From the Sector

At the SaigonTex 2025 textile machinery exhibition which is taking place from April 9-12 in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, Monforts will highlight the benefits of its advanced finishing technologies for denim.

Over 900 Monforts THERMEX hotflue dyeing systems are now operational in the main textile producing countries, with many of them devoted to denim production, and a significant number already reaping the benefits of the Econtrol® and Econtrol®T-CA processes*.

Econtrol® is a continuous process for the dyeing of woven cotton and cellulosic fabrics in which reactive dyestuffs are fixed into the fabric in a one-step dyeing and drying operation with a controlled combination of steam and air. The entire pad-dry process takes just two-to-three minutes at a temperature of between 120-130°C and a relative humidity volume of 25-30%.

Monforts denim range concepts which are successfully running worldwide enable the processing of high-qualtiy and reproducible fabrics which are stretched and skewed far more gently than with conventional range combinations. The ‘double rubber’ version of a THERMEX range comprises two compressive shrinkage units and two felt calenders in line, for super elastic and bi-elastic materials. Additionally, the combined drying, stretching and skewing functions for denim fabric are possible with the ThermoStretch unit, which can also include an EcoApplicator system for the minimum application of necessary finishing chemicals.

In 2024, Vietnam surpassed Bangladesh to become the world’s second-largest textiles and apparel exporter, trailing only China, with total export revenues reaching $44 billion. This is in part due to tariffs that are currently 10-20% lower than China’s and significantly cheaper labour costs – less than half of China’s.

Vietnam’s textile and apparel industry is poised for further expansion in 2025, leveraging cost advantages and rapid production turnaround while proactively managing rising logistics costs and adapting to shifting trade dynamics.

* Econtrol® is a registered trademark of DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH, Germany.

Aquafil launched, in Slovenia, the first demonstration plant for the chemical separation of elastic fiber from nylon, an innovative technology to open new perspectives in the textile fiber sector.

“After more than a decade of research and development, Aquafil marks a turning point in the world of textile fibers with the launch of a revolutionary technology: the first demonstration plant for the chemical separation of elastic fiber from nylon. The journey began in 2013, with a joint research project together with Georgia Tech University and the filing of an initial patent. Although industrialization had not materialized, the work of Aquafil researchers never stopped. The perseverance and dedication of the R&D team led, in 2022, to the publication of a new patent, the result of improved technology that was finally ready to be tested on a semi-industrial scale.

Today, thanks to this demo plant, the results of laboratory experiments are confirmed: for the first time, it is possible to effectively separate elastic fiber from nylon in blended fabrics – one of the most difficult challenges in recycling composite materials, particularly those from sportswear and swimwear, among the most problematic wastes in the textile sector. Indeed, the coexistence of different fibers within the same fabric has long been a tremendous obstacle to recycling, condemning tons of potentially recoverable materials to becoming waste”, stated Giulio Bonazzi, Chief Executive Officer.

The goal now is to optimize the process at every stage to define the set-up of a future large-scale industrial plant. Aquafil has activated a network of strategic stakeholders to ensure a steady flow of waste materials and build a solid and efficient supply chain that can feed an increasingly virtuous recycling model.

The nylon recovered through this technology will be entirely destined for the ECONYL® regeneration plant, where it will be processed into new regenerated nylon, ready for new textile applications. This is another step toward reducing dependence on virgin resources and making a concrete contribution to reducing the industry’s environmental impact.
 
The nylon waste is collected in locations all over the world and includes industrial waste but also products – such as fishing nets and rugs – that have reached the end of their useful life. Such waste is processed to obtain a raw material – caprolactam – with the same chemical and performance characteristics as those from fossil sources. The polymers produced from ECONYL® caprolactam are distributed to the Group’s production plants, where they are transformed into yarn for rugs carpet flooring and for clothing.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry issued the following statement on executive orders imposing significant tariffs on products from Canada and Mexico:

Last month, President Trump instituted significant tariffs on products from Canada and Mexico. While products that fall under the United States-Mexico-Canada Agreement (USMCA) have been excluded from these new tariffs to date, it has been reported that these exclusions may end in early April.

The nonwovens industry contributes to nearly $100 billion in economic output through sales to end users in North America. According to the National Association of Manufacturers, thanks to the USMCA: “one-third of critical U.S. manufacturing inputs now come from Canada or Mexico, rather than from competitors that often engage in unfair trade practices.”

