From the Sector

A companion during studies and for practical use in the workplace: generations of textile experts have used the Denkendorf Fiber Chart to keep track of all the important characteristic values of textile raw materials. Following the first two editions in the 1970s and 1980s, scientists in Denkendorf have comprehensively revised the Fiber Chart. The third edition is now available in digital form for the first time.

The overview shows all important natural and synthetic fibers in SEM, microscope, and fiber array images, as well as a force-elongation diagram for each. It describes their chemical properties with key characteristic values such as specific strength, elongation, or hysteresis. Relevant brand names complete the overview and enable reliable guidance in the selection of materials for various products.

The Denkendorf Fiber Chart has a long tradition and has been a household name in the textile world for decades. With their many years of testing experience, participation in standardization committees, and numerous industry contacts, the scientists in Denkendorf worked closely with manufacturers and users to compile a comprehensive chart more than 50 years ago. The third edition of the Denkendorf Fiber Table is available as a poster and in digital form. The online platform offers a search function for fiber properties, allowing individual fibers and their properties to be compared. Data sheets and high-resolution images complete the offer.

In July, the DITF web shop was launched, enabling the textile research center to transfer knowledge. In addition to the fiber table, publications on research results and tickets for specialist events can be purchased.

The Lenzing Group, a supplier of regenerated cellulosic fibers for the textile and nonwovens industries, reported both revenue and earnings growth year-on-year in the first half of 2025. In the second quarter, however, international tariff measures and the resultant uncertainty led to tangible stress along the textile value chain and slowed the Lenzing Group’s recovery. Market prices remained at a low level while costs for raw materials, energy and logistics continued to be high. 
 
The Lenzing Group generated revenue of EUR 1.34 bn in the first half of 2025, which was higher than in the same period of the previous year. The operating earnings trend benefited significantly from the positive effects of the performance program. EBITDA grew by 63.3 percent to EUR 268.6 mn, which included positive exceptional effects from the sale of surplus EU emission allowances amounting to EUR 30.6 mn and the valuation of biological assets amounting to EUR 12.5 mn. The EBITDA margin rose from 12.5 percent to 20 percent. Earnings before interest and tax (EBIT) amounted to EUR 109 mn (compared with EUR 18.9 mn in the same period of the previous year), which corresponds to an EBIT margin of 8.1 percent (compared with 1.4 percent in the same period of the previous year). Earnings before tax (EBT) amounted to EUR 22.1 mn (compared with minus EUR 22.3 mn in the same period of the previous year). Earnings after tax improved significantly to EUR 15.2 mn (compared with minus EUR 65.4 mn in the same period of the previous year).  
 
“Lenzing made further progress on its path to operational recovery in the first half of 2025. Our performance program is making a clear contribution to earnings improvement. At the same time, we are seeing tangible effects from the growing uncertainties in international trade in the second quarter – particularly as a consequence of the aggressive tariffs policy. These developments not only affect our visibility, but also our earnings. For this reason, we are all the more determined to continue our measures to secure our turnaround in the long term and further strengthen our margins,” notes Rohit Aggarwal, Lenzing Group CEO.  
 
The Lenzing Group’s performance program is comprehensively geared towards strengthening long-term crisis resilience and enhancing agility in the face of market changes. The aim is to sustainably improve EBITDA and generate free cash flow through increased profitability and consistent cost excellence. Measures such as acquiring new customers for key products and expanding into smaller markets were implemented in order to strengthen sales activities and thereby revenue growth. At the same time, Lenzing is implementing measures to significantly improve its cost structure, which are being reviewed and further developed on an ongoing basis. Over EUR 130 mn in cost savings were already achieved in 2024. Progress was made especially in terms of product costs and product quality. The Managing Board also expects further efficiency gains in the coming quarters, especially in production costs and overhead functions. The ongoing improvements in structures, processes and personnel expenses are expected to lead to an increase in both revenue and margins. The Managing Board anticipates cost savings of in excess of EUR 180 mn in the current financial year.  
 
