From the Sector

Sustainability requires more than good intentions – as the 56th INNATEX in Hofheim-Wallau, near Frankfurt am Main, illustrated. Between 19 and 21 July 2025, over 200 Green Fashion brands gathered at the international trade fair for sustainable textiles to present collections for Spring/Summer 2026. On the Sunday in particular the atmosphere surrounding ordering was satisfyingly positive, especially in view of the general challenges in the market. 

“While fast fashion is growing, public interest in sustainable fashion has fallen. This is affecting not only retailers like us but the entire supply chain,” says Laura Ott, Buyer at Marlowe green fashion and marketing committee member of the International Association of the Natural Textile Industry (IVN). “We are all entrepreneurs facing similar challenges but our areas of focus and experience vary. Not least, this is a resource that is commercially valuable.” 

Reframing long-familiar concepts 
Many fashion brands rely on alternative materials that combine a number of benefits. Sloppy Tunas, for example, has collaborated in the development of its own high-tech textile, made in part from collected ocean plastic. The label from Barcelona uses it to make lightweight, quick-drying swim shorts and closes the cycle itself: Worn shorts are taken back and recycled together with offcuts from production to make new yarn and fabric. 

The call for innovation and functionality is so loud that well-established textiles which are by their very nature sustainable could slip into the background. Businesses are responding by reintroducing the classic fabrics. Clothing from Berlin-based label Moefe consists of 100% organic cotton. A special knitting technique helps the material keep its shape and makes it stable in shape and stretchy – even without elastic. Mor Khadi, on the other hand, is turning traditional Indian handcraft into modern streetwear. The special qualities of the Khadi fabric give the clothing breathable and thermo-regulating properties. 
 
Legal changes call for adaptability 
“The sector is in the midst of a fundamental transformation, caught between Sheinification, the shift to the political right, generation change, digitalisation and increasing pricesensitivity,” says Nina Lorenzen, co-founder of Fashion Changers and a member of the Expert Council Sustainability of the trade journal ‘Textilwirtschaft’. “Companies will remain relevant by being prepared to rethink their business – by turning shopping into an experience, for instance, or reshaping fashion into a statement and a form of protest.” 

Dealing with both the latest and pre-existing statutory requirements represents another challenge. By September 2026, the EU member states must transpose the EmpCo Directive (Empowering Consumers for the Green Transition), which came into force in 2024, into national law. Among other things, it regulates how companies may communicate sustainability. Another example affects the processing of leather. The EU is now imposing restrictions on a substance also used for ecological tanning. This will compel manufacturers to change their processes. 

“We see a huge need for discussion,” concludes Alexander Hitzel, Project Manager of INNATEX. “Demands on Green Fashion are getting more complex and more dynamic. There is no one simple solution for everyone involved and for all sets of problems. What matters now is that businesses can find precise answers to their specific questions. Platforms that generate ideas and promote cooperation are more important than ever.” 

On August 17 and 18, the INNATEX showroom in Bern (Switzerland) will be hosting some 40 brands at the end of the order season. 

Noise pollution can cause stress and damage our health. Whether in restaurants, open-plan offices, or schools, we are confronted with loud background noise in our everyday lives. Sound-absorbing materials are used to reduce noise. The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) are developing a comprehensive system for measuring and predicting the acoustic properties of a wide variety of textiles. This research enables the development of a wide range of sound-absorbing or acoustically effective materials.

Currently, in addition to foams, nonwovens are mostly used as sound absorbers. However, these are relatively thick and not very stretchy. Textile fabrics such as woven or knitted materials are more elastic and flexible and are able to reduce noise more specifically in certain frequency ranges. This allows them to be individually adapted to existing or expected noise problems. However, these textile fabrics have rarely been used in acoustics to date.

In order to exploit this potential, research and development are encountering a problem: the measurement methods and simulation models used for nonwovens are not readily applicable to other types of textiles. Nonwovens consist of loosely arranged, interconnected fibers; they have what is known as a random fiber arrangement. In woven and knitted fabrics, on the other hand, the fiber arrangement has a recurring, non-random pattern. The different fiber arrangements result in significant differences in material properties. Due to a lack of alternatives, manufacturers of acoustic textiles still have to use these limited methods for their product development.

