From the Sector

Ibrahim Fibres operates nearly 200 Trützschler cards, which is more than any other business in Pakistan. The leading yarn and Polyester Staple Fiber (PS) manufacturer has partnered with Trützschler for over two decades - and recently wanted to start processing long polyester and viscose fibers. It's an unusual request that brings unique challenges.

Pakistan is the eighth largest exporter of textiles in Asia and has the third largest spinning capacity in the continent. Ibrahim Fibres, located in Faisalabad, is a big contributor to that economic strength. The pioneering company produces a wide range of yarns for woven, and knitted fabrics. This includes various blends of cotton, viscose and polyester in different proportions and combinations with yarn counts ranging from Ne 8 to Ne 50. Ibrahim Fibres uses its own polyester via 240,000 spindles at four factories, mainly to produce poly-viscose and poly-cotton combed yarn. In total, the company manufactures 1,200 tons of PSF per day and consumes around 100 tons of its own materials per day. The remaining material is sold to other textile manufacturers.

An unusual challenge
Teams from Ibrahim Fibres often approach Trützschler with fresh ideas and new expectations. They recently set the challenge of producing top-quality yarns from unusually long polyester and viscose fibers. These fibers are used for luxury textiles, high-performance fabrics, fine bedding and advanced nonwoven materials. The end products benefit from the fibers outstanding strength and durability. Often, people in the textile industry talk about the problems with processing short fibers. But long fibers also present difficulties because they have a tendency to wrap or clog carding elements. Their length also makes them more tightly bound, which means they are more difficult to open.

What was the answer to this unusual challenge? Collaboration! Experts from Trützschler worked closely with partners at Ibrahim Fibres to explore potential solutions. "Our technical teams regularly collaborate with Trützschler’s R&D department to enhance production using Industry 4.0 principles, Al, and the latest technology," says Zafar Iqbal. "We’ve now developed a method for handling longer fibers that improves yarn consistency, end-product performance, and cost efficiency, while reducing waste. Our ongoing partnership with Trützschler continues to drive innovation and efficiency in our operations."

TC 30Si is here to help...
Ibrahim Fibres wanted to process 51mm polyester with 51 mm viscose fibers. In line with these requirements, Trützschler engineers optimized the TC 30Si carding machine for processing long polyester and viscose fibers. This machine is specifically customized for man-made fibers and can process these fibers more effectively due to its larger drum diameter, which results in a 14 % extended carding length. The machine also has 35 % more active flats. It has one licker-in and its cylinder, doffer wire, flat tops and stationary flats are all designed for processing man-made fibers.

"We chose TC 30Si for its advanced features, such as its 1400 mm cylinder diameter, extended carding lengths, and the automatic T-GO gap optimizer," says Zafar Iqbal. "These attributes support our Industry 4.0 goals by enhancing technology integration, data use, and operational efficiency, making it ideal for modernizing production and staying competitive in the textile industry."

And Ibrahim Fibres has even more reasons for choosing the TC 30Si: "It has user-friendly software and an intuitive Human Machine Interface (HMI), making it easy to maintain with minimal adjustments. This card boosts productivity and reduces energy consumption, while also improving consistency and reducing defects."

EDANA, the global association for the nonwovens and related industries, concluded its annual Sustainability Forum at the KBR Royal Library of Belgium in Brussels. This year's forum, themed “Building a Sustainable Future Together,” featured a series of keynote addresses, panel discussions, and collaborative sessions focused on environmental responsibility, corporate social responsibility, and circular economy innovations within the nonwovens sector. With an agenda that bridged policy and practice, the Forum highlighted the latest advancements and strategies aimed at tackling climate change, reducing waste, and enhancing sustainability practices.

Keynote Highlights
The forum featured two keynote speakers: Ana Rovzar, Founder of Polygon AR, opened the Forum with a keynote on the accelerating transition to clean energy. In her speech, she discussed the shift from conventional energy investments to renewables, noting a 50% growth in renewables in 2023 alone. “It is accelerating much faster than people think” she remarked, emphasizing that “real progress requires a united front from governments, businesses, and communities to remove regulatory and technological barriers”.

