From the Sector

Europe’s textile sorting and recycling industry is currently experiencing an unprecedented crisis, even more significant than during the COVID-19 pandemic. The sector is under immense pressure due to several global disruptions, including the war in Ukraine, logistical challenges in Africa, and the rise of ultra-fast fashion.

As a result, there is an oversupply of used textiles and a sharp decline in demand from traditional export markets. The trade in used textiles between the EU and non-EU decreased from 464,993 tonnes in 2022 to 430,185 tonnes in 2023. Looking at Germany alone, the exports of used textiles to Ghana (one of Europe’s key export markets) have decreased from 7911.2 tonnes in 2020 to 4532.9 tonnes in 2023. Additionally, demand for recycled materials remains low: recycled cotton had an estimated production volume of 319 000 tonnes in 2023 (compared to 24.4 million tonnes of virgin cotton) globally.

Consequently, prices for second-hand textiles have plummeted, while the costs of collection, sorting, and recycling have skyrocketed. Since spring 2024, the prices for sorted second-hand garments no longer cover processing costs, leading to major cash flow problems for sorting operators. Warehouses are becoming overwhelmed, increasing the risk of textile waste being incinerated.

In a joint statement EuRIC Textiles and Municipal Waste Europe expressed their concerns about the development of Europe’s textiles sorting and recycling sector. They have clearly specified what support they expect from Brussel:

“We call on the EU to encourage Member States to lower VAT on textile repair, reuse, and recycling activities, within the existing VAT Directive framework, and explore the possibility of introducing a tax on new, petroleum-based materials. Such measures, if adopted at national levels, would incentivise the use of recycled materials and reduce the environmental impact of virgin textile production.

This situation is likely to raise processing costs for municipalities, potentially resulting in higher waste disposal fees for residents, with the fear that the textiles will be thrown in the residual waste instead. Downstream players in the recycling chain, such as tearing and spinning mills, are also feeling the strain, leading to significant staff cuts.

To avert widespread bankruptcies, immediate financial and legislative support is essential. Short-term financial incentives for EU companies that contribute significantly to a sustainable circular textile chain are needed to safeguard the industry from collapsing. Investment in recycling technologies and infrastructure, alongside targeted support for municipalities dealing with textile waste stagnation, is crucial. We urge the EU to facilitate public-private partnerships to foster innovation in textile recycling and to scale up recycling technologies. This will help increase Europe’s capacity to process textile waste sustainably and efficiently. A swift revision of the Waste Framework Directive (WFD) and rapid implementation of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes are also imperative.

In the mid-term, efforts should focus on making the textiles reuse and recycling sector competitive, in line with Commission President Ursula Von der Leyen’s ambition for a competitive and strong circular economy (through a future Clean Industrial Deal and Circular Economy Act). To reach this ambition, the EU needs to increase demand for recycled textiles, expand recycling capacity, and promote the use of sustainable materials through upcoming ecodesign requirements. We call for the mandatory inclusion of a percentage of recycled textile content (most preferably from post-consumer textiles) in all new textile products placed on the EU market, with a clear trajectory for increasing this percentage over the coming years. Without urgent action, Europe risks undermining its climate goals and jeopardising the future of its textile sorting and recycling industry.”

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, in collaboration with Nonwovens Industry Magazine, is now accepting nominations for the 2025 IDEA® Achievement Awards. Industry professionals in the nonwoven and engineered materials sectors are invited to submit their innovative products—or those of their clients—for consideration.

The IDEA Achievement Awards honor innovations introduced since IDEA22, recognizing excellence in six categories. Winners will be announced during IDEA25, which will be held at the Miami Beach Convention Center, Miami Beach, Florida, from April 29 to May 1, 2025.

Award Categories:

• Raw Materials – Best new raw materials introduction
• Nonwoven Product – Best new nonwoven fabric introduction
• Short-Life – Best new short-life product introduction
• Long-Life – Best new durable product introduction
• Equipment – Best new equipment introduction
• Sustainability Advancement – Recognizing sustainability and/or circularity advancements in raw materials, nonwoven fabrics, processes and equipment, and end-use products.