This is where the MetAkusTex research project comes in. Dr. Elena Shabalina, Head of the Technology Center E-Textiles & Acoustics at the DITF, explains: "In acoustics research, there is limited knowledge about the potential and diversity of textiles. As a textile research institute, we want to ensure that a wide range of textile structures, including 3D textiles, find their way into the world of acoustics. We are laying the necessary foundations for this." The DITF are developing new acoustic measurement and prediction methods that can be used to evaluate how different textiles interact with sound, whether they absorb, reflect, or scatter it. With the help of mathematical models, textile materials can be tested, adapted, and optimized for their acoustic effect as early as the design phase.

The project results will help companies make their product development processes more efficient and to design materials in a more targeted manner, for example, to make them sustainable. This will shorten time to market.

In addition to the development of new measurement methods, the acoustics laboratory at the DITF is being expanded. The measuring room with sound-absorbing walls and a sound-reflecting floor (semi-anechoic chamber) will be equipped with a modern data acquisition system. In addition to software, this includes various measuring microphones, loudspeakers, and a turntable to measure the sound quality of loudspeakers from different directions. The new acoustics laboratory will be used for research at the institute and will also be made available to industry for testing.
 
The MetAkusTex research project was funded by the Baden-Württemberg Ministry of Economic Affairs, Labor, and Tourism as part of the Invest BW - Praxissprints program.

80 years of experience, innovation, and family spirit – this year, mechanical engineering company Mahlo GmbH + Co. KG from Saal an der Donau is celebrating a very special anniversary. Since its founding in 1945, Mahlo has evolved from a small pioneering workshop into a globally sought-after specialist in measurement and control technology.

It all started with the radio. By building radio receivers, Dr. Heinz Mahlo began his entrepreneurial success story shortly after the end of World War II with the founding of the "Dr. Heinz Mahlo Electromechanical Workshops" in Saal an der Donau. The visionary engineer soon recognized the potential of the textile industry and developed the first measurement systems for fabrics. A major breakthrough came in 1958 with the patent for the first automatic weft straightener – a technological milestone that still forms the basis for modern straightening machines today.

This initial success laid the foundation for the company’s continuous development. In the decades that followed, Mahlo opened up new markets, expanded its product portfolio to applications in the nonwoven, paper, and plastics industries, and built an international sales and service network. Step by step, subsidiaries were established in the USA, Italy, Belgium, and China, along with global service partnerships to ensure close customer support on site.

Technology for Textiles, Nonwovens, Paper, and More 
"As the global market leader in textile straightening technology, we continue to build on the ideas and entrepreneurial foresight of Dr. Heinz Mahlo – and have developed the broadest portfolio of straightening systems in various configurations on the market," summarizes CEO Rainer Mestermann. He has been leading the company since 2011 and has helped Mahlo successfully expand beyond the textile sector. "In the late 2000s, we established a second pillar in the field of web measurement technology with our quality measurement system Qualiscan QMS – also to become less dependent on typical market fluctuations in the textile industry." The new product line was so successful that in 2018, a new production hall was built specifically for this area. And in true Mahlo fashion, the bar was set high – today the company is considered the provider with the most comprehensive portfolio of in-house developed sensors.

Strong Through Change – Thanks to Strong Roots
But even a solid flagship like Mahlo is not immune to turbulent developments in the global market. “With an export share of around 80 percent, we are naturally closely tied to the global economy,” says Mestermann. Current geopolitical crises are dampening the demand for capital goods. Ultimately, the demand for Mahlo technology is closely linked to the consumption of high-quality products – such as in the clothing or packaging industries. “And it’s precisely this quality we stand for – and our systems ensure it is reliably achieved.”

Still, the managing director remains optimistic that Mahlo will weather these rough waters as well: “Keeping a company successful in the market over eight decades is only possible with a spirit of innovation, reliability, and the dedication of many smart minds. I am proud of our team and grateful for the trust of our customers around the world.”

