From the Sector

In recent years, Vietnam has rapidly transformed into one of the world’s key textile producers, solidifying its position as the world’s third-ranked exporter behind China and Bangladesh. With a history rooted in silk textile craftsmanship and currently embracing wide ranging modern textile production, the country’s thriving sector offers tremendous growth prospects for both domestic and international businesses. In a bid to harness the potential in Vietnam and Southeast Asia, the Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) will return from 26 – 28 February 2025, with a renewed focus on promoting sustainability and digital transformation.

Vietnam's textile and apparel sector comprises approximately 7,000 companies and employs over three million workers, with 80% of production capacity used for export and 20% for domestic consumption. Progress is aided by well-developed logistics networks, skilled labour and a stable political environment. As its textile industry evolves, several key trends are influencing its future direction, reflecting a growing emphasis on sustainability and technological advancement, and leading to new opportunities for exhibitors and buyers across the value chain at Vietnam’s comprehensive textile showcase.

Major trends shaping Vietnam's textile market reflected at VIATT
More Vietnamese enterprises are adopting eco-friendly materials, including organic cotton, recycled polyester, and Tencel, while numerous global brands manufacture in Vietnam, and have committed to the "Fashion Industry Charter on Climate Action", aiming to achieve net-zero carbon emissions by 2050.

To further advance sustainable initiatives in the domestic and international textile industry, VIATT 2025 will introduce Econogy Hub, a dedicated platform for innovative, eco-friendly suppliers and service providers to connect with like-minded visitors. The show’s other new Texpertise Econogy features will include the Econogy Finder, an independent verification tool to help sustainable exhibitors effectively communicate their green credentials, and Econogy Talks, the overarching category for eco-focused seminars, forums, and product presentations.

Apart from sustainability, the Vietnamese textile industry is also embracing advanced technologies in design and manufacturing. The launch of the fair’s Innovation & Digital Solutions Zone will provide a centralised platform for exhibitors to showcase innovations such as 3D printing, AI-driven design, and digital printing, which enable manufacturers to boost efficiency and customise products to meet specific market demands.

As well as the introduction of two new product zones, the India Pavilion, organised by The Cotton Textiles Export Promotion Council (TEXPROCIL), will also make its debut at VIATT 2025. Additionally, the Japan and Taiwan Pavilions have confirmed their return, with the Japan Pavilion recognised by VIATT’s visitors as a standout showcase within Southeast Asia's textile fair landscape. Overall, the fair will feature a diverse range of exhibitors across apparel, home textiles, and technical textiles, with many showcasing innovative and sustainable products.

The Vietnam International Trade Fair for Apparel, Textiles and Textile Technologies (VIATT) is organised by Messe Frankfurt (HK) Ltd and the Vietnam Trade Promotion Agency (VIETRADE), covering the entire textile industry value chain.

When PERFORMANCE DAYS opens its doors on October 23 and 24, 2024, in Halls A1 and A2 at the Messe München exhibition grounds, visitors will once again find fabric innovations for Fall/Winter 2026 across the segments of performance wear, footwear, accessories, and, for the first time, bodywear. The jury, composed of renowned industry experts, reviewed the latest fabrics for the 2026 season in the Trend, Footwear, and Bodywear Forum, looking for outstanding innovations. A total of one Performance Award and one Eco Performance Award were presented.

PERFORMANCE DAYS continues to deliver plenty of highlights and innovations in technical fibers and materials in the Trend Forum at the winter exhibition. Since Fall 2023, the event has also focused on the footwear segment, summarizing the latest trends and news in the dedicated Footwear Forum. Starting in October 2024, the organizers will introduce a new Bodywear Collective, complete with a corresponding Trend Forum. In close collaboration with the London Contour Experts and designer and industry expert Nichole de Carle, PERFORMANCE DAYS will feature a Trend Forum dedicated to underwear, shapewear, bras & leggings, yoga in motion, and swimwear.

