From the Sector

National Council of Textile Organizations (NCTO) President and CEO Kim Glas issued the following statement on news of the passing of Congressman Bill Pascrell (D-NJ).

Statement by NCTO President and CEO Kim Glas:

"The entire U.S. textile industry is mourning the loss of Congressman Bill Pascrell (D-NJ), a true leader and advocate for critical manufacturing policies aimed at bolstering the domestic supply chain and confronting ongoing threats from predatory trade practices.

We commend his significant contributions – not just to the U.S. domestic industry—but for American manufacturers and workers everywhere.

Rep. Pascrell had served as co-chair of the House Textile Caucus with Rep. Patrick McHenry (R-NC) since 2013 and was an ardent fighter for the U.S. textile industry and beyond.

In April, Congressman Pascrell championed a bill titled the Import Security and Fairness Act led by Rep. Earl Blumenauer (D-OR) that would exclude all Chinese imports from de minimis treatment, as highlighted in our blog post on a House Ways & Means markup.

He also penned an op-ed with Congressman McHenry highlighting the urgent need to drive investment and for onshoring and nearshoring textile and apparel production and to not weaken the critical U.S. and Central America  Dominican Republic-Central America Free Trade Agreement (CAFTA-DR)..

In addition, he co-sponsored legislation aimed at strengthening the American PPE supply chain which would expand the Berry Amendment to nearly all federal purchases of PPE.

As is evidenced above, Congressman Pascrell took on every policy battle in support of U.S. textiles and manufacturing in general as an unwavering supporter of maintaining and expanding a vital domestic manufacturing chain.  He worked closely with Rep. McHenry on critical textile issues to advance the cause for our domestic industry and its workforce.

He will be missed deeply by the industry and to all who knew him. We extend our gratitude to a manufacturing warrior and express our condolences to the entire Pascrell family and his staff team."

Dr. Alfred J. Beerli, the new CEO of OEKO-TEX®, started in June. Dr Beerli brings experience in strategic management consulting and operational, IT and knowledge management.

The Swiss native has served as CEO of information and communications technology consultancy uniQconsulting ag and workwear provider workfashion.com ag. From 2012 to 2016 he was a Board Member of amfori BSCI, a leading initiative to improve working conditions in global supply chains.

In his role as CEO of OEKO-TEX®, Dr Beerli is further developing the OEKO-TEX® portfolio. Along with the 17 independent research and testing institutes of the OEKO-TEX® Association he is committed to ensuring sustainable and transparent processes in the international textile and leather industry. A focus of his work is dialogue and cooperation with government institutions, initiatives and trade associations, for which he has excellent expertise and an extensive network.

From 7 to 9 August 2024, the sixth edition of IFCO Istanbul Fashion Connection took place with 300 exhibitors in a total of 4 halls at the Istanbul Expo Centre.

With this event, Istanbul Fashion Connection underlines its importance as a hub for the international fashion industry. Compared to the previous year's event, the proportion of international visitors increased by 13.9%. Almost 18,000 visitors came to IFCO in Istanbul, 35% of whom came from abroad. The most represented region was Asia with 31.3%, followed by the Middle East (31.3%), Europe (16.4%), North Africa (13.4%), North America, South America and Africa together with 3.1%. High-ranking buyer groups from a total of 121 countries came to IFCO to find out about the latest fashion trends, network and place orders.

Divided into clear product areas on a total of 30,000 square metres of exhibition space in four halls, brands and manufacturers presented the latest collections from the areas of womenswear, menswear, kidswear, denim, sportswear, evening and wedding wear, lingerie, hosiery, leather and furs.

The next IFCO is planned for 5-8 February 2025.

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited (IVL) reported a slight rise in quarterly performance, supported by a gradual recovery in sales volumes and as management executes the company’s IVL 2.0 strategy to optimize its manufacturing model, reduce costs, and enhance competitiveness.