Innovation Hub in Saal an der Donau
One of the key pillars is the motivated and skilled team at the Saal headquarters. All systems are developed and built there – in line with the company’s guiding principle that explicitly emphasizes its commitment to Germany as a development and production location. To secure the necessary skilled workforce – known to be in short supply in Germany – Mahlo strongly promotes young talent as one of the largest training companies in the Kelheim area. “That was already very important to my grandfather,” emphasizes Ralph Greenwood-Mahlo, grandson of the company founder and, together with his wife Aura, owner of the company. Both continue to lead Mahlo in the spirit of Dr. Heinz Mahlo: “We want to preserve the company culture that has grown over time while also providing momentum for new developments. It’s important to us to allow room for fresh ideas while offering continuity.”

A Family with Responsibility – Then and Now
For the Greenwood-Mahlo family, running a family business means thinking in generations, not in quarterly numbers. This also means making sustainable decisions. “By firmly integrating resource-saving behavior into our company practices, we can not only protect the environment but also ensure our company’s long-term success.” Mahlo’s systems also contribute to this – helping manufacturers save raw materials, make processes more efficient, and minimize waste.

According to Ralph Greenwood-Mahlo, this reflects a lived responsibility towards employees, customers, the region, and future generations: “Dr. Heinz Mahlo was a pioneer who had the courage to tackle technical challenges while always striving to find the best solution for his customers. This spirit of innovation still shapes Mahlo today – and we see it as our duty to carry this legacy forward without losing touch with reality. Innovation with responsibility – that was his core idea, and it’s ours too.”

Kraig Biocraft Laboratories, Inc., a leader in spider silk technology, announced the finalizing of a significant three-year collaborative agreement with a key government agency in Southeast Asia to expand the scale and security of its recombinant spider silk manufacturing platform.
 
This agreement, expected to be signed before the end of July, marks the culmination of years of relationship-building and demonstrated performance by Kraig Labs and its proprietary spider silk technologies. The agreement is designed to accelerate the Company's growth by providing access to previously unavailable rearing facilities, supporting infrastructure, and technical resources.
 
Under the terms of this collaboration, Kraig Labs will work closely with government specialists to optimize and expand spider silk production. The collaboration will unlock new production capacity, enabling Kraig Labs to significantly scale its hybridized silkworm operations.
 
Importantly, this agreement also includes provisions for the creation of parallel rearing operations, a key component in the Company’s long-term roadmap to mitigate production risk and eliminate single points of failure. By distributing parent strain and egg production across multiple independent facilities, Kraig Labs is further securing its supply chain and increasing throughput capacity to meet future demand.
 
Work under this agreement is anticipated to begin in August. This collaboration will serve as a foundational element of the Company’s expanding global spider silk manufacturing strategy, highlighting the growing confidence in the Company's pioneering biomaterials.

Freudenberg Performance Materials (Freudenberg) will showcase packaging materials combining high performance protection, CO2 emission reduction and waste prevention at Fachpack 2025 in Nuremberg, Germany, from September 23-25. Evolon® packaging solutions offered by Freudenberg are particularly suited for packaging automotive components with sensitive surfaces. 

Evolon® packaging materials provide superior surface protection for a wide range of automotive parts, including molded plastics and painted elements. The high-end textiles make an important contribution to the quality goals of OEMs and tier suppliers by preventing damage to transported parts and lowering rejection rates.

Recycled content and low CO2 footprint
Evolon® textiles have a small carbon footprint because their manufacturing process uses low-CO2 energy, and the fabrics are lightweight and reusable. Furthermore, Evolon® packaging materials are made of up to 85% recycled content. “By replacing virgin raw materials with recycled content, we’ve been able to cut the carbon footprint of our fabric production by 35%. We are actively exploring the possibility of manufacturing Evolon® using 100% recycled content to drive CO₂ emissions down even further,” explains Jean-François Kerhault, Director Global Sales & Marketing General Industry at Freudenberg Performance Materials. 

Although Evolon® fabrics are lightweight – from 80gsm to 300gsm – they nevertheless still provide the high mechanical strength properties required for automotive packaging applications. This conserves raw materials and reduces the weight of transported loads. In particular, the new Evolon® Ultra Force is approximately 50% lighter than PVC-based materials with similar high mechanical strength, while containing a minimum 50% recycled content and no PVC.

