From the Sector

Source Fashion, Europe’s leading responsible sourcing show running from 18th – 20th February 2025 at Olympia London, has announced a sneak preview of seminars and speakers including All Saints founder Stuart Trevor, Nobody’s Child founder Andrew Xeni, Safia Minney MBE, and the debut of Source Debates.

Debuting at the February show, Source Debates will tackle some of the most pressing and provocative topics in sustainable fashion. This space invites attendees to engage in open dialogue together - alongside industry experts, other fashion brands and retailers, and sustainability and sourcing professionals. The space will challenge the status quo and explore actionable solutions to the industry’s toughest issues.

Designed to be an interactive forum, Source Debates provides a platform for honest discussion, to connect with peers and debate the future of sustainable fashion. It’s a unique opportunity to learn and uncover fresh perspectives on what meaningful change could look like. Expect to hear from speakers including Simon Platts, Co-Founder of Recomme, social entrepreneur Safia Minney MBE, Mike Coates from the CMA, fashion futurist Geraldine Wharry and many more to be confirmed, on topics including:

• Back to the future – how do we slow down consumption and produce less?  
• The language of sustainability
• Overcoming the fear of sustainability
• Taking the lead: Collaboration in the absence of legislative change
• Speculative design thinking - preparing for the future of fashion retail
• Breaking the cycle - driving systemic change in fashion supply chains

Visitors will also be invited to attend three full days of seminars on the Source Catwalk Stage, covering a wide range of subject matters, including conversations around circularity and sustainability, advice on the latest legislations and certifications, and discussions with some of the biggest names in the industry.

Source Fashion, Europe’s leading responsible sourcing show, announced the inclusion of an Egyptian Pavilion at its upcoming event, taking place from 18th – 20th February 2025 at Olympia London. With over 20 Egyptian companies confirmed to participate, this showcase highlights the exceptional quality, craftsmanship, and sustainability practices of Egyptian manufacturers, offering UK and European buyers an unparalleled opportunity to source responsibly.

The Egyptian Pavilion aims to highlight the advantages of working with Egyptian manufacturers, including high-quality craftsmanship and decades of expertise in textiles, tailoring, and garment production. With competitive operational costs without compromising quality, and reduced lead times with faster shipping times to Europe, Egyptian manufacturers are a cost-effective sourcing alternative.

Improved ethical standards mean many Egyptian factories adhere to international labour and sustainability standards such as BSCI, WRAP, and OEKO-TEX certifications, while favourable trade agreements and reduced tariffs from trade pacts with Europe (EU-Egypt Association Agreement), Africa (COMESA), and the Middle East, make Egyptian-sourced goods more affordable and competitive in global markets.

Suzanne Ellingham, Event Director of Source Fashion says, “Egypt is the latest hotspot for sourcing due to proximity and price factors. We are delighted to bring together a pavilion of Egyptian manufacturers that offer a unique blend of tradition, innovation, and sustainability to the table. The Egyptian Pavilion is a testament to Source Fashion’s commitment to connecting buyers with responsibly audited suppliers from regions that are setting the standard for the future of sourcing.”

Source Fashion, Europe’s leading responsible sourcing show, has announced an inspiring line-up of keynote speakers for its upcoming event, running from 18th to 20th February 2025 at Olympia London. On Wednesday 19th February, a full day of thought-provoking sessions will be headlined by industry visionaries including All Saints Founder Stuart Trevor, award-winning social entrepreneur Safia Minney MBE, and Andrew Xeni, Founder of Nobody’s Child.
 
The sessions will explore critical themes shaping the future of fashion, from sustainability to circularity and transparency, aiming to equip visitors with actionable insights to transform their brands and business practices.
 