Entries must be submitted by December 16, 2024 for consideration. Finalists in each category will be selected by INDA’s Technical Advisory Board, with the top three in each category moving forward. Voting will take place on the Nonwovens Industry website, allowing industry professionals to determine the winners. Additionally, the recipient of the Entrepreneur Award will be chosen exclusively by Nonwovens Industry Magazine.

Together with the Association of the German Furniture Industry (VDM) and the German Furniture and Kitchen Retailers Association (BVDM), Koelnmesse has decided to skip the imm cologne's January 2025 edition. This joint decision was taken following intense discussions and reflects the challenging conditions the furniture industry is currently facing, particularly in Germany. It gives everyone involved the chance to collaborate with Koelnmesse on the development of a new, more viable future trade fair format.

It was taken primarily due to the fact that the German furniture manufacturers are generally in troubled waters, as there is a scarce domestic demand for furniture, and the industry is therefore, understandably, keeping a close eye on its spending.

According to the latest VDM industry figures, the entire market recorded a significant fall in turnover in 2023, as well as in the first six months of 2024. It dropped by 9.7 percent for all furniture, and even by 11.2 percent for upholstered furniture. The employee and company numbers are also going down.

"We're extremely sorry to be skipping the imm cologne, but ultimately, this is a necessary, and the right step," says VDM president Leo Lübke. "Like many other industries, the furniture market has also changed considerably over the past few years - and along with this the demand for trade fairs. Unfortunately, the industry's current situation is forcing many companies to change course. As an industry, we are working intensely with Koelnmesse on the development of new concepts tailor-made specifically for the individual furniture segments. As Europe's largest furniture nation, we need our central industry shows, and believe in the Cologne venue's furniture expertise."

BVDM president Markus Meyer agrees: "I understand the decision to skip next January's trade fair, and I'm sorry that the industry did not lend better support to its leading international trade fair. The imm cologne has been an important meeting place for the industry for decades. By taking a break next year, we will not only lose a central platform for innovation and exchange, but also an important stage for serving the international market. All of the industry's stakeholders are now urgently tasked with getting together and finding joint solutions. More than ever before, we must now concentrate on securing and strengthening our position. The industry needs a strong platform like the imm cologne in order to restructure itself in a way that ensures its future viability."

The chairman of the Koelnmesse management board is also looking towards the future: "Pausing the imm cologne at this point in time is a logical decision, in view of the situation the industry currently finds itself in," says Gerald Böse. "It was an extremely difficult decision to make, but it was also unavoidable in order to show our international customers some consideration. Due to its January date, the imm cologne did not take place three years in a row during the pandemic. This lack of continuity, coupled with the current economic environment, makes it impossible for us as event organisers to guarantee an attractive range of exhibitors for the retailers in Cologne in January 2025. We still intend to offer the furniture industry an international stage in Germany in future. We are already jointly developing very promising concepts that meet the changed requirements of all stakeholders as best as can be. Koelnmesse is the world's number one in interiors, as impressively proven by the ORGATEC, the interzum and the spoga+gafa. We must now steer our flagship back on course, together with the furniture industry!"

With 42 exhibiting member companies, ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024 is once again marked by a strong presence of VDMA companies. They cover nearly all different machinery chapters with a focus on spinning and man-made fibers, nonwovens, weaving, braiding, knitting & warp knitting, finishing & dyeing as well as technologies for textile recycling and processing of recycled material.
In total, the German participation at the fair is the largest from outside China.

The VDMA team in Shanghai is staffed again with colleagues from the VDMA headquarters in Germany as well as from VDMA China. With these joined forces, the team is well prepared to support the exhibiting member companies on site.

Dr. Harald Weber, Managing Director VDMA Textile Machinery Association, summarised: “Although facing a difficult market situation, this year’s ITMA ASIA is an essential showcase for the member companies of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association. There is definitely no shortage of chances and opportunities in China and other Asian markets. The exhibiting members will demonstrate their smart technologies that can pave the way to a green textile production and are looking forward to welcoming numerous visitors from various countries to their booths in Shanghai.”

China is aiming at a green and low CO₂ development of its textile industry. At a press conference on the first day of ITMA ASIA + CITME, Georg Stausberg, member of the board of VDMA Textile Machinery and CEO of the Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division said: “Topics, such as energy efficiency and the careful use of resources have become increasingly important for Asian customers in recent years, not least due to stricter legal framework conditions. VDMA members and their technologies are the right partners on the road to a greener and low CO₂ textile production.”
 
