or during sport – activities where textiles are worn directly on the skin require particularly skin-friendly products,“ emphasises Jean Poburski, Sales Manager Technical Branches. “Our narrow textiles – such as our Velcro® elasticated belt – are therefore tested and certified in accordance with the particularly strict Oeko-Tex® 100 PK I standards.“

specifications for narrow textiles:

• STANDARD 100 OEKO-TEX®, product class I
• Skin protection layer on both sides- Anti-slip insert on the upper side
• Soft surface
• Permeable to air
• Flexible at low temperatures
• Resistant to salt and chlorinated water
• Low nitrosamine
• Formaldehyde-free finish

eVent Fabrics, a company in waterproof and breathable technologies, is looking to the future and offering their partner brands eVent BIO and eVent alpineST technologies. Both are made without PFAS and are compliant with regulations requiring the removal of PFAS chemicals from many consumer products.

eVent BIO
eVent BIO is a bio-based membrane technology that uses sustainable materials to provide all-weather protection and performance. At the laminate technology’s core are renewable plant-based and biomass elements paired with smartly-sourced or recycled face and backer fabrics. Light, tough and flexible, eVent BIO has a reduced carbon footprint and is recyclable when it reaches the end of its lifecycle.

alpineST
alpineST is a sustainable alternative to ePTFE products that provides waterproofness, breathability, and protection in the harshest environments. Created with the planet in mind, alpineST products are built around a fluorine-free membrane laminated to recycled face fabrics. With an initial waterproofness of 25K, alpineST maintains a water column of 20K after dozens of washes.

Salzburg Research and the University of Salzburg developed an intelligent firefighter jacket on behalf of the fire service supplier Texport GmbH. Sensors built into the jacket report impending overheating and immediately initiate countermeasures. The prototype has now been successfully tested in the fire simulation system under real conditions.

Firefighting operations are very demanding: high temperatures, heavy protective clothing, physical exertion, and psychological stress put an enormous burden on the emergency services. If it gets too hot in the suit, heat stress occurs when the core body temperature reaches around 38.5° Celsius. Those affected are more willing to take risks, more impulsive, may make wrong decisions, and overestimate their physical capabilities. In extreme cases, firefighters can collapse.

Salzburg Research worked with the University of Salzburg to find ways to automatically avoid heat stress. The first step was to identify the critical point at which firefighters are at risk of overheating. To do this, sensors were integrated into the jacket to measure sweat and humidity. In an initial laboratory study, 19 participants were subjected to physical stress tests in full gear. The optimal sensors and their placement were determined in order to reliably determine heat stress. The algorithm developed now recognizes the point at which it becomes too hot for firefighters.

A cooling system was then installed in the jacket lining to improve the vital parameters and well-being of the firefighters and increase the safety of operations. The innovative air cooling system sparingly uses the air that firefighters carry in an additional compressed air cylinder.

Prototypes of the fire jacket were tested in the summer under real conditions in the fire simulation system. Twelve firefighters completed a simulated fire mission with and without the cooling system. Sensor data and feedback confirmed the effectiveness of the system.

The research work was funded as a cross-state cooperation within the framework of the WISS2025 strategy of the state of Salzburg.

Ontex Group NV announces the launch of enhanced youth pants this fall. The pants are designed to reduce the psychological impact of incontinence during adolescence, offering protection and discretion.

The new Ontex youth pants are tailored for children aged 3 to 15 who struggle with bladder control at night, despite staying dry during the day, or have some disability leading to loss of bladder control.

The pants are produced by Ontex plants using its growing HappyFit product platform and will be available through retailers and Ontex’s online sales channels in Europe, with room for expansion to other regions. The pants are constructed combining absorbent materials for heavy bedwetting protection, a chassis with soft and quiet materials for discretion that also offers an improved fit. The production will also have a significantly lower impact on the environment vs previous concepts. During the production, waste is also minimized.