In another keynote, sustainability expert Mike Barry, formerly of Marks & Spencer, stressed the importance of aligning corporate strategy with sustainability. “Citizens see climate change as a top priority, and companies must act boldly to reduce emissions, especially Scope 3”, he said. “Sustainability is now a vital part of brand identity, and consumers expect more transparency and commitment than ever”.

Innovative Industry Perspectives and EU Policy Impacts
Brieuc Lits, Public Affairs Director at EDANA, examined the potential effects of the EU Green Deal on the nonwovens industry. “The EU’s shift towards balancing sustainability with competitiveness will shape not only policy but the very framework within which we operate”, he noted, emphasizing that the sector must adapt to stay competitive and aligned with regulatory expectations.

Lastly, Paolo Haeusermann, Senior Brand Director and Europe Sustainability Leader at Procter & Gamble, shared insights on advancing sustainability in absorbent hygiene products and emphasized the importance of these items. “We are talking about essential products in people’s lives”, he remarked.

Corporate and Product Sustainability: A Deep Dive
Several industry leaders shared insights on integrating sustainability at every level of business. Carsten Ruff from Nitto Advanced Film Solutions discussed the challenges and strategies of embedding sustainability in corporate culture, particularly in a multinational setting. “Sustainability is not a contradiction to industrial applications; it’s a powerful driver of innovation”, he observed.

Martijn Gipmans from Sphera Solutions highlighted the business value of transparency and life-cycle assessments (LCA). “LCA and transparent ESG reporting can catalyse both business growth and environmental progress”, he explained, stressing the importance of integrated sustainability assessments to reduce the carbon footprint of entire product portfolios.

Christophe Morel-Fourrier, Sustainability Leader for Hygiene, Packaging, and Converting Adhesives at Bostik, introduced the Archimedes tool as a strategic asset for Portfolio Sustainability Assessment. “Archimedes allows us to make transparent, informed decisions that align with our long-term sustainability goals”, he explained. He highlighted that this tool helps companies evaluate the sustainability of their product portfolios, empowering them to make impactful choices that support environmental goals.

The Path Forward: Advancing Circularity and Green Innovation
One of the most discussed topics was the industry's transition toward a circular economy. Albert Hammerschmied from Freudenberg Performance Materials highlighted the importance of post-industrial waste in achieving circularity, particularly in the automotive sector. “The potential for nonwovens in the automotive circular economy is vast, but requires industry-wide collaboration”, he commented.

In a session addressing the future of sustainable practices in building insulation, Alexandre Butté of ANDRITZ Laroche emphasized the importance of sustainable materials and collaboration among stakeholders. “The building industry faces unique sustainability challenges, but with innovation and eco-friendly materials, we can bridge the gap between goals and achievable practices”, he said.

Building a Sustainable Health Sector
Danielle van Horzen, Global Marketing Manager for Hygiene and Healthcare at SABIC, discussed advanced recycling solutions in the healthcare sector. Addressing the challenges of medical waste recycling, she stated, “A significant amount of medical waste is not contaminated, offering us opportunities to create circularity in healthcare.” She pointed to the potential for advanced chemical recycling to enable circular models, helping to tackle the pressing issue of sustainable medical waste management.

The day concluded with a session on the circular potential within healthcare. Kristien Depraetere, Sustainability Coordinator at UZ Leuven, outlined sustainable practices in hospitals, from waste reduction to advanced recycling in medical waste. “Healthcare can lead by example in the transition to circularity, yet we need practical and legislative support to address unique industry challenges”.

Visit to the European Commission
The third day of EDANA’s Sustainability Forum 2024 concluded with an insightful visit to the European Commission, offering attendees a unique opportunity to engage directly with policymakers and gain firsthand insights into the EU's sustainability agenda. Hosted at the Charlemagne Building, discussions centered on pivotal elements of the EU Green Deal, including the establishment of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR), the scope and implementation of the Single-Use Plastics Directive (SUPD), and the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation.