At a time when manufacturers are facing cost pressures from many angles, it is imperative that American manufacturers remain competitive globally and have long-term clarity on import costs. As such, we urge President Trump to make the tariff exemption for USMCA products permanent and are ready and willing to work with the White House to promote a balanced trade policy.”

On the occasion of World Water Day, Jeanologia reaffirms its commitment to dehydrating and detoxifying the textile industry by presenting its Ecological Profit and Loss Account—a pioneering report that quantifies the positive impact of its innovative solutions in terms of water savings and emissions reduction.

The figures for 2024: 20,875,400 cubic meters of polluted water saved and a reduction of 98,4 million kilograms of CO₂ emissions—a contribution equivalent to the annual water consumption of a city the size of Valencia and the carbon capture in a year by a forest of 16,000 hectares, the same size as 22,400 football fields. This means millions of liters of wastewater have been prevented from reaching rivers and seas, and millions of kilograms of CO₂ from polluting the atmosphere.

Water scarcity: the textile industry’s challenge and the urgency to act
The fashion industry, one of the most water-intensive and waste-generating sectors, faces a critical challenge. Each year, it is estimated to use 93 billion cubic meters of water and generate 20% of the world’s wastewater, mostly due to processes like dyeing and garment finishing. This scenario highlights the urgent need for transformation.

The global water crisis demands concrete solutions. Jeanologia has proven that it is possible to produce fashion responsibly, significantly reducing environmental impact without compromising quality, authenticity, creativity, or profitability.

The denim revolution is driven by innovation. Since its founding three decades ago, Jeanologia has developed a integrated ecosystem of technologies that enable zero discharge and minimal water usage. Among its specialized solutions for the denim industry are:

• Laser: A pioneering technology that replaces traditional abrasion methods, eliminating the use of water and harmful chemicals.
• eFlow: Uses nanobubbles to transport chemicals precisely to fabrics, minimizing water usage and ensuring zero discharge.
• Airwash Tech (G2 Indra): Replaces conventional water-based garment washing with air, significantly reducing both water and chemical consumption.
• H2Zero: A closed-loop water recycling system that recovers up to 95% of water used during production.

Jeanologia has implemented these technologies in over 80 countries, working with leading global manufacturers to completely transform how jeans are made. Sustainability in the textile sector is no longer a promise—it’s a measurable reality.

Since its founding, Jeanologia has been on a mission to transform the textile industry into a more ethical, sustainable, and efficient model. The company works closely with brands, retailers, and suppliers on this transformative journey, offering disruptive technologies, innovative software, and a new operational model. Their groundbreaking solutions, including laser technology, G2 ozone, Dancing Box, e-flow, H2Zero, and ColorBox, have redefined garment design and finishing standards, eliminating polluting processes and significantly reducing the use of water, energy, and chemicals. Thanks to these advancements, Jeanologia has saved millions of liters of water and eliminated harmful substances, turning its vision of a truly sustainable textile industry into reality.

In 2025, Jeanologia celebrates its 30th anniversary, marking a legacy of three decades of sustainable innovation. From the introduction of its laser technology in 1999, which revolutionized denim finishing, to its current challenge of implementing a revolutionary sustainable garment dyeing process, the Spanish company has pioneered solutions that not only benefit the environment but also optimize operational costs. Looking ahead, Jeanologia remains committed to creating an eco-efficient and ethical textile future, encouraging all industry stakeholders to join its Mission Zero initiative: dehydrate and detoxify the textile industry. No more water and toxic chemicals used in garment finishing around the world.

The Lenzing Group is presenting the Lenzing Young Scientist Award at the Dornbirn Global Fiber Congress (GFC) from September 10 to 12, 2025 for bachelor, master and doctoral students who develop innovative solutions to ecological challenges in the fiber and textile industry. The deadline for applications is June 30, 2025. The best thesis by Bachelor's and Master's students will receive a prize of EUR 3,000, while the best doctoral thesis will receive EUR 5,000.

For the fourth time, the Lenzing Group honors young researchers with the Lenzing Young Scientist Award for excellent research work in the fiber and textile sector. The Dornbirn-GFC, as a platform for international exchange of experience in the field of fibers, offers an ideal stage for this research competition. Bachelor's and Master's students can submit their scientific work under the guiding theme “Unlimited inspiration from nature: Together we research sustainable innovations based on cellulose, including regenerated cellulose fibers and films, as well as cellulose composites” and face a jury of renowned experts from the industry. The aim is to support students who inspire the industry with their research results and create a platform for networking with the textile and fiber industry.

