From the Sector

Swissmem textile machinery industry sector elects president and board: The Swiss Textile Machinery Association is the representative body for Switzerland’s providers of textile equipment, systems and services. Its general assembly on May 8 elected experienced industry leaders as president and board members.

The association’s new president is Davide Maccabruni, CEO of Uster Technologies AG. His role is to lead the board in defining strategies and key focus areas. Assessing the challenges facing the industry, Maccabruni states: “The Swiss textile machinery industry still holds unique strengths that can secure its success well into the future. To achieve this, however, we must focus on aligning our capabilities, working together, and supporting one another.”

A new member of the association board has also been elected. He is Martin Zürcher (Heberlein Technology AG), who joins Beat Meienberger (Benninger AG), André Imhof (Autefa Solutions Switzerland AG), Andreas Conzelmann (Jakob Müller AG) and Ralph von Arx (Retech AG), the latter taking on the role of vice-president.

Davide Maccabruni succeeds Ernesto Maurer, the association’s president for the past ten years. Maurer has been an active board member since 2011, becoming president in 2015. During his service, he has made a significant contribution to strengthening the innovative power and international visibility of the Swiss textile machinery industry.

The Swiss Textile Machinery sector was founded in 1940 and is the longest-established industry sector within Swissmem. It currently has 42 affiliated companies, including manufacturers of machines and components, and service providers, for the textile industry. The association supports its members in fostering innovation initiatives and education. A major focus is on joint market access campaigns, through a successful programme of international symposia. Recent events have been held in Mexico and the US, and another is planned for Morocco later this year.

Rieter has signed a definitive agreement to acquire Barmag from OC Oerlikon for an upfront equity purchase price of CHF 713 million. The acquisition will create a globally leading player in natural and manmade fibers, headquartered in Winterthur, Switzerland, and is highly complementary to Rieter’s short-staple fiber business.

Barmag is a provider of filament spinning systems used for manufacturing manmade fibers, texturing machines, BCF1) systems, staple fiber spinning and nonwovens solutions and – as an engineering services provider – offers solutions along the textile value chain. In the financial year 2024, the company generated sales of CHF 734 million with around 2 600 employees.

Barmag comprises the established product brands Oerlikon Barmag, Oerlikon Neumag and Oerlikon Nonwoven. The main markets for the Barmag product portfolio are China, India, Türkiye and the United States of America. The innovative and technologically advanced products are developed in Remscheid and Neumünster (Germany) as well as Suzhou and Wuxi (China).

As fiber consumption is projected to rise, most of the growth is expected to come from manmade fibers. The increase of natural fibers such as cotton and linen is limited due to natural boundaries. Manmade fibers will help to meet expanding demand for clothing, technical and home textiles. The strategic acquisition of Barmag will transform Rieter into a leading supplier for converting natural and manmade fibers into yarn.

The transaction is fully in-line with Rieter’s strategy and follows previous acquisitions, where Rieter complemented its portfolio in short-staple fiber machinery and expanded its footprint in components and machinery for manmade fiber production. The combined platform allows to leverage the recovery of global filament and short staple fiber spinning markets and to reduce cyclicality due to diversification of end-markets. The acquisition will further enhance Rieter’s position in the important Asia-Pacific region and provide access to Barmag’s filament expertise, which will help to further scale Rieter’s own capabilities and improve digitization solutions and product sustainability.

Rieter’s largest shareholder, Peter Spuhler (c. 33% shareholding) is supportive of the transaction and committed to participating in the rights-issue pro-rata by exercising its subscription rights as well as investing additional capital through the non-pre-emptive capital raise. After the capital increase, PCS Holding AG is expected to retain a shareholding of c. 33%.

Additionally, Rieter’s second-largest shareholder, Martin Haefner (c. 10%), also supports the transaction and has committed to participating pro-rata in the rights-issue by exercising its subscription rights and investing additional capital through the non-pre-emptive capital raise.