Indorama Ventures’ reported Adjusted EBITDA  of $370 million in 2Q24, a 1% rise QoQ and a decline of 11% YoY. The company’s sales volumes increased 1% YoY due to subdued economic activity, but also signaling the end of a prolonged period of destocking that began in late 2022. Operating rates for the group increased from 74% to 76% in 1H24, although still at lower-than-average levels, signifying the weak global economic conditions. On a proforma basis, considering asset optimization actions, operating rates increase to 81%.

The Indovinya segment posted a robust performance on improved margins and rebounding demand for its high value-add downstream products. The packaging business, newly renamed ‘Indovida’, also performed well due to its leading footprint in emerging markets.

Looking ahead, Indorama Ventures is encouraged by the gradual improvement in the operating environment as customer inventory levels normalize, which is expected to spur further growth in volumes across all segments in 2H24. The company also expects to benefit in 2H24 from its shale gas advantage in the U.S, reflected in ethylene crack margins, positively impacting its integrated MEG business. Continued higher import prices in Western markets will enhance the company’s competitiveness as a leading local operator.

While the polyester industry manages the downcycle, Indorama Ventures’ experienced management team is working hard to deleverage and optimize the business under the company’s IVL 2.0 strategy to emerge stronger and drive enhanced earnings quality in an era of higher interest rates and a substantially changed industry landscape. As flagged at its Capital Markets Day on 6 March this year and reaffirmed in its Mid year strategic update on 24 July, the company is making substantial progress with IVL 2.0. In 2Q24, it recorded an impairment and expense provision of $666 million ($543 million is non cash) under its asset optimization program to improve manufacturing efficiency and reduce fixed costs. The cost benefits will start from 3Q24 and amount to about $170 million in savings in 2025. The company expects that the remaining asset optimizations will not have material impairments.

Management is continuing its intense focus on managing costs and extracting efficiencies, including its Olympus 2.0 program. These efforts achieved $47 million in savings in 1H24 ($29 million in 2Q24). The company is continually optimizing its capital expenditure, with capex supporting investments in sustainability—such as recycling in India—and automation and digital technology, as well as ongoing projects.

A key part of Indorama Ventures’ transformation journey is the implementation of new digital and AI tools to drive operational excellence in key areas, including manufacturing, commercial, procurement, sales, supply chain, and finance excellence. A significant portion of operations now have the new SAP S/4HANA ERP platform as a digital core, while rollouts of other world-leading solutions are ongoing in a phased approach through to 2026.

Segment Performances
The Combined PET (CPET) with Intermediate Chemicals segment posted an Adjusted EBITDA of $234 million in 2Q24, a 6% decline QoQ and a 25% decrease YoY, due to a one-time upside impact from a campaign run of NDC campaign in 1Q24 and as reduced industry spreads weighed on the Integrated PET business. A cracker outage at Lake Charles in the U.S also resulted in a $17-18 million impact to EBITDA. The cracker is gradually up and running in 3Q24.

The Indovinya segment recorded a strong Adjusted EBITDA of $98 million, a 41% gain QoQ and 85% YoY on increased volumes as destocking eased, supported by demand for downstream chemical surfactants amid the U.S crops season.

The Fibers segment recorded Adjusted EBITDA of $39 million, a 2% rise QoQ and a 19% gain YoY amid improved sales strategies and a robust focus on cost management, even as volumes declined, particularly in the Lifestyle business.

Stratasys announced its plans to move its U.S.-based headquarters from Eden Prairie, Minn. to a new Minnetonka campus. With the move, Stratasys will consolidate most Minnesota-based offices into one larger, more dynamic corporate campus.

The new corporate campus, comprised of two leased buildings on the current United Health Care campus site, is expected to open its doors on January 6, 2025. It will feature the latest technology, amenities, and designed work areas to inspire innovation and creativity.

The company expects the move to increase collaboration and productivity. It is also an opportunity to take advantage of the current real estate environment.