Export performance
Already in 2023, the global textile machinery exports decreased by 18.6 % compared to 2022. This was a challenge all major textile machinery producing countries had to face. However, the German exports remained relatively strong and only declined by 3.4 % in 2023. 2024 did not see a change in the global textile industry and thus the German exports have now also dropped significantly. Between January and July 2024, German exports of textile machinery and accessories summed up to 1.2 billion € (2023: 1.6 billion €). The shipping to almost all major markets decreased between January and July: China: 242 million € (2023: 384 million €), Turkey: 140 million € (2023: 180 million €), USA: 118 million € (2023: 152 million €), India: 100 million € (2023: 153 million €).

Sales opportunities in Asia
An economic survey of VDMA in September, to which 20 textile machinery companies replied, reflects the global challenging situation. Around 36 % assessed their current business situation as satisfactory, 54 % said it was bad. Only very few companies expect the global situation to improve in the next six months.

However, looking at the sales opportunities by regions/countries in Asia, most of the responding companies expect a better business situation in the Asian markets except China in six months. The business situation is expected to be on a satisfactory level then. With regard to this, a presence at ITMA ASIA in Shanghai and next year in Singapore is important for VDMA members to continuously show their innovations and to keep contact with the customers in Asia.

OUTLOOK™ 2024 took place on 24-26 September 2024 in Rome, gathering a record of 549 delegates from 212 companies and 37 countries across the nonwovens personal care, hygiene & wipes products value chain.

OUTLOOK24 Conference
The conference, structured across five key sessions, featured 26 speakers covering a diverse array of critical topics impacting not only the nonwovens industry but society at large. These topics included cutting-edge innovations and eco-design, evolving market dynamics, navigating new EU regulations, the future of absorbent hygiene products, sustainability, retail strategies, and the challenges posed by China's influence on European commerce.

The event's first day opened with a compelling presentation by Joachim De Vos, Managing Partner and Founder of Living Tomorrow & TomorrowLab. As an expert in strategic innovation and scenario planning, he shared valuable insights on guiding organizations towards future-readiness. He highlighted the emerging success factors, emphasizing how Generative AI can be leveraged to develop scenarios for the nonwovens industry, serving as a powerful roadmap for future innovation.

On the second day, James Kynge, the Europe-China correspondent for the Financial Times, delivered a keynote address., "The China Challenge", emphasizing China's rapid rise as a global tech superpower, noting that the country produced more than half of the world's robots last year. He explored the far-reaching impact of this growth on European commerce, highlighting the challenges and outlined strategies for European companies.

The final day of OUTLOOK™ Jack Stratten, Director of Insider Trends. highlighted in his presentation, “The polarization of choice: How retailers and brands are responding to market and product saturation,” in an unprecedented market saturation that leaves 64% of consumers feeling overwhelmed by choices. He discussed how massive retail platforms drive product saturation, influencing both quality and variety and concluded that differentiation in this crowded landscape occurs by focusing on high-quality, curated selections.

OUTLOOK24 Exhibition
As part of its commitment to fostering connections within the industry, OUTLOOK™ 2024 continued its tradition of offering extensive networking opportunities to its delegates. This year’s event featured a tabletop exhibition, where 20 companies had the chance to showcase their expertise over the 3 days.

The next edition of OUTLOOK™ will take place from 23-25 September 2025, in Budapest, Hungary at the Marriott Hotel, Budapest.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwovens Industry, based in Cary, North Carolina, and EDANA, the Voice of Nonwovens, headquartered in Brussels, Belgium, have announced the signing of a Letter of Intent (LOI) in Rome to explore a strategic alliance. This marks a significant step toward leveraging their combined expertise and resources to address global challenges and drive new opportunities in the nonwovens industry.

As the nonwovens industry evolves, both associations recognize the need for a unified approach to navigate complex international markets. The potential alliance aims to deliver several key benefits:

1. Enhance the scope and value to Members: The increased integration of resources will enable both organizations to deliver greater value to members, offering an expanded range of educational programs, enhanced networking opportunities, and access to a wider breadth of industry insights.
2. Joint Advocacy and Representation: The alliance will amplify both organizations' collective voice, enhancing their ability to advocate for members' interests at local, regional, and global levels, ensuring that their needs and concerns are effectively addressed.
3. Operational Synergies: The alliance will create efficiencies, strengthen the collective talent pool, and optimize the use of financial resources to better support member and industry initiatives.
4. Innovation and Growth: The alliance will drive joint initiatives and projects that foster innovation, enhance industry leadership, and support the long-term growth and sustainability of the nonwovens industry.