Bedwetting is a common issue, affecting many children. Research^[1] shows that 15% of children still wet the bed in primary school, with boys significantly more likely to experience incontinence. Bedwetting mainly occurs at night and is the second most common chronic childhood condition after allergic disorders. Factors contributing to bedwetting include sleep arousal difficulties, nocturnal polyuria (excessive nighttime urine production), and bladder dysfunction.

[1] https://www.abct.org/fact-sheets/bed-wetting/

Freudenberg Performance Materials Apparel (Freudenberg Apparel) announced the production opening of its state thermal insulation factory located in Long Thanh District, Vietnam. This facility specializes in the production of comfortemp®, Freudenberg’s renowned high-performance thermal insulation material, designed to elevate fashion and sportswear apparel.

This additional new factory extends Freudenberg Apparel's thermal insulation production across key Asian markets, including the Chinese mainland and South Korea. It also significantly strengthens Freudenberg Apparel’s global production capabilities and supply network. This expansion will bolster the company's competitive edge in Asia and reaffirms its ongoing dedication to innovation and evolution within the apparel industry.

"By localizing the production of our thermal insulation materials in Vietnam, we are not only reducing lead times for our customers but also streamlining the supply chain, ensuring we continue to deliver exceptional value for customers," stated John McNabb, Chief Technology Officer at Freudenberg Performance Materials. The Vietnamese facility is equipped to produce sustainable thermal insulations, providing customers with options that align with their sustainable garment production initiatives and goals.

The current European Football Championships 2024 in Germany will be played on natural turf, which is very costly to maintain, does not tolerate high frequency of use and has a limited service life of only 6 months in some cases. Artificial turf is easier to maintain and correspondingly popular. In Germany, there are estimated to be more than 5,000 artificial turf pitches and as many as 25,500 across the EU. The drawback: the enormous annual emission of microplastics in the form of infill material, the high CO2 impact and the not environmentally friendly disposal. Researchers in Aachen presented a sustainable alternative: BioTurf is a new artificial turf system made from bio-based polymers that no longer requires polymer infill material!

"Every year, around 500 kilograms of plastic granules are produced per artificial turf pitch, which have to be refilled as infill. This also corresponds to the amount that potentially enters the environment as microplastics per sports pitch," explains Dr Claudia Post from TFI. With an estimated 25,000 artificial turf pitches in the EU, artificial turf in Europe alone produces 12,750 tonnes of microplastics that end up in the environment every year! The TFI - Institut für Bodensysteme an der RWTH Aachen e.V., Institute for Research, Testing and Certification in Europe for Indoor Building Products, has developed the innovative artificial turf system together with the ITA (Institute for Textile Technology at RWTH Aachen University) and in collaboration with the company Morton Extrusionstechnik (MET), a specialist in artificial turf fibres.

"New artificial turf pitches will be phased out by 2031 at the latest due to the ban on plastic granules. Even now, artificial turf pitches with infill material are no longer being subsidised," says Dr Claudia Post. For grassroots sports, clubs, cities and local authorities, converting their existing artificial turf pitches will be a mammoth task in the coming years, as artificial turf pitches have to be replaced every 10-15 years. With BioTurf, an environmentally friendly alternative is now available! The surface can be played on like any other, whether running, passing or kicking. Short, heavily crimped blades support longer blades and this simple approach increases playing comfort. BioTurf fulfils all quality requirements and standards for the highest footballing demands.

"BioTurf is an innovative, holistic solution," emphasises Dirk Hanuschik from TFI. "We use rapeseed oil and agricultural waste that does not compete with food production. BioTurf is also almost completely recyclable".
This is in stark contrast to conventional artificial turf, which can currently only be thermally utilised, i.e. burned to generate heat.

As BioTurf does not require the traditional latex process at all, the energy-intensive drying process can be dispensed with, which has a positive effect on the price. Latex is also difficult to recycle. In contrast, BioTurf uses the new thermobonding technology. Here, the thermoplastic pile yarns are thermally fused to the backing. Further development steps still need to be taken in the endeavour to develop a 100% mono-material artificial turf, as a few percent polypropylene still needs to be processed in the backing in addition to the polyethylene fibre material in order to protect it during thermobonding. However, this does not hinder its recyclability.