Session Highlights:

• The Urgency of Transparency
  • Speaker: Andrew Xeni, Founder, Nobody’s Child, Fabacus and Soreto
  • Time: 11:00 AM
  • Synopsis: As transparency becomes the cornerstone of sustainability, Andrew Xeni will discuss how brands can lead the charge in accountability and ethical operations. From unveiling supply chain practices to empowering consumers, this session highlights the role of transparency in building trust and driving meaningful change in the fashion industry.
•  A Clothing Company That Doesn’t Produce Clothes
  • Speaker: Stuart Trevor, Founder, All Saints & Stuart Trevor
  • Time: 1:30 PM
  • Synopsis: In a groundbreaking fireside chat, Stuart Trevor will showcase how his company is pioneering circularity by transforming pre-owned clothes into desirable fashion pieces. By rethinking the traditional industry model, Trevor will illustrate the potential of upcycling to combat waste and redefine sustainable style.
• Ecosystem Thinking in Fashion: Redesigning for Regeneration
  • Speaker: Safia Minney MBE
  • Time: 2:10 PM
  • Synopsis: In a dynamic panel discussion, Safia Minney will explore strategies to adopt circular and regenerative models, scale these practices, and foster collaborative supply chain solutions. Featuring contributions from experts across industries, this session is set to empower visitors with practical tools for transformative change.

 The keynote sessions will be complemented by speakers from industry-leading organisations such as John Lewis, Vivo Footwear, Pepsi Co, Kingfisher, and environmental NGO WRAP. The full programme will be revealed in the coming weeks.
 
Join the Conversation
Source Fashion 2025 invites fashion professionals, sustainability advocates, and industry leaders to connect, learn, and lead the transformation of the fashion industry.
 
As Europe’s leading responsible sourcing show, Source Fashion brings together a global community of brands, suppliers, and thought leaders to shape the future of ethical and sustainable fashion. Through cutting-edge events, expert-led sessions, and innovative showcases, Source Fashion champions transparency, circularity, and collaboration in the industry.

About Stuart Trevor
In 1983, Stuart Trevor was a finalist in the Paul Smith/Mont Blanc competition and in 1985 he won designer of the year at The Smirnoff Fashion awards “Menswear Day”. Aged 19 he became the first designer and main buyer for REISS. At 28 he founded All Saints and many of the clothes that continue to feature every week in the top 10 bestseller list of the high-street brand today, were designed by Trevor himself over 20 years ago.
 
About Safia Minney
Safia Minney, MBE, FRSA, is an award-winning social entrepreneur, consultant and advisor. Safia is recognised by the World Economic Forum as an Outstanding Social Entrepreneur and is a leading influencer and international speaker on sustainable fashion, sustainable supply chains, ethical business and climate action.
 
Safia founded REAL Sustainability CIC in 2019, to promote awareness and action for sustainable living and leadership. In 2022 REAL launched Fashion Declares – a bottom-up, industry wide movement to promote rapid action to redesign the fashion industry to operate within planetary boundaries.
 
About Andrew Xeni
Andrew Xeni is a visionary technology and retail entrepreneur. After building successful fashion manufacturing business suppling leading UK high street brands, Xeni went on to create eco-conscious 2023 Drapers Retailer of the Year (<£100m), Nobody’s Child, of which Marks and Spencer is a strategic investor and shareholder.
Merging both retail and technology, Xeni also founded award-winning retail tech companies Fabacus and Soreto.
 
As CEO of Fabacus, a DaaS (Data-as-a-Service) technology platform for revolutionising the licencing and retail industries, Xeni has established partnerships with a number of leading businesses within the sectors, including, Fanatics, UFC, Epic Games, Ubisoft and IMG, part of Endeavour.
 
This year, seeing the growing consumer demand for sustainably, Xeni pioneered the UK-first Digital Product Passport in a collaboration with between Fabacus and Nobody’s Child, in partnership with Coinbase.
 
Xeni is backed by a number of leading financial institutions, including iNovia Partners, led by former Google CFO, Patrick Pichette, as well as New Look founder, Tom Singh. In addition to managing a diverse portfolio of businesses, and sitting as Chairman for Nobody’s Child and Soreto, Xeni is an active angel investor.

Unveiled at the forthcoming Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris trade fair, from 10 to 12 February at the Paris-Le-Bourget Exhibition Centre, the trend book for the Spring-Summer 2026 season opens up new creative worlds where emotion attempts to regain the upper hand over pure materials.

Entitled Néocène, the new forward-looking journey proposed by Louis Gérin and Grégory Lamaud, the artistic directors of Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris, explores a world undergoing profound change. Conceived against a backdrop of severe economic, social and environmental tensions, this document is the result of cross-referencing and analysing emerging signals detected and interpreted by a panel of stylists, designers, graphic artists, authors and scenographers. In four major themes, it sets out an aesthetic framework to help fashion designers and buyers develop their spring-summer 2026 collections.