The organizations will conduct a thorough due diligence process over the coming months to evaluate the strategic benefits and operational efficiencies of a potential alliance. Both associations remain dedicated to advancing their members’ interests and exploring new growth avenues within the nonwovens industry.

“This Letter of Intent underscores our commitment in exploring how we can better serve the nonwovens community and tackle industry’s evolving challenges,” said Murat Dogru, General Manager of EDANA. “Our purpose is to ensure that our members are well-positioned to thrive in a dynamic global environment. Reflecting on the Treaty of Rome signed decades ago, we hope that the signing of this Letter of Intent in Rome will pave the way for even greater achievements.”

INDA President & CEO Tony Fragnito added, “This potential alliance represents an opportunity to combine our strengths while openly engaging on the global issues affecting the industry. Better coordination will enhance our ability to serve the industry and our members while retaining our regionally focused support and representation.”

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, has announced the finalists for the 2024 RISE® Innovation Award. On October 1-2, technology scouts, product developers, and business development professionals will gather at the James B. Hunt, Jr. Library, North Carolina State University, Raleigh, NC, to explore nonwoven research and advancements.

Finalists will present their innovations to RISE participants on Tuesday, October 1st. The Award winner will be revealed on Wednesday afternoon, October 2nd.

The 2024 Award Finalists:
Dual-Layer Filtration Media by Ahlstrom Italia S.p.A. – Ahlstrom’s new dual-layer filter media technology enhances engine air intake filtration performances, offering up to double the dust holding capacity and extending filter lifetime by over 50% compared to single-layer media. It also enables smaller, lighter filter designs, meeting current and future engine specifications, including fuel cells. Dual-layer filter media can be offered with flame-retardant functionality for various transportation and industrial applications, ensuring safety, improved performances and reduced environmental impact.

ENDURA™ rPP Spunbond & SMS by Berry Global – A pre-consumer recycled Spunbond and SMS product, recognized by SCS Recycled Content Certification. With Spunbond products containing up to 90% recycled content and SMS products containing up to 40% recycled content, customers/consumers are provided a product with greenhouse gas emissions benefits, validated with life cycle assessment tools assumptions based on the actual production.  ENDURA Spunbond products have the opportunity to reduce CO2 emissions per kilogram of production by 70%, versus previous generation of product.

PlantPanel X by Hempitecture Inc. – PlantPanel X is a rigid continuous insulation material used in exterior above-ground applications. With an R Value of R3.25 per inch, PlantPanel adds to thermal and acoustic comfort and performance. Engineered with a density to resist compression and deflection, PlantPanel is used in split-insulation wall and roof assemblies with either a rain screen cladding or roofing material, depending on the application. With 100% biobased and recycled content, PlantPanel is a sustainable, low carbon continuous insulation solution that’s easy to install and safe to handle.

2023 RISE Innovation Award winner:
TiHive won the 2023 RISE Innovation Award for their SAPMonit technology. TiHive’s innovation, SAPMonit, inspects millions of diapers weekly. SAPMonit delivers lightning-speed inline inspection of superabsorbents’ weight and distribution, optimizes resources, detects flaws, and accelerates R&D.

INDA, The Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry recently attended the 2024 NCSL Legislative Summit hosted in Louisville, Kentucky the week of August 5th. Wes Fisher, Director of Government Affairs, and Sean Grossnickle, Government Affairs Specialist, engaged with hundreds of state legislators and their staff, international delegates, and summit attendees in INDA’s booth. Attendees were eager to learn more about flushability, the California Collection Study, the ins and outs of the nonwovens industry, and, among other policies, state legislation on wipes. This year marked the first time in recent years that INDA has exhibited at the event.

The annual NCSL Legislative Summit hosts one of the nation’s largest and most influential gathering of state legislators, staff, corporations, government agencies, and trade associations. State and national media publications cover the event, disseminating news and stories across the country.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announced the conference program for Hygienix™ 2024, November 18-21, The Renaissance Nashville Hotel, Nashville, TN. This year’s theme, “Driving Absorbent Hygiene Product Innovation: Consumer Desires, Market Dynamics & Sustainability Solutions,” will provide insights into the latest industry advancements.