Lenzing has also successfully strengthened its capital structure over the course of the year to date. A syndicated loan of EUR 545 mn was concluded in May. The structure of the loan comprises a EUR 355 mn term loan with a three-year term and a revolving line of credit of EUR 190 mn, also with a three-year term and extension options totaling two years. In addition, a new EUR 500 mn three-year non-callable hybrid bond was successfully placed on the market. With these measures, Lenzing secures its financing until 2027 and can continue to focus fully on implementing its successful performance program to enhance margins and free cash flow as well as to improve the cost position. 
 
Outlook
For 2025, the IMF forecasts global growth of three percent, followed by 3.1 percent in 2026 – marking a slowdown compared to the previous year (2024: 3.3 percent). The projection remains below the pre-pandemic historical average. At the same time, the IMF warns of persistently high risks to the global economy: a renewed escalation of trade conflicts, geopolitical tensions, or tighter financing conditions could dampen growth and reignite inflationary pressures.  
 
In an environment characterized by uncertainty and a persistently high cost of living, consumers are anticipated to remain cautious. This is exerting a lasting negative impact on their propensity to spend. Given the announced tariff increases, the rise in spending on apparel in the USA in the first half of the year is to be regarded as a temporary, one-off effect and is unlikely to continue over the course of the remainder of the year. 
 
The currency environment is expected to remain volatile in regions relevant to Lenzing.  
 
In the global bellwether market for cotton, market analysts’ current forecasts anticipate a slight increase in stocks to around 16.3 mn tons for the coming 2025/26 harvest season. 
 
Lenzing will continue to consistently implement its performance program and will conduct ongoing evaluations in order to leverage further cost potentials and further improve its revenue and margin generation.  
 
At present, the Lenzing Group confirms its guidance for the 2025 financial year of year-on-year higher EBITDA.  
 
The ongoing tariffs conflict and associated uncertainty are negatively affecting market expectations and are continuing to exert a very restrictive effect on earnings visibility.   
 
In structural terms, Lenzing continues to expect growing demand for environmentally responsible fibers for the textile and apparel industry as well as the hygiene and medical sectors. Lenzing is therefore very well positioned with its strategy and is pushing both profitable growth with specialty fibers and the further expansion of its market leadership in the sustainability area. 

• Weak demand from semiconductor customers weighs on Group sales and earnings performance
• Restructuring of Carbon Fibers business unit successfully on track
• EBITDA margin almost stable at 16.0% in half-year comparison 
• Sales forecast for 2025 slightly adapted, adjusted EBITDA expectations confirmed

Increasing uncertainty about the future development of global trade, tariff increases between the US and Europe, and weak demand in some of their markets are weighing on SGL Carbon's sales and earnings performance. On the other hand, the restructuring of SGL's Carbon Fibers business unit is showing initial signs of success. After six months of fiscal 2025, SGL Carbon generated sales of €453.2 million, down 15.8% on the previous year (H1 2024: €538.0 million).

The decline in sales within the Group is primarily attributable to negative volume effects, while currency and price effects played only a minor role. In particular, the continuing weak demand from semiconductor customers in the Graphite Solutions business unit weighed on sales development. Furthermore, the Carbon Fibers business unit reported lower sales as a result of the discontinuation of unprofitable business activities as part of the restructuring.

The cost savings resulting from the restructuring of Carbon Fibers and a slight improvement in adjusted EBITDA in the Process Technology business unit were unable to offset the shortfall in earnings contributions from the decline in the high-margin semiconductor business. Adjusted EBITDA, an important key figure for the Group, decreased by 16.2% compared to the first half of 2024 to €72.5 million (H1 2024: €86.5 million). The adjusted EBITDA margin remained almost unchanged at 16.0% compared to the previous year (H1 2024: 16.1%).

Taking into account depreciation and amortization of €25.8 million (H1 2024: €27.0 million) and non-recurring and special items of minus €49.9 million (H1 2024: €3.6 million), EBIT for the first half of 2025 amounted to €3.2 million (H1 2024: €55.9 million). The non-recurring and special items result in particular from restructuring expenses of €47.0 million.

The restructuring announced in February 2025 showed initial success in the first half of 2025, with positive adjusted EBITDA for the Carbon Fibers (CF) business unit. The discontinuation of loss-making business activities resulted in a 15.1% decline in sales to €93.5 million (H1 2024: €110.1 million) but also led to an increase in adjusted EBITDA for CF from minus €4.4 million to €5.2 million year-on-year.