1 wardrobe, 4 universes
A new era without humans, the Néocène is a clean slate, an indefinable horizon that obeys only the laws of physics. New shapes, new colours: each theme in this trend book reflects a creative universe organised around specific materials and 3 “star colours” in 6 intermediate shades. Presented in the introduction, these colours provide a glimpse of the palette for the collections to come.

#1 Quantum.
In this universe of atoms, everything is just energy, chance and freedom. This first proposal plunges back into the heart of substance with fluid, heated and incandescent materials, on the edge of solid and liquid. The soft textures and expanded forms are particularly at home here, and express themselves in a radiant, sunny colour system: spicy flavours, tones of tan and caramel are very present.

#2 Gravity.
“The structure of the universe [...] An invisible interdependence.” This theme plays on the multiple meanings of gravity: a heaviness that is both physical and emotional. Mineral and sandy materials, repetitive or sequential geometrical patterns, all find their place here, as do aqueous aspects and biomimetic and animal-inspired forms. The colour palette here is clearly diaphanous and serious, natural and diffuse.

#3 Relativity.
This proposition should be seen as a deepening of the previous theme, until the propositions are reversed: “Ugly has become beautiful [...] Stillness accelerates”. A world of oxymorons in which graphic motifs express a mummified vegetal world, supported by lines shaped like imprints, draped textures, embroideries intended as traces of an anterior world. The colours are those of ash, tattoo ink, animal... The blues and mauves are dark and intense.

#4 Magnetism.
In stark contrast to the other universes, this axis exalts order and renewal, and brings lightness, even fragility, to the creative approach. Transparency is assertive, as are floral motifs and curved, ample and comfortable lines. The colour palette is in tune with the emotion of the theme: marshmallows, sweet flavours, peach and blush pink are at the heart of the theme.

A new layout to maximize synergies
The return of the Texworld Apparel Sourcing Paris shows to Halls 2, 3 and 4 of the Paris-Le-Bourget Exhibition Centre is accompanied by an exciting new space organisation to make the buying experience even more efficient and inspiring. At the heart of hall 2, the Trends Forum will captivate visitor with its four dynamic themes, and will also house all key services, including the Agora for engaging conferences and lively round-table discussions, as well as inviting restaurants. In terms of products and services, some Texworld and Apparel Sourcing sectors have been brought together to promote synergies, with coherent areas devoted to women's clothing (Hall 4) and outdoor-sportswear-casualwear (Hall 3). This layout not only makes the Apparel Sourcing offering easier to navigate but also optimises the entire sourcing process, providing a more streamlined and productive experience.

The upcoming conference on 12-13 March 2025 in Cologne, Germany, will pave pathways to a sustainable textile industry.

Over the past few weeks, the Conference Advisory Board, and the experts from the nova-Institute, have thoroughly reviewed and evaluated over 40 submitted abstracts. The selected external experts bring new insights and perspectives from the pulp, fibre and further developing industries, promising to spark and deepen discussions at the event. Their expertise across the entire fibre value chain will enrich the topics covered and ensure a dynamic and insightful exchange of ideas. The presentations will provide a platform for the discussion at the conference after each session, and the Advisory Board members will foster a lively debate to drive innovation industry-wide.

Biosynthetics on the rise
Besides cellulose fibres, bio-based polymer fibres ("biosynthetics") are an excellent option to reduce fossil fibres in textiles. Biosynthetics offer a powerful alternative to traditional synthetic fibres, bringing both performance and technical properties that make them drop-in replacements. Derived wholly or partially from natural, renewable sources like lactic acids, sugar beet, sugarcane or wood, biosynthetics represent a bio-based option compared to fossil-based counterparts. In a special session “Biosynthetics - Replacing Traditional Synthetic Fibres”, experts will explore the latest advances, challenges and opportunities in the field. Discussing innovative approaches like biosynthetics is essential to drive sustainable transformation within the fashion and textile industries.