Austrian Fibers Institute as organizer of the Dornbirn GFC
For the 64th time, the Austrian Fiber Institute is organizing the Dornbirn Fiber Congress on a non-profit basis and will provide the framework for presenting the Lenzing Young Scientist Award from September 10 to 12, 2025. The Austrian Fiber Institute, based in Vienna, was founded in 1960 by fiber producers and the Austrian textile industry to promote the market launch of fibers and their products. The Fiber Institute also offers the opportunity to exchange information and experience about fibers and supports contact with educational institutions. The GFC focuses on an international exchange of experience in close coordination with the umbrella organization CIRFS in Brussels and deals with topics relevant to the future, such as fiber innovations, sustainability and the circular economy.

Applicants for the Lenzing Young Scientist Award have the opportunity to submit their work (theses, papers, etc.) in English until June 30, 2025 to the following e-mail address: YSA2025@lenzing.com. Further information can be found online at https://www.lenzing.com/young-scientist-award.

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals, has successfully implemented a state-of-the-art Zero Liquid Discharge (ZLD) technology at its Mahachai plant in Thailand. The ZLD solution was designed and built by Gradiant, a global leader in advanced water and wastewater treatment. This milestone project marks a major leap forward in water circularity, enabling the recovery of 90-95% of wastewater for reuse and the extraction of valuable minerals for industrial applications.

Archroma partnered with Gradiant to deploy a high-efficiency, membrane- and oxidation-based ZLD solution, reinforcing its commitment to responsible water management in the textile industry. Located in a water-stressed region near Bangkok, the Mahachai plant now serves as a model for sustainable textile dye production, significantly reducing reliance on local water supplies while improving environmental resilience.

As part of its broader sustainability endeavor, Archroma addresses critical challenges within the apparel and textile industry, particularly water consumption. “We believe in reducing water use in production and home laundering. We innovate to remove toxins and contaminants from our products, making wastewater treatment easier for our plants and customers,” said Dhirendra Gautam, VP Global Marketing and Strategy, Archroma. “Our goal is to require our plants to have effective water conservation facilities with special focus on water stressed areas, contributing to water conservation and helping to combat acute water scarcity worldwide.”

Since 2019, Archroma has evaluated various ZLD solutions to address growing water challenges in Thailand. Gradiant’s Counterflow Reverse Osmosis (CFRO) was selected as the preferred technology for its ability to treat diverse wastewater compositions with superior efficiency and minimal energy consumption. The modular system seamlessly integrates with the plant’s existing wastewater treatment infrastructure, maximizing desalination capacity and water recovery while reducing the plant’s environmental footprint.

In addition to CFRO, Gradiant’s Free Radical Oxidation (FRO) technology has been deployed to remove color and organics from the RO concentrate, ensuring safe discharge and meeting stringent environmental regulations. The system also enables the recovery of concentrated brine, which Archroma repurposes within the dyeing process or supplies to industry partners for applications such as resin regeneration and chlorine production, further promoting a circular economy in water and resource management.
Thailand faces mounting water stress due to climate change, extreme droughts, and aging infrastructure, making sustainable water management an urgent priority. By implementing Gradiant’s ZLD solution, Archroma significantly reduces its dependence on freshwater sources, ensuring long-term operational resilience in a resource-constrained environment.

This multi-million-dollar investment underscores Archroma’s dedication to water conservation and its broader mission to transform the textile industry through sustainable innovation. Beyond Thailand, Archroma continues to expand its ZLD initiatives globally, including its Sustainable Effluent Treatment (SET) plant in Jamshoro, Pakistan, which has been providing irrigation water to surrounding communities.

Archroma, a global leader in specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, has taken sustainable and cost-effective cellulosic dyeing to the next level with the introduction of AVITERA® RASPBERRY SE.

Extending the AVITERA® SE GEN NEXT platform color of deep shades, the IP-protected brilliant trichromatic red empowers mills to achieve rich, dark and extra-dark shades while meeting the stringent fastness and sustainability requirements of leading brands and retailers. The newest element also offers significantly lower processing costs, with focus on reducing the recipe cost together with reliable right-first-time performance as well, “AVITERA® SE revolutionized the dyeing of cellulosic fibers and blends when it was introduced 15 years ago – setting a new benchmark with state-of-the-art application and fastness performance and advanced sustainability,” Dhirendra Gautam, VP Marketing, Archroma said.

