From the Sector

On 19-20 February 2025, social partners from the Italian textile and fashion industry met in Rome to deepen their understanding of the upcoming EU legislations and their impact on the Italian textile industry, as well as to further discuss the next step in their effort for a more broad and effective social dialogue. In the context of the EU co-funded StitchTogether project, which aims at promoting social partnerships in the European Textiles and Clothing Industry, the meeting was also the occasion to draft the Rome Declaration: a joint statement to emphasise the social partners’ strong commitment to work together.

The meeting in Rome brought together representatives of the Italian textile industry, including the Italian employer association (Confindustria Moda), national trade unions (Femca-Cisl, Filctem-Cgil and Uiltec-Uil), regional clusters and companies to discuss the future of the industry. Together, they discussed the proposal for a sectoral industrial policy strategy to present to the Italian Government and the EU Commission for the support, consolidation and development of the textile-clothing supply chain.

The Rome Declaration includes a series of priorities, confirming social partners’ commitment in working together for a more competitive and fair Italian textile industry. The Declaration also calls upon the Italian Government and the European Union to support the upcoming transformation of the textile and clothing industries, technology and skills upgrades, regional development and just transition.

Says Judith Kirton-Darling, IndustriAll Europe's general secretary stated that “the Italian textile industry employs around 300,000 workers, or 24% of the European workforce in the textile and clothing sector, making it the largest in Europe. In a context of numerous challenges for the European textile industry, such as unfair globalization, green and digital transition, social dialogue is a real lever for improving working conditions and job security. We are committed alongside our Italian partners to a resilient and attractive textile industry in Italy”.

Dirk Vantyghem, EURATEX Director General, stressed that “Italy represents 36% of the total European textile and fashion industry; it is critically important therefore to maintain a strong Italian textile industry, which can be a benchmark for other countries. Combining quality, creativity and innovation is the recipe for success. This requires a dynamic company spirit, where employers and employees work hand in hand.”

Kornit Digital LTD., a global pioneer in sustainable, on-demand digital fashion and textile production technologies, announced that American Classics Apparel, Inc., a top wholesaler of licensed music, movie, and gaming apparel, is adopting the Kornit Apollo platform. This next-generation direct-to-garment powerhouse accelerates the company’s shift from traditional screen printing to high-speed digital production – ensuring it can keep pace with the surging customer demand and rapid growth of the e-tailer marketplace.
 
Headquartered in Hanceville, Alabama, American Classics has been a trusted name in licensed apparel for nearly three decades – offering iconic designs from beloved brands in music (AC/DC), movies (Rocky) and television (Cheers). Sold through retailers like Walmart and online platforms such as Amazon, their products define fan gear excellence.
 
With the addition of Kornit Apollo to its arsenal on top of Kornit Atlas MAX POLY production and range of earlier Kornit direct-to-garment systems – the company is ready to deliver faster, more efficiently and with unmatched quality.

At the Egypt Stitch & Tex fair, held from February 20 to 23 in Cairo, Jeanologia, a global leader in textile technology innovation, showcased its solutions aiming to revolutionize textile finishing in Egypt and beyond.
 
At Egypt Stitch & Tex, Jeanologia highlighted the synergy between some of its most advanced technologies, including laser, G2 Indra, eFlow + DB 420, and H2 Zero. These solutions are making a significant impact on global textile production and might be essential to the future of Egypt’s textile sector.
 
Jeanologia’s pioneering laser technology—refined over 25 years— offers a fully automated process that replaces harmful traditional techniques. By eliminating dangerous practices for workers and the environment, this innovative laser not only ensures safer operations but also unlocks endless creative possibilities, enhances design quality, and boosts productivity for manufacturers.
 
Complementing the laser is the G2 Indra technology, the perfect partner in achieving a sustainable finishing process. Instead of washing with water and chemicals, G2 Indra uses air, significantly reducing chemical usage and water consumption. Today, the combination of these two technologies has permanently eliminated the need for PP spray and the stone wash process, marking a decisive shift toward cleaner, more efficient production.