The expert jury, led by Marco Weichert, CEO of PERFORMANCE DAYS, Jury Head Alexa Dehmel, and guest jurors Regina Goller, a textile expert with experience in sustainable functional fabrics at companies like Odlo, Puma, and Jack Wolfskin, as well as Stephan Prinz, Account Manager Germany at Klopman, praised the quality, sustainability approaches, and high level of innovation in the submissions. The jury awarded one Performance Award (Bodywear) and one Eco Performance Award (Apparel).

The winners are: A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA & Penn Textile Solutions GmbH/Penn Italia SRL
For the Fall/Winter 2026 season, the jury selected three awards for outstanding fabrics.

Alongside the Eco Performance Award, which went to A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA for the article “69222/Colorful chemistry featuring holistic farming,” one Performance Award
was also presented for the first time in the bodywear segment: Penn Textile Solutions GmbH/Penn Italia SRL made their debut in the Bodywear Forum with "13949.

ECO PERFORMANCE AWARD: A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA / Article “69222 - Colorful Chemistry Featuring Holistic Farming”
In collaboration with Good Earth Cotton, this project focuses on sustainable farming practices to reduce the environmental impact of cotton while improving soil health, paving the way for a carbon-neutral future. The supplier is also exploring innovations with organic cotton grown using regenerative farming methods, expanding the scope for future eco-friendly concepts. Additionally, the fabric is dyed using biological dyes—an innovative technique where natural bacteria produce pigments that bond efficiently with the fabric a low temperatures without the use of petrochemicals. The fabric is available in pink and
sand.

Jury Statement: “This fabric takes this year’s focus topic to the next level! A. Sampaio & Filhos – Têxteis SA’s fabric innovation showcases the future of dyeing with microorganisms. Textile dyeing with living organisms is a sustainable and resource-efficient method that requires no harmful chemicals. Additionally, the fabric, made from 100% organic cotton, excels in performance due to an innovative body-mapping concept that provides optimal support during wear.”

PERFORMANCE AWARD: Penn Textile Solutions GmbH / Penn Italia SRL / Article “13949” This fabric, composed of 68% recycled polyamide and 32% ROICA, with a weight of 290 grams, is perfect for baselayer construction. It can be customized with the brand’s own design, featuring open structures and a 3D effect for added texture. Despite its structure, the fabric has an incredibly soft touch, ensuring maximum comfort during wear. Jury Statement: “Penn Textiles was a popular vote, an award worthy of the jury. The fabric has a combination of high density opaque areas with lighter breathable panels. A superior choice for the Bodywear Category because of its customisable 3D design aesthetic, printable qualities and second skin super soft touch. The fabric blend of Roica yarn and recycled PA has many admirable qualities for next to skin, including anti-odor, quick dry and outstanding stretch and recovery to adapt to the body shape. Fabric, with a perfect fit for body contouring products including leggings, underwear and light support shapewear.”

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, announces the three finalists competing for the 2024 Hygienix Innovation Award™. Harper Hygienics, Hello Hazel, and HIRO Technologies will present their absorbent hygiene products at Hygienix™, taking place November 18-21 at The Renaissance Nashville Hotel, Nashville, Tennessee.