Waste prevention
Evolon® materials play an important role in decreasing waste when it comes to transporting automotive parts. Above all, the high-end materials provide superior surface performance which directly reduces scrap of transported parts. 
In addition, packaging waste is also prevented because Evolon® technical packaging textiles are designed for reusable packaging containers. Single-use packaging is avoided. Moreover, Evolon® packaging material lasts for the entire production cycle of a car model.

New Directors Bring Industry, Innovation and Leadership Experience to Advance Syensqo’s Evolution to a Specialty Chemicals Company.
 
SYENSQO SA announced the appointment of Dr. Cynthia Arnold and Augusto Di Donfrancesco as new members of its Board of Directors, effective July 17, 2025. 
They replace Matti Lievonen and Nadine Leslie who are stepping down from the Board to pursue other opportunities.
 
Dr. Cynthia Arnold brings more than 30 years of global leadership experience in technology and innovation within the materials and chemicals sectors. She previously served as Chief Technology Officer at Valspar Corporation and held senior roles at Sun Chemical, Eastman Chemical and General Electric. With extensive public company board experience, Dr. Arnold currently serves as an independent director on the boards of Cabot Corporation, Milliken & Company and Fluence Energy. She holds a PhD in Materials Science and Engineering from Virginia Polytechnic Institute and an MBA from the University of California,Berkeley.
 
Augusto Di Donfrancesco held key leadership roles in research & innovation, operations and transformation during a more than 35-year career at Solvay. As President of Solvay’s Specialty Polymers Global Business Unit, he led a period of significant organic growth, doubling net sales through customer-centric innovation. He was also a member of the Solvay Executive Leadership Team where he led group-wide strategic programs. Mr. Di Donfrancesco’s deep sector knowledge and track record in operational excellence and capital allocation will further reinforce Syensqo’s ongoing growth and transformation objectives. Mr. Di Donfrancesco holds a bachelor’s degree in chemical engineering from Pisa University. 
 
Rosemary Thorne, Chair of the Board of Directors, said, “On behalf of the Board, I would like to express our gratitude to Matti and Nadine for their contributions to the Board during Syensqo’s formative period as an independent public company. As part of our Board succession planning, we are focused on maintaining the right mix of skills and expertise and are thrilled to welcome Cynthia and Augusto, who are proven leaders of the highest caliber and are poised to contribute their significant leadership, technology, innovation and operational experience to the Board. We look forward to benefiting from their respective knowledge and insights as we continue to focus on delivering shareholder value.”
 
“We are delighted to welcome Cynthia and Augusto to our Board,” said Dr. Ilham Kadri, Chief Executive Officer of Syensqo. “Their perspectives will be invaluable as we continue to prioritize innovation and operational excellence to capitalize on the meaningful long-term growth and value creation opportunities ahead. I look forward to working with them.” 
 
Dr. Arnold said, “Syensqo’s commitment to scientific excellence and sustainability resonates deeply with me. I am excited to contribute to the Board’s work to advance innovation and operational performance, and to help shape the Company’s continued success in a rapidly evolving global landscape.” 

 
“I am honored to join Syensqo’s Board during this important period in the Company’s evolution to a Specialty Chemicals Company” said Mr. Di Donfrancesco. “Having spent my career driving transformation, innovation and growth within the specialty chemicals sector, I look forward to working with my fellow directors and the management team to help accelerate growth and unleash Syensqo’s potential.”

With its latest Joint Partner Project titled “Thermoplastic Pressure Vessel Production – Benchmarking of Design-for-Manufacturing Strategies to Optimize Material Efficiency and Cost,” AZL Aachen GmbH invites companies from across the pressure vessel and composite value chains to collaborate on the next step in sustainable high-pressure storage solutions.

Unlocking the Full Potential of Thermoplastic Composites
Thermoplastic composites are widely recognized for their potential to reduce processing times, offer alternative recycling routes, and improve design flexibility. Yet, when traditional thermoset vessel designs are simply transferred to thermoplastic manufacturing, cost and efficiency often fall short of competitiveness. The aim of this project is to rethink vessel design and production holistically – aligning thermoplastic material properties with optimized design- and manufacturing strategies to unlock their full economic and technological potential.