With the Fraunhofer Innovation Platform for Fibers, Processing and Recycling Solutions at Innovative Composite Center FIP-MIRAI@ICC, the Fraunhofer Institute for Casting, Composite and Processing Technology IGCV and the Innovative Composite Center (ICC), Kanazawa Institute of Technology (KIT) in Kanazawa area are setting new standards in the circular economy. With a total budget of 2 million euros - half funded by the Fraunhofer-Society and half by the ICC - the platform aims to develop solutions to global challenges in the field of composite recycling. A Fraunhofer Innovation Platform (FIP) is a temporary research unit hosted and operated by a research institution abroad, which is set up in close cooperation with one or more Fraunhofer Institutes in Germany. With “Mirai”, the Japanese word for “future”, the FIP-MIRAI@ICC sends out a clear signal: Waste is seen as a valuable resource and reused through new technologies. The aim is to create a forward-looking circular economy that guarantees sustainability for future generations. At the heart of the five-year cooperation (2025-2029) is a central location in Kanazawa area, which brings together researchers from the Fraunhofer IGCV and the ICC with companies, universities and customers.

Global challenges as an opportunity for innovation
The increasing use of composite materials in industries such as aerospace, wind energy and sports is leading to rising volumes of hard-to-recycle waste. As early as 2023, 75 kilotons of carbon fiber waste were produced worldwide, and 350 kilotons are expected by 2028 in aviation alone. The growing use of hydrogen technologies in mobility and transportation will further exacerbate this problem.

Technological innovations for sustainability
The German-Japanese collaboration pools technological expertise: the Fraunhofer IGCV contributes its expertise in fiber-matrix separation, quality assurance of recyclates and the wet-laid process, while the ICC contributes its pressing processes and continuous double-belt press technology. Together, this creates a unique “one-stop-shop” offering for companies looking for solutions for the recycling of composite materials.

Appearance at the JEC World 2025
A first insight into the work of FIP-MIRAI@ICC will be provided at JEC World 2025 in Paris, where the platform will be represented at the Japan Pavilion. Companies, researchers and industry experts are invited to visit the stand and discuss the latest developments.

A boost for the circular economy
FIP-MIRAI@ICC aims to act as a catalyst for sustainable technologies and transform waste streams into valuable resources. The close partnership between German and Japanese players paves the way for a sustainable and future-proof industry. With this initiative, science and industry are joining forces to turn global challenges into opportunities. With the vision of promoting ecological and economic sustainability, FIP-MIRAI@ICC is setting new standards in international cooperation.

Outlast's manufacturing partner Liongtex Innovation Enterprises Co. has won the coveted BODYWEAR AWARD at this year's PERFORMANCE DAYS 2025 for Outlast® Matrix Infusion Coating (MIC) technology.

The award-winning Outlast® MIC process represents a major advancement in textile innovation, featuring a wafer-thin layer of micro-encapsulated natural wax printed onto the fabric’s surface. This intelligent coating enhances thermal comfort by dynamically cooling or warming the wearer as needed, significantly expanding the body’s “comfort zone.”

What sets Outlast® MIC apart is its ability to integrate seamlessly into next-to-skin bodywear without altering the fabric’s original properties. This innovation allows brand partners to maintain their unique materials while incorporating Outlast’s proven temperature-regulating technology - a great innovation for the bodywear segment and a key reason the jury selected it for the award.

As PERFORMANCE DAYS 2025 unfolds on March 5-6 at Messe München (Halls C4 and C5), attendees can explore the latest fabric innovations for Spring/Summer 2027 across Performancewear, Bodywear, and Accessories.

CHT, a specialist in textile chemistry and dyes, is showcasing the latest sustainable textile technologies at PERFORMANCE DAYS Functional Fabric Fair in Munich on March 5 and 6, 2025. The focus is on innovative dyeing processes and functional finishes that specifically improve textile properties.

• PIGMENTURA by CHT - The innovative, pigment-based dyeing process uses no water at all for soaping and rinsing and does not require energy-intensive heating of the process water. As a result, water consumption in the dyeing process can be reduced by up to 96 %. This pioneering technology was awarded the German Federal Ecodesign Award in the Product category in 2024 - a result of the successful collaboration between Inditex and CHT.
• ECOPRINT by CHT - The water-based textile printing system with reactive and pigment inks meets the highest sustainability standards and has been awarded the C2C Certified Material Health Certificate™. It actively contributes to converting linear production processes into circular systems and promoting the textile circular economy.
• TUBINGAL® RISE - The innovative softener is made from recycled end-of-life silicones and consists of over 60 % recycled silicone waste and emulsifiers from renewable raw materials.
• ARRISTAN rAIR - The sustainable hydrophilic finish is made from recycled PET flakes and ensures optimum moisture regulation, fast drying and excellent dirt repellency. ARRISTAN rAIR is ideal for finishing recycled yarns and fabrics, which can then be recycled again.