Featuring presentations from prominent EU officials like Vicenzo Gente and Werner Bosmans, attendees delved into how these regulations are shaping sustainability strategies across industries. Bridging policy and practice emerged as essential, reinforcing the forum’s dedication to aligning industry actions with current EU regulatory frameworks. The session offered a strong conclusion to the event, reinforcing a shared commitment to a sustainable future in collaboration with EU leaders and regulatory bodies.

A new generation of space materials left Earth November. 5 as they head to the International Space Station (ISS) to undergo testing in the brutal conditions of low Earth orbit.

Developed at the University of Bristol, these high-performance materials could be used to build future space stations, spacecraft for interplanetary travel or a new ISS.

They will be placed on the Bartolomeo platform, located on the front of the ISS, where they will orbit Earth up to 9,000 times over the next 12 to 18 months at speeds of 17,000 mph.

The carbon fibre reinforced composites will need to survive temperatures between -150ºC and +120ºC, space debris travelling seven times faster than a bullet, severe electromagnetic radiation, high vacuum and atomic oxygen, which erodes even the toughest materials.

Prof Ian Hamerton, Professor of Polymers and Sustainable Composites in the University of Bristol’s world-leading Bristol Composites Institute, said:  

“Space is the most challenging environment for which to design new materials. You’re pitting your materials expertise, skills and ingenuity against extremes of temperature, mechanical stress, radiation, high speed impacts and more.

“Any one of those might be difficult, and, unfortunately, gaining access to repair them is not an easy option, so the materials we build must survive without maintenance.  

“The opportunity to test our materials in the proving ground of space is priceless and will help our University of Bristol scientists on the ground improve fibre-reinforced materials for next-generation space missions.”

There are four laboratory-made polymers heading to the ISS, each of which has been reinforced with carbon fibres and two contain nanoparticles. All four are the result of University of Bristol research and one is patented.

 If the materials cope in the harsh environment, they could be used to create longer-lasting space components, allowing spacecraft to travel further, and spend more time in space.

Future communities on new planets will need protection against galactic cosmic radiation. Dr Ali Kandemir, Senior Research Associate at the University of Bristol, is one of several Bristol researchers, supported by the UK Space Agency (UKSA), examining the effects of simulated galactic cosmic radiation on the materials, in a European Space Agency (ESA) project.

Dr Kandemir said: “We want materials that are resilient in the space environment and, importantly, materials that can shield humans from that radiation.

“We also want to make these materials sustainable, so that when they reach the end of their life they can be recycled and used again for the same purpose.”

The launch of the Space X Dragon CRS-2 spacecraft this morning is the culmination of five years of work for Prof Hamerton and his team.

It has included the efforts of early career researchers, postgraduates and several Aerospace Engineering undergraduates at the University of Bristol, whose final year research projects have been linked to the space materials project.

The practical support of the University of Bristol-hosted National Composites Centre (NCC) was crucial to the scale up of the composite materials.

Prof Kate Robson Brown, Vice-President for Research, Innovation and Impact at University College Dublin, and a collaborator on the project, said:

“After nearly five years of research to develop novel composite materials for space applications it is very exciting to see our experiment launch to the International Space Station.

“I am proud to be part of this mission, and to be working with the multidisciplinary and multisector research team to deliver integrated real world and digital testing for innovative materials which will help to drive growth in the new space economy.

“This mission also demonstrates how space research funding creates career changing opportunities for early career researchers and PhD students in a sector of huge value to both Ireland and the UK.”

Funding to support the project was supplied by the ESA, the UKSA, Oxford Space Systems and others.

For the first time, a piece of clothing is made entirely from textile waste – no bottles, no packaging, no virgin plastic. 100% biorecycled fibers. By developing and industrializing CARBIOS’ enzymatic depolymerization technology to achieve 100% “fiber-to-fiber” recycling, the consortium collectively advances the textile industry's shift towards a circular economy.

