From the Sector

Jeanologia celebrates the 25^th anniversary of its pioneering laser technology at Kingpins Amsterdam, with a unique capsule collection that blends the nostalgia of traditional denim with technological advances that have revolutionized the industry. This joint celebration with Kingpins – commemorating their 10th anniversary in Amsterdam and 20th globally – highlights the global impact of laser technology through a visual installation that traces a quarter century of innovation, with a focus on the future.

The launch of Jeanologia’s first laser in 1999 marked the beginning of a new era for the textile industry, improving sustainability, quality, and efficiency. By eliminating hazardous practices like sandblasting, this disruptive technology enhanced processes and redefined the concepts of innovation and sustainability in an industry rooted in craftsmanship. Today, this technology is used in 50% of global jean production, solidifying its position as an essential tool for top manufacturers and fashion brands.

Jeanologia has successfully integrated laser technology into the DNA of denim without losing sight of its classic heritage. This balance between tradition and modernity has cemented its significant impact on the industry. “Laser has enabled more sustainable production and opened up creative possibilities that were once unimaginable,” says Fernando Cardona, Head of Jeanologia's Brainbox.

25 LASER YEARS capsule collection of ‘old new designs’
To commemorate this milestone at Kingpins Amsterdam, Jeanologia will offer an interactive visual journey through the history of their laser technology and present a specially designed capsule collection to celebrate this anniversary.

This installation will showcase a special collection that captures the magic of laser by merging the classic with the modern. Patches, embroidery, and natural wear effects evoke the nostalgia of traditional denim, while the technology plays the silent protagonist behind each finish. The garments illustrate how laser allows iconic vintage effects such as stone washing, worn-out looks, washing marks, rips, and marbling effects using tools like the “Light Ripper” or “Light Scrapper.” The collection also explores the numerous creative possibilities these tools enable, including hyper realistic laser details, denim elements and bleach-like stains. This nostalgic approach invites the reinterpretation of the past through updated historical models that encapsulate the idea of continuous evolution and improvement in laser design.

This "old new designs" capsule collection symbolizes the connection between Jeanologia's legacy and its vision of a greener, more responsible textile industry, celebrating its history while inviting both the industry and consumers to be part of a more sustainable future in denim.

As part of the 25th-anniversary celebration, Jeanologia will offer a digital version of this capsule collection, with 25 digital designs that pay homage to the evolution of laser technology and its transformative impact. Visitors can also experience the unique digital design process with eDesigner software, taking home their digital garment to produce it sustainably anywhere in the world.

Jeanologia invites brands, designers, and consumers to be part of a new era of denim, where tradition and technology merge to create a greener, more innovative, and sustainable future.

A tribute to the ‘Denim Tribe’
Jeanologia does not commemorate this anniversary alone. The collections and the accompanying narrative are a shared tribute to the global community of brands, designers, and manufacturers who have embraced laser technology and contributed to its progress. “More than a celebration for Jeanologia, this is recognition of the entire industry, the ‘denim tribe’ that has courageously and responsibly adopted this technology, advancing towards a more sustainable future in fashion. Without their collaboration, we wouldn’t have achieved this impact,” emphasizes the Head of Technological Development at Jeanologia.

adidas announced preliminary results for the third quarter of 2024. In Q3, currency-neutral revenues increased 10% versus the prior year. In euro terms, the company’s revenues grew 7% to € 6.438 billion (2023: € 5.999 billion). Excluding Yeezy sales in both years, currency-neutral revenues increased 14% during the quarter.

The company’s gross margin increased 2.0 percentage points to 51.3% in Q3 (2023: 49.3%). The year-over-year increase of the underlying adidas gross margin was even stronger. The company’s third quarter operating profit increased to € 598 million (2023: € 409 million), including a contribution of around € 50 million from the sale of parts of the remaining Yeezy inventory.

The company has increased its full-year guidance to reflect the better-than-expected performance during the quarter and the current brand momentum. adidas now expects currency-neutral revenues to increase at a rate of around 10% in 2024 (previously: increase at a high-single-digit rate). The company’s operating profit is now expected to reach a level of around € 1.2 billion (previously: to reach a level of around € 1.0 billion).