The Board of Management of SGL Carbon SE decided, with the approval of the Supervisory Board, to restructure the loss-making Carbon Fibers business unit. SGL Carbon will significantly reduce the business activities of Carbon Fibers and focus on a profitable core. Individual solutions are being developed for all Carbon Fibers sites, including the closure of unprofitable sites. On February 23, 2024, SGL Carbon had already announced that it was reviewing all strategic options for the Carbon Fibers business unit. The joint venture Brembo SGL Carbon Ceramic Brakes S.p.A. (BSCCB), which is allocated to the Carbon Fibers business unit for accounting purposes, is not affected by the restructuring.

A complete sale of the Business Unit Carbon Fibers was intensively evaluated, but is no longer considered feasible. Dr. Stephan Bühler, the responsible member of the Board of Management of SGL Carbon, explains: “We are in the initial phase of restructuring the Business Unit Carbon Fibers. We therefore ask for your understanding that we are currently unable to provide any specific details regarding individual site closures and the exact restructuring period. Our goal is to quickly begin the implementation in order to create clarity for our employees. We will begin the implementation of the restructuring as quickly as possible in order to contain the operating losses of CF and the associated impact on the entire SGL Carbon in the short term.”

The company is expecting one-time cash effects in the amount of approximately €50 million over the next two years due to the extensive restructuring.

Carbon Fibers produces textile, acrylic and carbon fibers at seven sites in Europe and North America, with around 870 employees. After a slump in demand for carbon fibers for the wind industry, the business unit's sales and earnings fell significantly in the course of fiscal years 2023 and 2024.

“The earlier expectations for carbon fibers as a future material for the automotive industry have not been fulfilled. The wind energy industry was also unable to compensate the shortfall in demand. In combination with increasing global over-capacities, high operating losses were incurred over the last two years, which weighed on the entire SGL Carbon,” said Andreas Klein, CEO of SGL Carbon, explaining the decision to restructure the Carbon Fiber business.

Preliminary sales and adjusted EBITDA 2024
Based on preliminary figures, Carbon Fibers generated sales of around €210 million in fiscal year 2024 (previous year: €224.9 million). According to preliminary figures, the negatively adjusted EBITDA of Carbon Fibers, excluding the share of the earnings of the joint venture BSCCB, amounted to around minus €27 million in fiscal year 2024 (previous year: minus €10.9 million), as expected.

The continued weak business development of Carbon Fibers also impacts the group. Based on preliminary figures, group sales of SGL Carbon amounted to approximately €1,026 million (previous year: €1,089.1 million) in fiscal year 2024. Preliminary adjusted EBITDA for the group of approximately €163 million was slightly below the prior-year level (2023: €168.4 million), but in line with the given guidance for 2024. Based on the current economic conditions and forecasts for some of our markets, such as the automotive and semiconductor industries, SGL Carbon expects the market environment to remain challenging in 2025.

Further information on the business development in 2024 and the final financial figures can be found in the SGL Carbon Annual Report, which will be published together with the outlook for the current fiscal year on March 20, 2025.

Oerlikon Riri, the luxury zipper and button brand within Oerlikon Luxury, unveils its SS26 collection, where two distinct yet complementary themes redefine the essence of high-end accessories: Athletic Elegance and Neoclassical Luxury. This season, Oerlikon Riri blends performance with sophistication and heritage with innovation, crafting a collection that embodies both contemporary dynamism and timeless refinement. With an increasing transition to stainless steel components and chains, the collection reflects Oerlikon Riri’s commitment to sustainability. The metal parts contain at least 50% recycled stainless steel, reinforcing the brand’s dedication to eco-conscious innovation.

The integration of Physical Vapour Deposition (PVD) technology ensures superior durability, reduces environmental impacts, and delivers a high-quality finish. By embracing recycled materials, innovative surface treatments, and high-precision manufacturing techniques, the brand continues to set new standards for excellence in the fashion industry.