Dilo Systems GmbH, a Germany-based manufacturer specializing in complete nonwoven lines, and Kansan Group, a Turkish manufacturer specializing in nonwoven converting lines, end-of-line solutions, and Wetlaid Nonwoven machinery, have signed a strategic partnership agreement to supply custom nonwoven lines. As part of this partnership, comprehensive solutions will be offered by integrating fiber preparation and carding equipment, wetlaid, hydroentanglement and needling lines, as well as converting and end-of-line equipment. Engineering work will be carried out by Dilo Systems GmbH as the main contractor.

The collaboration primarily focuses on specialized nonwoven markets, particularly for hygiene, medical, and technical applications. The production of specialized nonwovens consisting of short and long staple fiber layers is the goal. These nonwovens are typically made from cellulose pulp and carded materials. In hygiene and medical applications, short-cut cellulose materials play a critical role in absorbing and retaining liquids. When the fiber length drops below 12 mm, the faster flushability of cellulose material offers a significant advantage in terms of waste management.

Wetlaid pulp can be hydrodynamically shaped using headbox technology (flowlip, inclined wire), which can be designed according to demand.

Wetlaid products can be further processed with carded web layers and hydroentanglement, integrating into different production processes.

Kansan Materials has successfully established a production line capable of processing hybrid raw materials developed based on the latest hydrodynamic simulation calculations. This line is equipped with advanced software technologies that assist operators in managing production processes in a fully automated, computer-supported mode.

As the main contractor, Dilo Systems GmbH aims to enhance the efficiency of nonwoven production for the hygiene and medical sectors by integrating Kansan’s wet wipe converting lines and end-of-line equipment. In this scope, the integration of materials produced with Dilo’s “CycloPunch” and “MicroPunch” needling machines into Kansan’s wet wipe converting lines is planned. Kansan is a strong partner in this field, with its expertise and leading position in the industry.

This joint development process and marketing efforts lay an excellent foundation for offering complete lines that can produce carded and needle-punched, carded and hydroentangled, carded and wetlaid nonwovens, as well as combinations of these techniques.

With a vision of offering innovative and sustainable solutions in the nonwoven sector, this partnership aims to increase production efficiency while minimizing environmental impact. Dilo Systems GmbH and Kansan’s technical expertise provides faster, cost-effective production processes tailored to customer needs. Furthermore, solutions have been developed in line with sustainability goals, such as energy efficiency and the use of recyclable materials. This collaboration is designed to create new opportunities in global markets, particularly in the hygiene, medical, and technical sectors, while expanding our reach to a broader customer base.

As the Indian textile and apparel sector embraces digitisation, sustainability, smarter production and responsible manufacturing, Gartex Texprocess India emerges as a critical node in this narrative bringing together the textile and garment machinery manufacturers, denim mill owners, digital textile printing technology solution providers, as well as manufacturers of apparel fabrics, textile and textile processing machinery and more, who are set to unfold innovations. With 125+ participating companies, representing 300+ brands and growing participation from international countries, this edition will offer a panoramic view of the sectors next chapter.

India’s textile industry often referred to as the lifeblood of nations manufacturing economy, is on the cusp of a technology-led transformation. Leading this evolution is Gartex Texprocess India – Mumbai organised by Messe Frankfurt Trade Fairs India Pvt Ltd and MEX Exhibitions Pvt Ltd. The expo is a definitive sourcing and innovation platform growing with global participation and solutions for the future.

What sets this edition apart is its focused attention on technology integration, automation and responsible manufacturing – themes that are redefining how India produces, sources and innovates on the global textile map through its product showcase as well as curated knowledge sessions.

A global showcase:
Making headlines this year is the strong international participation especially from China, Italy, Japan, Korea, Singapore and a dedicated pavilion for Taiwan, along with the leading Indian companies on board. Displaying a wide range of products for the garment and textile manufacturing industry. A few international names include: EPSON, Kornit and MACPI International among others. Some will participate directly and some through their partners and distributors. This global representation is matched with a stellar Indian line-up featuring names such as Balaji Sewing Machines, DCC, EH Turel, Mexum, Pantone and Sky Enterprises amongst others.