"As part of the CF restructuring, production at our site in Lavradio (Portugal), which mainly produced acrylic fibers and precursors for carbon fibers, was closed down. Production and consequently also our business activities in the acrylic fibers and precursors product areas were completely discontinued at the end of June 2025. CF will focus in future on profitable products with greater differentiation from the international competition," said Dr. Stephan Bühler, member of the Executive Board responsible for this area.

It should be noted that the adjusted EBITDA of the CF business unit includes an earnings contribution of €4.7 million from its equity-accounted joint venture BSCCB (H1 2024: €7.9 million). The decline in BSCCB's earnings contribution is due to the costs of expanding production capacity and volatile demand from automotive customers. Excluding the earnings contribution of the equity-accounted BSCCB, adjusted EBITDA for CF would have been €0.5 million (H1 2024: minus €12.3 million).

The Composite Solutions (CS) business unit was also unable to avoid the increasing uncertainty in the automotive industry about future growth prospects. CS sales declined by 11.7% to €59.1 million in the first half of 2025 (H1 2024: €66.9 million). It should be noted that the first six months of the previous year still included sales from a contract with an automotive customer that expired in the second quarter of 2024.

As a result of lower volumes and the associated lower utilization of production capacities, CS's adjusted EBITDA decreased by €2.7 million to €5.4 million (H1 2024: €8.1 million) compared to the same period last year. Accordingly, the adjusted EBITDA margin of CS declined to 9.1% (H1 2024: 12.1%).

Outlook
Increasing trade barriers, especially due to US tariff policy, are having a negative impact on the business development of their customers and sales markets. In particular, the high level of uncertainty about future developments in the automotive industry is currently weighing on demand for the company’s products. This also includes expected sales of electric vehicles, which are the main drivers of demand for silicon carbide semiconductors. Special graphite components from SGL Carbon are required to manufacture these high-performance semiconductors.

In light of the current economic environment and the expectations for developments in the sales markets in the upcoming months and taking into account restructuring measures in the Carbon Fibers business unit, the sales forecast for fiscal year 2025 is adjusted on July 14, 2025. Consolidated sales for the full fiscal year 2025 are expected to decline by 10% to 15% compared with the previous year (2024: €1,026.4 million). Previously, SGL Carbon had expected sales to decrease by up to 10% (slight decline) compared with the previous year.

Due to the discontinuation of loss-making business activities in the Carbon Fibers business unit and cost savings as part of the successful restructuring and associated improvement in profitability, the forecast for the Group's adjusted EBITDA for fiscal year 2025 remains unchanged in the range of €130 million to €150 million.

The EU funded T REX Project , which ran from June 2022 to May 2025, has wrapped up with a detailed blueprint for scaling textile to textile recycling. The roadmap brings together the work of 13 industry partners across Europe and captures what they’ve learnt through real world trials in recycling polyester, polyamide 6 and cellulosic materials.

The blueprint highlights what’s needed to scale textile-to-textile recycling. It points to key technical challenges like inefficient manual sorting and lack of high-quality waste textiles. Better automation, more efficient pre-processing, and a stable feedstock supply are seen as crucial next steps. Environmental impacts and business feasibility have also been considered throughout.

Policy support will be key to taking this forward. The project calls for consistent end-of-waste criteria, targets for recycled content, and shared definitions of recyclability. It also stresses the need for stronger financial and regulatory backing. Together with efforts in design, reuse and repair, this work aims to move the textile industry closer to a circular model.

The Swiss material science company Livinguard Technologies AG developed Livinguard Better Fresh - a textile finishing solution that combines leading odor control functionality with an innovative mechanism which reduces the shedding of microfibers over the entire lifetime of textiles. This technology marks a bold step towards a more sustainable future of apparel and provides a tangible solution to tackle the mounting challenge of chemical and microplastic pollution stemming from clothes. 

The environmental impact of textiles arising from microfiber shedding has increased over the past years as the use of synthetic fibers in the apparel industry continues to grow and fast fashion business models continue to gain share. Fiber fragmentation and resulting microplastic and chemical pollution affects waterways, the air and soil.