• Harper Hygienics S.A.: Cleanic Naturals Hemp – Sanitary Pads (Day & Night), Pantyliners
  Cleanic Naturals Hemp by Harper Hygienics S.A. is an innovative femcare line, crafted with sero™ regenerative hemp fibers produced by Bast Fibre Technologies and processed on our unique Hemplace™ technology platform. These sanitary pads and pantyliners are designed for women’s comfort throughout their cycle. Hemp’s antibacterial and hypoallergenic properties make it a natural solution for sensitive skin, ensuring all-day safety and comfort. Plus, sero™ hemp fibers are 100% natural, offering an eco-conscious approach to personal care.
• Hello Hazel, Inc.: Hazel High & Dry Briefs
  Hazel’s High & Dry Briefs – the first and only disposable briefs for leaks designed to look, fit, and feel like real underwear. Engineered with a novel, ultra-thin, highly absorbent core seamlessly integrated beneath a unique elasticated cover that moves naturally with her body, offering unparalleled comfort, discretion, and reliable protection. Purposefully developed to reduce stigma and address both physical and emotional needs, the Briefs successfully attracted many new consumers who previously opted out of the category.
• HIRO Technologies, Inc.: World’s First MycoDigestable™ Diapers
  Introducing the world’s first MycoDigestible™ diapers, powered by HIRO’s frontier fungal technology. HIRO’s MycoDigestible™ solution introduces plastic-eating mushrooms in a safe, user-friendly way that seamlessly integrates into everyday life. The HIRO Diaper combines exceptional absorbency with natural materials like unbleached TruCotton™ and Kraft softwood fluff pulp, offering 12-hour protection while being gentle on both baby and planet.

The 2024 winner will be revealed on Thursday, November 21st at 11:00 am.

The 2023 Hygienix Innovation Award went to Sequel Spiral™ Tampon, which features a unique spiral design engineered for enhanced fluid absorption and leak prevention. This breakthrough product received FDA clearance as a medical device and is available online and in a growing number of retail outlets.

Together with the Association of the German Furniture Industry (VDM) and the German Furniture and Kitchen Retailers Association (BVDM), Koelnmesse has decided to skip the imm cologne's January 2025 edition. This joint decision was taken following intense discussions and reflects the challenging conditions the furniture industry is currently facing, particularly in Germany. It gives everyone involved the chance to collaborate with Koelnmesse on the development of a new, more viable future trade fair format.

It was taken primarily due to the fact that the German furniture manufacturers are generally in troubled waters, as there is a scarce domestic demand for furniture, and the industry is therefore, understandably, keeping a close eye on its spending.

According to the latest VDM industry figures, the entire market recorded a significant fall in turnover in 2023, as well as in the first six months of 2024. It dropped by 9.7 percent for all furniture, and even by 11.2 percent for upholstered furniture. The employee and company numbers are also going down.

"We're extremely sorry to be skipping the imm cologne, but ultimately, this is a necessary, and the right step," says VDM president Leo Lübke. "Like many other industries, the furniture market has also changed considerably over the past few years - and along with this the demand for trade fairs. Unfortunately, the industry's current situation is forcing many companies to change course. As an industry, we are working intensely with Koelnmesse on the development of new concepts tailor-made specifically for the individual furniture segments. As Europe's largest furniture nation, we need our central industry shows, and believe in the Cologne venue's furniture expertise."

BVDM president Markus Meyer agrees: "I understand the decision to skip next January's trade fair, and I'm sorry that the industry did not lend better support to its leading international trade fair. The imm cologne has been an important meeting place for the industry for decades. By taking a break next year, we will not only lose a central platform for innovation and exchange, but also an important stage for serving the international market. All of the industry's stakeholders are now urgently tasked with getting together and finding joint solutions. More than ever before, we must now concentrate on securing and strengthening our position. The industry needs a strong platform like the imm cologne in order to restructure itself in a way that ensures its future viability."

The chairman of the Koelnmesse management board is also looking towards the future: "Pausing the imm cologne at this point in time is a logical decision, in view of the situation the industry currently finds itself in," says Gerald Böse. "It was an extremely difficult decision to make, but it was also unavoidable in order to show our international customers some consideration. Due to its January date, the imm cologne did not take place three years in a row during the pandemic. This lack of continuity, coupled with the current economic environment, makes it impossible for us as event organisers to guarantee an attractive range of exhibitors for the retailers in Cologne in January 2025. We still intend to offer the furniture industry an international stage in Germany in future. We are already jointly developing very promising concepts that meet the changed requirements of all stakeholders as best as can be. Koelnmesse is the world's number one in interiors, as impressively proven by the ORGATEC, the interzum and the spoga+gafa. We must now steer our flagship back on course, together with the furniture industry!"