Denim Takes Centre Stage:
With the backing of Denim Manufacturers Association, the Denim Show at Gartex Texprocess India is expected to bring together all the major denim manufacturers and mill owners from India under one roof. As Indian denim exports steadily rise and demand for eco-conscious denim production grows, the show provides a much-needed window into how this resilient segment is re-inventing itself with sustainability and style at its core.

Trims & Accessories:
Beyond denim, this edition places a sharp focus on innovative fabric solutions, trims, digital screen printing and accessories – with dedicated zones for the Fabrics and Trims shows and Screen-Print India - Textile.

With 25+ new entrants and expanding categories, the Mumbai edition will be a hotspot for denim designers, boutique owners, apparel brands and labels, garment manufacturers, dyeing and finishing companies, distributors and agents of textile and garment machinery and accessories, merchandisers and sourcing heads scouting for the latest in material and design and more.

As India marches towards becoming a global textile powerhouse, Gartex Texprocess India – Mumbai 2025 will serve as the ultimate confluence of technology, talent and trade, weaving together a stronger future for the Indian textile industry.

Gartex Texprocess India is a leading exhibition in the textile manufacturing technology with collocated show: The Denim Show’ and dedicated featured zones of ‘Fabrics and Trims Show’ and ‘Screen Print India – Textile’ making this a one-stop destination for the textile manufacturing.

The expo is jointly organised by MEX Exhibitions Pvt Ltd and Messe Frankfurt Trade Fair India Pvt Ltd. Gartex Texprocess India Mumbai and is scheduled from 22 – 24 May 2025 at Jio World Convention Centre, Mumbai, Maharashtra.

Jeanologia introduces its new concept “ONE TECHNOLOGY. ALL POSSIBILITIES” at Kingpins Amsterdam. This statement of intent emphasizes laser technology as a tool for expression, efficiency, and transformation. One system, infinite possibilities to redefine denim and bring any creative vision to life. Through an exclusive capsule collection, the company highlights the boundless potential of laser as an aesthetic, versatile, and transformative tool.

At this year’s Kingpins in Amsterdam, Jeanologia presents a fresh perspective on laser technology not just a technique, but as an essential tool for designers, brands, and laundries looking to differentiate themselves, innovate, and embrace a more conscious, efficient, and emotionally connected model.

Pure Vintage: A tribute to classic denim. Garments that recapture the essence of authenticity by recreating natural wear effects with impeccable realism. Laser technology, combined with the Atmos washing process, achieves finishes that evoke decades of history, honoring both aesthetics and the environment.

Creative Possibilities: An innovative concept that positions laser as a medium for artistic expression, unlocking new creative possibilities. Vector designs, hyper-realistic images, drill effects, and visual textures stimulate the imagination, proving that technology can be both emotional and at the forefront of creative vanguard.

Denim Métiers by Jeanologia: As a special highlight, Jeanologia presents ‘Denim Métiers’, a unique exhibition creating a bridge between denim as an industrial material and haute couture. Conceptual garments that elevate denim into an artistic, refined dimension, creating a distinctive language that breaks both technical and aesthetic boundaries.

In the words of Carme Santacruz, Jeanologia’s Creative Director: “With ‘ONE TECHNOLOGY. ALL POSSIBILITIES’, we aim to go beyond the traditional technical view of laser and reveal its true essence as a versatile, emotional, and artistic tool, capable of adapting to every brand, designer, and production challenge.”

With this new proposal, Jeanologia wants to strengthen its position as a leader in sustainable innovation, pushing the textile industry toward a more creative, efficient, and conscious future.

At Chinaplas 2025, the Reifenhäuser Group will present its latest technological innovations for the efficient and sustainable production of plastic films. The extrusion specialists will showcase at Shenzhen World Exhibition & Convention Center from April 15 – 18 solutions that address the key challenges of today’s plastic industry: reducing resource consumption, increasing recyclability, and making production more autonomous and efficient. Meeting these demands requires advanced production technologies that Reifenhäuser already offers today.