Fibre-to-Fibre Recycling: A Path to a Sustainable Textile Industry
The textile industry is at a crucial crossroad. The need for sustainable solutions to meet the EU's ambitious climate change targets is becoming increasingly urgent. Fibre-to-fibre recycling, which transforms discarded textiles into new, virgin fibres, holds great promise for reducing waste and resource consumption and helps to close the loop in textile production. While Europe has made progress in this area, challenges remain – in particular the management of mixed fibre textiles and the scaling up of recycling technologies. As new approaches are needed to tackle climate change, one session of the conference will focus on fibre-to-fibre recycling from textiles, exploring the latest innovations and technological advances, as well as the opportunities and barriers that need to be addressed to move the industry towards a circular, sustainable future.

Fibre Microplastic Formation versus Marine Biodegradability
The environmental impact of textiles extends far beyond landfill, with microplastics from synthetic fibres becoming a growing concern in marine ecosystems. A session at the conference will focus on the complex relationship between microplastic formation and marine biodegradability. While synthetic fibres shed microplastics during washing, these tiny particles, known as microfibres accumulate in the oceans and pose a serious threat to marine life. This session will explore the factors that influence fibre degradation in the marine environment and examine the potential of biodegradable fibres to reduce long-term pollution. Leading research institutes will discuss the challenges of balancing the prevention of microplastics with the development of fibres that can degrade naturally in marine ecosystems, and provide insights into innovative solutions that could help mitigate this pressing environmental issue.

Innovation Award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025”
The nova-Institute, together with GIG Karasek, is looking for the best fibre innovations of the year. Applicants from the area of cellulose fibres as well as biosynthetics are welcome to submit their innovations. Technologie providers, research institutes or producers can apply until 30 November 2024. The innovation award “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025” is sponsored by GIG Karasek.

Apply for the “Cellulose Fibre Innovation of the Year 2025” award: cellulose-fibres.eu/award-application

Call for Posters
The poster exhibition is a highly anticipated scientific event at the conference, especially for early career scientists. Poster submission is open until 31 January 2025.

ALLIED Feather + Down (AF+D), a leader in high performance, ethically sourced, and recycled down, announced that their new 1000 Fill Power ExpeDRY down jacket is a 2024 ISPO Award winner.

Created in partnership with Japanese-based textile trading company MN Inter-Fashion, the jacket is made from an extremely rare, traceable 1000 fill power down treated with ALLIED's industry-first ExpeDRY water-resistant, chemical-free technology that more effectively speeds drying via FUZE® Technology’s proprietary gold microparticle treatment. The fabric by Pertex, one of the lightest textiles available, makes up the shell and liner.

With the exceptional lightness of the 1000-fill power down and extremely light weight 5d Pertex fabric, AF+D has succeeded in creating a parka that feels like wearing a cloud. The ExpeDRY technology, which is quickly replacing other water resistant treatments as the industry standard for extreme performance in down insulation, ensures this jacket will remain lofty in any urban or mountain setting, no matter the conditions.

The award-winning 1000 Fill Power jacket joins a growing line of ALLIED apparel that is specifically designed with a look to the future, where the lines between fashion and performance outerwear continue to blur. The complete ALLIED collection is currently available for sale in Japan and Europe. 

The Dornbirn GFC invites researchers, experts, manufacturers, and practitioners to submit papers for the 64th congress in September 2025, providing a platform for presenting innovations shaping the fiber and textile industries' future.

Submissions on the following topics are welcome:

Work- & Protective Wear & Defense

• Smart textiles providing real-time data for first responders
  (e.g., firefighters, soldiers, police, industrial workers)
• Flame-resistant fabrics for multi-risk environments, combining protection with flexibility and comfort
• Sustainability in production, eco-friendly materials, and recycling innovations for workwear and protective apparel

Carbon Stewardship: Harnessing Biomass & Recycling & Capture for a Sustainable Future

• Use of sustainable biomass in textile production
• Innovations in post-consumer textile recycling and chemical recycling methods
• Carbon capture technologies integrated across the value chain

Fiber Innovations: From Production to Application

• Biopolymer & Natural Fibers
• Textile Processing & Application
• Nonwoven Processing & Application

Cross-Industry Session

• Energy Transition
• Pulp & Paper & Packaging Innovation

Texcare International celebrated its comeback from 6 to 9 November with an exceptionally high level of international participation and top marks from the participants. 305 companies from 32 countries presented their innovations in automation and energy efficiency.