“Our goal was always to offer a full range of attractive colors without limits. With AVITERA® SE RASPBERRY SE as our new trichromatic red, we are now enabling fashion and textile companies to produce differentiated end articles in consistent and long-lasting dark and extra-dark shades with the same cost-competitiveness as in pale and medium shades. This is another major step forward on our PLANET CONSCIOUS+ journey to economic and environmental sustainability for our industry,” he continued.

Substantial Savings on Challenging Dark Shades
Dyeing darker shades – such as black, navy and especially red – has traditionally been more challenging and costly than dyeing lighter colors. Achieving a deep, uniform color requires higher dye concentrations and more water and energy, and often also demands additional steps or re-dyeing. Dark shades, particularly red, also tend to fade more quickly than light colors, especially when exposed to sunlight and repeated home laundering.

With high-speed low-temperature wash-off, high process reliability and excellent reproducibility on dark and ultra-dark shades, the AVITERA® SE GENERATION NEXT dyestuffs allow mills to achieve water and energy savings of up to 50% compared to best available technology, and to slash CO2 emissions and effluent discharge by up to 50% as well. They can also increase mill output by up to 25% or more.

International technology group ANDRITZ has supplied and commissioned a reXline tearing system for Buitex, Semin Group, located in Cours, France. The new production line enables the company to expand textile waste recycling for sustainable insulation production.

Founded in 1895, Buitex is a French manufacturer of high-performance recycled products. As a pioneer in circular economy practices, Buitex transforms textile waste into high-performance insulation and comfort products. Since joining the Semin Group in 2023, the company has operated a 20,000 m² production site equipped with six production lines and has become one of Europe’s major players in the circular economy.

This second ANDRITZ tearing line at Buitex increases the company’s recycling capacity while maintaining high fiber purity, thanks to an advanced hard-point removal system. The latest-generation cyclone technology further improves disruptor sorting, enhancing overall efficiency. The system can process up to an additional 2.5 tons of fiber per hour, enabling the production of recycled fibers for applications such as bedding, construction, and automotive insulation.

"It is crucial for us to make the building insulation industry more sustainable by giving new life to post-consumer clothes that would otherwise be incinerated or end up in landfills. The European market has abundant raw materials and a strong demand for sustainable insulation products. With this new line, ANDRITZ enables us to significantly enhance our recycling capabilities,” says Adam Adamowicz, CEO of Buitex.

Order intake was significantly higher than in the previous year at CHF 725.5 million (2023: CHF 541.8 million), representing an increase of 34%. This was the fourth consecutive quarter of year-on-year growth. An initial market recovery was visible compared with the previous year. As expected, the Rieter Group closed financial year 2024 with lower sales of CHF 859.1 million (2023: CHF 1 418.6 million) and thus remained 39% below the prior year. Despite significantly lower sales, an operating result (EBIT) of CHF 28.0 million (2023: CHF 104.8 million) and thus a solid EBIT margin of 3.3% (2023: 7.4%) was achieved.

Sales by division
The Machines & Systems Division posted sales of CHF 424.9 million, a decrease of 56% compared with the previous year (2023: CHF 965.0 million). In the Components Division, sales declined to CHF 247.6 million, down 7% from the same period of the previous year (2023: CHF 266.2 million). The After Sales Division reported sales of CHF 186.6 million, comparable to the previous year (2023: CHF 187.4 million).

Order backlog
At the end of 2024, the company had an order backlog of about CHF 530 million (December 31, 2023: CHF 650 million).

EBIT, net profit and free cash flow
Profit at the EBIT level in the year under review was CHF 28.0 million (2023: CHF 104.8 million), which represents an EBIT margin of 3.3% (2023: 7.4%). Despite significantly lower sales, a solid EBIT margin was achieved. This is mainly due to the consistent implementation of the measures set out in the “Next Level” performance program. Rieter closed the 2024 financial year with a net profit of CHF 10.4 million (2023: CHF 74.0 million).

Free cash flow amounted to CHF 14.1 million (2023: CHF 118.7 million). Net debt increased due to new lease liabilities in connection with the Campus in Winterthur to CHF 230.3 million (2023: CHF 191.2 million).

The equity ratio as of December 31, 2024, rose to 33.7%, mainly due to positive currency effects and lower net working capital (previous year’s reporting date 28.8%).