A central focus at the show will be the use of Machine Direction Orientation (MDO) technologies for producing fully recyclable mono-material films with performance and cost-effectiveness equivalent to conventional multi-material structures.

Marcel Perrevort, CSO of the Reifenhäuser Group, explains: “In the flexible packaging sector, we are currently seeing a huge trend away from conventional and non-recyclable mixed material laminates towards fully recyclable mono-material composites, both for blown and cast films. Our state-of-the-art MDO stretching units enable enhanced mechanical properties for all-PE or all-PP films. Thus, PET films commonly used in material composites can be replaced. By downgauging, we also reduce production costs to a competitive level, making recyclable films a profitable choice.”

MDO for blown film lines
With the EVO Ultra Stretch MDO unit for Reifenhäuser’s blown film lines manufacturers produce all-PE mono films for applications such as high-barrier food pouches. Due to the stretch process film thicknesses of 18μm (with properties of a 25μm product) and less can be achieved, keeping production costs within the range of conventional films. With the patented integration of the MDO unit directly into the haul-off, the film is stretched in the ideal phase of the process – using the first heat – for maximum efficiency and film stability. Furthermore, the all-PE film achieves the required barrier effect with an EVOH content of less than five percent, fully meeting the criteria for recyclability. At the same time, Ultra Stretch enhances the performance of the EVOH barrier layer while reducing material usage, delivering cost and sustainability benefits.

With a clear focus on sustainability, Barmag, a subsidiary of the Swiss Oerlikon Group, is presenting comprehensive solutions from its product brands Oerlikon Barmag and Oerlikon Neumag for DTY and carpet yarn production at the Morocco Stitch & Tex Expo in Casablanca. From May 13 to 15, trade visitors can talk to experts from Barmag and the joint venture BB Engineering (BBE) at the Unionmatex booth (booth B4) to get an idea of the portfolio of the chemical fiber machine manufacturer.

Sustainable and efficient – the production of DTY yarns
Oerlikon Barmag offers a wide range of DTY machine configurations for the efficient and sustainable production of high-quality textured yarns made of various polymers – from polyester and polyamide to polypropylene, PLA and PTT. The modular machines – whether manual or automatic – produce yarns for excellent downstream processing at optimal OPEX costs.

Fancy yarns increasingly in demand
The demand for textiles with special characteristics is continuously increasing. For the production of these effect yarns, such as cotton-like DTY, linen-like DTY or wool-like DTY, Oerlikon Barmag offers a variety of processes and additional components. With its high-quality and flexible technology as well as its detailed knowledge of the yarn path and the required parameter settings, Oerlikon Barmag is the ideal partner for the successful and flexible production as well as the continuous further development of these specialty yarns.

Extended product range for carpet yarns
Thanks to its comprehensive knowledge of all relevant technologies in manmade fiber spinning, Oerlikon Barmag is the only manufacturer worldwide that can expand its range for the production of carpet yarns. The system concept, based on a POY and texturing process, is designed for the carpet and home textile sector and produces particularly soft and bulky polyester threads with BCF-like properties. The aim is to produce yarns with a titer of up to 1300dtex and over 1000 filaments, such as 1300dtex f1152, 660dtex f1152 and 990dtex f768. The machine concept includes the well-known WINGS HD POY winder and the eAFK Big-V texturing machine.

Innovative bicomponent BCF yarn for the carpet market
Quality, efficiency and performance – with its latest development in the field of bicomponent yarns for carpet production, Barmag's product brand Oerlikon Neumag is meeting the carpet market's demand for innovative BCF yarns. The new BICO-BCF yarn is characterized by a richer and higher volume and simultaneously significantly reduces the raw material consumption during carpet manufacturing.