Over four days, the leading international trade fair for textile care presented innovations for laundries, dry cleaners and textile service companies with great success: 98 per cent of trade visitors were satisfied to extremely satisfied with how they achieved their goals for the trade fair; 52 per cent expect an improved industry economy. After eight years without Texcare due to the pandemic, the desire among exhibitors to exchange ideas and present innovations was palpable.

Industry celebrates its future potential
The industry is meeting the challenges of labour shortage and rising energy prices with a significant surge in innovation. The solutions are available, as demonstrated by the exhibitors with their machines, technologies and expertise. The leap towards robotisation was clearly visible at the stands. The circular economy was also in focus: many innovations showed how machine builders and textile manufacturers are working together to advance sustainability. Texcare provided the right impulse for companies in the textile care industry at the right time, enabling them to secure their successful market position by investing.

The partner industry associations of Texcare also draw a positive conclusion. Elgar Straub, CEO of VDMA Textile Care, Fabric and Leather Technologies, emphasises: “Expectations for Texcare International were very high after eight years without a trade fair, but they were even exceeded. I have rarely experienced such a good atmosphere at trade fairs in recent years. Furthermore, Texcare International was extremely well prepared by Messe Frankfurt, but the exhibitors also presented themselves to their global customers with exceptionally beautiful and informative stands. As expected, the topics that are driving the industry were hygiene, automation, digitalisation, logistics and AI. But my highlight of this fair was the truly excellent mood among visitors and exhibitors and the positive outlook for the future of textile care. Texcare International this year was simply a pleasure.”

Andreas Schumacher, General Manager of the German Textile Care Association, summarises: “There was a sense of a fresh start. You could feel that after eight long years, the exhibitors were eager to show their products and developments, and the visitors were excited about innovations. In particular, the topics of automation and digital solutions, as well as robotics, were the subject of much discussion, as many companies are facing a shortage of skilled workers. After the pandemic and the energy crisis, the discussions were once again characterised by a willingness to invest and a sense of optimism. Energy costs and corresponding opportunities for saving energy and other resources were also a key topic. Last but not least, companies in the industry are working to further improve their circular business models and to adapt to the upcoming regulations for the recycling of textiles.”

EDANA, the global association for the nonwovens and related industries, concluded its annual Sustainability Forum at the KBR Royal Library of Belgium in Brussels. This year's forum, themed “Building a Sustainable Future Together,” featured a series of keynote addresses, panel discussions, and collaborative sessions focused on environmental responsibility, corporate social responsibility, and circular economy innovations within the nonwovens sector. With an agenda that bridged policy and practice, the Forum highlighted the latest advancements and strategies aimed at tackling climate change, reducing waste, and enhancing sustainability practices.

Keynote Highlights
The forum featured two keynote speakers: Ana Rovzar, Founder of Polygon AR, opened the Forum with a keynote on the accelerating transition to clean energy. In her speech, she discussed the shift from conventional energy investments to renewables, noting a 50% growth in renewables in 2023 alone. “It is accelerating much faster than people think” she remarked, emphasizing that “real progress requires a united front from governments, businesses, and communities to remove regulatory and technological barriers”.

In another keynote, sustainability expert Mike Barry, formerly of Marks & Spencer, stressed the importance of aligning corporate strategy with sustainability. “Citizens see climate change as a top priority, and companies must act boldly to reduce emissions, especially Scope 3”, he said. “Sustainability is now a vital part of brand identity, and consumers expect more transparency and commitment than ever”.

Innovative Industry Perspectives and EU Policy Impacts
Brieuc Lits, Public Affairs Director at EDANA, examined the potential effects of the EU Green Deal on the nonwovens industry. “The EU’s shift towards balancing sustainability with competitiveness will shape not only policy but the very framework within which we operate”, he noted, emphasizing that the sector must adapt to stay competitive and aligned with regulatory expectations.

Lastly, Paolo Haeusermann, Senior Brand Director and Europe Sustainability Leader at Procter & Gamble, shared insights on advancing sustainability in absorbent hygiene products and emphasized the importance of these items. “We are talking about essential products in people’s lives”, he remarked.

Corporate and Product Sustainability: A Deep Dive
Several industry leaders shared insights on integrating sustainability at every level of business. Carsten Ruff from Nitto Advanced Film Solutions discussed the challenges and strategies of embedding sustainability in corporate culture, particularly in a multinational setting. “Sustainability is not a contradiction to industrial applications; it’s a powerful driver of innovation”, he observed.