Event highlights include:

Pre-conference webinars

• “Non-PFAS Hydrophobic Technology for Polypropylene Nonwovens”
• “Harnessing AI to Enhance Transparency and Trust in Brand Sustainability”

Workshops (Monday, November 18th)

• “Fundamentals of Absorption Systems and Opportunities in Adult Incontinence”
• “Innovations in Menstrual Care”
• “Baby and Infant Care Market Dynamics”

Networking opportunities

• Lunch Arounds with founders of successful hygiene start-ups
• Lightning Talks – supercharged elevator pitches
• Tabletop Exhibits of leading-edge absorbent hygiene suppliers
• Receptions – three extended networking events

Presentation Preview

• Absorbent Hygiene Insights, LLC, “Exploring the Performance of Polyaspartic Acid Superabsorbents in Hygiene Products”
• China National Household Paper Industry Association (CNHPIA), “Latest Development of Disposable Hygiene Products Industry in China”
• Glatfelter Industries (France) SAS, “Capitalizing on Capabilities to Support the Shifting Hygiene Industry”
• Gottlieb Binder GmbH & Co. KG, “Synergy of Components - Upstream Advancements Offering Downstream Sustainability Opportunities”
• Handas Consulting, “The Intersection of Nonwovens, Sustainability and the Environment: An African Perspective”
• INDA, “UN Plastics Treaty Update”
• INDA, “Business Not as Usual – The Impact of Reusables on the Absorbent Hygiene Market”
• Curt G. Joa, Inc., “Efficient Material Utilization in Hygienic Incontinence Articles”
• Joii Ltd., “Using Nonwoven Period Care Products and an AI-backed Mobile Application to Diagnose Heavy Menstrual Bleeding”
• Kuraray Europe GmbH, “Connecting Consumer Insights with AHPs: Designing Elastics & Naturality”
• The LYCRA Company, “From Farm to Fiber: Developing Elastane with 70% Renewable Content”
• MyMicrobiome GmbH, “The Menopausal Skin Microbiome – What Do You Need to Know?”
• Price Hanna Consultants LLC, “Shifting Sands in the Global Economy for Absorbent Hygiene Products”
• Principle Business Enterprises, “The High Cost of Adult Incontinence”
• RPK Consulting, “Shifting to Sustainability: Natural Fibers in Diapers and the Rise of Eco Brands”
• Texol S.R.L., “Functional Substrates to Preserve Skin Microbiome”
• SK Leaveo, “Comprehensive Sustainability in Hygiene Products: Exploring Biodegradable Alternatives and Circular Economy”
• SPARK Solutions For Growth, “There’s an App for That! The New World of Incontinence Tech”
• University of Pennsylvania, Division of Urology, “Latest Medical & Surgical Treatment for Incontinence”
• ZymoChem, “The Final Frontier: A Bio-Based Source for Super Absorbents”

Hygienix Innovation Award™
A highlight of the event, the Hygienix Innovation Award™ will feature presentations from three finalists on Tuesday, November 19th. The winner, to be announced on Thursday, November 21st, will be recognized for their innovative contributions to absorbent hygiene products. Nominations are open until September 16th, 2024. Last year’s winner, Sequel Spiral™ Tampon, received FDA clearance in August 2023 and is expected to be widely available in 2024.

The second conference on flame retardancy will now take place in Berlin from 20-21 November 2024, organized by the AVK - Industrievereinigung Verstärkte Kunststoffe e. V. in cooperation with the FGK - Forschungsgesellschaft Kunststoffe e.V.

In addition to the transport sector, the requirements in the construction/infrastructure sector will also be considered. Components made from fiber-reinforced plastics/composites that are manufactured for these sectors often have to have specific flame-retardant properties. Over the course of one and a half days, 14 presentations will provide information on new developments, requirements and innovations from the fields of standardization, material development, construction/infrastructure, public transport, automotive and research & science.

The lecture titles range from requirements and challenges for low-voltage products to the possibilities offered by new types of ceramifying fillers and flame retardants for e-mobility applications.

The event will be held in English.