Dividend
The Board of Directors proposes to shareholders the distribution of a dividend of CHF 2.00 per share for 2024 based on the positive free cash flow of CHF 14.1 million and the improved equity ratio of 33.7%. This corresponds to a payout ratio of 85.8%.

Sustainability
Rieter has a clearly defined sustainability strategy that is closely linked to the Group strategy. Through the Science Based Targets initiative, Rieter made a commitment in 2024 to define company-wide emission reduction targets for the year 2040, which are consistent with scientifically-based net-zero goals.In the 2024 Annual Report, the report on non-financial matters shows the progress Rieter has made in the areas of environmental, social and corporate governance.

Outlook 2025
Rieter expects a challenging first half in 2025 with regard to sales volume and a stronger second half-year depending on the further market recovery. As a consequence, Rieter anticipates a sales volume at the previous year’s level for the full year 2025. Despite this exceptionally low sales level, Rieter anticipates a positive EBIT margin between 0% to 4% for the year 2025.

Beaulieu Fibres International is exhibiting its next-generation sustainable fibre solutions for high performance nonwovens in various industries at IDEA25 in Miami Beach end of April.

“IDEA25 is at the intersection of nonwoven materials and sustainability, with a focus on innovation and research to address environmental challenges and new opportunities. With our Sustainable Fibres Program, we offer low carbon, recyclable and circular solutions where performance and sustainability go hand in hand, bringing value in co-design and TCO performance,” said Maria Teresa Tomaselli, General Manager, Beaulieu Fibres International.

Self-reinforced PP fibres for fully recyclable automotive composites
The company will be presenting its comprehensive range of polypropylene (PP) bonding fibres designed for thermoplastic lightweight composites and automotive interior fabrics. These fibres assist car manufacturers and OEMs in meeting stringent performance, cost-efficiency, and sustainability standards. Beaulieu’s PP fibres are engineered to enhance the mechanical, thermal, and functional properties of composites while reducing vehicle weight.

Fibres for high performance liquid and air filtration
Beaulieu has set new performance standards for the fast-growing air and liquid filtration industry rolling out its full range of MONO and BICO fine-medium count fibres, as an outcome of its investment into R&D efforts to promote staple fibres in the field of high efficiency filtration.

In addition to its existing portfolio of PP fibres for liquid filtration, compliant with FDA and European food contact regulations, Beaulieu is launching a new bicomponent fibre range in PET/PE, PP/PE for high loft filtration media and fine count mono PP fibres for tribo-electric charged air filter media.

The fine count mono fibres are customized according to the line specifics of the nonwoven producer and guarantee up to 20% higher filtration efficiencies for nonwovens in combination with state-of-the-art acrylic counter fibre compared to standard PP fibres used in this application. Typical applications are air handling units in larger buildings and residential furnaces.

Premium outdoor PP fibres for resilient, weather-resistant crop protection solutions
Engineered for superior mechanical strength and resistance to environmental stress factors, these fibres enhance durability in needle-punched fabrics, ensuring long-lasting protection in the field. Their advanced UV stabilization prevents degradation from prolonged sun exposure, extending the lifespan of crop covers, while their hydrophobic properties repel water, reducing moisture-related damage and maintaining breathability.

Ultrabond, design for recycling
Discover UltraBond innovative bonding staple fibres that replace the need for chemical binders. They open a path to create 100% polypropylene (PP) needlepunched fabrics which meet the same performance requirements as traditional constructions, while reducing end-of-life environmental impact.

The 100% polyolefin-based needlepunched fabrics are fully recyclable, reducing waste generation and creating high value PP recycled products as new materials. Furthermore, the sustainable fabrics are produced with an improved Total Cost of Ownership and with a significant ecological footprint reduction.

Beaulieu strengthening its position in the hygiene market
With a full portfolio already serving the hygiene sector, Beaulieu is focusing on next-generation speciality bicomponent solutions designed to enhance softness, processability, and sustainability in absorbent hygiene products.

Hypersoft fibres are specifically engineered for topsheet applications in direct contact with the skin: 25% improvement in softness compared to standard reference fibres while maintaining optimal processability has been achieved.

Meralux is a bicomponent trilobal fibre that improves nonwoven materials by providing better opacity, comfort, and absorption. It also promotes sustainability by saving raw materials and reducing carbon emissions by up to 60%.