Collaborative Engineering for Scalable Solutions
Conducted as a Joint Partner Project, the initiative brings together companies with shared interests to co-finance and co-shape the project. The AZL Engineering Team will analyse current technologies, develop new design concepts for hydrogen and CNG vessels, and benchmark the resulting configurations in terms of weight, cost, recyclability and production KPIs. The consortium of participating companies will get access to simulation results, concept layouts, and comparative evaluations based on a unified framework.

Experience and Exchange Built In
The JPP format provides a platform not only for technical development, but also for strategic networking. Each partner can contribute input, benefit from consolidated expertise, and gain early access to the results. With more than a decade of experience managing such initiatives, AZL ensures a structured and result-driven collaboration.
The project will start on July 16th, 2025. All participants are invited to engage in an interactive Kick-off Meeting to define key priorities and present their internal perspectives. 

In light of the recent court cases involving two of LVMH’s subsidiaries, where workers in the supply chain had allegedly been exploited, LVMH is reassessing its supply chains across all subsidiaries. 
 
Luxury conglomerate LVMH is piloting traceability technology across its brands as Loro Piano became the second of its subsidiaries to be placed under court administration this week. 
 
The luxury market has been hit by a series of scandals, from labour exploitation to fake viral stories about luxury goods being made in China alongside fake goods. 
 
The Court of Milan found that Loro Piana, which makes expensive cashmere clothing, subcontracted its production through two front firms that had no actual manufacturing capacity to Chinese-owned workshops in Italy, which the court said exploited workers. 
 
Loro Piana Spa will undergo court monitoring for a year, according to the 26-page ruling released this week, which stems from investigations into the world of subcontracting for luxury goods in Italy that started in 2023. 
 
Units of fashion brands Valentino, LVMH's second largest brand Dior, Italy's Armani, and Italian handbag company Alviero Martini have also been placed under administration recently. 
 
LVMH, the world's biggest luxury group, acquired 80% of Loro Piana in July 2013, with the Italian family that founded the company retaining 20%, according to the court ruling. 
 
Loro Piana declined to comment to Reuters. LVMH was not immediately available for comment. 
In June, Loro Piana appointed Frederic Arnault, a son of LVMH chairman and Chief Executive Bernard Arnault, as its CEO. 
 
In their statement, Italian police concluded they had closed two Chinese-owned factories, the third being a ‘paper’ company with no production capacity, and imposed a joint fine of over 240,000 euros. 
 
One of the workers at the factories allegedly told police he had been hospitalised for over a month after being beaten for asking for his Chinese bosses for unpaid wages. 
 
The Milan court in its ruling on Loro Piana also appointed an external administrator to verify that the company meets all the judges' demands on control of its supply chain, according to documents seen by Reuters. 
 
The administration will be lifted earlier if the unit brings its practices into line with legal requirements, as was the case with Dior, Armani and Alviero Martini. 
 
LVMH reassured its shareholders in its latest AGM in April that it had used traceability platform TextileGenesis to look into tracking a sample 31,000 products across key brands including Louis Vuitton, Loro Piana, Dior and Bulgari.  
 
The system documents anything from the origin of cashmere used in Loro Piana scarves to the material sourcing for Louis Vuitton handbags. 
 
"Traceability and transparency are the fundamental principles that guarantee the excellence of our products," Antoine Arnault, chairman of Loro Piana and head of communications and image at LVMH, told shareholders at the company's annual general meeting in April. 
 
TextileGenesis founder Amit Gautam confirmed that demand for traceability solutions has surged since another subsidiary of LMVH owned Dior was placed under court administration last year for unethical supply chain practices. 
 
"Brands are realising that consumers now expect verification, not just storytelling," he said. "The luxury sector can no longer assume trust based on brand heritage alone."

Reconomy, a leading international circular economy specialist, has published a new global strategy exploring the evolving global landscape of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for textiles, outlining how businesses can prepare for upcoming changes and detailing Reconomy’s strategic initiatives to support businesses across Europe and worldwide.

The textile industry is approaching a period of significant regulatory and operational transformation. Traditionally, one of the most resource-intensive sectors, textiles generate substantial waste and emissions throughout their lifecycle. 

New EPR legislation is driving a fundamental shift by making producers responsible for end-of-life management, including collection, reuse, recycling, and disposal. This structural change is intended to accelerate the transition towards circular business models and more sustainable production and consumption patterns.