ATHLETIC ELEGANCE: Sport and Style
Luxury and sportswear have never been more intertwined. Inspired by the synergy between high fashion and elite sports connections, the Athletic Elegance theme introduces bold, highperformance accessories that echo the energy of competitive arenas while maintaining an unmistakable refinement.

This collection features high-tech finishes, cutting-edge materials, and a vibrant color palette of aquamarine and red, evoking the dynamism of movement and speed. Stainless steel pullers and precision-engineered buttons with PVD coatings further enhance the collection’s refined technical aesthetic. Among the highlights of this collection is Metamorph, a newly developed button range featuring an asymmetrical synthetic ring.

Designed for optimal functionality, it offers a firm resistance when opening while ensuring a lighter, more effortless closure compared to similar designs. Additionally, the aesthetic of the Zero button, long celebrated for its distinctive style, has been reinterpreted in a slim version, enhancing its elegance and refinement for a more sophisticated look.

NEOCLASSICAL LUXURY: Heritage and Refinement
The Neoclassical Luxury theme draws inspiration from classical Greek culture, art, and philosophy, celebrating the enduring beauty of historical aesthetics through a modern, minimalist lens. This mood presents a sacred palette of neutral tones – cream, beige, and soft brown – complemented by opulent gold and palladium finishes.

The collection introduces exquisitely crafted accessories, including zippers with Greek columninspired pullers, diamond-embellished details, and high-quality natural stones. A prominent feature is the MIM (Metal Injection Molding) technology, which allows for the creation of intricately shaped components with exceptional durability and mechanical properties, reinforcing Oerlikon Riri’s technical expertise.

In keeping with the brand’s sustainability strategy, stainless steel zippers and buttons, alongside increased PVD applications, highlight the shift toward longer-lasting, ecofriendly luxury accessories.

Source Fashion, Europe’s leading responsible sourcing show, opens next Tuesday 18th February, at Olympia London, welcoming buyers, retailers, and sourcing professionals from around the world. Running until 20th February 2025, the show will host hundreds of makers and manufacturers from over 20 key sourcing regions, including Turkey, Taiwan, Ethiopia, Egypt, China, India, the UK, France, Hong Kong, and Portugal.

With leading retailers and brands such as ASOS, Barbour, Boohoo, Flannels, Frasers Group, French Connection, GANT, Hawes & Curtis, Jaded London, John Lewis, Lipsy, Lucy & Yak, ME+EM, Marks & Spencer, Moss Bros, Mothercare, New Look, Next, Oliver Bonas, Primark, Saraha, Toast, The Very Group, Whistles, already pre-registered, Source Fashion is set to be a must-attend event for businesses looking to source responsibly and discover innovative solutions to industry challenges.

A Platform for Innovation and Sustainability
The three-day event goes beyond sourcing, offering a dynamic content programme across two dedicated stages: The Source Catwalk Stage and the Source Debates Stage.

Visitors can explore the latest trends and insights into responsible fashion with The Source Catwalk Show – taking place three times daily, showcasing curated womenswear looks built from exhibitors’ collections, highlighting trends such as Circus Play, Romance, Plant Power, and Hyper Tactile.

Exhibitor Highlights
Source Fashion will feature an impressive line-up of responsible manufacturers from around the globe with the spotlight on the UK, Egypt, India, and Portugal. Highlights include:

• Dee Kay Knitwear (UK) – A leading supplier of high-quality wholesale knitwear.
• YOKA YO (UK) - Helping take designs from initial concept through to final product development.
• The Natural Fibre Company (UK) – An award-winning yarn manufacturer working with rare breeds and natural fibres.
• National Weaving (UK) – Specialists in premium woven and printed labels, with a focus on sustainability The Fashion Incubator (Egypt) – A sustainable fashion manufacturer specialising in knit, woven, sportswear, and swimwear.
• Desert Crafts Design Studio (India) – A womenswear manufacturer focused on casual and resort wear.
• WonderRaw (Portugal) – Experts in luxury blanks and fully customised garments made from 100% organic cotton.