VarioFil® – versatile compact spinning system for diverse applications and specialties
The VarioFil® system from BBE is ideal for a broad range of products, whether it be carpets, upholstery fabrics, fashion, sports, seat belts or airbags. This compact turnkey spinning line is particularly suitable for producers of small batches or specialized products. It flexibly processes various polymers such as PET, PP, PA 6, PA 6.6 and PBT. In combination with Oerlikon Barmag texturing machines, a wide range of textile standard yarns as well as textured yarns with BCF-like properties can be produced.

The VarioFil® R+ enables the direct recycling and processing of PET bottle flakes and PET waste from the start-up process into POY. This sustainable machine concept offers a high degree of product flexibility, including the production of spun-dyed yarn.

JeTex® air texturing offers a versatile product portfolio
BB Engineering also offers flexible solutions for the subsequent texturing of yarns. The JeTex® air texturing system perfectly complements the Oerlikon Barmag DTY systems and expands the product portfolio to include high-quality ATY based on POY and FDY for various textile applications. The centerpiece of the system is the texturing box developed by BB Engineering, which ensures gentle yarn treatment with reliable texturing effects and production efficiency.

“From waste to value” with VacuFil and Visco
BBE's VacuFil PET recycling system transforms textile waste into high-quality rPET melt. The technology is based on decades of experience in extrusion, filtration and spinning and combines gentle large-area filtration with targeted IV control. VacuFil processes various input materials, from bottle flakes to production waste and post-consumer waste. The patented Visco+ component removes volatile contaminants and automatically regulates the IV. The recycled melt can be added to the main melt stream, pelletized into chips or fed directly back into the spinning mill. The VacuFil system is modular and flexibly adaptable to customer needs.

The Austrian specialist in plastics recycling systems and components, EREMA, has appointed a long-time employee as Global Sales Director: Christoph Wöss, previously Business Development Manager for the Bottle division, will take over the newly created position within the EREMA management team on April 1, 2025.

Christoph Wöss has been part of the EREMA Group for 24 years and possesses in-depth market knowledge. With his extensive experience, he is well-versed in the international markets and the specific requirements of the plastic recycling industry. In his new role, he will manage EREMA’s global sales activities and drive the company’s strategic development in the global market. In this context, Christoph Wöss will lead the international sales team and work closely with EREMA's global subsidiaries to strengthen the company's market presence.

Large-area filtration faces the stigma of high costs, maintenance efforts, and time-consuming changeover and cleaning activities. However, good filtration is unavoidable with increasing rPET proportions. So, BB Engineering has addressed these issues with its decades of experience in extrusion and filtration. The new COBRA filter combines continuous and automated large-area filtration with integrated intermediate filter cleaning – setting a new standard in efficiency, ease of use and resource saving, and finally meeting the demanding requirements of recycling processes.

Large-area fine filtration made for recycling
Recyclers are currently dealing with a dilemma when it comes to filtration. Increasing recycling quotas coupled with insufficient availability mean that lower input qualities are also being considered for recycling, resulting in more challenging contaminants. At the same time, higher-quality applications are being targeted, which further intensifies the requirement for fine filtration. There are systems for large quantities of contaminants, but they do not filter as finely as a candle filter. There are also candle filters that provide excellent filtration but cannot cope with high levels of contamination.

The new COBRA filter can do both. It was specially developed for demanding filtration tasks with high levels of contamination, particularly in PET recycling. Multitasking is the keyword. COBRA unites large-area fine filtration with simultaneous, fast and effortless cleaning, and is therefore able to handle higher contamination rates, which common candle filters would fail on. However, this allrounder can also be used for other applications, e.g. in synthetic fiber spinning.

Continuity and process stability thanks to automation
As a continuous filter, the COBRA filter has two filter inserts, one of which is always active in production mode and the other either in stand-by mode or in intermediate cleaning. The automated switchover ensures a smooth changeover between the inserts. The status of the filter inserts is constantly checked by the system and, if necessary, the COBRA filter automatically initiates the cleaning and changeover process. All the operator has to do is confirm this on the user interface – no further manual intervention is required. The process thus continues to run stably and safely without interruption. Operator-related deviations in the switching process, operating errors or delays, all of which could affect the process, cannot occur.