Reconomy views this regulatory shift not as a compliance burden, but as a critical opportunity for innovation and competitive differentiation. By supporting stakeholders in turning regulatory requirements into strategic advantages, Reconomy aims to help businesses build more resilient and circular operations while meeting increasing expectations from consumers, retailers, and policymakers.

The new strategy paper, Textile EPR Strategy 2030, sets out a comprehensive five-year roadmap, providing an overview of anticipated policy timelines and evolving requirements. It also addresses key themes including eco-modulation, Digital Product Passports, and the growing need for robust data and supply chain transparency.

The document outlines Reconomy’s mission and specific initiatives over the next five years that will enable clients to navigate the complex textile EPR landscape effectively.

In the short term, during the “pre-EPR” phase, this includes helping clients understand the regulatory impact, preparing them operationally, building strong partnerships across the textile ecosystem — including with sorters, recyclers, and other key stakeholders — and investing in technology to enable advanced data management and material returns. 

In the longer term, once EPR legislation is established across all EU member states and additional global markets, Reconomy will continue to support clients with multi-jurisdictional compliance (including in regions such as North America), help them leverage product-level data insights to drive innovation and better product design, and accelerate their transition to circular business models.

The strategy follows the launch of Reconomy's Textile EPR Impact Assessment service – a new tailored service designed to help businesses prepare for the rapidly evolving landscape of textile regulations.

Lavi Aharon, Director of Reconomy’s Textile Programme and Business Development Director, said:
“Textile producers are facing an increasingly complex and fast-evolving regulatory landscape as EPR schemes roll out across the world, and especially in Europe. At the same time, they are under growing pressure to demonstrate real progress on sustainability to retailers and consumers.”

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals, launched CYCLANON® XC-W e, an innovative washing-off auxiliary that improves productivity and reduces resource consumption in cellulosic dyeing while delivering outstanding color fastness, even in difficult high-electrolyte or hard water conditions.

Conventional polyacrylate or copolymer washing-off agents often struggle to fully remove unfixed dye from fabric, especially when a high concentration of salt remains on it from the dye bath or under hard water conditions. This can lead to excessive rinsing and multiple washing baths. Ineffective washing-off may result in quality rejections due to backstaining or uneven shade development.

Archroma’s trio-polymer CYCLANON® XC-W e was designed to overcome these challenges, delivering high performance, improved productivity and water and energy savings, with minimal added cost compared to conventional polymer-based products.

Wet-fastness with measurable water, energy and time savings
With easier unfixed dye removal, mills can reduce pre-rinsing and the number of washing baths to achieve shorter washing-off cycles and save time, water, energy and chemical inputs compared to conventional polyacrylate or copolymer washing-off agents:

• Up to 15% shorter process time
• Up to 20% less water used in the washing-off stage
• Up to 20% lower CO2 emissions through reduced energy consumption
• Up to 20% reduction in chemical use

Significant productivity gains for competitive advantage
These efficiency gains also translate into higher productivity. By shortening washing-off cycles and reducing rework, CYCLANON® XC-W e helps mills process more fabric with existing equipment.
•    Up to 15% increase in throughput with the same machine set up
For example, a knit production plant producing 10 metric tons (MT) of dyed fabric per day could increase daily output by 1 MT, without expanding capacity, by using CYCLANON® XC-W e to eliminate two washing baths and reduce quality rejections.

Part of the SUPER SYSTEMS+ portfolio
CYCLANON® XC-W e is part of Archroma’s SUPER SYSTEMS+ portfolio and can be combined with the Blue Magic all-in-one pretreatment and NOVACRON® EC/S reactive dyes to create an end-to-end solution for high-quality dyeing of 100% cotton fabrics.

The system is categorized as an IMPACT+ solution within Archroma’s SUPER SYSTEMS+ Impact Matrix. This means it delivers the highest level of resource savings, high wash durability and beyond-compliance chemicals – as compared to standard FOUNDATION processes with ZDHC Gateway MRSL Level 3 compliance.

CYCLANON® XC-W e complies with the latest regulatory and brand requirements, including stringent MRSL and RSL standards. Registration for bluesign®, ZDHC Level 3, and GOTS 7.0 are underway.