CARBIOS, a pioneer in the development and industrialization of biological technologies to reinvent the life cycle of plastic and textiles, and its “fiber-to-fiber” consortium partners On, Patagonia, PUMA, Salomon, and PVH Corp., parent company of Calvin Klein, unveil the world’s first enzymatically recycled polyester garment made from 100% textile waste using CARBIOS’ pioneering biorecycling technology.

This technological feat contributes to advancing textile circularity when, today, the majority of recycled polyester is made from PET bottles, and only 1% of fibers are recycled into new fibers.  The collective achievement marks an important milestone for the consortium’s ultimate aim of demonstrating fiber-to-fiber closed loop using CARBIOS’ biorecycling process at an industrial scale, and marks an important step forward for the textile industry’s shift towards a circular economy.

A plain, white T-shirt was a deliberate choice to showcase the technological achievement that made its production possible from mixed and colored textile waste.  By using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology, polyester is broken down using enzymes into its fundamental building blocks which are reformed to produce biorecycled polyester whose quality is on par with oil-based virgin polyester.  Petroleum can now be replaced by textile waste as a raw material to produce polyester textiles, that will in turn become raw materials again, thus fueling a circular economy, with the added benefit of a lower carbon footprint and avoidance of landfill or incineration.

The t-shirt’s production began with all consortium members (On, Patagonia, PUMA, PVH Corp. and Salomon) supplying rolls and production cutting scraps to CARBIOS in Clermont-Ferrand, France.  This textile waste consisted of some mixed blends with cotton or elastane, as well as various treatments (such as durable water repellent) and dyes which render them complex to recycle using conventional methods. The collected waste was deconstructed into its original monomers, PTA and MEG, using CARBIOS’ biorecycling technology at its pilot facility. The resulting monomers were then repolymerized, spun into yarn and woven into new fabric by external partners, demonstrating the seamless integration into existing manufacturing processes.  The resulting sports t-shirt made from 100% textile waste meets the quality standards and sustainability objectives of the apparel brands present in the “fiber-to-fiber” consortium.

CARBIOS’ demonstration plant in Clermont-Ferrand, France, has been up and running since 2021, and its first commercial plant, the world’s first industrial-scale enzymatic PET recycling plant, is currently under construction in Longlaville, France.  In addition, CARBIOS recently announced several letters of intent with PET producers in Asia and Europe, confirming global interest in its biorecycling technology and advancing the international roll-out of its licensing model.

In September, Ontex reached a binding agreement to sell its Brazilian business activities to Softys SA for an enterprise value of approximately €110 million, enabling improved focus on retail brands and healthcare in Europe and North America. Net proceeds of approximately €82 million are due at closing, which is expected during the first half of 2025, subject to customary conditions.

In October, the social negotiations regarding the transformation of the operating footprint in Belgium were successfully concluded. This transformation fits in Ontex’s footprint optimization, allowing to further strengthen Ontex’s competitive position. The total one-time cost is estimated at €(66) million, of which €(37) million was already recorded in the second quarter.

Q3 2024 results

• Revenue was €468 million, up 1.7% like for like. Volumes, including mix effects, were up 4.4%, driven by contract gains and supportive demand in adult care, and by growth in baby care with new retail customers in North America. Sales prices were 2.6% lower, as expected, reflecting raw material index decreases and investments in increased competitiveness. Forex fluctuations were supportive, adding 0.7%, bringing total growth at 2.4%.
• Adjusted EBITDA was €56 million, up 29% year on year, thanks to volume and mix growth and the cost transformation program delivery, contributing €8 million and €14 million respectively. The operational efficiency improved further by 3.7%, driving stronger profitability and competitiveness. Index-driven lower raw material costs more than compensated for lower sales prices, leading to a €4 million positive net impact. The increase of other operating and SG&A costs had a €(12) million effect, mostly due to continued inflation. Forex fluctuations had an adverse effect of €(2) million. The adjusted EBITDA margin thereby rose to 12.0%, up 2.4pp year on year.
• Operating profit was €8 million, compared to €29 million in 2023. The decrease relates to the transformation of the Belgian operating footprint and reflects the additional one-time provisions taken following the recent successful conclusion of the social plan negotiations.
• Discontinued operations generated a €14 million operating profit, compared to €12 million in 2023. While revenue was 3.0% lower like for like and the adjusted EBITDA margin dropped to 7.6%, reflecting more challenging market conditions, this was compensated by a net gain on disposal, that was triggered by the agreement to divest the Brazilian business.
• Net financial debt for the Total Group dropped €9 million to €579 million over the quarter. Combined with the adjusted EBITDA improvement, the leverage ratio thereby fell from 2.5x at the end of June to 2.4x at the end of September.