Livinguard Better Fresh combines a functional and an environmental benefit in a single solution. On the one hand, the technology provides leading odor control which is a valuable functional benefit for consumers. On the other hand, the solution reduces fiber fragmentation by up to 80% and extends the product’s useful life - resulting in a superior safety, environmental, and cost profile for apparel brands. Both claims have been extensively validated in the course of several in-house trials and testing conducted with independent laboratories.

This new product is the result of a long development journey with deep global collaboration. Livinguard leveraged extensive R&D investments over the past 15 years to develop a proprietary blend of chemistry that has then been thoroughly tested for performance, safety, environmental impact, and compliance with the highest industry standards in mind (e.g. bluesign). Furthermore, Livinguard Technologies used the company’s extensive knowhow in textile finishing to optimize and streamline the application of the technology in a real-world environment, ensuring the innovation can be deployed seamlessly on existing equipment and in established processes. 

Recognizing that awareness for the environmental impact of textile microfiber shedding is still emerging among consumers and that demand for solutions addressing this issue alone may be consequently limited, Livinguard Technologies have chosen to integrate odor control functionality, a well-understood and valued benefit, with this innovative fiber protection technology. This two-in-one solution allows brands and manufacturers alike to fund most costs for the chemical solution itself and for managing the complexity associated with its implementation by substituting their existing odor control technologies with Livinguard Better Fresh. Many established odor control solutions are prone to leach out over time and consequently increase chemical pollution arising from textiles. Livinguard’s new technology binds permanently to the treated fibers and strongly holds them together to ensure the least possible chemical and microfiber discharge. 
The Livinguard Better Fresh technology is officially launched during the Functional Fabric Fair in NYC and Functional Textiles in Shanghai while further validation activities are carried out with partners from academia, external laboratories as well as pilot customers (apparel brands & textile mills) worldwide.

This new technology can substantially contribute to various established solution pathways for microfiber pollution as it allows for the development or further improvement of low-shedding fabrics with minimal impact on established production equipment and supply chains. Furthermore, due to its built-in odor control functionality, it enables consumers to use their clothes longer and adopt more sustainable laundry practices (e.g. washing at lower temperatures). Finally, it enhances product longevity without any negative impact on recycling / circularity of the treated clothes. Overall, Livinguard Better Fresh provides a cost-effective solution to make tangible and substantial progress in the fight against plastic pollution quickly. 

At Isomi, the company has defined their approach by an ambition to work with materials in their purest, most purposeful form. With the Knit One Chair, they are taking this commitment further exploring how 3D knitting technology can unlock a more resourceful, intelligent way to make furniture. 

3D knitting is, at its essence, a digital manufacturing process that transforms a spool of yarn into a fully formed, three dimensional textile shape created directly on the knitting machine, without the need for cutting, stitching or excess trimming. This precise method has already reshaped industries like sportswear and footwear, celebrated for its ability to produce complex forms with minimal waste and remarkable structural integrity. In furniture, however, the possibilities of 3D knitting are only just beginning to be realised. Traditionally, upholstery involves layering foams, fabrics and fillers, glued and stapled into place, a process that generates off cuts, requires multiple materials, and makes recycling complicated at best. Knit One rethinks this entirely.

Fibre Extrusion Technology Ltd (FET) of Leeds, UK will be exhibiting at three major trade shows in Asia and Europe over the next 3 months.

This sequence begins in early September at Cinte Techtextil China, the leading trade fair for technical textile and nonwoven products in Asia. FET will be taking a 30sq. metre stand in conjunction with its agent and partner, Chemtax in Hall W5.

This will be followed by ITMA ASIA in Singapore, aimed at the textile and garment industry in South and Southeast Asia and the Middle East. This exhibition takes place at the end of October and FET can be found at Hall H4.

This trio of events is rounded off at COMPAMED 2025 between 17-20 November in Dusseldorf, Germany. This exhibition is widely recognised as a major international trade fair for the medical technology supplier sector. FET’s will be exhibiting in Hall 08B.

“This is a very hectic period for FET,” commented FET’s Managing Director Richard Slack. “However, these exhibitions provide a great opportunity for smaller specialist companies like FET to raise our profile on the international stage and reflects our growing influence in the fields of technical textiles, medical device innovation and many other sectors.”

FET designs, develops and manufactures extrusion equipment for a wide range of high value textile material applications worldwide and the diversity of these three exhibitions illustrates FET’s scope in the industry.