Within its guidance, the company assumes the sale of the remaining Yeezy inventory during the remainder of the year to occur on average at cost. This would result in additional sales of around € 50 million and no further profit contribution in the fourth quarter.

Authentico® by Schneider Group as a brand stands for a complete, transparent, verified, traceable, ethical and high-quality wool supply chain – from farm to garment. It aims to be recognised as the global brand that enables the fashion industry, together with end-consumers, to choose new levels of premium quality comprising fully traceable and responsible wool, in compliance with a carefully structured approach that verifies, traces and brands the sourcing and manufacturing processes throughout the whole supply chain. Authentico® is based on the Schneider Group global certified network.

For the second year Authentico® by Schneider Group attends the Textile Exchange Conference, that will be held on October 28-31 at Pasadena Convention Center, CA.
The Conference will be an opportunity to discover the Authentico® by Schneider Group brand story together with a selection of the first Authentico® fabric collections in partnership with Marzotto Group.

The partnership with Marzotto, launched during the July edition of Milano Unica, has the goal of guaranteeing a complete, transparent, ethical and high-quality supply chain for wool fabrics where style and quality are supported by the responsible production and innovation of two consolidated groups that combine a long tradition of savoir faire with the name “Marzotto” and the know-how of the Schneider Group and its brand Authentico® with the increasingly pressing need to guarantee traceability and ethics along the entire supply chain, in order to add value to value.

The result of Marzotto Group joining Authentico® was the beginning of a journey for various wool mills in the group like Fratelli Tallia di Delfino, Guabello|1815, Marzotto Fabrics, Marlane and the women’s divisions Opera Piemontese and Estethia G. B. Conte, which began during Milano Unica and continues at the Textile Exchange Conference.

The ZEBRA (Zero wastE Blade ReseArch) project marks a significant leap forward in the recycling and circular economy for wind turbine blades. This collaborative effort demonstrates a breakthrough in the complete recycling of thermoplastic blades achieving significant environmental and economic benefits.

The ZEBRA project is a unique partnership led by the French Institute for Technological Research, IRT Jules Verne. Joining forces are industry leaders Arkema (resin supplier), Owens Corning (glass fiber supplier), LM Wind Power (blade manufacturer), SUEZ (dismantling and waste processing), CANOE R&D center (recycling technology), and ENGIE (life cycle analysis).

Each company played a crucial role in the development of the closed-loop recycling process:

• Arkema developed and validated the generation of recycled Elium® monomer through thermolysis, and, together with its subsidiary Bostik, an innovative adhesive for the blade assembly that is recycled together with Elium® paving the way for industrial-scale implementation.
• Owens Corning successfully recovered glass fiber at pilot scale, enabling its reintroduction into the production process for their Sustaina® product line.
• LM Wind Power manufactured two wind turbine blades with Arkema’s Elium® resin and Owens Corning’s Ultrablade® fabrics; one blade including a large structural element made with recycled Elium® resin.
• SUEZ provided cutting and grinding expertise for processing the blades.
• CANOE R&D center optimized recycling for production and carbon blade waste, additionally developing methods for repurposing waste streams through mechanical recycling.
• ENGIE conducted a comprehensive life cycle analysis demonstrating the environmental benefits of closed-loop ZEBRA blades and validated their economic viability.

A Sustainable Future for Wind Energy
The ZEBRA project successfully recycled Elium® resin and Ultrablade® fabrics from wind turbine blades and manufacturing waste, reformulating them back into usable materials. This closed-loop process addresses the growing challenge of end-of-life blade management within the wind energy industry.

• Recycled Elium® Monomer: Arkema achieved a yield of over 75% in the thermolysis process, paving the way for industrial-scale production of recycled resin.
• Recovered Glass Fiber: Owens Corning successfully retrieved glass fiber for remelting and reintegration into their Sustaina® product line.
• Life Cycle and Cost Analysis: ENGIE's study confirmed the significant environmental benefits and economic viability of ZEBRA blades when assuming a closed-loop recycling system from production to end-of-life.