2024 outlook

Ontex’s management confirms its guidance for adjusted EBITDA margin, free cash flow and leverage for the full year. While new customers are on-boarded in North America, the ramp-up is phased more gradually over the third quarter and the coming months, leading management to review its revenue growth guidance, now expecting:

• Revenue [1] to grow between 2% and 3% like for like;
• Adjusted EBITDA margin [1] of 12%;
• Free cash flow higher than €20 million;
• Leverage ratio below 2.5x at year end.

INDA, the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry, in collaboration with Nonwovens Industry Magazine, is now accepting nominations for the 2025 IDEA® Achievement Awards. Industry professionals in the nonwoven and engineered materials sectors are invited to submit their innovative products—or those of their clients—for consideration.

The IDEA Achievement Awards honor innovations introduced since IDEA22, recognizing excellence in six categories. Winners will be announced during IDEA25, which will be held at the Miami Beach Convention Center, Miami Beach, Florida, from April 29 to May 1, 2025.

Award Categories:

• Raw Materials – Best new raw materials introduction
• Nonwoven Product – Best new nonwoven fabric introduction
• Short-Life – Best new short-life product introduction
• Long-Life – Best new durable product introduction
• Equipment – Best new equipment introduction
• Sustainability Advancement – Recognizing sustainability and/or circularity advancements in raw materials, nonwoven fabrics, processes and equipment, and end-use products.

Entries must be submitted by December 16, 2024 for consideration. Finalists in each category will be selected by INDA’s Technical Advisory Board, with the top three in each category moving forward. Voting will take place on the Nonwovens Industry website, allowing industry professionals to determine the winners. Additionally, the recipient of the Entrepreneur Award will be chosen exclusively by Nonwovens Industry Magazine.

Smart Closet is an innovative event dedicated to new generation fashion where C.L.A.S.S and Equipe International, through the InsideOut approach by C.L.A.S.S., come together to represent a smart wardrobe - beautiful, innovative, responsible - together with a new language of values with the aim to share the fully transparent journey behind each product and company, to show their outer and inner values. All values and concepts that are part of Bemberg™ identity.

Bemberg™ is the brand name of the regenerated cellulose fiber cupro, produced only by Asahi Kasei in Japan. It is a special fiber with a circular economy footprint thanks to the fact that it is made from a regenerated cellulose obtained from the manufacturing process of cottonseed oil with a closed-loop process. It guarantees certified sustainability credentials through its transparent and traceable approach. It delivers high quality and versatile applications, comfortable whatever the season: its blissful sensation glides on linings, outerwear, underwear, sportswear and even couture pieces. All perfect characteristics that fit in Smart Closet initiative.

The project chosen to participate with is the incredible capsule collection A Dress For Venice designed by eco-designer Tiziano Guardini, illustrated by artist Jacopo Ascari, and produced by Martina Vidal Venezia, a Venetian brand that has enriched the garments with some elements in Burano lace, an ancient art candidate to enter the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity!
 
Inspired by the city of water, it’s made with Bemberg™ fabrics created by Infinity Srl with the textile printing done by Creazioni Digitali, which with the CreŌ | project  printed on Bemberg™ fabrics with low-water pigment inks technology . This collection truly represents and includes all the values of beauty, innovation and supply chain partnerships, all elements.