About 50 Italian companies will exhibit at ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024, taking place from October 14 to 18 in Shanghai. With an area of around 1,400 square meters, Italy ranks among the top exhibiting Countries, as in previous editions. 29 Italian exhibitors will show their innovations within the National Sector Groups, organized by ACIMIT (Association of Italian Textile Machinery Manufacturers) and Italian Trade Agency.

ITMA ASIA + CITME show has always been the main showcase for textile machinery manufacturers in Asia, that absorbs over 50% of global exports. Moreover, China is the world’s largest market in the sector (the value of imported textile machinery in 2023 was around 2.6 billion euro).

For Italian manufacturers as well, the Chinese market is the top foreign destination. In 2023, Italian sales to China amounted to 222 million euro. In the first six months of this year, exports to China increased by 38%, while the performance of total Italian exports declined slightly in the same period.

“We hope that the recovery of the Chinese market, observed in this first half of the year, may be an early indication of a more general upturn in global demand for machinery,” says ACIMIT President Marco Salvadè. Over the past few years, demand from Chinese companies has turned to technologies that combine savings in production costs and environmental friendliness, as also demanded by brands and end consumers. “Today, Italian manufacturers can offer highly customized solutions that are particularly suited to making textile production more sustainable,” confirms Salvadè. “The Chinese textile machinery market is rapidly evolving, and the level of innovation in the technology requested has risen due to the growing international competition that even Chinese companies face. In Shanghai, Italian manufacturers will display their latest innovations, essential for making textile production more efficient and sustainable.”

With 42 exhibiting member companies, ITMA ASIA + CITME 2024 is once again marked by a strong presence of VDMA companies. They cover nearly all different machinery chapters with a focus on spinning and man-made fibers, nonwovens, weaving, braiding, knitting & warp knitting, finishing & dyeing as well as technologies for textile recycling and processing of recycled material.
In total, the German participation at the fair is the largest from outside China.

The VDMA team in Shanghai is staffed again with colleagues from the VDMA headquarters in Germany as well as from VDMA China. With these joined forces, the team is well prepared to support the exhibiting member companies on site.

Dr. Harald Weber, Managing Director VDMA Textile Machinery Association, summarised: “Although facing a difficult market situation, this year’s ITMA ASIA is an essential showcase for the member companies of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association. There is definitely no shortage of chances and opportunities in China and other Asian markets. The exhibiting members will demonstrate their smart technologies that can pave the way to a green textile production and are looking forward to welcoming numerous visitors from various countries to their booths in Shanghai.”

China is aiming at a green and low CO₂ development of its textile industry. At a press conference on the first day of ITMA ASIA + CITME, Georg Stausberg, member of the board of VDMA Textile Machinery and CEO of the Oerlikon Polymer Processing Solutions Division said: “Topics, such as energy efficiency and the careful use of resources have become increasingly important for Asian customers in recent years, not least due to stricter legal framework conditions. VDMA members and their technologies are the right partners on the road to a greener and low CO₂ textile production.”
 
Export performance
Already in 2023, the global textile machinery exports decreased by 18.6 % compared to 2022. This was a challenge all major textile machinery producing countries had to face. However, the German exports remained relatively strong and only declined by 3.4 % in 2023. 2024 did not see a change in the global textile industry and thus the German exports have now also dropped significantly. Between January and July 2024, German exports of textile machinery and accessories summed up to 1.2 billion € (2023: 1.6 billion €). The shipping to almost all major markets decreased between January and July: China: 242 million € (2023: 384 million €), Turkey: 140 million € (2023: 180 million €), USA: 118 million € (2023: 152 million €), India: 100 million € (2023: 153 million €).

Sales opportunities in Asia
An economic survey of VDMA in September, to which 20 textile machinery companies replied, reflects the global challenging situation. Around 36 % assessed their current business situation as satisfactory, 54 % said it was bad. Only very few companies expect the global situation to improve in the next six months.