ZEBRA blade using Elium® thermoplastic resin, Bostik’s highly compatible adhesive and Ultrablade® fabrics is bringing the best closed-loop recycling solution compared to traditional thermoset system. The operating cost and investments for recycling facility are significantly lowered. The CO2 emission linked to the recycling operations is reduced as well. All those results are making the closed-loop recycling solution of ZEBRA blades a viable option both on economic and environmental standpoints.

By demonstrating the feasibility of full wind turbine blade recycling, the ZEBRA project paves the way for a more sustainable future in the wind energy sector.

Specialty chemicals innovator Perstorp, a wholly owned subsidiary of PETRONAS Chemicals Group Berhad (PCG), received a platinum medal for being among the top 1 percent of companies assessed for sustainability by EcoVadis.

Perstorp progressed in all four assessed areas compared to the previous year; Environment, Labor & Human rights, Ethics and Sustainable Procurement.

Since its founding in 2007, EcoVadis has grown to become one of the world's largest and most trusted provider of business sustainability ratings, creating a global network of more than 130,000 rated companies. The EcoVadis sustainability assessment methodology is an evaluation of how well a company has integrated the principles of Sustainability/CSR into their business and management system. The methodology is built on international sustainability standards, including the Global Reporting Initiative, the United Nations Global Compact, and the ISO 26000, covering 220+ spend categories and 180+ countries.

Girbau, a leading company in comprehensive textile care solutions, has been awarded the Bronze Medal by EcoVadis. This recognition places Girbau among the top 20%, based on the obtained score, leading companies assessed by EcoVadis in the past 12 months, demonstrating its commitment to sustainable business practices and responsible corporate governance across environmental, social, and ethical areas.

EcoVadis evaluates companies across several key areas, including Environment, Labor & Human Rights, Ethics, and Sustainable Procurement. Girbau’s bronze rating places the company among the top performers in its sector, reflecting its dedication to reducing environmental impact, ensuring responsible sourcing, and promoting fair labor practices.

Thus award differentiates and recognizes Girbau as a preferred partner within the hospitality sector and among the members of the Hospitality Alliance for Responsible Procurement (HARP), an EcoVadis-powered sector initiative.

Girbau’s sustainability strategy is built on a foundation of continuous innovation and responsible practices to reduce the environmental impact of its products and operations. Key initiatives include the development of resource-efficient technologies, such as water reuse and treatment systems, and the creation of zero-waste production processes and is working to cut its carbon footprint by promoting the use of long-lasting and low emissions equipment.

The Lenzing Group, a supplier of regenerated cellulose fibers for the textile and nonwovens industries, acquired of a minority share in TreeToTextile AB, joining the existing shareholders H&M Group, Inter IKEA Group, Stora Enso, and LSCS Invest. The group of owners is united by the strong belief that sustainably produced fibers will have the power to change the textile industry to the better.

TreeToTextile was established as a joint venture in 2014 with the objective of developing a more sustainable process for cellulosic fiber production. The company has operated pilot lines since 2015 and invested in a demonstration plant in 2021. The next step in the company's evolution will be to scale up the production and make its fibers available on the market.

Lenzing Group has produced sustainable regenerated cellulosic fibers and dissolving wood pulp for over 85 years. “We are excited about TreeToTextile’s award-winning technology and production process, which further reduces environmental impact, promotes the transition to a more sustainable future and is fully in line with our corporate strategy,” says Rohit Aggarwal, CEO of the Lenzing Group.

Dr. Roxana Barbieru, CEO of TreeToTextile, adds: “Now with the additional expertise and sustainability leadership of our new shareholder Lenzing Group, our speed to market will increase significantly, to reach our ambitious goals and become an important player in the textile industry.”

The Cleanzone, the trade fair for cleanroom and purity technology, hygiene and contamination control, took place in Frankfurt am Main on September 25 and 26, 2024. The Cleanzone Award is presented at the trade fair to recognize groundbreaking advances in innovation, automation, sustainability and efficiency in the field of cleanroom technology. This year, the award went to the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) and the Dastex Group GmbH for the development of a test method for cleanroom garments - the ReBa².