Headline Designer: Stuart Trevor
Scottish-born fashion designer Stuart Trevor, founder of All Saints and sustainability advocate, is set to headline the Source Catwalk. After years mentoring brands with a positive social and environmental impact, Trevor’s latest label, STUART TREVOR, focuses on sustainable fashion made from repurposed materials. Trevor set out to create the world’s most sustainable brand with a mission to make buying sustainable products easier, more fun and create non-destructive clothing from other peoples’ waste. His designs will take centre stage at the Source Catwalk, demonstrating how fashion can be both stylish and sustainable.

The Source Catwalk also offers a diverse and informative programme of conversations with thought leaders, retail case studies and challenging panel discussions. Now located on the balcony, presenting leading voices within ethical fashion.

• Source Debates – A new stage for this year, providing an opportunity to voice thoughts and get involved in the conversations - tackling the industry biggest questions and challenges, from sustainability and circularity to transparency and the future of fashion sourcing.

Speaker Highlights

Source Fashion’s comprehensive speaker programme will bring together industry leaders, sustainability experts, and fashion innovators. Key sessions include:

• ‘From Fast Fashion to Circularity’ (Source Catwalk, Tuesday, 11:30 AM) – A discussion on how brands can shift towards sustainable models while competing in the fast-fashion landscape, featuring leaders from Vivo Footwear, Neem London, YOU Underwear, and Johnston’s of Elgin.
• ‘A collaborative journey from farm to fashion’ (Source Catwalk, Tuesday, 1:30pm) - explores how The Natural Fibre Company and John Smedley have forged a groundbreaking partnership, transforming heritage craftsmanship and sustainable innovation into a powerful success story.
• ‘Tech and sustainability: why data holds the key for a greener future’ (Source Catwalk, Tuesday 2:10pm) - Linda Pimmeshofer from Insider Trends explores how data-driven innovation can revolutionise fashion’s fight against emissions, with global examples and a vision for a tech-enabled future
• ‘The Urgency of Transparency’ (Source Catwalk, Wednesday, 11:00 AM) – A fireside chat with Andrew Xeni, Founder of Nobody’s Child and Fabacus, on why transparency is critical in building consumer trust.
• ‘Ecosystem Thinking in Fashion: Redesigning for Regeneration’ (Source Catwalk, Wednesday, 2:10 PM) - Safia Minney MBE, Founder of Fashion Declares is joined by Dr Sri Ram, Founder - Bags of Ethics, Supreme Group, Matthias Knappe, Head of Unit, International Trade Centre (ITC) and Nick Reed, Founder, Neem London for to explore scaling circular practices, adopting regenerative models, and building stronger supply chain relationships to inspire action and meaningful change.
• ‘A Clothing Company That Doesn’t Produce Clothes’ (Source Catwalk, Wednesday, 1:30 PM) – Stuart Trevor in conversation about his upcycling-focused brand and the future of circular fashion.
• Designing tomorrow: Is speculative thinking the key to fashion retail's future? (Source Catwalk, Wednesday, 1:30 PM) - Geraldine Wharry, Fashion Futurist, Trend Atelier on speculative design.
• ‘Taking the Lead When Legislation Falls Short’ (Source Debates, Thursday, 11:00 AM) – This session, with Safia Minney MBE, looks at how businesses can drive sustainability initiatives beyond Government mandates.
• Can fashion brands embrace sustainability without the fear of being perfect? (Source Debates, Thursday, 11:30 AM) - Jonny Rowe and Joe Russell, Co-Founders, Land of Plenty look at encouraging small wins, while questioning the common fears surrounding building out sustainable practices and the role storytelling and branding to help overcome these.

As part of an ongoing collaboration, The International Trade Centre, under the UK Trade Partnerships Programme, will showcase ethical suppliers from Ethiopia, Madagascar, Tanzania, and Nepal, providing visitors with an exclusive look at sustainable sourcing options from these regions.

ISKO announced a special collaboration with GANT, set to launch online and in selected stores on February 13th.

The partnership wants to combine timeless style and innovative sustainability, resulting in pieces that are both durable and fashion-forward. Crafted using recycled materials and ISKO’s advanced fabric technologies, this collection embodies strength, quality, and conscious design, demonstrating that sustainability does not have to compromise on style or performance.

This collaboration highlights both brands’ commitment to responsible fashion, leveraging the innovative use of recycled materials as well as patented fabric technology to create stylish, high-quality, and durable products.