However, looking at the sales opportunities by regions/countries in Asia, most of the responding companies expect a better business situation in the Asian markets except China in six months. The business situation is expected to be on a satisfactory level then. With regard to this, a presence at ITMA ASIA in Shanghai and next year in Singapore is important for VDMA members to continuously show their innovations and to keep contact with the customers in Asia.

Over the course of one month, from the beginning of January until mid-February 2025, SEEK will play at a new 5-floor location in Berlin (Oranienstrasse), becoming a home to brands, showrooms, agencies, the Conscious Club, marketing-driven events and showcases as well as the return of the infamous Designer Sale.

New space
Five floors of the historic building from 1900, offer the ideal setting of SEEK's new modular system and return to its simple, clean and reduced set up. Every floor is about 600 sqm big, and offers high ceilings, large window facades and therefore lots of daylight as well as wide, open spaces to present the latest products and smaller rooms as a retreat or ideal for private order appointments.
 
The new location, especially with its various floors, offers brands and agencies the opportunity to curate and target specific audiences: whether it's by appointment only, engaging with press and content creators, attracting potential new customers, like-minded individuals, or end-consumers.

New concept
SEEK and the team behind the Berlin fashion event puts its 15 years of experience in use and presents a completely new, independent, innovative, agile, solution-focused and adaptable, month-long concept. According to the motto "the customer is always right", SEEK replies and reacts to the markets' and the exhibitors' needs: concentrated and coherent brand scenarios, individually bookable time periods and customised conditions for various needs and objectives.
 
"It's not the right time for a one-size-fits-all approach. The needs, strategies, objectives and timelines of our exhibitors and visitors are more diverse than ever been before. Two set-in-stone days and one big location hosting them all are just not the Zeitgeist anymore. Brands and agencies get together and create smaller, more intimate showroom concepts. The Conscious Club is a close-knit community that thrives from exchange, collaboration and togetherness. Classic calendars as well as designs of mens- and womenswear become blurred. Outdoor and function wear is part of not just streetwear culture any more. We need to react to these trends and offer modular options and dates" says Elli Moreno, SEEK
 
New timescale
The new concept is consciously taking a step back from the traditional trade show calendar and fashion week schedule. This upcoming Autumn/Winter 2025/26 season is the tightest and busiest yet - the perfect starting point to launch SEEK's new concept. The Berlin based fashion and lifestyle event organisers open the doors beginning of January 2025, before the first European trade show takes place, as well as over the course of Berlin Fashion Week, which will take place at the beginning of February.
 
In close conversations with those responsible, SEEK will develop and present coherent concepts, brand scenarios and agencies' showrooms at various appropriate and reasonable times. SEEK, as well as its traditional role as an organiser, will now - more than ever - act as a landlord, communicator, consultant and most importantly: host.
 
"With the new concept we're acting on and expressing what everyone's thinking! The timelines, fashion weeks as well as trade shows and events in Europe are more and more overlapping. We have to stop thinking in black and white, outdated calendars and segments, and dictating when brands and agencies have to write orders and close the books. Flexibility, independence, the very honest, loyal relationships with our exhibitors and visitors and down-to-earthness are our absolute USPs, which we will now benefit from!" Marie-Luise Ahlers, SEEK

The Cleanzone, the trade fair for cleanroom and purity technology, hygiene and contamination control, took place in Frankfurt am Main on September 25 and 26, 2024. The Cleanzone Award is presented at the trade fair to recognize groundbreaking advances in innovation, automation, sustainability and efficiency in the field of cleanroom technology. This year, the award went to the German Institutes of Textile and Fiber Research Denkendorf (DITF) and the Dastex Group GmbH for the development of a test method for cleanroom garments - the ReBa².

With the Realistic Bacterial Barrier (ReBa²) test method, the DITF offer a new biological method for determining the bacterial penetration for cleanroom garment textiles. Particularly in the manufacturing of sterile pharmaceuticals, bacteria, skin flakes and fiber particles that can originate from persons and their clothing pose a risk to the products manufactured in the cleanroom. Special cleanroom garments have the task of minimizing this risk. To assess the barrier function, the “bacterial penetration” is determined, among other properties. This provides information on how many bacteria from the human skin flora pass through the cleanroom garments to the outside when worn.