2025 marks a pivotal milestone for bluesign, the global authority in sustainable chemical and environmental management for the textile and fashion industry, as it celebrates 25 years of advancing cleaner, safer, and more responsible manufacturing practices across the global supply chain.

Since 2000, the Swiss-founded company has led the global charge towards a more sustainable future, developing a science-based, input stream management system to eliminate harmful substances at the source of textile production. Now spanning 900+ system partners across the globe, bluesign continues to deliver measurable reduction in environmental impact at an unprecedented scale. The company sets the global benchmark for responsible production with stringent criteria for chemical use, environmental performance, and resource efficiency, and  serves as a one-stop resource for navigating ESG and upcoming legislation  (CSDDD, CSR, ESPR, DPP etc), helping partners stay ahead of global compliance standards while embedding verified sustainability into every stage of production.

From its inception, bluesign’s mission has remained clear: remove harmful chemicals from textile production from the beginning, and hence ensure safer working conditions, reduced harm on the environment, and deliver safer products for consumers. Over 25 years, this mission has only strengthened, evolving to meet global challenges like PFAS elimination, decarbonization, and circularity, while driving continuous improvement across the industry.

Measurable Impact at Scale
The bluesign System enables its partners to make verified, measurable progress toward sustainability goals:

• Safer chemistry and materials: Over 28,000 chemical products and 70,000 textile materials carry the bluesign APPROVED status, signaling compliance with the strictest industry criteria and elimination of hazardous substances including CMRs and PFAS.
• Environmental Performance: Since 2019, bluesign System Partner manufacturers have collectively achieved the following improvements in environmental footprint:
• Global Reach: The bluesign network now includes over 900 System Partners across the world, including chemical suppliers, textile mills, manufacturers, and brands.
• Worker & Consumer Safety: The bluesign System ensures safe conditions for workers and non-toxic products for consumers, built on a foundation of transparency and accountability.

bluesign’s unique value lies in its holistic system, which tracks and verifies impact at every stage—from chemical inputs to final product. The independent, science-based verification process goes beyond traditional certification to ensure ongoing compliance and continuous sustainability improvements, building trust with stakeholders and empowering the industry to move forward responsibly.

Looking Ahead: The Next 25 Years
As the industry faces new challenges, including circularity and legislative shifts, bluesign continues advancing solutions that protect workers, consumers, and the environment, and remains committed to innovation and global impact.

As the industry faces new challenges, including due diligence, extended producer responsibility, and digital product passports, legislative shifts under the EU Green Deal, and rising expectations around circularity, bluesign remains committed to innovation and impact.

“bluesign was born out of a bold idea, that sustainability could be embedded into the DNA of product creation,” said Daniel Rüfenacht, CEO of bluesign technologies. “Twenty-five years later, we’re proud to be a beacon of trust, innovation, and responsibility, and to partner with industry leaders worldwide in building a more sustainable future together.”

Sustainability requires more than good intentions – as the 56th INNATEX in Hofheim-Wallau, near Frankfurt am Main, illustrated. Between 19 and 21 July 2025, over 200 Green Fashion brands gathered at the international trade fair for sustainable textiles to present collections for Spring/Summer 2026. On the Sunday in particular the atmosphere surrounding ordering was satisfyingly positive, especially in view of the general challenges in the market. 

“While fast fashion is growing, public interest in sustainable fashion has fallen. This is affecting not only retailers like us but the entire supply chain,” says Laura Ott, Buyer at Marlowe green fashion and marketing committee member of the International Association of the Natural Textile Industry (IVN). “We are all entrepreneurs facing similar challenges but our areas of focus and experience vary. Not least, this is a resource that is commercially valuable.” 

Reframing long-familiar concepts 
Many fashion brands rely on alternative materials that combine a number of benefits. Sloppy Tunas, for example, has collaborated in the development of its own high-tech textile, made in part from collected ocean plastic. The label from Barcelona uses it to make lightweight, quick-drying swim shorts and closes the cycle itself: Worn shorts are taken back and recycled together with offcuts from production to make new yarn and fabric. 