Stratasys will maintain a presence in Eden Prairie with its Stratasys Direct Manufacturing facility. Stratasys intends to list the current Edenvale headquarters building and its Wallace Road buildings for sale as staff transition to the Minnetonka site.

Stratasys Inc. was founded in Eden Prairie in 1989 by former CEO and current board member, Scott Crump.

bluesign and SCTI donate the Sustainable Chemistry Index (SCI) Methodology to ZDHC aiming to advance sustainable chemistry within the textile industry. This collaboration aims to revolutionize chemical management in the textile, leather and fashion industries, while addressing environmental impact in a holistic manner.

For decades, the use of hazardous chemicals in clothing has been a major challenge. Despite industry efforts with numerous overlapping standards and voluntary schemes - the textile, leather and fashion industries struggle with varying regulations, inconsistent data and a lack of common action. Inconsistent regulations, limited transparency, and little coordinated action hinder progress, while consumers do not receive information about the overall environmental impact of these industries.

Leading organizations in the textile sector are elevating the conversation to tackle these issues head-on with converging assessment tools.

SCTI, a group of innovative and pioneering chemical manufacturers, aims to bring positive change to the textile industry and make sustainable chemistry the norm. bluesign has extensive experience in ensuring safe and responsible chemical management, environmental and worker safety as well as resource efficiency in the production of textiles. The ZDHC Foundation, driven by major fashion brands, is on a mission to detox the fashion industry by providing tools and guidelines for sustainable chemical management.
The Start of the Sustainable Chemistry Index (SCI):
In 2022, SCTI and bluesign announced the development of the first comprehensive Sustainable Chemistry Index (SCI) for the textile industry. The pioneering work leverages best available technologies, while transcending existing chemical assessments, and introduces a one-stop-shopping tool for a broader assessment of environmental impact. Such an approach was missing. Now, the SCI introduces a standard common language for convergence and alignment throughout global textile.

The SCI brings new parameters to assess how chemical products improve resource utilisation in the processes they are used along the life cycle of a garment. Key building blocks include supply chain transparency, responsible sourcing, feedstock reducing fossil dependency, product carbon footprint, resource consumption, efficiency in use during textile production, end use impact and end-of-life of consumer applications. This transparent framework makes it easier for the industry to evaluate the sustainability impact of chemicals present in a garment and promote circularity.

A Collaborative Donation to Advance the Industry:
To advance and foster industry-wide collaboration, SCTI and bluesign are donating, the SCI to ZDHC as the cornerstone of its Chemicals to Zero (CTZ-A) program. CTZ-A represents the highest level of sustainable chemistry within ZDHC. In 2024, the SCI content will undergo ZDHC's stakeholder engagement and consultation processes, aiming to enhance the Roadmap to Zero Program by addressing sustainability and circularity. ZDHC will make the SCI content freely available to the public, enabling widespread adoption and impact.

The ZDHC program is well-positioned to complement the expertise of bluesign and SCTI and to scale its impact within a multistakeholder structure. This collaboration empowers manufacturers and brands to make informed, responsible choices in terms of chemicals and processes, committing to sustainable chemistry and benefiting society.

Transforming old textiles into new, high-quality materials on a large scale – that is the subject of a new innovation project by eeden, the Textile Logistics Center (CTL) at the Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences and the Fraunhofer IML, and Hohenstein.

The project aims to promote a circular textile economy through technological and logistical optimizations. eeden's innovative fiber-to-fiber recycling process will be further developed to efficiently process textile waste from laundries. Additionally, logistics will be restructured, from collection to recycling, to ensure a resource-conserving and efficient supply of this material stream. With a total investment of over €625,000, the project is co-financed by the Ministry for the Environment, Nature Conservation and Transport of the State of North Rhine-Westphalia and the European Union as part of the Green Economy in NRW innovation competition.

Hohenstein and eeden jointly conduct analytical tests on used textiles to accurately determine the properties of the textile waste after various cleaning cycles.

Subsequently, the CTL, supported by eeden, will develop a concept for the efficient procurement of raw materials and their integration into a sustainable business structure.