With the Realistic Bacterial Barrier (ReBa²) test method, the DITF offer a new biological method for determining the bacterial penetration for cleanroom garment textiles. Particularly in the manufacturing of sterile pharmaceuticals, bacteria, skin flakes and fiber particles that can originate from persons and their clothing pose a risk to the products manufactured in the cleanroom. Special cleanroom garments have the task of minimizing this risk. To assess the barrier function, the “bacterial penetration” is determined, among other properties. This provides information on how many bacteria from the human skin flora pass through the cleanroom garments to the outside when worn.

The ReBa² test method largely reproduces the situation when wearing cleanroom garments and thus enables a meaningful determination of the bacterial penetration. It is also possible to consider numerous test scenarios. In addition to the influence of intermediate garments worn under the cleanroom garments, the sweating process or the pre-wetting of the cleanroom garments by liquid splashes in the manufacturing process or by disinfectants can also be tested. The method was developed at the DITF in collaboration with the Dastex Group GmbH.

Indorama Ventures concentrates large parts of its high-performance polyester filament yarn production for the European textile industry around 100km west to Milan, Italy.

By transferring current German production and bundling the company’s spinning, draw texturizing and dyeing expertise in Sandigliano and its neighboring site in Saluzzo, Indorama Ventures executes on its strategy to transform its global asset network into a focused footprint that can serve volatile markets.

European textile filament customers will benefit from efficient, reliable supply of high-quality, colored, spun and package dyed, as well as functional yarns for a vast range of applications in customized quantities. End use applications are, among others, in apparel, home textile, woven label and automotive interior markets.

“While European customers value our expertise and supply capabilities from within the region, they also expect us to be highly cost competitive”, explains Vipin Kumar, Chief Operating Officer of Indorama Ventures’ fibers business. “Consolidating our capabilities will be most efficient moving forward and allow us to continuously serve our European customers with highly specialized and proven quality-products and services competitively.”

The company’s twisting and air texturizing processes will continue to be performed out of Bulgaria.

At this year's CINTE Techtextil fair in Shanghai, DILO received the innovation award for its intensive needling technology “MicroPunch”. Recent developments in energy costs, particularly for electricity and gas, and given the increasing shortage of water resources, have led to a shift in thinking over the past few years. Together with economic efficiency, the evaluation of the environmental impact of production has become increasingly important.

For DILO, this meant focusing on needling technology for the fine and lightweight nonwoven sector over the last years. The individual elements of the intensive needling technology underwent a complete revision. It became clear that the high production rates could only be achieved using the two-dimensional kinematics of the needle beam of "HyperPunch" or "CycloPunch." The necessary high feed rates of around 50 mm per stroke, coupled with the highest stitching densities to achieve good abrasion resistance, led to a need of a significant increase of the number of needles and needle density—almost doubling from approximately 20,000 needles/meter/board to around 45,000 needles/meter/board. It also became obvious that ensuring a high efficiency rate in production also required the careful attention to a quick assembly of the needle boards with needle modules. A completely new approach was needed in the design and construction of the needle boards to enable rapid module exchange and achieve a very high mechanical precision.

Previously, needling technology was primarily used for a surface weight range starting at 100 g/m² up to several kilograms per m². The expansion into the range below 100 g/m², and potentially down to 30 g/m², now completes the applicability of needling technology. The intensive needling technology "MicroPunch" opens up an economical field for a wide variety of lightweight nonwoven fabrics that can be produced by a pure mechanical processes. The product characteristics achieved, such as abrasion resistance, are comparable to those of hydroentangeld nonwovens. Needled fabrics tend to have more volume and more stretch while offering similar tensile strength values. These special quality characteristics are particularly interesting for applications in hygiene, medicine, cosmetics, and for technical products.

With this new development, the energy required to produce lightweight nonwoven fabrics has been reduced up to approximately 75% compared to other bonding technologies of this segment.