The call for innovation and functionality is so loud that well-established textiles which are by their very nature sustainable could slip into the background. Businesses are responding by reintroducing the classic fabrics. Clothing from Berlin-based label Moefe consists of 100% organic cotton. A special knitting technique helps the material keep its shape and makes it stable in shape and stretchy – even without elastic. Mor Khadi, on the other hand, is turning traditional Indian handcraft into modern streetwear. The special qualities of the Khadi fabric give the clothing breathable and thermo-regulating properties. 
 
Legal changes call for adaptability 
“The sector is in the midst of a fundamental transformation, caught between Sheinification, the shift to the political right, generation change, digitalisation and increasing pricesensitivity,” says Nina Lorenzen, co-founder of Fashion Changers and a member of the Expert Council Sustainability of the trade journal ‘Textilwirtschaft’. “Companies will remain relevant by being prepared to rethink their business – by turning shopping into an experience, for instance, or reshaping fashion into a statement and a form of protest.” 

Dealing with both the latest and pre-existing statutory requirements represents another challenge. By September 2026, the EU member states must transpose the EmpCo Directive (Empowering Consumers for the Green Transition), which came into force in 2024, into national law. Among other things, it regulates how companies may communicate sustainability. Another example affects the processing of leather. The EU is now imposing restrictions on a substance also used for ecological tanning. This will compel manufacturers to change their processes. 

“We see a huge need for discussion,” concludes Alexander Hitzel, Project Manager of INNATEX. “Demands on Green Fashion are getting more complex and more dynamic. There is no one simple solution for everyone involved and for all sets of problems. What matters now is that businesses can find precise answers to their specific questions. Platforms that generate ideas and promote cooperation are more important than ever.” 

On August 17 and 18, the INNATEX showroom in Bern (Switzerland) will be hosting some 40 brands at the end of the order season. 

Noise pollution can cause stress and damage our health. Whether in restaurants, open-plan offices, or schools, we are confronted with loud background noise in our everyday lives. Sound-absorbing materials are used to reduce noise. The German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) are developing a comprehensive system for measuring and predicting the acoustic properties of a wide variety of textiles. This research enables the development of a wide range of sound-absorbing or acoustically effective materials.

Currently, in addition to foams, nonwovens are mostly used as sound absorbers. However, these are relatively thick and not very stretchy. Textile fabrics such as woven or knitted materials are more elastic and flexible and are able to reduce noise more specifically in certain frequency ranges. This allows them to be individually adapted to existing or expected noise problems. However, these textile fabrics have rarely been used in acoustics to date.

In order to exploit this potential, research and development are encountering a problem: the measurement methods and simulation models used for nonwovens are not readily applicable to other types of textiles. Nonwovens consist of loosely arranged, interconnected fibers; they have what is known as a random fiber arrangement. In woven and knitted fabrics, on the other hand, the fiber arrangement has a recurring, non-random pattern. The different fiber arrangements result in significant differences in material properties. Due to a lack of alternatives, manufacturers of acoustic textiles still have to use these limited methods for their product development.

This is where the MetAkusTex research project comes in. Dr. Elena Shabalina, Head of the Technology Center E-Textiles & Acoustics at the DITF, explains: "In acoustics research, there is limited knowledge about the potential and diversity of textiles. As a textile research institute, we want to ensure that a wide range of textile structures, including 3D textiles, find their way into the world of acoustics. We are laying the necessary foundations for this." The DITF are developing new acoustic measurement and prediction methods that can be used to evaluate how different textiles interact with sound, whether they absorb, reflect, or scatter it. With the help of mathematical models, textile materials can be tested, adapted, and optimized for their acoustic effect as early as the design phase.

The project results will help companies make their product development processes more efficient and to design materials in a more targeted manner, for example, to make them sustainable. This will shorten time to market.

In addition to the development of new measurement methods, the acoustics laboratory at the DITF is being expanded. The measuring room with sound-absorbing walls and a sound-reflecting floor (semi-anechoic chamber) will be equipped with a modern data acquisition system. In addition to software, this includes various measuring microphones, loudspeakers, and a turntable to measure the sound quality of loudspeakers from different directions. The new acoustics laboratory will be used for research at the institute and will also be made available to industry for testing.
 
The MetAkusTex research project was funded by the Baden-Württemberg Ministry of Economic Affairs, Labor, and Tourism as part of the Invest BW - Praxissprints program.