Effortless inline cleaning – effective and safe
The highlight of the COBRA filter is the integration of BBE’s White Filter Cleaning technology (WFC). This process enables absolutely chemical-free and environmentally friendly intermediate cleaning of the filter inserts using hot steam alone and extends the filter’s service life many times over. BBE has already had WFC in its product portfolio as a stand-alone solution for several years. Now, for the first time, the cleaning system is integrated directly into a filter, bringing additional advantages, like cleaning speed and wear-reduction. Production and cleaning becomes an alternating interaction. Only after multiple operating/cleaning cycles (the exact number depends on product and degree of soiling) is it necessary to completely remove the filter insert for a service check and full cleaning. The WFC cleaning process only takes around 10 hours, whereas conventional cleaning takes several days. Filtration and cleaning form a self-contained, automated system that guarantees process and operating safety in equal measure: The operator does not have to handle melt or chemicals.

Development goals: Simplified handling, economic efficiency
BBE focused on simplifying filter changes and cleaning processes through automation as well as significant savings in operating costs. And that has been successful. Comparing the COBRA filter with other fine filters with a throughput of 2000 kg/h reveals a saving of 40% in pure operating costs. This saving results from various aspects. One significant part of the savings comes from the reduction of melt loss through backflush-cycles. Another key point is the continuous operation with significantly longer service life thanks to the integrated cleaning with steam. This is linked to reduced use of spare parts and consumables due to the gentle treatment, conversion costs and a lower energy requirement, as no heating and cooling phases and generally lower cleaning temperatures are required. Costs of chemicals are completely eliminated. Automation reduces personnel costs due to the low operating effort and training requirements. In terms of operation, the COBRA filter is also very safe - the closed system of filtration and cleaning without chemicals eliminates many of the risks associated with conventional filters and cleaning methods, such as the risk of injury and fire.

The cost savings are even more far-reaching if you extend the consideration to the downstream processes. The outstanding cleaning performance of COBRA saves a great deal of effort, interruptions and further processing.

The new COBRA filter will be presented to the public for the first time at the PRSE in Amsterdam at the beginning of April.

At the SaigonTex 2025 textile machinery exhibition which is taking place from April 9-12 in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, Monforts will highlight the benefits of its advanced finishing technologies for denim.

Over 900 Monforts THERMEX hotflue dyeing systems are now operational in the main textile producing countries, with many of them devoted to denim production, and a significant number already reaping the benefits of the Econtrol® and Econtrol®T-CA processes*.

Econtrol® is a continuous process for the dyeing of woven cotton and cellulosic fabrics in which reactive dyestuffs are fixed into the fabric in a one-step dyeing and drying operation with a controlled combination of steam and air. The entire pad-dry process takes just two-to-three minutes at a temperature of between 120-130°C and a relative humidity volume of 25-30%.

Monforts denim range concepts which are successfully running worldwide enable the processing of high-qualtiy and reproducible fabrics which are stretched and skewed far more gently than with conventional range combinations. The ‘double rubber’ version of a THERMEX range comprises two compressive shrinkage units and two felt calenders in line, for super elastic and bi-elastic materials. Additionally, the combined drying, stretching and skewing functions for denim fabric are possible with the ThermoStretch unit, which can also include an EcoApplicator system for the minimum application of necessary finishing chemicals.

In 2024, Vietnam surpassed Bangladesh to become the world’s second-largest textiles and apparel exporter, trailing only China, with total export revenues reaching $44 billion. This is in part due to tariffs that are currently 10-20% lower than China’s and significantly cheaper labour costs – less than half of China’s.

Vietnam’s textile and apparel industry is poised for further expansion in 2025, leveraging cost advantages and rapid production turnaround while proactively managing rising logistics costs and adapting to shifting trade dynamics.

* Econtrol® is a registered trademark of DyStar Colours Distribution GmbH, Germany.