The ReBa² test method largely reproduces the situation when wearing cleanroom garments and thus enables a meaningful determination of the bacterial penetration. It is also possible to consider numerous test scenarios. In addition to the influence of intermediate garments worn under the cleanroom garments, the sweating process or the pre-wetting of the cleanroom garments by liquid splashes in the manufacturing process or by disinfectants can also be tested. The method was developed at the DITF in collaboration with the Dastex Group GmbH.

At this year's CINTE Techtextil fair in Shanghai, DILO received the innovation award for its intensive needling technology “MicroPunch”. Recent developments in energy costs, particularly for electricity and gas, and given the increasing shortage of water resources, have led to a shift in thinking over the past few years. Together with economic efficiency, the evaluation of the environmental impact of production has become increasingly important.

For DILO, this meant focusing on needling technology for the fine and lightweight nonwoven sector over the last years. The individual elements of the intensive needling technology underwent a complete revision. It became clear that the high production rates could only be achieved using the two-dimensional kinematics of the needle beam of "HyperPunch" or "CycloPunch." The necessary high feed rates of around 50 mm per stroke, coupled with the highest stitching densities to achieve good abrasion resistance, led to a need of a significant increase of the number of needles and needle density—almost doubling from approximately 20,000 needles/meter/board to around 45,000 needles/meter/board. It also became obvious that ensuring a high efficiency rate in production also required the careful attention to a quick assembly of the needle boards with needle modules. A completely new approach was needed in the design and construction of the needle boards to enable rapid module exchange and achieve a very high mechanical precision.

Previously, needling technology was primarily used for a surface weight range starting at 100 g/m² up to several kilograms per m². The expansion into the range below 100 g/m², and potentially down to 30 g/m², now completes the applicability of needling technology. The intensive needling technology "MicroPunch" opens up an economical field for a wide variety of lightweight nonwoven fabrics that can be produced by a pure mechanical processes. The product characteristics achieved, such as abrasion resistance, are comparable to those of hydroentangeld nonwovens. Needled fabrics tend to have more volume and more stretch while offering similar tensile strength values. These special quality characteristics are particularly interesting for applications in hygiene, medicine, cosmetics, and for technical products.

With this new development, the energy required to produce lightweight nonwoven fabrics has been reduced up to approximately 75% compared to other bonding technologies of this segment.

Staying true to its four-year cycle, drupa will be held again in May 2028, this time as a nine-day event. As the world’s leading platform for printing technology, the trade fair is adjusting to the changing needs and expectations of exhibitors and visitors and reflecting the continued transformation of the industry. The conceptual direction, new key visual and future claim of drupa 2028 will be presented to the industry in 2025.

“drupa 2024 was more international than ever, and the positive atmosphere throughout the halls reflected our industry’s determination to drive profound change in order to make the printing and packaging industry more sustainable through automation, artificial intelligence and strategic partnerships. And these are exactly the kind of important goals that will continue to require a reliable platform such as drupa in future. What was also apparent, however, was that, as a B2B trade fair with a very high proportion of decision-makers from all over the world, the length of stays at drupa has become shorter. That’s why we want to facilitate trade fair visits with maximum efficiency”, Wolfram N. Diener, Chairman and CEO of Messe Düsseldorf, explains the decision. At this year’s drupa, 76 percent of visitors were part of top and middle management. “We believe that this adjustment is also confirmed by the experience we have gathered at our leading global trade fairs in the fields of machinery, plants and equipment, interpack and K, that address comparable customer profiles and do very well with a similar duration.”

The presentation of cutting-edge technology and machines in operation remains a USP of drupa. The new rules for trade fair duration will continue to allow exhibitors to effectively present and stage wide-ranging product portfolios, machines and workflows as well as an impressive stage programme.