Finally, the new process will be validated by eeden on a technical scale. By 2026, the close collaboration between eeden, the Center Textile Logistics (CTL) and Hohenstein aims to promote textile circularity and make a significant contribution to reducing textile waste.

Indorama Ventures Public Company Limited announces its role in the T-REX (Textile Recycling Excellence) Project. This initiative aims to establish a harmonized EU blueprint for the closed-loop sorting and recycling of household textile waste to help the fashion industry transition towards a more circular and sustainable future. By bringing together key stakeholders across the entire value chain, the project positions itself at the forefront of sustainable innovation.

The designated spinning partner, Indorama Ventures, will process the chemical recycled feedstock into polyester yarns and fibers through the extrusion process, ensuring the elimination of impurities. The company’s participation in the project also aligns with its goals of driving the circular economy and circular fashion industry through PET recycling and supply of recycled materials, underscoring its commitment to sustainability.

The T-REX Project launched with the aim of creating a harmonised blueprint which will support the creation of a circular system for post-consumer textile waste within Europe. The EU funded project brings together a consortium of 13 major players from across the entire value chain along with research institutes to transform end-of-use textiles from waste into valuable feedstock and a commodity for new business models that can be adopted at scale.

Major developments:

• Currency-neutral sales up 11%, driven by adidas brand accelerating to 16% growth
• adidas brand up double digits across all channels with increases in all markets
• Underlying gross margin improves around 1.5 percentage points to 50.5% despite significant currency headwinds
• Operating profit of € 346 million compared to € 176 million in prior-year period
• Healthy inventories at a level of € 4.5 billion to support future top-line growth
• Full-year guidance upgraded on July 16 to reflect current brand momentum

Full-year outlook
High-single-digit revenue increase expected in 2024
On July 16, adidas raised its top- and bottom-line guidance as a result of the better-than-expected performance during the second quarter and taking into account the current brand momentum. adidas now expects currency-neutral revenues to increase at a high-single-digit rate in 2024 (previously: to increase at a mid- to high-single-digit rate). The company’s operating profit is now expected to reach a level of around € 1.0 billion (previously: to reach a level of around € 700 million). Within this guidance, adidas assumes the sale of the remaining Yeezy inventory during the remainder of the year to occur on average at cost. This would result in additional revenues of around € 150 million and no further profit contribution during the second half of 2024.

Outlook impacted by significant currency headwinds
The company continues to expect unfavorable currency effects to weigh significantly on its profitability this year. These effects are negatively impacting both reported revenues and the gross margin development in 2024. This was particularly the case during the first half of the year.

The Lenzing Group is working with the non-profit organisation RTDS Group and 13 other partners from research and industry to promote the scaling of lyocell filaments as part of the CELLFIL project. Co-funded by the EU with EUR 6.9 million, the project aims to drive the reformation of the textile industry towards greater sustainability and a circular economy.

The Austrian organisation RTDS has launched the CELLFIL project with great vision. In close cooperation with Lenzing Group, which is at the technical helm of the project, CELLFIL aims to reform the textile industry. The centrepiece of the project is the sustainable and robust production of lyocell filaments. By optimising the entire fabric production process and its intermediate processing steps, the aim is to replace synthetic fibers with environmentally friendly lyocell filaments in recyclable end applications. This approach aims to develop and utilise alternative raw material sources for textiles. The realisation of these goals is crucial for scaling up lyocell filament production and promoting a circular economy that represents an environmentally friendly alternative to the currently dominant fossil-based synthetic filaments.

CELLFIL is part of the EU research and innovation program Horizon Europe and is supported by 15 partners from eight different countries. EUR 6.9 million from the European Union's Horizon Europe program has been made available for the implementation of this initiative. The European Commission has presented a visionary roadmap for the future of textiles, aiming for a circular economy in which all textiles on the EU market are durable, repairable and recyclable. This underlines Europe's commitment to sustainable innovation and a greener future in the textile sector.