Re-Matters Textile Recycling Solutions is an innovative start-up promoting circular value streams within the textile industry. The company announced a strategic partnership with COLOURizd, a pioneer in sustainable textile coloration technology.
 
This collaboration aims to support the transformation of the industry by combining COLOURizd' cutting-edge dyeing technology with Re-Matters' circular expertise to drive more sustainable practices throughout the supply chain.
 
Established in 2023, Re-Matters was created in response to mounting global environmental concerns and the rising need for sustainable textile solutions. Leveraging over 40 years of experience from their parent company, Ereks Blue Matters, Re-Matters offers engineering and consultancy services to the textile supply chain in assisting organizations in minimizing their environmental footprint through tailored solutions that emphasize reduction, reuse, recycling, and regeneration.
 
COLOURizd' innovative QuantumCOLOUR technology enables the coloring of recycled materials without the need for bleaching or color removal. This technology preserves the integrity of the fibers and enhances yarn properties, such as strength, reduced pilling, and decreased hairiness. The process uses just 1 liter of water per kilogram of yarn and produces zero wastewater, making it an ideal solution for companies looking to improve their sustainability profile.
 
Re-Matters and COLOURizd will exhibit at the upcoming Textile Exchange Conference in Pasadena, CA, USA, from October 28 to 31, 2024.
 
This year's theme, The Case for Change, will explore how integrating best practices for climate and nature into business operations can build resilience for the future. Both companies will showcase their innovative solutions and discuss their collaborative efforts to promote a more sustainable textile industry.

EDANA welcomes the European Commission’s proposed one-year delay in the implementation of the Deforestation Regulation (EUDR), as outlined in their recent press release. This amendment, while still needing approval from both the Council and the European Parliament, marks a significant step toward ensuring that our industry has the necessary time to effectively comply with the terms of this important regulation, while also continuing to meet their sustainability goals.

While the long-awaited guidelines for implementing the EUDR have now been released alongside the announcement, the EU's information system, designed to track materials and commodities, is still under development. As a key representative of the nonwovens sector, EDANA supports the regulation’s objectives and remains a constructive partner, actively contributing to discussions with policymakers and industry stakeholders.

This additional phase-in time will enable further collaboration with the authorities and our coalition partners, ensuring a smooth transition for all affected industries. EDANA remains committed to promoting sustainable supply chains and responsible practices, while helping ensure compliance across the sector. Our ongoing work aims to foster long-term, sustainable growth for the industry.

As a leading company in workwear, flame retardant and defence and security fabrics, Carrington Textiles announced their commitment to sustainability by pledging exclusive support for the Better Cotton initiative with all our products containing cotton.

The announcement was made on the occasion of World Cotton Day on 7th October 2024, an ideal opportunity to highlight the commitment to developing workwear fabrics that not only offer high levels of quality and performance, but also support the production of responsibly sourced cotton globally.

Better Cotton is an initiative that promotes sustainable cotton farming practices to improve the environment and the livelihoods of farmers while ensuring high-quality cotton for consumers.
In 2019-2020, Better Cotton licensed over 2.4 million farmers from 23 countries across five continents. Together, these farmers produced 23% of the world’s cotton.

Better Cotton is sourced via a chain of custody model called mass balance. This means that Better Cotton is not physically traceable to end products, however, Better Cotton Farmers benefit from the demand for Better Cotton in equivalent volumes to those sourced.

When customers buy any of Carrington Textiles fabrics containing cotton, Better Cotton Credits or BCCUs are generated. These BCCUs can be claimed by a registered company directly on the Better Cotton Platform and used to communicate the responsibly source nature of the fabric’s cotton by using hang tags, labels and other marketing materials.

Neil Davey, Carrington Textiles' Managing Director, announced this commitment to sustainability reflecting the company's dedication to reducing its environmental footprint and providing customers with responsibly sourced materials.

Neil stated, "With 99% of fabrics from our FR, workwear and defence ranges containing cotton, this is a huge step towards our sustainability efforts, all of which we are proud to cover in our latest Sustainability Report. This initiative is expected to have a lasting positive impact on our products and the planet."