Martijn Gipmans from Sphera Solutions highlighted the business value of transparency and life-cycle assessments (LCA). “LCA and transparent ESG reporting can catalyse both business growth and environmental progress”, he explained, stressing the importance of integrated sustainability assessments to reduce the carbon footprint of entire product portfolios.

Christophe Morel-Fourrier, Sustainability Leader for Hygiene, Packaging, and Converting Adhesives at Bostik, introduced the Archimedes tool as a strategic asset for Portfolio Sustainability Assessment. “Archimedes allows us to make transparent, informed decisions that align with our long-term sustainability goals”, he explained. He highlighted that this tool helps companies evaluate the sustainability of their product portfolios, empowering them to make impactful choices that support environmental goals.

The Path Forward: Advancing Circularity and Green Innovation
One of the most discussed topics was the industry's transition toward a circular economy. Albert Hammerschmied from Freudenberg Performance Materials highlighted the importance of post-industrial waste in achieving circularity, particularly in the automotive sector. “The potential for nonwovens in the automotive circular economy is vast, but requires industry-wide collaboration”, he commented.

In a session addressing the future of sustainable practices in building insulation, Alexandre Butté of ANDRITZ Laroche emphasized the importance of sustainable materials and collaboration among stakeholders. “The building industry faces unique sustainability challenges, but with innovation and eco-friendly materials, we can bridge the gap between goals and achievable practices”, he said.

Building a Sustainable Health Sector
Danielle van Horzen, Global Marketing Manager for Hygiene and Healthcare at SABIC, discussed advanced recycling solutions in the healthcare sector. Addressing the challenges of medical waste recycling, she stated, “A significant amount of medical waste is not contaminated, offering us opportunities to create circularity in healthcare.” She pointed to the potential for advanced chemical recycling to enable circular models, helping to tackle the pressing issue of sustainable medical waste management.

The day concluded with a session on the circular potential within healthcare. Kristien Depraetere, Sustainability Coordinator at UZ Leuven, outlined sustainable practices in hospitals, from waste reduction to advanced recycling in medical waste. “Healthcare can lead by example in the transition to circularity, yet we need practical and legislative support to address unique industry challenges”.

Visit to the European Commission
The third day of EDANA’s Sustainability Forum 2024 concluded with an insightful visit to the European Commission, offering attendees a unique opportunity to engage directly with policymakers and gain firsthand insights into the EU's sustainability agenda. Hosted at the Charlemagne Building, discussions centered on pivotal elements of the EU Green Deal, including the establishment of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), the scope and implementation of the Single-Use Plastics Directive (SUPD), and the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation.

Featuring presentations from prominent EU officials like Vicenzo Gente and Werner Bosmans, attendees delved into how these regulations are shaping sustainability strategies across industries. Bridging policy and practice emerged as essential, reinforcing the forum’s dedication to aligning industry actions with current EU regulatory frameworks. The session offered a strong conclusion to the event, reinforcing a shared commitment to a sustainable future in collaboration with EU leaders and regulatory bodies.

Girbau, a leader in comprehensive textile care solutions, is set to unveil its latest innovations at Texcare International 2024, the premier event for the global textile care, cleaning, and cleanroom technologies industry. At Booth C50 in Hall 8.0, Girbau will highlight its expertise and showcase its 360º solutions designed to transform the efficiency, productivity, and sustainability of all types of laundries.

Texcare International 2024 will take place in Frankfurt from November 6th to November 9th, bringing together industry experts and leaders from across the globe.

The booth will feature an interactive space where attendees can explore Girbau’s cutting-edge solutions designed to enhance automation, performance, energy efficiency, and sustainability specifically for industrial laundry applications.

Girbau will present its tailored offerings for self-service and commercial laundries, showcasing its commitment to delivering flexible and innovative solutions for diverse laundry needs.

Visitors will have the opportunity to experience live demonstrations of Girbau’s advanced machinery and participate in expert-led talks. These sessions will provide insights into the latest trends and technologies in the textile care industry, demonstrating Girbau’s unwavering focus on sustainability, innovation, and leadership in the laundry sector.